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LOCATIONS<br />

OMAN<br />

escapes<br />

Words + Photos: Darryl MacDonald<br />

When my wife and I first moved<br />

from Canada and started exploring<br />

Oman, we instantly fell in love with<br />

the country and its people. When<br />

we spoke to our friends and family<br />

back home, we were overly enthusiastic<br />

about how wonderful it was<br />

and how everyone should come and<br />

visit.<br />

Since it is a 25-hour flight from Canada to<br />

Oman and not a popular vacation destination<br />

for Canadians, we thought we might be<br />

lucky if we had anybody come to visit. As<br />

it turns out, my wife and I are in the wrong<br />

business. We should be promoting parties or<br />

concerts or some such thing because what<br />

started as a trickle of visitors has turned into<br />

a flood. In less than three years, we have had<br />

eight different sets of Canadian visitors. During<br />

February and March of this year alone,<br />

my wife and I have four, yes, that’s four different<br />

sets of visitors coming from Canada.<br />

My wife has resorted to putting hotel soaps<br />

and shampoos in the guest bathroom and<br />

bath robes in the guest bedroom. At some<br />

point we may need to put a sign over the<br />

door and start charging for room and board!<br />

You might ask, “Where am I going with<br />

this?” Well, having such a wide variety and<br />

large quantity of guests, a host requires an<br />

array of activities to keep them entertained.<br />

My wife has become an expert tour planner<br />

and I have become an expert at executing<br />

those plans. She has created a broad range<br />

of itineraries to suit the full range of friends<br />

and family, from couch potato to extreme<br />

adventurer. Among all of those itineraries,<br />

there are a few common trips that work for<br />

the full range of visitors and that we are<br />

happy to repeat over and over again. Wadi<br />

Bani Khalid is such a place. My wife has enthusiastically<br />

declared this her favourite wadi<br />

in the entire sultanate and it consistently<br />

receives rave reviews from our visitors.<br />

The wadi, located just over 200km south<br />

of Muscat, is a little long for a day-trip but<br />

being close to the Wahiba Sands, it can be<br />

easily combined with an overnight desert<br />

adventure. There are several ways to explore<br />

the canyon. For those that want the full<br />

adventure, the best way is to drop a vehicle<br />

off in the town of Sayq, then proceed 40<br />

minutes north to the town of Bidah. Hiking<br />

through the wadi from Bidah to Sayq takes<br />

approximately five hours, depending on<br />

your fitness level. The wadi slopes gently<br />

downwards as you pass waterfall after waterfall<br />

after waterfall (seriously, I’ve never seen<br />

so many waterfalls) scrambling down rocks<br />

and swimming through massive pools. It’s<br />

certainly one of the most breathtaking wadis<br />

in Oman as you swim, hike and scramble<br />

through the canyon. One waterfall, near the<br />

beginning of the hike, reaches 15m with<br />

a massive emerald green pool below. You<br />

could happily spend the day there swimming<br />

and lounging near the edge of the pool.<br />

Beyond this point, it is unlikely that you will<br />

encounter other tourists or locals until you<br />

near the next town. The hike is not very technical,<br />

but is physically strenuous and involves<br />

sections where swimming is the only option<br />

if you wish to continue.<br />

Closer to Sayq, the wadi widens creating<br />

some pools large enough to be labeled as<br />

small ponds. On the right hand side is the falaj<br />

system which can be followed like a path<br />

and continues all the way to the village. Here<br />

the hike takes on a completely different feel<br />

as you pass through the shade of a meticulously<br />

manicured orchard filled with date<br />

palms, banana trees and mangos all terraced<br />

along the falaj system passing over the emerald<br />

green pools of the wadi below.<br />

So depending on the time frame and what<br />

type of guest we are catering to, we may<br />

choose to do the entire wadi (complete with<br />

vehicles to shuttle), although most of the<br />

time we park at either Bidah or Sayq and<br />

hike in for a few hours then return back the<br />

way we came. This way you can take your<br />

time to stop and enjoy some of the larger<br />

pools, which are a nice reprieve from the<br />

heat.<br />

If you want an easier day, with no hiking,<br />

there are a few massive pools of water near<br />

Miqil just before Bidah. These are complete<br />

with paved walking paths, a restaurant and<br />

shaded seating areas but can be busy on<br />

the weekends. Also in Miqil there is a small<br />

cave that can be explored with a waterproof<br />

torch if you’re willing to get dirty. Some of<br />

the passages are a pretty tight squeeze,<br />

certainly not for the claustrophobic among<br />

you. As usual, if you decide to undertake this<br />

weekend adventure, be sure to play it safe.<br />

Bring with you all necessary supplies such as<br />

sunscreen, extra water, waterproof torch and<br />

snacks. More information on this area can<br />

be found in the Oman off-road books so you<br />

can plan your trip accordingly.<br />

As we like to say in Canada, get out there,<br />

have fun and “keep your stick on the ice.”<br />

Darryl MacDonald<br />

52 OUTDOORUAE

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