Practical_Antenna_Handbook_0071639586
C h a p t e r 2 8 : S u p p o r t s f o r W i r e s a n d V e r t i c a l s 639 Figure 28.12 Mounting mast schemes. • For those with strong throwing arms whose trees aren’t very tall, a baseball with a 3 ⁄16-Âin hole drilled through its center may do the trick. Simply tie one end of some light nylon twine through the center and a half-Âcircumference of the ball. Lay out the twine on clear ground in front of you. (Clearly, this doesn’t work very well in the middle of the woods!) • Many techniques start with a projectile trailing fish line behind it as it is launched, since fish line is lighter than commonly available twine. The fish line should be wound on a spinning or fixed spool fishing reel. Attach the reel (with duct tape) near one end of a 2-Â or 3-Âft length of wooden dowel, and push the other end into the earth at about a 45-Âdegree angle so it is aimed up high in the targeted tree. There is a tradeoff between the strength of the fish line and how much total weight the projectile can haul up in the air behind it; experiment with different line weights in conjunction with your chosen reel and projectile. Once the fish line is up and over the target tree, attach nylon twine to the far end and reel the fish line back in. Then attach the halyard or an intermediate line to the end of the nylon twine that has been pulled through the tree top. (An assistant to spool out the twine is an extremely helpful addition to this part of the project!)
640 p a r t V I I I : M e c h a n i c a l C o n s t r u c t i o n a n d I n s t a l l a t i o n T e c h n i q u e s • One manufacturer sells a slingshot in the amateur radio market. The projectile is typically a metal ball with a tab for tying fish line to, or a large metal hex nut from the user’s parts bin after the metal ball has become lost. Many people have had success with a slingshot, but the author has found its aiming accuracy to be less than that of other approaches, and the elastic sling can deteriorate over time. • For years the author favored a small bow and arrow given to him by a helpful neighbor. Three modifications must be made to conventional arrows: 44 Remove the pointed tips (to avoid injury to bystanders, and to avoid having the target tree look like a porcupine). 44 Add mass (weight) to the nose of the arrow; a half-Âdozen framing nails (with large heads aimed forward) can be held in place around the circumference of the arrow at its head long enough to be taped with electrical or duct tape. 44 Drill a small hole, large enough to thread fish line through, about an inch or so back from the tail of the arrow. Used in conjunction with the spinning reel on a dowel stuck in the ground, this bow-Âand-Âarrow outfit allowed the author to put fish line in the tops of trees as tall as 60 ft. • For greater heights and better accuracy, borrow or purchase a bowfishing rig. New sets are expensive, but archery shops often have trade-Âins available at a very modest price. The most important element is the compound bow with a tapped hole and matching metal post for direct mounting of a spinning reel. Purchase five or six arrows with removeable points and prepare them as described here. With this setup, the author has sent appropriately sized fish line over the tops of 100-Âft trees! • To get the fish line to drop straight down the back side of the targeted tree (instead of continuing on beyond the tree some distance), halt the flight of the arrow just after it passes the top of the tree with a slight turn on the handle of the fishing reel. With practice, you can get the hang of this. • Never try to retrieve the arrow by reeling it back in, up through the tree. Instead, always untie or cut the fish line at the arrow, rewind the empty fish line, and retie the arrow onto it back at your launch site. • Wait for a calm day for all of these techniques. • For the ne plus ultra, consider a potato launcher with tennis balls. Search the Internet for examples of how enterprising amateurs and others have modified these powerhouses to lay lines over the tops of the very tallest trees. • If all else fails, pay a tree-Âclimbing professional to place a “permanent” halyard mount near the top of your chosen trees. Caution Always make sure the area around you and well beyond the targeted tree are clear of humans and animals before launching any projectiles. Even blunt-Âtipped arrows or hex nuts can cause serious injury!
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C h a p t e r 2 8 : S u p p o r t s f o r W i r e s a n d V e r t i c a l s 639<br />
Figure 28.12 Mounting mast schemes.<br />
• For those with strong throwing arms whose trees aren’t very tall, a baseball<br />
with a 3 ⁄16-Âin hole drilled through its center may do the trick. Simply tie one end<br />
of some light nylon twine through the center and a half-Âcircumference of the<br />
ball. Lay out the twine on clear ground in front of you. (Clearly, this doesn’t<br />
work very well in the middle of the woods!)<br />
• Many techniques start with a projectile trailing fish line behind it as it is<br />
launched, since fish line is lighter than commonly available twine. The fish line<br />
should be wound on a spinning or fixed spool fishing reel. Attach the reel (with<br />
duct tape) near one end of a 2-Â or 3-Âft length of wooden dowel, and push the<br />
other end into the earth at about a 45-Âdegree angle so it is aimed up high in the<br />
targeted tree. There is a tradeoff between the strength of the fish line and how<br />
much total weight the projectile can haul up in the air behind it; experiment<br />
with different line weights in conjunction with your chosen reel and projectile.<br />
Once the fish line is up and over the target tree, attach nylon twine to the far end<br />
and reel the fish line back in. Then attach the halyard or an intermediate line to<br />
the end of the nylon twine that has been pulled through the tree top. (An<br />
assistant to spool out the twine is an extremely helpful addition to this part of<br />
the project!)