Practical_Antenna_Handbook_0071639586

24.07.2018 Views

518 P a r t V I : A n t e n n a s f o r O t h e r F r e q u e n c i e s RDF at VHF and UHF It should be apparent from the preceding paragraphs that obtaining an easily portable antenna with a unidirectional pattern at HF requires some mechanical and electronic complexities. At VHF and above, such patterns are far easier to attain. Even a four-Â element 6-m Yagi is reasonably easy to manipulate by hand, and the task gets simpler as one goes higher in frequency. At even higher frequencies, the antenna of choice is the parabolic reflector. Perhaps a more difficult task at VHF and above is finding a way to get signal strength information from the receiver being used. In today’s marketplace, very few VHF/UHF FM mobile rigs include any visual metering, even when the AM aircraft band is present. A rare rig may have a dc voltage proportional to received signal level available on the rear panel, but the most likely transceivers to have S-meters (or their modern equivalent, the LED “bar” meters) are the relatively expensive “multimode” rigs intended primarily for base station use. Fox Hunting An activity popular with ham radio operators for many decades is fox hunting. A fiendishly clever ham (the “fox”) would hide with a mobile or portable transmitter (usually on either 10 or 75 m). The “hunters” would then RDF the fox’s brief transmissions and try to locate the transmitter. If you were first to locate the antenna, you won—and got to be the fox the following month! Today, fox hunting is as likely to be held on VHF and UHF as on the lower frequencies. Because the propagation modes can be so different around a geographic region, both types provide many lessons. Tracking Down Electrical Noise A practical use for fox hunting skills is tracking down sources of electrical noise that can mask weak signals. Most electrical noise comes from close by: every electrical appliance that plugs into the wall (and even a few that don’t!), every wall adapter, every computer or fax machine or wireless modem, every power line and power pole, every high-efficiency heating or cooling system, every on-demand hot water heater, every electric blanket, every touch lamp, and every streetlight or yard light is a suspect until proven “innocent”. In most cases, a good technique is to start your “fox hunting” activities on the frequencies where you first noticed the noise and then gradually move upward in frequency as you get closer to the source. There are at least three reasons for that: • Noise energy in the VHF and UHF ranges is not likely to travel via as many ambiguous propagation paths that can lead to contradictory results. • Noise energy in the VHF and UHF ranges from most unintentional radiators is much weaker than at the lower frequencies; if you can hear it at all at VHF and UHF, you’re probably very close to the source. • It’s far, far easier to hold and rotate a high-gain, sharp beam VHF or UHF antenna by hand than it is to get the same directivity on HF!

C h a p t e r 2 3 : R a d i o D i r e c t i o n - F i n d i n g ( R D F ) A n t e n n a s 519 Here are some additional hints for locating that stubborn noise that’s wiping out your weak-signal reception on the HF bands: • Power line and power pole noises are particularly difficult because the noise can propagate for miles along the lines and go through many maxima and minimum before tapering off. Don’t let one of those maxima cause you to jump to conclusions. • Do your initial “hunting” quickly and easily while mobile by tuning the AM broadcast radio in your car to an unused frequency near the top of the broadcast band (somewhere in the 1600- to 1700-kHz range). The author found an offending municipal streetlight near his home in this manner. • Keep your portable receiver in AM mode if at all possible. When it’s time to switch to VHF antennas, amateur 2-m FM handhelds or mobile rigs that include coverage of the AM aircraft band between 108 and 130 MHz are especially useful for zeroing in on a specific power pole or building. • Keep a log of dates, times, day/night status, and weather conditions each time you observe the noise. Some noises are the result of arcing when insulating surfaces get wet; others are the exact opposite. Some noises result from outdoor lighting powered by day/night sensors, and so on. • To determine if the noise source is in your own home, turn off your house power at the main breaker box at a time when the noise is evident in your receiver. Continue to run your equipment on a 12-V car battery or an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). However, don’t forget that UPSs and other battery-operated devices may continue to run for hours on their own and are fully capable of creating RFI long after primary power has been removed. • Be careful, courteous, and circumspect when checking out noises potentially emanating from a neighbor’s house; otherwise you may end up in front of the local judge, charged with being a “peeping Tom”! Caution Never, under any circumstances, “body-slam” a power pole or hit it with a sledgehammer or your vehicle’s bumper to see if the offending noise is coming from it! Besides being highly illegal, this could be sure death if the trouble is, in fact, with any of the equipment on the pole. If you have reason to suspect a specific section of utility wiring, go back home and report your concern directly to your utility. The usual lack of an S-meter on mobile or portable VHF/UHF receivers is as much a problem for tracking down noise sources as it is for RDFing on distant stations. However, one possible work-around while listening to the AM aircraft band— if the background noise environment is favorable—is to employ the audio noise output of the speaker in a mobile VHF/UHF rig in conjunction with an audio signal level monitor app for a smart phone. Examples of apps currently available for the Apple iPhone include Sound Level (and Sound Level Pro). As with the S-meter approach, two operators are typically required—one to maneuver the antenna and another to watch the meter and call out “Warmer!” or “Colder!” as the signal level goes up or down.

518 P a r t V I : A n t e n n a s f o r O t h e r F r e q u e n c i e s<br />

RDF at VHF and UHF<br />

It should be apparent from the preceding paragraphs that obtaining an easily portable<br />

antenna with a unidirectional pattern at HF requires some mechanical and electronic<br />

complexities. At VHF and above, such patterns are far easier to attain. Even a four-Â<br />

element 6-m Yagi is reasonably easy to manipulate by hand, and the task gets simpler<br />

as one goes higher in frequency. At even higher frequencies, the antenna of choice is the<br />

parabolic reflector.<br />

Perhaps a more difficult task at VHF and above is finding a way to get signal<br />

strength information from the receiver being used. In today’s marketplace, very few<br />

VHF/UHF FM mobile rigs include any visual metering, even when the AM aircraft<br />

band is present. A rare rig may have a dc voltage proportional to received signal level<br />

available on the rear panel, but the most likely transceivers to have S-meters (or their<br />

modern equivalent, the LED “bar” meters) are the relatively expensive “multimode”<br />

rigs intended primarily for base station use.<br />

Fox Hunting<br />

An activity popular with ham radio operators for many decades is fox hunting. A fiendishly<br />

clever ham (the “fox”) would hide with a mobile or portable transmitter (usually<br />

on either 10 or 75 m). The “hunters” would then RDF the fox’s brief transmissions and<br />

try to locate the transmitter. If you were first to locate the antenna, you won—and got<br />

to be the fox the following month!<br />

Today, fox hunting is as likely to be held on VHF and UHF as on the lower frequencies.<br />

Because the propagation modes can be so different around a geographic region,<br />

both types provide many lessons.<br />

Tracking Down Electrical Noise<br />

A practical use for fox hunting skills is tracking down sources of electrical noise that<br />

can mask weak signals. Most electrical noise comes from close by: every electrical appliance<br />

that plugs into the wall (and even a few that don’t!), every wall adapter, every<br />

computer or fax machine or wireless modem, every power line and power pole,<br />

every high-efficiency heating or cooling system, every on-demand hot water heater,<br />

every electric blanket, every touch lamp, and every streetlight or yard light is a suspect<br />

until proven “innocent”. In most cases, a good technique is to start your “fox<br />

hunting” activities on the frequencies where you first noticed the noise and then<br />

gradually move upward in frequency as you get closer to the source. There are at least<br />

three reasons for that:<br />

• Noise energy in the VHF and UHF ranges is not likely to travel via as many<br />

ambiguous propagation paths that can lead to contradictory results.<br />

• Noise energy in the VHF and UHF ranges from most unintentional radiators is<br />

much weaker than at the lower frequencies; if you can hear it at all at VHF and<br />

UHF, you’re probably very close to the source.<br />

• It’s far, far easier to hold and rotate a high-gain, sharp beam VHF or UHF<br />

antenna by hand than it is to get the same directivity on HF!

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