do Instituto Hidrográfico

74 ANAIS DO INSTITUTO HIDROGRÁFICO N.º 15
Finally, the last and may by the most important is the
fact that it is enough only one run of the model for a
complete characterization of the area of interest, while
all the additional computations are being made in real
time outside the model.
6. Index of Symbols
Diss – energy dissipation per unit time,
DLENC – global variable, length of the grid in directional
space,
Dspr – directional width of the spectrum (directional spreading),
DXC1,2 – length of the meshes in x direction,
DYC1,2 – length of the meshes in y direction,
s, u – energy density spectrum,
FLENC – global variable, length of the grid in frequency space,
Fspr – frequency width of the spectrum (frequency spreading),
g – acceleration of gravity,
k sh – advanced shore coefficient,
Llj – j-line length,
MDC – global variable, number of meshes in directional space,
MFC – global variable, number of meshes in frequency spaces,
MXC1,2 – number of meshes in x direction,
MYC1,2 – number of meshes in y direction ,
N (s, u) – action density spectrum,
Npj – number of points on the j-line,
Ste – wave steepness,
TM01 – wave period,
wd – imposed water depth for the isolines,
Wl – wavelength (respectively deep water wavelength,
(x 1j , y 1j ), (x 2j , y 2j ) – j-line end points,
XoX, YoY, ZoZ – grid matrices corresponding to x, y and
respectively depth directions,
XCO2 – x coordinate of the origin of the reshaped grid,
XLENC1,2 – length in x direction
YCO2 – y coordinate of the origin of the reshaped grid,
YLENC1,2 – length in y direction,
dst r – minimum grid step,
dst j – step for the j-line,
V – MATLAB ceil function,
C , C * – isoline operators,
r – density water,
s (s – ) – relative frequency (respectively mean frequency),
u – mean wave direction,
j 3 – deep water form of the Iribarren number,
* – indices 1 and 2 refer of the initial and respectively the
reshaped grids.
7. Acknowledgments
This work is a contribution for two projects developed
in Instituto Hidrografico of the Portuguese Navy:
PAMMELA2 (Nearshore Wave Forecasting: Spectral
Models and Data Assimilation) supported by grant
PDCTM/P/MAR/15242/1999 from Fundação para Ciência
e a Tecnologia and MOCASSIM (Oceanographic Model-
ing Implementation with Data Assimilation) also
supported by a grant from Fundação para Ciência e a
Tecnologia.
Eugen Rusu acknowledges a fellowship for scientific
investigation from «Fundação para a Ciência e
Tecnologia».
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