Practical_Antenna_Handbook_0071639586

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364 P a r t V : H i g h - F r e q u e n c y A n t e n n a s f o r S p e c i a l i z e d U s e s there’s nothing magic about any of those “usually” descriptions. So if your HF antenna needs to be hidden, here are some ideas to help make an untenable situation at least tolerable: • Hang your dipole from the rafters or carrying beam in the attic of your residence. That’s the highest place, and it’s out of the way of family members and landlords. • Feed your wire at one end instead of in the middle, if need be. Turn it into an end-fed Zepp or just a simple longwire. Be aware that you will need a good ground system attached to your transmitter for maximum effectiveness of the longwire. • Bend the ends if you run out of attic space. Let them dangle, or let them come down the rafters at an angle. See Fig. 15.1. • Use traps to get multiple bands out of your wire—especially if you’re using coaxial cable as your feedline. • If you’ve never used one before, add a full-range antenna tuning unit (ATU) so you can load up your attic wire on virtually any frequency you want. One possible solution House A B C D Figure 15.1 Installing dipole in attic.

C h a p t e r 1 5 : H i d d e n a n d L i m i t e d - S p a c e A n t e n n a s 365 As we have mentioned many times, the length of a l/2 dipole is given approximately by L ft 468 = (15.1) F If you do some quick calculations you will find that antennas for the 10-, 13-, 15-, and (possibly) even 18- and 20-m bands, will fit entirely inside the typical town house attic. This statement is also true of the 11-m citizens band antenna. But what about the lowerfrequency bands? Figure 15.1 hints at a possible solution for the lower frequencies (specifically, 80, 40, and 30 m) in a town house or single-family residence where the radio enthusiast has access to the highest interior space. In a sticky situation we can install a dipole with its arms bent in conformity with the space available. In this example, only one of many possible methods for accomplishing this job is shown. Here each quarter-wavelength section is composed of two legs, AB and CD, respectively. Ideally, segments B and C are the longest dimensions. Another method is to reverse the direction of one end leg—say, for example, D—and run it to the other corner of the building over the peak of the roof. In reality, you might not be able to use the exact layout shown—so ad lib a little bit. How about performance? Will the constrained dipole of Fig. 15.1 work as well as a regular dipole installed a wavelength or two off the ground and away from objects? Of course not—especially for DXing, where low radiation angles make a big difference. But that is not the problem being solved; getting on the air at all is the problem at hand. You will find that the pattern of the constrained dipole is distorted compared with that of the regular dipole. In addition, the feedpoint impedance is not going to be 50 or 73 Ω (except by some fluke), so you will be required to use an antenna tuner of some kind. Although wood (as in rafters and studs) is an insulator, the wire used in the constrained dipole (or other forms of attic antenna) should be mounted on TV-type screwin standoff insulators if any significant output power is employed. Almost any store that sells TV antennas or accessories will have them. These standoff insulators are also available in many local hardware stores and department stores that sell TV antennas, as well as at electronics parts suppliers. MHz Caution Do not simply tape or staple the wire to the wooden underside of your roof. The reason is simple: In all transmitting antennas, voltages can get high enough—not only at the ends but at many multiple locations along the wire—to produce corona effects. The resulting arcing can easily start a fire! Another alternative for the attic antenna is the nonresonant loop shown in Fig. 15.2. Although presented as a top view, the loop can be installed in any configuration that is compatible with the available space. In fact, the best performance will be bidirectional when the loop is installed vertically. Again, use standoff insulators and insulated wire for the installation. Ideally, the giant loop is fed with parallel line and tuned with a balanced ATU, but it is no crime to feed it with coaxial cable. As was true with the constrained dipole, the performance is not to be equated with the performance of higher antennas outside but is far superior to the prospect of not being on the air at all!

C h a p t e r 1 5 : H i d d e n a n d L i m i t e d - S p a c e A n t e n n a s 365<br />

As we have mentioned many times, the length of a l/2 dipole is given approximately<br />

by<br />

L<br />

ft<br />

468<br />

= (15.1)<br />

F<br />

If you do some quick calculations you will find that antennas for the 10-, 13-, 15-, and<br />

(possibly) even 18- and 20-m bands, will fit entirely inside the typical town house attic.<br />

This statement is also true of the 11-m citizens band antenna. But what about the lowerfrequency<br />

bands?<br />

Figure 15.1 hints at a possible solution for the lower frequencies (specifically, 80, 40,<br />

and 30 m) in a town house or single-family residence where the radio enthusiast has<br />

access to the highest interior space. In a sticky situation we can install a dipole with its<br />

arms bent in conformity with the space available. In this example, only one of many<br />

possible methods for accomplishing this job is shown. Here each quarter-wavelength<br />

section is composed of two legs, AB and CD, respectively. Ideally, segments B and C are<br />

the longest dimensions. Another method is to reverse the direction of one end leg—say,<br />

for example, D—and run it to the other corner of the building over the peak of the roof.<br />

In reality, you might not be able to use the exact layout shown—so ad lib a little bit.<br />

How about performance? Will the constrained dipole of Fig. 15.1 work as well as a<br />

regular dipole installed a wavelength or two off the ground and away from objects? Of<br />

course not—especially for DXing, where low radiation angles make a big difference.<br />

But that is not the problem being solved; getting on the air at all is the problem at hand.<br />

You will find that the pattern of the constrained dipole is distorted compared with that<br />

of the regular dipole. In addition, the feedpoint impedance is not going to be 50 or 73 Ω<br />

(except by some fluke), so you will be required to use an antenna tuner of some kind.<br />

Although wood (as in rafters and studs) is an insulator, the wire used in the constrained<br />

dipole (or other forms of attic antenna) should be mounted on TV-type screwin<br />

standoff insulators if any significant output power is employed. Almost any store<br />

that sells TV antennas or accessories will have them. These standoff insulators are also<br />

available in many local hardware stores and department stores that sell TV antennas, as<br />

well as at electronics parts suppliers.<br />

MHz<br />

Caution Do not simply tape or staple the wire to the wooden underside of your roof. The<br />

reason is simple: In all transmitting antennas, voltages can get high enough—not only at<br />

the ends but at many multiple locations along the wire—to produce corona effects. The<br />

resulting arcing can easily start a fire!<br />

Another alternative for the attic antenna is the nonresonant loop shown in Fig. 15.2.<br />

Although presented as a top view, the loop can be installed in any configuration that is<br />

compatible with the available space. In fact, the best performance will be bidirectional<br />

when the loop is installed vertically. Again, use standoff insulators and insulated wire<br />

for the installation. Ideally, the giant loop is fed with parallel line and tuned with a balanced<br />

ATU, but it is no crime to feed it with coaxial cable. As was true with the constrained<br />

dipole, the performance is not to be equated with the performance of higher<br />

antennas outside but is far superior to the prospect of not being on the air at all!

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