oman-escapes-issue-24

Locations
Oman
escapes
Words + Photos: Darryl MacDonald
Wadi Ash Shaab is one
my favorite treks in Oman
and my most frequented.
First, I would like to tell you
what Wadi Shaab is not;
it is not an extreme back
country adventure. It is not
an adventure that requires
copious amounts of planning
and equipment. It is
not even a trek that takes a
full day to undertake. What
Wadi Shaab is; it is a fun
and exciting half-day swim
and hike that requires little
planning and is easily accessed
by anyone that is
a confident swimmer and
comfortable with walking
over some rocky terrain.
How easy, you ask? Last
year, I took my mom there
who is in her mid-60’s and
we kept a slow, comfortable
pace with no troubles at all.
There are many reasons why I enjoy this
wadi so much. Being only 1.5 hours south
of Muscat, it can easily be done in a short
day trip. It’s also a stunning drive along the
coastal road to get there. And if you want to
pack more into the day, there are a few other
wadis nearby. There are also some fantastic,
secluded beaches along the road that make
perfect picnic stops. And, if you really want
to mix it up, there are a few sport climbing
areas on the way as well.
My wife and I took some friends there a few
weeks ago that were visiting from Canada.
We drove from Muscat to the town of Ash
Shaab and parked underneath the bridge
which crosses the wadi. We went during
the Eid holiday, and the entrance to the
wadi was packed with locals, some there for
the day enjoying the large pools accessible
near the entrance and some camped out for
several days bringing their instruments and
elaborate camp setups. One group we saw
even managed to hike in a generator to run
an Xbox and TV in their tent!
At the beginning of the wadi there is a wet
crossing. On busy days, a boat driver will
take you across for 200 baisas per person.
It was busy when we arrived so we decided
to wade across as we came prepared with
proper footwear and dry bags. We hiked
along the far side of the wadi until eventually,
the trail serpentines up into the side of a cliff
wall. From there, the trail winds along overlooking
some large, emerald green pools
where brave locals were jumping. Beyond
this point the number of people we saw in
the canyon dwindled until there were hardly
any near the end. The canyon walls narrowed
here and the trail wandered down from the
cliff back into the bottom of the wadi where
some light scrambling over the rocky terrain
was required. After a short hike, we climbed
up onto the ‘falaj’ system which runs along
the side of the canyon and used this to walk
in the shade under the many date palms
growing in the area. Eventually, we arrived
at a spot where the trail splits into two; on
the right, the trail narrows and heads up over
80m above the water, on a trail barely as
wide as my two feet which heads to a green
area farmed by the locals from Ash Shaab.
The trail to take is the one on the left, which
heads back into the wadi and into the water.
This is the best part of the swim and hike.
Here, we swam across three small pools,
each one about 50m long with small waterfalls
spotting the ends of the last two.
Then we reached the last pool, climbed up
onto a large dry area and left our backpacks
to allow us to explore the entrance to the
cave beyond. It is difficult to imagine how
small the entrance of the cave is without a
photo and unfortunately, I couldn’t fit my
camera through so I have no photos. The
entrance is just large enough to fit a human
head, so you are literally kissing the wall of
the cave as you pull yourself through, submerged
up to your neck in water too deep to
stand in. It’s a little daunting at first, but well
worth it to see what lies beyond. Once inside
there is a large room that is open to the sky
at the far end where a waterfall cascades
down the back wall. There is a rope on the
waterfall that can be used to climb up only to
jump back in from the top or climb up and out to explore
a short way beyond. Behind the waterfall is another small
hole that is completely covered when the water is flowing
more aggressively in the winter months.
The entire swim and hike adventure from beginning to
end can be done in three to four hours depending on
how much time you spend lingering and enjoying the
pools. This short journey can be an easy walk with a few
short swims or can involve cliff diving, caving and waterfalls;
it’s as adventurous as you make it. Just remember
– if you decide to undertake this weekend adventure,
play it safe. Wadis should never be entered if there is any
chance of rain; always check the water depth before you
jump and if you’re uncomfortable, don’t be afraid to turn
back. As we like to say in Canada, get out there, have fun
and “keep your stick on the ice.”
Darryl MacDonald
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