"Who are you to tell us our history?" Kultur och religion i ... - Anpere
"Who are you to tell us our history?" Kultur och religion i ... - Anpere
"Who are you to tell us our history?" Kultur och religion i ... - Anpere
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followed them as servants: the one bearing a calabash of raw fish , and a calabash of poe [poi],<br />
and the other a dish of baked dog, for the refreshment of the <strong>you</strong>r fav<strong>our</strong>ites. 429<br />
Maka‘āinana hade inledningsvis inte tillgång till textilier <strong>och</strong> kläder i samma utsträckning<br />
som ali‘i utan kunde oftast bara byta till sig ett enstaka plagg eller en detalj, som t.ex. ett<br />
paraply eller ett par handskar. Dessa bars med s<strong>to</strong>lthet <strong>och</strong> gärna som ackompanjemang till<br />
den traditionella klädseln. Missionären Laura Fish Judd berättar:<br />
We were followed all the way from the landing by a crowd of natives, men and women, and<br />
children, dressed and undressed. Many of them wore a sheet of native cloth, tied on one<br />
shoulder, not unlike the Roman <strong>to</strong>ga; one had a shirt min<strong>us</strong> pantaloons, another had a pair<br />
of pantaloons min<strong>us</strong> a shirt; while a large number were destitute of either. One man looked<br />
very grand with an umbrella and shoes, the only foreign articles he could command. The<br />
women were clad in native costume, the pau which consist of folds of native cloth about the<br />
hips, leaving the shoulders and waist quite exposed; a small number donned in addition a<br />
very feminine garment made of unbleached cot<strong>to</strong>n, drawn close around the neck, which<br />
was quite becoming. Their hair was uncombed and their faces unwashed, but all of them<br />
were good natured. Our appearance furnished them much am<strong>us</strong>ement; they laughed and<br />
jabbered, ran on in advance, and turned back <strong>to</strong> peer in<strong>to</strong> <strong>our</strong> faces. I laughed and cried <strong>to</strong>o,<br />
and hid my face for very shame. 430<br />
I takt med att produktionen ökade <strong>och</strong> hawaiianerna lärde sig att sy hade fler möjlighet att<br />
få tillgång till kläder <strong>och</strong> andra tillbehör. Men det gick inte att komma ifrån att användandet<br />
av klädesplaggen inte helt var i linje med vad missionärerna önskade <strong>och</strong> krävde.<br />
Den välkände författ<strong>are</strong>n Mark Twain, som var en flitig besök<strong>are</strong>, berättar:<br />
The missionaries provided them with long, loose, calico robes, and that ended the difficulty<br />
– for the women would troop through the <strong>to</strong>wn, stark naked, with their robes folded under<br />
their arms, match <strong>to</strong> the missionary ho<strong>us</strong>es and then proceed <strong>to</strong> dress! The natives soon<br />
manifested a strong proclivity for clothing, but it was shortly app<strong>are</strong>nt that they only<br />
wanted it for grandeur. The missionaries imported a quantity of hats, bonnets, and other<br />
male and female wearing app<strong>are</strong>l, instituted a general distribution, and begged the people<br />
not <strong>to</strong> come <strong>to</strong> church naked, next Sunday, as <strong>us</strong>ual. And they did not, but the national<br />
spirit and unselfishness led them <strong>to</strong> divide up with neighbors who were not at the<br />
distribution, and next Sabbath the poor preachers could hardly keep countenance before<br />
the vast congregation. In the midst of the reading of a hymn, a brown, stately dame would<br />
sweep up the aisle with a world of airs, with nothing in the world on but a s<strong>to</strong>vepipe hat<br />
and a pair of cheap gloves. 431<br />
Missionärskvinnornas klänningar blev som sagt föremål för beundran <strong>och</strong> efterfrågades<br />
direkt av kvinnor av ali‘i-rang. Den egentliga formen på dessa klänningar var relativt snäv<br />
<strong>och</strong> med tanke på att de flesta kvinnliga ali‘i var relativt kraftiga <strong>och</strong> klimatet varmt<br />
modifierades formen. Initiativtag<strong>are</strong> till förändringen var missionärskvinnorna själva som<br />
också låg bakom de första pro<strong>to</strong>typerna av detta plagg som kom att kallas lole ho‘oluelue eller<br />
sen<strong>are</strong> benämning, holokū, det vill säga en hellång kjol som var fäst i ett ok med hög hals<br />
<strong>och</strong> långa, snäva ärmar. 432 Linda B. Arthur, som gjort en omfattande studie om holokū,<br />
429 Stewart 1828: 117ff.<br />
430 Laura Fish Judd, den 31 mars 1828: i Judd 1880/1928: 4f.<br />
431 I Judd 1961/1974: 45f.<br />
432 Arthur 1997: 132 <strong>och</strong> 137. Termen holokū användes först 1865. Arthur skriver att namnet,<br />
enligt vissa forsk<strong>are</strong>, uppkom i samband med att symaskiner introducerades <strong>och</strong> då sömmerskorna<br />
sydde sa de ”holo” som betyder spring, kör då de snurrade på hjulet <strong>och</strong> fick maskinen<br />
att gå <strong>och</strong> ”ku”, s<strong>to</strong>pp, då de önskade stanna.<br />
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