Shoes_and_Pattens

SHOES AND PATTENS

OBITTARY
]largrethe de Neersadd, Fn Hr
Virye$e de Neelqad dred n ,^@i 19s7, d
tbe hd.:iy ear\ 4e or 34, ju* as $s bo.k
MEDIE
ST
il ror sev.ral yeds, and n h r dbde
i. her bnvery, dekhiidloi rd sheer
4ihusi$m lor the sbjEd thd dApire pati,r
dr$birity she Ms,ble ro bhns $ose sections
for {hi.h she sas ctue0y respons'ble -
shamtiw ard Cat,ttn4
ai Shu: in An atu Lit rdLutu -
\
c

MEDIEVAL FINDS FROMEXCAVATIONS IN LONDON: 2
SHOES AND PATTENS
Francis Grew and Mar$ethe de Neergaard
lllustrations bI Susan Mitford
THE BOYDELL PRISS

@ rt33,200r urcurolLondon
,1/ R(r' -erdl.r. ff,dp, r P.rmiticd ddd flff. l.gillanon
no p of rhn work nrl be phoo@picn, noRd in a ttijeval tdcE
ptr6LL5hcd, pdlomrd i'rpubli. rdaFtd, brcad@i
msmiftcd, (did€d or (Pioduced in uv rdm or bv nf nsnq
{irhotr, ilrpriorPcmrsion of thc !oP)iigbI ow!&
Fn$ puunhed lt33
Hd Maie5.I s Sbdon.ry Ofll<
Nsv <dnion 2001
Repin(d 2002, 2004
Th. Bolde[ r(s, Voodbridse
rsBN o 35rr53332
A Nlu$uD ofL o! rubln on
NtuRum of London, I ondor Vtll.
l,!dd,ECItHN
w.mNunoflondon olg uk
'r]t Bovdcll lre$ n in iDpi'n ol Boldrll & Brew{ Ltd
PO Bo\ 9, \Uoodbidgq Sullolk lP r 2 3DF. UK
,t oiBoldcll & Bre$fht
PO Box 41026, Ro.hen(, NY 14604-4126, USA
wwboticll.o uk
AdRloguc rt.od aorrh; 6ook i anil,hle
aron dr Brni5h Lihflry
Libdry of Corgr.$ Crhlog card NuDbo, 20010i2'r20
Ths pubkrtioo ir princdon a.id liee PiP.f
lrinad in Ct{ BiGin by
Sr Edmundstu4 P'e!5 Lihnrd. Btr.ySt Edmund5, Sufiolk

Contents
i'3 netho&, archiv€ and conEntions
&!n Lo.don sites, 1100_1450
..'t lzhtdtlry - kbr 12k dntua 'a t/n1d lsh dnt@ - ldt. 13k ond .ub l,lh
e'i: flid t4k drtn4
*Lott, .h@,oL 4c litlsd am airadn dttnc l1u?a d
b-br.n' a atiFtd tF d.a4nH.havd"^ b'r'a14Pirho'd
;n* i,,-'dr10'w.d to' lurts tb) rtdn Edd\ ' '$ai'ond4u'
att'rtot,4 . t'lt t. r.. ,r^ h"hq Nr'| ,lJtt-trth 'atu'.
and w€r prkems: so.irlinler€n.eB
aa wa'ttu. onn a4anira ol thr kd
and lit'fta t nlkts lata - tuh,t : t"d .hlvtd\ sh6
of tu!.€s a.d.dn.oidance
o) c,agn ri,, (by Kdhdine sbniq)
Darie 'n French rd Geman

Acknowledgements
i]u]r]snd}|qrudcn.conm*id')
IJ.rrl,rrr
{rrrd f.rd.s Ren:dr aio.i!'rID'
Etr'i-:
r:.1, ii '1,. ro
d, I nim hsuime C'ouP
:: ! :1..t trord{,lJdEc lrlmJoniidrl'e
\i.,:,, i,. sdrLrts Conitrsor llrLLh$4r!''
:i r' ltsL!tr Cmirn
i i.{\trD L:bor,t.rr: b tL liddf (Brir\[
,id lirir,lL{L.l'e ilron{r1trprolidirgnLmrrii'
n ll'eid, mi C.rmD r+edi!.lv to J.tr Brle!
T*for rl!6r and Jii sdrier of 1rr. IIU+um s
!, Jol 'lui! tm'
lhrk. ro$ ri,!i. CeoJi Esrn oLlr Corrirz
\nlm \lrcr!o,.
PIi,l,rtd llksrh tsDisFr.er Jum S{xir
Ro, lrrrL;$ lLr \nr. rnd11ilv Cnr'n'n
md rontnldbi\ t, tltr kn 1rd. iirllr r' fild

Inrroductionto
second edition
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sho.mrtr5 q.6 T q
onun<!i 4.h fn,l irde m Lordi h m" )'lh
crary 6i,,h rsj4, !r5xi rc- jn.lE Britkh
r,{Ln4o), for the q(od &NidQbLrrhc drg! o}
BAA\(ASsER, \{ &COLTBITZ. O,1990 Ledo llor en rexiele lbndsrcD, i! H dfln & Ivl 5n4
vn$aLr k rtil: ntt'tukgtrtb un&t tu Kl\Pd t37t )925 YrnP'r io'"
EGAN C& PruTCri$D,F,1991 Drs,4rs'r;{
Mcdila'l Finds 'rcD h'xv
on5 i! t'ndon'
IINGERjrN, r. rggt Der hdenhAll, r M UntlEmr (.di Di' Ltn "/'t
A's'r'x?ffin1'
Kkn?s j, Fribrr! i,t B4gn!, ae irlh.lic zuf tu hiologn h BrdclvinEDb$g, 3 1 (stutrgxn)
GROENldAr.i VAN vAATENNGE, V t 3! Di Lkl.tfae u' Hr'('! Bei'hre iib( dr€
Auig b(ne.n!, Hanhebu. zl (NqDtste4
GROENI{AN !A\ \1,A,:!IF.RINCL,.$I'1E L 'tufad M.'lttt/ sa'l"{. Thc Arlhiolog)
oiMcJn!,I S\€ndbdig. D.om{k, 5 (Odensunreriq PruJ

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:::btrnBen !' schlsNig, Bdnhr und Sndi.n. l0 (Neu,itr(;
rf i;oroer.m srder witrrmbss lc/t!trarrr
..:lTH,CR, r35,t C4 c!1r 'ftlE M$an af bnbn Artir,ri,
']an,Jor)
i{)\'L{S, C, 5t OANE B & PHILTPOTTS. C, l9t7 Eaura$ i,ttt, tritll ont H^rifut,}.Sl
.!:. stid! r.and'\ MaL\s \Ionac(fh sri.s, I (Mu$um oi London)
: r!!J,r rd hm ben pcdtrtc io Nrnr thi5 tnrcdudo, *nLout lhe gricrcus r!$n.e ofohi
L O...\'outJ
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: . irdo inaonudon ,6ou rhc5ire5trndlhcnd ng, se Egtrr & prir.hxJd 1991,l-12 The t6!e
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" roup ariri ,T.bk. ".no,o.".ed,Do s. *r onr ,rd,o( otro
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l rhe coNo(la(<, pp 129 r0 *trh Egin & rlnchrid 199r,6 s)
: :,r( bu.kls. $c at$ EFn & prndDa r9,l,66_/ s67

Key
Fe nnld spleadon of d. cc
wd e clNry, pp. r2].5
Grain/flesh stitching
Edge/flesh stitchirg
Birding-stitch
Tmel-stitching

Introduction
r.ndu?r mr.mL (for
: r\lde^ e iri d 'he cvoLution or dlrter!'r { fle:
l-.dhff dn!ni*
riJ iiru.'obn.ondL.oDi
nerrrod. Sixo \omnfidrer.
trl, trm,r,.
.. :Ls dr pr!dudoiinun,rr rh,llLo.oponri
des.nbediorn)n0..lurtr!lone!oIallLotrdor
rird. rr lhn d!! lrnr.lrfd fotl'.oitrtrsi {lji.
plob:bl!b.LncL|dednriuLLtr4.othaTudol
rLL\ bd$e.n rlre q, dll]LL rid rltr Lordon
abloqEs lCuiLdhiLLpFLensi!.
rni e[|1o hi]eni
'lr.r 191)3; l-.ddor \lusdm l93a: re10) n
foilDjd:Ll..ie
ll9)
bLr i' hi! blsl
pmisrnorniior r,ndiorsrM dd:ilr rbef m
pErd ,irm the b.eillig d.Ni .i 11[
:ildr lf,e
.o,n.ded
ruturaseie.rioN ltrthrfirt.bsoter.slAt,i
-. q, r,c tuilj, brnrt oJ the lrime\ (rar.

@ c o
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(D
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cto
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o ooCL
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+ I
ffi
It t'
h1
l-

h $ *rii.rLsaNe tu rc.hDque or !wtn*i
tr0r I inerubl! to r0..rhnt s$r(.!. btrl
(l) rlr. heighr or tl'. quncn +o.i beDg
rhoserbdm:da:hoesnorerde4niof ;.n r
(ould te y\i inh the Arisimq ro*:lrlie
drrrer or lrctng k.
(3) rh. fd r nrp,tdl rr. tu iniD.e.
?endd!drr!r,rrDd(r
rrrL6L ry nl(in
brmfr irn, i iii ! r! drdl ig rhe upDer rrom i
or dr b!*L! r., {ef51i n!riin! +r: f.on
ihnugh the r.ltb .cffuc
nu\t hi!e heei iLm,n
rodi!. The Lrrer nrLes \rcrt qft!i rlr! nds riar
vrLk donffiDs dtr slft l+drLr,,3er ot1h.n
r'rtrli eiiolld I brer losue
lhith \.re popu f d di. b.ghms or rlp rrli
.em'ry :|d trstrh. p*bi0! fd mo seientions d
d! nde lred boor.
cDmpai!. ndsed, h:d ..,& into beiis rry t2i? ir
rh? cred Fire !rtdude: rnr d&r!d .r!nigx.
or de.ontion s.r
inro
r sone is$ mrde plsLbLe b! th. r.rrnriL
drrdDrrnrs thrt re d'$trsad ii rhe se.ond
.bipter. srr,,!,l,{.r/ ,rrri,r (rr 11 90).
eignred rdrte morfs ts.r blLdr $ tqi6)
id, ,s :hofn n ihe loLLo iN .hrpr. Parotr

fhtrl6butllntbriitr!tldkj||!kle
t]fN'!lbd'Bn[Llltr.itrL)lnh1,dN
Tl]!|]d fol|l[pi'trtrmdd$tn
']n.dj.!lr.'tsA\jL[nrtrrl|u]itrg|iUe
:. .m rro0 lk d'Pt{ d si/i 0rr df &r
ng
r4iL d thp ,. !r.. d
|'-n![rl..d*!'-".h.r..".,h."'
nr,ijlcul]dnl.i{|[0Log]iLliidl\mtd
!.;;. {i s -, i': .Qr{
rhi.{ Ddidl d'd+t id's ir moDrrndmd
ift nlLri+Likd.r rNsibrelrdminn'
.ji,i. r Ldsif dirla\ rh6 ri b
r'fi
rehjY. rhtrs n) m! ind f'r m trtr
,:i.A lhi ) ti
,.:,i { 2 013!&T?rrb:2)
1!r trlren ue
:, rhe\ Dl! IIQ rfrd$ I'on sDoi iid.r
|jtrd'].fde]{vhd!
:!!! rrri Ei? ft +!dd mtLlo: om$ids
'il,! &hfolo4(nrttu.d Fsq\ ne m6'
-rn 0i $r,.h i.e ltreb Lods md lrkns
'!Do{r l !{nfds
uhlitrm ?r ro(5, \hd' Pre\firbtr Nde nor

rrly r.de ii the lms tr vilass vhm they
weE sold .rd !sed, ; r idther indistid of s.
hl!fuiioBl cll'mtd oJ mrtLwest Europ. h
mdi*altim*'pnendr.fieexch,'georides
at€venthe hnhlestlcv.lvas hcljued lry Fide,
s$dbiE snd @ass !wel. h thir f.r, d€
srudy otfoo!{€d in L\e lre&nt olldidn 6 b.
resarrled 6 a snhluiim nd o.ly b ilE iistory
ofLndd bur b tne bi*ory olEnrope s a whole.

Recording methods, archive and
conventions used in thereport
r,,rtrds c*lLr ui Trig Lrie *4e eilo:cd n
]ibe]hd {j$ trr mn|,* ,,1 'ht iidnsben;
mdtehLgetllment{ilhd.bj]s'ii?$enDg'
Ra(i*{.d Frds : ue
rt I ' \. irh ii utT! LliFrr n B ms_-ni
irs? F..Jr n. F.. pi .t olJ ir
N.re r.rifllril! {trrixnr. Th. {,rb{ oa

.i+,,:-*{r;i*:ru
{herc. s nih$ thev mav l'c e\:mred bv pnor
rlr:.l**,:l*'
h;tsll'ur*+t*t
s,'@r dri Pd'ta_
+l,rri"ttil"
''ft''Illti;1;il"iffi
;:jir ii,,i.'.;rrk,i ;""'"
ff*ffi:; slrlt i,;n *;lli[l
--n'f,;ruti';ffi
S

Shoes from London sites, 1100-1450
I rrtrs d'iprer n,oe h$jo^s jn i_o on Dytr a
l!.{saso.i]td{iiljt[!nlesjlrDseNesf
1 J' d'. d.posns ! rlhjfh the! \ere jou and
Egi*otion iu,bG {d;dividnLddes, aie to
6e ian\dnnhe L tnI/t$q odn,ard'"attp.
12630) iod.,"\pLoded dn\unesotn yshoes,
frrNnB.h.prripp. 51 71).
lhe eaitinid 121h.elrury ([ig 3)
rb. Lzth .enn'n rnd rlert lound ln jui ts!
drpor6. { Scr Ho$e xnd tsilljngsgde Tlre
respedLvPl' ) bf !i
id Ln ihe jnu*Etions ro d.mre hn ind nshl
kom rhe $yles ?nd t.hiiquei of the Dre&ding

Pnrhd
oi rhe one h?nd G.c
r.{hdDins) 10 those ol the hter 12th
oDe ot lbe sboes trom Billi.gsFte is r in*nc
indii'on mcoaoDting man] or the.hr4tenstic
rcdurcs or London rootsetr or rhe rxh .enlury
(rig. 4). rt \€s :r,io{ cetuidt ?n anue shoe,
onri:llr rulju$.boye the ankLe bone, ed the
r refr tmt.r Irn,tu
shoeGeeberow p 47) and
lo$iblr usins {ool n(her
noh,L ? q-mz4in on the eper aid , ro{ ol
ruiner $jr.hes on rhe sole, nset srishdy fron the
edge Gee also FE.3, e p. s1).'fhe s.le n
irrghr sided s yet wirho4 the ruif rhar
rypilies m/Ly :l r:rer nediev, ?nd noder.
sboes,aidhasakpeniB,Finledheel*hi.hnses
shaped cm-om Ln tlrl qurde^. Trre upper is .r
, sroup ot seven dosety
deposib $se$ Norld have.ontaned: paf ol
shod inteNoyen thones (Parhed forh.oniq)
These rhongs wert prGun:bry onuneibr - or
d no* helped to hold rhe loper in +ape rt the
qftteG - :id ii h tr r kD.$n hos rhe shoe itselt
All the other items in the e t lzi]]reiturt
respeds. The nod obviors is rhd the sotes,
aL$ough sr qdte suaigr,r,sided fe invaroblt
rlar dd rouided a! the heel. The qnden $ere
sone!fusdrenlthenedonlhensde$1tnati
'r,eer $iffen8r'
{hose rom my id tad hare
sole (F. Pnthad, pns. .omm.). At rhe srme
tina the bsic .onsh.tion of shoes *A
t?.slomed by dis.eding
$nps or oids ware fomd in rhe presenr deposirs
no0e oI these ath.hed to a shoe - rnd the fact
thdthehnlgmginsnonanyhaveverysnd
doselyapaced eithes Gee belov o. ,13) is a
Edly l2th.centdry shoes sen either to haye
been poft .s slip.ons or to haye been hiened
{ilhaleatherthoq- dnwnriq' suppofredin
heisht betveei $ose cut di.bht on the lne ofthe
,nlde la g Ft. 6) .id those nsing t oi 2 inches
(25-50 m) abore it (e{. Fus. 5 & 3), w{e by
rar the mon pop'nr s$le. Th8re ee ody $o
he shoes (FiF. 7 & l1), and only oie booi: &is
h of a distincrie type ro be described i, rhe n,axt
se.rion (pp. r!r5&Fi$. t5-16) $hereby the

Ilo{ shoes {er poinr.d rhe roe, bu1 nieLr Ior the r? i aid early l3rh.enruncs, {hei ve!.'
{n rhF hzre been so essse red .s on ls! low slth ioob:.ds have suflved, olner exp]?fr
a.ue sho4 ron sear Hruse (Fts 5 6). The
rt .ortd hrE been osed ro
serre a fabn. tr tur rhins shi.h is nov misine or
tr4mlr hile been *ufed to Eiain thcn sMpe, it may bp &t tbe edge s:s meieh boDd {irh
dnsr,.o $jde^.e ror rhn suniyes This {as a tbread The,tu4emen6 d th. froar oI the sr,oe
nle sblrh fldier Londor 6nds md hinondl m uideu, but rbe posiron or $e sifubiljl (Fi3
$urcs sho{ !, ru! o.rdod D ihe hr rxh 33) sqsens thd d'c i'isi's i.sen an nsht
rd(! (Parclrrd ronh.ominsr, Lu! \'hi.h is fr$ lbe in$ep dd mtry elen h?!r orertapped
tund od, nrery in dep.sirs Do{.ddi0s.ll50 rhe siun fl:p oa lje olhs side. ln this ':y the
|dhshmsacla'gesollutlh{NeIepmb?bl!
dros esyLnrdnolthe ao.i aid rhei.losed ro
niudiod {nh i i14,.:t main seam otr rlE iin4 rolm a snug doubleahnkies se,l. The kcond
5de One G.omplcr. bui lor a sdlLi.5e( d rhe iikre shoe requned io insers ?nd zppem ro
lunp ihro* aDd {s rareied b! quire r brord bzrt beei ., sriFn IFe Mh .o adduioial
dnrEtrne ({id$ oa rqtre$jd 6 mm) pasing lzneut OB 0) ln ilns ssc, th. ,bsei.e ol
rhtuughasinsrarovotslor(Ft 5) As on mtr) niidios Gis. 34)
lhocs or d'is 'he (ql Figs. 7, 3) :.d larer, ibeie openq d lbe ump trmar, add, A oi n.$ shoes
d rhn dde, $e leainer hrs been.urand se?med
edle From the lar8 13$ .eitufy o.eads rhi: rms ,r idcp t, p(ryide fleibitih * the point
i mon inva.ablr sc. b n{k rhe lomer pre {hfte ir baids slrarpry ftom the hoazonbro irE
sen.e or? ledher ed!ru $np. or topbmd , bd

Mey of the fedurts des.nhed re.ur on o$cr
3hoes { thi\ pcnod, thoud the toes de odl
sliEhtLy pninted A r:rge nmber, hostver F
de.onted vlrh eFbrdide.) iormally {ith a
dnpcrmingdomthe.e re ofihe vamp, btrin
oie iiid.e also uth ? b?nd oi rle qndcA Gc.
helos, i ?5 9. nns is a lom ol orabeii
$b.h r 6r* re.oided in Loidon deposiis oI ihe
Lre 11th cenrury - thoush dsawl'u. pcrhaps
\
popuh Ior .bo!t , .eitury, brely odlrws the
12thanttrq.Shoes di vanp {npcs*ere mrde
ii . rrso ofsizcs (tbe lour thd are 'io* .omprete
ne*Ure ..177(Fig. 3)
(Fis 7), .orcspoMing to the moded stes l0
(.hiro r1 Gbird) I (aduu) ad. probably, 3 (xdtrLt)
respedllely) and as
ixunntiom Gee belo{ p. l13l mun bave been
lon by both mei lnd woner, droueh thet
re{aded to those o( high {,ixlshr$ li'.om'
Frisoi *iri rho larscr boo6 ind ankk r,oes lcr.
Fis.5) sboes ol rlis knd seem q relsht!!ndE
rnd jt is po$ible thd ilq rer. inrended mriDly
o'rly one ol rbe embrojdered pie.es in th.
presed groups r cedai'nr troD a d'oe ntl'.r tha
an an*le shoe (F,g. 7). In mrny ftspecG it is rery
olese]:]]Ioigpie.e.oistructiod:]beil*'i'h
a shU d;! insen (Do{ ni$ing) toig lbe dpper
edse on the inner side - ind h i.s r smal vediul
tened *lrh drapsrid8s vhich Dds tkoush a
siisle, or in one cAe i double. tus oI slot
usuany o.e sLot on eitber side ol the rrep. The
illu*Eted exmpb (r,g. s) hd a *npe made up oI

:irt. nr$ rr e'iLr.ldefl, rarher rlun : rqle
:\rAo,il,e +oe
'tssered,<hr$). As rn th.6r$ hall ol the.en
..i{ diotr. bd tr'.i oi rhe iLes rme ol
lhe rll]; sho,"rotlh 5d,e.xnle i'mmrised
uJe : $:ll
rnaqulaL i$str ("o'y trrsiig) r rhe
-iBju m rhe iiier sida ([( 9) rbjsrs 'he jlai
sibh|smpl.J'dqblein.s|[66F.nrr'
lifrlr lse [!Ldr, duiebi.rdsijlhl po,r6 i./
Frs r2), Frn uy rrri kb rrhi eerequitebtu:d
md tumded (liss.13.16)
rnie\ d Seil lloule. $ggeiln! Ibd iher h?d
-.relshof
teredh on,"ndr uliiredrhida
trbsaft lro.i nnre,ipodfl irruri:riois (see
belo\. ! r,r)iil 1lr mfre nqa:ln! - bnr rhe,e
.-imr t) lrve lr.,d ., ile tii^{!lu rtir(o(.
fu d!t.e]r!r} ceelelo{ p 13) :'dfud:;ad
i! u\e rrr.tun!r !nir rhe lerl ed '( ihe medLeyrl
lenod AF D! ,e iri$$rnD! +ori rlremelres.
rhr rin shoe n, be dlsru*ed i\ qrne d ieieit
rrt \iDp, h{e(d
b! i dn\diD! rni.h rNed
slot (rI FE J) 'flr{e m d LeFr Iir eii DL.s
. rri thnil\?srr{flred[]rdirnni!ormf
ir{
lnrc beei N),, Lf; Fr! !.uns.hiLi Il is
', edmvhrr Geereror, |)0 r6-r7?ndFi!:
iin+ md lord rr't uo! jm b! joiiiag 'rr
::r.\
sl[4, oie tom IIlk streer (3 re{is
frq! ser House o0

r. dre sme de!.sirs, bo*eyer, ft ar teAt
twelve lrasnen$ ot . ftther diterent siyle, a bx
'Dkle{hoe or tun boot The mo{ compreie (fi8
13) is a nn\ boot, ecry romded d i[e im, qhilh
orisin:ny smd ro a heishi of . 200 nn ind thus
rcached nea y ro uid olt rr G oI,{np{rcund
constd.tiodBth:sm,ntda4rnainsgdalihe
sboes nd booc of ihh pe,iod - .nd rso more
iisens $e top ind.bove rhe indep. rhere sa
to $ilchiq doq the DFr edse, lor binding or a
overtheopedngflapsaldE'onliJd'si(e
sti.bnu ms ashi acro* $e insrer. .lmod ce.
biilytheress a torsle 6oush rbs itselihm not
sudlved and ns fom is un.enain. The boot hA
susivtug fragneft wheiner &is was a stnste
stiq sound .ortinmusly rouid $e l* or seren
sepute srints lied tosether at the liont On a
s.ond, sbdler .id mu.h more iragmenbl_r boot
remins in prz.. (Fig. 11). irere re &ree ri.s of
har been delrtsately ivlsred, perhaps for
de.ontve ared, is kioned d the rd{en sbt on
the outer side; this s@eis thd n wA then
{ound ontinuousiy uprrds i. concenric cides
on $e exmpres :lready dennbed rhe dw-
*dngs pAsed droush slob cut in the upper but
aftangenentvheftbytheypasgddYotrghloops
upvrds. -fhes $ongs nere themsehes
L\readed l@*ly 6rou$ paiF or slob, ud erh
had a spad.shzped lemin:l {hi.h vas mchorcd
againn tne bve{ slot on the jislde T}e mo$
complet! booi ol il'is rypa co@s lron a deposn oI
the 13th cenrury but is bes .onsidered here in rhe
$ieal dh.6sion ol the sb'le (F,s. r5). ft is ol
heel, io suppon $e dia{striig, The slring itseuis
zo'dal insen on $e im{ side, a ropbod add a loig oily Dafrly in ph.e, but n seems posible thd it
tmrqxh edsinc $np $hi.h w6 se{n to the str se.ured by a knotied 4ainn the inside oithe
rdp thro.t at the b.se and lorned m overlapping
a.! ro! opening. The boot hs only one veni.:l o.iirudslyupwaldsdtrdgljth€sldshdtbdg
thoq on (he outer sde over inc anlde, vhere ii
'nre purpose of the snalL sudivins knot ii the
rd &ree senes oI ot[er end oi the dfts$nns is uncleai.

) \i." tflt'4 r',rtt) urn
oder exanphs ol lnis !'pe bad nore !b& one
reni.?l thons. Tne moi .omprele of these hm
rhree remaining one on either side and the thnd in
$. middle or $e in{ep (Fis 16). Ii n an:nue
.hoe.nd robibly sFivas io ih oridMr height,
dthough eren this is not .ediii becadse n h6
:
0I tle sida tlonss hG lor. L@ps bul rhe .edtrJ
h..s oily Lliee it h likelr thd 6i boot rlso s^
hled.onunuously with r jde dn{fing
Th€ erlr/nid r3.h cenrq (Fig l7)
h is b the 6rd h? oIthe13thcentu4rbattlre
r Sd flo$e (t{o strresive deposiis.oirainins
r1 dd s redsbied sho$ respe.liveL, ,id
sillligsgac (hree deposits, 3, ti, and 24 rc&$
rred shoes) These ue smmadsed in Tables
dlrerei.e ii rrie ryDes topleseded.
li k lmmediately obrious thd the Sel House
{d B iqscare asemblages m very sinil,r
lables t 2). flic
b3en d$,nbred {Ir @ds, rd rhe sotes haye
quiie. prond!rced s?isted shipe geneElly {ith
i tuund or oul sh?ped toe Gee, ror ex,mplc,
nLss 21,24) As w.s;lindly the pncti.e n the
r2th .entuo, the upp*s m mostiy oronc pie.e
'vcp.areund .onsddion, uth insers dded
*hcrc nc.cs4 but incr m ror rle fi6r time
sever:r exafpks ol shoes rode in rro main
se.riods - vrD ai{i qude^ - {ith seznx on
both sides ol the foo( (r'ts. 25, ?3). This B a typ!
ol.onnnd'onloundspondrdxydYotrghofiine

Ig!=-
be.ome ,i&spread und rhe se.ond hatf ot rhe
1,1$.eniuryG3ebelos, pp 3r-3). De.ontion is
passd otrt or fashioi though shotrtd iot be
lor$trei rhd the concendc l,.ing .irdes on otL
may have had some
otumenhl, N *ellas tundional !:he
@ by lir the no{
.onmon ro.n or foorwer, :..o!iting ior over h:tf
ine tobl iumber of i0diliduany regi*ered 6nds
rTxbras r-2)'fbere aft !d sn shoes.ur betow
0re ankre, ?nd three or i]jese nay h:ve been a
spehl type oI ndoor slrpper siellar to rhd found
in one of the eady r?th.enry lrodps (F!qs.
13) The t{o vlnch are
mos comprete wer. bdh irde f.D singte pnces
or r€r) thin, soit rearher \ith ? 6nely nitch.d b&
seam joining 'he sdLa td the upper, 3t'nos .erir,ny
{ithour ftnds. There sas bndiis or x rorb,id
(noL strrtjling) bd no ree ot dJl fa{ening
one (Ft. 13) n conve.iionaly {yred, hjsh ar ihc
in*ep. {hereA tho odpr (Fis 19) G .ul rery lo$

.
;
;
rJ:l in thd it h.s . lois $rip iisen round th.
..ss pd ot rhe quafrers, lo$lblt destDed ror
$sy rcpla.ement in ihe event ol selere wetr io
as in d'e 12ii c.nrury thc mo{ comon sii.
rs the low boot or:nue sl'oe f,*emd wnn a
ia{sting vound onc. or t{j.e rtuDd t$ leg,
:.imallyju( below ihe rnlle fl.bles 1-2; Fts.
10 23). lrpre$'oc md the sue olthe sloG sho{
roro r 5 nnaro$ T[e 13$.enIu4 eianples
:.ndtonsemu.hhuherur 6e h3th,ithe[ 12r]!
:Jdtrded at th. toe, but again then ?pperan.e
:he imrft$jor $ar rlris was a style lavored
:ii. tun booG and side li.ed shoes (descabed
?low) :Inoi al rem Io h?!e been {om by nc..

ad..n.:nl'sSnnniMslldinsen*inebaf
di,,!!eD.e frdo ertei erdpres js lne absen.e of
e olen?pping firp optnjns (4 Figs 5, 3) ln
but mat h.ve retuined oped at the top. This
dafpjcsddcdinFig
eiii|e|yhthelzih.enfu4'ilmerJdeveihA
'}ose id Figs, 21-23
ftpb.nds and other reinrorcefterlple.es de not
.hird\ shft illu*Eted (Fig. 23), rhe presen.e or a
The tull boot ldamd wiil' a drtrsstrids sound
mt tines roudd rhe les h tr lurher *yle Fhlch
codinuedinuse inio 6e edly r3th.enhry. The
elab.nte tFe, in rhi.h the $tug pNsed Lbroush
(.1 Fiss. 15 1O, n
4asp|4olt}esinplereren,The|lNtled
bool (Ft 24) h very si'iil:. ro ore found li the
edlier srolps (Ft t3) - eeei to the extent ol
dnrub$$d2 6marcs l! h,lso refr(kable
Ior the iumbn ,n,i compbrny ol lhe iisens on
the nner side, a ledure +ded {iih one oI the
anue shoes desnbed bero{ (Fu. 27) and
of suff.ienr sDe rd quariiy d ds be
Gee
ft those laed d $e side. This style oI lasten-
Asenblases od, .o eftelt, has beer found o'ny
spoddi.all! iD litr ones belor enelqi.s as the
lsu cc.tury Gee
belo{, o. 43).There m slx eMnples ii all, of
vlnch LLyee afe shoes cui belos the anl]e dd rvo
ee,nue{boes (T.bles I 2). All saeh !o h.!e
been h.ed on the mer sde. Anois the shoes,
ue .v0 *hi.h m mo* complere de ahon idenlicar
in rom, beins qune high d rhe innep bui verr
lo{ at L\e heeli bo$ roy orytrxy hale had rop.
buds(./.Fiss.27&e0) thoush irese io loiler
strruive - rnd ftinforcnenrpie.o oyer the lace
boles on the mde. om €t 25) h?s elaborde
open{ork de.orarioi b:*d on tun*e, cnc'rtd,
rectag d dd cfrdlom moliis. ed n or ivoinbd
but . smzll infni whi.h loned rre vanp on
lie hrer side ed .mied oia ser of lace.holes, is
iow mising rhe o$er shoe (Ft. 26) is mde
entnely in one piece, aid on the yrmp ihrod h ,
rough k,,ire .dt wilh I pan ot holes on erher side,
vhich po$iblr was made by the vee.r to relieve

one ol thr r le-+oas
tbre spmt inseis (Fi! ,t) o.e L:4e p'e.e
..ideds ii to tu h.el4d.onhiis jtr{ tr si"sl.
l:.e roh, rd a d'ird (.'isrd n.p pe ips m
,ory $e ep dse 1o iorn a lap ope@ !m]I ro
thGe setr on some rzdi.e u4:hos (d Fis.
t) ln this sse (he lr.e irselr ramiix in postjon. It
rA knot.d tuhind otre d rhe Lonon hoLes. $6
dmadcd upwds od pres mrbLr, eas knod.d d

held the shoa v.ry tidd! on the ldi Th. sc.ond
.omdete aDhe shre n ndi.:ny didered i" mn
mh joined by jdeDli., sds n the $me posilon
oi bod, sidc ol the loot o.jg 231 There {as i
topbdd, a he.l stilieier ?Dd. rtinrorcmcnLp'ece
owibel,.ehoks,shichdehlgeddMgft'
'1he hoLes de ueven n number (lblec on one
sde, iou oi the o$d) rd scn io have been r
hEt palily de.ofttive, ror inpresions shos 6d
diey h,ve b.en puled od or rh.pe b! a snrll romd
|.&aL\eriheaboadthmg-pfubablyasDg|e
]..elkeadedupwdsinthemneri||lstdedin
The lere renaniig sho.s n Lhs soup de aLL or
types disdsed ekevhere rd meni odt bnei
onglmlly l:r.ned *irb a buckle. bd h seneDl
3 ;
; ,
;
t
; ;
;
i
;

:ppeu?n.e?ni unuri{D I n ..nrhbl!
n.il,rto r.ommonedy l5th.enlury trle (./,
ioi esnpla Fis 63) z alnion.enajnly shourd
nriejhoes $nh a rossle fanems. , iobllr..{
nrLe vhi.h reff k)hiFoniMrd iltrm.l
13$ .cntury ad beume in reNi.slt hshioi.ble
,i ns s.ond h3lr Tbe nion .omplete oI rhese
d[koftrhe{y|4!ldPgivmedf€lFriod
rpinNu,thedilNnaisr:{eiiis totl'oscol
rh.late medrrl. croups kofr r.f *es, s{:r
Lane (10
'f^ble
regin.Fd shoes; 3). Rlliosssr.
16 shoct Trig Lane (rTshoen rnd,-udgre (26
:bocs: Table'1) ilrnrare rrrese derdf 0med5
---4 L
<=-- ..-'
nyb n sertr kr, ror
ilimrle Ft :I) rh! rrll boot ..iiinfd to b.
T!du.ed, bur it seems thd $e l.v b.or or bn
rkl. shoe $brb{rsooooulreelier. ne.dl y
.lioeor![oe. Thn lad E .ot immedirtelr obriots
r shouLd be rtn€dLered rln E a'lJr:ho.s
iuntd in the former & xLhcr iLL or llie lo{
rggLe ranened type uia(ed jn Fjts :l-3
rb.reas rhose in the lrrq tre miinry ol lhe hlf
r4vsrins rype dennb.d abor€ (pp. 17 13 &
rrrE {s me mijor m dion in nmurador
rs ecbnique h the
e^rua., $cuseol?$out.ordsathedDsinside
: r{ ed3e ,o reiiorce ole ig nros add oihft
r.as ol pdeitial{c,knes (seetuther, pp 22,
n,. ,\hon \liihod e\.eption shles ol lk;ds
;nh i irn scam on the iider rde. but t aooeirs
:id no* ilEs {m murh sreds unifo.mjr! ir
:trdruhr, by iie avodmce of iresrhny sbaped
r+ns d Ihe sjdes :.d iniep 3nd ibar u.
:.nurt
This .oin.ided anrL a srat.r nse oi
.L15 f the l2rhrd edy 13th redqn.: rndn
m:!b.flBiihcsuppriesofiileno.krotheLondon
nErkd were ieorsdsed .onsidenbly d thn iime
& Tibles 3 nnd a sho'v fasl'ionsind'elate13$
ind.a y l4th.edones sere doniided by il'e
rosgle hnenjng (Fts ,9 3r) Ii is rena*rble
thd this $a &e ody Iype or tuneniu definirelt
33 ie&neied shoes. r'd the rgures ror Bilinss
3{e re broadLr.oF!n?[le (9 slioes *irl' lo]qrlcs
ind rEt 4 .ciaiDl! Ii{ened in.iotha 'va}, .{t

Tft Lue $ere is a
seakr mge or hdedis. but roggtas $in
accout ror vel .!er hril rhe ttpes e.orded.
Ther {ae trsd oi booh ud sboes rude in ?
vmeiy ol $yles. The simple*, hv.ri.bty a shoe
or mue+hoe .ut klow or oi the line oiih3 anlle.
hG a Dan oi identi€l raps, e(h *ih a 'buroi.
hole' foi hne.ing to a silsle los1e in $e cefte
The &st inu*nied exampte
(Fu. 29) is nde anurely in one pie.e - 6oud
rery oft€n (r'. ril. 31 and F1g. 36 nom a
subsequeii sioupl one of the fl,ps w6 made as a
sep,nre iised - md ihere n a Lois seni.ncuhr
ion&e {hi.h nG nght acro$ rhe vamp $rod io
provide ne$ iiy over ihe inieD *hite d $e
sme hme covems be op€i rcm b€hiM rhe
fl?ps. The rroii ot rhe shoe is atmo{ .onpletety
lod, ed onshany dere Ms a topbad sriiched to
alllne uppnetues exceor irle toigle rreroggte,
dso iov brsry. MUtd h,ve been tomed lion a
reather k.e {hose end *x tuled back on itse[
p66ed though a slr rd pulled righr; dre oder
end rA then thrsd-ad lnrolsh ihe p.rroraiioi in
the vamp rhroat dd ifuhed down otr rhe
l55i lolosiis svm) h.s tE.ed this pn.ti.e
werr dGned n edry noden times b4! into the
rTrh ceDbry bd io! deinirety inb $e medieEl
aj'ue sho6 nsi4 sltndy Nsher over the:.ue
(Fiss. 32-3). They reE very simih in stie;nd
.onshdiod to the shoes xlftad! desnbed, e\.
.ept trrar on the im.r side Fs m insen which
dmedasjnsle bftoiliole and ei$er one or rHo
iosres pasins $rorgh sloh ad sdched doM
oi the m'de. To dose rhe sho., ihe ltaps *ere
6rn ssred iidependen y to die rode on ihe
ts,r be tush{ Fns of dre i\hD (Fii 32r In
some .a*s $e etues ot &e laos yeE sre.s1h.
med w'u. .od; nomly uis ian aton! the iiside
sd(e and {m h3ld in pla.e bv a se.otrd. 6ner
dread stjrched doss ir kee ftniner p 5r dd
Fie 31r, bd oi one of,he 'nu.hred e$mDles
|Fls.IJJ nqemi lhd th€.ordnalr !x shhhci
lbroqh &e redher, b{ause tnere n ? rov or
shod bui brdad $irh impresiois tumiq in $e
on ai ha{ ode sh@ ol this iype ine lahp hA
been llashed rh{ugh viih a knife. -fhe toe oi ihe
illu*frtd exrmple hA b.etr sli.ed o( and r]]e
sl6hes, {hi.h hks $e lom oI etongated
lozeqes, seem onsbd] ro have been rmsed
rousHy D t{o brds doss the foot (Fia. 30).
This {A prob:bry done toi decontive or pra.ti.d
purposes, ro (ede r tum of opa sidd, but it
mighr posib! be .ompmd $iih &e proce$ or
ntuar deh.ement {hereby shoes are phed as a
gdod.lu.k offerins in the .hinney or dtic oI a nc{
bundiq. rn her discssidn of . simitarlr-stAbed
Itom rhe ^usiin Fna(,
l-ci.end, clare Allln (Menor& Fede 193t,
-

an emmple rom Inero su.din?!i?n York) Here
.i.dy up rhe mer sider on ihe.der:'dc $tr r
r.spodins sct of sloted uss {l'i.h 'v.re
.:{rudolerthctogg|esdihe|roiLollljoboot' arlea{200ra*,'*or.o*lderblesisiijidi.e
. :. mo{ .ohpleie eimple ol ttus rtDe (Ft 3,1) ' $e derelopmenr rl medje{l sho. hshion
.\r.ndLngtoihe tuLLheisl'rarih. &ont. lt ropeds shoe eros the iniep by meam 0l tso oovable
, I'ychdnotonee,bulvhereih.yn'eetdthe
rlp $c sides {ere ed3ed {ith Lirq naps. one
..n iLbeit id much Les exaggeuted tishioi l'4eidrtrn$iredtor,*e#g $i{ia*$.i^g.r
: : boot fom,D erkr dcpcr (Fig. l3J ?n1l mal Nilh lrces d tie side. Tossk hnened shoes ind
'.,. b.en rtnnded to bods oI L\s genecl rom i*Lejhoes appear to hare beer mrde in a cnge
drndren T[e sm:le* ii irF co]recrioi (Fis. 31) E
r?ni slarciis, not kan beause iL +ems to
:'. been iFlosible ro adjun the Lensth oi rhe ror$e and bpbind ?n insen {hj.h.anled the
. {lehgslo6ltheitrd'!'du,lroot.lnmoncAas rco0d bdtonhole is also mj$ing from the liner
.:.k ir susiye! c! bs n !o big thd the flxrs
jdh|Edcedtighilyotrthein*{md
:uns of fas@nirg shoes ihe roggle hffi r
-: srr iirelmjtkd I'isto4, d lca* in London clild s ste 3 The orher 6!ee !,F!ler solcs
' ,: i6r ?ppem on a hre sdotr :nue shoe in $e
?10?nd?46 mm (noden
::.le?l ukun coLLe,lidi (PritclHd lodh
_iis ,f lkccr*or 1982, Fig 72No.62710r

a

.
i
'*:'l_it_l
lroD Tac La. (6 r.rqi*c'.d shmt. the se.ond r
lron Dorsra (9 regsteied shoes) ad ue Lbnd r
truD cu{oF House (1r.$l.rod sr'o.s)
Th.,B:liJds.is!!. Asenl]L4eisolespe.h|
neier, Le-ur il sbo$ i tudh* n?ce inthe
delerq,Fed oi rhe reDdr fiFr d ni.prbed in
Flinsio.bersei.ontheoneh d,belordie
i:. :M .oihdin 10 those mrde in rhe edt
:lthtedu.y (./ Fts.20-23) b ir seems rhat
.,d urrDi,se,bre. The oiry akh.rrroe ot rhG
:ble l) ue ol similr drm.nsioN. The Ludgda
lrr booh.r xike{hoes Nnh dh€inns lrs
:rg5: n possible tht rhese {ere yeq old
,Dd, on $e od,er rtrLLbooc asi.g to ieftr mid
.:rriershi $hi.r, a:(rud for i ri(h Gee Table t.
Lor boos rhindi.s jun aboye the :nuc, so
!oLe! $rr nom r30 r!
245nn io leu1h. md ihe fou.omprere boor
lni! beisht {orLd b! $ibbre roflro* and oddoor
.fupatidr,wh!re]sll*s]iAnilbtltmue
rlcd irLes laned srjdnL) rrom one !1aa ro
rd, id n.o.d.n.e $i.h $e dem?nds ?od
':r/jrs ollhe ( inhdi(mG.
fte mid l.lrh cenrury (Fig 35)
_:: p$oJ i5 Fony rtpresenred b! 6nds fiom
:roo 'rhere is i0rr one rarse grotrp llom
: .i D. 5 cmfle , but iorlundel! ii n .x.epron
-; \et r.s.acd t4l
-rD' rldll siD.e rhe! tome ftum three qdo
. r:lisqDntdsiiesunbeeipeded to orovida
:iJ erl! 13rh enrurl rre
de.erdA Neurt rr lbe rhoes we f:*ened
id. Eoors *irh loggle lanemss ol ihe type
|i!e been glrn no loiger, lrcept b! yer:/ sn'
$tdren (.r: Fis. 33i, r'd d€sinlsr rqD 10
haF dieppe red codDLe,etr
Th6e ;Iern.es itum rhe B?tnads Cmtle

(
bei{eetr toggk.fsrening lor shoes and side
lacing for bmG tu ioi so prt.Ge: lmni borh
cusom H.'sc ud Dowaate, lor ex?Dpre, bcre
de lragnenury renrins 'i sidc laced shoes A
at .ll tliee sites, as d
'B?t!rds C?sde. tlE bAi. Jodns rc sinnld
rond neih.dofcoi*ndion vth.mdsean
oi rhc imer side ad Irom rhe soles i! s chd ihd
the oval roe shapc rehned io lashion.lier ih.
bner vope ol a nor. poi.ted siyLe d the end or
the 13th .enluci some ol the tossle rasered
shoes. in odnuLd,
roMded ioes but quite pronou.ed \r:idJ d llre
Table 5 sho$s Lrrat, d BaYruds CGde d
lea$. tr.d! rlliltr togsleJAcned shoes re ol
$e lwe sith r siigL. togg|e ni lha in(ep .,
singl;
'[ftonbo]e' oi &e [rp d erh side (he
fnrce|abolatcy*sjoi'wL$addnion.|ioggleSon
one oI the laps had avidlndt pssad Mion
.ofplelelt od ol lashion br thn dde. The sl'oes
an.a to ihoseofihe lare l3(h.eiiury, but one d
ihe inuinred evnples lFis 3ri) G mmu:l n thd
abole tbe oder {irb. saa at the heel A ropband
Hi,lmg $e rPFr ed*\ rd q?;nde m '".
A siFi6..nt deklopmert in the dsign or
r!!!le fan.i.J \ 4c;s;ho\nbJ trotu nles
b; Dowr*e rnd i{o hom E!/'r d' cstLe
1he fo* .omDlere ol thce is ilLtrstded (Fu.
37) odL) inc mer side n lhollr 0cseflcd, but
neds on borh sides ol the sboe {cre veo smlLd
Th€ im{ side ihell .onhins n iiseted sedioi
'md. up of three sran pie.es ol harhcr, one oI
{1tr.h hs ? 'bnonhole , .d and slthed io
ledrer in such ? n(y rhd the krge* p€ct [es
pitlr bebId the other tvo (Fig. 37; ./, Fig s5)
The purpose or thjs Ns to provide a vdenrght
diulea(hef oldedolbe to si\€ i roob
edse wheretr the {ront sedion is or sotrl sinde
si.knEs leather {l'i.h olfered. mu.h rougher
anish, irdisriisishrble rrom &e mderial !l rhe sei hehind , novable buto"ole'fla!. ed il
ulDcrifll Ttu. slro? \^ rppFn rJ m!!hu' d eiabLd the Jlap ihelJ ro be t.nsleiied lrom the
br Losna ror: ruuph.ewr iir hBl to ' top edse or the shoe to a position loser do*n ihe
side This in ttrm {ouLd probably have proyLded ,
mrjor grotrps oI incisions krt made n rhe um!, mu.n dshrer and nore .onronable 61. snce !'e
flaps Nould have acted 6 a continuous b.nd,
i..ome badry slo en or d.fomed cee belov. excndins lrod rhc mh ol de loot md '3h1
lhiLd lri.*mr$*r09ni'dd'esole equ,u
lenr h the iodar chird s i* 2 lalLo{Lng lor
shiik?se rr r0 pft.cn0. ?nd s i r0$ boothd

sh@\ Itun Lrn10, sits ||aa utu
g
33'39,40Erly]ddld{eitrq
ryles iornally lon by adulh (FE. 33) ln.on
dn{{nng ankLe shoe, hanns r horizonkl sean
!i de innep and : tianslar in*d ier &e bse
o dr. inn{ side Gl FiF. 2r & 23l but it {*
nnlded by rhree logsLes The bu&iholeJ rc
or diredlv in the llao on &e outer !de, rather
$an beiig on sepdde uss and the edge or ihe
rrao wd reiiJored either iith d appled band or,
more orobabLy. {ith plain dit.bins.
rhe nde hled booE m all ol sinihr relaave
Ilre! aie roqNy A klLr thel ft lons, ind plob
abLv re.ched about a third or the dnhn.e .. the
kn;e (Fiss. 39 .40). The upper were invan?b! or
trrap round rype (./ Fig 97), and on the 'nner
r.fl i]]esoletothebodompanolh.e holes this
*aE, shi.b held the vhole boot in sh.pe, fld
J$x s h,!e beei: pdeid:lpoini or weaki$5,
rd serer u i,s! !r orkn be +ei h€re lFia5
39 ,10) The onLy rddrtionalpje.e {A mrdt a
loig recbnsh insen $hnb exteidad the tull
heiqhr from the in$epi the honzonbl *am which
loinid it to the vamp *ould h,vs pmvided len
bllity d m abnpt chanse or ansle, snce most
b.os ol $k ryp. sem b have litted the loot quE
doselv and $e staighr vedM! se,n nav tuve
gilganther.igftrappeamnceo!e!ttresM
esDe.ialy sin.e tle bmi {s gene4lly a ltde
klier d $e liont th.i d $e brk. 0n ved l2rse
hoos a dip wA olten used to mse &e tdp ed8e,
ju* tr on b.o6 ol the lzth ard l3in cenrunes (./
Fig. 131, and oi one ekmple thcre s r ennre
$Er sedion shi.b en.nded the qu.nere ud
heishtened the boot by A nrh as 30 mn (Fis
40).T opbadsseenbhavebeenprovidedns.'
?bh, md lhe suniving ex.nplas re Lrir stips 0,
leather lolded double over the edge. Tl]e lace'
holes rcre Einlorced urh ledher fa.iigs on &e
inside (.1 Fig e7), bur rhe.e sere no eisnei
elei tlnrqh the holes leached dno* !o ih!
rund; resretably, the la.es dcmselves have
not remained ii place on ay of $e b..h in rhe
Th. 'Bayn.rds c*tle

0, ,Jr ro:. r srs.( r
d;de]!iih rrr B mrds ciiL! ririds
1: {n b. r.i ir.d Tirr ri 8,r\n.ds
.'dtiL
rkr: drrre:h!!: rNUn niun riEr
rrt.e rnNtl! bnaNd xturr rre iin.r
! rlr.r
5:r 1) bft Jtirns rP

. l r
il: 'il, L.l' .,"
;,,i,
;
.j
't:].I" ,"',. ',illl,, '*
'
.r,nf vm r Drnrrr cdL! lr: ligs ;f
26) N nrld b'.rd
,0.n.,.r '\,e d:ru lr r hrr slrghrLt
].nnr!1.| TiLl!! 5 md ll]
'lr drt.D en,,rt,:r,.d trdd, ofi.r Lon(oi!lF\
8i,i,wd, rtrtre s.Le,,\ r,rnN. ri,h ir
rniFr ri bDb o! r'liLe rxt' D N U Dr
1,. d(!n.i\e Dr deorll,!F{nrhl?scl: aq,r,l
. !J{LLLru'|trrrrvrlt nd drr vrflleNotrhe
. r!!h,'r b*irp:fti
: il,. Lonion !n)u|x tr
LeJtl)!th! haso l,rl.rrlr iod rhent.ntabu
rtd rirn.,n(4 nirthrbef.rnsDrsrlp6
Ioot L!iqrl,s ..ilenei h 1r,et ncdcn srrt !2
ide ri.ed bob {d rronr li.rd :hr* o' aMe
lftl d,. LDsen (Trb ! sr)
:i rl[ iorth fl thr 'Dr!n,,nr Ci{le \itr
]n{.iur.ajd LLL[tdifis (see bllN pp ll;
')
nL,nLe:. rorLd h:f. been ?r(trdeJ qrLr L! (h.
.hLLd.ar: shos hll(ur oronofic.d o.d: (.1
F,!, 3l ,. n ,ough. h Di(l'r bee$eded, tb.

A
(l
tl
n
l,l
0
0f
Fron
Lece
i
F.on
Latc
;
1 l
;
;
i
;
i
;

. rli 'Tibe 3t oc.sioia|| lhe Douih. L,i
,idtrrruuem JDdMs $rhA,+d;bisrb
t-
Fronl-
Laced
Side.
taced
Front -
Latchel
side -
Lalchot
Euckle
Latche
Toggle
-,
],
l,
l.
t3
,|'.
l,

ShN: t d ?ttu":
rioiai ,{,p.uoud
ad qudm sm sprdc
Fdhqr r, he ?b?idoned ror
mic joii.d bI !mone
prte. md thd n for ? very sni,n chird (!iq.
53) AnkLe shoes and booc, horerer, c.niiued
('fabGs 6 7) .id lere yery sinllr in {y!ng
{Figs.1217: i9,5r).',rhet were inydrbrr ol
exFpr ror one oI $. Larchct rypcs (the side.
alegadt .urre belo$ lhe rdkle o. rhe outer rde
hdlefihonbnt on the intr{. Fo'&nyenieile
rdioi {* the idditioi ol r tonee sin rtothd
']j|dt. rhs \us Nurry ${, rLoil jd{ me eds
(., Fig 93),,,dd uourd (r oL' hive m?de rtre
u00er nore $hrrroot bur $ourd h?!e prereDrd
the la.e IFm .hafing on tlre Lnnep. As d :ll
p.riods, dcmntion n a!. ntrre n t!{ me
errnple or opetr{ork demmiod - rb. quinen of
a Lov.li ditu GlE ricro{, F 30-r ind Fig
115.) - L{ Irofr BirDdds Ch e there m
(FLgs s0 slr below
so * io prored shoes LLr! rhey thd \Dden
&nnndio.rl deuis ,so th.y {de vntu:llt
iden..:l ihe! hzd no topband or heel.rtlnforce.
YinosIu6|hetrlsiDdderl.j'.kd$e
ledher from skt.hing md chdng d the weake$
poinc kt Fis. 10? l0'1). As TabLe 9 sho{s.
order d'irdren ard aduh. nnd b,udse rroo rhe
ud tu meirremeil. it saefrs rhI lMkhd sboes
senen oseceeberor!. pp 91 6)
-

Lr.liershoes ilirLir4eridulrs?$ Fron rhf il
L r abre 3r) xnd tlj. jid5r e\rmDles oi deonrioi
F;$ 50 5l) }e r5o aso.iardlrlit sbo.! ot
The adulr b!.kted sh.os \+i.h r. rtLun(rd
tsd|'l[t.ruLILdki6oftinPdilo^{hiim
r.Ld D pt?ce by tuldjng or.r ilr tedrr{ $np .i
ifh.b pAser oy{ rh. iinqr ir a s.rrr.
oi. srrc (Flg.12) tn oiLf: n.d!\j r{
i^!.r
xin<
Lrr orher. hs bEen dr do*i
lerh:os N l
b?reLy.ore( the ro.r i] Frgs ,t9 r)
one or
r onrt u sdon lrulanc_ (Fr! la) th. bjturded
ir d' rhe n desoondrrq Fir ot troL.s tr ,hide D oa!
( is 0a siste rhi.kiesr but
riedh.r
:dtrh rmr laidPr shG (r'is 16J n dt
rre,n..uFDc
'riou n. umJj I ihuesi
rirr md r ioin ihe yrnp ind qkr.n oi rhr
r fL , d.d dorrk lnLr ktrn ro!rLh.. rr dr!
r!e- Th€ eiLl i
.hed!ir
r reD?n: lllssen\r!! d h?!ebeen
juFlsiosthmugh
the hoLe iD iljg n'nf
oJ;
.on[.son 'rth d]e.y{?llsn. olr|t +re The
the i]lnnkd sd. h[h.l +oer eDml$ise
+i hsli f:s|ion *so.i,kd }nh $s nr[ iFj^
rs n) Al]redr {d!loi {rcs dr r;s m;d
!r Tric Lrrlhd snp nrlt\m mari:Ll! m:d.
rFnrery. rnd br:u\e ol tlje leigrh or rhe shoe
.:ie (r.rs. c9)r,is oneotrhe o0Fr.oolLrin.a Ln
one (F f.:0)is slighdr dnlFddrtre qm'lfls rd
:rdrhee.dorrre lu xine hs bc$.uloti Both
rnd zrc.( \h{c tu sf(r! hr rrc.n smp.d
lie,4reds re lrry difiird or {Fig 50J ir

en oped rhe \hoe ot th! lidedde ro the
dher rFLg n) i: dnided LJ jurdr'trnd\nba
*aes or dirl iedrsu.{ pine 5 retieEd oilr bf
upper. Thn rc.ounb lo. rhe nth{
nnusurl
ri.rydthelmd proviiingrfimer6tof{rlresh?pl.solthe quii{s
h thl5 ase belo{ bo$
Mr r.rlhe hr! h iefrrii li\ed.i..e sid!.rlhe
yrmpDpe0inFmd ro be rhrtaded rhroqh rrores n
torhose\om bidoeleihxdd
adulc.,hhors!
hdE b!5 pr.!rd.,r (d bero" ,id F,s 3n bd;
the ri.e ras I sinqrc nrroN *np ot Gith.r
rd!d, : toque \€: seNn edge to edse:lois d'e
ei,ggnde d poulaincJ l.t Table sb). Or re 19
..Dphleso|es'vl'nr|'eadfilfooile.!ihcanbe
eniFded n hs dai t70 nn (miomlr equn!
belongtobeLowihe{nkleshoes,6to,ikle dioes
:M ? to inddeniinde iyFs Eur 6 is eideir
diieied 10 the ere'r t|a alnos i"varobh lney
'flieie
\ere lanened bt l,.ios d rr'e ltu is,

thd /, dto,dM it, u00 har
single rront lithet shoe (Fi!. 47) {hi.h apperre
io h:ve been repaned d thc qudreG arrer it hrd
been {om bt r.brrd {ho wA plsed.hed md
pbose ioot ptrshed n abnomdl! outrurds Gee
107-3) - and: sqle shoe
tu$ened*ithabu.kle (Fig. 11). Thebuckie, now
nostl] ro$, h or re.d aloy rarher rra noi, bur in
!(e 0f rhe adrft lersiotrs. The nonrta.ed shfts
shoes discused above (.1 Figs. 5?-,1), althotrs[
none or lne suflrv;s e'imples seem ro hava bad
loi$es. one ol those ituinred (Fig 53) h
hL'iue Ln lrre Eesent cofe.bon n $ar ir is of on.
pie.e.on{rudiotr. The La.e, which G knoned at
erh end, pases froh ibole rhrcush rhe hotes on
r]le side wr,efe it h L*ened, not hom betow as
:E

rhe ie.oid illu$rtrred ex,i'ph lFig. i,ll hA a titry
Douhine {uffed Niih hi;
hi thn in*a..e the li.e is or the bild.ted
[.ds \rlrli re : sm:lkr d ud' L.s dn
lindile 0e1 d lcAl oI ie Balmds cArlr'
verysmallnmb*s (TibLe6)?0daredernrred jn
dftnbebr{p. 41),sin.etbeyanh.ipde?Lshion
0r ibe other t{o o,in
mdhods or ri+eiiis sde La.iig appean io h:!e
bes negii.rr! rls .otrtrioi ('f,bles 6 l) rid
ibe exrmples ol rhi: d& ue 50 slmllir ln cofr
htd tiiB
ei.ept i.sof:. d they may bzre
rlrd frcnth. ru *ens t.st to hale deveLoped is
:. nponani method ror l6tnios rkle+hoes
:M A wiib h.nt laced shoes, a modifiution oi rbe
li that prii.ipla {A :dopied.
'fhe illu*rtd ,ikLeilioe (Fis. 5s) rd rhc lo\r
bool (Fig 53) shde i slmllrr one rece \*aD
siound'con$ndion, \!irh r dglrd mrin seio on
rbe sr,oe had beei ^sembL?d bul rhe orhq n
mu.b 'nore s$*addr ,id n :D inreFiLDdt oithe
biturcded laichet rype hgs \r bl.h remrin ii kd 0.
tl'e md side: rhe bq!!, $hj.h ro\e i0lhe fun
[e4ht orllre 5hoe, {s seM edee ro edge:]o.s
rhis ide ilyi (Flg. 55). The fas?ms :nrye
the h.e hohs 0i the boor ths €i Le sean odLl
erenry soard. Tr,. s.:Id,jrd's nkh.shoe (Ft.
56) ad rhe .hLLd r [oor(Ft 57)rcrrmo$idetr
rainfoftmenb
oadnLLy suflilt
in ph.e kl !jg.

:he€&J}IslhGnh4!Ts'50|
,m hEd iks bom the tmdoi qderemr
Ercig rc h€ 0r blr or L\e Lrh csr6 and
lerc rcbd r
'Ihe
bre€ dlFsnr odrdon ot rhe
sm. ur bqe re r& rels mnprete ,hF. ihar
'r-'.;1
sefliq dr m,ny r.re at,e:d) r pi{slnough
rct ap,'endJ deltqde]J atuJ whe' 'n.;
iw,) uie d dre srouF ,om (vr Lde r
5Bm'y eekr hj th. ode^ and ^ bfn ^.
sds€d rp:Ekh I' r lts br rr i,\e snrl*t
,€rr hae udd md roar,ry oi,ehDnt.-.
s..s
be obq, LomTrBLim rsg trs*e*d
lhse ' tiltle perc€pdh djqsa n.oo
p.\ lor b€L$c€i rhe err,er ot rh€ ssd lde
qtui pftcded tr Gs "bde @.2B %) Tie
59F}lJ|5dend^betddafu'si&som
Fer rrt hd bdbn id. qai&d,r dE+
doq|[ME+N!s'ori@|lyn[direr9h.

Sid
L!tc
Iot
Xno
{ilh quite ex,sgeEtod pnulams I lo\r cu shoes
ou.'unb( akr. shols .Dd h(ns; a^d hrrheb
and bckles re lhe oilr linenins types derDit.Ly
a rarce ankre sboe $itr, , b:sgr" no$ $uned
pouraii. (Fq. 60) rr has m hpbiDd or heet-
,rhough mo$ {uf6'B w?s somerjmes
sin nsed r, gie ? mok eyen pn,ii e ,nd i o
md SNm LrDe brk ed orlarhe!finenql nres
'tr*op tu di ode side $ thr dher 'frrG lotrr ol
$as {onj as: s|jp otr ,||'e nd,] fit;gs' one of
ron, rbe orher .r r.dr a)o!, Nhi.h rc nlered
ttuougl' the rerher, re b?dtr .orcded brt fen
ro hlve beei omimenld
Dunq &e iseny or dMl Ien rh ahp*d
deporiloi or lhe hEr Ss?n Lde rnd '1 .ie hne
every kiid
60E{Lys6educd|e$elde
'Bric
Fro
Lac
Sid
lacl
Fro
Latc
; ;
'
B{c
Lrtc
;

::,- i.ed in pd bv a neN rlpe or:ll r.dher paren
.inrh.rEsugg.(cdkl bdo*. p. 101 x Figs.
:r3 10) {{e mr ron A ora^boes bui sifrpLf
I nirce js m?de lor the rzrge numb.r of uncff
oie, the side ]]ced
.:lkls srrr.rLoi (h({s re!.hiDs ?bonr i $nd ot
an.esty' :]bei| ii a les sbD{j,trdised |0F rDd
{iL\ slighr dileieoces ir con*rudio.. Tbe other.
i]]e fron!qHlns buckled ankre shoe or ro{ boo(.
$s an eniirel! neq slle
shouLd be resd.d A a repLa.eDEd lor dE ftonr
*hi.h n sh&d nii! Iedures ol deslsn iid cod
Bur it {m the re.bni.aL deleropmenb oi ihe
,onoo hshion) {m a nrk {hih hd a lons
Front -
Laced
Side'
Laced
Fronl -
Latchet
Side
Latche
Euckle
Latchet
llot
l''
l''
]'.
l'.
l'.
l',
l'.

(rrher so rhar the quae^
{ere hide n tro
the nroden seNe - ,id joined {ith a rrlcal
fanat rhc r,eeL(F35 67 ind 107) Thjs:dded
impona.. of tlf heer-
{ilietr{, F?kiis ( ?n ntesnl .onsh.tionaL
eremeni, ind mti.rpdcs 'I. (Dhisiiftted .on
nndion or ]?th cenu!- and hr{ shoes rt r
nobc.abl. rhd vheD &mpred nth 13rh aid
rr f.*u eady lsrh.
,!duw upen have be.n .ut up Ior subsequenr
reuse (..10 p.r.ent,.otriprld {ilh 20-45 per
.entinedieisroupsr.l, beroN, Table 16). z.d
mqor?dvancesDsoremudacrui!,rrhoushihe
elrends np{ads of.r lne in{ep (Fis 61). nn
ge*s rhat tr'e d'r'ses Nare hriq DLa.e d jus orh{ !?np has b! roys of tonBirudLmt iuiml
beiq deposiied. oae dv?n.e. *eoptifi.d b!
od}5ollbe359legl*{edsho.sfron'T4l-ne
and.one from S*an Lane,
sepmte nsob to ttu mrn,r "F run trra trddir,.i
sboe sore The
Dt a
i6oLelarsnin lidewN,idsrodmuih:Eadded
mNideiblyblhe.omlonolrheshoe Th.orlF.
adlaice {s the introduction 0I &e tlrn Nelr
melhod ot co.*nchoD (for ru[.r dr$us].D, see
74) ThG invoLved the
ove^aiLed the edse ol the shoe ad could b. swd
sedry rbe durabrrity or ire shore shoe aid irs
ms'ng be enp ro ftare z :lrghdy*epped,
rarher lrn nNided. pror'te (Fig 6e ResrerhbLr
liltle orlhG shoe suFres. but rlieie de kods
or i (np pAlng llrough i pe.fonrion d ibe
qmoihnd:l|'isJggen\i|rdi'hadab$le
I so ir NouLd be rhe .Dr!
.oiillr lo$ndiis
iun {ch r[oes ,nonl rhe jndividu?\ relrsered
[nds :] iorsh*lrialrnpsortum weLi t,rJ
ersiry ru..snned b! the doubte row ot nilch.
bores. Nere ro.a(ed in the bulk ndani $.hen
round sepmt.lr'. $e iower sohs m?r be di6.uu
ro drsrjnpish fton ren,nnde ,dumps it drey are
tuiie L s tjt.hed and Itom the boton conp..eis
or murllr?yer pattens Gee below, ras r3q-10Jjl
-J
Deconiion is spme oi London shoes of rhs
le.rfe ,D{i merLt*o* ot $e dna ([ig ]trid
Too Liure or rhe upp..sunrves ror.eruin re.on
shd'on, bur it see4s r ery rh il {n ? lor .ur
sr,o. wi j btr kLe or L{.ber tajeoine Disurlle
rou.hes eere somehoes added ro x shor It

!..n $orn bul rtrfar) ii th! fint hrLJ ot dr lsrtr
.amy (T.Lres r0-rr). r rhen odr by v4y
.o rr .hirdren t,t lrbk rr
Lupres dr$us.d abov. (!. 36 rflr F,s. 56).
\u.h oo,t popuh, :id d,{enD8 sisni[mndr o'ny
lrltL
aikLe.+oe rTibl* l0 11) r\! T,i|e 12
This srsgers rh{ il
iune.brldren pfthaps be-se orits esea.allr
sofaud,.s. si4te !te.e
ri hader ws suriLiedr (Fig 63), but moie olien
. ni,ll ins.d vrs requned b nise the inner side
L (s lun heuht (Figs 6.15) Therc s6 rqcncr:Iy
topband. The tonses
tudy strivile, ld rrr6e rhd do (.1 Fig n{) seen
to hale been rit.hed io one side ody or thc m)p
q*D;s; on the other lde {s probablr a ren
Iotement cord Th. bu.klc, whid, vas li{ed ti x
ledher tho.s, dd iis .oirespotrdrt nnp p6sed
dnoush sLo6 di lir,er sjde d rhe r.mp openjng
aid $ee se.urtd nsde Gee tunbcr, p. ?5) In
rheLile l4rh.e ury bu.kres had mady an beei of
rmed mn bd m$ rhcy *ort :rm.sl ts,r ,f
Lead ad noie otuneiut. sone {ere de.onted
wi$ baading r rhe etue. rnd spedrle,bu.ktes
tude thetr 6rn ?pperece G.. bcro{, pp. 7s 6
nrFt L r 0). rvhertas the chrrtuen s sdne shoes
*ld0mhzdmorcL\aasngl.bu.kle'dje:dtrli
lt6ion IA oIt.n prorided wn|': pair (Fig (jo
i\n unusuar i.arur. oa iltr R'led eximDle rs
rhd r dd nd liarr a ddrn'l1di3!e, bur inierd, to
edges or tu vanp .pe ! (q/ Fig.106), thert
vas e insen se{i iru+ h m,rke the shoe enrrely
eidosed aid {deoroof
oD, rre courd gather r iishdy over rrf [,nep wnh
)
.aa
"./

8rt rsrh{nbry bob, Ssb 1,3 Dd.
:l
69'dyr5m*furyalrlld€'s6leL3

shk: tnh Loda, :it5, tLn
u50
4 n,nher tJ F of b! rded fodqer, rtu rne :
o{ 000r hs 50 rrrblen tomd onlr h rhe dddf
:tr4 N.ne o h. aruiviq e. impr6 has d !,m
pere $F dr |re qppts dll.4n rr h:\e bem
rtro qu:dec ioiicd d rhe h{rhd Mdr 5\n
ftrnd 0n n3 $,ms m 4dre !d. LF{.;71
rie€ h€€r.{tflsqrd d i4b4d.
evrtuuy.oibued "a: dostr fllh ?dpc ^f th€frlnt "Mb
opems n 3i d dre innlp {d rhseafts o,J!
dong MP dge d irrr olkr de d Fp rmi
rddbrhe mssd.,:.hofrd {mc m;de rhe
..{ hmdbe bpofrhebod 4i srulrrke
nt dod 0rh\ sne E 'he prc\,.bnoIo,J! uie
nerrodrions ror ra{cmp
ni:ps d rr poini lh€re ,he rrm0 L
snrp I hm rh€ honrcd: bderedatrh.e\ "ndci
r.f quF to4 anlJe +c\ G!. 6rr h M, k
n''ng l . ,, ' mh - nd.:l h.uht but .;;
rmea.Fjotuqs \ mrarb,hordij€rllu.
tra.! Dmr tr q r0r 5arm hlrlebeei dF Do{
spr4
hnud n3 mora thr r0 pjFm die blh4r
,Nmrb.q4rdr
rr q,he) u+,aneied
mflbd ss: a rr. ii+n d dre m{s (f !.63r
,umondh.remiidcrsh4_: I ns r;ral
th rtrree pr. _ rno
o,e p€( qu?ners ed jnsen d rF tmit {E;
L!(eJ.*dbyylin4n!?hpl]rd'ean.ol
oF{ ! de,idn u, inj!!. \ h€F iireier",:
" 3 ib I h_F L' m bip. b.",{ rha .
ene( or ,.8n4 se b.or ,tsh!! r ure inkte
byEse mo.rtunrnin form.rrod\nrr Lrr?
tc'hob.T|esde!pm4l*rrn6fn{,<
Dveb@n: piii' if .4trc {etna_5 belrlf
I
fe deotr p. it3& F,s t5cr To udpe b, rh.
d:md€. n re prt.qr ote{rn rhi\ tre.
noh mry dJom bJ reo )u!ic lhrtdrei bu
dFrufw&eplodfrd'}Iuushodtheshoh
tra< {:be 12) The he'sh'!v,D.oild€nbj,
rrr riir hrdD rnf .ide {ed bods f rr"
yres.hdip.uM\ed roirpr?re &d mry n.o hn€
rh bcr Lsrhrd r6rh4dh_s. r $eLrri:;;.
meir!. m, as. $hlhftp^u j relA{reLt;l

I
Shoemaking andcobbling
I
tn n6t utbps .liht ph k4. n stu eaq { w^s4 t4tu,
bdk ttu srtg rl'ut 6 bw Nt, tb.
624 k 't rf Md it N4 sdttu^
'D,eE {ere seveiaLlong prdesks {hi.h had to
bc sonc thrcush bcrorc a shoeiEker .ou!d besin
buicher wlh hooves Id h.ns sln ilk.hgd, ,rhe
sklis were ihetr $Ahed, rin@d, hid lhe h?n
remoy.d .dd, lintly. {ere kDned (or tull
e.ounh oI the pro.es.
$lzman l9z3). lf,ather identf.ation lby tjlyN
Edweds of ir,e An.eii MoimeiG L,borabry),
whhh h,s bee dom m N6 si{y sh€s spimiq
the tull dde Rnse of the .ole.tion (Table 13), as
{e[ ?s le$ paise visua] rnd Iactile ffirion,
ii.desthdihele*A,ch&geintheiyp€sof
hides ukd for d,e upprs prob:hry d sore tift
rtrscrd .t .:rite hide. the
biised tvdds sheep/god
(.ord*ain) - alihouh ii should be nored tlut
Ed{rlds ndes in h* rcpon (1936) rhd tone .l
rhose de{nbed as sh€elgod nay h,ve beeu
de!, bui {e ae not yet atuii ol L\e dhsiosii.
pdien ol $e lafrel (.1 Reen 1972, 235 Lr
simibrnjes beiween sheep/gct ud deet. C.lJ
ltlhjlyusdiord5pu@f6:l]sco'c!a{]b
dslashlrpFFbb'o&tr(onlheh5ti4
n{p d Meq rn &nddd a nirdr G N|LE
bil(bfushadlJysndeds|]GIis@$bh
de5FilgaY46eF!3[desollbeLlshg
ru'ioAFtro'kls|Fshin&oo6evd|
rFen '& M.iderHq*bd (Nueeed, '5'h
I t
;
;
; i
.

:_
:
-
:
:
=
-
-:

eAi\' predon'inds amoic$ lne saopled uppec
oaNloit exanohs oI sheep/soat vere lound in
arr soups. Tosre rnd ra(het thoA+ *i ui
coftan4 {jth Goubitz s sqse$ion rhr lhese
verc norc rikery ro be sr,eep/god beftuse oI rhe
srensrh ,id fleribiriry or lhd tedh{ (o. coubrz,
pers. .omm.) Heel- ffenen kre both dll and
sheep/go*, the latel not ortUrring afier lhe nid
lrth cenrury. ^t lea{ t{o s[oes (Ft 13, t.te
mid 1,lrh..eirury) my
hrve had dllskii upp.6 md sheep or sodskitr
heel.stlffenen - rn indsin! .ommenb!- on a
.kuse in some ordimnces or i]je r-otrdo.
cordvaine^ conipany (dded 1303 Maider
1931 33 4) ihd eipre$ry torbade shoerokec
One theory thd hm been advanced lor the
change in the 6'!es or Intus trred is ihd rhe &lLds, btri, otr ihe other, nay have been the res'it
method of tuse had been chansed: bu! Roy oiade(e6e inthermuitolin'ponedcodsbn,
Tho,npsoi, hinslrabiier. betieyeslhdhnningor.ordMin from Spaln lollowiry.hexpulsion
re@ined hrsely un.h.ised tdm the Sdon thevoois'Iiglish
penod b the r6rh o.rith.entunes. dth bmes
n nny usnu Gr (thourqh srrppnu n vbarever eLse (he impoded.ord\ai. $th.:lfhide $hih ilFy
fl,e) thotrshr they ourd ser trwl) wi.h). The in dr€d a reddish coLour dlie S{ain, pec cofrn)
deased use oI calf may, on the one hand hr€
ductioi in rhe late l4&.entq olorsmsd dnves
of cdde !o rl'e London rolk.b rhis Mll hr€
ensEd a con$.nt sllply ol cadLe hides in ihe
city vhereas preiouslt the Loidoi shoem.kes
o(6be[Yhldedgdle$strkk5eev6ekI
(PhilipAinitaga,pere.com.) Thelsrh{entq
ma@n ii the preseii .olledion shows , de
ftaf both in the tumber oI uppers th:t have
been repaned Oabb r5) and h tbe nufrbei rhd
h,ve been deribeEtely cut op lor rcuf fl rble 16),
rads th* night be dhbutable to bete.qualjt
able 10 shoetukere rd mbbles.
The tmed hides oI pd, deer or call shjch hid
b-"en puchAed by the shoemakq sould be laid
number {ith the njllmuf {Abse. fhere r
eridence fom Ssedei dit dtring patens wefa
uscd to pide the knile thrcush the thi.knes of
ihe lea$er oune Swm, peB com) :lthough it
pedom rhe hsk teehand certniily rhe quotjty

.r rong mro$ tri,.lliig pieles thd hzre been
shoertmaied:ehrivdl.rn:istenr {iib dr. m: I
Leaving:ide ihe eden !lio. (Fir 3l). Nhjfh
.br a Nooded r.rm rtu fncdr: i qle ,Jrhe
:coi 1.r Fig rlt: for dlo.rmrte\ rron yo*.
+e IJ,.Ckeor 1932 114 5.nd Fjg il) Ttr
saLaft!r!fro. r,11 t nrrcr ituldtn! rnd iirch
rvslhotuDedngh'sdedt:ltrm|dtrDDe
rrrn!ho. Irrho,3h
l:*lis mgin $d fto! he nre edge Gee tur
trr{, Parl'rd tudh.rmins)
rr'ri riw +ri hd 'hr ir. rd upperjo;ed
nrdiiis a snrLL tnr nsk otrr ot t.dtr, ! a
buaei the rvo main eL.'nem (fis i3). ti rbe
d'ddre or ihe 15rh .. ! llt mdh ol .Dn
nnr.on {A irered \nh the i.rodudion or rh.
nD 'ydr rr ji F$rhre thd rhE onginftd rirr
;o1., 0. . uqi Gee
rid 20) rideedrrdi0:m* F$.dr r:i: rr.
bddrrs .onr$,itneE ohnLr .rrd nDDers to
drke $oes npry itu frie ,rrb{s ot itre .{t
k]no{edthe$holepr..l$Ihl eblrombmiig
rhe lndc r.nariisini sLingrbe nroerMrider
1931, ls-30). Desorc a setrrt, iheRi.e ro
eirs Ln t..hriquas rrl Fdres bei{e.tr om
Throush.trl rhe pen.d
th. r,me kompae r0r
rhluBh. F.om bffr n NouLd be L( x rrlt de
'dui'p to d,js. nrr rbe sboe h:d boer rumld.
ndi.r'6m rorhe soreor!pp.f(Fis i{J rD ihi!
kDin,onal*as. tuimr*(riirs mjlhr nL hrye
beei Ned 0i rl'e oulr sola (showi in fE. i.1) as
inde.d sflispfi rerb!dterr one 1'th.eniuq
afoh the Cjrv or Londor Bo]J SdriLlne (er
r/vired Ln 1936. ro. hre ior olb (rion h.'e)
FULLy dcrcroped rtrh.,y.rshoes ho*ey( sem

sradflesh nrt.hes, ln the n:iier or thc boron
unirs ol conportc soled pdrens Gee, tor
1930, 3 ad Fif 2 No
t7rr13/9, orobabty e'l! r6th.ertufy).
Tl'e ro$ impotr,ii *,m $s that ot rhe t.$ins
nesii. Fmc rhe sole to thc !p!.r Du6 (FiF.
72 3) The n le $?s arrhed r. lbe k*.d uppe
usns a etue/fl.sh slrh (F]$ 2 3), whi.h
o(er sain s|lr. or irre sole. subjed ro rhe mo{
ner.'l*o tkeirls {ere rob,bv Ned. fioles
sourd b€ made {ith ,n atr1 lFts 7rb) &d $ei the
thrsds, dosc end seem ro have been 4h.hed
h i bndk s drq Jr bd,. hF pi. €d
hro!3hh0m.|fusijesidesIJo!|!diqhlIJ
".utd
F3.7r :nd: +!rm,ks . \ tdrhel:nokrer
olth! r51h.enrury Gvrtrtr re36 5) vhi;hlns
bnslesc@1ofhnkD Il hA.ot beei po$tble
ro dentify thl $n.hiu md{i,t oi ihe ealier
shoes. butoi rhe lare l4rh{edr!^ shoes r vA
iound to be plied, *ded itix (F p;rh,rd. Deij.
.onh ). The {,xing.l rhe tkead 'nade!h; ioin
noe{*edgbl'ind3]some|tthdtbeupp.r
and sore herd ro&ther, erci r oi[ bne0y, Nh€r
Thc hsd,s,n4in
atso seied to echor
smrrer rebroren.ni pieres t. pbce. Tnanqutar
p,cc( or ierrrer sere *nn inio rlf rreer se.iror
p/ticlrady i. dE hisher toins oI too$ed. b
.ra-; rl *e.r Ih€!:add DpP i,h4e
n .nen ymed rlhendousty Gonrmt ror
cramrle, Figs. 93
lorer edg. or rlie rrirngte *?s serr inro ihe h$
,ns.magtr Mh FD/IEb (ii.lres dr .rher t{o
edcs lere ?icrrred to rhe fiesh rde of rhe uDDer
Nnn a sh:ltov bindins.jirch {hi.h dtd nor pene.
ra@ rhe full thi.kde* ot rhe tedher (ne 75).
rbe use or diis iir.tr on the heel*ifiei;. md
reDror.emeirs. E evidedr ftom the f$en.e ot:
slighdy $aloped edxe where the r]riead hA beeD
puned !e4 tighr L{e hole reintorenetu are
on de ealier side.Lmed
shoes oig! 39 90), and .lmon imli,btv on tha
ber vnFs Frg. 103r {! n rh€ lEe ;d Fr{
5r(hFd rtoihc 6i nsnrgn:id thei itnhed
n pb.e otr the uDer {irh bindiry{tilch:loig borh
a 6ne, sh:Ios ldse/flesh biidiig $itdr is
pr$eni on mtr:/ shoes riom $e eaLy/.id t2!b
(flun onkrdsrlongdreopeds?o'h€lopFr
]n.on e qVs lb' nly \ m!l\ h}r beei l! rein
iorce lbe edge (Nhcc.*or 1932 140) steras
ii oth{s it sefied io se.ur. , i.do{ nir
da
oI
t ih" !o@r \L\ rclhed rt5o sfc sm;Ll rerher of ropband,. Tbese toDba.ds. {trhh $ert
drolr sdse/flesh *ir.bes ! mn xpafr ?nJ 2 nn some.mesingle thi.kne$ 0.i9. 97) bui more
ft om rhe edqe of rhe learher The sh?norles oa o kr of rrr i $,her futdedolbe (Fss s9 90
the seam .onpled*idi rha eirem..loseie$ oi o1j*r|rJ\€cive'lmore[n+.rrTDsniler
the stircnes, nakes I untikety ihar rhese se.ms
.onhined a rand (see.bo!e) This trpe of se,.r
o(uE oi onlt a res e*nples, aid. since ii
o-m in the same Broups 6 shoes $ith ihe n re
conl€ntionar Frn/resh ri$ing mgin (.1 Fis. 6e i,r 6*rts d de sd$ ed $ {e ; sibh d
33), shourd prob.bLr be reFded s ransirioml
betveen rhe earrier $onged.'d the later sesi
hdnjons. Ar this time , gari/flesh lastu! haqi.
alsotendedro be on the sh:xow sida -.2 5 mm
rron rhe edge ot the teather with sman .ncular
.!trh€s r\eEging 6 nm !p!d 4 gfune\h
n rh on rhe upper medni thr 'h..€,m lortd be
deeper and $e ihreds thi.keri lado4 Nhi.h ?tso
facirihred rhe indusion or nids bet*een L\e
uppe Dd the sole.lr the llrh{enrury smtrps.
ex.mDres $ere norcd or sdrch.holes 3 nm :&Fs

rhe sboe. A third oprl.i, sugseied by tudndsoi
r19t9.l0t) |rhr 'h rit l, os 'ay luv! besl
sl'o. otr. .I dr r3'llrdtrn dr{rnq boo6
bItr rc.oded a .onhini^s lbe iemaiis.l$1[r
irv posibl! be 3 Linmg (Che Thorrs rrr
r.d', re md eloh.d 'do roiser co lnuor
$.5 r$ered ,!md rb.
emne .f.ufrreiefu. rr th! Lhiing mrp.
The lie
\ns r'0.11!
sltl)enedF/lleshmfgoilojhed]eT]r
rnd mr b:!e t{l itld repa;s Gee LeloN. p
39i..oiried of r heerx^d i'crtrr..id r\(.
j,ftdarttu Nrisr $rb ar edger0erh bu! se,h
:nd ihrn lfrhed olr (nor tb. sni:rr dlref o,
n r.hei oD .irher!de]. It ryA rhei runed nshr
sid. our rnd Ih. {{rqr irlqr Fr\t1- (rom
'fhe slde *amsjolnln!rhe +0e q{,er otei[(
eere*ose{nrNetbeshoeusinsideoul The
m:ii so:ms, nd iddo.d r Io{ Njor shoc pie.es.
l l
i l
nrei r$ i one-ple.e t;r r.uid wii[ io
addrtjons or major m0di6.ition: io t.onfr.dtrre
the faieoie. and me mjor fam d rhe lde
cL*bhe&lioDgdde
.diiq ldrem5 beaoe nLghd! i'ofe co'nplrcrcd
\rrh ihe jnrodudlo. ff (he to(gl. IidaiLig
,l
(p 43r , rhes. slde jolis {ers rulrcrablc, :nd I her
(Fs rr As 'vtrb i[e
LanngDI?'h[thEadsweFob?bLsed'

ovenapped seam {Fig. 73) ed a b t sem sx
mhicvcdby.UtMlrheed]qesoI$elaa$eronI
ansre (ric. 7e) ro obt,in a .roser fi 'rhesa sems
{k mff,ly sed bioin the ni; Pds.r ce
4per, bu. snaller pie.es, su.h 6 Ia.ings tl
Fi33 37,93) ortonses (,' Figs.91, r07) {ere
oJten {h.hed fith a binding seam (Fig 30) This
pos,bly trsiu a ieedra ,rher rhd .! awr ind
ALdoqh n {6 @sibre to make a drawsring
sboe kom one p'ece oI learher {Fig. 33) there
{0[e4oi{hm,ddiiio!:rfuighlwArearred
roon anrde shoe or lo{ booi (.t Fiss 23aid40).
The eianple sho{i ii Fig. 23 olleis 3 possible
expladiioi lor rhe suonslru .bsen.e of hner
bods Gee below. pp. ll3-9), additoml pieces,
ud.ould have beed e6ilr reused Fig 40 shox
a lo{ boo. b6ed round . one pie.e .uiq
extEhe'ght'Erendththgdtap'ms.thde
ee n o.! tuc edrqe/lesl' but sam joiin'c
Figs 39 :id 90 rep6ent some oI the edies
leisiom ol the side-lmed foot{er *hich, drh
edy/mid l5th.ertry sroes ar r.s L,m (4
Ft. 103) one ot them G u'usu?ly.u1. qirh both
seG .l lrce.holes in the quafteE (Iig. 39). Thera
hNins the lacins on a sepante inset (., Iis. e0),
srensrhei iha deas or ue shoe mo$ subjed io
{e&,id {e,kne$ Ms i' oblious impturemeni.
whikt some of the Lrler shoes *ir shov eviden.e
0r beng bmed on sinsre p'e.e ottins parens ({.
!is.9D, Fis. ros hA: septrma vafrp and q!.i.
res, urh a hrle re.Lisular imen covenq the
rrod oI rhe root and hking moi or the la.e hoks
down one side. The ra€ hores have fiirore.
ment pie.3s :rong ther tun kn&h, a iecessiry
pci ineir doseias ,id $e righhe$ wirh sb.h
rhe boot Ms evidenuy hced to 6t the werers
;hoes dDt oie sees shoemkeis besrnnins to

deliLest (as ooposed ro raidon) $eds to bk.
enhrt rossles or'bunodoles (F€5 9t 2) Th.
rej]fo(0etoig0{6Pdiuhi!olddb
rcns 10 h.ve beed a re$JoremeDt cord !l
nr.gihen the edser 'fhis i\ irrkcd b! a brord
desp dunncl *nddled b! liiel stithes, and a
!h.etom'B,ynds CFiLe. on {hif}' ihe ilirad
ra$ened shoes i rr'i.k iltraad or .ord ol rlns tlpe
{A oltm nrhedju( jiside iie dcr edrqe orthe
ieribillN A ihe shoe s?s beins pd o, (Fig 92) It
one pie.e .utiis p en {A zbandon.d ii r.wu
ol a t{o.ple.e shoe
rprdc qrde6. These bad rso min lo$ fli
bdt krN on.ith{ sde o,lhe r..r {nh th.
n,lDeDb e Latli.i or brtJc inps beld E phft
Nirh a but *an aid reLntorme .ord (Fjss
)

33 oGt@ dnrelns slic,fth Fid b
(dd/qdd r?rh4Nry, TlF be sds. d rhe qts.
h36ftdcd!i6'b'di4{tjd'd!ard
edlexrBr bub dbn. a sdl Ed4uL. id.rl,
.fu ri6 a e4e/&!r hd @, wddir6
tued de lnrui @ 1h 3ol! 0oG, 4hr! ade,
,rt !F, 0e,b !td. 4idr) E ynbrlr d4hr{id.d;

G{Yod r2rlr{.iuryr oie rictu vrp
aig]edcdgdlesh6d|eandde,deol
ssom.Pjecshc(edy/ddr,h.
eni4) vi'h u e4de$ hr s'n d rhe
(rusiad frd { edse/nsh bu( lam
snio slde (,., $o's sdth8 6! u

16 Nlah Fl or I eBd4,ir]}she (.a:t/nid
uib€tod, ritl' a bi'd4.dbh &is d. rF
edse&denge/dahbutsmdlhe!trordt
hot',ftelhc@igi'[yhidhofud-1ti4fu
iceddthesideofefuL'idrsdlEdryur'
iN.d d th. tk€t held h rLe V d €d!e/04h bln
3m'Tdmkb''.hj4rulcdaF.i'oddi'
Hjddr kbdllin tiiKiq), Th! sli !;de
(rrt) Bbo% r enb@dded @ *i!. seb r:3.

b'4.ru1!iiud]rcL{DlhcvihalijlcLudh!
slith,Th.qFIonpbEdfidain'gu{4rn
L
l
.r
/
I
,#
I
33 Dcesd3 a&r shoe Gnry u6 edqt

39 Sn .bed ur. d@ (at l3s-@bry).
Trelile.@fu'Bdi'3.bolk&tn!'aft
dh.]aRbrb'theq!8fu'IteEi9.
6iodi4..t'ttd4hod'edFdebfoh
Eibleldl oit ! r.2l sd@ ortu dDbd
(Ede 6@ di! stio, loldld dabk 3!d *.md dG
. bhdnedbi) t ltuhnld. sek 13,

eo sid.-la.e de she Gdv l3s mtql
adoush m&oFno dn tu. 3e d ot d'e eft
M,tstyLe$hshcisoE!;{erj!\debchobs
llr4dedddasiigl..ojn@WleAenotr'
@tollhe!4bed;ill$nEdsdht:3'

53
|\
$s
sr i4lAh@d lor drd*ne Gtd r3s
c6tur). nD dh rie is -M.n d m. tube rft'
r hiidiiFd, 3!d r riaubr dw, (!.tritr M
!d,s.tl.h€djolgiLAcdisnri!'!nd'n
: rnbhoL dd M bsd€ (d. Fa. 12) h di.!i.3
6!nth.o@!i4@,i4,Sd..
9:! Tordea.idd LT rfl!{ne oft $d'
tu), Ie !h. d.b,te*d @td!!'r.hd dq
th. .d& or 6. @&!tet!,nd tr. Vd b th! lab
ba*pud''gd!6hes'sgLlj'

oyn" ue lnp ed,. rrc @osdom;6
:r. rq 3r reF herdh pr&. qria bud;s 5u(;
dF!h$lb]nd4$tis!*|3

ilru
/\*
9,t Tqde.€*!d lhe Gnd Ln{.dql fiis
i !t[ h|sd o . litrd. dEitr rice. but fid k r
,ddidodal.o@od ( q!ft4 e6dia frm fi.
3@ d dE h..l i! a !@/!dh hd @ ndr'.r
€fu3t}u.dbylh!ovllF*nqorrhekd'.E'
rn .d3Bifl. h.a eulib rbi"dia{bbn and
rlED, rNiua tr d (o!ry' 3d *did ihshd).
A14ti4!h14!l,di6sdh|Eb
*ndodg e tublsrhof 6e €4 ft d (d.
Fi4 el) ie d3r;q8. Nd rE EF pi@ 6rdE sh
iidEr,id.lv.!'@d@el{6bl's.selel:3'

s'Idgl.69b.dgi@tgidud@)'mde
EoseB|evaD3!dqll:4'oI6emg5id.
o@o turoor d bbkehoru€ M';|x.
u!@sfubi d dE dtl de pI ift &;
DE hh @eEddd qi,i s rld4.dd. h;hb
or l 'oDbd' rhe bs H, nade 'n th;!
'o FnoiD 3wit4) rr{h uRi@du$:

r\
l! :)
\ i
t 1
\
fl
fl
fl
I)
e6 cdds bsd. bn mdb6t(fnl4rh+dis).
Tb.!E!i4hFrro!.dft601,!i6'died!:|
.&e/f.si bu @ Tnh B I rd $r'if
hd 4 tne hdqr@hbn se p bardE
6 !d. Tb€ boot l'ld r sidepin *. NoG
eoddourusti'dfd's.:1.1:3'

e? sd'bad bmi (nid r1d{ob4). rb ntu
rcPeoudlidea'ddec*@kfsdv.r
toied Eddy , rhe btep, FrA {i$ ai
ed3e/re,h bdt $u dd ea{r ffi a bbdb8*am.
rk r2c bh vde oriqiiany sftqered Ms a
niiJdcnor pise (Dissind, vhich ts dhdd
fuBhotheds6dsbidbsstithes'ThebPbod
36*s'bdasmlti4fub*{'iebs6&
m4b n Dv nistu. sere li.

t
((
$

s Frerhed sie (bid llrldns), d h
eope'cofutded4drfuq!i@Tiul
e d adu ddae &\o8,{.i s riq. es, ddr
9E d !u?i4br'@s d! hid ot fi. i.el hh
rhq ft {dr d e hdr 6d d0 ts 4 dds sid..
rn shc had ' shdc bc d a r4r auci.d drl
'hhdnq{.dbo'y@adeold!lup@es
0 U
99 Frdt-rdd 6pic trc &E l!rh{4br),
Th@ftbcjd[.3edsdbnd|o]!dtlelze
iok.'Allloqhth€qd.cad]4ew
.d6urupi66oflalj.l'ftqJfutlht!.
blcl'plonedftheeld'i.h'a!d!do|n.
F€wrs r4ia do. (Irs. s6). &:j. 1:3.

u#
10 Frcdhd:nldeshe 0n! 14nie!bd).
T!€ @tsr B oisii'ny iad! j! m liF (fo
sin'tu eriig-Ftu se nq, 16), hur die rhe tu
bhdgfty.ditnwhm&etlbbM'T}.
|,*niiJoMFbhdeiE'idei!
mi rave b.!n 'dded 4/t rr. erFc m3 b€ed ('| e
ftd{,!.34Dr d !h. o@ side @b.dr rr5) bur
etitmsjicldedd$eluh@oIth.de
vabiq3eh*!erauinbdon2jdo'the
@tird .dhcd' d s r mjdr &prn. Ile due
ffi !tr d3! Gd3e 'irh hiidqFdb! otr rh.
h*sieod''N@tlE':jrdhftbl.d'|abhd'

1o1 rrc hed &Hrsh@ (|ab !16.edq).
ntre i oe @h pke, ht a s@[ i*fr (oo]
mrsid q"s *wn in, Fnt vih bjnd 4{rithes
Firygj.Iblt*it.h.s'enekeuPdeheqhd6e
jhpesioosroud'eedesol$eunD'|ad'

14s.eiinry). TYlpd
oNrru.loi
lhd io4 s" "d3e,dde
'tuu' .+

(
sedlenglholbo|ibigdgs'aditysldhd
,te4deEdbybeidi4deeldoqatrdnithinet
-
-
-
=E
-
-
=
=
=
=.

r04 s,bo. vid sdernchd i^bids &r 1{iL
etu4' Tre hd6 & rLn by e c@6 ad
niirord srt! i ard rtu tdrd w siqiDie d
h pLe ffi n c&e/r!si bfti€n oirheii@
cdermols!1c!iol..ud'dql}.u@
.&e, d,. -diM or l biidnq*4n vhich d drc
h*plegcdsoEf4dIF&4ine*
{@ @b'bt dded aEg'iE 'nd, h€@!. rh4
.bnyrlq.r|l'6Eiii),r.md@d'@ml
bu. b e oricn'd pd oI dE e,T hq @
b!h@DltitdEdinblhdctt$tleside3futsd,P,de!tlesheh'dgpfteFd'sdH'
I

1os oiepiec dh*hc
(ary sd.etrhryl
lhed6elolco.lheshFi4akryesp:d.'sfuFj
tfu.opreftdnslDpiqMsn$.dil'bd

t6 o!!.pi!4 zln$be G'nt $$€bry)
lb!€dbyMh.tI.|'si'd]tr@,fudmb
ns. ms, derr d'n a.&elf!i hus @ nrha
fut'ldsdMg'.tr99*tlqtdEbsDh
5.uNiblI.r4@nq.st.l.hA!'ltle
id, td rboYe nE bsEq @h, 3ro' tur E
sho.hadrend.'saLB'

ro7
!@r (e!ny bd.e^ruB)
sl]'leE.'Thelolsomssev!tl
v4eBJdteft9IabDbod
[-l
t /
\-/

fl
ii
$
1
103 sile.Led td (edr rtudtry). Th
fup:d'fi.i!&*!trdeos|l'e@
fu"d$0ede/iBbhhe$dth'6\eq4ad
qlfu joiled ritr' 4 c&erlsh bdt *e. rlr
bel'ob Eiihft.mt (dsily losD w *vD ii
ri$hndi4sdbhodbothsns'NdlilE$rirr
.ftdtr'fudy{p'dd'bks'sd.1|3'

June s!a0n 09$rl ti.ei the inponri.e oldE
Dut 00 bu.kl* hmrsho!i lz2DdJiDuiq. r00i);
rd Ldhim & vdther$ rcTi)-33, i2rir The
FnL)',5,I.:djoihth.au{.tiirolll'.Pujjhtr
Comnrn\exrlh. bd rhis s i.r ro strJ lbr he'll
.d rhoe bLrkle\
d..omnk tr the bu.kles Lnris.ll0 espenrllt
ahemral $d tens (rry
Irb. r.n) Lndrmt. rl*t allrbe ht. l1th.eiiu[
'- -./
oltinning(Txbbr{J
snply not detded bI rlre m llflLre.hnlqF:
Naie arso ioud r rb.lsd, rdr{
groQs (6n
rhl5penod L! rar tli! rrio.rr/ *em to l':ve bpe.
or kid illr \irh noo iDs 12: c\r^|,Les) 1l'n!n
rlrough a sln r he[ to ftde : se.uF loop (ILg
edr,nd lsrh{rdu^ lu.lild nrc\ Thcy dc
ves similir The oDe iiru{nki io Fis r j
dnsn6 oI rn und{onled iediis'h p{e ol
end o, rhe nnp 'rrll I'r€ pased thmurqh : slir (.i
Z,Jri,id,a rbr Fnn s Pnt.hrdl
Tli. .ol!.iLm .onbins nedl! :10 sh.es dri {cre
h*on! /nd Sroii:1, A 'vel s a.lftoLoF.,i
somesoirhelruhnrf or.i'broid(cdshles oJ
\l:rr lboes do merted $ b.iis enblLlthcd
eirmoe5 iDois vbrb m those ol n!, iir
bnhops oI crndlrlrti, llub.n \rrlter(d lr0t)
zid hdmlid Ri.h tl r:11) rcMni.1933. Cd
Nos 16 ad 29) frt{rl!.tembiord.nsilrd
ten d rtr: n,lL.nrrd Nnh lj'ds bart
ivishLf enl,eln$d oi ft ronhneir )u1 ns

@ @ @
- .
Er
ffi@
.-:- d
@ @ m
RL.
q
tc?
I
dd6k brdtr q ft @deG ju{ betow L\e :itb.

..mp!i-, trr fn !d
+uq!eldkE48i|dcd*nF{rf]ed&.rol-
,,enb,! ,nkle!ho. Ln Li. nlh or e.nrf r$
i,or F m u<d h, dntr rh. srJ?d 0;,mdr bero{hede.orrh.rhnrr f.iry nor v{e sub
nr, Lh. 'hr!p .hr, hrflLJjs
.hlo|nlol|r,fu'il^
.lq]b!hi.'lnlhedge\bgd]€Iqhjreth
.\Fid4 rcdflr!tii
"Iefl
t jh"'In
l; mj\ ! hcrr Llred;.0
dltr jt
r.1
]m!
hr or flre
JJr
12'h
mI 'h{
! tu^ T a
amD L!6 |oll @;
!d\ ollLq
r.e"nedl!,Li
-;. rh! G;r
nfredJe|lb.i4'rrehenopli4onJik
6 7q ndeor Th.
nq ! 'n pdr.n rt'- L.nbelr.hu \hoe Dnrb
nrir rm!'t hN tron Lvndd \r. b rq rLf
rrnd dr r i
d:!A ,!um,h. ftrrolg 'hr q!i
r0rlr 4 !rrj
or rts,r4
Id {t!. +u
Iz ) ie.lmek |rfrqleqA ^|btrldM?|i; Jl!..Jbiuq]r.lrdm!.Ju!(Urvn]||10!rd
mrp.nr4berrm Biting.sre Fs rl, An .edrB depos$ (Fis rLz. sr As : conse
rn. sfM hc uL hets{trerr,her{hl€ ihe,hoe
ho",h€ e Jk tuoro$! ! ie nbd rhre.t dsn rhsydprrr,rt;.
rieh sohe olrhe stir.ries
spred
reiuin
3 nr
inrad
aDid
Tbee
m
F*edo. rhe shoe frcn s,qn Lrne.I de.ob
Lre rtu€d rqs ne( swi lrom side ro stde 0;*
irihrclrh heh $ bu
rhe
Fsreruhr
4rhd
i,ne;r!h€
rlroi
calrng uirue {hin:M $outd h.!e rlibmered
hf. rurrcL\,,rr{
Ii€{lhPmp]old
A{'i|d||Iei]rudoid€|nl.i'lobeveom
r$^ r{dnpr \hoe. tmm Lhe ihbe\ atrlrddF
Dus
or rhe
o
rb4d
he \tiid
cmi.s
ur\litlharen,
usibG
$nh
m i& $rJ,c
une
{tiL
harft
. agoid inpes 3lo{ thc siis A ven A d4n
-ntrh;
[ine rrrrs
o h" ,"
Th€ ! iHendnr.rerjr
inpes{ekimbrordekdr
n?-n,
\irk. rh. be* re.en.d
r\imr.-r
a.d !'e
o' \eitr{of!
F.s.i.e of rooi{.} qdr h.\najhr...hD6ol
simihr {..)p

:g
-€
oar & corn*ei lri Gl es: yaip nnps
s6F$*|igh]'.soEdi.loricigfMscje
l14)i ro$er, ton Swan Line, lras red and white
M I =-
:.q+ =
'B Ph..h,h.
shoes from Be4e0. Nosay has : iurber oI
nore elabociely embroidered shoes and rhese
show rhd dirfernr bro.ks or.orour veie some
tines preseit dong a single nripe (Inge. R.
Pedenei hd Ane L.Gen, pers. com.). The
reFdotre oI nitches ,]so emb€.ed d.ss.$jt.h
and *tu sbrch. Irus &e tul nnge of pdrems on
the Lddon shoe sn odr be .oijeduftd in iev
or the decay of ho$ ot rhe embrcidery rhread.
The iechniqF ofdrii-$irh i:lls inro a dtesory
ol enbmidery knoM ffi onym work, sonetims
.aned,r'a 4r,rz,r' in rhe 13th cenrury be
ase I wtu a FNlar nsm ol desndns
cushions (chn{te 1933, 33). a.ushjoi rrom rhe
gove oI d.hbishop Nauer de Gny (d [t5),
who wx! r re&nt or Engrad dunry rne minonry
ol Henq u, *tr couched in cord dread on a
sround {orked n plaii sotch iid tros{tirch
(King 1971, 129), {hire the p4tefr of rhe dshion
lion the sped&ulir bmb ot Femando de la
cerda (d. 1275), in 6e mausoreum oiihe cdrirm
roy:l famiLy d the mmeni or Las HFIgA in
entnely in ptiit{rikh
(c6me7[Ioreno 1946, 36, Ph. d.iii-.rxiv). The
d.le of u.nbishop Hubed walter is an edier
embroidery n praii,siihh btri rike rhe de Gny
.ushion it n in a fr.snenkiy .ondjtion since ihe
.av*rlike hdenal used lor rhe roundation h:s
(ctuistie 1933, 50, Cat. No. 1&. Tne L.ndon
shoes mde rron redher, a nore res ied mtenal
L5!n.dEs, tnus ei,bre a Fp ro be 6led in $e
tunon.ar re.ord of this foh or embroidery, iidi.
stins thai ir vtr nounshing on a coNide{bte
sde 'n be lzth century a *€ll as in su(eeding
ye.is. The lide exrd or rha pacrice cm per
broidered shoes, ,rbeit matnlr ta.L4r in any
sewing thread have been eravated in Encl,nd in
Durham York, Lin.oln, coEitry, OxJord,
wo(e*er, cro&asrer .nd wincheder.
AJter embroideed yamp fipes, rhis is rhe hon
connon rom of de.ontion on the sbo6 in rhe
.olle.tion. Al 6e upF^ virh this son or de.ora
il.i tuy be seen in Iirqs. 115 11? The de.oE
rion seems to have b.en sfieded afiei rh3 shoe
p'e.es had been cul out aid tdore &e sh@ *xs
$itd'ed rocether 'fhe {ork s*ms ro have be.n
doie fleehand, {ithout the ssisbn.e ol gllde
fith some sod ol .uttiq
pden.}lthoqhsonciimeslhedasignscoddb€
.ombined $rr sed skil dd efed, mosdy tne
shmos {ere i,npressd in $r4hi tines, cdetuly
spmed ro miiinj* the possibility ol reas be.
The edtst evmple, Ft. l1sa, dares ro the
ft* baLI of rhe r3th .entnrr. conpded pirh lakr
eximpres, the {o.k *cm vary &trijous,*.irh a
v,nett or 4 snd roffs ,ven8id8 3 by 2 mm
-
:-
-
-
:
=
-
:
-
=
=
-=
=-

lhe !,rrme or Ft
rlbp i!, ir,€ lluseun.r Loddoi .oLL.diiJn(r\lor_
1674) *hi.h afu/Lly !0mbin6 opeNork snh
cnsaecd hrice {ork)
Frsio viftor mvLrcsLlar.dFs Trp dFniqs
eeLyimid L3d, tdu!.. sroe i i.ding ihd $e
rnestr:rlhtLynoi.dE\dqedi l iarq.ad
ur rr,c sr,oadkeD rr.e mort tanJrrt sntr die
limihrj.Ds lmFrd br thn iyo. otdelondon
dosery spred The snitkr moirs $Li.h re
mor {idet !,,ft{i, bord rhe shao. ot rltr ii.
b\rured(he {rhqro*rerchrddsrorthffe
Tlre shoe r Fre. n5. r* $drsr ,6 lbe
qn?rten oiry ths rine de.oiled \i1b elongdcd
4
&
w r&

b€en plred venj.ally d 6e lwow eqes to u]
tbe spre fore evedy. As in $e oiner exanrDles,
theie is no iidietion ollhe use orsudelnes. The
shoes ii Fu!. 117, b oiiy h.ye opeo{ort
deoErion einmins $en bw.4r vmp L\r@ts.
Fis. ii7: h:sRooi.enrri. to*sof o!,tpdon.
ho6, vhisr 11?b ha fou prns ot lons iam,
The hs exmpre b $is sedion (Fis. x6d is
:lso rhe 6nen, ad is refiiisent oitbe fne open.
work ,tecomrioi oi lhe sh@s depicted h a paiit.
ing bon sr. sbphei\ chaFl, wesl,Thster (FL.
ns). The p.tten k both .ompfsbd od liasit€.
T],e strrt ce ot ihe v,mp n divided ine ,zm{d
dd pjder panels by the ditreent rotiG dd con
biiatioft oI mbls The widest ro{s ft 6lmd
by semred lozenses edsed {ior plain riusuta!
sraps. Besids dlese aft naaof rmverse ross
of snall dosesL $ well as *ids pmeh of dte.-
mrios ri:nstes. The sbmps h,rc been @e6rly
md.rosely spa@d -4 m apd buritnprcb
able that $e ?Ieaating nmow b*s of smans
sbmps heb fte {jds pdels rer.in then shap..
sde hftd $tr Garry 13d cetu$ for E@6rru.dm
$e Fig. ,9. Fhsh sid. (iisideJ $oh. rhe isd b
bk'bopsiBl{e|iohsisdsbg'fu.em
tr'..::i:
cnb sid. (dcder. r aurt{s dbrrde dhri€r
ra$4cd shoe (]ft !$.adury). cai Me. $&
FE'S
/"::tEiqEzzi
_""--;#:;;::g

F4ord n.h $oe d !tumu ryF cdrdd
1nn
iz?!3P3;t

Tbe fngiri!.f nrch {ork is dtei.d t,, rhe:tr
wd or rhis !"mp in sc$ t oie.es $irh sone,J
the rcauPr iom b{\reen o.c opentng rhe "d
rig rtga, drkble to rhe lah r.tih.eituo r
r\eEd qrh shaLLowLf r'ld. clo$Lf sD:.ed
rfti.c No.k. rhe p.ners or io. sd deordj;i {e
s4e4ed by phjD nrips edsed b! o?m$ ines
'tr.re rhe r(rrer surhe hs been $rap€d bak
F'met.hoih5r]mgilflbi]|Ut|'F
^rlhe d\s un in.d" th! ., ru n{e^
.rrc.d ro rbe cryined de.onrjon (Mrh a bh,nr
rNnftdr 'rirr tr,rs so pop*ron orher forms
or Lerrenork (cN&ll. d. Nrdqerd & cnfltrlB
1937, 40 and 13) Thc ji.jjed \ork Nh;h h!
b.ei .e.orded 0n ledtE srrrbrd\ ot rhe enr
peno'r is fam! .nd. f re dron b rhe NOiL od rhis
shoe dlNdr it {iI be not.d rhd rhe lDes $ed
:\
N,,
)
t]r]nllllN.dlol
sdbtud ard rhN req#ed a sfar. de*4 of
colL..ri.D s hcli de de.on r-ad tn this vi y;r d,p
d ihe rqnh side oa rha redber b rac
: dffert*
n:bLltrds rr.,i ,Baytrrds cfnk. or I sligtrdr
srrjer dac ie.0,Ao@$dbha ilit,
cedrry (c.\rgin, de Neeqard & cd6ths 1937
4r) tu ir {A tror Dosibteb rhose rr,rrs h
der.n.De {hdher rhe toaat difterei.e vd i. rad
rh. rttuLr oa $rpiis brk ihe sd:e. or otb
s(nqabolimpL.m. bnefl! or rhe learhor 11
r{r
trhFr d! te,Lrr.! h:. b.ei oleLt L^r
osor, Dnor o rhc dr.ler jnosoi ol rhe htrrt
ArF IhE.llk mder edst0s yns N{e or btk

lt

ft
Ll.r,isbeeid$rt{edN$"rsdu,q The nes
pre$ r on * qrher':rl'crdn L! the shzrp
nor : rrii\ i5 etucd by rs! 0 dh rins and b), rltree
dshhei fbol.. Th! {rres d .rh side have
rD4i?rcd dors ihe sLoo'trs hms. \irh linet! ?r
8'red pm e tnes scr.rs $ ,i uler tor thr
r.D rgemprrsp:.e(s?.Fig t2L.ddrlt,fhe

0
Fig l2ld h?s been de.onted aith a.oi$in
on slmmetn.dh.prr.ed rhrterealdesigns qhi.h
niii ee6 ot de.oiation
bsedonade{gnorsrfrrrehn.eohieterts the
muling our oI de.oDtive mas in advan.e is
outidr bire tlblei
deLideted Nnb eigrljig,
il*!bdst?entD*ingb:ckgdidOlo['
Tbe shoc in Frs.
gnled, i. $ould hir been po$ibLe to rdjun rhe
liia.I dre birder b fir rhe leaftip, nther thzD
:ltrio{ geooetniN
ibnid

l1o$ rrom lnnl al difleEni stras {A ex
nmned. :id n is .Gr rhd one spr.ias, ?rdifu,r
l4dl4.4ld{'\bjr?'t|remo.tP'ruI'bFrc
ibtrds or rrre nmpl.s 123 er:o et tr n : pio,
'!ry5mir FprnG! krve. $ hnh n at€ r!pnis
rd dezl ror !.e ,.: r,r lFs t22 ld I r
rour,r have, besrdes. sisili.er :bs.beot pro
pen'cs tr poleirnny duabre dinbure ror rlE
nu6is of i shoe ody ts. oiher noses,
Rhliniu&bhf tnqtdn5
n^rrot, o(uf ii :i!- DunbeE (rj:M 7 eimples
iesp{bfln. rhey hde Ethc'$jfi, si.r rems
rooscry b rh. soil, and genenny soN in .onsider,
eten$r or rued NoodLand
don.dcd oo neurrtto bsn soG ln oedicvrl

'i:;,ia,;i
i:iJ;;;
:"r;'t,'itl,ii**ry
ffi
1 ; i:i:::i;;,#r; :i:;,1;
:;qil1;i;ii,:'
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U-i:1*;;t
it*:1:fr5f]r:*r,:ffi
tri$ftil$ud',
:,;
i

Sha: uut Pdtt^
ihe fttreoad orrt..r^, k Hmpo$rble h deF
tit eith .aitairr' a! shoes h rr'c .oLlc.ton thd
.Lsrcn or iiLhes:lotrg the linios'trrsiN ol
soLes 0f the irp. ibat shoLrld 4!ded:i be tun
bded odr t! .obbler. These thLmDs '. rtrrk
inesula y shrped ieles oI hr$er rnd rere
dM.hed vtrL tunneLjtilchins (Iig 123) NoF
srflxltogeiher(FLss 91,93)bulmo&otetrr'c
,ir evdeme rhir a dn has been douled s
prolidld by nith mdks. a$er on rhe soLe (Fl3
33i or Lo{ dou on the uDDer (fla\. s,l 106). As
:;.'
irrt orviers l,elorc tlry rtre 6n:lh disardcd
Equxiry *.king rr rha kry ro,! !4oirion 1l4s
rad 10 ler.en() in tlie latc l4llte ury stir,ls
cisd.'qrouD sji.e, theoreiiftl\ at lcmi
thisSbN|djfplylhd'h.lolmrdFdsdhe
n6h+ dn.nhd Ln ihe iile!.ouid xttud r.{
Derhxrs,bdd,eyhidrlienr.panedbf rdediied
.ord{;ds. rlm agrid Gee above. r 23) k
mjghl{eshtthdlhrsepoJtieFeacm
seeh to l,ave been r.p,n.d 0rb1e 15) o(d'on'
ally, addiri.ial *ii.h ii$resions s,gs€s dDt a
tvoe ofteDiir is : Dd.h seNn in on the 'nside or ntr
5i;e {i&bi iisjrii.h (i. the 'idmer olr heel
stitientr or lr.e lmle ianloi.ened) to corer I
Nornneaorbole. o.e orthecleuer 4amplesol
rlns is sboM n Fig. 10r, here 610 su-e$"e
iltr side ;fr, Fd@s dtr die slrce b?d srlir
4:n Reoans or rltrs |rd seen iot ro ba'e been
siLLhire \rorn ihroqgh lois betort the Dpp.n
-i ;r \qe dri r ddw{d dd rresh \ft '

Pattens
Jr"lr';Xii,T,,ilJi,.:iJ:J;.i:Ti:l,,il;
'flil',;:..i 1 :' l:"ili::* i:,JlJl:,"i,.::: ;"; i
ffi#nffi
x",i+::liii:,i;'i,jl l,1l
, P l ! D q l g s ] ! . 3 9 ! ! j I J L h e s
::-iJr,lrr rl'lr':l*llT:fi:
jrri:iT:li1i;i,:.'i[".r,,1:
T
r-riillr l
ffi
iliilfirrj[f]#l,[
ffi

ms, mdo trom t{o p r€s or Gdhefj#ed d rhe
citie aid dc.o'r,"d {irli idnpal itortb. bur
ioo. D eN or rhb dd! rer pr.lidcdr h ro.
Bnds thd {rte iijL j:bL! rFrs: 123 13rr.TlN
h."!byrh
' !hm ro i,r Th_",rrph,;
Jsl'e|J t rhe'Jc\rrrnn^]' iJ
'rlli[!i
rded D Fr3s. 126 i br ro&in! rrori on. radle
,r ro^s r!aFs m;r
Nrs rreb:Ll! s rbd ther srtd b. \sn bde
ur s.3 r?drd.Lan.LTih, rr ll, !,.\
$e nhrd €FT.'s4 H!u_e-\fLpr! hiu
J. 'e;lpeJfromorehlo4! str!d!$ i ,.,
tr hrch oir rhe grouid diE rri. yd ir is trrh
mor di!(rLf ritrhed r ro jldre n m lhe
$Lqor!haFenfldcdotoa].rypou|#e't.
ro!.d,ar ThE ]!i hzrr rltoftdihe od,qL roaoi
d fh var .p
w,ri$,poDhr. nar h:* h?d a c.opleta ledhcf
sdem@! rsrs lb. tFetmdroFFn hd * '
tunse md r lbe eme tinr, b n:ke r bqe

F-@*
l;"/
123 Pzb t-4ldr (bjdr'r. r4i'+dq). Tn
I.:s.rsu@!md4hkfuiddklm
oflldvldaocEdrit]'.Ed.Fid€d56Pe
(mrr.n N h dd.d lh*): !'.F vr robrbry D
bidiis d ii! .deJ, haup i\. 'Eils ck:rt Fg
@! dr srldida (l])4M It. 1zr. Ttu
hsbt4 *s eft*d si@t lirl a Lon ia[. soL

u7 1/.rO er@den Frh! (ddrte !6 .sb4r.
oon s! 5lnfrebaj pisrs toid , 6c c(e (ore

sm]x {ere oroded fo. rhe tu* tim. Th. rr4.
d redber one oI $ln.h is no{ n0nl! b$
sevn ioscder ions rhe .dges Lrilh : bDdi4
To protcd rlr ledh{ from duftr! uid{ thc .ar
Dicp a.d rlm ta*ened \rnh: bu.h., as o, i
BoyJ Schoolsite litr rs36 roo larc ro be;dudei
Hiryed {oodei D.trens $rh 1l,r !o es.oniinued
robe {on' the6i{hrtofttf151h.e ury Trje
rype Dred .i wedsG is vo,isingty able.t trom
borh r.3 Lme and swa Lae, thd]lh ns en
porary 'nun Etions and { Niying llahrles in ihe
e*abr(hed .onedions 0Irtre }rusam.r t_oiiii
(& belov, p. nO Eadr lsitr &nbry pdr..s
hd exrlr.el! Misted sotas ind nthor btu^1
:
4t

--.'{"i
t:t''
ttro]ghut'dtr(dh}!d.il.,i(${ll]"ldj.
.t
z.l
li
lrrerree mirheroe(!igs
Nlr rlre broad brds.onmoi r llD r4rh anrun
n r:l siniLd b thr:e lsei $ith the contem
pd;dlerhd niredpdtensGe.bdo{r.adi[e
0a flE r.or xid rt hre dufd les iE$ oyer
:'
rdge orth.:oh behiid rh. ixirh?,ds 0de(ed
rl
t.d r! Ro\em(nlc. vhorc.mlllons k {,.
miNd m Tabb ri T[sshoNslli]r i|!r liom
the b.dr i:4tun detrioNd.rhde. jun N,
Foupr rP definile r Feseir dd{ (.r,6 s )
:id (o,,r! orrhr i.rrilt srrnrftl TLr hrn ir
r Mer rrorlr rLoq rj,rn {.) ind p.d' O,l(llJ

;
sp r bul th. ceiem oDnot be diirflhhed an
aron.iny Ahe. n sofr ed tishr, *1,i a smoorh
F! tht s easity sorked Resitienrnd c!_
rehdy duuble whe. wr, it h6 bccn rhe
h\olrEma.rrforlros mikfs I F4t:id rirhr
up,orcrFsei,dI 0rleonlqr :).rimodem
soe\ rclstor rhln ih, {md n sbll sFfl ro
P,vehojodryou'Jdl]rtf,'olomoereth<
dj ;init shrinkre b.tr
o!.u red A 'mrrr meiloLl ! as probib !;sed rn
'.tred trdm rhe duiErjn ii rhe MendejHo!y
m8h tr $ ' rbre rorpr Fn m!Mc.srr a/ia4d
,,r! 'uer,i re igrr,{ergj rd riush, hrh l
re!n,n!e ro sprirenr]t. \/rtr0uah nor seier:x!
an rnd€ $q uil hi:lndr dehtuFlj tr
mor. re.endy to nake paddtes ror rdeRheel\
ed {eaneft. P't,r6 'id, now fai.t, rre bur
'\.:7
:1

red eitensirelr by medievd r,|trnetr is hrd
bd penshibLe Yet mther
rhe |reseii iieds rc ol asp.r, ,,r ,J iu,,ra
In moden Fiai& n hd Leetr usad lor sabds, bui
Ln medield Englind il \6 !H 6{ aLly r.r,iLiiad
Law ol 1416 (,!,'l, , ...1. The puDose or ihrs
lor nd{a arc{s add to lreen (be pnce or,rows
doM, sin.e l*l the bundred-slrir|;s jire lelied .i
F]ethe6N{|lyfifr!P|ater'n14615.
roker $ho dained !tu Asp tinb{ be i[e ben
and lthti Tjmber, rh{eor h m.re Pdie :id
is iot:p! sufi.ient, ior codreilento be mide
j^h (rFoNshilb)(r t.l! t.9
hlde ind on m.t kte r4tb .entury pat.ns mr
ofdoubreihi.\nes(Figs.123 9) The two pFcA
resh fa.es togdhe id sonedhes, i rhtn teilher
edris tr sive 3 re\s D3sed ipF{ince rn the
tor embellishned Nerl!:ll.rdri some decoc
rior r,otr4erJ3r,1. one (Fi3123)hA,nrm{
\ertj.rl *noe. on.e piin(ed in bdlliint Ed. fh.
p,@ed n:ed \A lermnrn Gentified by s.
Dmar. Britsh ilu:eum) nlnch {s v.l kioLvtr
60,diEmopsdi
i liirdri!fu'
(o:
pnndoaLoLe orrhe Nblnerury
othes hiye
(frs r2l :nd .B:!iids c$de (nor iihncrd),
I

rnidenij.:r,l.oyerfiomlpdren Themotitibex,
.onssMt or tour r4cr pdets beseer pj6 or
sdh. peids, vas :pp& ty nadc wiill x siryle
pun hdrnp!dr rin,i m for4!eprnrhredpcs
bm,; o!d,!
The third,omped tl@ert (Fa
or wxvredsed squres, btrr it is roo mrn rd dis.
fte mon &,nmon mees ot de.oftion s4 by
sbkhine, bn sii.e ler ot rhe drreds h?!e su!
nved tr is i.r.enain ho$ the se.ms motd h've
looked o4in:nv. it is p.$ibte rbd 3 sinple
nmig.sbrh {A used bu. nore Drobabb 6d ir
{A a type or bak*ii!.hing (Fig. 133), Ior ttus
vodd h?!e Drodu.-ad a.ontinuous raitrer rhai {
nrem .ft rne 'fhe $itch hotes .ie reety cir.
ric P6E ons, r d e'y naN G. Fis rljn,
re drtE ed turod{'thd du qrcdir s
cur&r norn:rry .het m st,nri!. redansurai stjls
;o rDr be rhre:d sould ' h?je &i,n! 5rlistrr
bc blr { trtd h}€ beei " pulled npht r d dqre
il,e nexl - a lom oI semi or.deitaL serm com
ionr! used today b! hames make 6 ind saddle4
(saran,otr 1936, ?734 ud nis 9.61) v:nos
rmpre pfums $eE devned to ft inro rhe d!k.
{trd shape ol the inrs: Enidl or honzonbl
llies (Fis:.12330), enher singl) or:nrcssad
p?rhap.oi!ehshrshiedb] rhreld!otronGsMr
.oro!E, ro$+ Fg. jrTbr {d tori.€! oi
Ieaves {irhn arcaded ni.hes (Fjgs. 137c d)
More .ohpl.ared sries oI nfth holes tFiss.
137e-0 roy be in€ refrianr or rcry elabor;i."
dessns, nov hcaoabG of reconsrrtlon.
\____
-))

sortucs or ibe 14, rflr bdrim r,iters resFdlrelt
(!iss 139 40). ]\tr :ddiiiomL lald $I 'JkD
:. r ro aie ir hklrd oft
{ri. srouid. rhe {aD! wie mrre rior siide
pGcs ol plxin Ledher. 5ometimes biturded rt
'he!frFis 110J xni {ere ind{i.h.d be$er
and a rlthlLr Fi ed roe.
been rry litlle rcom u.dq rhe roe *mps, vould
e\psed !o drmp on rhe unde^ide oI the soLe ?nd
!.r.r:l o(a!.'s. om llig 112), {hi.li h e!
ri:!e h.d ,, uflhclie n,irei o! rs r riid rcFir.
llir afflh * oi,!(oDr{eldrro. Tlre soles
rr,e'isahr!eernrdeitumLry{sorrh.k.at .
togerber {iih, patr 0trhfads lfig r4L), ehirh
I
ll
L ,

Sizesand wear patterns: social inferences
Fmhrer G$mbtagEs m ltuse A lhof &on
rblur 'rtr iri !( medifldl .hu6 and lni?ns
Thn dr,. d rlm !r ' ir, n Do., be n !.:{
som! .oict0sions abod lhe nse of ro.rNer tn rhe
ciiy hd, ro so'ne erenr, ?bout rhe physi.at dD.
4&nnics oI $e poDddroD. TtE prernr *ud! n,
fesetably, .orlined 10 &e .onseFed resisiered
sboes. The unconsesed bulk araem€m *ould
dinoned jor m.urare
appmiiy be.ause liey bad stnik d diiteEri
.T:ble t9, vrncr ern dE
toli tirsst smps
Ldt th,A mrnum oyeran bi31h of the shoe sores
Eqll hShlnsuesole.(Table lsr lD'heo-.d
shoes $rh 'po'raines , rhe ,podaine iis.lt re
dsouded and d'a &ehureneir hken ro a poi.t
otr or !s beyodd rhe estinr@d exrenity o( rhe
ba roe Gee ibove pp ?9-313nd T:bre 3).
Ntodern shoe stcs eDreseit lhe i,s,i,r,
meAurenenr ot 'e shoe $ithin r]tr !,Der. ra$er
L\d ihe teqrh or rtre sole ba sinc;ium dft
Irom neAuremenb b*e. .(oss rhe (orepd,
*rn iid heel ol shors ir.,i S$?n t-mo rd Tir
L:ie, does it seen rhd shos kre 'mde ii;
nnse or {idrh 1i!t4s: rhe $drh ot rhe shoe
nornr:lly la.ied in dned pmpoftion ro irs tensrh,
a[boug[ s obsesed *ith ih? shoes trcm ]rngs
rym (clde & cder19??,3ra) r aDDers itut
beNeenihe 12$adirre rsrh.entunei$e\uisr
le(me qoglesirery 4ros.r.
simpleno5urtmenbaeunf0dliate]'o.r'a
'.ug[ arronroton to ilie orisinrt size of an
been diiodld by rhe tons peaod ot buril]. blr ir
m?t :rso have sh4ik sin.e r..oy!ry, borh dunng
ed drer rhe pm.e$es ot cotr*nition. Snc!
ft e n s. hr kno*n about i€ |olenrialchaqes n
rdNime h$ been nDde for rhis, bur shn k3ge
doq beimed hA beei qriftiied ad c& n)
some e$enr. be prednied: keezedned terhd
esFa:lly at rlre heel, meAlreme.t or itp soje is
kely to prodtr.e rn onder. qrher rh,i in oyer
e$'mab .i
'fhe
lhe equfttent sne.
pu@f or lbe .onvesion to modcnj
tudiry inierisl[h ed pd]t io ta.itiiaG ..mran
(Fsp.Ne) or, rortss:t *Gk wirh!* $tfi.
cdomer to sared a s&bte pajr by tn.r ?;d
e&r. Th4e is no re*on to suppose rhd rhey
ohened sPe.if. sDe $mdrds, ,id the ft:s
neda.y ft.ords or rhe Loidon cordsaiE6
LonDiny make io menhoi or {ch Nor, io jud.e

:ier trt tn, tunn:: !.dr nthr\ $
nejirrednilhstesri 9 a.d. 60 @r.efi of aduLr
*rE.es soLleDl.dryiq - rhe otder method Gi
dNatrredrdionorupto..t0pcr.c.i(pp. 133 I Tabreaux 1 5: rJorn,tion rrom chra s) honds).
and'fal,Le 22) To predu.e Table 19, rhererore, ,\I these ftiisti.s, b.rr, imdrc,ir iDd moden.
*ourd thus be comhreit in iididlidt . di(ere..e
or2or3srosbeiwe.dirr oireandfemitepeaks.
ff this E so, it na] be possibte to Foeed tur
oerhod used tor erh bddr Gee Trbre rl) ili!.;.dt,usehisronslddrtoslibEiemediev,l
lu remrins quii! inoo$ibLe ho!e!er. io
{.ouni ror atrr sbri,,k4r rhi.h m?! hav.
onred6t aIonfmlioi. Ntren ihe objed $3s ducred by clarks Ltd oyerrho9a{r,o redre?rs
sbl buned J.lii rbofrron bes:n a cxpemeri nr
1959, irNhi.hhebnnedin{ersoil:sene!oroakEte orone sre eve.t20 re,s or so (iitormarion
biied lenh{ srips rhd.ourd b! tuboyed ntr from NeiL M:cD..lrd)
20rh .enknes 5tes 2-7
md 123 ycm Gee Rhodrs 1030, r0r-r. Thn
rap'dly d firn bul1hd the nte decres.s tbcrc
:tui (l'e n;ps sh nk by ..7 @r .cd sler 1
.ed:ftr 16teas), pdhaps lmt xi.!ed re.
dudion ol .10 p.r
re.endr, ho{ev4, crot lin DneL.illurny h?s
'.!.h less dun4 burirr lban tter re.orcry
G4n6thtt.tt Lot|t cto|t Nuttun, 2
winrer 193617). : hypotbesis rhn seens 10 be
iecenins rqepr:r trceohi(e od rhd rcrtd
the 6sres ilreadr adjNed for po$ ercrvd'on
s brinkage n ri'uLd laad r. rlF ne\pedad m'tr|u
son thd medieval shoes $eie litlle dirtereii li
Yer lr*clcr muclrbe sh.s mry hrve sbrunk
in /rrrlt rms, tr pems dMt thctr /dd'y stes
ciden€l thd the three Larsen tfoups sl'oM n
Table 19 (froo 'E.yirds cArla . sMi L e md
Tne Lane) shre a disinbuio0 of stes thd tu {
Lo$rr d ddli ste\ I
mon popuh sizes or:drLr nei's:rd $orai s
male popuLrrion vem shoes rmsins lrom sDes lj
ro I l and me tentlrs ol rh. xdurl remxre !h.
rid shoes m.FDg lrom 4 to 3 (Clarks Ltd 1972,
rits 12 131. Fisures fron' moden Im.e m
wrdrh or rhe lod h?s inneakd in proporiotr. so
F Lvere no$ immon in
s,s B r itr 1929 (Chrk Lrd 1972 Tabte D,
{itr' addtrioit rliese figues rom hle vdonan
Eislrd nrrespo btudy h ihose imm nedi
ev,l Loidon as {ded in TabLe 19. and represent
ejLmate :s :ny ol d'. *fula ol lhl nediev,
popuraloi dd or r o.igiiit ste ol lhe shoes
sd4, ol omboRdle evidence. ir is ioposrbre to
ordrook the infom{io. eom rhe late lstied!
3rd-.edun Roman rods and drirn s.tlenatrs
d s,rbuiq, zusnnnel ad Kreiner retdburs
(Table l9r ,ftd cmrm,i'v ludennge t974.
FiA. rr; li$res.onyened h modem stes byM.
Rhodrs ,id ;djunad L! r0 per .eni ror presumed
soLqed.dsing). nhe.e r yery simirrr nnge or
Ar'housh ii ma! be posibre ro idedi! die
!,trral r:4qe or sr6 befirDs nedGaL men 3nd
dlldratr s n !e Gee [?loN) mrkes n mu.h more
dirfi.uh r0 ddeloiDe rlherhd .n uril idlal shoe
rusNohby?minorrsomrn'thismiumrns,
rhe sida la.ed shoe !?s
$,n s rikre sh.e $trs rrie otren \ om by somen
dd'iLdreiGeexbore. D. r7) burihesroup:m
ddr nies {h,.h.m retromblr ba de ifi?d is
.-
-
=
-
:
=

.l 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 lr 12'3.1 2 3 4v5 6 7 O

rti 1r, tar 1)\ rt 1r1 t :
!r -fh!se, tr sbrurd be nored,3eFnlf bN: th.
d r.st b judge bl
:durlt, 'ylFru the:dJt nr dirnblrjd^ orrr
nuddd m,Lle ud lemLe peaks. ? miro6 rh.
!ur dcspir. r pr)rtleFs oriire@f EtiotrdE:e
'rrr roe!
0r (be 210 sbo.s iro'n rrrird!
2e Frred or rh. 65 ton Tng Lrie lTibte t9).
ed,rnd
13ln &dGer m.! ir*lJ, it.onobor
\ur i, e I'n.hidrei 'ydp baiig dereLoped In ihe
rlrbLe 12) soo?r hd06 codd b. b.rd ar ha{
\eri, id rM' n r .il! anoit lhe shoe5 ol lbe
i!r.;
orhdr, hoNers, $eE to{ r.uc shors
l h &en : shoes
rl'ougl' tro{ f:Jaied \ri.h i
rhildren s shoer ft:
siliLiihr ..r,potr.d oi
bery..i.hrrdie.:sre:3id
! afrrrle l2)a0d:o
lidlrd. (fur|o ns rd rh. oodem .lr dren s
izer I -3 l'f ,Le
io moDly nrd. todrr & or dtrLdrer s sne 5 and
6r rlildtn ?!ed?bour
L nortis (cLllls.Lrd
1972 ['g ]4) Ih,i d,nrpx^q oj aLod { iz.s
Elen so ib! soanai dr lb! dimFlire soted
pdt.rs ,..:\rie5 rn r'8 mm (nLghty equiva
$r mn Lo.s(.rjirdr.i sr! rr PnGs\u.h,j5
iul.n ndrul sho.: see simih r qrm tr
Doin' {ber. h jnur b} nmlln, {rn'nr, d.
rinire5 rhe ll[.lih.od or c'oe; b.Ds h:nded
doNn Ni(hin rie ruoiLl
110 / ?14 Dn Lol'g. noddl]d!Ll \k '), Nlri.h
rrur the nmpLe (lun :.1
'.gsttud &(ros Nth tompLete sol.t is io.
iv.ar panems and deldmitics ofrbe fccr
'fhe poibirlr' dr reint4 rhour the lrefLrh ot
L..d.r \ oelierr ojiul?ron ltuo rhe *!ar pd
B,i!,ri\
CAle :rsem

t4
=2
l.
Moden Child Snes
Modem adtrll snes
th! shocs rouM srt\equently hr€ beei !u{6
oenrr' sen prtfdtd to provid. der,ted el
d.nc.. ar tsrn oi pdhologicl$iditions; bui ir
Ii iohil Nrfins ih. drn p.d t ((h
ihe
ide, inrbe stDdu.orrli.rre.{dresjoliris
vef sorn not odLl t! ?dtr s bur b! luhs.tritd
ie0. voden reseu.h $8cens dd i.nr of rb.
dnordcr Nhi.h rr..om! .di.e:bte oit! m oLd or
j!!r s nor runy roi,rcd betor rhe rge lJ ibonr
q rhod caNiig ohilus dr$ohturt (cta*s Ltd
The Get * c.frrlei teyns, mide up ot nmr
sndr mNis rrds $hrli :fa subrded 10 hfl$
rmds For di]s reEon Diryr.:.oisiDFnee
lnsre of ?boui 5 dsstues b rhe diFdion or q:lk
mg d tbe besin trc.l ach nep (fl]l. 1.13r. Fr.rL
'r!rsln vpiel! rros rr. n.iab6t heads rlre
Li!r| d rhe r0d: :.d.
mu:desrrltrcrLildiilhe roor (sellpmpehilil
ointsn rre Lr- Irhr,o.- rd p e.! ia,he r
oI tde loes .d. llre Found, Thf !\]| is the
N-.r @otrns lnrbb on Dur:/ sores (Fic. 141i
,)
i1
\ /
f--
-l
1 i ^ r
[i i] ,
i l .li r) {
)
f

-,!r
s
:-'tl

5t4 dtut 4 ?.t tut h:: :tddt it.tu :
r'6Mlti,g4('IE^]Te{!EhL|i
l]Iioa!untn'mo|j!dFjlDlii]!

:,a:an utl,tr,r\ tr\ii itr,h,
lon is a sri in th. umo rbrort t!_,gs.25.50).In
o(ur ndurary {i$ ace .r be the rcsun ot ftuiu
,rpcd.d*ubb[( dihe r]e, tor exmple a!
ji{ep\ $ou|d ljtr'l nbLad ujdil.4ibL' esF.i
Oth{ delibei te nirs ii the ,mp f0d ib0omrl
is rb. butrion turJrr L?n ThE.od'riotr ofrl'e
Fd !,! (,',rr:i) o(trs sb.i 11i. iddrJ jr
.{p.rjojrl h rrL* .,rqr,rs r,,rirr se.i !r
vrD,4rmererenoy{r.urjDs'her (Fl! llri) The
joint irsLfnay bEd,e !i nled aid I svdLn*
rrqn rr,j\ uirjon, bemNe rh.! lnp I i.ll
lie ini Dosir,oD ro.orspoM,rnh rhe rb !frbc
Fext to. (Fis 1J?]. Orlltr itlrrtrd eMftples
onLr bliuse then lld ft
iloropodrmt.lr
rvhrrh oroyLd* nsunddn d{r [o dri!'s
rri
on the nier side oI uDri !,.h b rhd jnnrmed
14 !is. !{e) \'ere
Onc rtrre n.n.Niitrs rrsuL\.Irr,e drnrd{r5
IFif ii,dd rr,.,.+dnk4r] {9./ j,in'
(mes imFiLlln , !{.,1r thtush I iirm oi
6Qoflind\ rrerru n$rls)
'fhi! o,ry eilber

Shoesin art andliterature
n feN
uilikt|| rhd r\er rhe poo'a! oeillr
ro {af th!. shlri rt|po iltr nilt h ns trd sone
Ir !r nrs {.re Nom tlrdu{h (Fq rr0r
r{'0e i{e!q,tr nsht go b?reri ur 0 LsiDr
m.dpfr ni0rF{rDr\ f. {ays+d The 13d,.
}riuif Frendr po4 crnfuncdeLdis. r*ose
or i.ei, rook i ilDn
]rn\r' 'rtat4arettc\
tr L!!r 4 ltnt i,rtu tirtr4 ja
clrlter hinE.Ur!\ i \ido{e $ithoLr sti!\,rs
r$ Iadtu t l.rb. Bihk,exr xtnknn)

\trn rJlrre rrLrr.edL.! r.xilsip$
Eigh'd
rLLd.F r nrlL rzrh..itrr\ Dri dg.rjrLnrhe
ri drs i,trsrir! tdrp o1rhr unp. n.u
r|[
! rh. dtedim Gpe
o.trloirL .rF
oi e.d.sianidl Lf*!5 lnriL
l{.1?,
\hldedr,\rd$Lrlrrdrlo*id.139t)
,r,ilnri(a.,r
I uinritr
r^r LLI !],:cLirrnd g?i \ii
fnerims srrtr r!!*. Lo\r btuL.
r. ;diid on |r!
\\ ..cfciit'rrI d
o z.tron.r 1ia r98{, iiN. i\o.llriJ
{n!!
Th. \trsn 11,^ :o \err s)o.: \irlr
hingJorrb onaNi ,$n

T,bl$L&!
fh.
This! b..r \da rr
tu tr.ri b the oursid! or|l]! rree dd li..r.d or
Lurk[ddolnr]brorJ6d'ftre !drl,riiD ?rr
cor. rx4 rdr. i! Jen.rr.d s tn$r rrJ r,r, j
a(td ,nh 4i ttt:i i!t!!rnr') (.d skert
rLrrilsh rb! rrc!
Lllunrrd A Nfined are
n .ut bd nrher n
:.d n s Fiirbr! m roiriden.. rhd br d rh.
'r$i',\
\

D s0 i) Theerisf
n!d r0ldn ri Li tr,n
rii r33i). jhds Ni. of t]L rv!!p*s \ih Nhrr
ri,qJlh f,{i,, p,ilio\ tid. (.!mi.!h &
i..
i
i : r
-'
-ta
;', ,
l
Ft ,
ir rlf d,JdL nln,r
lr I
n{rd q,,l,n!!!(,L !t: uLi,r,.i,ire !.r
l- -:.1'- l-'
, - \

I1r..h^a\ hotu h,,s \ r nn: !i 0? ;,: l {.
i n!r?r 11.,e dare
163 Nos 6:l-1). Thomron rc.on{tuded i +op
di.es fion LoDdon, but rsxin
'ooulaine
it f ftnher a
nor eyen poiiad (Thornton
'P.!r,iies
]e{i I !.8.
!
, sone elabonteh de.o.at.d.
doswiverromcoleds (ThoDsr$0). bdre
dabbreonlyby$)le.
-rhe
Dor by mkxi
fhroDid?r y,ho .ompiled the ,rr,4r,,
altt.! dtrdu46, ! tu tut :ia h. lttl al
Rih-dtu2 tek, h. be. b d, ass doqhbl
'/ r^dots K;4 't h6) tr hq unrh tul
LEkr ErrI i,lld tM !!tu6, n d b tltn
r,€s uth rkq k4', t .rw t:ttt 4.t
,^noa
oJ th. cLn,nr: lt E4b^1 trsB)
But siice ihe tarcr
resardins the iyitra oI rikes io rhe knees urh
.besorla.cs istnoscetui'Jyiditio'sceo
Lelo{), t n,y be rhd dre tr{;ad shoLld be
.eil!ry
spe.ijlftu! dtnbukd rh. fist rDreaF
ad !f some orhar equaur
souce bll more tjkety, perh.ps rhar ii $s 3n
educted sues, nade tn rhe knowledce rhd the
npon{r,dru rledraorKnto$ !h4$e
lri
a hundred 6lles
'c4hov\
to@ir\t: tutr; ltrarv
a4d(
6d. alttu trytnrnhb\4n @eh iad'
c|lhou|'h||ot||l!|d
tu e trt 446 t &'rs Eh- rtu tu ,qrri4\ ll
'fhee*kritude{ith$hnh$lsddeissiven mmedErer!
a.olses s$phror, especislty sin.e ii rhe
$me )ads EngLmd Qs shake. 4 a sdrns
re.ureme df rhe Bla.k rearh Deademe a.d
in the cbronidors friid, iu( A ii Frace ti 1374
tueled by the feeling thar
demon. presen.es sere ponoiiig s..teiy Noth
ns po'nbd nore surelv to $e Devtt hrdi*ork
the pourriet vrricb aI h:d beed denomced so
ofien by de crers lTuchhan 1979, 260).
sro$, on tbe othe' h,id, in his dh.usloi .t the
cordw#en Han h Rrcad st.d *ard, traes
n'e nrftdudion ol pouhjnet to 1332, $.tiry ihd
whdever rhe pre.jsc
'poLrrain4
dde ot rhe intodudm or
, irch?eolosict :id hi*on.:r sources
ft .ois$enr r denoinrahng thd popllanry
@$iblr rhe 1370s. Then
hret ro. an)oF or sober b{€s $th rn de ro
lnnd ad in the yees arohi ihe PeAaG'
Revoh theie werendyofrhese. wini:n L:i!.
l d, Ior innaa, us ierer more rh,i r Do;r
.hanrry pne* itr rh! cir! oflondor Here he mun
monAt.nA {ee
"hose
bekr!re. r]]rre + trdde..nbe prold!nr{s r
be .ompa.r' or se xnr chrd s neiingrr*d
:ra e{ Ptourhna,
r33rj, i590)r dd. even if h! did nor sriic rr,e
DA sase himsetf he vould tro d.ubt h?!e agreed in
.ond.rnDs rhe Fnn.isons in rbe toltowin!
Fe4x4 tu tu btkt4.tund b utlht
!r( i1ttht!i{d&ntu k,bb,yr.,lj!{rtus
tanan, Itoq Phrttnu adt 24 3nr
'Ponra.cJ rhiayed su.h ioi.ne$, ind $.f
the bur or so much ddi.utc, rhd ir i5 otren diti.trLr

rhd drcy rrad kr be red to rG rnee tor *aj{) s ri
s..itr k, hrye beome poputar B! the middlc of
lne I trh .enrufl ho*ocr. tr,.y asxin reruned ro
sumpluq'lccislaljol"}Fjedtopmlnbittheil
r.rod b srnrt 1312 jj236 nore 3) aDDdenrLf
0rrerr ! fJim4 rnd (o .otr.irira rhe lniom.', d a lrft rlher
rh. kiig ndralr rv, no* needed rhen suppon
r6lrrierl! r7ib..enrury ari@dins. stow Gee Inn, rhen i. t403 itHs.irFd rh{,r{,ktt
?rroyc) ad aanden o614,23? 3). sto*sjyesDo tn,ttth, sftkal. La Lsttlrrt,G,nk,tah
lr.ri.dtf arnb&t tus
"t
Rd: h.n4 !1ra tdswt th L'"e1h at ru)
the Eutosith Htbntfl,t evei rhough {h.rj /,./trs (3 rrir n. r r, the use oa .p.uhtneJ
o.p:r Gn (reproducd
rbole)tus inDsldlon oithesrhepE c. mtr lp rh.i. r$s. eyrn rhnlrbeny{A $irhdn{n so
rhd r[ lnrdrnin{s rnd.obblon !nhin rhe c r! of
inrcrp.hriors. lr m:! be rhd hjs c.s 0r rhe Loidf tr rs sufoundLqs l,ere io$iddcn ro
bdditilthctaudrnrrai be.o t.ned ir s.m\
'pouhriei Ircm di. sho4lhemselvcs tioi. d
tbe shoes jn rbe pfAed.onedion a*.nd mDre
rhai3-1mhes l?5-r00 mm) beroid rhe bq toe
Gee aboye -r:Lre 3). brt evai rht \!uld aopaf.
rite llin.eriu4 bn$er or afllu!d dienheE ot
nnpped - either inp,id brkre or larchct
Thjs imFssion r.ms
h$. ntr'oitn rhe 1,1d' cedury shoes poi ed
roes re commoi, il ior !ni!en3l butlhe rme
mtud be srid lor rhe rryer renior .r
'Potrrdes
!hi5 n!L.
hid pEsed our or fishjon r' 1100 rf

Gee aboy. T:Lre6andpo.23 9), butr.onra$s
raced sboer a is! p:ns oI holes. :id lrcnt
h.ed .nue{hoes wirh fi: paA 0r hotes
lcroenoa yan lY?denq. pe6 .om.)
orhod ra.ed shoes is siniLxr kt FEs. s6 Tsirb
& rcit 1975, t03
Abb 5 4 a). fhe frod .nd side hced shoes in $e
London .on.diotr ex.ept $hore there is .or
onuous radis hlve p?ired holes $hib .oujd[e
cLofd b! rtrrhes (.t Frs. 5t); rhen tre feN
cianpras \rh uneyen Dben ortz.e tDe5 kt
F,s 53 withi6id, rbb.5 3) Fir.27 dded to rbe
eurt r3rh .edu!-., doflf resebbtes ? lc$
.e ur rurh shoe (r,t . Abb. s 2) boihueot
o0e pie.e aiapirou.d' .otr{tudlon, v(h tii
r. rlfD$ Jd !chrdr rhqrc [.d He
By iie eady rrdj cedud, ho$6er r s ov
sde-Lrced inkre boor lbd doDintu boih rhe
nbieolog.:l ^reotlases a.d rhe bra$es. In
ddrndLng exanpre of lsthced!ry too$r&
r.!m o. rhebo$ot\icbohsc:ders (d 143rJ
n Nrargd!. cr eys {eac lo* inkie-booh wiilj tr
ioobmd, embroideredecomioi i .onlnlous
ru.ng up dE srde rbrour+ sae4 pins othe.holes
lFig 159) Di.eor Io. rhe de.raroi, the silte is
1rr) sfrLLd to rhe \boes ircn Tng L:ie jnus
tr&d in Fjgs.69 70, rhe doruair-pe in soups
t h 1tu dare. The bns 0r Thon* EokeihiD
(d r,i60) ,trsr sreDhen s ctrmch, Nonrnh,:lso
{ddseehsrobeapatrof siiltu.kles (Fjq. 100:
.l Fls 66J The sfred nvl.! is sifriLr.
drho!8b the:ho.s orrhe bras, pod dding the
Finred and relred rhe Etun io frshto. ot ibe
Pour,De ii rhe mid l5rh.e.tury
xe[] rid s.b]€be o9?2, 32) $4e$ dd n
$as dthistime ibar b.orlripi (aded io b! .ut
rrP boor rtnfu
predomi
'tus
oon unrrr the lrrrrnk r5th cenrur! sroups rrom
L:ie There rre .cnaiiry numbes or toN
booG a elen boo$ raehins lldr $?! bdveen
rhe nnkle,id rhe knee, pnofto rhe t5th.ertury,
bnt rbe iobr ,hsen.e of deiliiabte trrgmcft ol
hEh.r boo( ts norable, .ver fhenthefteq!er.,
orreabe!rur n bkei inlo rcou.t. P.otuslr
Groeihin-ve Warnige hA sussesred (pec.
.aydion m! be fr.o booc n !hi.h the vrv
d

the boot lec $crc seprde Dieces. Ho*everL the
mdea,r fton ,Baymrds crd. , lnere ll,e.e
quaran, conrndrcb ns th.ory, ifte on rhh sire
Tter remains $e
F$LbrL[t lrrd brod rear]E $rips {tu.h h:F
been ro* of re'sed
heishten ankre.shes rhd oth.Nhe appear ro be
.ofplete(.1 Fis 23 and dirusroi, p. r0), bur,
ths isie, the absei.e .r ruu boo6 reroins
Pttens $oodetr
f?*ened ro rhe rooi wnh redher cm${inps
ro dis.trs if the +oes de ,$ocided rvilh specii.
d$ellngs Yet.ontmponrl inunntionseem to
diferen.es both n idus aid .ole. F.equently on
undecomied, uidyed ankh.shoes Yer ihe hish
prcpotion ol shms $ith srcb de.onrior in the
preseit .oLledloi niks n nnllkelt thd mu.b
signilidnce shourd be rkched (o rhe prcsen.e or
rrrese shoes ii rhe Loidon soups Manusnp6
becme ldu:ry i daDLe etemenl in lsrb .eni4
Engrand Gee aboR. pp.91 101).Ni A ontha simpleshp onsl'oes.utenheriior ju$beLo$ rhe
cotrbeii nifteenlh{enluryirhnmtiotrs,su.branlde. Giei lne l4rh{edrury re&tion ro rhe
rhr reprodu.ad hek {!is. 161) or rhe ran '5 pre$hpllous rlito ot rhe middte d?s it is vie
paintiis br qi E .k celebDtins dF Aidol[i]
m:ia:ce (iov D ih. \atjon,r c:rrerr London) li Fis 43 {r ?n indicdio. of some natus. $ith
'vetues (./ F!q. 127), i $yte ihsent trcm ?ll rh.
L,.don Foups or riis perjod The panens n rhe
van Eyck D.inliry. dted 1,131, drady h:ve loig
pikes, ailher be.ause tne Low coundes
in.lciFred Engrand r its rcadoprroi or trris *yle in
de rfth.enruryor, perh,ps, besuse in turope
po'JaineJ rfon the end oi rlre lrth cenrury
ex.ard,ons in baE rounded toas, ro fn.h rhe
bui sevenl in rbe
e$rbrished nusum 0f Loidon .onedion n,v
belons to rhe tihe of the piket reium io raror ii
E.ehndiidier:!er450sor1460s. oiahA.iiIledher
com@site sole lcuildhaLlMuseun 1s03,
Fl lxivi?;.L ligs.139 40), b!! anorhq hasr
hiised Eoden sole whi.h sho{s ,n ihprovenHt
n rrre prain buradjoiil rour d .Brynds cA e
and Trig 1,.. (Fis. 133) ri !hd one se.hon ot ihe
sole E lapped oy{ the oth{ to .Bke dre joiir
morc sdenighr (;iid, Pl Ldri.s).
tefl A pan of uide.onted side-h.ed shoes
eiovded in $e Lcm sble churh in Noraf and
dftd ro rhe hte 12rh or edy r3th .enrq hav.
been identiied b! S.lna (1977, lls) as the
sr,oes m vea" srfrihr o ihof show0 tn Figs.
27 23 $hi.h, simDLr oi the b6G or sr]le ed
ensid{ed obFds of pdcurft *ds
'flie hsue of natus B d iiing ngone,?nd.ould
inu*mions hd the pdren sho*i bv mren:l
fh{hTo|ogic|sitA
i, rlre C rj d Londo' de!,ite er"F\" nudy.

Inm'ces ind inknionca !i!e !,me idea or {lh
ihe v erLth'er n'-.mbes.I so.ieiy scrc No,n.c 6
NeLl r {hd tlE} sere payi4lor then shoes. lor
T! Robn h Fwt rNb.ttu at Fbbtr!, tt,
r, tar al bh rtt b\d' ot 5& @td r/D: tl
,hvEin, bP at dd ,n, j|| :rtrq: h4nt
h'fuxng':]6.nrnn1tlt'21ir|}'a!'
0310 r)i !rr@?r44 sri o83dj s-51
The shoes oithe .ommon peopt! do nor seem to
hrc beei expensre r.nB ro nile. $lzmrr
h$ed ,he ori.es lor pFcerolk l. Bnnd in 1364 rs
dreepence ror nukiis a p.n ot booh i' their
entuety: $d n, i penny lor .utiis :id nvopence
wA rhe Drymenr Ior
uppe6 .nd a pen'y fof the soles , Nlh : tufher
penn! Ior hnDs 6rr2tun1923, ?s6). ri ihe r3rh
add l4rh.e uries rhe ayeDge pa.e or i rxn ot
$oes, su.h A hrtbt be disribuied dinhb|y by
the kqq to rhe poor, seem! ro have been ?boui
ilEpei.e or si\pen.e (yand{ 1931, 5-7) -
rotrgdr equi$leni to a day\ wages lor I skjled
The Roy:r wdrobe rcolrG .onrai0 a number
or sho.n,nes, 4ch presm.bty ideDtifabte ro
prolde an ider ol the vaidion thd s:s posstble.
A requisition br Ed{Id Ivn 1130 Io!lns.n.e,
ra Pttt nnd ad\\nt 6, 4 pan ri :t!4
rtuut.drt !td6 hd( rd tid tn( | r: . hl
t tiM lttu" lt stqltr L&t dd. lkt ! d 4.r
!rn: /!' \j tatr iatlq
k^rd b4 , ta^ ttr ,!nj d h
rhur Hdtt. kt tur ut,^tbr{s rn4 at fin
ujt .(.PesHenaa\ 1$ lj tt, fir,t tl
tdt, tntt ih. tun \jd ht a tw./ Raft$ lj
b!n4 st ys:r hht ht 'rt k' ln Ed
Rd.4 ald@ n& at I h rnQ b4 th||r Nn
brd rry sin d b ftems in rhe F6d one.-
&( hrt othei\ - r p?d'cuh,
'doppes
rhe ![DD.is ard
trre id so rcadity ientjfied rrn*odb
norDg rhd by lrre end oa$e r5th..ilury it *A
pcsbk .douLte
!o sodn sote. plesunzblr
iu|i.$eri'olwelledshosaiJthdAfughl
noad mh.B,toe.:t
Asenb .ge
.Lr!..iri ror trljltr.h !db. iDrdered,n re
n!d! oI m.dioyal lodrlea lrca(ms n rhe
ro{ns orDordfechr ind s fieflosenbonh ti th.
riethcn&dsholhyGLdedrheemetlposorrhoes,
{are de.orated and b&l! {om Ntri dis.alded,
{hLLe in th.larrt les iifluem to{n rhef {ere
piinzndhe:d! r.m (0 Gotrbirz Dec..ond.)
cdbiiz ii44F6lhe enis6 ofa e$ oir n
!er. er 4 repreyrtiig ihe footwer or an
*e& tound ii sizes
dong $rhother shoes ii the rme sres $ith tbe
q'iden rur otr \0 rhd rher .outd be eon 6
ftu:?d b\ the rinLr '?rajid\ (0. coubrz Fc.
rhe 5ho* in rhe oresetri
medon ue lrear r Mh md di trp for ieNe
at a lree pmpodbi erhrbn rps ol reDan
espea:n! i0 the $hs Gee abor?. po 39 90,id
Trbles ls 16) The d.$nprjoi gEn b! rhe
roe ,id heel Nih e\tu rhi.knssas ot ledh.r
(crhlnglon & cuininsron 1973 Il) ac.ords
$el $nh sho.s su.r is rhese Nhirhhzreiepan
r! E Rrel! po$Lbh \hen eraniiinq shoes !o
difieEniid. be.rlei tho* wom r\ romei and
those$onbrmenexceprbrsne Geedstusbn
,bove, rip r03 5). \romen are genrt,lt! shoryn D
ontmpon( rllunniois either {nh rhen so*is
vmp{err !o'enig 'her f€rof \nh nse! rhe
ds.abes ihe \Iiie ol Brh in ?r. cdn tln
Armon .efraiJy sone of rhef. such s itE
\hoon ine botewJ (btr. no( the boob rea.hiis
aboE the kiee) iid the ledher'pdyns , will hxve
h7 t6u wtr tt I," {hht tt t.
Fd!/eb!qtt q'd 4'N.ltd ulth hd Nt!

Trre cn4enrer's r! e itr The illiller s Tat. trb.e
shoes radd "
,,t i s. ]ir led. sked 1912,
Irom the corii.ed, {.h s the ilusdion ro.
Febdaq i L^ r,i: RihA H'xfls t! t?a,, Dt.
./, r,4 Hetr i shephedes Lvfmjng hcr tccr
rt sems lkely rhd in the 12i[ aid r31h.en anu.s and feei d:d ii frodenh shao.d Lti.k
tu..s*ont!dkDruebooGperb:FtheIngb (pre$mibl! und!.d) r,kts.*oes her mte,id
akle shoes Iound so fr.qu.iiL! t, &:lrieotosml lcndeQmpanions*erbuskDs. rb.;ili.rr21h.
deFsilsorrhFpe.od.rn1200,liinsJohnorder.d
Iour pin: olbooh for lii\ !jfe, oDe olvlnch sA to
b. rjnetrn\ {ey tu le|utw t 4itl btta4u,, dcnlcar i. each orh.r (coiiin 1976 r.is t 1)
ai lenin iqotunl u,., b0ltrl,4u, de Do.umeikrysourc\ ndimrhd yotrtrs.hild.
si:: Lit,nb Rrtk,2loha cd H;idr1344,9)
'id x FEn.h {nrr oI simird dre ${es thd iie wo|elbemdsoefr!4ageas$ee.h:eo|ogi.zl
Duns t Ilontmaftrc *.r. illdrlel bods lined wirb !o& rmpry Gee:bove, Do 101 s) 'fhe hoNe
I'tr is i coicesion io lne $Ld (sind 13,12,19) bold a(ounE 0rPdn.e H.nn,30r or Ed{ard t.
rmood 0979 32) r,,is n,ssene dBr $.oen listthesh@s induding ino!. vJn d rhe nDs s
fienryhimf Lr torhf \ nerEreanor, atrdror$en
huMlo.s rhd lbis *as ind..d {r The rrns of n!!n lohn or Bflrxny 0ohn{om rq22_3
Ladrde,Pole(.1330),fo..irDDre
'pour,nnei
srro{slons
peekre I' on uidar her dres (ch{or
106r. PL 7), rr r!!r, r]€ J,r,rrtems ot wlrtrs Ld dennbld as r44r (odtups used herc as a
rhem oun h:ve d{rlioLGd *hcn oie I'd rr gen{,r reh nth.r dm srllin.dt tor beto{
m.?s. a irLLr.Dsih sktd 6 {en. T[e vrlprure rbe .ikre \ho* ) r'd exceDr for th. iifonidi(r
from rhe hht oi liin.h! d! ta Torr td 1310) lnn some races N4e Frchased sepmrel| ior
$bdi shos mr! rhe radyt bs r.(ndi4 trd) Et anot s \rne: tL n ttr dmt i trt nttta|:
der h{ skds (F,g. 162). js lrpi.itot rotry ot brtu Atidv. j
soures, tr be.on!! o{$$q
h look d lvidei.e
run or* rro .edu..s hr!!. rn t473 I, sn
s rtri sldoor {r seila h Lbf brs shoa.:ke!
.tr b n\ ka) attd4t.44 rae. rft 4 dl
The Lq. N er!tshocs rhr ry{e pmhasod
on a lqqre o(nri ror jun ror .hirdrc. ,4
sortrom Lrdy El?r[4h ! 6rn lltrr& rems
Ja- IerinoD Lolh r rhe f:rrN daiedievaffoot
rv{r :d io di! r{djr $rh \rrit.h.hildEr gro$
our or i,oas ArchreoLogLcat e!,ydio.s hrre
lErdcd d,irdri ! sLoes ii .r, sidenbk nutr$lA
rre abore. lable t9
Dven vbe. tu :ll.ru.ce
s '.:de ro. th.dtrbnionuNedbytrhlth nte or
nrd mo'lalii) rhere m ma.! oo*ibte Dn.timl
rbout btr.ehor csp..:lty ;r the suDnei: thd

undesad ledh( thi.r, w,uld EieL), suF.il otr
mh;edosiulsitA dan Lrarfr Dcrs &nm.) dnr
d'drti
to rhe lounger; or s'q, I Ihat rhe dj]]d
nandad foollttu otrh.l,re t4rh Fdrrt bur E
tro, Iednrc ir trrru!.ft and Ie ih{.t0..
u4d! orcnooked b! cmtun. r,jnl;?is o(f
exiensiycLy id i_ond ff
?ere rt&frty hsucd Nirh shoe! alld. orhine. ti
{ere ftcor.rd. no de.orred shoes tud hrdty
0y pdre's Hol$.r cunirtun ard tucir
o965 23) r)d;ey. dui clltd.en drd $eaf r,ireis
IndthesingLedild.s|,enjntb.p:sdl&[cc
I" hJp. Lmdom,. $e- mq" 1! eprl- rh;
d r \ ' haner i, 5lor lilhLon n.ir rhe i's
nrins seems ro rrie teen ab:idoied herc soir
rhe dose ddjns sequ.ft.s l]f rhe Londor vrer
M,nnrn rlsfdions ad L'55es dier.on
odrtidy ririe ristshi or $n subr.r. r r ,.
b:crNred clytrr.htds
poprLtjrn E r Nli.l!. l
oneol e i!* titetjk.
rlth c.itu{ i-(trelt Psltor rFi! 163r d.f1
'B:yrtrdr C?nk (Figs 53 1) x mebs ltket!
rd sere {6 n p. ( oldrtsiq rhe.hid s l
abs(f oI sho.s ri rhe rmltd \tes rirtr ex
mg! rl hieh booG nrM
jn nunurn$s ir robltr
relred upor lrr I(Fr.y {nh $hjth thcy {eie
{om.,nd upo, rhosenbo 'yo.e rhem. The Erpe
o.d{trrd,kr*mcd rlie&rkdmisnl;e
srsren ihotd be dE dse, md this i!:iD rrnigs
b:tkmeisnrollltrdJFofthe{€*Andlhl
tonr Tli.o\e oiolnor.sla.jrlrtcs E$
$ or nshr rre p
i[ nn tjons ol d'iuren $eai4 rdrinei s..rB
h iDdid. ilil .hildren $ef !\.mDrd r0'. rhe
!drrbcage.f reD(oNrlr. td!NeeE:ard1935)
Pr$uiubry, \hen MoNr.ler qrorc r{67 r
bol5 lea.ing 'poura;e! ,, .r/ , r,ri' (l..anh.ll
r335. r.r31). be ,ss kter.ins ro olderhtdrei or
laslrioN r.?.rred ovr rrk D6t hudrei lcais
llw rrcen btr.d oi 4idei.3 fio oinm;ipc
q&nunit! to.dorm ihis sdli rirb suftrtnr
ddrb|em|'}.Lof]cfinds'i61notbc.rq
rooLed The e!iden..0fitr sho$ Ln rbe rr*eni
srcdioi !{e{s dui hin, orib. d{i!!ms
nrurd bc inldi6ed, or

Glossary
IreD or rodtrer Nhid erlends to jtr{ itrk
rhe:.Le
Lti'jAlnlLi]liiglelo.s
orF*r,i". rde rdi -dc i;"
leruLrrrDF (rrq r'
oddlrrrmirlr,r
ntLd qlmLLf bma,q fe

I-q,s uoo! nn!. nonDll! ol lerlpr, ilraadad rbrollh @irs ot hok
N ert'jshj rir rbriirg
sri0 or srher nirhed onto th.llesh sde ol rlp lpper Ir nrtn!1hei
die hehores (., !iF.100, r03)
d mu.d ttu tr$. rxoodEibrr.{
Tb. p:{ .r rre uDo{ Nhi.h N pulled
I rt'.ulirer,rrre !re 'rhe *?m
nru?lr! lnd|des a md, drousri.o! iiq;tr[Lr b!fort rbe ]3th.cnrury
d !, dlnote. tnrnslrr sphthons
{h.h is irn.ad.d iltroush a pa; !r hi,re\ lltrhnenry.
Iifi h{e E ? gen.r:r rem ior ri it
.. ur!.s ! rorm ol open sidrl
rroh i sdpooledty Polishongin, or.pk| .
Eitoi'aly trrrdf 0, ded be sdled Nith nor or han ro hold rlr
ltth.eiiury ad in rhe mtddre oI
hc.r. bur n rhe,edie Pnod mor
hiriroir rh. ffD on eilher sjde or
R€i.for.€,eDr .ord
zDd the sor. r '.ake rhe hnin!.mdgin moE {denishi
cord k.ured by Liidii( nit.ht,{L
prot.dLotr. ror ertrhrre on Lnenings ?nd ?lors th. yrnp ituod (FLs
r,r!/, Joh nade br bunin! roge
len Fr:id dojBthem q(h m edse/aesh seaD lFie.7?).
o,jn,tu.d au tnr nadeb\ aE
rh srai res[ s!rh6 (FLg 7ii)
Itan ofr0o$?d$hi.h does mt exie
f.derpan olsr'oe usurrrr rrihi.k{ledher rhm rhe upper. r!mo*
Ntrnbly hxde rir h rhe sn Ln sid. do{n{3rd:
lred con(rudom lq.y ). Usuall!
.a,r,,i,k r mph d! sl! ped pj!.e {, I rhjlr hdher iit.hed by ioo!
rumel *irchtru ro dE mLn sol! tFt. u3). somctim.s kno{n A :
cLrmp solc, whi.hisFn,05 r, te pretened, sin.e ii dp 15rh .eniury
su.h soles o.ctrsiotuLllr seem 10 hrv. b.e. an onsii:lrrt1.r rhe shoe

,(.r.{dttu'g Sd.hing dorc lnh a !ryr. rhiear rhrr
r0trsrd5 h!r hdes rnd brk oF, !o rhd i tonrinuou:
Er.i the roD surrec l!'s.133)
,irllrs-n dr4 arsled nil.hiq:rl
usedrorpthria (fr! 75), rff rjningrqo oe.n cdae h edF (!.is 30)
olsimpl'roejiroieth..dg|
srhd hs,?n\ rlk nrsr, sjdo
tre q, , r ;!ide lFrlr ir :,r)
\r 'l' '1,! *i;!!d'u\u!r J{Ed i
rrrt rr{r
c.rhr p.ni.l orrhe r
Ln/,,'lxs.sofll]!\ii!|\|n'
'ht trr,.{ b j0itr ,rF dJPr
orroNnd0i (q.r I is rl dr

Lrst ol lrsures ano concoroance
[x..pirorr]|krsrrds*N.inris 1r6 :]l1he
illunnrd !ho$ m nlii rcun c\ iri ioi. Ar
thd ihrcc ii.l.r oa iirirFdion a.e requned r.
Ldf,tit a Frei.Ljed rhe 5ir.,r, (TL ?4. Blrl
r\ppo ix 11, the
a I r d r I y I t a,t 6 t,t tt t t t.n\ qr/r e \nt keis)
erh !(.) Tr'e d d e: ! p e n d e d t o. a b. tu l jr. i
cfry.a\!. rrad,ier qhr.h rb. tayei roieini0s
$n .Ljed is thotrgbt to h?f. hen deDosired
r\r,e i\r) l hDse nod Nr,nh $rrt rrbnft.d
rlr Nooi or Ledher are
i63rl rrli
Pqod vlr r .1tr5
rlft i!44) Pentrrnr? .!N;
ss r lr$l is8). 0l
mr or '! turrr Funher inrormrrlr rbld rhe
l[dvrds 1936). Nhtrh s peiai!(]!
n{.d Ln
Iric i? liorr 1118.)
5hf!,a,r Brcy rirll5i3r P!d( \ru 3,
ieprar !! ru l5fl i4i). trr'rrurr r.
lrliru) rf,(rqi r .1!0
Adul ; +i( L:lA.: J4dt@ EIG 3, 4&jl
rel(s0) o( \'aknut nr oe. ur
M!n\ irktr$4. Brr r, I616t 1r?0t
l1rllori) lvr..tror ni . rlo
lrulcos) s;!rtorr rr . r2r0
aeeplo, srr $6)i*r) rrde{ilir!.
Jr(fsr' BrCulred
li..ri&d EJC!ti$r crft ).Pdodtx,
tr6n (]r),\riretro^rfir r.[D
s! z l4!t or3)
sH ir lr&l cs)
lrde6o^t nJ . rr0.
tr ^di' s h!. Brc r ft271 (|sr)
Peo.i
!@pk4' sH i,li&lc16). $nenffrrlt.

if
sL\ s c!$
{lcc|
olj l,dlhd sors: d[ Bc 2 Ii5]
.io Adi' snp! sde:Qne lp*ca[
Bc2t33t
rq( 'f !!1e 12011(r$e). rrl e.
18c ar sH z 1316l
ar ^ddfs $oe !m.i
!rehbLa nLr Bc 2 tzl
!c 2 ptol (4Ge). d{k.orslrucrN r3! 50.
r5 J.ft rrd!{b ldr tutru^ +fs \,-; ris:
s{.drefr:.{. !c 2l!11 (3rti r). (in
$4prsnr r.fu.;Q[ Bc2lLstc$t
drr
lr:01 (3303) i'd
ntr ilri :5h!+r!'r B. 2 erlt c[3),do.r
Lc s[ DC 2 ttg
BC z tat (r!!)
tllt i3!i) Gi!!pc1r..r3{
do*
2 rrslr36e3) dod-rj)rdotr L3o i
l!$l i3rir) d!.( nd.
mtr tsc7:J]jo l3jqt odDi!
4 D ror \[h r] p' !c 2 Fn (rr!r)
2@i !e0) bur tu Lhe rse se fj! m.
n[. s\r.l & lr]!n {c0) .r@
l34ti*rn c@4cri,r lit
a tr5r iFro) cro@cr5.rj&.
!xH. 4ir I rLr ndi rn pb rL ir [r6t
uo{i .dr TL a a68l
l!31 1.r0!D d.[ntu 13ii rro
sorqli Fs6Lr a I BC 2 soli3i0).6{
Ladr6 i (! rh
u rb j\rA & cu2l
f chLdt rh
Bc z ffiJ orn). d{( trl
t3FJ ir23)..r41r5 r lr4l

'tL 7! 275) <!i)
a et5l cmt
!i TL ru ],75]
]k4e[rq ht lrbnd.6hnas 4t Niftb{l.
,Pour6e$e.{!triigji!fuu,6eleBc
2 nsl ir66e). dotkfir, [?5-!00
BC 2 ni011372),&*nd. r3?i Lio
-r,cuthgFkn.held({trI$4'slel{
ir r.xdrri !!{irr'ir(r!ir.TLaLr[l (16:3).
L: radrio JLr \ n(tu rr-r 13631(r60t

. I nd .qn s\\r3t tr, c!0).1 !00
\inru]s{(D.]{oh,'Rsn*.tpyoght.
,: tsadrsd6rq6@rpu rLr lrin lrur),
!; Lair'hrbr {irlL i^pr
TL r 13$ (3ar),
6 bdlndL,-{tr6,q!h siv:3i trDlislD
&rPi h,- lir rr I I r.r
|]6811:rI)
i: vl4 Bc ', 33]
I ri4
3c 2 rsl
t301t G36s). mdiire rnh rfun
.! osd{\ .i r Bc 7r lre ca3i) d!*fir
1r a nrts cjr Bc7179€$r).M&irrl
d BG M Ltoftt l$r9) Peni Jri. rl.
ri R(i e rTmrt (si) Pend r!,. h€
Dr: '4rieh h thldd{tu z(nolia{
gi sqns l3o1t G32) @d]re12ftrru^
sHt4 rlsrtcor r;'qionr J , rll
1: !ar![d]e^tu($G s< Fiq ,i
'. aui(ds cri Bc rr rrur(I33), d* ni
sp s! n lrel (sr)
,r Pn€n sirDdJurl (3i) 160 !00.
3rR 33 l15ut ct
l3il cu6t e& M,
l30l rror)
d,!k iit
D P'ier 31vB$ lolls).r.6! !!!
.!: vaor cdJ rLa e75li[!). crcupcrs
r: vi D crr Ec ? l33l (r55;) iel 0i
B.2 rietc$3) &rl
(5s)i
Bc 2l5t imor) & cde) &r

130
shA dnn Palkns
Pz6. S4ri&e. TL 71 E53l €m6), C@e
l5tD.deonBLRqJM6zA'flI'
P,na &rizu.
rL 7r Basl {2M), crcut
Bc ?2 lrsl G2a), dd hf[, 13?+l,r0o.
Tr 74 Ela (1O9), CGs mr, ..rs0,
BIyB $ t10€t (s), 1360 uno.
TL 7r 806l (w), C@ c[, ,13s0.
aqrB B I@l {25$), 136.-140.
BWB $ eet €0r), BG1{0o.
Prb. rL 74 t?r16t (979), crdp e2, arz?o.
Ped. swa e Pr0rt (168), Fe.1{3n.
Prtu. rL 71 ts3t o2r3), c@ c1s, ar4o.
TsiElfideoFtdishehionDl*lllj4'
@rdsdbyI'(dmeiq'Fde*@'
115{e{penddsbdi0trhdby'a[d4g
$6 Dd non bnh of',oln otErde. wsdsb
olfublnBfumhe'sr'
Me&acaci@h'I{na,,Lym'N.fu.
se Delr f64 ees of rrdEts cokF. st Jorn 3
s'.plq!cnnd,Nwid'
ftr Deei sho"iisDdc6 hd,pootaimJ. BL Msjut
D.ii3e b lhe @€d by [,/& 'ttdr&'.
Add Ms 4130 fl96b. (D.M rdh Mnh! 1932,
h^4HdEbedbJds'scdeo6s'35'
165 PLoof rhsOrrdktrdotr, lh@tusd!bdmof

APPENDIX I
The excavations
ri{il,rjundddlun
^ r'tri r.srDtion or
lidnld rYat.hriB b.ieJ.
lDr.'i
otr i,{!d ilre 5te or ?rd' s'.trp t'
ir ernDie tlui tlk. ro ,.L '!L\ L" rtrLr
rs.rnt.d dd:b r .br$G (.oms pdrerf 0 Lsii'
summinsad belo{, bur lor i, Ldarih d'. r.ad{ s
::-_:Jf'\r

oHt
t2
_ .
p@uyep@dnoMefu,(m'l.tmt@'

rereiied ro vince 0935). Funher L.Jorhation
:boui de siles rhensetves is ?latable f rtre DLrrl
rl{tid c'aial,4. (Mrseum or lo|doi, r$6] or
n the sepa*e publiilrions as lsred Tne site
rode. appendcd ii !. renrheses :aer .he tun mne
{ eeh n., r r*d in th. ,ai o/ a@zr ,d
t 6 otd Bdilq/12-6 Lunsak Hi , Ec1, t932
(LH 7{rl|r 32; Fis. l6s 1)
sevei;L sedions {ere .r ridss rhe ciiy dtr.h
d Ltrdl{e, shosing r ro liale been E.ut svenl
rnes in llre Late $xor nd nedle!?l peiods. The
,6 reenered shoes. r€ether N h a very l:rse
or rhe drrhes, *hich h?d ?pparendy beei hveued
wlrh nbbnh h a s;ste opeotion .ert?tntv b!
1340, shen 2 ro$ oIhouses *A btriLr onrop,,id
*A L* $hei treshry nified
Ba)tui, Auy, akb, vnbno srx!, Ec!,
The ex.avarioi .onmonl! knovn as Bamads
caire .olercd an enonous aea over rm n
{ide to ine sodh oi upper ,fb.mes stie-4
ovebscr& chefyrgft,162 3&Fig 60) Thts
n .oisldenbLf to the !oud, ol the onginat B?v.
mrds cx{re, shi.h vas buitl bv wini:n r .Dd
,ppeen0y deiroyed in the hte r3th.eitury. No
lft.e ol thI or aiy olher royal srtrdure *€s
round. The pai.ip, su.iying reniins vere of
r{rh.enturrd?c: on lbe $e$, asens orlmLer
dock leading 10 a publi Mre4de and, oi rhe
eAr. the {:n5 or.m ddioinms p reprEd\.
1931 Gee belos) $"s sub{anti:lly rtblih in the
l5$ centu!-, aM i*li be.de kio{n ton thr
hme oiwdds 6 .Brynrds &sde.
The rootrlef de{ribed ti this volunc wA arl
fouid ii lhe li.inity or rhe tlrh-.enruq varercte
iilet.nd may be divLded i.to hyo sroups
(i) A sm:rL group or 4t reeieed shoes w3s
round n dunps deposited rhe iine s,hsn lne
inlei rsell NG .onnnded Tlis is dded bv
porery and jerons Fob:Lr! 10 the $dl
(r) a lery k4e group (4r7 resi*eied sboes and
r2 pdtens) *A round aong dE enomous
quatiles otrubbjsh \lnnh{ere used to rtill
the dock b Dreprnrion Ior lne southwd
pot.ry, lnree coins lourretoA atrd seEnl
pirsam s.ulenin sugge* $:r llh {m donc in
rhe b$ q!.ner ot thc l,!it' lrdury Tre pre
smdioi of redheNork $A beser herc n,f
oi deporG in th€ do.k and rhe Dresei.e of
ex.eptomlly hrl]e quanriries orpurelr orsani.
mdenar. Differert p:ns ot rhe litLiis Nere
eianined ii ditferent *,!s, bui id rhose ecs
{r,i.h ser mo* neti.uLorny ersvded
pedaPs A mucb * h:[ $e tokl r is tikelr
thit very .edr/ all rhe shoes on4n:lly Dre.
Rntmd: cnthlcit aJ r,rdo, Ba$ srlhot,
r]tkt ThdDcs shat Ec1, t93t tB\D 31: F)!.
I1-urlon erposed seyer:t su.tesile hmber
A !e4 .m,ris;!p d it
reanered shoes and 5 pdreis Ms tound jn hre4
derosited rlhen rhe
HGtonftl and do.umei kd somes sr spes the
llns *?s Drcbab|v bedreo 14,3 trd !h
2-3 TtiE 1,,t, Urrtt Thrrs s*x, Ec1. 1974
Tbe er.rdion eiteided oy* a ver- larce ma
or..430{mrdrereredammd* ;N;aor
Evelients (cl cl5) nnging rrofr rhe nrd 13rh
Io the nd lsth.edunes| bebj]qs a $lies .'
as.ciaied buirdinss (MiLn!& r{itne 1932) Four
n€d dtrhps rhar {de pai o( ihs tou nain n4e
(') Ille edie* Foup. .sso.iated dh rhe C2lc3
revelmenb .onhins jrn 17 registared
!"red qu(e exrmtre\, hd lalqe qu,ntiries
3ithe.he drnps wee.onposed ot soil Nhnh
.onuhed tev tedher obieds or rhd th. coi
dLlons otpresrudlo. rere so poor rhar reN
nen6 *ere erecred soon arrer..1270.
(ii) The ardup Aso.i:rad with the se..id main
rev4menr (c7) is sihtady snau and @on!
praenrd 16 rerinered stra) In rhe ab
sence oI d.ndichronolosi:l eiden.. atrd .l
-
-

1
nt.mnll! drhble objcds a iid.oI..1310
1,000 sq 0. dunD{
ri) Ih. .xdiei.onsis6 ofru! lile 'tan.r.d
. sr o|er{$
(jn Tlt [NdhsrnDsbyhrrhebe*preser-.d.
forunaaxdked 'rn plilibr\ tr er!r rdre
rrrloirr! lJ'he Fe.edlis d'ns ? iob oi
the *me depor 6?r$rfkii:
4enLnbn
dmosrlrflrerr$.onr.rd
jcrotrs:trd.oiir
l 6Jfiasfi r, rcz J9r6(uLK i6r Fig 16 5)
r!dpil5rf3inNi^dn,"iorrhrqlhorr("hblrre
(rr Tli. s.rord soe (r0 'tFi.'td sho.t crnl
rhen Nse od l,rr re.rrnr The shoes
ds \r Lk sreernsen(Rosk1ms * s.ho[eld ]9i3)
Theonry6idsd$mbed iih s\oruncr.xeroup
otrr (rtsl) hcdded br p.rtfl t rr,e *.o.d
Ptrtit ctb^nq L..lt, LVpt rh,t^ sttxj.
L setul o kmN I rllt honqenery on(jnrr\
11r Lbrook nrouih nerrhenedle\ii srerirdui
lubrt rlrrloll)ow*te. r di! n!er b,ik. Drorl
dunp5 behind ihe rr[e.]Qs re.o\ekd in rLqge
rhe Dddre or(he 1{rh ftntr[ (..13J06o.
Su, Ltn{ tilttr 1h,Dr\
l smrLl codrclled evrvdlo. erorsed i Lrl!
iron lnrh'se (l2ii1 r. Lrt.) ?nd seremL
riry or ThoDA Be.kd\ nny oD (i
I70) brng tu i',,,rs tdr q,r,, .oi,vrr,
lr )Theth;d g'pi!isiii*rl {.iL06.agi!.
t.Ed shos) rnd ..me tom red.mdon
been dded [r da'drodroiologv
r:ra or
rder. F,!jd;Lg i rdrglL &,rtlr !^i 4?4

Li'Tll|ie{gnlpl9FeijledJ]..nun.
( rrt JitriL snir tr br tu lt, L{en r1rr9
Dde|]!.idthd.:r!\$fe\lnpl{a
EC], t932.81C
E\.arroi ordnns 550 so n shov.d rrnr il,e
sf.: I i,r[r: r'!,xh i ]rP rr Laise
rrnr! $nh th. buidiry ii x \rdetoded
di!
NE fiurbfltrlr freor trrr\ Th{.atr.f h.d
dln!(r(d [e l2th.nd L3rb.rrun6. lur the
nc d orosre$ so'..iirtrs ytrr.d iotrronhirt
J uirennrfr ii(r rhe rlub
ot ! Borotrih r^d
r.!f.r.d
11\lniofund. rb.rior! llnrNnhi
lqli,r
rhet vnr p.o.LL rerned
md se.D
riit |h. rbrd grotrli i:.ia 1)r'he mon mponin
'tr...ertsif er i r2errtArrnotrif
1r$.
drld.d ,.rsr,rr i^h (ou souF
it Ti,r !traj.n(Penoi
v|) run 13 fegrft.ed
nr!\. Foblrrt! ddcs to . nai dr,r tite
hPr reidm{hron.L.$ I's+drDlhdrbree
Inob{s nlD dr ss..nred relerme.r {.r
brd:dr! rl rhe midrht. l2ihcPdrn
(iir Tha:etond smup (r.riod!nl !Di*5'fr
krgm..rary ,\ dre uf. ns5tssoggenedby
the 6ndDs.ri( n otHenq n {11309r rd
b! tri. dlk orlhe roLLo$rg rcrerNd (q y J
(rr The rhtd srcnp, b.ordLy dd:blc b llr 6rn
hiilrrf rhe L3tb Eru4...o ii0s. robl ot33
I sens ot tlrce

lnh jl5.onnrudion (Penods f,\, x, xr) A
dde oi. 1210 .r bc proposed ror rh! brjldjDs
ol rhe revetn'en rseil ,id tor the pnmiry * devribe d 'tr rhis volu'ne (pp 93 100), bn lne
dcposirs (Penqjs x, xJ; dendrc.hmmlosy
\iere re.ov*ed $hen Nndq s?s ilieadr hr
iinLe^ md this seems.onsntent nth a.oii
issueorJohn (120i 11j) A.oin of Heq- Ill
0223 a3), holger, sires r slighdy larer
dde 1t the deposibollcnodxl, p.obably in
(iv)1h. 6ml gr.trp {16 rsi$ered shoen
.ro$ Fnns Flt a tfl,rr &s 4!d of
or vri.li rriere we
94 examples in rhe
c,!a- Iate, nhrtQ/q, Ltu-1hd ^stt{t,
lcl ?r7JlCLIS i3; Fjg. 165.10)
Dxftlation in 6frce. sm:I dispeised beatH
14rh en.lry rimber
.cvdneft a,d. behiid them,lhe lounddions ot
rhe hr ]4th.€ tr,,a cu$om lonse (Tdron
BroNn r9.4 rgit The sboes haF be.n pub
lsbed lreiously Uons lgis) and iosdher $nh
non or the oth{ 6.ds, cane rrom red.bitioi
du,nps aso.iard hili!ieletmenr ont! one
During subsequld {ork br buitdtn! .onrndon res{ered shoes Nhi.h
rfter rhe fomarerallioi hid been.ompLered
mdslEn0l!l]miled
ro .ome rrom depcns (croDps c11c2) $hich
{er. .oi&hp.nry rlnh a relelme.t dded by
aM g.o!05 ot finds
r.isienl .hronoroF.dry $eft srnsld ,i s"! m

APPE\DIX II
Conser-vation
Tmning hee ?rrof. p
'lible:t)
som. pi.c.s
lftrqDllkoi3]tr+i.
{.lIiJL|tionolrre.omftendedh'ngi.i'le
;odiu' oli'dplilill pb.d. (.0fl) mcpsar.r
brg rrur \irh onLf . smrr inrounr ot er { ind no
pros.ri some ii lli. ririir$ ad fic v Lhile
b!s, r.in d dr;r! bL,'i , orh{s maf li:fe
(r5ii{Jt!Le:ssD(e
Free,ln{dtr5 ndipo{r
rLs.bnr irrod s rsendh.objedr rorcd {.i
IL6n:Pne.elI'xdutnnybedailc.dllmt
aos.nnirn ( mide m(ed,rin
rr! di. s.s

methois shcr, re&
tu.snG oI dni@ ii 1,,
r fl.rLh e. nrcns ard noi
The m€dlods cbos.o iTi])le,I)
!:rir ind finishes 1.hc
rolo,yiq rido^ ra8 coisidertd nh.r ev rd
(L) sr,/0i 14,{ (Redor97J)
thev m:ke {udr rnd hrndhir ou.h eiier
d
sunft rlDnrD (i..tone or rl.ohol) {hi.h M!
ind rrl'elbd llF !\iyrled !r {A :5 \hen
buacd or \* enh{ $lollen or sltruikei s;e:
!fl!
'he5e dlmensions as dGEl\ r oosibL.
dyes and iitrsr,A sj\e dr(ere
Dhntrises ba.khs
efieds ot bolh
coisDiig The;ili nlirrtoud?! \Hs snaltbri
too rqS0 freeTe-d ng rs ritrrAiryLv trld.
12) F{u. d4,,! rDayid 1$rr n:6.D re31)
ThLis? ge repro.es. hhAbeaiiisrDde^.
usLf n manrabon.nA i. ltu rin 12 lem lts
h rrso pu6 njnjmrl
nnitrotrdeLdr obirdi. Trirts sho$.d drr rhe
dunos sollenr dnis rlabLe 22) li rhis rdhod
theledh{s'iu.tr:idpLEd;ja\&!um,|h]5
au$s i[e ne aomed 10 subtime , rhd is, the
{dd n rtdorad 'iihoui goi.e ttuough a L([d
phAe The iiiliiLeoit.r odrar ro' treez. dryLnq
ndhod sin.e 1933 rl'e vuseun o{Loidon h6
rt$Lr D a slde nige ofr0 0E
mcLtrdLtrsbls&
L'rher reated b! rtmoul orv&r itoie un
{ LLbe nth.,rifsid lbrr':id rheieDx! ijn be
ror{ ire. 5h?0. .o10tr rid ile bm .lso i.r
slriir,ge rr0 ro.1930 idrsirg {A:ririli.d ro
\hie:pntr(RedorleTn ].hl5ksrLt.d 0lieiLbLe

\:lh.1dftin{niIhplA'j|JdJrt
scli.r , r si
nPij]h''iD]FjtD}dl,3l:q'{nD'!!rj
ridDlnril ind rj,drr ,:jjDh rrr;.l]ii
r" L rqi' orLl ne
rrsze Dr ed -rA*bm
12%
Dred

Bibliography
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BMs, J, 1399 Dtr Pameibser a cskrs.
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tucra d.E 8t,1o,2eL3a
tdr7tutu.
cAxoE|'w')614fu;M@MieR|ibifl:b|l
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xi4\I,wM-fu,
EwtiMldNrnea'
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csr+oN, M, D63 cddrzu ol d:F ,l,',gJ
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1em EahdtNr ol tebh aed @tu,2 eit'
ztyd, Mtw
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l./8, 3r, rB4
cfu^.bE4M:d',fu,
a/ dB b tQ dd alrq ,4M Mtu4,3 ena.2
Etrbickl,q der scrur,mde h 9500 Jaini, ,t
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ctutqwolth.d di.,
qlLtuaMt yr6 ktu cdidr'n MeM N.B.
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Hrifl,rD(d),1s
t'4dtt @d, htar,,, 1^d6
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ud sdr*nq
r^Ybr, F s (d), 1a E!@ n E*bnN ,3
Kftri4nlh{|cje|uit
rrjdderbua, ii J A rric Bry, Een
ddreidludg draet in de Ah4 h Middt b4
ir,BatuMd.Rijktitutuhd
atudtlodb boc. Md.tu, 11, n2-r6
E8$LD, J, r9Sr iM;se? tu' a /&t
J@ms, H,1922 3
atE.q,saa.t wtdt, Btn J&r Rtttu Ib,1,
roNB, J, reh Med
ha$.r, i,, Tdroi Btuw
reLry, F M, 6! scm B!, R, le31 I enriturol
(d6eRD,cLGd),1919
M.6 @ ta,hd6,2tu
,rs7r l.+rstu, A tu@ ol Lo'dd
hrr^M' R, & MA]rrEm, w, 1970 33 I/e,!rry,1
s.
1s40Mq1iful@d@

]r'd\'ah'Pl|.||,I
)4Lsn,dra4,i|tfuh
s!ts.rrr' J !fi
sa
Nli t h (,ut lt coeai.^ n r, cilt li
tet
fb uDd r&:,r cqlt).i'Kw.
sra$ q/l,r ruu r: !r5 r3r! $!
sri,n. J, rs, I !,4ri
hbl:l||t4jtrL|ll!\i'jn,|r|1|d11,|1!
r' ri 5h{r u ,rhl. : d^ ke! J R Prirr.
Eti4bh lt fqr qtu nlttar: 4 u\r ,1i Etoi
srh.'|.lF3l.}'Il4{'i@4',&rhr|6'l
E\a!^a,;dBll|'.phR1fu,414441|
rdk i^r(d/.116 I xr
J. !tu \ik sr*r
Rtrs{". J r*e Jisr I
Diolq
&J 1B{!ir
r,.ttnr ,6tn$ Ith. rttuh
rtdt{ru zaltrrd ^tilr4.4 \vrtu\ zyr -

vNcE,Ac'1$5ThesqsamdjedFe'of
Sho*a
wB@r, L E, & OaR, J, rsB idild
Pattt s
Bnb!'
naw,l,1w En'tih4bt d|g.d a979) rl
te.dryke k.hniqa b tu|bgtd tdt*tu'
Y^R{000, D, r97S tdnt.ntorc,
s ed, Lo'doi

Summaries
R6sumE
5.so]!Ltrrj].ien.nld.llJfl'ogii.
r50 L: pLlprli eirr..n.: Nu !
cr
rr,i..r,rrirtdlirr rr, Jidolf,r rofl ur a
lar r. q! trnarnr . rrnF. r{ ^ I
oranr\.e ce.ii.rs rmr.t d. d|rns{
daN ..nitns rr
.s nrLlr de
rn.s. rir L$ dii.niita:d.: p

Ure des plus importates.omlu ns dtrdedier.h.pite, Crl$yuid,,s
illu$fttions de mmu{nG
m,iditiv x, ie sdd Fs roujouG un pide sr t.qrl d ped mnprd o e qui
coiceme res .hausures mddiivres. Parfoh, come pa exemple das tc os
de h node des b.uh poinhs a h 6n dc
dh6orogiqu.s ct brsbriqres do tes utunmrions .on.odent ms t. ptus
sur h .ontinent et cn crudc Biebsne, roi Fd fri. que des modes d-A
.hausurc senbl,bbs Jarrteni ftp?Ddues da: lrmope dtr iofd.o!e$. La
mle.ti.D londmieme e{ $s d:t
coi*irue ue des prus impotunre\ ..nedlons
Toures reschisarsd€.riresdz.s.evolune sod au nus6e de Londres.
.i dres peuven( itre eEmies sf dem.nde €.nre.
zusammeluassung
{uden kiir[.h beinahe 1500 Schub. und Lb.n.huhe zus der Zen von
ungeEltr 1100 1450 leluiden Die freisten hgei io schichtn. die zur
Ledgesimutrg a Nordde der Th
lultdlchte, {dsetomrlioseie L4enq hd die Funde ru$*oidenfu.h pl
D* e6t Kapilel. S.rrr.Z,d,,?r An:Enb{uu, u, Ilaa-u,1 e\t\
e tmls dae eig datiene, breite Eidfihdis ii die le6.hiedeied Aned
Bkher w kein verglenhbues Niai
Schuhe in GroBblihnniei lorhanden (T?iel l) Der se$mte Zeihum ht
mbnelt n seben Phapn m. F{eirs uiserahr 5oJrven nr die die jeveilisen
Modete der ren bes.hrieben itrden. Die am be*en erh:uenen Beispiele sind
ihre Gruppe abgebildd, d* Re* ci Ln T,belei
DN u{eite xapltel, s.rilrtu.r,, rrl s.t!r&tu', satr shh fli den
we $ofien auseinander: dem l-ed{, dem ;uebl dfl s.lrnanen und
Riehmeneidei, dem Moos ,um Au$t?f6eren. Konshktionsmelhoden und die
Haupden dd N:il e siid nii debllli
wddei sii.keElen Lo.homente trnd Ccrienngetr gezetl. Seit der Mtte
de3 1,!. Jdlhhdeds *lrden s.huhe ii Nla*trprodu]|oi unter vaN-enduns
eiief rel.tiv kreinen Auzm von shdr
I m driten K:pneL Ur^rrlrir, nird gerej31, dajl in r 2 J,hnimJen, weitr
r{oda kmei. rn rrdhen 15. Jatuhunded
vude eine gai, neue An S.huh mt einer zusmme4esetlei Lede(ohh

ijb.Hhuhesehi lordhi, sie Nurder [be, den St.iimrreo rL5 ortutr sddden
Dm riere K4)ikr. c,&n od ?'q.rrtrt, e.i(h Rthvhliise,zeigl.
nidgli.h iJ, die sen&a, oasiMl.n s.huhgrdBei
leszu$enen, dxll dle arr'rrn crdrle
u lEuennilen uitesd'i.den wden
Iucffdemeb-iesi.h, d?ium iie N{irft des 15 J:Irhmdens eine besoidere
In S$uh fir l{LeinkLidrt e
la$en "rkrLt auf Deloffijefliser von Fiillen, !'sE
Entiinduosder sojls, TehE.d.r.in{ads eca.btete Zehei $}ljeile..
lm dd {nhtignen S.hlu$olgenngen ir\ leurei Kaotch. Sr,,,r ,
truni !,tt Lit hn ist, daB figulrclF
musknpdlu{ndoiei, dre !:drtioFLreF
seH :ls Quelen mitelrllerLirher I(1
sind in Bezus alr Schrbz$s
BeGpieLrre J{ Mode dd Latrg.trSd
l:hrlMdcns. drter hingegei
Kun(ler no.h \Ldei
drFteulen, die im (idi.hr d raba, Latrse $crholt vtrei \ eqLei.ha d( Fmde
'" l" rpJT"'nuoori.
da( :ihih.he S.hrhmoden sich iLer srz Nord*!s Etrropa rusdebnretr, sodar
die Loidon* cole.iion nt ihr.n genaoen Daten md l|ren Erh:ltungvushid
:i cnc der repriisenhriv*en und bede aid$ei Samnrluqen enclrei
Ale bief b.nhriebeneD S.hohe $erde
nd kiime. n&h *hnftLicher nimeld