mastro Orso

It’s almost like a straight line
that cuts western Lombardy
vertically, joining the northern
Varese province to the southern
Pavia province. The Lugano
Lake, the delightful Varese, the
Ticino River, the Navigli, and
the towers of Pavia: these are
only some of the companions
along the pilgrim’s Route, an
itinerary of more than 150 km,
divided in four stages. Ride your
bicycle to discover historic and
splendid views.
The verdant Valganna
Porto Ceresio – the starting
point of our route – is a short
walk from the Swiss border, nestled
on the most southern tip of
Lugano Lake. While you are cycling
on the coast road along the
basin called by the Romans
Ceresium, “bluer than the sky”
due to the colour of its waters,
you will be surrounded by lush
and relaxing landscape all the
way to Ghirla.
The village is embellished by the
homonymous lake – a small expanse
of water that is only 24
hectare wide – and the murales
representing old trades and local
traditions. After a pleasant descent,
Valganna, the eastern
border of the Campo dei Fiori
Regional Natural Park will appear
in all its beauty. Here lies
the Abbazia San Gemolo, a former
Benedictine monastery that
dates back to the eleventh century.
The town of Ganna offers
some interesting surprises such
as Villa Tabacchi, where some
plaster casts are exhibited, and
the Liberty mansion owned by
the Calegari family. Afterwards,
the road goes through Brinzio
and then towards Varese: here,
the eighteenth century Palazzo
Estense surrounded by famous
gardens and Sacro Monte, one
of the Italian biggest and refined
examples of “holy routes”, are
definitely worth a visit.
The three lakes
Moving westward, you will discover
a group of four small morainal
lakes, a cradle of both prehistoric
villages built on piles and
resorts owned by noble families
from Milan. The landscape was
loved by eighteen century painters.
After Bodio and its seventeenth
century Villa Bossi, you
will ride to the Comacchio basin,
which was previously linked
to the Lake Varese. The Palude
Brabbia, a wide wetland and a
sanctuary, is what remains of
the ancient strait. Further down
the valley, is Sesto Calende where
the Ticino River exits the Lake
Maggiore. Along the leafy riverside
you will see an imposing
two-storey iron bridge.
The Parco del Ticino
This part of the route will mesmerize
you with the slow and
elegant Ticino River that leaves
the Lake Maggiore basin flowing
towards Pavia where it joins the
Po River. The tour of the prehistoric
tombs of Monsorino starts
from Golasecca, a wide archaeological
site, which dates back
to the Iron Age, with the ruins
from the eastern Piedmont prealpine
and the western Lombardian
area.
Following the Ticino towpath,
the route is shaped by the river’s
bends and merges into the Canale
Villoresi, enlarging the river
flow in this part of the countryside.
In this stretch the Naviglio
Canal becomes more winding
and pleasant, surrounded
by lush vegetation and elegant
villas, such as the Clerici’s mansion,
near the seventeen century
Cuggiono bridge.
The mansion is embellished by
an idyllic garden that stretches
up to the pier, with five rows of
balustrade terraces. After the villages
of Bernate, Boffalora and
Ponte Vecchio, you will arrive
in Robecco sul Naviglio, where
the battlemented outline of Villa
Archinto stands out among the
greenery.
The Naviglio di Bereguardo
The first paddy-field estates come
into sight if you proceed
south-westward; they are typical
of the Lomellina area nearby.
You will cycle through the ingenious
systems of basins that
used to link Castelletto di Abbiategrasso
and Pavia through
water. From Caselle d’Ozzero,
you will immediately arrive in
front of the Abbazia di Morimondo,
founded on the 1136 by
the Cistercian monks of Morimondo.
Close to the monastery,
there is the abbey church of Santa
Maria; its architecture is inspired
by the typical style of the
holy Gothic-Burgundian buildings.
You will enter the Pavese
province greeted by paddy fields,
water meadows and age-old farmsteads.
Here the river irrigation
is vital. On the left river
bank, you will enter the covered
bridge and arrive in the heart of
the capital of the province.
• Sotto:
sguardo sul
Lago di Varese
• Below:
a view over the
Lake Varese
18 On the trail of faith • The pilgrims’route
19