B O R N T O 80 DEPARTURES A weeklong adventure through Argentinian Patagonia with one of South America’s most sought-after guides offers a breathtaking perspective on emerald lakes, dramatic mountain passes and endless pampas in one of the most remote parts of the world. by Debbie Pappyn Photographs by David De Vleeschauwer
R O A M Jakob von Plessen looking out over dramatic scenery on the way to the Pass of Tears tight and lean back,” “SIT Jakob shouts over the whistling wind. “Let the horse do her thing!” The paths we are riding here in deepest Patagonia – high, dramatic and dizzyingly narrow – were built by our guide himself. They lead to secret places between the peaks, through valleys and unspoilt forest, each a little treasure the riders feel they have discovered themselves (with the help of their strong-minded equine companion). After passing above the tree line, the trek crosses a ridge of volcanic ash as soft and dense as sand, pairing with the oceanic blue of distant Andean lakes for a panorama like no other. Patagonia is one of the last wild corners on the planet, still unmapped in places. Paved roads can only take you so far, so connecting to the landscape on the back of a criollo, the native horse of the Pampas, and riding alongside gauchos turns out to be not just an activity but an authentic lifestyle revolving around the simple but intense joie de vivre of this far-flung region. Jakob von Plessen, founder of Jakotango Riding Safaris, is the unquestioned authority when it comes to leading travellers on horseback into the remotest reaches of Patagonia. Born to Austrian immigrants and raised in the Pampas, von Plessen mixes rugged gaucho tradition with European finesse. Rough and refined at the same time, he developed his guiding career in his 12 years on Kenya’s safari circuit, then returned to Argentina to set up his own company. Riding with Jakotango is the ultimate Argentinian odyssey, with every journey elegantly outfitted by von Plessen himself or one of his fellow guides, all of whom 81 DEPARTURES
