SICILY

from which the precious substance flows.
Production is now very small but worthy
of note. Notable, too, is the provola of the
Madonie, a cheese produced from the milk
of cows grazing on the mountains of the
zone. It is a fine, ball-shaped cheese, with
a smooth, thin rind of strawy yellow colour
and a sweet, delicate flavour. It goes very
well with the excellent bread of the zone,
made of durum wheat using natural yeast
(lu criscenti) and baked in a wooden oven.
When fresh it is well matched with light, dry
wines, including whites (try it with Inzolia);
when long-matured it goes excellently
with a classic Nero d’Avola. Also from the
Palermo zone is the splendid caciocavallo,
a cheese still entirely hand-produced. With
its unusual parallelepiped shape it becomes
more and more flavoursome as it matures.
Turning to pulses, the Palermo zone also
produces the badda bean of Polizzi, a small
municipality inside the Parco delle Madonie.
Of medium-small size, it is called “Badda”,
which means “ball” in dialect, on account of
its rounded shape. It has a unique colouring:
indeed, it is bi-coloured. Sometimes it grows
Great wines
from Monreale
The “stigghiola”, a typical dish from Sicily
and Palermo in particular, is made from lamb
intestines (as well as goat or chicken).
a delicate ivory colour with pink and orange
streaks, sometimes it is ivory with streaks
that are a dark violet, almost black. It has
a fine savoury taste, with a herbal, even
brackish touch.
Ripening in the conca d’oro are the
excellent late mandarins of Ciaculli, a
well-known village in the Palermo zone.
Protected by the Consortium named after
it, the Tardivo di Ciaculli has a strong
fragrance and a high sugar content, a
juicy pulp and low seed content. A truly
unique, inimitable fruit. Still on the subject
of fruit, let us not forget the white damson
of Monreale, also known locally as the
ariddu di core (heart-shaped seed), which is
suitable for various types of conservation,
or the sanacore, suitable for eating as a
fresh fruit. The latter are gathered in July
and August, while the former are harvested
late and are appreciated for their high
sugary content.
Monreale DOC is a fairly recent designation
and was recognized in 2000 in the
production area covering the municipal
territories of Camporeale, San Giuseppe
Jato, San Cipirello, Santa Cristina Gela,
Corleone and Roccamena and a part of
that of Monreale and Piana degli Albanesi.
It is produced in white (including superior
and late harvest), red (including young and
reserve) and rosé typologies from classic
100% Made in Sicily
grapes of the Palermo area: Ansonica or
Inzolia, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Grillo, Pinot
Bianco, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d’Avola,
Merlot, Perricone, Pinot Nero, Sangiovese
and Syrah.
Tasting Sicily n.01/2013 33