BLACKBOOK PARIS UPDATE A band serenades the crowd at the rock’n’rollinflected Club de l’Arc A light-filled La Reserve suite decked out in subtle earth tones In Saint-Germain, André Saraiva, the street artist-turned-nightlife entrepreneur, has taken over the dancing den Chez Castel (castelparis. com), where the Louboutin red walls are hung with Keith Haring originals and where the same piano that Serge Gainsbourg used to play in the club’s 1960s heyday remains a showpiece. The roving nightclub Le Pom Pon (lepompon.fr), which hosted parties at Art Basel Miami, now has a new home in l’Opera. Under a giant neon P and a portrait of a D R I N K U P ! sleeping tiger, a hipster crowd sweats it out on the basement dance floor. When its finally time to put your head down, do so at La Reserve (lareserve-paris.com), a former palace built by Napoleon’s half-brother. Hotel Costes designer Jacques Garcia has lined the walls in sumptuous silks and giant mirrors scrape the gilded ceilings – it’s round the corner from the Grand Palais and the perfect daytime complement to the French capital’s evening excesses. — Andrew Barker MIXOLOGIST ON THE MOVE While the iconic Ritz Paris has been closed for a multiyear refurbishment (slated to reopen later this year), its Bar Hemingway bartender, Colin Peter Field, has been making the rounds to other drinking dens, like London’s Connaught Bar and New York’s The Mark Restaurant, among others, as a brand ambassador of sorts. His enthusiasm is infectious and his craft even has healing prowess: he asks how you’re feeling and then crafts a cocktail based on your response. For a sore throat, he might serve a drink with warm wood-aged alcohols, like calvados or cognac. He might also add verbena and green tea infusions with ginger. colinpeterfield.com FROM TOP: THOMAS DORN/LAIF, © LA RESERVE, RICK WENNER; CAFFE STERN: FAUSTO MAZZA (4), KEVIN SU/IMAGEBRIEF.COM (BOTTOM RIGHT) 20 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
S C E N E A N D H E A R D The Hautest Table in Town The Philippe Starck-enhanced Caffé Stern has become Paris’s restaurant du jour Clockwise from top left: Caffé Stern’s exterior along the Passage des Panoramas arcade; dark woods and metal tables make for a rustic vibe; the cafe’s hat room, where Philippe Starck used vintage hats as lampshades behind the banquette; an intimate drink under an eclectic collection of curios F or almost two centuries, Stern Graveur was a letterpress printer to the international elite on the Passage des Panoramas arcade, one of those only-in-Paris institutions suspended in its own aspic, as if unchanged. Madame Stern, gravel-voiced and bird-sized, the fifth generation in charge, would ask to see your handwriting before designing a card. The ancien régime still holds sway in Paris, so it was a surprise when, six years after the letterpress had closed and the Stern family had moved to an unremarkable location on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the premises became a restaurant. The blow would have landed harder if it hadn’t been this particular restaurant, Caffé Stern. Local partner David Lanher has proven with the city’s Racines and Vivant, both restaurants with a wealth of historic decor, that he knows how to leave architectural flair well enough alone. Stern Graveur’s Tudor Revival wood panelling and cuir de Cordoue wall coverings remain, with a dusting of decor by Philippe Starck (a bit of bejewelled taxidermy here, a chrome bistro chair there). The kitchen is under the direction of chef Massimiliano Alajmo, who is based in Padua, Italy. Since opening last autumn, Caffé Stern has been the rage among the local film and fashion types. (Lanvin Homme’s Lucas Ossen drijver was at a table one night.) Considering the restaurant’s variety-free, carefully rendered menu, it’s perfectly acceptable to come for the decor and stay for the scene – the feeling in the room is électrique. caffestern.fr ♦ — Alexandra Marshall DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM 21
Clockwise from left: one of the hot
Bottling, brewing and barrel-ageing
Passing through, Delbeck had planne
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