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26<br />

100% Made in Sicily<br />

Capers, herbs<br />

and great cuisine<br />

Pantelleria is not just sea. It is also a vast<br />

range of typical local products, starting<br />

from the highly aromatic local basil and the<br />

oregano of Pantelleria. Basic ingredients for<br />

making the island’s famous pesto, used to<br />

flavour pasta, as well as with roast fish (better<br />

still grilled) or boiled meats.<br />

And then there are the celebrated capers,<br />

recognized as an IGP (protected geographical<br />

designation), which need to be conserved in<br />

sea salt. In this way they keep for years their<br />

intense, strong and penetrating flavour, which<br />

gives them a leading role in a series of dishes<br />

ranging from hors d’oeuvres (bruschetta<br />

ai capperi) to starters (pesto alla Pantesca<br />

crudo) and main dishes (baked swordfish).<br />

Highly flavoured, too, are the island’s wild<br />

rabbits, the delicate Tumma (the local fresh<br />

cheese) and Baci (“kisses”), typical local<br />

pastries filled with ricotta cheese.<br />

Such is the quality of the Passito di<br />

Pantelleria that the DOC dates back as<br />

far as 1971. It is scarcely surprising that<br />

recognition came so soon. The Passito<br />

had already impressed at the 1900 Paris<br />

Exhibition, and in 1936 it was included<br />

among typical Italian wines for its “delicate,<br />

refined fragrance and its velvety, sweet,<br />

caressing and generous flavour”.<br />

Various legends have grown up around the<br />

Passito, such as that of the Goddess Tanit<br />

who disguised herself as the cupbearer<br />

of the Gods and replaced Ambrosia, the<br />

habitual drink of Olympus, with the must<br />

of the vines of Pantelleria, thereby winning<br />

Apollo, with whom she was in love.<br />

This Sicilian wine is a perfect<br />

accompaniment for blue cheeses, cassata<br />

(a Sicilian dessert) and baci panteschi<br />

(the local fritters). It should be served<br />

at a temperature of around 10-12 °C in<br />

medium-sized tulip wine-glass. The fortified<br />

version is a wine for meditation which may<br />

be tasted with blue cheeses and typical<br />

Sicilian desserts such as the cassata, and<br />

should be served in small tulip wine-glasses<br />

at 12-14°C.<br />

Passito di Pantelleria is a golden-yellow<br />

wine, sometimes tending towards amber,<br />

A Zibibbo grape. It was originated<br />

in Egypt and was brought to Pantelleria<br />

by the Phoenicians.<br />

with a typical Muscat bouquet and a sweet,<br />

aromatic and pleasing flavour. The minimum<br />

alcohol level is 20°. The fortified version<br />

is a more or less intense golden yellow,<br />

sometimes tending towards amber, with a<br />

typical, intense bouquet and a sweet, velvety<br />

flavour. The minim alcohol level is 22°.<br />

Grown on a short tree under the scorching<br />

sun of the Mediterranean summer, it owes<br />

Tasting Sicily n.01/2013

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