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MODE ECCELLENZASede di CorridoniaBoutique in Via Montenapoleone, Milanoreputazione e fatturato fino ai 58 milioni di euro del 2013, chesi autofinanzia da sempre e ha testato per anni l’ingresso nellacalzatura femminile per essere sicura di portarvi un tratto distintivo,è chiuso nel rapporto speciale fra Giuseppe e Andrea, figlioe padre. Giuseppe, azzimato, collezionista di orologi così espertoche la IWC - dopo aver siglato una partnership con l’azienda- l’ha voluto come proprio ambasciatore, guidatore abbastanzain gamba da essersi assicurato una commessa anche da Mercedesper una linea di scarpe con suola in carbonio destinate allacompetizione professionale. Andrea è invece di poche parole;uno di quegli uomini ‘tutti d’un pezzo’, come si diceva ai tempiin cui gli uomini portavano i capelli con la sfumatura alta che luitiene tuttora. Andrea Santoni si può trovare sempre in laboratorio,mentre controlla le cuciture, oppure segue il delicato lavorodi velatura a mano eseguito da un gruppo di ragazze assuntedalle scuole d’arte, che mescolano colori come se preparasseroil fondo di uno degli affreschi della zona, o ancora discute conSilvano Sollini, il capomodellista storico, collaboratore fin dagliesordi, che segna in un quaderno tutte le variazioni e le miglioriesu ogni singolo modello, oltre ai dettagli delle calzature sumisura. Mentre Andrea lascia Corridonia raramente, Giuseppeviaggia senza sosta, ma è evidente che le decisioni si prendanoqui, in questo laboratorio che è il primo punto d’arrivo diun’impresa iniziata, come tante altre storie italiane, nel garageneur, even a bit cocky, and suddenly you see him blush withcontentment over an omelette. Then you realise the secret ofthis company. In a relatively short time, it has increased its reputation,and turnover rose to 58 million euro in 2013. It hasalways been self-financing and for years has introduced women’sfootwear, making it distinctive. Its secret is the special relationshipbetween Andrea and Giuseppe, father and son. Giuseppeis dapper, and such an expert watch collector that IWC- after having signed a partnership with the company - wantedhim as its ambassador. He’s also a smart driver, and has secureda contract from Mercedes for a line of carbon-soled shoesfor professional competition. Andrea is a man of few words, “allof a piece”, from the days when men sported the pompadourhairstyle he still favours. Andrea Santoni can always be foundin the workshop, checking seams, or overseeing the delicatetask of hand-veiling performed by a group of girls recruitedfrom art schools, blending colours like the background of oneof the frescoes in the area. Or discussing with Silvano Sollini,the head pattern-maker and collaborator since the beginning,who marks all the changes and improvements on each modelin a notebook, along with the details of custom-made footwear.Though Andrea rarely leaves Corridonia, Giuseppe travelsnon-stop, but it’s clear that decisions are made here, in this workshop,in a business, like so many others in Italy, that began inthe garage of the home. In the ‘70s, when Milan was plaguedby terrorist violence, in peaceful Corridonia, Andrea Santoni -foreman in a machine-operated footwear company - dreamt ofmaking shoes by hand. His wife Rosa sewed wedding dresses,but was willing to follow her husband in the enterprise. With theliquidation settlement, they bought a few machines and hiredthe first hemmers. Andrea Santoni immediately began to patentmethods of shoe construction; soles and heels were lathed individually,aware of the posture damage that even an error ofa millimetre can cause. Every day, Giuseppe came back fromlessons at the Technical Institute for accountants and slippedinto the workshop. “I never thought of doing anything else”,he says, and although he can still hem a shoe alone (knowinghow to make what you sell typical of a certain kind of internationalentrepreneurship), he immediately engaged in foreignrelations: as an adolescent, translating faxes from the USA; asa fresh graduate he became sole director, opening up one marketafter another: “Japan, first, and then Hong Kong, Taiwanand China. The Americans taught me to respect deadlines, but Istarted out with a great product, and I knew how to promote it”.In 1990, fifteen years after the company’s debut, it moved to its“Candela”, sandalo con cinturino alla caviglia30 ULISSE OTTOBRE 2014