Panorama de presse quotidien du 02 07 2022

possible to be big and fine with sparkling wine. Indeed, scale may be preferable, giving one
access to a wide range of wines for blending – a key for not just complexity and balance, but
stylistic consistency too.
Commenting on this sector of the market, Champagne Masters judge, Jonathan Pedley MW
described it as a “mixed bag with a handful of delicious wines mixed in with plenty of basic
stuff.” Continuing he said, “The latter were often young, raw and lacking complexity. The
better wines had maturity and complexity – doubtless derived from the judicious use of
reserve wines and extended lees ageing.”
Agreeing, fellow judges Patricia Stefanowicz MW observed that “Champagne will never be
inexpensive, and finding a number of exciting wines at the lower end of the £30-50 bracket
with appealing fruit and fresh croissant or brioche accents, was a delight. Above £50 the Brut
NV wines are excellent, and so they should be.”
It was with the move to the vintage category that our first Masters were awarded – an
accolade reserved for those wines that are exceptional – with producers Joseph Perrier, Piper-
Heidsieck and Henriot the sources of “wow-factor” fizz, to use Stefanowicz’s description for
the best samples. Taking in harvests from 2014 back to 2006, it was notable how good the
2012s are, while the 2014s are showing their quality potential too. Recording the presence of
“gems”; “A cluster of wines showed evidence of having been vinified from top quality fruit
and then aged to add complexity and harmony,” Pedley said that this part of the Champagne
offer is where the quality-to-price ratio seems to be highest. By way of explanation for this, he
said, “With many houses focusing on Prestige Cuvées and other trendy things like Blanc de
Blancs, standard Vintage seems to have become a quiet bye water where the consumer can
pick up some excellent wines for sensible prices.”
Dealing next with the top-end expressions, Prestige Cuvée Champagne, there were more
outstanding wines from the 2012 harvest, but also the first rate 2008, and, for a younger fizz,
the relatively underrated 2013 vintage. Master-level quality was tasted from Deutz, Perrier-
Jouët and Rare, as well as the multi-vintage flagship from Laurent-Perrier, called Grand
Siecle, now carrying an edition number so one can find out the base wines and gauge the age
of the fizz. Other delicious wines – if not quite Masters – hailed from some growercooperative
producers, with Nicolas Feuillatte, Palmer and Castelnau picking up Golds, the
latter for an exciting late-release from 2000 in magnum. Underrated names for greatness in
this upmarket sphere included GH Mumm – it’s Lalou 2006 is delicious – and Pommery,
whose Cuvée Louise is certainly a connoisseur’s prestige cuvée. Speaking generally about this
category, Pedley recorded “glorious honeyed aromas and great length on the palate,” and
“angina inducing prices to match.”