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Molina, a Mediaeval<br />

Hamlet where<br />

Illustrious Men<br />

were weaned<br />

Imagine an evocative little square, framed between<br />

ancient s<strong>to</strong>ne houses, at the end of which a<br />

centuries-old flight of steps seems <strong>to</strong> begin its<br />

apparently endless ascent up <strong>to</strong> the sky... In the<br />

winding little alley it’s as if time had s<strong>to</strong>od still, and<br />

the buildings speak <strong>to</strong> us of the every<strong>da</strong>y activities<br />

of the <strong>com</strong>mon people and, at the same time, of the<br />

presence of noble families. In one of these, with<br />

an acutely arched door, remains – intact – the fine<br />

base, possibly hewn out of the rock there, seeing<br />

its massive weight and size, of an old press. On<br />

the left-hand side of the square an arch marks the<br />

beginning of what, just under a thousand years ago,<br />

used <strong>to</strong> be the Stra<strong>da</strong> Regia from Como <strong>to</strong> Bellagio,<br />

which passed over the high ground <strong>to</strong> avoid the<br />

steep, impossible terrain near the lake.<br />

Once you’re through the arch, look in front of you<br />

at a large fossil on the façade of a house testifying<br />

(as often occurs in this area) <strong>to</strong> the enormous<br />

orographic movements millions of years ago which<br />

produced the Alps and their Foothills and forced<br />

back the sea, which was then fairly close. Just<br />

ahead don’t miss the washing and drinking fountain<br />

(1860), embellished by four pillars of local volcanic<br />

granite carved with tenacity by s<strong>to</strong>ne-workers,<br />

known as ‘scalpellini’.<br />

Molina offers views it is envied for: <strong>to</strong> the West over<br />

Lake Como, <strong>to</strong> the East mountain <strong>to</strong>ps, ahead the<br />

twin hamlets of Lemna and Palanzo. Yet it is also in<br />

a protected position – it was spared the disastrous<br />

flood of 3 rd Oc<strong>to</strong>ber 1841.<br />

The Molina Brook (hence the place name) was up <strong>to</strong><br />

the 19 th century peppered with fac<strong>to</strong>ry works, from<br />

which <strong>com</strong>es the name Molino Valley. Nowa<strong>da</strong>ys<br />

it’s a hamlet of Fagge<strong>to</strong> Lario, a municipality on the<br />

shores of the Lario and one-time working port for<br />

the old <strong>com</strong>balli, the sailing boats used for shipping<br />

goods, heavy materials and cattle along the lake’s<br />

waterways. The signpost just after Torno on the<br />

‘Lariana’ linking Como <strong>to</strong> Bellagio and on <strong>to</strong> Lecco,<br />

marks the beginning of the road which in fact climbs<br />

up <strong>to</strong> the Valle del Molino.<br />

Walking through this little corner of an ‘ancient<br />

world’, you feel its charm; but who would imagine<br />

that from these four houses more than one<br />

illustrious name born here would set out on the<br />

road <strong>to</strong> glory. From the many we have chosen<br />

– emblematically – Carlo Pizzala (1803 – 1868), who<br />

would be<strong>com</strong>e jeweller <strong>to</strong> the Spanish Court – but<br />

that’s not all. Queen Isabella <strong>com</strong>missioned him<br />

<strong>to</strong> make a special papal tiara which Pious IX used<br />

in the his<strong>to</strong>ric ceremony defining the dogma of the<br />

Immaculate Conception, on 8 th December 1854 in<br />

St. Peter’s in Rome.<br />

Of the minor (but no less significant) personages,<br />

there’s a certain Pietro Casarino, also from Molina,<br />

who emigrated <strong>to</strong> Montevideo, where he would<br />

take in fellow countrymen in trouble. And his house<br />

Nelle pagine precedenti,<br />

la piazzetta di<br />

Sant’An<strong>to</strong>nio, sulla<br />

quale si affaccia l’Antica<br />

Hostaria Molina. Sopra e<br />

a destra, due suggestivi<br />

scorci del borgo<br />

medievale di Molina<br />

e Villa Pra<strong>da</strong><br />

On the previous<br />

pages, the little square<br />

dedicated <strong>to</strong> St. An<strong>to</strong>nio<br />

with the Antica<br />

Hostaria Molina.<br />

Above and right, two<br />

suggestive perspective<br />

of the Mediaeval<br />

Hamlet of Molina and<br />

Villa Pra<strong>da</strong><br />

Una suggestiva piazzetta chiaramente medievale,<br />

incorniciata <strong>da</strong> antiche case di pietra, sul cui sfondo<br />

inizia una plurisecolare gradinata che pare salire verso<br />

il cielo, <strong>com</strong>e se fosse senza fine. Nei <strong>to</strong>rtuosi vicoli il<br />

tempo è <strong>com</strong>e se si fosse ferma<strong>to</strong>, gli edifici parlano<br />

di attività popolane e, nel contempo, di presenza<br />

di famiglie gentilizie. In uno di essi, con la porta a<br />

rarissimo ses<strong>to</strong> acu<strong>to</strong>, è conserva<strong>to</strong> un prezioso<br />

basamen<strong>to</strong>, forse scava<strong>to</strong> sul pos<strong>to</strong> nella roccia, visti il<br />

peso e la mole, di un vecchio <strong>to</strong>rchio. Sulla sinistra della<br />

piazza un arco segna l’inizio di quella che, poco meno<br />

di un migliaio di anni fa, era la Stra<strong>da</strong> Regia, <strong>da</strong> Como<br />

a Bellagio, passando per le alture, evitando le impervie<br />

rive scoscese del lago.<br />

Supera<strong>to</strong> l’arco, di fronte, va nota<strong>to</strong> un grosso<br />

fossile sulla facciata di una casa, testimonianza non<br />

infrequente in zona degli immani movimenti orografici,<br />

milioni di anni fa, che hanno <strong>da</strong><strong>to</strong> origine alle Alpi e<br />

alle Prealpi, facendo arretrare il mare, che non era poi<br />

così lontano. Da osservare, poco più avanti, la fontana<br />

lava<strong>to</strong>io e abbevera<strong>to</strong>io (1860) ingentilita <strong>da</strong> quattro<br />

pilastri di ghiandone locale, tenacemente lavora<strong>to</strong> <strong>da</strong>i<br />

“picapedra”, gli scalpellini.<br />

Molina è in un’invidiabile posizione panoramica, a Ovest<br />

sul lago, a Est sulle cime, <strong>da</strong>vanti ai borghi gemelli<br />

Lemna e Palanzo. Ma è anche in un pun<strong>to</strong> protet<strong>to</strong>, <strong>da</strong><strong>to</strong><br />

che fu risparmiata <strong>da</strong>lla devastante alluvione<br />

del 3 ot<strong>to</strong>bre 1841.<br />

Il <strong>to</strong>rrente Molina, <strong>da</strong> cui il <strong>to</strong>ponimo, fino al XIX secolo<br />

era costella<strong>to</strong> di opifici e <strong>da</strong> qui il nome Valle del Molino.<br />

Oggi è frazione di Fagge<strong>to</strong> Lario, <strong>com</strong>une in riva al<br />

lago e un tempo por<strong>to</strong> operativo dei vecchi <strong>com</strong>balli, i<br />

barconi a vela per i trasporti di merci, materiali pesanti<br />

e bestiame lungo le idrovie lacustri. Il cartello stra<strong>da</strong>le<br />

sulla Lariana, che collega Como a Bellagio e <strong>da</strong> qui a<br />

Lecco, poco dopo Torno, segnala l’inizio della stra<strong>da</strong><br />

che sale appun<strong>to</strong> alla Valle del Molino.<br />

Camminando in ques<strong>to</strong> pezzet<strong>to</strong> di “mondo antico” se<br />

ne percepisce il fascino, ma nessuno immaginerebbe<br />

che <strong>da</strong> queste quattro case sono partiti verso la gloria<br />

non pochi nomi illustri nati qui. Tra i tanti noi abbiamo<br />

scel<strong>to</strong>, emblematicamente, Carlo Pizzala (1803-1868),<br />

diventa<strong>to</strong> orefice alla Corte di Spagna. Ma c’è di più.<br />

La regina Isabella gli <strong>com</strong>missionò il triregno, una<br />

tiara speciale, che Pio IX usò nella s<strong>to</strong>rica cerimonia di<br />

definizione del dogma della Immacolata Concezione, l’8<br />

VILLA PRADA<br />

Tra i tanti nomi illustri legati a<br />

Molina è <strong>da</strong> ricor<strong>da</strong>re anche la<br />

famiglia Pra<strong>da</strong>, il marchio no<strong>to</strong> in<br />

tut<strong>to</strong> il mondo per le sue eleganti<br />

creazioni. A Molina vi è via Mario<br />

Pra<strong>da</strong> - fon<strong>da</strong><strong>to</strong>re del marchio<br />

Pra<strong>da</strong> nel 1913 - una splendi<strong>da</strong><br />

passeggiata panoramica che<br />

costeggia la villa Pra<strong>da</strong> (nella<br />

fo<strong>to</strong> a sinistra), dove si recano<br />

ancora oggi dei parenti della<br />

famosa Miuccia. Miuccia Pra<strong>da</strong>,<br />

nipote di Mario, ereditò l’azien<strong>da</strong><br />

nel 1978 e sviluppò il marchio a<br />

livello internazionale. Sempre in<br />

via Mario Pra<strong>da</strong> si trova anche<br />

il Bed&Breakfast “Le Ortensie”<br />

tel.349.8638757.<br />

VILLA PRADA<br />

Beetween the illustrious men<br />

bounded <strong>to</strong> Molina there is Pra<strong>da</strong>’s<br />

family. Pra<strong>da</strong> is recognized<br />

worldwide for its elegant<br />

creations. In Molina there is Via<br />

Mario Pra<strong>da</strong> - the founder of the<br />

Pra<strong>da</strong> label in 1913 - a wonderful<br />

panoramic promenade that run<br />

along Villa Pra<strong>da</strong> (in the pho<strong>to</strong> on<br />

the left) and where still <strong>to</strong><strong>da</strong>y live<br />

relatives of the famous Miuccia.<br />

Mario’s grand<strong>da</strong>ughter, Miuccia<br />

Pra<strong>da</strong>, <strong>to</strong>ok over the <strong>com</strong>pany in<br />

1978, and developed the brand at<br />

an international level. In Via Pra<strong>da</strong><br />

there is even a Bed&Breakfast<br />

called “Le Ortensie” telephone:<br />

349.8638757.<br />

52 53

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