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Practical_Antenna_Handbook_0071639586

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382 P a r t V : H i g h - F r e q u e n c y A n t e n n a s f o r S p e c i a l i z e d U s e s<br />

tor to get out of the vehicle in order to do a good job of retuning. In recent years more<br />

and more mobile operators have switched to using a motor-driven variable inductor for<br />

the loading coil. Today several manufacturers (High Sierra and Tarheel are two wellknown<br />

and highly respected suppliers) offer both base-loaded and center-loaded coils<br />

and entire antenna assemblies that are either motor-driven or relay-selectable to permit<br />

frequency changing from inside the vehicle. Some models even feature a remote-control<br />

tilt to allow driving into the garage!<br />

Arguably the best enhancement that one can make to any short HF whip is a capacitive<br />

top hat. Usually consisting of a half-dozen or more radial spokes emanating from<br />

the top of the stinger to a circumferential support wire or tube, a top hat increases the<br />

electrical length of the entire assembly, thus bringing more of the natural high-current<br />

portion of the monopole out of the feedline and into the vertical element. Benefits include<br />

overall antenna efficiency improvements and increased VSWR bandwidth. Top<br />

hats for 21 MHz and below should be as large as you can make them; it’s unlikely you’ll<br />

exceed the dimensions at which they become an electrical detriment! Mobile HF antennas<br />

from some manufacturers have top hats with a 3- or 4-ft diameter; in many designs,<br />

guying of the upper half of the antenna is required.<br />

Tuning HF Mobile <strong>Antenna</strong>s<br />

Tuning a typical mobile HF antenna is not particularly difficult, since there’s very little<br />

you can adjust. Here’s a sequence that works for center-loaded verticals with fixedinductance<br />

loading coils (resonators):<br />

• Initially set the whip or stinger to the manufacturer’s recommended length. If<br />

you have no guidelines—or your mobile antenna is totally homebrew— set the<br />

total length to the maximum you can within the practical constraints (overpasses,<br />

utility lines, etc.) mentioned earlier.<br />

• If your loading coils are not adjustable, attempt to find a length for the stinger<br />

(the portion of the whip above the loading coil) that produces a low VSWR back<br />

at the transceiver in the lower portion of your desired range of operating frequencies<br />

on a given band. While transmitting briefly on spot frequencies (no<br />

further apart than 25 kHz on 80 and 40) throughout the appropriate band, determine<br />

the frequency of minimum VSWR, if possible. (Use a VSWR meter at<br />

either end of the coaxial cable between the mobile rig and the antenna. Alternatively,<br />

it is perfectly fine to use the VSWR meter built into many of today’s<br />

mobile rigs. But do not have an antenna tuner in the line at this stage of the<br />

process.) If there is not an obvious minimum VSWR somewhere in the desired<br />

range of operating frequencies, try a different stinger length. If a minimum<br />

VSWR can be found and it’s on the high side of your chosen center frequency,<br />

lengthen the stinger slightly and remeasure. If the minimum VSWR is on the<br />

low side of your desired center frequency, shorten the stinger and remeasure.<br />

• Once you have obtained the lowest VSWR you can by adjusting the length of<br />

the stinger, reintroduce any matching networks, starting with any at the base of<br />

the vertical. As a last resort, use the antenna tuner in your mobile rig to minimize<br />

the VSWR. Presumably this will coincide with maximum RF out of the<br />

vertical if you have been monitoring the field strength meter mentioned earlier.<br />

In short, about all you can do is attempt to match the antenna to the feedline

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