Practical_Antenna_Handbook_0071639586

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406 p a r t V I : a n t e n n a s f o r O t h e r F r e q u e n c i e s which about a half-wavelength of insulated wire is wound over an insulating form (such as a length of PVC pipe or a wooden dowel); the turns of the coil are spread out over the entire length of the insulated support. I 2 R losses in the winding are somewhat higher than in a straight vertical member because the conducting element is not only longer but often has a smaller cross-sectional area. Linear loading (Fig. 18.1E) is an arrangement whereby a section of the antenna is folded back on itself like a stub. Antennas of this sort have been successfully built from the same type of aluminum tubing as regular verticals. For 160-m operation, a length of 60 ft for the radiator represents 41 degrees, while a normal l/4 vertical corresponds to 90 degrees. The difference between 90 degrees and 41 degrees of electrical length is made up by the “hairpin” structure at the base. A potential disadvantage of the linear loading approach is the requirement for an additional insulator somewhere along the monopole’s physical support structure if the antenna is supported from the bottom (as a tower or rigid mast might be), rather than suspended from above (as a wire would be). The relative cost and mechanical complexity of continuously loaded and linearly loaded verticals for 160 m generally render them inferior to other approaches—especially the top hat of Fig. 18.1C—and we shall not consider them further in this chapter. Loading the Tower Many amateur radio installations include one or more rotatable Yagi antennas on top of an appropriate support structure, such as a ground-mounted guyed triangular lattice tower. By far the preponderance of amateur tower heights is in the 40- to 90-ft range— often considered too short to be an efficient vertical monopole radiator on 160 m. But with proper attention to installation details and a modest set of radials, most such tower and antenna combinations can become excellent transmitting and receiving antennas for 160 m. There are two critical components to making a “short” tower an efficient radiator on 160 (or 80) m: • The apparent electrical length must be increased to approximately l/4 or slightly greater. This brings the natural high-current part of the antenna out into the open so as to increase the I × h (or I × l) product, and coincidentally raises the radiation resistance, thus beneficially altering the resistive divider formed by the radiation resistance and ground losses. • A low-loss ground return path for the RF fields surrounding the vertical must be provided. In the absence of saltwater at the base of the tower, 20 to 60 copper radial wires—each approximately as long as the tower is tall—should be connected (through an appropriate anticorrosion metal) to the grounded side of the transmission line or base-mounted ATU. As implied at the beginning of this topic, an excellent way to turn a short grounded tower into an efficient 160-m antenna is to utilize one or more HF Yagi antennas at the top to provide top loading, but there are at least two other ways to do the same thing: • If the tower is guyed, allow the top set of guy wires to extend out and down from the top of the tower by a calculated amount before inserting a set of insulators.

C h a p t e r 1 8 : a n t e n n a s f o r 1 6 0 M e t e r s 407 • Add three or four dedicated top hat wires equally spaced around the horizon at or near the top of the tower, below any rotatable antennas, and extend them out as close to horizontal as possible. Here are some drawbacks, or compromises, associated with some or all of these approaches: • Using a portion of each guy wire in the top set of guys is inefficient (compared to the horizontal boom and elements of a Yagi) because the top guy wires usually follow a fairly steep slope back down alongside the tower itself. • Use of the top set of guys as a top hat means you should select an appropriate length for the uninsulated sections of guy wire attached to the top of the tower prior to installing the tower—a task probably best done with the help of an antenna modeling program, such as those discussed in Chap. 25. • Horizontal or sloped lengths of wire at the top of the tower—whether constructed from the top set of guy wires or entirely separate wires—may detune any rotatable antenna(s) on the mast if there is but a few feet of separation between the lowest rotating antenna and the wire attachment level. • In most installations it will not be possible to find supporting termination points for the far ends of any added top hat wires that allow any less of a slope than that encountered when using the guy wires themselves. Having said that, however, the advantage of using additional wires is that these wires can be added, removed, shortened, or lengthened at any time, if necessary. Since they are not guy wires, the only mechanical requirement on them is that they be strong enough to support their own weight plus the weight of any rope or twine used to tie them off and hold them away from the tower. When used with a tower surrounded by tall trees, it may be possible to string the top hat wires almost horizontally by using halyards from high in the trees. • As a practical matter, the use of Yagis for top loading is limited to HF beams or very long boom VHF/UHF beams, since smaller beams will most likely not provide adequate capacitive loading. Further, since Yagi dimensions are “fixed” (with the exception of the SteppIR beams), the equivalent electrical length of your tower plus beams is not totally within your control. • Many Yagi beams do not have their elements directly connected to their booms; in such cases, only the boom fully contributes to the top loading effect. • Insulators and/or matching networks for some Yagi beams may not tolerate high voltages across their terminals at frequencies far from their intended band(s) of operation. As a first approximation to the length of top hat wires or uninsulated guy wire segments at the top of the tower, subtract the tower height from 140 ft. (If you have a choice, err on the side of longer total length, rather than shorter.) If you are relying on one or more Yagis at the top of the tower, get the turning radius of the lowest beam from the manufacturer’s specifications or calculate an equivalent top hat radius r from 2 2 r = b + e (18.1) ( )

406 p a r t V I : a n t e n n a s f o r O t h e r F r e q u e n c i e s<br />

which about a half-wavelength of insulated wire is wound over an insulating form<br />

(such as a length of PVC pipe or a wooden dowel); the turns of the coil are spread out<br />

over the entire length of the insulated support. I 2 R losses in the winding are somewhat<br />

higher than in a straight vertical member because the conducting element is not only<br />

longer but often has a smaller cross-sectional area.<br />

Linear loading (Fig. 18.1E) is an arrangement whereby a section of the antenna is<br />

folded back on itself like a stub. <strong>Antenna</strong>s of this sort have been successfully built<br />

from the same type of aluminum tubing as regular verticals. For 160-m operation, a<br />

length of 60 ft for the radiator represents 41 degrees, while a normal l/4 vertical corresponds<br />

to 90 degrees. The difference between 90 degrees and 41 degrees of electrical<br />

length is made up by the “hairpin” structure at the base. A potential disadvantage of<br />

the linear loading approach is the requirement for an additional insulator somewhere<br />

along the monopole’s physical support structure if the antenna is supported from the<br />

bottom (as a tower or rigid mast might be), rather than suspended from above (as a<br />

wire would be).<br />

The relative cost and mechanical complexity of continuously loaded and linearly<br />

loaded verticals for 160 m generally render them inferior to other approaches—especially<br />

the top hat of Fig. 18.1C—and we shall not consider them further in this chapter.<br />

Loading the Tower<br />

Many amateur radio installations include one or more rotatable Yagi antennas on top of<br />

an appropriate support structure, such as a ground-mounted guyed triangular lattice<br />

tower. By far the preponderance of amateur tower heights is in the 40- to 90-ft range—<br />

often considered too short to be an efficient vertical monopole radiator on 160 m. But<br />

with proper attention to installation details and a modest set of radials, most such tower<br />

and antenna combinations can become excellent transmitting and receiving antennas<br />

for 160 m.<br />

There are two critical components to making a “short” tower an efficient radiator on<br />

160 (or 80) m:<br />

• The apparent electrical length must be increased to approximately l/4 or<br />

slightly greater. This brings the natural high-current part of the antenna out into<br />

the open so as to increase the I × h (or I × l) product, and coincidentally raises<br />

the radiation resistance, thus beneficially altering the resistive divider formed<br />

by the radiation resistance and ground losses.<br />

• A low-loss ground return path for the RF fields surrounding the vertical must<br />

be provided. In the absence of saltwater at the base of the tower, 20 to 60 copper<br />

radial wires—each approximately as long as the tower is tall—should be<br />

connected (through an appropriate anticorrosion metal) to the grounded side of<br />

the transmission line or base-mounted ATU.<br />

As implied at the beginning of this topic, an excellent way to turn a short grounded<br />

tower into an efficient 160-m antenna is to utilize one or more HF Yagi antennas at the<br />

top to provide top loading, but there are at least two other ways to do the same thing:<br />

• If the tower is guyed, allow the top set of guy wires to extend out and down<br />

from the top of the tower by a calculated amount before inserting a set of<br />

insulators.

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