mastro Orso

You will discover the Adda,
the big Valtellina river,
lulled by its gurgling waters and
accompanied by the branches of
shrubs, full of shoots after the
winter. This scenery has a rare
beauty, a place between mountains
and plains, rivers and lake,
seclusion and cities. The land is
embellished by rumbling waterfalls
and silent villages built with
wood and stone, around a reassuring
bell tower: the area reveals
ancient tracks that, today,
can be followed safely either on
foot or on a bicycle, either along
the Adda River, from Colico to
Grosio, or coasting the Mera
River. Enjoy a sportive weekend
among natural beauties!
124 Natural beauties with historic flavours • The Province of Sondrio
The Valtellina track – 1 st stage
The first route recommended
starts from Colico, from which
you easily reach the bank of the
Adda River, towards Sondrio.
You will leave the meadows of
Pian di Spagna behind, whose
name recalls the seventeenth century
Spanish domination. Then,
you will arrive in Morbegno, the
town of “Bitto”, the most renowned
of the local cheeses. In
Ardenno, the picturesque Collegiata
di San Lorenzo is worth a
short visit: its heavy Romanesque
walls guard a sixteenth century
wooden altarpiece. Go back on
your bicycle and ride among the
Valtellina vineyards: on the
Triassic side, the cultivated terraces
reveal the age-old bond between
man and nature: the human
labour is rewarded with the
sweet gods’ nectar: the Sassella
wine. In Sondrio, the unrivalled
capital of the province, the Museo
Valtellinese di Storia e Arte
is worth a visit. It is housed in
the historical Palazzo Sassi de’
Lavizzari.
The Valtellina track – 2 nd stage
Along this second stage, you will
find a highland landscape. Grosio,
for example, an ancient village
nestled at the border of the
last vineyards, is almost 700
metre high. The cycle route continues
either within its own track
or along byroads with almost no
vehicular traffic, so you can fully
enjoy your trip. On the left,
you will see the mass of the FAI
owned Castel Grumello, which
overlooks the middle of the valley.
You will coast the Adda
River most of the time and only
rarely you will pass by some
urban areas, which are always
very close (even if sometimes
you need to ride along steep
stretches!): Teglio is particularly
worth a detour, with Palazzo
Besta, one of the best examples
of Valtellina mansions. Palazzo
Salis, within the historic centre
of Tirano, is another gem. From
the train station of Tirano you
may leave for a pleasant trip to
Passo Bernina and St. Moritz.
The remaining kilometres can
be covered very easily towards
Grosio, even though the more
athletic ones might want to chew
also some dirt patches: from Val
Grosina to the remarkable climb
towards Passo del Mortirolo,
with an impressive 18 % slope.
The plain of Chiavenna
The plain of Chiavenna is surrounded
by towering mountains
(more than 2,000 metre high).
You will be surprised by the width
and the sincere rural character of
the area, with vast ploughed fields
and grazing lands: an ideal setting
for a postcard to bring the
Po countryside to memory. The
cycle-fans will be delighted in this
scenario and greeted by an interesting
circular route. Leaving
from Verceia, you will ride along
the quiet old national road (the
traffic is now taken up by an alternative
road through a tunnel)
and then along a charming cycle
track that leads you to Novate
Mezzola. From here, you will
soon reach the fork of the two
routes: the flowing waters of the
Mera River are the first part of
the route while, on the way back,
you will ride along the railway
(those who are too tired can take
the train loading their bicycles).
The two routes join before arriving
to Prata Camportaccio,
which is separated from Chiavenna
by a delightful and idyllic
route. Chiavenna is an artistic
and cultural centre, with wellkept
reminders of its ancient
glamour: ancient façades, ollar
stone portals and fountains amid
picturesque little squares that will
reward your fatigues. Parks and
museums will also await you,
rendering this city one of the most
interesting of the Lombard Alps.
The Val Bregaglia
Two vales meet in Chiavenna.
They host two roads that have
made the fortune of this urban
area. Proceeding northward,
you will reach Passo dello
Spluga, either by car or through
an excursion route that winds
along Via Spluga. A cycle track
runs eastward side by side with
the road that, through Passo del
Maloja, leads to St. Moritz: you
are in Val Bregaglia, an area for
which Italy and Switzerland
fought in the past; it still retains
something of the two countries.
Palazzo Vertemati Franchi in
Piuro and the Riserva Naturale
delle Marmitte dei Giganti are
the best examples of the excellent
natural and cultural gifts of
which the area is provided, along
with the waterfall Cascata dell’Acquafraggia,
nearby. But let’s
go back to your route, which after
S. Croce has a quite demanding
stretch in store. Afterwards,
you will be rewarded
once you have arrived in Villa di
Chiavenna: the vale is now
rough and craggy, thrilling the
nature lovers who will be driven
to continue to ride towards the
other side of the border.
• Sotto:
il Santuario
della Madonna
di Tirano con
l’imponente
campanile
• Below:
the Santuario
della Madonna
di Tirano with
its imposing
bell tower
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