Ulisse_mar

LOWER LAZIO: ON A THREAD
OF WATER
Frosinone, in southern Lazio, is the heart
of Ciociaria. The name comes from a type
of leather sandal, called “ciocia”, sturdy
footwear that was used since ancient times,
and was useful for moving about in
this wild territory. This sense of place can
still be felt by newcomers: the lush natural
surroundings are to be explored by hiking
through vast pinewoods and chestnut groves.
There are lakes and nature reserves,
including Canterno, the favoured habitat
for dozens of bird species. The area isn’t far
from another basin, in Fiuggi, a medieval
village with narrow streets, churches, houses
and stone steps. Fiuggi is famous for its
beneficial water, filtered through a volcanic
layer and enriched during its flow with healthful
minerals. Seawater and nature are
the watchwords in the Circeo National
Park, nestled between San Felice Circeo
and Sabaudia. It is surrounded by the largest
lowland forest in Italy, an expanse of
Mediterranean scrub, wild lilies and canebrakes
that provide shelter for roe deer,
foxes and wild boars. But the real attraction
is the crescent-shaped coastal dune,
200 metres wide and up to 30 metres high
at some points. It can be reached using the
bridge that crosses Lake Paola to Sabaudia.
Facing the dune are historic beach resorts,
including Saporetti, opened in 1958,
and free beaches that inspired writers like
Arbasino and such film directors as Antonioni
and Bertolucci. The latter’s “La
Luna” was shot here, and he loved strolling
at sunset with the painter Mario Schifano.
Admire the landscape by visiting the Literary
Park dedicated to Homer. It lies below
Monte Circeo, the setting for the adventures
of Circe, the sorceress in the epic poem
“The Odyssey” who bewitched Ulysses
and his companions. Parco di Omero also
includes the Pontine Marshes, Terracina
with the Roman ruins of the Temple of Jupiter
Anxur, the Fonte Feronia named for
a woodland deity, and the ancient city of
Satrico, with ruins of the Temple of Mater
Matuta, the pre-Roman goddess of dawn
and light.
La vista del litorale di Sabaudia dal picco di Circe
foto Giuseppe Stolfa
Veduta di Terracina - Latina
Terme
ULISSE MARZO 2015 77