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C h a p t e r 2 8 : S u p p o r t s f o r W i r e s a n d V e r t i c a l s 649<br />

Backfill<br />

Concrete<br />

plug<br />

H<br />

Ground level<br />

D<br />

its entire length (especially the underground portion) with a rust-Âinhibiting paint such<br />

as Rustoleum. If your intention is to directly mount the vertical to the metal fence post,<br />

make sure the pipe you choose is a smaller outside diameter than the maximum mast<br />

size accommodated by the base bracket and U-Âbolts of the antenna you’re putting up.<br />

(The maximum for the AV-Â14-ÂAVQ is 1 5 ⁄8 in, for example.) Otherwise, fabricating a suitable<br />

adapter can turn out to be the most time-Âconsuming part of the entire project! On<br />

the other hand, if the fence post is supporting an intermediate mast of some height, the<br />

larger diameters are more appropriate.<br />

The beauty of the fence post as an antenna support is that it is relatively easy to install,<br />

and supplies are obtained easily from hardware stores. The post is mounted in a<br />

concrete plug set at depth D (in Fig. 28.20) in the ground. To avoid snapped ropes or<br />

other damage from frost heaves, D should be a function of local climate and local building<br />

codes and determined by the 100-Âyear depth of the frost line in your area, a figure<br />

familiar to local contractors and codes enforcement officials. Keep in mind, however, that<br />

shallower depths may be legal for fence posts, but installation of a vertical antenna (or<br />

mast) on top of the fence post may change the mechanical situation considerably.<br />

Dig the hole with a post-Âhole digger or an<br />

earth-Âauger-Âbit tool. The latter often can be rented<br />

in gasoline engine, electric, or manual versions<br />

from tool rental stores.<br />

Once the hole is dug, place about 4 in (or local<br />

requirement) of clean gravel (available in bags<br />

from hardware stores) at the bottom of the hole.<br />

Insert the post and plumb it (i.e., make it vertical in<br />

the hole) by adjusting a single set of guy ropes. Fill<br />

with your favorite brand of ready-Âmix concrete to<br />

a level just below the average surface around the<br />

hole. Cover with straw or burlap and keep the top<br />

of the concrete moist for a few days. Do not subject<br />

the post to side loads for at least four days or<br />

whatever interval the concrete manufacturer recommends.<br />

Concrete needs time to cure; its strength<br />

increases exponentially, reaching 99 percent of its<br />

ultimate capability in 28 days, but a 7-Âday hiatus<br />

should be adequate before completing the antenna<br />

installation. Once the concrete has cured, top it off<br />

with soil and sod or garden chips.<br />

Regardless of the height of its base, never attach<br />

the antenna base bracket to the mast or other<br />

support with just a single mounting point or U-Â<br />

bolt. Always use at least two-Âpoint mounting to<br />

prevent the antenna from pivoting and shearing<br />

off the mounting hardware.<br />

Figure 28.21 shows how to mount a 2 × 4 mast<br />

to a fence post. Standard lengths of 2-Â × 4-Âin lum-<br />

Gravel<br />

Figure 28.20 Fence post mounting.

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