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SCRUCCHIATA GRAPE JAM
This is a dark purple grape conserve, smooth and quite compact, typically
lightly with a tart after-taste, sometimes slightly sour. It is traditionally
obtained from the grapes of the autochthonous black Montepulciano grape,
harvested when past the best stage of ripeness. There is no doubt that this
type of grape jam has a long tradition of home production, passed down for
many generations by word of mouth. Nonetheless, the jam’s lengthy history
can be confirmed as it is made with historical utensils like the “pelliccio-
PROCESSING AND CONSERVATION METHODS
The grapes must be in good health and it is best to choose slightly sparse bunches.
Grapes are picked by hand, one by one, to avoid damage. There are two preparation
methods that can be followed:
1) The first method is to choose and wash whole grapes, place them on a sieve with a
medium-sized mesh, where the grape pips are separated by hand from the flesh and the
skins (in the past this was done by crushing the grapes one by one between the thumb
and forefinger in order to eliminate the grape pips, an operation called “scrocchiatura”
and which gives the jam its dialect name), then the product is cooked over a low flame,
adding sugar according to requirements, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon,
until it is cooked.
2) The second method involves whole washed and selected grapes being put in a pan
and heated on the stove. As the product heats up it is stirred with a wooden spoon to
begin breaking the first grapes so the must comes out. Once boiling point has been
reached, the pan is left to simmer on a low flame, continuing to stir to prevent the mixture
sticking and to obtain a smooth consistency. After about two hours the heat is
turned off and the pan is left cool (the old recipe, even for small quantities, required two
days: one for cooking and the second for processing the jam). Once the mixture is cool,
it is sieved through the “pellicciola” (a special device of concentric rings of copper and
steel, supported by spokes and a wooden frame). Over the last decades this implement
la” (a type of sieve) that can still be purchased in local markets, as well as
by testimonies recorded in various localities like Lettomanoppello (Pe),
Vittorito (Aq), Miglianico (Ch), Roseto degli Abruzzi (Te). A further confirmation
of the long history of this product is linked to its main use as a filling in
some typical regional pastries such as “calcionetti” and “neole” at
Christmas, or with the addition of suitably chopped almonds as an ingredient
in the preparation of traditional pastries in various Abruzzo towns.
has often been replaced by a grinder. The sieving process is done by hand, to separate
all the grape pips. Then the mixture is returned to a low flame, with the addition of
sugar as required, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until cooking is complete.
The mixture obtained in this way is quite thick (one fifth or one eighth of the weight of
the initial grapes) and sufficiently smooth and thick, with some skins present. The jam
is put in glass jars, then sterilised by cooking in a bain marie, so that it can be preserved
for over a year.
Materials and equipment: the materials, equipment and premises used for production
must comply with Legislative Decree 155, 26 May, 1997. In particular, reference must be
made to Chapter V and Chapter VIII of the attachment to the aforementioned Decree Law,
published in the Normal Supplement to the Official Gazette dated 13.06.1997, General
Series 136.
Stainless steel or copper pans (as long as they are compliant with current regulations
applied to materials that will come into contact with foodstuffs), typical kitchen utensils
(grinder, sieve, ladle), glass.
Processing and conservation premises: the premises used for production must
comply with Legislative Decree 155, 26 May, 1997. In particular, reference must be
made to Chapter I and Chapter Il of the attachment to the aforementioned Decree Law,
published in the Normal Supplement to the Official Gazette dated 13.06.1997, General
Series 136.
NATURAL OR TRANSFORMED VEGETABLE PRODUCTS 233