GG48-FRA-Complet

PAGES 118-130 

OUR SUMMER 

SELECTIONS 

SOUTH AFRICA, 

SPAIN, GREECE, 

ITALY, PROVENCE 

DOMAINE 

MAGALONE 

MAKING PROVENCE 

ROSÉS WIDELY 

AVAILABLE 

L 19045 - 48 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

SUMMER 2022 

Vivien Paulmyer grows his own 

vineyards near Aix-en-Provence

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

12 

44 

64 

7 

En Primeurs 

2021 Bordeaux 

A giant puzzle 

12 

Focus 

Provence: A treasure 

trove of wines to 

discover this summer 

26 

Discovery 

Why Corsica is tippled 

pink 

34 

Style 

Italian rosé enjoys 

exponential growth 

44 

Discovery 

Aragon: Aiming for 

excellence 

54 

History 

A legacy of family wine 

generations in South 

Africa 

64 

Style 

Morgon vs Fleurie: 

rivals or complementary 

appellations? 

74 

Appellation 

Graves, a wine region 

that deserves serious 

consideration 

84 

Region 

Jacquère and Altesse vie 

for A-lister status 

92 

Organic wines 

Tuscany and its ‘natural’ 

aptitude for organic 

viticulture 

102 

Winegrower portraits 

Very Fine Vinos: Looking 

at distribution in a 

different light 

105 

Discovery 

Greece in a glass 

115 

Stars & Wine 

Eva Longoria: “The most 

amazing thing at Cannes 

is the rosé!” 

117 

Contact details 

118 

2022 Summer selection 

South Africa, Spain, 

Greece, Italy, Provence 

105 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Autumn 2022 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

SUMMER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

ITALY SEES ITS WINES THROUGH 

ROSE-COLOURED GLASSES 

Probably unwittingly, Italy has overlooked its rosé 

wines for many years, buoyed by its plethora of 

widely exported, talented reds that have secured its 

reputation across the globe. Who could claim never to 

have ordered a bottle of Chianti in a trattoria? 

Its rosé wine category was long considered a lesser 

genre, but the meteoric rise in still rosé consumption 

over the past few years has been a game-changer. 

Mirroring developments in many other countries, 

including France, Spain and Portugal, Italian rosé 

is now rapidly gaining traction. It can, and will 

become one of the most versatile wines, both from 

an aromatic perspective and for its food pairing 

capabilities. Production has risen in virtually every 

region, including Tuscany and Piedmont – the home 

of age-worthy reds – providing irrefutable evidence 

of the success of pink wines. Its qualities are known 

to all – it is less intimidating than other styles, more 

accessible, more festive and often more affordable. Its 

plus points are endless. 

From a technical point of view, a paradigm shift in 

technology has occurred. Traditionally, the ‘saignée’ 

technique was the most widely used in Italy, but 

this has now been superseded by the direct-to-press 

method. The purpose of this switch is obvious, and 

that is to produce lighter coloured, fresher and more 

savoury wines, following in the confident footsteps 

of Provence. The similarities stop with the colour, 

however, because Italy has an incredible canvas of 

climates, terroirs and grape varieties (often native) to 

work with, from North to South, lending it a range of 

styles and expressions that is second to none. 

4 SUMMER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

JOURNEY TO THE HEART 

OF PROVENCE 

If I had to mention one region, this would be it. 

Provence belongs to a clutch of wine regions where 

a glamorous image fuelled by sunshine, blue skies 

and sea spray in actual fact belies the reality out on 

the ground. Let’s deliberately start with the clichés so 

that they can be put to one side. When someone says 

Provence, which wine do you think about? Probably 

rosé, just like the overwhelming majority of people 

asked the same question. Admittedly, it does account 

for 90% of production. And yet, in our very stringent 

selection of 36 wines from across the region (pages 

128 to 130), there are only 21 rosés, alongside 8 whites 

and 7 reds. This offers irrefutable proof of the fact that 

Provence has many other stories to tell. 

The wine region stretches from the western Bouchesdu-Rhône 

department to Nice, spanning a half-dozen 

appellations as well as some remarkable PGIs, invariably 

producing red, rosé and white wines. These 

include some real gems such as Bandol in Var and 

Bellet, in Alpes-Maritimes, in the far eastern part of 

the region. Just imagine the kind of variety of vineyard 

sites, and consequently styles, that this vast swathe 

of land can produce. On top of this is an incredible 

mosaic of landscapes, some coastal, some mountainous, 

punctuated by iconic mountains such as the 

Sainte-Baume, Sainte-Victoire, Maures and Estérel. 

Provence is all this and more, certainly more than just 

a few ultra-publicised coastal resorts where there is an 

endless flow of rosés at eye-watering prices! So join us 

on an introductory trip to meet those who make wines 

and tend to their vines all year round, day in day out. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

ARAGON SCALES THE 

HEIGHTS OF QUALITY 

This much-coveted region located in the north of 

present-day Spain has been invaded multiple 

times, by assailants travelling from Africa, Northern 

and Eastern Europe. The name Aragón seems to emerge 

for the first time in 828, during the Carolingian period, 

after the name of the river and its tributary, the Aragón 

Subordán, which cuts across the region. In more modern 

times, Aragon became an autonomous community in 

1978, with its powers extended in 1996. These changes 

resulted in a new status in 2007. 

The wine region is home to a number of vineyard sites 

within the autonomous community. It encompasses four 

appellations and six geographical indications under the 

Vinos de la Tierra de Aragón designation. As with other 

provinces, some locations fall within the Cava appellation. 

This is a wine region with a fairly harsh, continental 

climate which traditionally produced very run-of-themill 

wines with high alcohol content. Since then, a huge 

amount of work has been achieved, vineyard sites have 

been identified and as part of the process, the most 

promising areas have been hived off. Some of these DOs 

particularly stand out for their quality, primarily Calatayud, 

Cariñena and Somontano. 

Aragon is probably less of a tourist hotspot than say 

the Basque Country, Rioja or Catalonia, but it certainly 

produces interesting wines at similarly interesting price 

points. Read about them in our feature report (pages 

44-53) and in our Summer Selection (page 123). 

Although Aragon’s wines are still less publicised than 

those from the more prominent regions, this land of 

contrasts with a very eventful history has successfully 

set its sights on quality and proven that it is now a force 

to be reckoned with in the wine arena, not just in Spain 

but also internationally. 


2021 BORDEAUX 

A GIANT PUZZLE 

BY SYLVAIN PATARD 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

Bordeaux experienced a host of weather events which had a negative impact 

on the development of the growing season, ripening and yields. They ranged 

from severe spring frosts to horrendous outbreaks of mildew and a cool summer 

with little sunshine, but ended with a mild autumn. A lot of hard work in the 

vineyards produced decent wines, some of them stellar even, but with significant 

inconsistencies from one appellation, or even property, to another. The following 

is an excerpt from our tastings, solely focused on the Crus Classés. 

THE TASTING AT CHÂTEAU LAFITE WILL BE REMEMBERED 

AS ONE OF THE HIGH POINTS OF EN PRIMEUR WEEK 

THE 5 HIGHEST-RANKING 2021 

GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS 

98/100 Château Lafite: Elegant nose gradually opening 

up to mineral-oaky tones and dark fruits. The palate 

shows incredible breadth, racy tannins and a very 

strict feel entwined with elegance. An excellent vintage 

of Lafite. 

98/100 Château Mouton-Rothschild: Captivating nose 

of dark fruits and exotic wood, which is rich yet elegant. 

The palate is as dense as it is mouth-caressing. The tannins 

are incredibly ripe and the wine exudes an impression 

of comforting tranquillity. A superlative Mouton. 

96/100 Château Margaux: Oakiness is present yet elegant. 

The same generosity is evident on the palate 

which is very chewy. The oak is racy and the fruit is 

already pretty. Abundant freshness. A Cabernet vintage 

more than ever. 

95/100 Château Haut-Brion: Low-key fruity and oaky 

nose. The palate is very broad then power sets in with 

aromatics that are both dense and harmonious. Great 

selection but lacking the magic of the finest years. 

95/100 Château Latour: Very muted, profound nose 

with subtle mineral and oak aromas. The palate is 

dense, almost harsh, with grippy tannins. A very young 

wine, definitely with substantial ageing capacity but 

still way too imprecise. 


7

BORDEAUX 

EN PRIMEUR 

2021 PAUILLAC AND SAINT-ESTÈPHE 

PAUILLAC: 

96/100 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron: Racy 

nose showing elegant oakiness. The tannins from 

the wood already lend a lot of structure to the palate 

with dark fruits and a delicate cacao touch in the 

background. Most definitely shows huge potential. 

CHÂTEAU MARGAUX: MÉDOC CLASSICISM 

95/100 Château Lynch-Bages: Explosive nose delivering 

the perfect fusion of fruit and oak. This is a 

very age-worthy wine with super quality oak and a 

very elegant tannin grain. Still an infant! 

95/100 Petit Mouton by Château Mouton- 

Rothschild: Concentrated, racy nose exuding intense 

fruity and oaky notes. The palate is ample and 

elegant with a fine tannin backbone, perfect ripeness 

and velvety fruit on the finish. Magnificent! 

SAINT-ESTÈPHE: 

96/100 Château Cos d’Estournel: The nose is still 

muted but elegant with mineral and oaky aromas. The 

palate is fleshy with soft oakiness and fruit showing 

excellent ripeness on the finish. This is a very promising 

wine for cellaring, which is still a little secretive. 

93/100 Château Les Ormes de Pez: Fruity nose 

tinged with faint vegetal aromas. Lovely juicy, very 

coherent palate with oakiness that is a little virile but 

also shows a real stately feel. 

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGEVILLE BARON, 

A RELIABLE CHOICE IN THIS CHALLENGING VINTAGE 

93/100 Château Phélan-Ségur: Appetising nose of 

red fruits and vanilla. The palate is concentrated, 

dense and still oak-dominant. A great blend, which 

should rapidly show its worth. 

2021 SAINT-JULIEN AND MARGAUX 

SAINT-JULIEN: 

96/100 Château Lagrange: The nose offers up a generous, 

appetising and nicely ripe score of fruit. The 

palate is very supple with civilised tannins, breadth 

and generous fruit. Already nicely established. 

96/100 Château Léoville-Barton: The nose is very 

sappy and fuses ripe fruits with very refined oakiness. 

The palate is clean with freshness adding 

tension. Alluring fruit bouquet and very juicy. Racy 

oak influence for a complete wine showing handsome 

potential. 


BORDEAUX 

EN PRIMEUR 

MARGAUX: 

95/100 Château Lascombes: Racy nose with floral 

accents, buds and subtle oakiness. The palate 

already displays a harmonious structure with lovely 

soft fruit and oakiness, although the aromas 

are obviously still youthful. A reliable choice of 

Margaux, as confirmed once again. 

95/100 Château Giscours: Delicate smoky, vanilla 

oak on the nose with ripe red and black fruits. 

Powerful, fleshy, mouth-coating palate where 

gorgeous fruit expression meshes with well-established, 

polished tannins. Freshness drives the 

finish. 

94/100 Château Desmirail: Very pure, clean fruity 

and floral nose. The palate is more oaky yet stays 

harmonious with a distinctively vanilla finish. 

A promising wine still under oak influence. 

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 

96/100 Château Pape Clément: Concentrated 

nose of red and black fruits with virtually imperceptible 

oak. The palate shows lovely concentration, 

combining a strict feel and classicism. This 

is a wine designed for the long-term. 

95/100 Domaine de Chevalier: Very endearing 

nose with intense fruit and oakiness. The palate 

is already remarkable full with racy oakiness and 

fruit presence. All the ingredients are there to 

make this a stunner. 

SAUTERNES AND BARSAC 

93/100 Château Suduiraut: Very elegant, fresh 

nose of white flowers and crisp, ripe fruits. The 

palate is very fresh and lively with great length 

and palatability. A racy wine. 

93/100 Château de Rayne-Vigneau: Mineral nose 

with white fruits and an appetising honeyed 

touch. The palate is typically crisp and rich with 

an acid feel that energises the whole. 

92/100 Château Lamothe-Guignard: Saline nose 

with candied white-fleshed fruits. Ethereal palate 

that keeps the same aromatics with a moreish 

tangy, candied finish. 


9

BORDEAUX 

EN PRIMEUR 

THIS YEAR’S CHÂTEAU FIGEAC IS A SHOW-STOPPER, JUST LIKE ITS BRAND NEW WINERY 

SAINT-EMILION 

SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 

98/100 Château Figeac: Very consistent, precise, 

ripe nose showing soft, elegant oakiness. Beautifully 

sappy palate with structure and fruit showing 

exceptional purity. Highly successful and already 

very convincing, probably enhanced by the chateau’s 

unique blend. 

97/100 Château Pavie: Very consistent nose with oakiness 

that is not too obtrusive. Breadth, fulfilment 

and generosity. An aromatic finish where the Cabernets 

give it their all. Superb! 

96/100 Château Cheval blanc: Tightly-wound, subtle 

nose with shy fruit. Ample, fleshy palate with 

extremely delicate tannins. The finish is in place but 

needs to free itself from the influence of good quality 

but generous oak. 

FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR SUMMER 

2022 

DOMAINE 

FREY-SOHLER 

2020 

ALSACE RIESLING 

9,50€ 

MEDHI DENIAU 

CAVAVIN LA ROCHELLE 

15, rue Thiers 

17000 La Rochelle 

+33 05 46 46 20 42 

larochelle@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU MAZERIS 

BELLEVUE 

2014 

CANON FRONSAC 

13,90€ 

JOHAN GÉRARD 

CAVAVIN NANCY 

53, rue du Faubourg des trois maisons 

54000 Nancy 

+33 3 56 58 30 15 

nancy@cavavin.fr 

CHATEAU 

DE PIZAY 

2020 

BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 

7,80€ 

ROMAIN NOËL 

CAVAVIN ROCHEFORT 

17, rue Cochon Duvivier 

17300 Rochefort 

+33 5 46 87 38 37 

rochefort@cavavin.fr 

BUZET ROUGE 

SANS SULFITES 

2019 

BUZET 

7,20€ 

LAURENT TRILOFF 

CAVAVIN PERPIGNAN 

6 bis, rue Voltaire 

66000 Perpignan 

+33 4 68 85 98 00 

perpignan@cavavin.fr 

CAVAVIN_GG48_PAGE_9.indd 1 30/06/2022 09:54:39 


4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, South Africa 

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PROVENCE 

A TREASURE TROVE OF WINES 

TO DISCOVER THIS SUMMER 

BY FLORIAN GLEMOT, DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE 

ESTATES, ©IANNIS GIAKOUMOPOULOS, 

©SERGE CHAPUIS, ©HERVÉ FABRE 

The spirit of Provence lies in its wealth of culture, its distinctively French lifestyle 

and its incredibly varied, stunning scenery. Its pale-hued rosés have taken the 

world by storm but it is also replete with less publicised treasures and singular 

vineyard sites and wines which have forged a strong identity for the region, and 

made it a prime location for wine. 

BLENDING ROSÉ WINES AT CHÂTEAU SAINT-MAUR 


PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

VINEYARDS GROW ON ‘POUDINGUE’ SOILS IN TERRACES OR ‘RESTANQUES’ 

IN PROVENCAL (CHÂTEAU DE CRÉMAT) 

The history of the vineyards of Provence dates back to Ancient Greece. Despite 

this historical precedence, the region’s shallow soils and extensive forests of 

pine trees and oaks prevented it from going down the route to mass production in 

the footsteps of neighbouring Languedoc and the southern Rhone Valley in the last 

century. The intensive development of tourism and rosé’s move upmarket beginning 

in the 2000s acted as a driving force, catapulting Provence into the global 

arena as a showcase for rosé, which now accounts for virtually 90% of production. 

This success has cast a shadow over the region’s white and red wines, which are 

not only magnificent and extremely noteworthy, but also boast genuine identity. 

Set between the Mediterranean and the pre-Alpine foothills, Provence is host to 

myriad vineyard sites, all with differing features and climatic influences. Vineyards 

near the coast bask in a Mediterranean climate and breezes rising off the sea, 

mitigating the heat of the summer. The more northerly sites are often barred from 

this maritime influence by uplands and therefore experience a hot semi-continental 

micro-climate. This is when the cooler, dry Mistral wind descending from 

the Rhone Valley, along with the cool air currents tumbling down the surrounding 

hills overnight, help the fruit retain their freshness during the ripening period. 

And that is a prerequisite for crafting fine Provence wines. 


13

GEORGES GASSIER 

IS THE 5 TH GENERATION OF 

A FAMILY OF WINEGROWERS 

WHO STARTED OUT IN 1982 

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

14

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

CHÂTEAU GASSIER LOOKS OUT ONTO THE SAINTE VICTOIRE 

CHÂTEAU GASSIER: CRAFING TOP GOURMET ROSÉS 

Nestled at the foot of the extensive limestone range of the Sainte-Victoire, in the 

village of Puyloubier, Château Gassier boasts a magnificent location in the very 

heart of the Côtes de Provence-Sainte-Victoire appellation area. Georges Gassier, 

the chateau’s winegrower, represents the family’s fifth generation of winegrowers 

which took over in 1982. The entire 40-hectare vineyard was certified organic in 

2016, with Olivier Souvelain – at the property’s helm since 2010 – providing the 

catalyst for the switch-over. Driven by boundless determination to secure a worldclass 

reputation for Provence’s winegrowing heritage, he has paved the way for 

Château Gassier to rank among Provence’s finest wineries, primarily by executing 

a very ambitious strategy to move its rosés upmarket. The Elevae label is at the 

very pinnacle of the chateau’s collection of wines. It is only produced in the best 

vintages from strict single-vineyard selection of the finest Grenache, Syrah and 

Rolle grapes. This outstanding wine is then matured in Austrian demi-muids for 

24 months, which lends the wine a touch of oxidation, volume, length on the palate 

and aromatic complexity that is virtually second to none. Produced in boutique 

quantities of a few thousand numbered bottles, this age-worthy rosé has opened 

up new avenues for top gourmet-food-style rosés. Château Gassier’s rosés are 

shipped to 60 countries worldwide, and are served on first class Air France and 

American Airlines flights. The Château has prioritised the development of wine 

tourism and hosts many events, including concerts, afterwork evenings, estate 

visits, open-air cinema projections and even a major sommelier challenge. 


15

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

THE SUMEIRE FAMILY AT CHÂTEAU COUSSIN – SOPHIE, OLIVIER, JEAN-PIERRE, GABRIEL 

AND ANNABELLE 

CHÂTEAU COUSSIN: 

FOCUSING ON BALANCE AND PURITY IN THE FRUIT 

Wine is a tradition that dates back a long way in the Sumeire family. Written 

documents dating from 1238 point to the family’s involvement in the Provence 

wine scene. The family currently owns three chateaux in Provence, but ‘Coussin’ 

is located in the village of Trets, facing the Sainte-Victoire mountain immortalised 

by Cézanne. Its vineyards are considered to be among France’s earliest and 

are surrounded by copses, providing a natural habitat for remarkable biodiversity. 

The climate is semi-continental with the sea breezes mostly blocked 

by Mount Olympe and, further South, by the Aurélien range. Despite this, the 

Mistral wind, whilst lessened by the Sainte-Victoire in the North, manages to 

find its way through to the vineyards, cooling night time temperatures and 

carrying the dry air needed to reduce fungal diseases. Located between 250 

and 350 metres above sea level, the vineyards grow on clay-limestone soils 

which allow the local grape varieties to display finesse. Obviously most of the 

wines are rosé, but the chateau also produces a red wine delivering very pure 

aromatics – the César à Sumeire label. It is only produced in the best vintages 

and released after several years of bottle ageing, “for as long as it takes for the 

wine to rest”. The Syrah-dominant structure is bolstered by adding 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon. 

No wood maturation is used, echoing Sophie Sumeire’s ethos 

of letting fruit purity and balance express themselves. “You don’t need make-up 

when you have natural beauty”, is her expression which pretty much sums up 

her core philosophy. The remarkable intensity and fine tannins lend the wine 

substantial ageing capacity, so that its complexity can be fully savoured. 


PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

THE AIX COUNTRY HOUSE AT CHÂTEAU DE POURCIEUX HAS BEEN LISTED AS A HISTORIC MONUMENT SINCE 1993 

CHÂTEAU DE POURCIEUX: PIONEERING EXPORTS TO THE USA 

Château de Pourcieux was built in 1764 by the last lord of Pourcieux. This magnificent 

Aix country house has been listed as a French historic monument since 

1993. Michel d’Espagnet, who descends from the original lineage, would have 

made his forbears proud. He is now extremely proud himself to be able to sit back 

and let his children gradually take over the reins of the chateau. His son Rémi, a 

trained winemaker and the estate’s cellarmaster, has been tasked with making the 

chateau’s wines for the past five years. His daughter Alix, who graduated with a 

master’s degree in international wine and spirits trade, quite naturally took over 

the export department. Michel d’Espagnet sensed the potential for rosé wines in 

the American market as early as 1992, and his enterprising spirit rapidly reaped 

rewards. At a time when exports of rosé to the United States were in the embryonic 

stage, he was already shipping up to 120,000 bottles a year there (75% of output). 

This made him the largest marketer of rosé across the pond, “before the big guns 

arrived in the 2000s”. The vineyards cover 27 hectares and are in their final year 

of conversion to organic. Approximately 60% of them are entitled to the complementary 

geographical designation (DGC) Sainte-Victoire, which can be appended 

to the Côtes de Provence appellation. The DGC was the first to be awarded in 2005 

and to be officially listed by INAO as a Côtes de Provence appellation growth. It was 

hived off because of its unique soil types and semi-continental micro-climate. The 

overall quality of wines labelled as Saint-Victoire has been universally recognised: 

“Market response has been unequivocal – DGC Sainte-Victoire sells for 150% of the 

market price for AOC Côtes de Provence without the DGC”. And that certainly has 

to bode well for future generations of the family. 


17

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

LÉGENDES 

THE HARVESTING TEAM AT CHÂTEAU SAINT-MAUR 

CHÂTEAU SAINT-MAUR: WHEN ROSÉ TURNS LUXURY 

In 2011, top French industrialist and owner of Quinta do Pessegueiro in the Douro 

Valley in Portugal, Roger Zannier bought Château Saint-Maur, a Provence Cru 

Classé situated in the gulf of Saint-Tropez. Under the direction of Marc Monrose, 

the team’s ambition is to create a luxury rosé. Immediately after the acquisition, 

therefore, the vineyards were thoroughly restructured in order to bring them 

up to speed, with the first wines released in the 2014 vintage. The 100-hectare 

vineyard is currently being converted to organic and is divided into three blocks 

– Saint-Maur and Clos Saint-Vincent, where the weather is distinctly maritime 

in influence, and Clos de Capelune, overlooking the gulf of Saint-Tropez from an 

altitude of 449 metres, making it the “highest block in AOC Côtes de Provence”. 

The vineyard soils here are clay-limestone with a basis of schist and quartz and 

they bring out “totally different characters from the same grape varieties grown in 

vineyards along the coast”. This is the home of grapes used to make Château Saint- 

Maur’s top drops, which contribute tension and aromatic intensity to the wines. 

The Clos de Capelune Rosé label is blended from Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache 

and fully expresses the potential of these Provencal vineyards with great elegance 

and intensity. In the same range, the white single varietal Rolle Clos de Capelune 

label is a typical rendition of Provence Rolles that have the ability to convey the 

saline character of the soils to the wine. Marc Monrose is adamant that “even if 

the market for Provence rosé is very bullish at the moment, white wines have great 

potential”. Château Saint-Maur certainly intends to ramp up production over the 

coming years. 


MARC MONROSE, THE 

DIRECTOR OF VINEYARDS 

BELONGING TO THE ZANNIER 

GROUP 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

19

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

DOMAINE DE LA SANGLIERE: A UNIQUE SITE 

The winegrowing saga of the Devictor family began in 1980 when young agricultural 

engineer François fell in love with Domaine de la Sanglière in Bormes-les-Mimosas, 

just a stone’s throw away from the Mediterranean. Three generations now 

work side by side at this idyllic property – Rémy and Olivier, François’ two sons, 

who were recently joined by Pierre, his grandson. Olivier is not only the estate’s 

viticulturist, he also chairs the La Londe Complementary Geographical Designation 

committee within AOC Côtes de Provence. DGC La Londe boasts 33 producers 

and a potential of 1,200 hectares under vine – it also has a unique location. 

Its coastal situation draws in sea breezes every day which mitigate the soaring 

summer temperatures and cool the air overnight, allowing the fruit to ripen effortlessly. 

The poor, shallow schist soils lend the wine unmistakable terroir character 

with remarkable finesse and freshness. Embracing four localities South of the 

Massif des Maures, it is Provence’s only DGC to recognise premium quality in all 

three colours of wine. Domaine de la Sanglière’s Prestige white label is produced 

from a specific block of Rolle vines, the highest on the estate. It fully encapsulates 

DOMAINE DE LA SANGLIÈRE WHERE THREE GENERATIONS SHARE THE SAME VALUES 


THE DOLCE VITA IS 

A WAY OF LIFE AT DOMAINE 

DE LA SANGLIÈRE 

OLIVIER AND RÉMY 

DEVICTOR ‘AT WORK’ IN THEIR 

EARTHLY PARADISE 

its specific terroir features through its fresh, precise acid backbone and iodinelike 

characters instilled by the maritime influence of the Mediterranean. Rolle 

adds aromatic complexity and a silky feel. The varietal characters are deliberately 

enhanced by fermentation and maturation for 7 months in demi-muids aged 

between 8 and 12 years old. 

DOMAINE MAGALONE: 

MAKING PROVENCE ROSÉS WIDELY AVAILABLE 

Vivien Paulmyer spent 10 years travelling the length and breadth of the Provence 

and southern Rhone vineyards as a supermarket buyer. His decision to move to 

Aix-en-Provence and set up his own trading company for Provence rosés in 2017 

– Domaine Magalone – was therefore the logical next step. As a wine enthusiast, 

Paulmyer likes his passion for wine to be widely shared. His vision is about as 

far as you can get from elitist and he aims to make wine accessible even to those 

with the smallest budgets. His strategy has paid off. His ‘Le Grand Bain’ label of 

AOC Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence rosé, which was singled out for distinction in 

our tastings, totals a production volume of 200,000 bottles annually. It is widely 

distributed in supermarkets and hypermarkets at a very accessible price point 

for Provence wines. “The wine market is suffering, mainly from competition with 

beer. It is important to supply fresh, light, aromatic wines with the most affordable 

price tags in order for wine to gain traction again”. Paulmyer has taken his 

commitment a stage further by developing his own vineyard concurrently with 


21

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

VIVIEN PAULMYER DEVELOPS HIS OWN DOMAINE MAGALONE VINEYARDS NEAR AIX-EN-PROVENCE 

this. He has already planted 3 hectares and plans to plant a further 5 next year. 

Driven by a profound sense of environmental awareness, he has subscribed 

to sustainable organic farming methods in order to leave future generations 

with healthy, living soils. “Organic should be encouraged more by politicians 

who should incentivise growers. There should be a strong incentive to switch, 

considering the risk of lower yields or even crop losses when fungal diseases 

are widespread. Customers pay attention primarily to the appellation and the 

price. If an organic wine from the same appellation is 30% more expensive, 

they will opt for the conventional or HVE alternative”. 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE: 

PROVENCE’S GLOBAL CRU CLASSÉ AMBASSADOR 

Saint-Tropez born and bred Valérie Rousselle has been at the helm of Provence 

Cru Classé Château Roubine for nearly thirty years. She can now rely on the 

help of her three children, Adrien, Victoria and Léonard in managing the 

chateau, as well as two other recently purchased properties: neighbouring 

Château Béatrice and Domaine Chante Bise in the Côtes du Rhône area. 

Valérie has poured a lot of effort into securing recognition for Provence rosés 

worldwide. She created International Rosé Day, which has been celebrated 

since June 2018 in the town of Saint-Tropez where the citadel turns pink for 


PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

the occasion. Over 50 Provence producers gather 

for the event and present their rosés to crowds of 

enthusiasts who also get to enjoy concerts and 

dance performances. Château Roubine’s vineyards 

are ringed by an amphitheatre of pines and oak 

trees. Out of a total 120 hectares, 72 are planted to 

vines and offer a showcase for 13 different grape 

varieties, including Sémillon and Rolle. The two 

varieties are blended to produce the ‘Lion et le 

Dragon’ white wine label. Yields are low and the 

clay-limestone soils offer natural drainage into 

a stream – Roubine means stream in Provencal. 

The berries ripen to produce great aromatic 

concentration. Wild ferments start off fermentation 

in 400 to 600-litre French oak casks. This 

is followed by ageing on fine lees with batonnage 

for 8 months. The resultant wine is intense, bright 

and juicy. The fat stemming from the maturation 

process makes this a wine for gourmet food – it is 

appetising yet not too heavy and supported by a 

persistent mineral backbone. 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE IS SURROUNDED BY EXTENSIVE WOODLANDS HOME 

TO PINE GROVES AND OLIVE TREES 

VALÉRIE ROUSSELLE AND HER 3 CHILDREN, ADRIEN, VICTORIA AND LÉONARD 

DOMAINE DES BERGERIES DE HAUTE 

PROVENCE: THE RESURRECTION OF A 

HIGH-ELEVATION SITE 

Very often, wine and passion go hand in hand 

and that passion can give rise to some amazing 

projects. Domaine des Bergeries de Haute 

Provence is a case in point. The banks of the 

Durance, near Saint-Auban, in a setting that 

is more alpine than Mediterranean, are where 

former sommelier and keen wine enthusiast 

Jean-Luc Monteil successfully resurrected the 

previously well-established vineyard of Les Mées. 

Towering 550 metres above sea level, the vineyards 

were planted starting in 2017 on South-facing 

clay-limestone soils. The vineyard is like an 

open-air laboratory where no fewer than 11 grape 

varieties are planted on 6 hectares of land that 

had never seen chemicals. Likening the site to 

“the French foothills of the Alps”, Monteil quite 

naturally planted Barbera and Nebbiolo, along 

with Vermentino (Rolle) and Bianco Gentile, 

“imported from Corsica, which lends structure 


23

PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

to two of the estate’s white wines”. The white Via 

Domitia (IGP Alpes de Haute-Provence) named 

after the famous Roman way which cuts through 

the valley, is blended from Vermentino, Viognier, 

Marsanne, Bianco Gentile and Sauvignon blanc 

and matured for 7 months in 750-litre amphorae. 

The mouthfeel develops in the amphora and brings 

out “the velvety expression of the limestone soils”, 

whilst retaining beautifully expressive minerality, 

“sometimes likened to characters found in Cassis 

and Chablis”. With its fresh, floral attack, the wine 

will most certainly be a centrepiece on tables in the 

finest gourmet restaurants this summer. 

THE VIA DOMITIA LABEL IS MATURED FOR 7 MONTHS IN 750-LITRE AMPHORAE 

CHÂTEAU DE CRÉMAT: 

THE PRESTIGIOUS REPRESENTATIVE 

OF AOC BELLET 

AOC Bellet was officially recognised in 1941. It 

boasts just 9 estates and 60 ha under vine grown 

across the lower foothills of the Alps overlooking 

the city of Nice. Perched at between 100 and 350 

m above sea level, between the Mediterranean Sea 

and the Alps, the area basks in a sunny micro-climate. 

Its annual rainfall is in excess of 800 mm 

and it is buffeted by the dry, cold Mistral wind, 

which is channelled down through the Var valley 

and keeps the vines healthy. Every night, cold 

winds descend on the vineyards and prolong 

hang-time of the grapes, producing the perfect 

combination of phenolic and technological ripeness. 

The vineyards are grown along terraces, 

known locally as ‘restanques’. The soils known as 

‘poudingues’ offer good drainage and are formed 

of agglomerated pebbles, sand and seams of clay. 

Alain Vallès, the chateau’s winegrower expounds 

further: “The soils instil intense fruitiness in 

the wines and maintain a high level of acidity”. 

The Bellet appellation offers a showcase for two 

characterful native grape varieties – Braquet for 

rosé wines, and Folle noir for reds. The 2016 red 

Château de Crémat label is blended from 75% 

Folle noire and 25% Grenache noir. Folle noire is a 

late-ripening grape variety, which is occasionally 

harvested at the beginning of October. Its berries 


PROVENCE 

FOCUS 

ALAIN VALLÈS KEEPS A CLOSE EYE ON HIS FOLLE NOIRE WINES DURING THE MATURATION 

PHASE. THE NATIVE GRAPE VARIETY IS PART OF AOC BELLET’S IDENTITY 

display a good level of natural acidity and thick skins, which promote intense 

colour extraction. Despite this, its tannins stay supple and meld perfectly with 

those of the Grenache. “The 2016 vintage was exceptional in the region”, and 

demonstrated Folle noire’s extensive ageability. Supported by racy maturation 

for 12 months in demi-muids, the wine is intense, complex and generous. It 

offers up a saline feel, prolonging the delicate red fruit and dried flower flavours. 

Château de Crémat only produces 30,000 bottles of wine but intends to introduce 

wine enthusiasts keen to discover a new experience to its hidden gems by 

developing distribution in the domestic market. 

Since the turn of the century, Provence has entered a golden age, boasting an 

international reputation built on solid foundations. The resounding success of 

rosé wine was the catalyst for this new-found reputation, with global consumption 

reaching 23.6 million hectolitres in 2019, up 23% on 2002. The most buoyant 

markets are France and the USA, respectively representing 35% and 15% market 

shares. Year after year, rosé moves further upmarket with average prices increasing 

by 29% between 2015 and 2019. Provence is rosé’s undisputed showcase and 

the driving force behind the global market. The development of oak-aged foodfriendly 

rosés has opened up a whole new dimension, distancing the wines 

from their ‘swimming pool tipple’ image of the 2000s. There is still huge room 

for growth but leveraging it will involve making consumers aware of the top 

quality of Provence rosés. But although 90% of its wines are pink, this magnificent 

region is also home to characterful whites that make the perfect partner 

for superb summery gourmet foods. There are also the beautifully crafted reds 

made from offbeat grape varieties in unfamiliar vineyard sites. Whatever the 

choice, all of them are sure to provide ultimate enjoyment for the adventurous 

wine lovers among us. 


25

WHY CORSICA 

IS TIPPLED PINK 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Corsican rosés are among France’s finest unknown treasures to discover. They 

boast the hallmark features of their outstanding vineyard location and signature 

aromatics stemming from native grape varieties that are occasionally blended 

with Syrah and Grenache. They have successfully withstood fierce competition 

from their Provencal neighbours due to their remarkable quality, which has 

also stood them in good stead in export markets. 

CONTRELLA ROSÉ IS A WINE FOR ANY OCCASION 


CORSICA 

DISCOVERY 

THE OUTSTANDING TERROIR AT CLOS SANTINI 

No one could deny that the Island of Beauty fully deserves its moniker. Ranking 

fourth among the Mediterranean islands, after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus, its 

scenery is picture-postcard and extremely varied. With a land area of 8,722 km², it 

is ringed by 1,000 kilometres of coastline, sandy or rocky beaches and magnificent 

gulfs, overlooked by lofty mountains peaking with Monte Cinto at 2,710 metres 

above sea level. In this naturally blessed region, Corsican rosés have carved out 

a place for themselves as a reliable choice within the French wine proposition, 

often offering great value for money. For most of the year, the tempo of life on 

the island is set by holidaymakers. Bars and pavement cafés come alive with a 

good glass of rosé. In this delightful setting, 50 million bottles of these sun-filled 

wines are produced annually. This equates to a staggering 70% of overall volumes, 

compared with just 17% for reds and 13% for whites. France corners a third of the 

global market, thus making it the world’s leading producer of rosés, and although 

Provence remains the go-to rosé region due to its long history and constant export 

growth, rosés from Corsica are now flexing their marketing muscle and making 

their mark in an increasingly buoyant international market. 


27

CORSICA 

DISCOVERY 

DOMAINE SAN GAVINO: 

SHOWING RESPECT FOR TERROIR 

JULES LEBEGUE ON THE LEFT, WITH HIS FATHER THIERRY 

HARVESTING AT DOMAINE MONTEMAGNI 

At an altitude of 1,217 metres in southern Corsica, 

the Uomo di Cagna mountain peak seems to 

watch over the vineyards at Domaine San Gavino. 

These impressive clay-granite hillsides are home 

to 2.5 hectares of vines on the plains of Figari, 

at the foot of the mountains and in the heart 

of unspoilt maquis-clad countryside. Thierry 

Lebegue and his son Jules have reverted to traditional 

techniques, producing fruity, mineral rosés 

that run the gamut in terms of style and beautifully 

echo their Provencal counterparts. “Our 

rosés are really different from those in Provence, 

which are already widely known in France”, 

comments Thierry Lebegue. “Holidaymakers are 

quite inquisitive and often pleasantly surprised 

by their aromas. We sell them mainly locally 

during the summer season, but demand on the 

mainland and in European countries is growing”. 

One of the estate’s defining features is the use of 

local grape varieties such as Vermentinu, Sciaccarellu 

and Carcajolo, which produce tense rosés 

with a supple structure. “Rosés have a significant 

place on our estate”, sums up Jules Lebegue. “We 

see tourists who want to enjoy their holidays 

with regional products and Corsican flavours. 

For example, Niellucciu is perfectly suited to the 

climate and shows aromas of red berry fruits, 

apricots and spices, yet also displays great 

suppleness. We also use Syrah, which is a Rhone 

varietal. We selected it for its power, its aromas of 

violets and black fruits and for its peppery edge 

on the palate which adds drive to the suppleness 

of Niellucciu”. The result is an invitation to 

indulge in some very enjoyable wines. 

DOMAINE MONTEMAGNI: 

PATRIMONIO AS A CALLING 

CARD 

The history of Domaine Montemagni perfectly 

epitomises the virtuous circle of passing on heritage 

down through the generations. Since 1850, 


CORSICA 

DISCOVERY 

it has been marked by the entrepreneurial spirit 

and expertise of the Montemagni family. Over 

the years, they have successfully nurtured the 

outstanding qualities of Corsican wines from 

their outstanding vineyard site set between 

the sea and the mountains, with its rich biodiversity. 

A key figure in the Patrimonio appellation, 

Corsica’s first appellation to be awarded 

in 1968, Louis Montemagni’s dyed-in-the-wool 

personality and enlightened spirit promoted 

the estate’s development in the 1970s. He helped 

garner a strong reputation for the estate, one of 

the cornerstones of which is its extensive range 

of rosés. The 81-hectare organically farmed 

vineyard, which focuses on local grape varieties, 

is divided between 38 hectares of Niellucciu, 15 of 

Vermentinu, 11 of Grenache, 7 of Muscat à petit 

grains and 10 of Sciaccarellu, Merlot and Muscat 

d’Alexandrie. “The differentiated grape varieties 

in our rosés instil them with unique aromas and 

flavours, in terms of complexity and freshness”, 

explains winemaker and agricultural engineer 

Aurélie Melleray. “Compared with Provence 

rosés, they stand out because of their unique 

balance and genuine typicity, and demand for 

them is strong. This is true of concentrated Niellucciu 

wines, which are extremely well-suited to 

food, and the Sciaccarellus, which are elegant 

and very palatable”. 

MÉLISSA MONTEMAGNI, DAUGHTER 

OF THE OWNER OF DOMAINE MONTEMAGNI 

GUY MIZAEL OF LES VIGNERONS CORSICANS 

ILE DE ROSÉ: THE NEW KID 

ON THE BLOCK, WITH ALL THE 

MAKINGS OF A GREAT WINE 

Launched in 2021, the Ile de Rosé label 

has already garnered appreciation, selling 

10,000 bottles last year with double that amount 

forecast for this year. Designed by the Corsican 

wine marketing council (CIV), the project 

revolves around production of a high-end rosé 

labelled under the Île de Beauté Protected 

Geographical Indication (PGI). It is part of a 

collaborative initiative by Corsican winegrowers 

and the island’s co-operative wineries are major 

stakeholders. The local Sciaccarellu grape variety 


29

ANDRÉ CASANOVA, 

LES VIGNERONS D’AGHIONE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

30 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CORSICA 

DISCOVERY 

is given pride of place with 60% of the blend, 

complemented by Niellucciu and Grenache – the 

result is a clear, fruity, spicy and indulgent rosé. 

Particular attention has been paid to the packaging. 

The bottle is highly transparent, highlighting 

the colour and quality of the wine, and also 

sports a Corsican stamp with an embossed map 

of the island and a closure made from local cork. 

“The initiative is enhanced by a selection of the 

finest grapes to give the wine a premium positioning 

while also ensuring sizeable and consistent 

volumes”, explains Caroline Franchi, marketing 

and communications director with the CIV. 

“This environmentally-friendly scheme is translated 

into shared practical commitments, such 

as the reduction of synthetic treatments, a 40% 

decrease in sulphites, the use of biodegradable 

consumables and selective waste treatment. The 

aim is to make a tangibly different wine, one 

that guarantees the typicity of the island’s rosés 

and can also be singled out among the current 

range”. These objectives have been met – after 

two vintages, Ile de Rosé has developed and 

expanded its marketing capacities, opening up 

promising new markets in mainland France and 

export markets. 

ERIC POLI, CHAIRMAN OF THE CORSICAN WINE 

MARKETING COUNCIL 

CLOS SANTINI: 

SET BETWEEN THE SEA AND 

THE MOUNTAINS 

Set at the foot of Cap Corse, Clos Santini is 

nestled in the heart of Corsica’s schist soils, in 

the north-eastern part of the island. Located in 

the village of Patrimonio, the estate covers 40 

hectares, including two hectares of Niellucciu 

planted in April this year. Its current owner, 

grandson of the winegrower Louis Montemagni 

and son of negociant Toussaint-Mathieu 

Santini, Franck Santini has inherited a large 

family business founded in 1850, which has 

been certified organic since 2012. “Our vines are 

located on clay-limestone soil and are farmed 

organically. The grapes are picked by hand and 

we do not use chemical sprays”, he explains. “All 

NAMESAKE OWNER FRANCK SANTINI AT HARVEST TIME 


31

CORSICA 

DISCOVERY 

the vineyard blocks on the slopes are located in 

the Patrimonio appellation area where the soils 

are formed of limestone sheets, entwined with 

clay, schist and silica”. Drawing on its time-honoured 

expertise, the estate offers a superb 

range of wines spanning the three colours, one 

noteworthy example of which is the AOC Clos 

Santini Rosé, a blend of 75% Niellucciu and 25% 

Grenache noir, sporting a pale pink colour and 

beautiful notes of fresh fruit. 

DOMAINE DE TANELLA: 

KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY 

ALEXANDRA DE PERETTI DELLA ROCCA WITH HER FATHER JEAN-BAPTISTE 

ALEXANDRA DE PERETTI DELLA ROCCA AND HER BROTHER MARC-AURÈLE 

At Domaine de Tanella, knowledge and skills are 

shared among the family. After learning to farm 

vines with his father Marc-Aurèle, Jean-Baptiste 

de Peretti della Rocca took over at the helm of this 

family vineyard in 1975. It was founded at the end 

of the 19 th century in the heart of the village of 

Poggiale, just three kilometres from the Mediterranean 

Sea. Today, he runs the 80 hectares of 

unbroken vineyards with his children Alexandra 

and Marc-Aurèle. He, in turn, has been able to 

pass on his passion and his desire to create and 

innovate, whilst at the same time honouring 

tradition and professionalism in vinting and 

maturing every vintage. The local grape varieties 

are the preferred choice for making characterful, 

structured single varietal rosés from Sciaccarellu 

which adds finesse and elegance, and Niellucciu, 

which displays strength and power. “Though 

competing with Provence, Corsican rosés have 

a good image stemming from the island’s 

appeal”, comments Alexandra. “Rosés account 

for half of our production. But we’ve noticed that 

the whites are enjoying renewed appeal, and 

demand has increased significantly over the last 

few years”. The estate also breeds Corsican ewes 

and produces farmhouse cheeses. The richness 

of the soil where the livestock grazes produces 

very flavourful milk, and with the house rosés, 

they encapsulate the family’s expertise and 

heightened sense of local traditions. 


JEAN-BAPTISTE DE PERETTI DELLA ROCCA DURING THE HARVEST AT DOMAINE DE TANELLA 

AN IMAGE RE-SET IS NEEDED 

Corsican rosés epitomise the lifestyle of a felicitous region naturally blessed with 

varied soils and remarkable local grape varieties. As consumer trends currently 

favour easy-drinking, aromatic wines offering instant gratification, they display 

distinctive lightness and freshness, making them easy to drink on any occasion. 

For many years, they lacked awareness but are now reaping the benefits 

of the hard work and expertise of passionate winegrowers who have successfully 

broadened their range of wines and moved upmarket. Now, low-priced 

local wines have been joined by wonderful terroir-driven treasures, made from 

low-cropping vines by extremely proficient winegrowers and winemakers. 

Corsican rosés offer a window to the world of international cuisine, pairing 

beautifully with Thai, Japanese and Indian foods or even Moroccan tagines. 

Also, they benefit from the appeal of a region renowned for its beauty, effectively 

underpinned by dynamic communications and marketing initiatives which 

showcase the wines’ modern and sometimes mould-breaking packaging. The 

only cloud on the horizon is that consumption remains very seasonal. In France, 

rosé is still associated with summer occasions and viewed as an easy-drinking 

quaffer, despite the fact that it can also be extremely food-friendly and pair with 

very elaborate cuisine all year round. This more holistic approach heralds opportunities 

for expanding markets, particularly overseas. 


33

ITALIAN ROSÉ ENJOYS 

EXPONENTIAL GROWTH 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


For years, the rosé wine category in Italy was the underdog, considered a 

marginal genre, almost as if it were a ‘non-wine’. In recent years however, global 

growth of rosés, and in particular still rosés, has allowed Italian wineries to free 

themselves of the shackles of cultural legacies that did not value the perception 

and positioning of pink wines. The undeserved victim of prejudices and absurd 

confusions, rosé is in fact one of the most cross-functional, versatile wines, both 

for its potential for expression and pairing possibilities. 

SCHENK ITALIA HAS MADE A STRONG COMMITMENT TO ROSÉ WINES AND MAKES 

THEM IN VARIOUS PARTS OF ITALY. ITS INVOLVEMENT STARTS IN THE VINEYARD 


ITALY 

STYLE 

THE SIDDURA WINERY IN LUOGOSANTO, IN THE HEART OF GALLURA, SARDINIA 

T 

he traditional Italian areas for the production of rosé wines are Bardolino, Valtènesi, 

Abruzzo (with Cerasuolo), Castel del Monte and Salice Salentino. Yet, in recent years, 

the production of rosé wines in Italy has grown in almost all regions, including Tuscany 

and Piedmont. The latter two have indeed significantly ramped up their production of rosé, 

particularly in areas which do not have white grapes available and therefore need a fresh 

wine to replace white. 

It is important to consider rosé as a wine whose versatility brings added value, and not to 

relegate it to the warmer months or to specific occasions such as the aperitif. The strength 

of rosé wines, in fact, lies precisely in their ability to embrace a wide spectrum of pairings, 

embracing the most delicate fish or vegetable dishes through to rich meat dishes, cured 

meats or cheeses. Rosé can be a real tool in the hands of a skilful sommelier who can play 

with both the pairing and the serving temperature based on the taste they want to achieve 

and the experience they want their guests to enjoy. 

As far as winemaking techniques are concerned, rosé wine is made entirely from red grapes 

which are initially treated as they would be for producing red wine before switching to practices 

common to white winemaking. This is followed by short macerations (from a few hours 

to a couple of days) depending on the type of grape (and its colouring capacity) and the vintage, 

which is decisive in defining the thickness and quality of the skins. There are various ‘pink’ 

winemaking methods, but the main ones used in Italy are: 

- white winemaking: the same techniques are used as for white wines using red grapes. Maceration 

can be divided into ‘overnight wines’ or ‘one day wines’. When soaking lasts 6-12 hours, 

the wine is called ‘overnight wine’. When it lasts around 24 hours, it is referred to as ‘one day 

wine’, though some soaking can be extended to over 36 hours. Fermentation, which at first is 


35

ITALY 

STYLE 

TENUTA IUZZOLINI PRODUCES ROSÉ WINES MAINLY FROM GAGLIOPPO GRAPES 

THE FAMILY IN THE CELLAR 

usually blocked using SO2, is only allowed to start 

once the must has rested on the skins. 

- ‘salasso’ or saignée: a technique used by red wine 

producers. It has a twofold purpose: it produces 

rosé by taking a varying amount of must from the 

maceration tank or vat, which is then vinted as 

white wine and only retains some of its colour; it 

adds concentration and structure to red wine. 

- blush wines or ‘vin gris’ with a pale pink colour 

are produced by avoiding maceration on the skins 

and are very popular abroad. To produce a Vin 

Gris, grapes with a very low colouring capacity 

are used, such as Cinsault Rose, Cinsault Gris 

and Cinsault. With blush wines, maceration is 

reduced to a minimum and the wines produced 

have perceptible residual sugar and are petillant. 

In Italy, the ‘salasso’ technique (which was historically 

the most widely used) is slowly giving way 

to direct-to-press, the trend leaning towards 

wines that are lighter in colour, fresher and 

more savoury, similar to the rosés produced in 

Provence. Yet, even in the world of rosé wines, 

strong regional identities can be distinguished, 

with characters differing from north to south, and 

the islands becoming increasingly important. The 

leading markets, as revealed by benchmark rosé 

wineries in Italy are the USA, the UK, Northern 

Europe and Japan, but the domestic market is also 

strong, and growth is global. 

TENUTA IUZZOLINI – 

STICKING TO ITS GUNS 

Tenuta Iuzzolini is located in Cirò Marina, 

Calabria, an area historically dedicated to producing 

traditional wines, but also very characterful 

rosés. As seen from Tenuta Iuzzolini, the market 

for rosé wines has evolved steadily, and not necessarily 

exponentially. In fact, the market for rosé 

wines is still fairly limited to specific areas. As far 

as the local market is concerned, Southern Italy 

ranks highest for consumption, while abroad there 

is strong growth in demand from the Nordic countries 

(Denmark and Norway in particular). 

From a stylistic perspective, Tenuta Iuzzolini points 


PASQUALE IUZZOLINI, THE 

WINEMAKER AND DIRECTOR 

OF TENUTA IUZZOLINI 


37

ITALY 

STYLE 

to a change in the appearance of rosé. Many producers 

have given in to market demand for very clear 

rosé wines whereas at Tenuta Iuzzolini the style has 

not changed. The winery continues to keep its wines 

a deep pink colour – irrespective of their classification 

– as is mandatory under DOC regulations. 

Tenuta Iuzzolini produces a DOC rosé from 

Gaglioppo grapes, a still IGT called Lumare made 

mainly from Gaglioppo grapes which is briefly 

matured in French oak barrels, and a sparkling rosé. 

MARCO RIZZO, OF LAURA ASCHERO, WITH HIS WIFE CARLA AND DAUGHTER BIANCA NOW 

AT THE COMPANY’S HELM 

LAURA ASCHERO 

BY MARCO RIZZO – 

LIGURIA AND ITS PINK VISION 

LAURA ASCHERO’S VINEYARDS ARE LOCATED ABOUT 150 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL 

Azienda Laura Aschero di Marco Rizzo, located in 

Imperia, is a benchmark in Liguria, the home of rosés 

showing great elegance and finesse. For this particular 

company, Italy is the main market as its production 

of rosé is boutique, at just 4,000 bottles, and therefore 

precludes exports. The Italian rosé market has 

undoubtedly moved in a positive direction in recent 

years, through changing consumer tastes and expectations. 

Particularly in the summer, consumers are 

looking for a fresh, light wine that can be paired with 

any dish and enjoyed at any time of day. 

The Laura Aschero winery’s ‘rosato’ stems from 

a fine balance between Rossese grapes and some 

white grapes, which are grown as field blends in 

vineyards located in the hilly area overlooking 

the sea. This is an ancient approach that has been 

given a modern twist, and the result is some very 

stylish wines. 

SIDDURA – 

A CALLING FOR ROSÉ WINES 

Piero Aru, Siddùra’s sales manager, confirms that 

“The Italian rosé market is experiencing a strong 

upward curve. Consumption of this style of wine, 

though still marginal in terms of absolute sales 

figures, is increasingly popular with wine lovers”. 

The trend has prompted the winery to offer a 

solution for regular rosé drinkers looking for 


ITALY 

STYLE 

increased refinement and site-expressiveness. Its 

answer is Nudo rosé, a single varietal made from 

Cannonau. The classic profile of its rosé consumers 

is premium, and the winery feels that this 

is the type of market that will continue to grow. 

Siddùra markets mainly nationwide, with 

Sardinia leading the way, but sales and prospects 

for European markets are also very interesting, 

with Switzerland and Germany at the top. 

Demand from Asia is also growing. 

Winemaker Dino Dini feels that Italian and Sardinian 

producers have gone along with an ongoing 

worldwide phenomenon, aligning themselves 

with ever-increasing market demand. On one 

of his trips to neighbouring Corsica before the 

pandemic, he had already realised there was 

strong demand for rosé wines among consumers, 

so much so that some producers had begun 

to devote a large part of their production to ‘pink’ 

winemaking. 

Again, however, it is Provence that serves as the 

muse for Siddura’s rosé. “It is much simpler”, 

says Dini, “for areas which, like Sardinia, share 

many distinctive weather patterns and soils with 

France as well as some of the most important 

grape varieties such as Cannonau (Grenache) 

primarily. The approach taken for Siddura’s rosé 

is exactly the same as the great Bandol rosés and 

the aim is to combine finesse and freshness with 

good longevity”. 

CANNONAU GRAPES ARE SPECIALLY SELECTED AND HARVESTED TO MAKE ROSATO 

THE MODERN BARREL CELLAR AT THE SIDDURA WINERY 

COLOMBA BIANCA – 

STAYING AHEAD OF THE CURVE 

THROUGH INNOVATION 

For Colomba Bianca, too, rosés have evolved stylistically 

over the last twenty years and experienced 

slow but steady growth in production. Today, the 

company points to greater demand from both 

producers and consumers for greater quality 

fuelled by the increase in consumption. Colomba 

Bianca’s rosé wines are mainly sold in Europe: 

France, Germany, Holland, Belgium and Poland. 

Its reference market is France, home to the best 

rosés in the world. 


39

COLOMBA BIANCA PRODUCES 

TWO ROSÉ WINES FROM NATIVE 

VINES, NERO D’AVOLA 

AND NERELLO MASCALESE, 

AND A THIRD ROSÉ FROM SYRAH 

Greater awareness and inquisitiveness by consumers are fundamental to the increase in 

sales and therefore in production. Consumers are delving deeper into the category and 

want to know more, and as a result light is being shed on a wine with enormous potential 

that has long been underestimated. 

To produce the three types of rosé, Colomba Bianca has defined precise profiles of the 

varietals and site specifics for its rosés, creating a style close to that of Provence, from 

which the wines take their inspiration. Two rosés are made from indigenous grape 

varieties, Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese, and a third from Syrah grapes, which has 

adapted very well to the climate, or rather, microclimates of Sicily. The result is wines that 

show very well in terms of colour, freshness and elegance. Colomba Bianca produces both 

still and sparkling wines, from the Charmat Method to the Classic Method. 

Although from a sales perspective it is a niche, there is a constant shift of consumers from 

white wine to rosé, which is enjoyed as an aperitif or with a meal. Consumption is still 

very seasonal, and linked to warmer weather, but is gradually freeing itself from these 

seasonal shackles. The most inquisitive consumers are certainly Millennials and GenZ. 

The growth of rosé wines shows no signs of slowing down, which is why Colomba Bianca 

continues to innovate based on the premise that consumers will continue to seek out new 

styles as time goes by. Colomba Bianca’s current rosé production is 6% of its total output. 

STATTI - THREE INTERPRETATIONS OF ROSÉ 

BETWEEN THE TWO SEAS 

For the Statti Winery in Lamezia (Calabria), even the pandemic has failed to halt growth in 

rosé wines in the international market over the past two years. In fact, in 2021 the percentage 

of wine sold rose to 4.4% compared to 3.8% in 2019. Which is why, according to Antonio 

Statti, the company’s owner, rosé can no longer be considered as a passing fad, but rather 


ITALY 

STYLE 

a category following a continual upward trend. The 

mistake has been to think that rosé is only for women 

or designed only as a summer quaffer. Statti therefore 

focuses on making rosé an all-year drink suited 

to every occasion. 

Important themed events organised at national and 

international level have paved the way for better 

knowledge of rosé, piquing consumer interest. In 

terms of sales, the regional market accounts for 

approximately 60% but Statti also exports to Europe, 

primarily to Germany which accounts for 20%. 

The growth is not only in numbers but also in 

quality due to the winery’s policy of research and 

experimentation, which has raised the quality 

perception of rosé wines. 

One of its strengths has been to experiment 

with the various winemaking techniques for its 

native grape varieties. This strategy has enabled 

it to assess the aptitudes of each variety for 

making rosé, and market unique wines with a 

strong regional identity. This in turn guarantees 

continuity and a high level of quality, creating 

a virtuous circle where enjoyable wines drive 

consumption and attract greater attention. 

The company produces three types of rosés: single 

varietal Greco Nero; Lamezia Doc Rosato (40% 

Gaglioppo, 40% Magliocco, 20% Greco Nero) and I 

Gelsi Rosato (85% Gaglioppo, 15% other varieties). 

All are made using white wine techniques where the 

grapes go direct-to-press with no soaking. 

ANTONIO AND ALBERTO STATTI, OWNERS OF THE FAMILY BUSINESS 

STATTI IS ONE OF CALABRIA’S MOST WINE TOURISM-FRIENDLY ESTATES 

TORREVENTO AND ITS 

ITERATIONS OF ‘APULIA IN PINK’ 

The winery, owned by the Liantonio family, has 

its origins in 1913 in a distant and touching story 

of emigration to America. In 1948, this led to 

the purchase of the entire property in Contrada 

‘Torre del Vento’ in Corato, home to an ancient 

monastery used as a winery with 57 hectares of 

vineyards. In its 70-plus-year history, Torrevento 

has grown its vineyard area to no fewer than 500 

hectares in Apulia, its production ethos based on 

sustainability and research. 

Great attention has always been paid to native 


41

ITALY 

STYLE 

FRANCESCO LIANTONIO, TORREVENTO WINERY’S PRESIDENT 

grape varieties which feature in no fewer than 

5 different labels of rosé, made from Bombino 

Nero, Nero di Troia and Primitivo grapes. “The 

Torrevento range is truly representative of ‘Apulia 

in pink’”, comments marketing and export 

manager Alessandra Tedone. “It has traditionally 

always focused on rosé wines of excellence and 

today, using traditional and in some respects innovative 

winemaking practices and being very attentive 

to the demands of the international market, 

it can compete with the finest rosés of Italy and 

the world. It has made a name for the typicity, 

character and different nuances of its wines, not 

just their colour but also their sensory characteristics”. 

The challenge is to reach out to more and 

more markets globally, in addition to markets that 

are already strong such as Scandinavia, Germany 

and, of course, the UK and the USA. This does not 

imply that the company loses sight of the regional 

and national market, where its presence strengthens 

awareness of a constantly growing brand. 

SCHENK ITALIA - A STRONG 

COMMITMENT TO ROSÉ 

THE HYPOGEUM TORREVENTO’S WINE CELLAR 

Schenk Italia believes strongly in rosé wines 

and produces several iterations, both still and 

sparkling, in the various companies located in 

some of the most important Italian wine regions. 

For the group, Italian rosés, which previously 

represented a seasonal niche or, for some appellations, 

a product designed for exports, have 

become popular in recent years and are now 

drunk all year round. Many appellations that 

were entirely focused on red wine are now in great 

demand, even in the rosé version. Sparkling wines 

have effortlessly gained a foothold in the Italian 

aperitif market, but still wines are also increasing 

their presence, especially as food-friendly pours. 

Though still associated with warmer weather, they 

are gradually easing themselves into a role as yearround 

tipples. 

From a sales perspective, Belgium and the Netherlands 

are proving to be very receptive to rosés, with 

the groundwork having been done by French rosés. 


DANIELE SIMONI, CHIEF 

EXECUTIVE OFFICER OF 

SCHENK ITALIAN WINERIES 

SCHENK ITALIAN WINERIES 

EPITOMISES THE EXCELLENCE 

OF ITALIAN WINE FROM 

NORTH TO SOUTH 

They are followed by Great Britain but the countries of Eastern Europe are also growing. 

In the latter case, however, the market is still seasonal and reserved for warmer weather. 

Finally, the United States is also increasingly embracing rosé. 

Italian rosé has followed trends in the leading markets. Provence sets the tempo in terms 

of colour and in some cases Italian rosés mimic those hues. In others, the colour is more 

intense, due to different terroirs or deliberately longer skin contact. In this case, consumers 

then look for fruity notes, freshness, acidity and a slightly higher sugar level to soften 

the taste, all of which offers a new experience. 

Schenk has always featured rosé wines in its portfolio. In the past, these were confined to 

the more classic appellations such as Schiava, Bardolino Chiaretto and Castel del Monte 

Rosato, but today the company has extended its range to include Primitivo, and of course 

Prosecco Rosé. Winemakers are currently working to further expand the selection. 

Italy has shown increased awareness of factors such as the need to select the most suitable 

varieties for producing rosés, and sometimes even specific vineyard sites, along with a 

paradigm shift to more modern winemaking techniques with temperature control and 

state-of-the-art presses, and a virtual end of the ‘saignee’ technique. This transition has 

stoked the market for Italian rosés which now need to aim for higher quality still and not 

just at responding to market demand. 


43

ARAGON 

AIMING FOR EXCELLENCE 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

OF THE ESTATES 

Aragon wines hail from one of Spain’s oldest wine regions and were long 

renowned for their high alcohol levels and very rustic characters. But the tide 

is turning and over the past decade, they have been increasingly garnering 

accolades in international competitions and sparking excitement among 

critics, due to the efforts of several winegrowers, and often by co-operatives, who 

have successfully promoted local grape varieties. 

BODEGAS TEMPORE IS A FAMILY-OWNED ESTATE, CURRENTLY RUN BY THE FOURTH GENERATION OF WINEGROWERS 


SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

WORK IN THE WINERY AT BODEGAS TEMPORE IS ALSO DONE IN THE MOST NATURAL WAY POSSIBLE 

Although Aragon is starting to attract attention, the region remains largely under 

the radar of the public. This is despite the fact that it compares very favourably 

to its prestigious neighbours, Navarre and Catalonia. Aragon is a land of amazing 

contrasts – its dry, arid terrain stretches across the Ebro valley before turning a lush 

green in the foothills of the Pyrenees. 

In terms of weather patterns, the differences are also striking. Buffeted by the 

cold, dry northerly wind – the Cierzo, which keeps the vines healthy – it also shows 

marked differences between seasons (very cold winters and scorching summers) 

and day and night time temperatures. 

Its most promising vineyard sites have been identified and grouped into four 

appellations – Carineña, Calatayud, Somontano and Campo de Borja – and various 

geographical indications. Some localities are also entitled to the Cava appellation. 

Across an area of 36,700 hectares under vine, Grenache reigns supreme, although 

other native grape varieties such as Carignan, Moristel and Parraleta del Somontano 

are also showcased. Spanish and international cultivars, including Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

Syrah, Chardonnay and even Gewurtraminer, complete the line-up. 

This broad ranging collection of grape varieties, coupled with a desire for modernisation 

demonstrated by several of the region’s bodegas, have been the catalyst for 

the region’s quantum leap in quality over the past few years. Discover four wineries 

in the Aragon wine arena which have played a pivotal role in the industry’s revitalisation 

and are now taking it to the pinnacle of glory. 

BODEGAS TEMPORE, THE ORGANIC PIONEERS 

The current incumbents at Bodegas Tempore are the fourth generation of winegrowers. 

What makes the Yago Aznars fairly unusual is that since the winery’s inception 

in 2002, they have always focused on environmentally-friendly winegrowing. 


45

BODEGAS TEMPORE PRIORITISES 

THE VINE’S NATURAL GROWTH 

CYCLE AND TAKES A HANDS-OFF 

APPROACH TO MAKING WINE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT BODEGA SAN VALERO, 

JAVIER DOMEQUE SANZ 


SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

As the region’s organic pioneers, the winery was the 

first to open up international markets with its organic 

Grenache, explains its owner Paula Yago Aznar. 

This commitment translates to a hands-off approach 

in the vineyard, but also in the winery. This was 

the driving force behind the winery’s decision to 

only produce single varietal wines so that the fruit, 

mostly native grapes, could fully express its aromatic 

potential. “Our wines are the perfect illustration of 

our motto, which is ‘Respect for the earth and a 

passion for wine’, adds Yago Aznar. “They are the 

finest expression of our sites, our sunshine and the 

limestone and mineral soils surrounding us”. 

Located in the provinces of Saragosse and Teruel, 

Bas Aragon is defined by very cold, long winters and 

blistering summers where the mercury can soar to 

over 40°C. Rainfall is scarce and the prevailing wind 

is the Cierzo. These weather patterns have a decisive 

effect on the vines. Sporting an intense colour, the 

wines made by the 120-hectare Bodegas Tempore 

are highly expressive and display pronounced 

mineral characters. More than this, though, they 

are very fruit-forward – a moniker that applies as 

much to the estate’s young bottlings as to its more 

mature drops. Bodegas Tempore has lost count of the 

number of medals awarded to its red, white and rosé 

wines in international competitions, particularly for 

its Terrae SO2 free range that is farmed biodynamically 

and uses no sulphites. The range epitomises one 

of the bodega’s latest projects, “driven by its constant, 

deep-rooted desire for innovation”, says Yago Aznar. 

Three years ago, the winery ventured down the 

biodynamic route and is aiming for Demeter certification. 

In 2023, it should be able to release its first 

wines bearing the endorsement. 

“Excellence is our objective, not mass production”, 

claims Yago Aznar. Here, using environmentally-friendly 

vineyard management was an obvious 

choice. “In our opinion, it is the only way for us to 

do business”. 

PAULA YAGO AZNAR, WHO RUNS BODEGAS TEMPORE, 

AND HER GRANDFATHER ANTONIO, WHO ALSO USED TO GROW VINES 

THE SAN VALERO CO-OPERATIVE IS A FUSION OF ANCIENT CUSTOMS 

AND CUTTING-EDGE INDUSTRY INNOVATIONS 

BODEGA SAN VALERO, A BENCHMARK 

Located in the village of Carineña itself, Bodega 

San Valero has written some of the finest chapters 

in the history of the appellation. Founded in 1944 

by 66 winegrowers, the region’s oldest co- operative 


47

SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

winery now boasts 500 member growers who, with their 4,000 hectares under vine, 

corner a third of the famous DO’s vineyards. A leading player in Aragon, Bodega San 

Valero is now a “small great family”, in the words of its marketing director, Javier 

Domeque Gimeno. 

Ninety percent of its vineyards circle the village of Carineña. The Grenache vines, both 

young and old – some are over 80 years old! – are rooted in the very rocky, arid soils 

which offer a prime site for vine growing. They are joined by Carignan, a native grape 

variety after which the appellation is actually named. The stones, which are a distinctive 

feature of the region and lend the wines their signature mineral stamp, protect the 

vines from disease, filter rainwater and also maintain dampness in the soil for long 

periods of time. 

Here, local grape varieties hold pride of place, but other cultivars are also grown – they 

include Syrah, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Chardonnay. There is 

even Muscat d’Alexandrie, from which the winery produces a totally unique fruity, floral 

and slightly spicy wine. Grown in two blocks located at 900 metres above sea level, the 

fruit is harvested at the end of November, by which stage it has almost turned into 

AN ANCIENT BILLHOOK FOR HARVESTING WHICH IS STILL 

USED BY THE PROPERTY’S VINE GROWERS 


PROMOTING BIODIVERSITY 

IN THE VINEYARDS IS A 

PRIORITY FOR THE BODEGA 

THE CO-OPERATIVE FAVOURS 

HARVESTING BY HAND AND 

MAKES ALL OF ITS WINES 

ON SITE 


49

SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

GABI RUIZ, EXPORT MANAGER OF BODEGAS COVINCA, WHO PASSED AWAY 

PREMATURELY LAST MAY. HE WAS A GREAT SOURCE OF INSPIRATION FOR 

EVERYONE AT THE BODEGA 

raisins. The bodega stands out for its extensive range 

of wines, from ice wine to old-vine Grenache, easydrinking 

rosés, very fresh white and sparkling wines. 

One of its noteworthy drops that deserves a mention 

is its single varietal Grenache Cava Blanc de Noirs, 

which is in a league of its own. This extremely elegant 

pour offers up red fruit aromas that are typical of the 

grape. Another of the bodega’s defining features is 

clearly its commitment to the environment. With 

310 hectares farmed organically, it is Aragon’s leading 

organic vineyard and ranks second nationally, says 

Domeque Gimeno with undisguised pride. Its green 

credentials are not limited to its vineyards, but also 

apply to the winery and various other facilities. 

Land is a heritage that needs to be preserved, and 

the winegrowers at San Valero are fully aware of 

their indebtedness to their forbears and their duty to 

their descendants. The present-day winery has three 

generations of winemakers, epitomising the past, the 

present and the future. 

BODEGAS COVINCA, A SPECIAL 

CONNECTION WITH THE SOILS 

Another influential co-operative in DO Carineña 

is Bodegas Covinca which covers 1,200 hectares of 

vines around the village of Longares. “The tradition 

of vine growing in this region dates back to the 3rd 

century BC”, says Jorge Fuster, the winery’s national 

sales director. “The Celtiberian people were already 

making wine here, even before the arrival of the 

Romans”. As early as the 15th century, Carineña 

wines were enjoyed by royalty and went on to 

expand significantly whilst phylloxera decimated 

vineyards in France, and spared those of Aragon. 

This historical land is the birthplace of Bodegas 

Covinca, a co-operative established in 1945 which 

has made a firm pledge to showcase this shared 

heritage. Entirely modernised and equipped with 

cutting-edge technology, it continues this viticultural, 

cultural and social tradition to this day. 

“Virtually the entire village of Longares is involved 

in the project”, stresses Fuster. 

The concept of heritage advocated by the bodega 

obviously translates into measures taken to preserve 

the vineyards and limit chemical spraying to an 

absolute minimum. The company’s winemaker, 


SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

Marta Giménez, explains how it uses pheromones to forego the use of insecticides. 

Innovation serves the interests of sustainable farming. 

Bodegas Covinca’s wines can be either classically styled or more modern and come 

in a range of red, white and rosé. They are made from local grape varieties including 

Grenache, Mazuela and Carignan but also foreign cultivars. Produced from 

low-cropping vines, they are packed full of the flavours of this semi-arid land where 

they are grown, thereby encapsulating its generous, rich nature. It is no accident that 

Carineña wines are now known under the moniker of ‘wines from stones’… 

BODEGA PIRINEOS, THE HISTORIC 

SOMONTANO WINERY 

DO Somontano is a transitional region between the arid soils of the South and the 

Pyrenees. The appellation holds a prominent place in the Aragon wine industry, 

despite its relatively small 4,000-hectare footprint. In fact, its wines, made from 

low-cropping vines, were the first to have piqued consumers’ interest in the 1990s, 

says Corinne Ortas Garcès, the estate’s export manager. “Subsequently, bodegas from 

other parts of Aragon followed its example and turned the spotlight on Grenache, 

allowing them to scale the heights of quality”. 

Bodega Pirineos, which dates back to 1964, played a pivotal role in securing recognition 

for the appellation as its founding member in 1984. The co-operative, with 

THE MANAGING DIRECTOR OF BODEGA PIRINEOS, SILVIA ARRUEGO 


51

THE QUEST FOR QUALITY 

AND A TASTE FOR 

INNOVATION ARE 

AT THE FOREFRONT 

AT BODEGA PIRINEOS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


SPAIN 

DISCOVERY 

its 700 hectares under vine, now groups together 

150 families of winegrowers who produce approximately 

25% of Somontano wines. The vineyards are 

divided into four clearly demarcated areas, producing 

a varied range of wines. “Due to the microclimates, 

the variety of soil types, location and elevation, 

we can produce each of them in such a way as 

to showcase the unique character of Somontano”, 

adds Ortas Garcès. 

For the same reason, the co-operative has no intention 

of simply aping international grape varieties, 

but rather emphasise “the unique features of 

Somontano with its freshness which transcends 

the style of each variety”. The winery’s bid to differentiate 

its products has prompted it to combine 

these varieties with native grapes like Moristel and 

Parraleta. Since the outset, it has made a point of 

promoting local varieties through experimentation 

and winemaking projects. Its first wine, Señorio de 

Lazan which is made from Moristel among other 

grapes, offers tangible proof of its policy. Both the 

winery’s single varietals and its blends have now 

drawn increasing praise from wine critics. Its red 

Marboré label was awarded a double gold medal by 

Gilbert & Gaillard in 2022. 

The winery has an experienced team and technologically 

advanced equipment and has always stood 

out for its taste for research and innovation. It often 

has more than one project on the go at the same 

time. Recently, it has ventured into production 

of some singular offerings, in the form of orange 

wines aka white wines fermented as reds with 

soaking. “These are very aromatic wines recalling 

the Macabeus which were traditionally produced 

locally and had great ageability”, explains Silvia 

Arruego, the winery’s director. These new initiatives 

have earned the bodega numerous awards. 

The latest of these is an endorsement from the 

government of Aragon for companies that have 

made a commitment towards greater transparency, 

sustainability and respect for the environment. The 

appellation’s first winery to produce environmentally-friendly 

wines, it has always been involved 

in many projects promoting clean winegrowing. 

For 2022, it is planning to install 270 solar panels 

which will provide 20% of its energy usage. Bodega 

Pirineos certainly lives up to its emblem of a wild 

horse in the Pyrenees – it is constantly in motion. 

WINEMAKER JESÚS ASTRAIN FROM BODEGA PIRINEOS 

BODEGA PIRINEOS COMBINES TRADITIONAL AND MODERN FACILITIES 


53

A LEGACY OF FAMILY 

WINE GENERATIONS 

IN SOUTH AFRICA 

BY SAMARIE SMITH DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


A book on South African wine pioneers and the dedication to their family 

heritage is a guaranteed page-turner that will draw you in with colourful 

characters as you devour each page. 

WELLINGTON IS HOME TO THE DIVERSE VINEYARDS BOSMAN WINES TAPS INTO 


SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

When the Dutch planted the first vines in 

1652 as a necessary refreshment station relieving 

scurvy-ridden sailors on their Spice Route 

voyage, it was never the intention to make wine. 

Nor did they foresee the start of a booming industry 

with the first crush in 1659 that would, three 

centuries later, account for 10% of the country’s 

total GDP. 

Alas, a chequered history followed as the country 

soldiered through colonialism, phylloxera, Apartheid, 

and fierce international opposition; yet, 

these perennial plants (and their custodians) survived 

and thrived. Once Apartheid finally ceased, 

a new world opened for South African wines in 

the 90s. 

The world was poring over the Cape Dutch architecture, 

magnificent gables, and lush vineyards. 

But more so, it was the elixir in the barrels housed 

behind these whitewashed walls intriguing them 

most. Stories rapidly unfolded of families dedicated 

to the craft of winemaking as the industry 

took shape. Then, armed with renewed confidence, 

many braved a lifestyle change that included 

a fierce commitment to the betterment of 

the environment and the surrounding communities, 

ensuring their businesses stayed resilient in 

a modernising world. 

The Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge 

results included some of the oldest family-owned 

wine farms from around the Cape, true to a craft 

gifted by previous generations and nurtured for 

those to come. 

RIJK MELCK AND HIS WIFE KIM FROM MURATIE 

THE MURATIE WINE TASTING ROOM 

MURATIE 

The Simonsberg ward in the Stellenbosch wine 

district is steeped in history, dating back to 1685 

when Governor Simon van der Stel granted the 

first farms. Muratie’s old-world charm includes 

a small building that the first owner Laurens 

Campher built for his family in that same year. 

What followed was a serendipitous tale of a farm 

that once belonged to one Martin Melck in 1763, 

changed hands, and found its way back to the 

Melck family in 1987. 


55

SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

VICTOR, VERA AND NORA SPERLING AT THEIR FAMILY FARM IN STELLENBOSCH, DELHEIM 

Owner Rijk Melck shares his late father Ronnie’s 

lifelong dream: 

“In the late 1950s, as a young winemaker working 

for Farmers Winery, they bought grapes from Annemarie 

Canitz, who owned Muratie and shared 

its history. Despite many eager buyers, she wanted 

to see it return to the Melck family, given my father 

would respect its classicism”. 

Muratie pays homage to the individuals who lived 

there 300 years ago, naming some wines after 

them, like Ansela van de Caab, Campher’s wife. 

Two months before Melck’s father passed away, 

they won the coveted General Smuts Trophy with 

a Cabernet Sauvignon at the SA Young Wine Show. 

“It was a good send off for my father; he saw his 

dream come true”. 

And the Muratie Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 did it 

again, scoring 91 points with Gilbert & Gaillard, 

and the Laurens Campher White Blend 2019, 

92 points. 

Melck left his career as a medical doctor after his 

father passed away to continue the legacy. “I needed 

to be here, to guide and protect it”. 

DELHEIM 

Staying in the Simonsberg ward, the Sperling family 

has a loyal following, initiated by their late father, 

Michael Hans Sperling, fondly known as ‘Spatz’. 

He was the nephew of Hans Otto Hoheisen (who 

bought Delheim in 1938) and journeyed to South 

Africa onboard the Winchester Castle in 1951 to work 

for Hoheisen as post-war Germany had little to offer. 

In 1971, Spatz became one of the founders of the first 

wine route in South Africa and helped create a wine 

tourism enterprise second to none. 

Today the farm solely belongs to the Sperling family. 

His widow, Vera, still resides on the farm; 

so does his eldest son Victor Sperling and eldest 

daughter Nora Sperling-Thiel with their families, 

serving as directors of Delheim. 

“There has always been a natural development in the 

right direction. Like when Nongcebo ‘Noni’ Langa 

came to work here as an intern and worked her way 

up to become the winemaker with Roelof Lotriet as 


SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

cellarmaster. Family businesses have the freedom 

to make these choices”, Victor added. Affirmation 

in the Delheim Chardonnay 2021 and the Delheim 

Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 reeling in 92 points. 

THE 5 TH AND 4 TH PAUL DE VILLIERS FROM LANDSKROON 

LANDSKROON 

Jacques de Villiers, the ancestor of the present-day 

de Villiers family of Landskroon, arrived in the 

Cape from Niort, France, in 1689. He first acquired 

the farm Boschendal before starting the legacy of 

Landskroon. 

Set against the southwestern slopes of the Paarl 

Mountain is Landskroon Wine Estate, 330 hectares 

with 160 under vine. Cellarmaster and fifth-generation 

Paul De Villiers runs the estate with his brother 

Hugo. 

A warm smile stretches across Paul De Villiers’s 

face, etched with fine lines of wisdom. “Exactly 100 

years after the farm was established in 1874, the first 

wine was bottled in 1974”. 

Albeit change was inevitable, a solid score for their 

Shiraz (92 points) reflects the consistent quality. 

“Three years ago, we replaced an image of the farm 

entrance with the family crest, and the new modern 

look was well received”. 

De Villiers joined the farm in the 80s and delights 

in celebrating their heritage and wine range named 

after all the Pauls who made wine here. 

With three daughters in diverse careers outside of 

wine, it is still a mystery who will fill his shoes, but 

they are certainly heading in a steadfast direction. 

THE DE VILLIERS FAMILY MEMBERS WORKING ON LANDSKROON 

DIEMERSDAL 

The cool, undulated Durbanville valleys are synonymous 

with Sauvignon Blanc, as 92 points for 

the Diemersdal The Journal Sauvignon Blanc 2021 

suggests. Yet, their Pinotage 2020 (92 points) and 

Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (93 points) from the 

same range impressed with great fruit definition 

- its vineyards framed with Table Mountain as the 

backdrop. 

Granted to free burgher Hendrik Sneewind in 1698, 


57

THREE GENERATIONS IN 

THE DIEMERSDAL 

VINEYARDS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

KOBUS BURGER AND HIS 

FAMILY ON RIERVALLEI 

IN ROBERTSON 

THE MERWIDA 

FAMILY 


SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

Captain Diemer married his widow, hence the 

estate’s name, with an inventory confirming that 

wine has been made here for over three centuries. 

The Louw family acquired Diemersdal in 1885, 

with Thys Louw, the 6 th generation, holding the 

reins. Still farming with wheat and canola on 

these 340 hectares of land (including protected 

Renosterbosveld), wine production covers 90% of 

the business, with 180 hectares under vine. 

“I am a firm believer in the concentration achievable 

from dryland vineyards, producing some of 

the finest wines in the world. The oldest vines on 

the farm were planted in 1974, a Pinotage block my 

grandfather and father made wine from, followed 

by myself and my young son”. 

DIEMERSDAL CELLAR 

KOBUS BURGER - CEO OF RIETVALLEI WINE ESTATE 

RIETVALLEI 

Family legacies are a unique selling point for the 

Robertson Wine Valley, where generations have deposited 

heart and soul into the land. Rietvallei is a 

215-hectare family farm planted with 119 hectares of 

vines. It has been in the custodianship of the Burger 

family for six generations – Alewyn Burger bought 

the farm for his son (Jacobus Francois) in 1864. The 

latter planted the legendary 1908-muscadel, a quarter 

of a hectare still yielding outstanding quality. 

Sixth-generation CEO Kobus Burger chuckles as he 

tells how his dad became rather anxious when his 

first two children were girls. 

“My great-great-grandfather had 20 children, and 

he adopted another child. When they skipped a 

baptism one year, the priest visited the farm, fearing 

illness had befallen their household!” 

To his father’s relief, twin boys made their appearance 

four years later to continue the family tradition. 

“My late father opened many doors for us, releasing 

the first wine under the Rietvallei brand in 1976 and 

building a cellar with cold fermentation facilities in 

the 80s”. 

Apart from falling in love with cultivars like Cabernet 

Franc, he still makes the Rietvallei 1908 Red 

Muscadel. 

“When my father arrived at the farm, a man called 

Jan Vytjie taught him how to make Muscadel 


59

SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

from a recipe my grandfather nailed to the back 

of the cellar door”. 

A staggering 94 points affirmed his grandfather’s 

winning formula for the 2018 vintage of this wine, 

with generational knowledge adding that pinch 

of excellence. The Rietvallei Cabernet Franc 2016 

(92 points) was tight on its heels, a testimony of 

every generation’s unique contribution. 

MERWIDA 

PIERRE AND SCHALK VAN DER MERWE - BROTHERS AND OWNERS OF MERWIDA 

The Du Toitskloof mountains guard Merwida Winery’s 

800 hectares of vineyards in the Breede River 

Valley, where Willem Petrus van der Merwe laid the 

foundation eight generations ago; today, it is one of 

the largest private cellars and leading Fairtrade producers 

in Southern Africa. 

Embracing the sustainability theme for the 2022 

Cape Wine Expo in October, Merwida intends 

to highlight its generational commitment to 

viticulture. 

While owner-cousins Schalk and Pierre van der 

Merwe are farming with their sons, the custodians 

of a 1,000-hectare sustainable gem comprising 

600 hectares of protected wetlands, Schalk’s 

daughter Lieza, the only female, ties up the operation 

as marketing and facility manager. 

“While being mindful of rejuvenating the brand, 

our core philosophy is to preserve everything 

and everyone around us, including animals and 

plants, for future generations”. 

Passionate about its communities, the family established 

a community centre on the farm with 

indoor sporting facilities, a day-care centre, and 

an after-school learning facility with access to 

much-needed stationery. 

They have recently opened a tasting room, “a natural 

progression when younger generations became 

involved”. 

OPSTAL 

Opstal’s pristine surroundings are a vital selling 

point for this Breedekloof farm in the Slanghoek 


THE LOUW FAMILY 

FROM OPSTAL ZAK, KARMIN, RIA, 

STANLEY AND ATTIE 

THE CLUVER FAMILY 

Valley, but so is its story. Here, seven family generations helped carve out its unique 

brand equity, with the third generation of farmworkers contributing to their success. 

“A particular dynamic exists in a family business, regardless of the scale and the generational 

assemblage”, explains winemaker Attie Louw, now holding the reins. 

“Our great-great-grandfather and the generations that followed were excellent farmers 

and laid that foundation for us. Everything is built on sustainable practices, yet we are 

in our infancy as a brand”. 

They are unapologetic about showing the unique essence of Slanghoek, utilising the natural 

acidity of Carignan and Pinotage, the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and the 

juiciness of Cinsaut in their Carl Everson Cape Blend 2019. 

PAUL CLUVER 

“Beautifully made” came the verdict with 94 points for this Elgin Estate’s Riesling Noble 

Late Harvest 2021, their classic Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2019 scoring 93 points. 

The Cluver family embodies pioneering Elgin excellence, their 2,000-hectare De Rust 

farm home to the first cool-climate Elgin vineyards. 

By 1821, 4,500 ox-wagons annually crossed the steep and treacherous mountains hiding 

this lush valley on the other side, but no-one dreamt of planting vines here. In 1948, the 

Cluvers planted fruit orchards, yet it was only in 1987 when Dr. Paul Cluver partnered with 

the viticulturist Ernst Le Roux, that the first vines were planted. 


61

SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

With a fourth-generation family business that didn’t originate as a wine farm, Dr Cluver believes 

wine is what holds the family together. 

“It gives me enormous satisfaction to work with an expert family team and be surrounded by 

passionate young people every day”, shares patriarch Dr. Cluver. 

His great-grandfather Mathys De Villiers bought the farm in 1896 and wrote in his will that it 

was not to be sold for four generations. However, when Dr. Cluver’s father was due to take over, 

he was an established psychiatrist in Cape Town. His wife Getrude gave up her comfortable life 

to manage a farm with no electricity and started the De Rust Futura school on the farm in 1957, 

boasting 1,000 learners today. 

A similar path awaited Dr. Cluver’s wife, Songvei, when he became a brain surgeon, even though 

she had electricity, and he left the practice in 1989 and joined her at the farm. 

“This year marks our winemaker (his son-in-law) Andries Burger’s 26 th harvest. And, apples 

would never have intrigued three of my children to join the family business!” 

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS 

The Bosman family have lived and worked on the same farm for eight generations, while many of 

their employees can trace their heritage back at least five generations. 

They have an innate understanding of the value of their mutual interdependence, and so practice 

an inclusive business model where the employees own a 26% share in the business. 

Their motto, Fides, Spes et Amor (Faith, Hope & Love) is palpable in every facet of the business as 

they live and work together, passing on values and skills from one generation to the next. 

The farm’s history dates to 1699 and that of the Bosman Family to 1810. Until the late 19 th century, 

farmers propagated their own vines, but when phylloxera decimated the world’s vineyards, farmers 

had to start grafting vine cuttings onto disease-resistant rootstock. 

So, in the early 1900s, vine nurseries started up, particularly in Wellington. In 1947 6 th generation 

THE FIRST BOSMAN ARRIVED AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE IN 1707 AND THE FAMILY CONTINUES THE LEGACY 


SOUTH AFRICA 

HISTORY 

Petrus Bosman began his own vine nursery, closing 

his wine cellar a decade later to focus solely on the 

nursery. 

But it was always the Bosman family’s dream to 

start making wine again, and 8th generation Petrus 

Bosman was able to do that in 2007 when the ancient 

cellar was renovated, and grapes were pressed 

once again. 

Shortly after that, the transformation deal took 

place, and the company was renamed Bosman Adama, 

in honour of Adam Appollis, a trusted foreman 

on the farm for decades and patriarch to many who 

still live and work on the farm today. 

Until recently, a significant portion of their grapes 

were pressed at the local co-op, but in 2022 the company 

purchased a state-of-the-art organic wine cellar 

in the Paardeberg to give them more control over 

their production. 

Their commitment includes Fairtrade accreditation, 

IWC Champion status, organic certification, 

and raising awareness for sustainable outcomes in 

a business model applied to a healthy environment 

and empowered people. 

While the farm can produce quality wines on a large 

scale, they also make revered single-vineyard wines. 

They have two vineyards certified by the Old Vine 

Project (OVP) because they are more than 35 years 

old, making their South African wine story a rich 

and diverse one. 

The Bosman Adama White 2021, which scored 

91 points, was made from one of these OVP vineyards, 

which is also certified organic. 

“Creating opportunities for advancement within 

our community is not simply a good idea; it is a 

way of life. We are already working on a strategy we 

call Generation 9 to ensure our business future is 

fitting,” shares Petrus Bosman. 

With the pillars of their business being Heritage, 

Innovation and Sustainability underpinning the business, 

credible stories are built into every range of 

wine. 

“When you focus on added value for people and nature, 

you see immense growth,” he continues. “My 

father was always positive about South African agriculture, 

and so he inspired his children to continue 

in his footsteps.” 

BOSMAN WINES DATES BACK EIGHT GENERATIONS 

PETRUS AND CARLA BOSMAN WITH THEIR CHILDREN ON LELIENFONTEIN 


63

MORGON VS FLEURIE: 

RIVALS OR COMPLEMENTARY 

APPELLATIONS? 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


There is not a shadow of a doubt that Morgon and Fleurie are among the most 

famous of the 12 Beaujolais appellations. Though neighbours, however, they 

differ and boast qualities which, whilst potentially creating rivalry, can also 

make them extremely complementary due to their established reputations. 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE GUILLOT-GONIN 


BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

HARVESTING AT CHÂTEAU DE PIZAY 

Even when appellations have many points in common, being located near to 

each other can also create differences. Situated on predominantly granite 

soils at elevations ranging from 220 to 480 metres, these two flagship Beaujolais 

appellations are dominated by hills. In a seemingly duel-like confrontation, the 

Chapel of the Madonna, built in 1866, offers superb vistas out over the vineyards 

of Fleurie, while also surveying and answering the 352-metre-high Côte du Py, 

which symbolises the Morgon appellation. In Fleurie, the all-granite soils in 

the 880-hectare appellation area are farmed by 250 wine growers and produce 

41,000 hectolitres every year. This stands in contrast to the more varied soils of 

granite (52%), piedmont (37%) and blue stones (11%) across Morgon’s 1,130-hectare 

vineyard, where 400 growers and wineries produce 57,600 hectolitres of wine. 

These differing soil types explain why Morgon exudes cherry aromas, whilst 

Fleurie does not. The compellingly powerful Morgon wines echo the finesse and 

minerally, floral edge in Fleurie. These differences go right to the core of the 

wineries. We have selected seven remarkable quality estates that act as benchmarks 

for these two major Beaujolais crus. 

THE JOYS OF FLEURIE 

The legendary wine region of Burgundy is right next door, almost inviting its 

neighbour to take up the quality torch. From the south of Mâcon to the north 

of Lyon, Beaujolais’s 13,500 hectares of vines planted entirely with Gamay for 


65

BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

CÉLINE CHARRIER, SALES MANAGER OF 

DOMAINE DU MONT VERRIER 

GÉRARD LEGRAND, OWNER OF DOMAINE 

DU MONT VERRIER SINCE 2007 

GÉRARD LEGRAND IN HIS VINEYARDS AT 

DOMAINE DU MONT VERRIER 

HARVESTING GRAPES AT DOMAINE DU 

MONT VERRIER 

the reds versus 3% Chardonnay for the whites 

are home to 12 Protected Designations of Origin 

(PDO), whose compelling identity is delicately 

factored into the equation. To the west of the 

village of Fleurie, with its population of just 

1,300, steep inclines clad with granite sand are 

planted to vines. The topography here contrasts 

with the lower part of the village, where the 

terrain is more akin to rolling hills. A magnificent 

17 th -century stone castle, whose history has 

close ties with the Hospices de Villefranche and 

the Sisters Hospitallers of the Sainte Marthe de 

Beaune Congregation, provides the backdrop 

for Domaine Mont Verrier. The estate embraces 

a magnificent 40-hectare vineyard and a typical 

orchard with over 60 varieties of fruit trees. It 

boasts hillside vineyard sites in Fleurie, yielding 

intense wines that display a beautiful red 

colour and ripe tannin presence. “Our wines are 

particularly racy and elegant, mainly due to the 

way we manage the estate. We have 60% young 

vines, under 50 years old, that are generally trellised, 

and old vines grown as bush vines”, says 

sales manager Céline Charrier. “With Fleurie, 

customers are generally looking for a wine that 

is fruity but epitomises its terroir and is rounder 

and more balanced on the palate than in the past. 

Younger generations are showing a growing 

interest in these wines and also in more natural, 

vegan or sulphite-free bottlings”. 

With Gamay the only permitted grape variety for 

the red wines, the differences between labels stem 

from the vineyard sites – the soil types, the age of 

the vines and vineyard management, the vintage, 

the maturity and expertise of the winegrower, the 

way they make wine and the type of tanks or length 

of soaking, for example. This typicity is found at 

Château Grand’Grange, another iconic Fleurie 

producer. Located at the point where the Beaujolais 

crus area begins, its incredible history started 

in 1810 with the purchase of land by a relative of 

Napoleon Bonaparte. This was followed in 1842 by 

building of a chateau and outbuildings from the 


BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

region’s granite rocks. Among the outbuildings, 

a majestic 60-metre long barn now houses the 

winery that lent the estate its name. Bought by Per 

Hakon Schmidt and Marianne Philip in 2009, the 

vineyard basks in optimal sunshine with a dozen 

hectares facing south and south-east around the 

chateau. “The soils in Morgon and Fleurie are 

different and they therefore produce different 

wines”, stresses estate manager Andrea Pugliese. 

“The techniques used also have an influence. 

Making any generalisations about the two crus 

is challenging because they also have their own 

specific named vineyard sites. Fleurie wines 

tend to be fleshy and velvety with fruity aromas, 

whereas Morgon has a distinctively powerful, 

dense palate, which expresses the nuances of the 

six “climats” that make the appellation unique”. 

At the tip of Morgon, Domaine Lathuilière-Gravallon 

has been producing 11 wines under 5 different 

appellations – Beaujolais, Chiroubles, Brouilly 

and of course Fleurie and Morgon – since 1875, 

spanning 5 generations and 10 hectares. Fleurie 

is very popular in export markets, especially the 

United Kingdom, whilst the United States has a 

soft spot for Morgon. “Rivalry or competition is 

not appropriate here as both appellations complement 

each other”, says Cédric Lathuilière, who 

owns the property with his wife Cathy. “Morgon 

is a characterful wine that is robust yet fruity. 

Fleurie is elegant, velvety and very moreish. 

They are very popular with younger generations 

and consumers who have gone off wines that 

are too alcoholic or tannic. Our wines are clean, 

fruity and light compared to other appellations, 

and they also offer excellent value for money in 

today’s marketplace”. 

CATHY LATHUILIÈRE OF DOMAINE LATHUILIÈRE-GRAVALLON 

IN FRONT OF THE ESTATE’S BARRELS 

CÉDRIC LATHUILIERE OF DOMAINE LATHUILIÈRE-GRAVALLON TASTING THE WINES 

MORGON: 

BEAUJOLAIS’ OTHER SUPREMO 

Under the mindful watch of the famous Côte 

du Py, Morgon is the most extensive of the 


67

ANDREA PUGLIESE, 

THE MANAGER AT CHÂTEAU 

GRAND’GRANGE, 

IN THE VINEYARDS 

DURING PRUNING 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

Beaujolais crus. Ensconced amidst hills and 

seemingly divided into two by the rivers Morcille 

and Douby, it covers land within the boundaries 

of Villié-Morgon. The wines are defined by their 

stone fruit aromas and fine, delicate tannins that 

promote perfect ageability. Its blessed location, 

a great reputation and volume of wine produced 

could allow Morgon to overshadow Fleurie, but 

according to many winegrowers this is not the 

case. They do, however, concur that economically, 

some realities cannot be denied. “We enjoy 

tasting the fruits of our neighbouring winegrowers 

and learn a lot about their production 

techniques”, claims Andrea Pugliese, manager 

of Château Grand’Grange. “So there is no 

rivalry. However, competition gains the upper 

hand when you have to sell your wines to secure 

particular markets. Morgon is one of the most 

on-trend wines in Beaujolais at the moment”. 

Its popularity is woven into its history. Since 

the Middle Ages, Château de Pizay’s wines have 

found favour with the most demanding Beaujolais 

enthusiasts. The estate boasts 75 hectares of 

vines encompassing several appellations, including 

22 hectares of Morgon, but also a chateau 

converted into a 4-star hotel with a gourmet 

restaurant. This makes it the ideal place to 

discover the charm and pleasures of this magnificent 

region. The region’s flagship Morgon 

wines are full-bodied, robust and powerful. 

They can immediately be distinguished by their 

vibrant garnet hues and strong personality, 

which enable them to withstand the test of time. 

“Morgon and Fleurie are neighbours and at the 

same time different enough not to be rivals but 

rather complementary appellations”, points out 

director Pascal Dufaitre. “Our Morgons are made 

from Gamay grapes, which thrive on clay-loam 

soils. Slightly more tannic with more pronounced 

acidity, they offer a great opportunity for laying 

down wines. After a few years, they glide across 

the palate with a totally mouth-filling feel – they 

are then described as being archetypal Morgon. 

ANDREA PUGLIESE, THE MANAGER AT CHÂTEAU GRAND’GRANGE, 

TASTING THE ESTATE WINES 

LAURENT THEVENET AND HIS FATHER HUGO, THE FOURTH AND FIFTH GENERATIONS 

AT DOMAINE DU PETIT PÉROU 


69

BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

For many years, Morgon was primarily enjoyed in France, whereas Fleurie had 

a more of an export focus, shipping mainly to Switzerland and England. Now, 

Morgon has made a name for itself in export markets, which account for 55% of 

our sales, particularly Canada, Great Britain and the United States”. 

The pleasure of great Morgon is replicated at Domaine du Petit Pérou. For 

5 generations, the Thévenet family has expanded the estate, growing it from 3 

to 18 hectares, including 10 in Morgon, planted mainly on clay soils. The grapes 

come mostly from old vines yielding 40 hectolitres per hectare. The wines are 

fermented using native yeasts. “We produce wines designed for immediate 

drinking, but also Morgon that can be kept for up to 20 years”, says owner 

Hugo Thévenet. “Fleurie is a light, pleasant wine. Morgon is one of the most 

complex Beaujolais crus. The relationship between producers in Beaujolais has 

a strong family feel. We rarely talk about competition among us. There is room 

for everyone in the market”. 

CORINNE GONIN AND JEAN-PHILIPPE GUILLOT 

OF DOMAINE GUILLOT-GONIN IN THEIR VINEYARDS 


LAURENT THEVENET 

IN HIS VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE 

DU PETIT PÉROU 

CORINNE GONIN 

AND JEAN-PHILIPPE GUILLOT OF 

DOMAINE GUILLOT-GONIN 

These values and high standards are echoed at Domaine Guillot-Gonin. At the 

helm of this family-run business since 2001, Jean-Philippe Guillot and Corinne 

Gonin’s mission is to let nature express itself through their terroir-driven wines 

made from grapes harvested by hand at peak ripeness. “The strength of our wines 

comes mainly from the Gamay grape, the king of Beaujolais, which delivers light, 

fruity and easy-drinking wines”, reflects Jean-Philippe Guillot. “Compared to 

Fleurie, Morgon has a more varied range of characters due to its six ‘climats’, 

the three most typical of which influence the Côte du Py, Grands Cras and Les 

Charmes. These really produce three hallmark Morgons that will keep for several 

years”. 

For several generations, the name of Morgon has been an inherent part of 

Domaine de La Croix des Charmes. The property boasts 14 hectares of vines, 

some of them now a hundred years old, across five different appellations. “Every 

day, we count our blessings and consider ourselves lucky to be able to farm such 

a great string of different soils and sub-soils”, says Caroline Chavanne-Trichard, 

who owns the estate with her husband Grégory. “With each new harvest, we 


71

BEAUJOLAIS 

STYLE 

THE CELLAR AT DOMAINE DU PETIT PÉROU 

strive to understand and elicit the full potential 

of each vineyard site. Soil is a major component 

of the quality of a wine and we take great care in 

what we do”. Along with this deep-seated belief 

that they are drawing the quintessential qualities 

from their outstanding location, the couple is also 

determined to hive off different vineyard sites in 

order to enhance them through their complexity 

and typicity. “We make our wines using long, 

traditional Burgundy-style fermentation”, says 

Rémy Chavanne-Trichard. “Some of our wines 

are then matured in oak barrels, not to conceal 

their inherent character but to hone the tannins. 

All this hard work is another reason why Morgon 

wines are popular”. 

GENUINELY COMPLEMENTARY 

PASCAL DUFAITRE IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU DE PIZAY 

Morgon shows more body whilst Fleurie displays 

more fruit and freshness. This may seem like an 

over simplification of their differences, but it 

actually stems from reality. The two appellations 

complement each other and offer instant gratification, 

captivating every palate and taste. “None 

of the crus is better than the others, it is also 

about reputation”, stresses Jean-Philippe Guillot. 

“Fleurie is very well known in some countries, 

mainly thanks to the Swiss who owned houses 

in the appellation area in the 1960s, and now 

it is in high demand among English-speaking 

people”. For many years, few Fleurie winegrowers 

sold direct-to-consumer in France. Conversely, 

these producers already had an export culture, 

spearheaded by wholesalers and the Fleurie 

co-operative winery, which could provide large 

volumes. At that time, Morgon was better known 

in France, primarily because of direct sales of 

bottled wines. The export market arrived later, 

through enterprising winegrowers who chose 

to target a more select consumer audience with 

magnificent wines freighted with finesse and 

fruit. As they age, growths like Morgon take on 


HARVESTING GRAPES 

AT DOMAINE DE LA CROIX 

DES CHARMES 

BOTTLING AT DOMAINE 

DE LA CROIX DES CHARMES 

PRUNING VINES 

AT DOMAINE DE LA CROIX 

DES CHARMES 

the characteristics of Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune. Their aromas and fruitiness 

partner with authentic dishes, but also international cuisine. Aficionados 

say they have the fruitiness of a Beaujolais and the charm of a Burgundy. This 

meaningful description is also valid for those seeking out moreish enjoyment 

in Fleurie, where the fruit, the roundness and easy-drinking qualities act as a 

magnet. Hedonism prevails over snobbery when it comes to wine. Sommeliers 

have led the way in the hospitality industry by expressing the full enjoyment of 

choosing a Beaujolais. Morgon and Fleurie happily accompany a broad range 

of emotions. “The empty bottle verdict favours both appellations”, sums up 

Pascal Dufaitre, director of Château de Pizay. “You could almost say that they 

are articulate without being too difficult to understand. They remain affordable 

at a time when Burgundy, even at entry-level, is experiencing a meteoric 

rise in prices”. There is an undeniable revival of the two appellations in export 

markets, but elsewhere too. Although Morgon, like Côte de Brouilly, holds pride 

of place among Beaujolais wines in most French restaurants, Fleurie is gaining 

its pedigree thanks to efforts by winegrowers to restructure their vineyards and 

wines which, although smaller in quantity, also show great quality. Together, 

they offer the perfect fusion of pleasure and complementarity... 


73

GRAVES, A WINE REGION 

THAT DESERVES SERIOUS 

CONSIDERATION 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


More often than not, only seasoned connoisseurs are familiar with Graves, 

despite the fact that the area produces very affordable, signature Bordeaux 

wines in a complete range of styles. Alain Echalier gives us a run-down of the 

appellation and offers a detailed visit to a selection of wineries. 

THE HORSE GOES BETWEEN THE VINES AT CHÂTEAU ARZAC 


GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

AT CHÂTEAU CLARE WOODLAND IS NEVER FAR AWAY 

The ‘Graves’ and ‘Graves Supérieures’ appellation area extends across a strip of 

land approximately ten kilometres wide along the left bank of the Garonne, from 

Bordeaux to Langon, circumventing Sauternes and Barsac. 

A SHOWCASE FOR TERROIR 

Unlike many French appellations which refer to their home villages, the name Graves 

alludes to its soil strewn with pebbles, gravel and stones of varying sizes, washed down 

by the river Garonne across the geological ages. The gravel is occasionally mixed with 

silt and clay. This type of soil has several advantages: 

- It is poor because it has little organic matter, so the vines are not over-indulged and 

therefore produce concentrated grapes. 

- This concentration is further enhanced by the drainage afforded by the gravel, which 

prevents the vines from receiving excess amounts of water. 

- Lastly, the soils reflect the sunlight, with the gravel radiating heat on the grapes thereby 

improving ripening. 

The region has an Atlantic climate, with the nearby ocean and rivers providing temperate 

conditions. Vines bask in good sunshine and climate change has meant that years with 

less summer sunshine – often challenging vintages – are becoming few and far between. 

Climate change is also at the root of extreme weather events, however – frost, hail, heavy 

downpours and the spread of fungal diseases such as downy and powdery mildew and 

pests. Also, in the event of severe drought, irrigation is now legally authorised with 

special permission – it remains expensive, however, and still very uncommon. 


75

GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

VINEYARD MANAGEMENT 

THIERRY CARREYRE IS THE WINEGROWER AT CHÂTEAU CLARE 

Wine has been made here for longer than in the 

storied Médoc region. In fact, Graves was more 

highly prized until the end of the 18 th century. 

The name ‘Vin de Graves’ first emerged during 

the region’s era of prosperity between the 16 th and 

18 th centuries, when exports to the United Kingdom 

and northern Europe had already begun in earnest. 

Present-day vineyards cover 3,500 hectares farmed 

by 240 winegrowers, more than 80% of whom live 

locally. The region therefore has a vibrancy and 

strong community spirit, in contrast to its more 

northerly neighbour which can sometimes seem a 

little bleak. Here, wine tourism allows you to meet 

genuine farmers. 

Out of the 20 million bottles produced, two-thirds 

are red wine, made primarily from Cabernet-Sauvignon 

and Merlot, with the odd dash of Cabernet 

Franc, Côt – the local name for Malbec – and Petit 

Verdot. The white is made from Semillon and Sauvignon 

Blanc, with some Muscadelle occasionally 

added. Both reds and whites are often matured in 

wooden barrels to soften the tannins and enhance 

aroma. The Graves Supérieures appellation, which 

refers to sweet white wine made from over-ripe 

grapes, now accounts for just a fraction of overall 

production. With the introductions over, a visit to 

some of the local wineries is a must. 

CHÂTEAU CLARE, WHERE 

VINEYARDS FLIRT WITH WOODLAND 

Middle-aged Thierry Carreyre and his wife are now 

at the helm of this 15-hectare estate. ‘Clare’ is named 

after Claire, the love of a family ancestor’s life. The 

couple are fifth-generation incumbents. They live 

on the farm and through hard work have managed 

to almost double their vineyard acreage. Thierry 

looks after the winemaking process whilst his wife 

is tasked with sales. 

The winery is located in a clearing in Landiras 

forest, in the South-West of the Graves appellation 

area. As Thierry explains, their situation 

naturally promotes a form of agro-forestry. The 


GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

nearby forest offers many advantages, one of 

which is protection against spring frosts. The 

soils are slightly cooler than in other parts of the 

region, and this is mirrored in the wine styles. The 

winery is equally sheltered, rendering the use of 

temperature-controlled tanks during winemaking 

redundant. Here, the gravel is deep, going down 5 to 

6 metres, which is perfect for drainage and allows the 

roots to plunge deep into the soil in search of water. 

Red wine accounts for 80% of output, with a ratio 

of 60%-40% Merlot/Cabernet-Sauvignon, giving 

the wines a decade or so of ageability. The vines 

are around 30 years old. Although 2019 was a fairly 

hot year for Merlot, once again, the coolness stemming 

from the forest extended hang-time. Thierry 

Carreyre is aiming to go above and beyond the 

requirements of HVE certification, so he sows cover 

crops in every other row of vines so as not to use 

weedkillers and uses biological control methods 

rather than pesticides. This has become a requisite, 

and is also what consumers expect. 

The desired wine style is fruit-forward, with cherries. 

A decade or so ago, the couple sold their 

wines primarily to the trade then began bottling. 

The name of the first label was an obvious choice 

– Louis, after their son, now 10. In cooler years, 

they also produce a little rosé, but rather than use 

the Bordeaux Rosé appellation – because Graves 

cannot be used for rosés – they prefer to market it 

under the Vin De France label. That’s because the 

name Bordeaux has become slightly tarnished, 

says Carreyre, based on feedback from private 

customers gleaned during wine exhibitions. 

AT CHÂTEAU CLARE, LIFE IS NURTURED 

BETWEEN THE ROWS OF VINES 

WINE TANKS AT DOMAINES DE LA METTE 

DOMAINES DE LA METTE: 

CONSISTENCY 

This winery belongs to a single owner, Jean-Baptiste 

Solorzano, and covers 82 hectares, including 

62 within the Graves appellation area. It 

is divided into 4 different locations, producing 

wines marketed under 4 different chateau names 

(Château Millet, Prieuré-Les-Tours, Martin and 

Claron). Technical director Vincent Despujols 

introduces us to the estate. 


77

GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

Château Millet, in Portets, is the company’s hub. The chateau, rebuilt at the end of 

the 19 th century, houses the farm buildings. Located on the banks of the Garonne, 

it is picture-postcard pretty and provides the perfect setting for hosting guests at 

open-day events. 

The soils farmed across the different locations obviously contain gravel, but not just 

gravel, especially as you move farther away from the river. There is also limestone 

or small stony gravel. Harvesting is often early because the soils can be hot. 

Most of the wines produced are red, with just 10 to 12,000 bottles of white a year. 

The white Graves appellation is not as well-known and some white vineyards 

have even be converted to red. Cabernet-Sauvignon is grown in equal proportions 

to Merlot. In fact, over the past ten years, Cabernet-Sauvignon has even 

been replanted because with climate change it is becoming increasingly relevant. 

Château Martin has 4% Petit Verdot and Château Claron 3% Carmenère. The vines 

are pruned very late in order to delay the growing season as much as possible, and 

avoid the risk of frost during the critical budburst phase. 

There is no second wine here, every effort is poured into making the chateau’s four 

wines and the range delivers fairly consistent quality. Good concentration is the 

chosen objective. Pre-fermentation cold soaking lasting a few days is often used, 

then temperatures are gradually allowed to rise yet under supervision. The winery 

CHÂTEAU MILLET 


GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

is equipped with temperature-controlled tanks for 

that purpose. The wines are matured in barrels, 

some with staves – or planks of oak immersed in 

the tanks – before being blended. 

The wines have a price tag of 9 to 10 euros a bottle 

and are mostly sold in supermarkets, along with 

exports to the United States and Belgium. The 

aim is to produce wines that are enjoyable yet also 

show good length. The 2018s and 2019s are now 

commercially available and more recently, a little 

micro-oxygenation has been introduced to soften 

the tannins. 

CHÂTEAU FAYAU, THE MÉDEVILLE FAMILY HOME 

JEAN MÉDEVILLE ET FILS: 

A FULL RANGE OF GRAVES 

The vineyards at Jean Médeville et Fils are now 

represented by the 7 th generation of the family, 

brothers Jean and Marc. The family home is 

actually located on the other side of the Garonne, 

at Château Fayau in the village of Cadillac. 

Although the winery is situated on the ‘right bank’ 

the company boasts several properties on the ‘left 

bank’, in the Graves area. 

Peyreblanque (or white stone) is an 11-hectare 

chateau named after its limestone soils. The earth 

is red but strewn with white stones. Situated 

40 km South of Bordeaux, the property is perfect 

for crafting white wines matured in oak barrels. 

The focus here is on pre-fermentation and maturation 

aromas rather than the fruit. 

Château du Mouret is located in the centre of the 

Graves appellation. It has 18 hectares under vine – 

the main purpose here is to produce fruit-forward 

wines. To achieve this, the fruit is processed at 

low temperatures. With its 15 hectares of vines, 

Château Boyrein is also designed for producing 

ultra-fruity wines; both produce red and white 

Graves. Lastly, Château du Seuil boasts 10 ha in 

Cérons. More about that later. 

The company pools production equipment. It 

produces two-thirds red wine and one third white. 

The red varietal range is divided between Cabernet-Sauvignon 

and Merlot. “We like Cabernet 

here”, says Marc. “The variety yields less opulent 

CHÂTEAU PEYREBLANQUE 


79

JEAN, IN THE BLUE SHIRT, 

AND MARC MÉDEVILLE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

wines than single varietal Merlot, but it’s more 

balanced. And now that harvesting can be done 

quickly, we can pick Cabernet at precisely the right 

level of ripeness”. Marc handles vineyard management 

and his brother is tasked with winemaking. 

All the farms are being converted to organic, 

though Château du Seuil has been farmed organically 

for 20 years. “It makes perfect sense”, he 

says, “because I also go shooting and fishing!” 

Although they have never been strong believers 

in chemicals, the ban on some plant protection 

products, followed by glyphosate being outlawed, 

quite naturally led them to organic farming. When 

you reach middle age, you have to set yourself new 

challenges, which is why Marc enjoys using tillage 

and has also introduced a few bee hives. 

Although the appellation sells quite well in 

France, sudden variations in the weather caused 

by climate change are causing problems. During 

our interview – in April – vineyards witnessed 

a 32°C change in temperature, in just one week. 

And rainfall is becoming extremely variable. This 

is only the start of challenges to come! 

XAVIER JAUBERT, CHAIRMAN OF THE NAMESAKE ESTATE 

VIGNOBLES JAUBERT: 

PROMOTING THE APPELLATION 

Xavier Jaubert is president of this family-run firm, 

and his sister is CEO. It boasts a total 201 hectares, 

including 42 in Graves. 

The high-end selection is made at Château Arzac, 

a vineyard site with 7 hectares of red vines (70% 

Merlot, 30% Cabernet-Sauvignon) and 3 hectares 

of white (70% Sauvignon blanc, 30% Sémillon). 

Located in the northern part of the appellation 

area, the vineyards are farmed by hand and by 

horse. Everything is fermented in barrels using 

gravity, to avoid altering the flavour of the juice. 

After two years’ maturation, the wines are bottled 

without being filtered. 

Jaubert explains that the Graves appellation holds 

a strong hand. Located just South of the famous 

Pessac-Léognan appellation, it is its younger 

sibling and before 1982, there was no difference 

between the two. Admittedly, he jokes, its name in 


81

GRAVES 

APPELLATION 

English requires explanation but there are some real gems and good international 

acclaim. 

It is important to understand that the array of terroirs here paves the way for a 

comprehensive range of wines, from concentrated to fine tannins, freshness and 

fruitiness. Another property, Chateau Lagrave d’Arzac, produces wines made in 

stainless steel tanks J4 which sell in supermarkets for 6 to 8 euros. 

The company also has a creative side. To help consumers engage with the vineyard 

sites, a QR code on the bottle label J5 starts an application where the winegrower 

can pop out in augmented reality and join guests at the dinner table! 

GRAVES SUPÉRIEURES AND CÉRONS: 

WITNESSES OF OUR TIMES 

These appellations are now only produced on a very boutique scale – only 11 producers 

are currently listed. The wines are entirely sweet white, made primarily from 

Sémillon and occasionally enhanced with a dash of Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle. 

They must contain at least 34g/litre of residual sugar, but sometimes have 

HORSES AT WORK AT VIGNOBLES JAUBERT 


THE WINERY 

AT VIGNOBLES JAUBERT 

HORSE-DRAWN 

TILLAGE AT CHÂTEAU ARZAC 

a lot more. Although the famous neighbouring villages of Barsac and Sauternes 

are in competition with them, there is no denying that sweetness in itself – even 

though it is natural because it comes from very late harvesting and raisining on the 

vine – is no longer in vogue. Even the chateaux of Sauternes are increasing their 

production of dry white wine. 

Of the winegrowers we have featured, Vignobles Medeville and Vignobles Jaubert 

make or have made some, but in minute quantities which are sometimes bought 

by their wholesalers… for their own personal consumption! That’s a shame because 

these golden wines with their aromas of candied fruits make the perfect match for 

puddings or for spicy dishes. 

After all, is the ultimate purpose of wine not to end up on the table? To sum up: 

white, fruit-forward Graves works for the aperitif; oaky white Graves pairs with 

elaborate fish dishes or meat in a creamy sauce; with lightly-flavoured meats or 

tapas, a simple red Graves is the right choice, whereas a powerful Graves is more 

suited to game. And for an afternoon snack or pudding, the go-to wine is a Graves 

Supérieures! All that for a few dozen euros. It’s time to treat yourself! 


83

JACQUÈRE AND ALTESSE VIE 

FOR A-LISTER STATUS 

BY CHRISTELLE ZAMORA 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES, 

CIVS, LAURENT MADELON 

Savoy is France’s smallest wine region and has made a name for itself as a fount 

of zippy white wines, whose light, fresh characters have made them undeniable 

crowd-pleasers. Altesse and Jacquère are the star performers in the region’s 

mountain vineyards, and here’s what to expect from them. 

THE VINEYARDS OF SAVOY 


SAVOY 

GRAPES 

THE WHITE ALTESSE GRAPE VARIETY 

S 

“ avoy wines have a bright future ahead. Global warming is benefitting our red 

wines and their iconic Mondeuse grape variety. For the whites, Jacquère and 

Altesse account for 350 and 880 hectares respectively out of our 2,000 hectares 

under vine. We have a range of twenty endemic grape varieties that produce 

low ABV wines and that’s undeniably an advantage for us”. Franck Berkules, 

communications manager with the Savoy wine marketing board, waxes lyrical 

about the region’s wines, also pointing out that exports have risen from 2 to 5% 

due to a surge in the British market, which now outperforms Belgium, long the 

leading destination for Savoy wines abroad. “85% of our exports are now shipped 

to the American and Canadian markets, then to Japan and Asia. Sweden and 

Norway are also keen to tap into smaller wine regions with great diversity. The 

economic crisis and spiralling prices of Burgundy, too, have been a bonus for our 

white wines”, he comments. 

HIGH-ELEVATION WINES WITH LOW ABV 

The vineyards of Savoy are divided into around twenty small ‘islands’ or geographical 

strips in four departments across the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region – 

Savoie (80%), Haute-Savoie (8%), Isère (8%) and Ain (4%). In Haute-Savoie, vines 

grow along the southern banks of Lake Geneva (Ripaille, Crépy, Marignan and 

Marin), the Arve valley (Ayze), the Usses valley (Frangy) and along the banks of 

the Rhone (Chautagne). They are also planted along the western slopes of the 


85

SAVOY 

GRAPES 

FRANCK BERKULES, HEAD OF COMMUNICATIONS AT 

THE SAVOY WINE MARKETING BOARD 

THE WHITE JACQUÈRE GRAPE VARIETY 

Mont du Chat (Marestel, Monthoux, Jongieux) 

and the Cluse de Chambéry (Monterminod, St 

Jeoire Prieuré, Chignin, Chignin Bergeron, Apremont 

and Abymes which spills out into Isère). 

Lastly, the geographical designations Montmélian, 

Arbin, Cruet and St-Jean de la Porte face 

South-East along the right banks of the Combe 

de Savoie. “Altesse is the grape variety grown in 

the Roussette de Savoie appellation area and its 

four designations – Fangy, Monthoux, Marestel 

and Monterminod – but some winegrowers do 

not label it with a designation”, explains Berkules. 

Altesse and Jacquère are long-standing Savoy 

grape varieties. “In my opinion, Altesse probably 

came from Austria. It looks like Furmint, the 

white Hungarian grape variety which apparently 

originated in Croatia. Altesse is still grown in the 

more boutique-scale Seyssel appellation where 

it combines with Molette to lend wines lots of 

finesse”, he adds. Along both banks of the Rhone, 

between Haute-Savoie and Ain, the Seyssel appellation 

produces still white wines from Altesse 

and sparkling wines blended from Altesse and 

Molette. “Jacquère is ubiquitous across Savoy. It 

is part of the varietal range for the Vin de Savoie 

and Bugey appellations and its local growths, 

Abymes, Apremont and Chignin”. 

The difference between the two grape varieties 

lies in their flavour profile. “Jacquère instils a lot 

of minerality and acidity in the wines, which are 

fairly tense. The reputation of our white wines 

has been tarnished by their association with 

fatty Savoy cheeses. They were long considered 

only good enough for drinking with fondues, 

tartiflettes and raclettes in ski resorts. But times 

have changed”, stresses Berkules. 

The advantage of both grape varieties is that 

they do not come with high alcohol levels, even 

with climate change. Jacquère has an ABV of 

11.5% whereas Altesse is never higher than 13%. 

“Altesse is a more floral grape variety which can 

be likened to Chenin with a candied edge. It 

produces age-worthy wines that pair with food”. 


SAVOY 

GRAPES 

WINES WITH AGEABILITY 

THOMAS VEYRON USES TIME-HONOURED TECHNIQUES WITH HIS FATHER 

AT DOMAINE ADRIEN VEYRON, PICKING THE GRAPES BY HAND 

As remarkable as it may seem, Jean-Claude 

Masson’s estate is probably the only one that 

specialises in mature vintages of Jacquère. This 

internationally renowned winery is a source 

of mature vintages of Apremont, dating back 

to the 1980s and 1990s, or even the seventies. 

A highly specialised winegrower, he sells his 

wines to the hospitality industry, including top 

Michelin-starred restaurants, and to a select 

audience of private clients. Boasting no fewer 

than a dozen labels of Apremont, all fermented 

separately, Masson experiments with Jacquère 

in every conceivable way through small-batch, 

single-vineyard fermentations. What immediately 

takes professionals by surprise is that 

usually Altesse lends itself more to cellaring 

than Jacquère. 

Another estate puts the same energy into 

Altesse this time – Domaine Dupasquier, which 

meticulously produces wines for laying down 

and stores mature vintages. Located at the foot 

of Marestel hill, the estate has been home to 

five generations of the Dupasquier family who 

completely forego the use of synthetic products. 

David and Véronique Dupasquier are advocates 

of lengthy ageing in large-format barrels or 

‘foudres’. Aside from these two wineries, which 

are an exception to the rule in Savoy, most winegrowers 

mainly produce wines that drink well 

within the first 5 to 6 years for Altesse and 2 to 

3 years for Jacquère. 

LÉGENDES 

A LAND OF INSPIRATION 

Just as in other French wine regions, organic 

and natural wines have become popular in 

Savoy too, with young winegrowers being 

the most common practitioners. “Thomas 

Veyron, who still works with his father, is one 

of a group of young winegrowers keen to push 

the envelope”, comments Berkules. Veyron 


87

DAVID AND VÉRONIQUE DUPASQUIER 

MATURE ALTESSE WINES 

CAREFULLY SO THAT 

THEY CAN BE LAID DOWN 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

FATHER AND SON, 

GUILLAUME AND MICHEL QUENARD 


SAVOY 

GRAPES 

farms 13 hectares with his parents in the Apremont 

appellation area, the cradle of Jacquère. 

Another part of the vineyard is situated near 

the Les Bauges mountain range in the Combe 

de Savoie. Domaine Adrien Veyron grows 

Altesse and Jacquère for the whites, and Gamay, 

Pinot noir and Mondeuse for the reds. “Out of 

this range, Mondeuse, Altesse and Jacquère 

are three historic grape varieties. We make 

Jacquère as a single varietal because production 

specifications allows us to do so for the 

Apremont appellation, and it means we can 

drill down into clay-limestone vineyard sites. 

The quality and freshness of Apremont have 

improved – it is no longer a ski resort staple for 

holidaymakers. We sell it to restaurants along 

the shores of the lakes and direct-to-consumer 

sales are constantly on the increase”, explains 

Thomas Veyron. 

Changing consumer patterns have prompted 

Domaine Adrien Veyron to modernise its 

cellar door facilities to promote tourism. “We 

currently sell across France, which was unimaginable 

just a decade ago. Our success stems 

not only from the variety of Savoy grapes, but 

also from our range of 14 different wines”, says 

Veyron with obvious pride. 

Veyron makes Altesse as entry-level wine but he 

also ferments it in oval tanks, a format inspired 

by ancient Roman ‘dolias’. “The Plénitude label 

was produced as an experiment – it is a real 

trailblazer. This style of maturation gives the 

wine breadth. The wine is marketed under the 

Roussette de Savoie appellation. The real advantage 

of this type of maturation is micro-oxygenation, 

and we aim to develop this unique style 

of wine. In the future, we will also be developing 

oak maturation because up until now we did not 

mature our wines”, he explains. 

André and Michel Quenard’s estate is a 27-hectare, 

family-run property established in the 

1970s, but where the tradition of vine growing 

has been passed down through the generations 

since the 17 th century. “My great-grand- 

DOMAINE DUPASQUIER IS LOCATED IN JONGIEUX, A HOLIDAY VILLAGE 

IN SAVOY MONT BLANC, HOME TO JONGIEUX AND MARESTEL WINES 

THOMAS VEYRON HAS PRODUCED AN EXPERIMENTAL 

WINE FROM ALTESSE MATURED IN EGG-SHAPED 

TANKS WHICH HE HAS CALLED PLÉNITUDE 


89

SAVOY 

GRAPES 

AN ESTATE ON TOMÉRY HILL 

GUILLAUME QUENARD ESTABLISHED HIS BOUTIQUE WINERY IN 2020 WITH 2.5 HA OF 

VINES PLANTED ON TOMÉRY HILL 

father grew various crops until my grandfather 

specialised in vine growing in the 1950s. At the 

time, it was a real gamble because a litre of milk 

was the same price as a litre of wine, but he was 

passionate about winegrowing”, recounts Guillaume 

Quenard, who established his boutique 

estate in 2020 with 2.5 hectares of vines planted 

on Toméry hill. “People thought my grandfather 

was mad to plant vines on such steep inclines 

in the most southerly part of Chignin. But 

grandfather André dug his heels in and planted 

Altesse”, he adds. The Quenards, both father 

and son, own hillside vineyards on Toméry 

hill, in the foothills of the Les Bauges mountain 

range on very stony scree soils. “My grandfather 

replanted vines on these hills, which then 

became my father Michel’s main focus. He is the 

only one who believed in the Bergeron grape 

variety (Roussanne) on a hillside set aside for 

Jacquère. Despite this, Jacquère wines are also 

produced as Chignin-Vieilles Vignes Coteaux 

de Tomery, alongside Chignin-Bergeron”, he 

adds. Nowadays, the father and son duo grow 

Bergeron and Jacquère in equal shares. “Both 

Bergeron and Jacquère are grape varieties that 

are well-suited to the region and we produce 

around fifteen different labels. We farm entirely 

by hand but have all the mod-cons in our 

winery, with temperature-controlled tanks and 

natural fermentations – none of which undermines 

the character of our wines. And we don’t 

use any chemicals in our vineyards”, stresses 

Quenard. 

DEMAND OUTSTRIPS SUPPLY 

A lot of effort is put into maturation. Here, 

Jacquère is fermented in oval tanks, as orange 

wine or in amphorae. “Jacquère now is so 

successful that we don’t have enough. We would 

like to have more because it is a very popular 

white wine, particularly in North American 

markets, Great Britain and Northern Europe. 


VINEYARDS FOR GROWING 

ROUSSETTE 

And of the 7 hectares planted to Jacquère, one is hived off for Crémant”. 

Altesse covers a diminutive 0.5 hectares on the property and Guillaume 

Quenard would like to expand its footprint due to demand. The Roussette 

de Savoie appellation is a richer and riper white wine than Jacquère, though 

it does have a slightly higher alcohol level. 

The winery devotes a number of labels to both grape varieties. Les Abîmes is a 

Jacquère-based wine produced to the tune of 10,000 bottles, rising to 50,000 

for the Les Cristallins and Chignin Vieilles Vignes, also made from Jacquère. 

Roussette de Savoie Les Craies, conversely, is made from Altesse. Guillaume 

Quenard also uses Jacquère to make orange wine in amphorae where the 

maturation process produces wines driven by fruit and minerality – only 

1,000 bottles are made, all of them sold directly to private clients. 

Guillaume Quenard and his father market their wines in the hospitality 

industry and through wine merchants, with a balance of 15% shipped to 

export markets. They feel that direct-to-consumer sales and tourism have 

bolstered recognition of Savoy wines. As for their wines, they can be found 

in locations such as the Les Trésoms hotel in Annecy, run by Véronique and 

Pascal Droux, and the gourmet restaurant Atmosphères in Le Bourget du Lac. 

This renowned Alpine venue in the Les Bauges mountains has a wine list that 

celebrates many of the wines Savoy has to offer. 


91

TUSCANY AND ITS 

‘NATURAL’ APTITUDE 

FOR ORGANIC VITICULTURE 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Italy, along with Spain and France, dominates the ranking of organic 

winegrowing countries. Yet not all Italian regions can boast a ‘natural’ aptitude 

for organic winegrowing that requires particular soil and weather conditions. 

THE VINEYARDS AT COLLEMASSARI ARE IN THE DOC MONTECUCCO, FAMOUS FOR ITS PARTICULARLY FELICITOUS MICRO-CLIMATE 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

THE MAIN GRAPE VARIETY IN DOC MONTECUCCO IS OF COURSE SANGIOVESE 

Tuscany is one of the regions with the highest number of organic vineyards with 

around 15% of its area under vine managed organically, and a continually increasing 

organic footprint. At provincial level, Pisa and Siena – with Chianti Classico and 

Brunello as high-profile examples of sustainability – show the greatest growth, with 

Siena boasting the highest organic acreage. The province of Grosseto is also growing 

strongly, spearheaded by Montecucco DOCG, which has organic vines over 85% of its 

acreage. There are also numerous bio-districts which produce only one designation 

such as Val d’Arno di Sopra DOC. The area has applied to become the first in Italy 

to be entirely organic, meaning that only organic wines could use the designation. 

This example lends credence to the ‘Bio-Revolution’ in Tuscany, a moniker coined by 

local wine producers. 

Being attentive to sustainability, however, does not only imply subscribing to the 

requirements of organic certification in the vineyard and winery. It also requires 

a change in mindset to make choices which prioritise respect for the environment 

and a focus on health along the entire production chain. In regions such as Tuscany, 

such decisions are extremely important as a focus on sustainability also adds value 

to the region itself. 

Among the most earth-friendly organic wineries, we have chosen a few that best 

represent organic viticulture in Tuscany. 

COLLEMASSARI 

A BASTION OF ECO-SUSTAINABILITY IN MONTECUCCO 

The company is based in Colle Massari castle in Cinigiano, in the province of Grosseto. 

It ventured down the organic route in 1997 and is certified by the Institute for 


93

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

CLAUDIO TIPA, THE OWNER OF COLLEMASSARI, WITH HIS WIFE AND HIS SISTER 

AGOSTINO LENCI, THE FOUNDER AND OWNER OF FATTORIA DI MAGLIANO 

Ethical and Environmental Certification ICEA. Its 

commitment stems from the belief that this type of 

farming is more respectful for the environment and 

healthier for farmers, and also promotes production 

of more authentic wines with a greater regional and 

varietal identity. 

You might think that very wet years are difficult to 

manage with this type of approach to farming, but 

experience gained over the years has allowed the 

winery to realise that the damage caused by mould 

and fungal attacks is similar or even less than that 

occurring in conventionally managed vineyards. 

It is true that organic farming entails higher costs, 

as vineyard management operations are more 

numerous and therefore require more time and 

labour. The advantages, however, are wines with 

greater identity and working in a healthier environment. 

In turn, the consequential respect for nature 

and biodiversity instils a measure of resilience 

against biotic and abiotic stresses in the vineyard, 

due to greater integration within the ecosystem. 

From a commercial perspective, Collemassari feels 

“it is clear that markets are becoming increasingly 

sensitive to products that have a sustainable agronomic 

approach, so organic certification stated on 

the label certainly promotes market appeal”. As 

regards the food industry, consumers are showing 

that they are increasingly paying attention to what 

they buy, and without doubt appreciate sustainably 

made and organic products. 

FATTORIA DI MAGLIANO ENSCONCED 

AMIDST THE UNSPOILT NATURAL SUR- 

ROUNDINGS IN TUSCAN MAREMMA 

At Fattoria di Magliano organic viticulture is viewed 

as a necessary step for present-day producers to 

fully understand their role in a socio-economic 

and cultural context. The company has been run 

organically since 2011 and its entire output has been 

certified by Valoritalia since the 2016 harvest. 

The number of vineyards has increased through out 

the country, and modernisation of technology has 

enabled even the smallest and most independent 

winegrowers to achieve ever higher quality. 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

Wineries now need to go even further and move 

towards sustainability, allowing Italian wine to be 

a symbol of quality and sustainability. The high level 

of international competition means that Italian 

wines must stand out from the crowd and being a 

leader in good wine starts with vineyard management. 

In contemporary terms, this means management 

which focuses on respect for the environment 

and innovation, without forgetting tradition. 

Wine tourism has brought the end user closer to 

the vineyard and winery and both customers and 

wine tourists have developed a greater interest and 

awareness of sustainability. Fattoria di Magliano 

believes it behoves of the wineries to implement 

good practice and help educate others. As more 

and more wineries venture into organic production, 

being an organic producer will soon become 

the norm, but quality must also remain the top 

priority. Wineries will need to be both excellent and 

sustainable, and able to work with the diversity and 

needs of each region. 

Fattoria di Magliano is fortunate to be located 

250 m above sea level on the lowest hills that 

descend from Scansano towards the Tyrrhenian 

Sea, Argentario and the island of Giglio. This particular 

location with the constant coastal breezes 

that sweep across the vineyards, the scarce autumn 

rainfall and the climatic influences of the nearby 

Mediterranean Sea create conditions which are 

naturally predisposed to organic farming, with 

beneficial insects fighting parasites. By working 

with green fertilisers, using solely organic manure 

and minimal levels of copper and sulphur, limited 

but high quality yields per hectare are secured, 

demonstrating the increasing movement towards 

quality over quantity. 

Organic farming today must be perceived as a 

production method that can and must combine 

technical knowledge and sustainability. The two 

concepts go hand in hand and are essential if 

you want to achieve excellence like Fattoria di 

Magliano. After 10 years of organic wine growing, 

the company has found that being certified organic 

fosters greater visibility in international markets, 

allowing it to attract the attention of those in search 

of quality and authenticity. 

FATTORIA DI MAGLIANO WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1997 AND 

BOASTS 97 HECTARES IN THE HEART OF MAREMMA 

SINCE 2011, ALL THE VINEYARDS HAVE BEEN FARMED AND CERTIFIED ORGANIC 


95

EDDA BILLI, THE OWNER OF 

PODERE IL FITTO WITH HER SON 

ALESSIO (AN AGRONOMIST) 

AND HER DAUGHTER RACHELE 

(MARKETING AND TRADE 

RELATIONS) 

PODERE IL FITTO AND PRESERVING BIODIVERSITY 

IN THE CORTONA AREA 

Il Fitto, in Cortona, has for many years now made a pledge to farm its vineyards and the 

entire property sustainably. In addition to vines, it is also home to olive crops and vegetables, 

wheat, meadows and oilseeds. The company has been converting to organic for two 

years through the ‘Suolo e Salute’ inspection body. The company also intends to certify with 

Equalitas to meet demands for environmental sustainability in terms of vineyard protocol, 

soil, fertility, plant, protection, harvest and biodiversity management. 

As it works towards its goal of producing a sustainable, healthier and higher quality end 

product, the company focuses on good winery practices, a reduction in its carbon footprint, 

good socio-economic practices and a decrease in water usage. 

In this environment, there are no particular challenges in heading towards organic management 

of the company, especially when smart choices have been made over the years to 

ensure production. Today, Il Fitto is in some respects self-sufficient – one example is the 

agreement it reached with some local companies to exchange hay for sheep manure. This is 

an important aspect of soil management as the constant loss of organic matter can be offset 

and any consequences that may arise avoided. 

Through careful management of its farming activities, Il Fitto successfully produces high 

quality products without any major issues. The greatest difficulty currently encountered 

is an increase in management costs, which is also reflected in the end product. However, 

in the specific case of Podere il Fitto, consumers do not see this as a problem but, on the 

contrary, as offering added value. This translates into significant benefits in national and 

international markets in terms of appreciation, visibility and remuneration, particularly in 

sectors which have environmental awareness. 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

LA SALA - AZIENDA AGRICOLA 

IL TORRIANO – THE “GREEN” FACE OF 

CHIANTI CLASSICO 

LA SALA OWNS 32 HECTARES OF VINES IN CHIANTI CLASSICO 

At La Sala Winery, located in San Casciano Val di 

Pesa, the feeling is that organic viticulture is an 

important starting point and a now-necessary catalyst 

for ensuring continuity for Italian companies, 

which also factors in quality. The company considers 

it an act of awareness towards future generations 

who will live and work on the same land. 

La Sala is certified organic and has introduced 

measures that focus on sustainability including 

weather stations aimed at reducing plant protection 

products – including copper – extensive photovoltaic 

panels on the company’s roofs, the purchase of 

electric cars with two charging points, the removal 

of plastic ties from the vineyard and the reuse of 

pruning waste and grape pomace. In addition, the 

company uses suppliers who share the same vision, 

and this applies to the cork factory’s plastic-free 

certification for natural corks, PEFC box cardboard 

from sustainably managed forests, as well as the 

glass factory’s TUV environmental certification. 

According to La Sala, Tuscany lends itself well to 

this type of viticulture due to the reduced presence 

of pathogens and harmful insects, making protection 

easier and more effective than in other areas of 

Italy. The greatest challenge is adapting production 

cycles and supporting staff throughout this change. 

From a professional point of view, though, it is in 

fact very stimulating, requiring greater attention 

to detail, more timely interventions, and the implementation 

of certain precautions that might have 

previously been overlooked. 

In the first year of transition, the company admits 

that despite the favourable weather they lost a 

considerable chunk of the crop, but with experience 

everything became manageable and sustainable in 

terms of productivity and financial considerations. 

The winery reports that since going organic it has 

noticed greater expression of the wines’ primary 

aromas than normally expected. In addition, it is 

beginning to meet buyers and importers who are 

attentive not only to the product itself but also 

to the production methods. This reinforces the 


97

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

rationale behind the decision and also opens up 

new markets. 

La Sala is an advocate of organic farming, so much 

so that it advises those who farm vineyards conventionally 

to give it a go, perhaps starting with a small 

plot. Ultimately, this could lead to the creation of 

bio-districts among interested producers. 

SALCHETO - MONTEPULCIANO, 

360° SUSTAINABILITY 

THE ‘TINAIA’ AT CANTINA SALCHETO 

MICHELE MANELLI, THE OWNER OF SALCHETO 

For Montepulciano-based Salcheto, which is a clear 

example of ethically-driven sustainability, it is 

simply unthinkable to do business without setting 

clear objectives to mitigate any negative impact on 

the environment and society in general. Salcheto 

has blazed the trail, securing the world’s first certified 

carbon footprint for wine as early as 2009 and 

many subsequent initiatives in social arenas, such 

as labour management throughout the supply 

chain. Organic farming is undoubtedly one of the 

tools that the company uses to achieve its goals, 

through its ability to drastically reduce the use of 

chemicals and fertilisers that are harmful to the 

rural eco-system. However, organic farming must 

also be included in a broader framework and carefully 

balanced with the company’s environmental 

objectives such as the use of energy. 

Salcheto boasts EU, US and Canadian organic 

certification and has also secured Equalitas certification, 

the standard created by the Italian wine 

industry which uses a third-party certified model 

for the integrated management of sustainability in 

the wine business. Further certifications are PEFC/ 

FSC for the use of wood materials exclusively from 

sustainable sources and ISO 14067 certification 

regarding the carbon footprint of specific products. 

According to Salcheto, as the weather creates 

increasingly adverse conditions for growing vines, 

organic farming poses complex management 

challenges. These sometimes generate significant 

impacts on other areas, such as energy and water 

consumption, soil compaction and economic pressures. 

Fortunately, as yet, no challenge has become 

insurmountable, and nothing can stop ethical 


FOR ITS MANAGER, 

SALCHETO IS ALL ABOUT 

SANGIOVESE, QUALITY 

AND SUSTAINABILITY 

FOUNDED IN 1984 AS 

A CLASSIC FARM WITH 

DIFFERENT CROPS, SALCHETO 

IS NOW A WINE-FOCUSED 

PROPERTY WITH 58 HECTARES 

OF ORGANICALLY-FARMED 

VINEYARDS 


99

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

companies such as this one from confidently continuing down the organic and 

sustainable route. 

Confirming the growing sensitivity of buyers and consumers, the winery comments 

that marketing appeal is undoubtedly very strong. However, emotional and sensory 

aspects are at the root of the overall taste experience. In essence, Salcheto feels that 

organic/sustainable wine does not have its own particular taste but when high 

quality wine is organic and sustainable it is perceived as better and people are willing 

to pay more for it. 

LA PALAZZETTA FANTI CHOOSES ORGANIC TO FURTHER RAISE 

THE PERCEPTION OF BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 

Palazzetta Fanti, located in Montalcino, believes strongly in the principles of producing 

organic and vegan wines. All work in the vineyards shows respect for the environment 

and preserves the surrounding ecosystem – pruning and vegetable waste 

are used as compost for the following year, the vines are sprayed with resistance 

inducers such as seaweed and essential orange oils that prevent mildew, Cuban 

zeolite which absorbs moisture from leaves and bunches is used, and use of copper 

and sulphur is moderate. These principles also apply to the olive groves. In the cellar, 

the grapes are fermented using only wild ferments. The company’s motto is “we 

respect and preserve what nature has given us”, adding very low amounts of SO2 

and striving to preserve the integrity of the wines throughout the winemaking and 

ageing process with inert gases such as nitrogen instead of using higher doses of 

sulphur dioxide. 

All the packaging is environmentally-friendly: the labels are made from cotton, the 

bottles use light glass, the boxes are made from recycled paper printed with natural 

THE FANTI FAMILY, WHO ARE FULLY COMMITTED TO RUNNING 

THE LA PALAZZETTA COMPANY IN MONTALCINO 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

ink, and wherever possible, the cork is made from 

a natural sugar cane polymer. The intention at La 

Palazzetta is to replace even the poly-laminate 

capsule with an eco-friendly one, but for now they 

are struggling to source ‘green capsules’. Crucially, 

the company’s energy usage comes from renewable 

sources. La Palazzetta is certified organic and vegan 

by the Suolo e Salute organisation, while the electricity 

distributor has issued a green company certification. 

Organic farming involves minimal use of chemicals 

and eliminates synthetic chemicals altogether, 

with a focus on good farming practices that aim to 

restore balance in the plants to make them more 

resistant and resilient. It is a system of farming that 

emphasises the natural status of the crop and seeks 

to promote the benefits of better soil management, 

green manures and controlled grassing. Its strong 

points are the use of hardy plants adapted to the 

climate and rotations with other crops that naturally 

increase the organic substance of the soil – in 

this way, the soils are not depleted by constantly 

supporting the same crops. 

Challenges include the higher costs of the products, 

as well as difficulties related to the weather. Therefore 

more attention is required, resulting in twice as 

much work compared to using systemic insecticides. 

The advantages are first and foremost for growers, 

who do not use chemicals and thus prioritise their 

own health. Then comes respect for the surrounding 

ecosystem, and the pride in producing a wine that 

is as natural as possible. The financial benefits of 

marketing wines with an organic endorsement also 

factor into the equation. 

Added value comes from the perception of consumers, 

who buy and enjoy wines that show respect for 

their health and, secondly, protect the environment, 

preserving it for future generations. From a sales 

perspective, organic wines have carved out significant 

market shares and a higher perception of value. 

Tuscany is the most highly renowned Italian region 

among wine tourists and wine enthusiasts. The 

earth-friendly techniques rolled out by the companies 

mentioned above, alongside the many others 

who share the same ethos, are set to preserve its 

reputation. 

LA PALAZZETTA FANTI BOASTS 20 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS AND 2,500 OLIVE TREES 

SOUTH-EAST OF MONTALCINO, AT 365 M ABOVE SEA LEVEL, 

WHICH HAVE BEEN FARMED ORGANICALLY SINCE 2018 

BRUNELLO WINES ARE STORED MAINLY IN LARGE FRENCH OAK CASKS 


101

VERY FINE VINOS 

LOOKING AT DISTRIBUTION 

IN A DIFFERENT LIGHT 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY 

OF THE ESTATES, 

© ANA FAJARDO 

Founded by Christopher Vanpoulle in 2010 to promote Iberian wines worldwide, in just a few 

years Very Fine Vinos has successfully carved out a prime position for itself in the Spanish 

wine arena. It has even become the official wine distributor of MasterChef, an institution in 

the country. Despite its success, the company has always favoured quality over quantity and 

demonstrates a new way of viewing distribution, one that is based on trust, interaction with 

people and good wine. After the untimely passing of its founder, the company is determined 

more than ever to continue on its journey. 

CHRISTOPHER VANPOULLE, FOUNDER OF VERY FINE VINOS 


SPAIN 

WINEGROWER PORTRAIT 

Spain is brimming with quality bodegas which 

struggle to make a name for themselves in the 

international marketplace due to lack of confidence, 

knowledge or resources. This realisation 

led to the inception of Very Fine Vinos, though 

there was also a certain amount of serendipity it 

has to be said. After Christopher Vanpoulle, who 

had long worked for a number of estates, was 

unexpectedly let go, he was forced to reinvent 

himself. So he decided to leverage his wine industry 

knowledge and skills and help bodegas 

broaden their horizons. Very Fine Vinos had just 

been born. 

UNLIKE AGENTS WHO CAN AMASS AS MANY AS 30 CLIENTS, VERY FINE VINOS HAS 

CHOSEN TO WORK WITH A SMALL NUMBER OF FAMILY-RUN BODEGAS 

QUALITY PARTNERS 

The company now works with eight wineries. 

True to its original premise, it has deliberately 

chosen to work with a limited number of firms 

in order to focus on friendly relationships and an 

exclusive commitment. This was its way of doing 

justice to its partner estates who farm their own 

vineyards whilst showing unwavering respect 

for the land. Consequently, Very Fine Vinos does 

not offer its services willy-nilly – its partner winegrowers 

stand out for the quality of their work 

and limited volumes. In fact, many of their wines 

have been showered with renowned accolades. 

The wineries are located in equal measures in 

prestigious Spanish appellations such as Rioja, 

Priorat and Ribera del Duero, and smaller, more 

under-the-radar regions such as DO Bullas, Txacoli 

and Utiel-Requena. This variety underscores 

the commitment made by Very Fine Vinos to 

Spanish wines and the family-run wineries that 

make them. They are its core priority. The focus 

is on putting a face to the wines and telling the 

story behind the bottle, explains customer sales 

manager Ana Belén Sánchez. 

ANA BELÉN SÁNCHEZ, CUSTOMER SALES MANAGER 

A HIGHLY ADAPTABLE MODEL 

The company is small, its founder used to explain, 

but the services provided to its partner bodegas 


103

LOCATED IN MADRID, THE PRESENT- 

DAY COMPANY HAS A TEAM OF 

EXPERTS WITH IN-DEPTH KNOWLEDGE 

OF INTERNATIONAL MARKETS 

AT BARCELONA WINE WEEK, 

AT THE BEGINNING OF APRIL 

THIS YEAR 

and end customers (importers) are manifold. Very Fine Vinos distributes its wines in 

around thirty countries, in Europe, Asia and the United States. It has its finger on the 

pulse of new trends and the specific demands of each market, and can adapt quickly. 

Diversification, both in terms of shipping destination and customer base, is one of its 

traits. It works with importers who sell to hotels but also with supermarkets and online 

wine clubs. This versatility enabled it to weather the pandemic relatively effortlessly. 

Christopher Vanpoulle’s untimely passing last March obviously had a profound effect 

on everyone at Very Fine Vinos. All will remember a man who showed a deep sense of 

humanity, who was extremely professional and passionate. As do we! 

A real gentleman who left us far too early, his achievements continue through Very Fine 

Vinos. 

A TRIBUTE FROM ONE OF THE PARTNER WINERIES 

Christopher, along with his team, took Pago de Larrainzar on a journey around the world, 

opening doors and always believing in our wines. We are continuing his work with the 

same enthusiasm, though we will miss him every day. Irene Canalejo. Sales Manager. Bodegas 

Pago de Larrainzar (DO Navarra). 


GREECE 

IN A GLASS 

BY MARIA NETSIKA 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES, 

AUTHOR ARCHIVE 

Greece has, arguably, one of the longest wine histories in the world. Wine has 

been an integral part of Greek culture since Antiquity. In the last four decades, a 

wind of change has been blowing through the Greek wine world. Today, Greece 

produces wine for wine connoisseurs, traditional wine enthusiasts, New World 

aficionados… pretty much for everyone. It is worthwhile getting to know the 

wines, and enjoying them this summer. 

ALPHA ESTATE’S VINEYARDS AND IMPRESSIVE WINERY IN AMYNDEON 

LÉGENDES 


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GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

KIR-YIANNI VINEYARD IN AMYNDEON, ONE OF THE COLDEST WINE REGIONS IN GREECE 

KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU’S SEA OF VINEYARDS AND STATE-OF-THE-ART WINERY 

IN EPANOMI, THESSALONIKI 

The 1970s and ‘80s were a time of tremendous experimentation 

for Greek wine. It was an era of 

idealism and vision coupled with a lucky confluence 

of events. A young generation of oenologists, together 

with a handful of visionary older winemakers, 

would eventually change the face of Greek 

wines. The new generation, most of whom had studied 

in Bordeaux, combined knowledge of modern 

winemaking technology, familiarity with international 

varietals and a new-found, passionate interest 

in one of the most fascinating aspects of their 

native land: the more than 300 vitis vinifera grape 

varieties that are indigenous to Greece. 

In this way, besides the regions that have been producing 

wine since the era of Aristotle and Alexander 

the Great, many new and very dynamic regions have 

appeared on the viticultural map of Greece. So, whereas 

a few decades ago, the Greek wine market was 

dominated by a handful of large-scale producers, 

producing wines from only a clutch of grape varieties, 

today it is characterized by its impressive pluralism. 

Greece counts 1,617 winemakers, producing 

over 9,000 labels. Single-varietal Greek and international 

wines as well as blends are now all part of the 

Greek wine world. 

In terms of vine growing, Greece is a relatively 

small country, with about 61,500 hectares under 

vine. Average wine production is 2.5 million hectolitres, 

dominated by white wines, since reds represent 

approximately 1/3 of overall production. 

Greek grape varieties are, as expected, the majority 

of the material for producing the wines, or 

90% of the total. 

There are 33 PDOs and 120 PGIs as well as two 

styles in the Traditional Appellation category 

(Retsina and Verdea). 

For wine aficionados for whom Greece might 

still be uncharted territory, it makes most sense 

to start a Greek wine itinerary from Macedonia, 

Peloponnese and Thrace. 

MACEDONIA 

We begin our foray into the vineyards of Greece 

with the regions dedicated to Xinomavro. This 

intriguing grape variety delivers wines with 

complex and intellectually challenging charac- 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

ters. Bright red wines show strong tannins, good 

structure and pure elegance. Their aromatic persona 

is mirrored in flavours of tomatoes, olive 

leaves, prunes and spices. Their ageing potential 

is long and nothing short of remarkable, while 

they make the ideal accompaniment to foods 

with rich flavours. 

Naoussa, long a wine-producing region in central 

Macedonia and best known for its high-quality 

red wines, is one of the top two appellations 

(PDO) using Xinomavro. This is the area where 

the variety excels and produces some of its best 

wines offering amazing depth, breath-taking 

complexity and possibly the longest ageing potential 

of any other Greek red. The appellation 

area overlooks the plain of Central Macedonia, 

located on the slopes of Mount Vermio, at altitudes 

ranging from 150 – 450m, sheltered from 

northern winds. The climate in the area can be 

described as a cross between Mediterranean and 

Continental and vintage variations exist. 

Amyndeon is the second appellation in northern 

Greece totally dedicated to Xinomavro. 

Situated on a mountain plateau, at altitudes 

ranging between 570 – 770m above sea level and 

surrounded by four lakes – a factor contributing 

to the region’s unique terroir – this is among the 

coldest viticultural zones in Greece. The poor, 

sandy/sand and clay soil provides for efficient 

drainage of rainwater and for production of 

wines with aromatic intensity, finesse and good 

structure. Amyndeon and Xinomavro as a pair 

give us delightful red wines and the PDO red 

wines of Amyndeon, full of ripe fruit and packed 

with fine tannins, are among the rising stars of 

the Greek wine industry. Also, this combination 

is ideal for the production of rosé and sparkling 

wines. 

Few wine enthusiasts worldwide associate Greece 

with crisp, refreshing dry white wines, but this 

is a misconception easily debunked if you’ve ever 

had a taste of the whites produced in Epanomi/ 

Thessaloniki, Drama or Mount Pangeon in Macedonia. 

These regions are known for their “modern” 

wines, with a clean nose, balanced mouth 

and, in general, all the characteristics that denote 

a sense of quality. Producers have embraced the 

art of blending Greek varietals such as Assyrtiko 

KIR-YIANNI ESTATE IN YIANNAKOHORI, NAOUSSA PLANTED WITH XINOMAVRO 

KTIMA PAVLIDIS VINEYARDS AT DRAMA 


107

YIANNIS, STELLIOS (LEFT) 

AND MICHALIS BOUTARIS AT 

KTIMA KIR-YIANNI, 

YIANNAKOHORI NAOUSSA 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

and Malagousia, mainly with Sauvignon blanc 

and Chardonnay. The red wines also tend to 

be blends, mainly of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon 

while Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko 

are dominating new plantings. 

WINEMAKER ANGELOS IATRIDIS (LEFT) AND HIS PARTNER VINE GROWER 

MAKIS MAVRIDIS (RIGHT), ALPHA ESTATE, AMYNDEON 

KTIMA KYR-YIANNI 

Ktima Kir-Yianni was founded in 1997 by Yiannis 

Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek 

wine industry. The estate is located in Yiannakohori, 

at the highest part of the wine region of Naoussa. 

Its creation and planting with Xinomavro, at 

the end of the 60’s, was the catalyst for replanting 

the whole area when it had reached its lowest 

point and, essentially, brought about the rebirth of 

Naoussa wines. Stellios Boutaris, a fourth-generation 

winemaker, now heads up the business. He 

explains that their efforts are focused primarily on 

producing terroir wines emphasizing the quality 

of the grape: “The model vineyard (60 hectares) is 

planted with Xinomavro, Syrah, Merlot and some 

experimental varieties. Depending on the microclimate, 

the aspect, the soil type, the subject, etc., it 

has been divided into 42 separate vineyard blocks, 

each with special establishment and viticultural 

care.” Yiannis Boutaris also created a vineyard and 

a winery in the Amyndeon zone on the shores of 

lake Vegoritis, in order to stimulate an underdeveloped 

area, which was put on the map thanks to his 

systematic efforts. 

ALPHA ESTATE 

If the creator is defined by his work, then Angelos 

Iatridis has every reason to be proud. He 

picked Amyndeon to create and leave his mark on 

the wine world. And what a mark it was! Alpha 

Estate is an exemplary winery, setting standards. 

The winemaking facilities are beautiful and 

cutting-edge in terms of production and functionality. 

No sooner had the wines appeared in 

the market than they became taste trendsetters. 

Today, the estate’s privately-owned vineyard 

covers a total area of 180 ha. The sandy-clay texture 

of the soil, ensuring ideal drainage of rainwater, 


109

GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

the favourable climatic conditions during maturation and harvest periods, and 

finally appropriate vineyard management techniques, help the fruit fully ripen to 

produce wines of exquisite quality showing rich aromas. Today, a popular blend 

of Syrah/Merlot with un-grafted Xinomavro is the estate’s red flagship, while a 

classic barrel-fermented Sauvignon blanc and several other wines complete the 

estate’s varietal portfolio. 

KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU 

Vangelis Gerovassiliou has been a key player on the Greek wine scene since the 

‘80s and his jewel of a winery (surrounded by 71 ha of vineyards) is a perfect 

combination of state-of-the-art technology and good looks. The wines feature 

intense fruit and a rich taste. Its excellent Wine Museum, besides the tour of 

the wine world and the great collection of wine objects from the owner’s personal 

collection, also offers a fabulous programme of cultural events. Vangelis 

Gerovassiliou is also the pioneer who played a crucial role in the long-forgotten 

white varietal Malagousia’s “rescue”. 

VANGELIS GEROVASSILIOU WITH HIS SON, WINEMAKER ARGIRIOS GEROVASSILIOU 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

KTIMA BIBLIA CHORA 

BIBLIA CHORA, MOUNT PANGEON, IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WINERIES 

IN NORTHERN GREECE AND A MUST-SEE WHEN TOURING WINE COUNTRY 

This is one of the most beautiful wineries in the 

Northern Greece landscape and a must-see when 

touring wine country. The tour starts in the vineyards. 

We follow the guides into the impressive 

building, the winemaking area and the underground 

ageing cellars in order to eavesdrop on the 

wines breathing as they mature. Founded by two 

leading Greek winemakers – Vangelis Gerovassiliou 

and Vassilis Tsaktsarlis – it consistently produces 

high quality wines. 

DOMAINE COSTA LAZARIDI 

Founded in 1992, this is a leading Greek winery and 

one of the country’s most significant wine-related 

developments, famous for its emblematic wine 

series. The estate, apart from the vineyards (1,200 

ha over 4 sites and elevations from 200 to 950m), 

includes a 15,000 square meter building with a winery, 

a distillery, underground ageing cellars and 

visitor reception areas. 

PAVLIDIS ESTATE’S VINEYARD AND WINERY IN DRAMA 

KTIMA PAVLIDIS 

Ktima Pavlidis was founded by Christoforos Pavlidis 

in 1998 in a narrow valley on the lower slopes 

of Mount Falakro, Drama. The estate’s vineyards 

(60 ha) are situated in two different sites, distinguished 

since ancient times for their unique terroir, 

Kokkinogia and Perichora. In order to better 

express the qualities of both variety and site, yields 

are controlled meticulously and all vineyard management 

is done by hand. The winery is situated on 

the North side of the Kokkinogia vineyard. With 

clean, minimalist surfaces and totally clad in limestone, 

it is a direct nod to New World winery styles. 

PELOPONNESE 

Peloponnese is a very significant wine region located 

in the southernmost tip of mainland Greece. 

Mainly dedicated to producing white wines, 

it is nevertheless home to the largest red wine 


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GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

THE AGIORGITIKO HARVEST AT SKOURAS ESTATE, NEMEA 

MANTINIA PLATEAU AND ITS MOSCHOFILERO VINEYARDS 

appellation in Greece: Nemea, just south of the 

Isthmus of Corinth. The whole appellation is 

planted with the red grape variety Agiorgitiko. 

Deep blue, with small round berries and thick, velvety 

skin, the charismatic Agiorgitiko is a highly 

prized grape variety. It flourishes and excels mostly 

in Nemea where the cool northern winds and 

pleasant temperatures that usually prevail help it 

ripen seamlessly. PDO Nemea is a charming, deep 

red wine full of ripe fruit, sunshine, soft sexy tannins, 

lots of flavour and good body that is suitable 

for long bottle ageing. A second style in the appellation 

area is the light, easy-drinking, juicy and 

fruity young reds. The complex facets of the captivating 

Nemea area can be traced back to its similarly 

complex terroir and topography, with terrains 

and altitudes ranging from 250 to 850m. 

The crown of white appellations in Peloponnese is 

Mantinia in the heart of the peninsula. A mountainous 

plateau at an altitude that exceeds 650m 

with poor, well-drained soils, its climate is continental, 

with mild summers whereas nights are 

cold and breezy. Consequently, grapes in Mantinia 

usually mature in the second fortnight of September, 

which is quite late for an area in southern 

Greece. The dominant variety is Moschofilero, one 

of the most aromatic varieties in Greece, which although 

pink-skinned is principally used to make 

white wine. Another distinct feature of Moschofilero 

is its intense, easily recognizable aroma. With 

Muscat-like notes, its cleanest expression delivers 

green apples, limes and roses, while in the most 

complex wines, aromas of mint and lemon can be 

showcased. 

Achaia, a part of the northern coast of Peloponnese, 

is another significant winemaking centre with several 

appellations. Its vineyard is huge by Greek 

standards – it comprises 12% of the country’s total 

vineyard area. The region was “put on the map” 

170 years ago, thanks to production of the famous 

sweet red fortified wine, Mavrodaphne. Nevertheless, 

the main and basic variety, exclusive to PDO 

Patra, is Roditis. Boasting 8 clones, some of them 

very productive, it is grown in 75% of vineyards. 

The most impressive vineyards in Achaia, and for 

many people the most beautiful in Greece, can be 

found on the slopes of Egialia. At an altitude of 

500-900m, they overlook the Corinthian Bay. 


GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

ORFANOS ESTATE 

The Orfanos family’s history in wine production 

begins in 1927, with Ioannis Orfanos who 

suddenly abandoned the land of Ionia in Asia 

Minor and finally settled in Patras, buying an 

estate in the region. His son transformed it 

into a small vineyard planted with several Greek 

varieties next to a fully equipped winery. After 

being passed down from generation to generation, 

the reins of the family business are 

now held by fourth-generation Emmanouil 

Orfanos, who combines viticultural expertise 

and winemaking knowledge with the tradition 

of his predecessors. 

EMMANOUIL ORFANOS, 

WINEMAKER AND AGRICULTURIST 

MICHALIS GIANNIKOS 

GIANNIKOS WINERY 

Giannikos winery is the brainchild of Michalis 

Giannikos, whose belief in the excellent quality 

potential of Peloponnesian land, led him to establish 

his vineyards (8 ha) on two sites. One is in 

Corinth, around the family winery, and the other 

in Mycenae, near the famous archaeological site. 

In both vineyards he uses organic farming practices. 

The wines, all of them single varietal, are 

made from the Greek grapes Roditis, Agiorgitiko, 

Malagousia and selected clones of international 

cultivars Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, 

Chardonnay and Viognier. 75% of production is 

exported worldwide. 

DOMAINE SKOURAS 

DOMAINE SKOURAS 

Winemaker George Skouras decided to set up his 

own winemaking facilities in his homeland, in 

1986. In the 30+ years that have passed since then, 

the winery has established itself as one of the 

most important names in Greek wine and been 

singled out as a great ambassador of Greek wine 

abroad. The state-of-the-art equipment stands 

out not only for its functionality, but also for the 

high level of aesthetics in the reception area and 

wine tasting hall. 


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GREECE 

DISCOVERY 

GAIA WINES 

Gaia Wines’ creators, winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos 

and agriculturist Leon Karatsalos, 

established their wineries in two excellent wine 

regions of Greece, Santorini and Nemea. Their labels 

hide a simple yet challenging idea, which is 

to push the boundaries of Greek varieties through 

cutting-edge technology and offer wine enthusiasts 

the best possible result. 

TSELEPOS WINERY 

GAIA WINES VINEYARDS IN KOUTSI, NEMEA 

This domain was created in 1989 by winemaker 

Yiannis Tselepos and his wife Amalia. Today, their 

estate’s wines highlight the exceptional climate 

and soil conditions in the area, and the company 

is listed among the most important producers 

and exporters of Greek wine. Their philosophy 

highlights the connection between Greek varieties 

and terroir, for the PDOs they produce (Mantinia, 

Nemea, Santorini), and the link between international 

varieties and cru for the various sites 

of their privately-owned vineyard. 

THRACE 

TSELEPOS ESTATE, MANTINIA 

In the eastern part of northern Greece, bordering on 

Turkey and Bulgaria, Thrace is one of the most geographically 

remote regions in the country. The present-day 

wine industry began towards the end of the 

20 th century. However, wine production in the area 

dates back to ancient times. During the Late Bronze 

Age, along the coastline of the city of Ismaros, inhabitants 

called Kikones used to make Maronian 

wine which was an aromatic, sweet honey-like wine 

whose colour was as red as a flame. 

Nowadays, the basic wine regions are Avdira, 

Maronia and Soufli. Many grape varieties are grown, 

both Greek and international. Winemakers are displaying 

an interest in local varieties like the deepcoloured 

Mavroudi and the pink-skinned Pamidi. 

The wines of Greece provide an exciting option for 

those willing to explore beyond the commonplace. 

I suggest you do not miss out on this opportunity! 


EVA LONGORIA: 

THE MOST AMAZING THING 

AT CANNES IS THE ROSÉ! 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT 

IN THE UNITED STATES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

The beautiful Tex-Mex actress took part in her 17 th Cannes film festival this year, 

offering us an opportunity to discuss her relationship with wine and fine ‘Made 

in France’ fare. She did so with a genuine sense of humour, making her one of 

the most likeable stars in the realms of Hollywood. 

We are in Cannes today. Do you remember when you first 

walked up these steps? 

This is the seventeenth time I have taken part. The very first time was in 2005, 

when I came to represent ‘The Naked Truth’, a film by Atom Egoyan with Colin 

Firth, Kevin Bacon and Rachel Blancard. A few days before attending my first 

Cannes Film Festival, I went to the Melrose district of Los Angeles in search of the 

perfect little dress. As I walked past the shop window, I came across a long gold 

knitwear dress! I thought it would do the trick without breaking the bank as it only 

cost me forty dollars! Cannes was also the opportunity for me to discover rosé! 

If I could, I would have had entire tanks of it imported to Los Angeles! The rosés 

I tasted there were so amazing that I was just inches away from starting up a major 

smuggling operation! (laughs) 

In 2016, you launched your first fashion collection in conjunction 

with The Limited, which included a line of t-shirts stating 

‘I get better with wine’. 

It’s true that I’m really obsessed with wine and like wine I improve with time! My 

favourite wine is Californian Cabernet-Sauvignon. Not just because I live in the 

Golden State, but because I find it really bold. I’ve recently started tasting Super 

Tuscans, but so far Cabernet-Sauvignon is still at the top! Now, if you serve me a 

Château Mouton-Rothschild, I can assure you that I start speaking French fluently. 

That’s when you really hit the big league, the really serious stuff! 

Is it true that during the pandemic and lockdown, you linked 

up with Victoria Beckham very often to talk about wine? 

It is true! We talked all the time on Zoom. We even came up with a nickname for 

our engagements. We called them ‘Wine o’clock’. We’d start with a good bottle of 


115

STARS 

& WINE 

EVA LONGORIA WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU 

wine and drink to the global health problem! I did 

a lot of Zooms that involved wine with my friends. 

It’s crazy to think that I was more ‘connected’ with 

them than I would normally be. If Covid had a 

positive effect, that was it. It brought us closer to 

our loved ones and made us appreciate more how 

precious life is! 

Didn’t you own a restaurant on 

Hollywood boulevard at one stage? 

Yes, but I sold it! At first I thought I would just 

set up a taco stand! But not just any kind of tacos! 

What I wanted was to serve authentic TexMex 

products! I love to cook and eat. I’m very careful 

about what I eat or drink. I’d rather go without 

than eat something tasteless or drink characterless 

wine. I also always question a product’s origins. 

For instance, how were the grapes harvested, in 

what way and more importantly, by whom? I know 

that in France everything is very strictly supervised, 

but there are some countries where legislation 

is not very clear. Sometimes people even 

work for very low wages. We have all seen reports 

of company directors using illegal workers. Exploiting 

people in poverty quite honestly gives wine a 

bitter taste! 

Didn’t you present a documentary on 

the subject? 

Yes, ‘The Harvest’ in 2010. In the documentary, 

I turned the spotlight on the plight of children 

working in farming in the United States and in 

the food industry. I wanted to show people where 

their food comes from and my aim was that they 

would also care about the conditions in which the 

food is produced! Nowadays, we are more careful 

about what we consume. Personally, I don’t eat 

soya, gluten or lactose. When it comes to wine, I 

make sure that it comes from organic grapes and 

is not full of pesticides. 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

PROVENCE - Pages 12 - 25 

• Château Gassier: Tel. +33 4 42 66 38 74 - 

www.chateau-gassier.fr 

• Château Coussin: Tel. +33 4 42 61 20 00 - 

www.sumeire.com 

• Château de Pourcieux: Tel. +33 4 94 59 78 90 - 

www.chateau-de-pourcieux.com 

• Château Saint-Maur: Tel. +33 4 94 95 48 48 - 

www.chateausaintmaur.com 

• Domaine de la Sanglière: 

Tel. +33 4 94 00 48 58 - 

www.domaine-sangliere.com 

• Les Monopôles: Tel. +33 6 22 98 17 19 - 

contact@lesmonopoles.com 

• Château Roubine: Tel. +33 4 94 85 94 94 - 

www.chateauroubine.com 

• Domaine des Bergeries de Haute 

Provence: Tel. +33 4 92 61 50 10 - 

www.domainedesbergeries.fr 

• Château de Crémat: Tel. +33 4 92 15 12 15 - 

www.chateaucremat.com 

CORSICA - Pages 26 - 33 

• Domaine San Gavino: Tel. +33 6 70 90 79 81 - 

t.lebegue@wanadoo.fr 

• Domaine Montemagni: 

Tel. +33 4 95 37 00 80 - 

www.domaine-montemagni.fr 

• Ile de Rosé: Tel. +33 4 95 32 91 32 - 

www.vinsdecorse.com 

• Clos Santini: Tel. + 33 4 95 37 00 92 - 

www.clossantini.fr 

• Domaine de Tanella: Tel. +33 4 95 70 46 23 - 

www.domaine-tanella.com 

ITALY - Pages 34 - 43 

• Tenuta Iuzzolini: Tel. +39 0962 373893 - 

https://www.tenutaiuzzolini.kr.it. 

• Laura Aschero: Tel. +39 348 5174690 - 

https://lauraaschero.it 

• Società Agricola Siddura: 

Tel. +39 079 65 73 027 - 

https://www.siddura.com 

• Cantine Colomba Bianca: 

Tel. +39 0923 942747 - 

https://colombabianca.com 

• Statti: Tel. +39 0968 456138 - 

https://statti.com 

• Torrevento: Tel. +39 080 8980923 - 

https://www.torrevento.it 

• Schenk Italia: Tel. +39 0471 803311 - 

www.schenkitalia.it/ 

SPAIN - Pages 44 - 53 

• Covinca: Tel. +34 976 142 653 - 

https://covinca.es/ 

• Bodegas San Valero: Tel. +34 636 735 056 - 

www.sanvalero.com 

• Bodegas Tempore: Tel. +34 608 418 481 - 

www.bodegastempore.com 

• Bodegas Pirineos: Tel. +34 669 44 23 19 - 

www.bodegapirineos.com 

SOUTH AFRICA - Pages 54 - 63 

• Muratie: Tel. +27 (0)21 865 2330/6 - 

www.muratie.co.za 

• Delheim: Tel. +27 (0)21 888 4600 - 

www.delheim.com 

• Landskroon: Tel. +27 (0)21 883 8043 - 

www.landskroonwines.com 

• Diemersdal: Tel. +27 (0)21 976 3361 - 

https://diemersdal.co.za 

• Rietvallei: Tel. + 27 (0)23 626 3596 - 

https://rietvallei.co.za 

• Merwida: Tel. +27 (0)67 361 3210 - 

https://merwida.com 

• Opstal: Tel. +27 (0)23 344 3001 - 

https://opstal.co.za 

• Paul Cluver: Tel. +27 (0)21 844-0605 - 

www.cluver.com 

• Bosman Wines: Tel. +27 (0)21 873 3170 - 

https://bosmanwines.com 

BEAUJOLAIS - Pages 64 - 73 

• Domaine du Mont Verrier: 

Tel. +33 4 74 67 42 84 - 

https://domaine-montverrier.com 

• Chateau de Pizay: Tel. +33 4 74 66 26 10 - 

www.vins-chateaupizay.com 

• Domaine du Petit Pérou: 

Tel. +33 4 74 69 13 23 - www.petitperou.com 

• Domaine Corinne Guillot: 

Tel. +33 4 74 07 04 73 - 

https://domaine-guillot-gonin.fr 

GRAVES - Pages 74 - 83 

• Château Clare: Tel. +33 5 56 62 51 38 - 

www.chateauclare.fr 

• Jean Médeville et Fils: Tel. +33 5 57 98 08 08 - 

www.medeville.com 

• Les Domaines de la Mette: 

Tel. +33 5 56 67 18 18 - 

www.domaines-de-la-mette.fr 

• Vignobles Jaubert: Tel. +33 5 56 23 64 22 - 

https://www.vignobles-jaubert.com 

SAVOY - Pages 84 - 91 

• Domaine Veyron: Tel. +33 4 79 28 20 20 - 

www.vins-veyron.com 

• André et Michel Quenard: 

Tel. +33 4 79 28 12 75 - 

www.am-quenard.fr 

• Interprofession des vins de Savoie: 

Tel. : +33 4 79 33 44 16. www.vindesavoie.fr 

TUSCANY - Pages 92 - 101 

• Collemassari: Tel. +39 0564 990496 - 

www.collemassariwines.it. 

• Fattoria di Magliano: Tel. +39 0564593040 - 

www.fattoriadimagliano.it 

• Podere Il Fitto: Tel. +39 346 7773251 - 

www.podereilfitto.com 

• La Sala - Azienda Agricola il Torriano: 

Tel. +39 055 82 40 013 - www.lasala.it 

• Salcheto: Tel. +39 0578 799031 - 

https://salcheto.it. 

• La Palazzetta Fanti: 

Tel. +39 0577 835531 - 

www.palazzettafanti.com. 

SPAIN - Pages 102 - 104 

• Very Fine Vinos: Tel: +34 91 1134122 - 

https://veryfinevinos.com 

GREECE - Pages 105 - 114 

• Kir-Yianni: Tel. +30 23320 51100 - 

www.kiryianni.gr 

• Alpha Estate: Tel. +30 23860 20111 - 

www.alpha-estate.com 

• Ktima Gerovassiliou: Tel. +30 23920 44567 - 

www.gerovassiliou.gr 

• Ktima Biblia Chora: Tel. + 30 25920 44974 - 

www. bibliachora.gr 

• Domaine Costa Lazaridi: 

Tel. + 30 25210 82231 - 

www.domaine-lazaridi.gr 

• Ktima Pavlidis: Tel. + 30 25210 58300 - 

www. Ktima-pavlidis.gr 

• Orfanos Estate : Tel. +30 2610 522481 - 

www.ktimaorfanou.gr 

• Giannikos Winery: Tel. +30 6947 181973 - 

www.giannikoswinery.com 

• Domaine Skouras: Tel. +30 27510 23688 - 

www.skouras.gr 

• Gaia Wines: Tel. +30 27460 22057 - 

www.gaiawines.gr 

• Tselepos Winery: Tel. +30 2710 544440 - 

www.tselepos.gr 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, 

Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, 

Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle 

Escande, Alain Echalier, Florian Glemot DipWSET, Maria 

Netsika, Samarie Smith DipWSET, Sylvain Patard, Frank 

Rousseau, Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : 

+33 6 30 97 87 26 etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet: +33 6 27 58 47 06 - 

fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: Nicolas 

Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon: 

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente: (+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - 

ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray: 

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe: Philippe Ricros: 

+33 7 61 76 01 22 - pricros@gilbertgaillard.com 

Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76 

l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: +33 9 71 41 51 49 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: +33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: 

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - 

petru@gilbertgaillard.com 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - 

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd - 

http://www.pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director: Sylvain 

Patard • Legal deposit: Second quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. 

Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


117

PAGES 119 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

OUR SUMMER SELECTION 

The second session of 2022 

The easing of a certain number of restrictions paved the way for an extremely eventful series of tastings this 

spring and early summer, both for the number of wines and their variety and provenance. This landmark development 

provides us with the opportunity to present you wines from extremely varied backgrounds, selected from an 

array of several thousands of bottles from around thirty countries. Although the long-standing producer nations 

that are France, Spain, Italy and Portugal are still in the majority, there have been some spectacular breakthroughs 

from Oceania, South America and also Eastern Europe. This is the kind of globalisation we totally embrace! 

SOUTH AFRICA: THE MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS OF THE SLANGHOEK VALLEY (PHOTO OPSTAL) 

THE BEST OF SUMMER 2022 

Our selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 119 to 130. As 

usual, we have chosen to present wines by country (SOUTH AFRICA, SPAIN...), then 

by appellation in each region, with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, 

and finally by tasting scores in descending order. You will find in this issue our rigorous 

selection of South Africa, Aragon, Greece, Italian rosés and wines from Provence. 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT 


SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE RIVER VALLEY 


SOUTH AFRICA 

South Africa offers an explosion 

of flavours, from dry and sweet 

whites to rosés, reds and sparklings 

including Cap Classique. Get a taste 

for variety! 

WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

FLEUR DU CAP 91/100 

D UNFILTERED MERLOT 2017: Ruby brick. 

Red berry fruit and tea-leaf nose. Palate is 

rich and full with sour cherry and cigarbox. 

A classic with leather and spice on the 

finish. Drink through 2024. 

http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 10 

Distell +27 21 886 5640 

FLEUR DU CAP 91/100 

D UNFILTERED CHARDONNAY 2021: 

Yellow straw. Toasty nose with marmalade 

and citrus. Palate is full and rich with a 

touch of oak and dried citrus peel. Complex 

and layered on the lengthy finish. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 6 

Distell +27 21 886 5640 

QUANTUM 91/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Deep 

garnet. Blackberry fruit and cassis on 

the rich nose. Dark berry fruit on the full 

palate with a grainy and well-integrated 

tannin-structure on the finish. A fine wine 

that will age well. 

http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

CAPE ZEBRA 91/100 

D PINOTAGE 2021: Ruby-red with 

crimson reflections. Nose of red fruits 

with a lick of pepper and herbs. Clean, 

very rounded, elegant and silky at point 

of entry. A sun-ripened style that stays 

beautifully fresh on the finish. Serve with 

roast meats. 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3 

Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838 

MENSA 91/100 

D SHIRAZ MALBEC 2020: Ruby-red with 

dark purple tints. Red and black fruits 

on the nose with gorgeous liquorice and 

vanilla notes. Generous, racy palate driven 

by nicely ripe fruit. Velvety, mineral finish. 

Beautifully crafted. Drink with roast or 

grilled meats. 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3.50 


HAVEN POINT 90/100 

D SHIRAZ 2021: Deep ruby-red with 

crimson tints. Endearing nose of ripe 

red and black fruits with touches of 

liquorice and pepper. Elegant, silky palate 

with smoky notes bringing up the rear. 

Refreshing minerality to finish. Serve with 

grills. 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3 


WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BONNIEVALE 

BONNIEVALE 90/100 

D LIMITED RELEASE CHARDONNAY 2021: 

Light yellow. Citrus and marmelade on the 

ripe nose. Full and crisp on the tangy palate 

with citrus and pineapple notes. Some 

hints of cloves on the elegant and wellintegrated 


http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 6.21 

Bonnievale +27 23 616 2795 

BREEDEKLOOF 

MERWIDA 90/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2021: Light yellow. 

Dried apricot and stone fruit on the 

nose. Rich on the palate with stone fruit 

following the nose. Crisp and full on the 

aftertaste with some hints of citrus and a 

well-integrated aftertaste. Complex and 

layered. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.merwida.com Price: € 6.34 

Merwida Wingerde +27 23 349 1144 

ROBERTSON 

RIETVALLEI 94/100 

D 1908 MUSCADEL 2018: Rusty amber 

with a watery rim. Mint and fynbos on 

the rich nose. Palate is austere with herbs 

and spices followed by a touch of red 

cherry. Sweetness is balanced by a finely 

integrated acidity. This wine is unique. 

Keep for decades. 

http://www.rietvallei.co.za Price: € 14.32 

Rietvallei Wine Estate (Pty) Ltd +27 23 626 3596 


D JMB CABERNET FRANC 2016: Ruby 

brick. Tea-leaf and dried fruit on the 

developed nose. Dried fruit and raisins on 

the mature palate with hints of sour cherry, 

leather and forest floor. At it’s optimum, 

but still has some legs. 





garnet. Subdued nose with hints of dark 

berry. Tea-leaf and tomato-leaf on the rich 

palate with a well-integrated acidity and 

a grainy tannin on the finish. Well-made, 

complex and layered. Drink through 2026. 




D MUSCADEL 2018: Rusty orange. 

Turkish delight and mint on the rich nose. 

Sweet and delicious on the full palate with 

a well-integrated acidity to balance the 

stickiness. Strawberry and cherry on the 

well-integrated, but lengthy palate. Will 

keep for decades. 




D ESTÉANNA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: 

Pale yellow. Asparagus and citrus on 

the rich nose. Full on the palate with 

gooseberry, grapefruit and lime. A wellintegrated, 

but present acidity follows 

on the aftertaste. Crisp and lively. Drink 

through 2025. 



ROOIBERG WINERY 90/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2022: Light yellow. 

Fruit-forward nose with stone fruit and 

capsicum. Green apple and litchi on the 

medium palate with a granadilla and litchi 

note on the fragrant finish. A fruit-bomb. 

Crisp and refreshing, but with some weight 

on the aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

https://rooiberg.co.za/ Price: € 3 

Rooiberg winery +27 23 626 1663 


119

SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE - CAPE SOUTH COAST 


WORCESTER 

WYNKELDER 91/100 

D PINOTAGE 2020: Deep ruby brick. 

Developed nose with raisins and prunes. 

Red berry fruit and cranberry on the full 

palate with a toasty note from the oak 

on the full and rich finish. A layered and 

complex wine. Made to age. 

https://bcwines.co.za/ Price: € 8 

Brandvlei Wines +27 23 340 4215 

WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

ELGIN 

PAUL CLUVER 94/100 

D NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2021: Bright gold. 

Honey and citrus nectar on the fragrant 

nose. Lemon-lime and naartjhie on the full 

and rich palate with a tangy granadilla note 

on the finish. Lingering acidity to balance 

the sweetness. Beautifully made. Will keep 

for decades. 

https://www.cluver.com/ Price: € 28.71 

Paul Cluver Wines +27 21 844 0605 

PAUL CLUVER 93/100 

D ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2019: Light 

yellow. Citrus and butterscotch on the rich 

nose. Full and creamy palate with some 

hints of fresh citrus and a finely integrated 

vanilla note on the finish. Lengthy and full 

on the aftertaste. A classic wine that will 

age for many years. 

https://www.cluver.com/ Price: € 17.86 

Paul Cluver Wines +27 21 844 0605 

TOKARA 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Attractive 

freshness expressed in appearance. Green 

pepper, kiwi fruit and guava peel. Well 

carried onto the palate with crisp freshness 

and acid balance. Good length and weight 

on the aftertaste. 

http://www.tokara.com Price: € 7.00 

Tokara +27 21 808 5913 

PLETTENBERG BAY 

NEWSTEAD WINES 92/100 

D BLANC DE BLANC 2016: Light yellow. 

Biscotti and yellow fruit on the ripe nose. 

Crisp and refreshing palate with a zesty 

citrus note on the finish. Some hints 

of granadilla and lime lingering on the 

aftertaste. Fine and integrated mousse. 

This wine will age for many years. 

http://www.newsteadwines.com Price: € 14.59 

Newstead Wine Estate +27 76 300 9740 

WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL REGION 

CAPE TOWN 

DE GRENDEL 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Very pale 

yellow. Sweaty notes of asparagus and 

capsicum on the nose. Litchi, grenadilla 

and white peach on the crisp, but 

integrated palate. Layered and rich. Drink 

through 2025. 

https://degrendel.co.za/ Price: € 6.54 

De Grendel Wine Estate +27 21 558 6280 

COASTAL REGION 

TEUBES 92/100 

ORG D SYRAH / GRENACHE 2020: Ruby 

garnet. Spice and red berry fruit on the 

fragrant nose. Violets and leather on the 

palate with a very smooth dark berry 

finish. Elegant and layered. Delicious. 

Drink through 2026. 

https://teubeswines.com/ Price: € 7.17 

Teubes Family Wines +27 27 213 2377 

DARLING 

DUCKITT 91/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Pale yellow. 

Canned peas and asparagus on the rich 

nose. Full and waxy on the palate with a 

lengthy finish and a herbaceous note that 

follows the nose. Gooseberries and litchi. 

Complex and layered. Drink through 2025. 

http://www.cloof.co.za Price: € 2.60 

Cloof Wine Estate +27 22 492 2839 

DURBANVILLE 

THE JOURNAL 93/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Very 

deep purple. Tomato-leaf and tea-leaf nose 

with dark berry fruit and dried prunes. 

Palate is rich and full with some hints 

of oak and spice. Leather, cocoa and red 

cherry follow on the aftertaste. This wine is 

made to age. Big and bold. Drink through 

2030. 

http://www.diemersdal.co.za Price: € 18 

Diemersdal Wine Estate +27 21 976 3361 


D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow. 

Asparagus and capsicum with gooseberries 

on the nose. Crisp and refreshing palate 

with a lemon-lime note and granadilla on 

the finish. Lengthy aftertaste with a tangy 

note on the aftertaste. Drink though 2026. 




D PINOTAGE 2020: Deep garnet. 

Chocolate and red cherry on the rich nose. 

Palate is big and bold with a well-integrated 

tannin, but a warmth from alcohol on the 

aftertaste. Chocolate and dark coffe on the 

finish. Made to age. Drink through 2030. 



PAARL 

AVONDALE 91/100 

ORG D JONTY’S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE 

2019: Yellow straw. Ripe nose with hints 

of dried fruit and toasty oak. Palate is full 

and rich with a crisp, but well-integrated 

acidity. Lengthy and refined on the full 

aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

Price: € 10.25 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 


ORG D ANIMA 2018: Yellow straw. Honey 

and dried fruit on the developed nose. Full 

and rich on the well-integrated palate with 

a savoury note on the ripe aftertaste. A 

layered and complex wine. Drink through 

2023. 

Price: € 19.83 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 


ORG D ARMILLA 2014: Bright straw. 

Toasty and smoky nose with hints of red 

apple. Pithy on the full palate with a crisp 

acidity and a fine mousse. Red apple and 

citrus notes on the lengthy aftertaste. 

Excellent. Drink through 2030. 

Price: € 21.20 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 


ORG D SAMSARA SYRAH 2012: Deep 

garnet with brick-red rim. Vanilla and 


SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH 


spice on the mature nose. Leather and 

dried fruit on the developed palate. Some 

grip on the finish that has helped this wine 

to age well. Drink within 5 years. 

Price: € 24.62 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 

BROOKDALE 90/100 

D MASON ROAD SERENDIPITY 2021: Light 

onion skin. Red berry fruit and floral notes 

on the fragrant nose. Clean red berry and 

red apple on the medium palate with a well 

integrated, but fresh acidity on the finish. 


https://brookdale-estate.com Price: € 7.16 

Brookdale Estate +27 76 400 0229 

LANDSKROON 92/100 

D PAUL DE VILLIERS SHIRAZ 2019: Light 

yellow. Citrus and marmelade on the ripe 

nose. Full and crisp on the tangy palate 

with citrus and pineapple notes. Some 

hints of cloves on the elegant and wellintegrated 


https://www.landskroonwines.com/ Price: € 9.94 

Landskroon Wines +27 21 863 1039 

PAARL - SIMONSBERG 

MT VERNON 90/100 

D GALILEO 2016: Ruby brick. Matured 

nose with prunes and raisins. Palate is 

developed, but still has some red berry 

notes and sour cherry laced with leather 

and fine spice. Grainy and lengthy on the 

aftertaste. At it’s peak, but very drinkable 

and delicious. 

http://www.mountvernon.co.za Price: € 19.15 

Gravel Junction +27 21 875 5073 

SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH 

LAIBACH 94/100 

ORG D CLAYPOT MERLOT ORGANIC 2017: 

Deep garnet. Blackberry and prunes on the 

rich nose. Deep and dark on the full and 

rich palate with well-integrated wood and 

a dark chocolate note on the finish. This 

is a big and structured wine that will age 

for many years. Excellent example of the 

varietal. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.kanonkop.co.za Price: € 19.16 

Kanonkop Wine Estate +27 21 884 4656 

LAIBACH 91/100 

ORG D CHENIN BLANC SUR LIE ORGANIC 

2020: Straw. Ripe nose with hints of vanilla 

and dried fruit. Palate is full, but crisp 

with dried apricot and some hints of citrus 

following from the nose. Acidity will help 

this wine to age well. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.kanonkop.co.za Price: € 8.94 

Kanonkop Wine Estate +27 21 884 4656 

MURATIE 91/100 

D MARTIN MELCK 2017: Deep ruby 

garnet. Subdued nose with leather and 

spice. Complex and rich on the palate with 

a leathery spice and dark berry fruit on 

the full finish. Grippy and complex on the 

aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.muratie.co.za Price: € 16 

Muratie Wine Farm +27 21 865 2330 

THELEMA 93/100 

D SHIRAZ 2017: Ruby brick. Leather 

and spice on the rich, but developed nose. 

Full and integrated palate with cassis and 

marzipan. Red berry and sour cherry with 

a spicy finish. Excellent. Drink though 

2026. 

http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 11.89 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924 

THELEMA 92/100 


ruby garnet. Tomato-leaf and red berry 

on the rich nose. Pencil shavings and sour 

cherry on the full palate with red berry 

notes on the lengthy aftertaste. A classic 

wine with many layers. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 16.05 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924 

STELLENBOSCH 

IDIOM 92/100 

D BORDIOON 2018: Bright ruby red. 

Cedar, dark berry, cigarbox and spice 

nuances leads to an explosion of spearmint, 

cinnamon and vanilla on the palate. Drink 

in next 10-years. Excellent 

http://www.idiom.co.za Price: € 16 

Bottega Family Wines +27 21 852 3590 

IDIOM 90/100 

D RODANICO 2018: Medium 

concentration in colour. Attractive sweet 

entry with hints of vanilla and oak spice. 

Fresh medley of berries and spice on the 

palate. Friendly tannins offer drink-ability 

now, but will age well over the next 5 years. 



IDIOM 90/100 

D CAPE BLEND 2018: Concentrated ruby 

red. Dark, ripe berry flavours with upfront 

oak spice, cinnamon and cloves. Attractive 

palate with a lingering finish. Ready to be 

enjoyed now, but will age well. 



DELHEIM WINES 92/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2021: Light straw. 

Subdued nose with vanilla and citrus. 

Palate is medium to full with a distinct 

citrus note and a crisp, but well-integrated 

acidity on the finish. Drink through 2029. 

Classic. 

http://www.delheim.com 

Delheim Wines +27 21 888 4600 

DELHEIM WINES 92/100 


garnet. Subdued nose with red berry fruit 

and hints of dark cherry. Palate is full and 

dry with dark and red berry notes following 

from the nose. Grainy tannins on the very 

lengthy and lingering finish. Made to age. 


http://www.delheim.com 

Delheim Wines +27 21 888 4600 

DORNIER 90/100 

D MALBEC 2018: Deep ruby garnet. Dark 

fruit and jam on the subdued nose. Full and 

rich on the palate with a grippy note on the 

finish. A full and structured wine that will 

age well. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.dornier.co.za Price: € 10.20 

Dornier Wines +27 21 880 0557 

EIKENDAL 90/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2021: 

Deep garnet. Subdued nose with hints of 

spice. Grippy and full on the rich palate with 

dark berry fruit and chocolate following 

the nose. A fine and grainy tannin on the 

lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.eikendal.com Price: € 18 

Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422 

HIDDEN VALLEY 93/100 

D HIDDEN GEMS 2018: Deep garnet. 

Red cherry and herbaceous notes on the 

rich nose. Cranberry, tomato-leaf and 

sour cherry on the full and grippy palate. 

Structured and lengthy on the full finish. 

This wine will age for a decade or more. 


http://www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za Price: € 16.92 

Hidden Valley Wines +27 21 880 2646 


121

SOUTH AFRICA - SWARTLAND - RIEBEEKSRIVIER 


HIDDEN VALLEY 90/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light straw. 

Capsicum and gooseberry on the nose with 

hints of lime. Palate is crisp and light with a 

medium structure and a lengthy aftertaste. 

Gooseberry and herbaceous notes follow 

on the finish. Drink through 2025. 

http://www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za Price: € 8.62 

Hidden Valley Wines +27 21 880 2646 

TAMBOERSKLOOF 90/100 

D SYRAH 2018: Deep ruby. Red berry 

nose with violets and dark fruit. Prunes 

and raisins on the palate with dark berry 

jam and a soft leathery note on the spicy 

finish. Classic. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.kleinood.com Price: € 15.00 

Kleinood Wines +27 21 880 2527 

MURATIE 92/100 

D LAURENS CAMPHER BLENDED WHITE 

2019: Light straw. Stone fruit and dried 

citrus on the nose. Green apple and stone 

fruit following the nose. A crisp and fruitforward 

palate with stone fruit and ripe 

apple. Full and layered on the complex 

aftertaste with a well-integrated acidity. 

http://www.muratie.co.za Price: € 16.64 

Muratie Wine Farm +27 21 865 2330 

STELLEKAYA 92/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: 

Attractive deep mulberry red. Fresh 

cherries coated with dark chocolate and 

cedar bouquet. Fine tannins and freshness 

of spearmint offers lingering aftertaste. 

Drink now but will age very well. 

https://www.stellekaya.com/ Price: € 11.82 

Stellekaya +27 21 883 3873 

VERGELEGEN 93/100 

D MERLOT RESERVE 2017: Ruby brick. 

Subdued nose with hints of tea-leaf on 

the developed nose. Rich and ripe on the 

grippy palate with a fine and grainy tannin 

on the aftertaste. Layered and complex. 


https://vergelegen.co.za/ Price: € 16.73 

Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D THE FIRST THOUGHT 2018: Deep garnet 

with browning rim. Subdued on the spicy 

and leathery nose. Red fruit and dried fruit 

on the palate with a grainy tannin and wellstructured 

palate. Dark berry, raisins and 

leather on the layered aftertaste. Drink 

through 2028. 


Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D SCHAAPENBERG SAUVIGNON BLANC 

2020: Pale yellow. Asparagus and white 

pepper on the subtle nose. Green apple 

and canned peas on the layered palate. A 

creamy texture and well-integrated citrus 

notes on the finish. Drink through 2028. 

Well-made. 


Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D THE LAST WORD 2018: Ruby brick. 

Leather and spice on the developed nose. 

Rich and ripe on the full palate with tealeaf 

and red cherry on the spicy finish. 

Grainy tannins on the lengthy finish. Drink 

through 2026. 


Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow. 

White pepper and litchi on the subdued 

nose. Palate is medium to light with a crisp 

acidity on the finish and hints of canned 

peas and asparagus. A reserved wine, but 

layered and finessed. Drink through 2026. 


Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2018: 

Deep garnet with browning rim. Subdued 

nose with fynbos and leather. Spicy on the 

rich palate with a well-integrated tanninstructure 

and grainy on the leathery finish. 



Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 


D VERGELEGEN BRUT MMV 2017: Pale 

yellow. Buttery and citrus peel on the rich 

nose. Palate is crisp, but full and wellintegrated 

with a fine mousse and a lengthy 

citrus-peel finish. Drink through 2027. 


Vergelegen +27 21 847 2100 

WEBERSBURG 92/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016: Ruby 

brick. Leather and red berry on the matured 

nose. Some dried prunes and raisins on the 

developed palate with cigar-box and sour 

cherry. A classic that still has some legs. 


http://www.webersburg.co.za Price: € 22.67 

Webersburg Wine Estate +27 21 881 3636 

SWARTLAND - RIEBEEKSRIVIER 

RIEBEEK CELLARS 90/100 

D COLLECTION - CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2021: Fairly deep, bright red. Black fruits 

are entwined with a mineral tone on 

the nose. The palate is dense right from 

the word go and replicates the same, 

very authentic aromatics. This is a very 

convincing wine. 

http://www.riebeekcellars.com 

Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213 

RIEBEEK CELLARS 90/100 

D COLLECTION - SHIRAZ 2021: Lovely red 

tinged with purple-blue. Very pleasant, 

expressive nose offering up intense fruity 

and mineral notes. The palate delivers 

lovely weight, density and freshness with a 

distinctive finish exuding more of the fruit 

and spice. 

http://www.riebeekcellars.com 

Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213 

WELLINGTON 

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS 91/100 

D ADAMA 2021: Ruby brick. Spicy nose 

with leather undertones. Red berry fruit on 

the medium palate with leather and spice 

following from the nose. Developed and 

warm on the finish. Allow some more time 

in the bottle. 

http://www.bosmanwines.com Price: € 11.47 

Bosman Family Vineyards +27 21 873 3170 

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS 91/100 

D ADAMA 2021: Bright yellow straw. 

Subdued nose with secondary characters 

of dried fruit. Stone fruit and vanilla on 

the palate with a present, but integrated 

acidity. Citrus follows on the aftertaste. 

A complex and layered wine that will age 

well. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.bosmanwines.com Price: € 11.47 

Bosman Family Vineyards +27 21 873 3170 

Prices mentioned in this book are guideline 

and can vary depending on point of sale. 

The shops, wineries or publisher can in no 

way be held responsible for this. 


SPAIN - VT BAJO ARAGON 


ARAGON 

This Spanish province, ‘sandwiched’ 

between Navarre and Catalonia, has 

yet to be explored, with its varietal 

heritage beautifully showcased by 

dynamic independent winegrowers 

and co-operatives. 

CARIÑENA D.O. 

CLAVE DE SOL 90/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2021: Pale yellow with 

light green highlights. Nose of citrus fruits 

and white flowers with touches of white 

fruits and menthol. Nervy, zippy attack. 

A balanced wine showing substantial 

freshness and great sourness on the finish. 

Drink with a platter of seafood. 

http://www.covinca.es Price: € 6.99 

Covinca +34 976 142 653 

CLAVE DE SOL 90/100 

D GARNACHA SYRAH 2020: Brilliant 

ruby-red tinged with crimson. Nose of red 

fruits with liquorice and vanilla touches. 

Clean palate following on from the nose 

offering up oaky accents and great balance. 

Peppery freshness on the finish. Serve with 

grilled meats. 

http://www.covinca.es Price: € 6.99 

Covinca +34 976 142 653 

GRAN DUCAY 90/100 

D GARNACHA OLD WINE 2018: Deep 

garnet-red with faint mature highlights. 

Nose of blackcurrant and blackberry with 

spice and undergrowth notes. Gratifying, 

powerful, sun-ripened palate revealing 

beautifully ripe fruit. Drink with a beef 

stew. 

http://www.sanvalero.com Price: € 7 

Bodegas San Valero +34 976 620 400 

MARQUÉS DE VALDECAÑAS 90/100 

D GRAN RESERVA 2014: Garnet-red with 

ruby-brown tints. Toasted vanilla on the 

nose with jammy red fruit notes, spices, 

pepper and liquorice. Fairly sensual palate 

with tannins nicely tethered to lush fruit. 

Restrained heat and a lingering finish. 

Glides beautifully across the palate. 

http://www.sanvalero.com Price: € 6 

Bodegas San Valero +34 976 620 400 

TORRELONGARES 90/100 

D BLANCO 2020: Pale gold with silvery 

tints. A mix of fresh white fruits, sweet 

spices and flower infusion on the nose. The 

palate shows great aromatic purity with 

sappy, fleshy fruit. The finish stays close 

to the fruit, coupled with great sourness in 

this very pure, fleshy wine. 

http://www.covinca.es Price: € 4 

Covinca +34 976 142 653 

SOMONTANO D.O. 

BODEGA PIRINEOS 90/100 

D PIRINEOS CHARDONNAY 2019: Brilliant 

pale yellow. Promising nose where whitefleshed 

fruits are entwined with floral 

notes. A consistent attack is followed by a 

rounded, ample, lively palate which takes 

on a faint spicy accent. Lacks neither 

purity nor intensity. A delicious, modern, 

elegant wine. 

https://www.barbadillo.com/bodega-pirineos/ Price: € 7.50 

Bodega Pirineos SA +34 974 31 22 73 

PIRINEOS 90/100 

D SELECCION CRIANZA 2016: 

Concentrated cherry-red with dark ruby 

tints. Jammy red berries adorn the nose 

HARVESTING IN ARAGON. 

backed by fine smoky oak. Smooth tannin 

structure with an ample, rounded attack 

and wholesome line-up of aromatics. 

Ripe fruits and racy oak influence. Has 

everything going for it. 

https://www.barbadillo.com/bodega-pirineos/ Price: € 11.99 

Bodega Pirineos SA +34 974 31 22 73 

VT BAJO ARAGON 

BODEGAS TEMPORE 90/100 

ORG D ESENZIA OLD VINE TEMPRANILLO 

2020: Crimson with ruby and dark purple 

tints. Expressive nose intermixing floral 

characters, jammy stone fruits and spice. 

Powerful palate with muscular weight 

counterbalanced by sappy fruit which 

adds suppleness and freshness. A mouthcoating 

Tempranillo. 

http://www.bodegastempore.com Price: € 6 

Bodegas y Vinos de Lecera S.L. (Bodegas Tempore) 

+34 976 835 040 

ARDE 89/100 

ORG D GARNACHA 2020: 

http://www.bodegastempore.com Price: € 5.50 

Bodegas y Vinos de Lecera S.L. (Bodegas Tempore) 

+34 976 835 040 


123

GREECE - MACEDONIA AND THRACE 


GREECE 

This summer, be sure to try our lineup 

of top-flight Greek wines blending 

international and native grape 

varieties. 

MACEDONIA AND THRACE 

A VINEYARD LANDSCAPE IN NEMEA, PELOPONNESE, GREECE. 

FLORINA 

ALPHA ESTATE 91/100 

D ECOSYSTEM SAUVIGNON BLANC 

SINGLE BLOCK KALIVA 2020: Pale hue with 

green tints. The nose offers up distinctive 

grapefruit and bush peach notes with 

floral aromatics of cut grass. Acidity adds 

a spin to the palate and enhances the lifted 

feel. Aroma is vibrant in this rich, thirstquenching 

wine. 

http://www.alpha-estate.com/ Price: € 8.30 

Alpha Estate +30 2 386 020 111 

IMATHIA 

ΜΑΥΡΗ ΔΡΥΣ 95/100 

D NO VINTAGE : Clear brick-red with 

orangy highlights. Mesmerising nose 

where menthol, garrigue and orange zest 

are entwined with coffee and sweet spices. 

Full-bodied, tense palate showing great 

precision and complexity. A lively wine 

with a splendid granular, saline finish. 

Marvellous. 

https://www.vaeni-naoussa.com Price: € 25 

Vaeni Naoussa +30 2 332 044 274 

NON- APPELLATION WINES 

KIR-YIANNI 93/100 

D NAOUSSA - DIAPOROS 2017: Clear 

red with amber-like traces. Racy nose 

combining red fruits, liquorice, garrigue, 

fine spices and exotic wood. The palate is 

robust and virile, displaying finesse and 

splendid aromatic intensity. Tense and 

precise. Bravo. 

http://www.kiryianni.gr Price: € 45 

Kir-Yianni +30 2 332 051 100 

PELOPONNESE 

ACHAIA 

CASTRO CLAUSS 93/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2021: Pale yellow with 

brilliant highlights. Rich nose accented by 

almonds, juicy peach and white flowers. On 

the palate is a wonderful duel between the 

chewy feel, breadth and length revolving 

around a core of gorgeous fruit and soft 

oakiness. Savoury chiselled finish. Superb. 

http://www.castoclauss.gr Price: € 55 

Castro Clauss +30 2 610 522 812 

ORFANOS 90/100 

D MALAGOUZIA 2021: Beautiful clear 

yellow-gold. Very pleasant, exotic and 

endearing nose of fresh grape and melon. 

More of the same, crunchy aromatics 

on the palate which offers up a heady 

but harnessed array of flavours. An 

introductory wine for those who love fruit. 

https://ktimaorfanou.gr Price: € 12.90 

Orfanos Estate +30 2 610 522 481 

ARGOLIDA 

METRON ARISTON 88/100 

D VINTAGE 2021 

http://www.papantonis.gr/ Price: € 10 

Papantonis Winery +30 2 751 023 620 

CORINTHIA 

GIANNIKOS WINERY 91/100 

ORG D RETSINA : Straw-yellow with faint 

coppery highlights. Nose of exotic fruits 

with balsamic touches. Lots of character 

on the palate which is unusually styled. 

A wine with a fine resin-like feel where 

the balsamic pine notes continue to play 

a supporting role and do not dominate. 

Successful. 

http://www.giannikoswinery.com/ Price: € 15 

Giannikos Winery +30 6 947 181 973 

PAPAIOANNOU 91/100 

ORG D PETIT VERDOT LYRIC 2005: Bright 

garnet with bricking. Racy nose combining 

red fruits, spices, liquorice, menthol and 

wood with a nice sheen in the background. 

Mature, lively palate with a sleek profile. Its 

appetising, saline intensity is a real treat. A 

wine that has reached its destination. 

https://www.papaioannouwines.gr/index.php/en Price: € 30 

A & G Papaioannou winery +30 2 746 023 694 

TRIFILIA 

PANAGIOTOPOULOS WINES 91/100 

ORG D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010: 

Dark garnet-red with bricking. Endearing 

nose of stewed black fruits with touches of 

undergrowth and liquorice. The palate is 

expressive and concentrated and delivers 

Mediterranean aromatics with a taste of 

the sunshine. Serve with grilled red meats. 

http://panagiotopoulos.com/ 

Panagiotopoulos Wines +30 2 763 041 190 

NON- APPELLATION WINES 

ANTONOPOULOS 92/100 

D VERTZAMI 2019: Ruby-red tinged 

with crimson. Dark fruits combined with 

pepper and liquorice touches on the nose. 

The palate is powerful and structured and 

carries over from the nose. This is a wine 

showing youthful vigour. Decant or cellar 

for a few years before drinking. 

http://www.akvineyards.gr Price: € 30 

Antonopoulos K.Vineyards +30 2 610 580 117 


ITALY - FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA 


ITALIAN ROSÉS 

An often-overlooked fact is that Italy 

is a producer of rosé wines, something 

that is amply demonstrated in our 

selection of 40 wines from 15 different 

regions which illustrate to perfection 

its amazing variety. 

AOSTA VALLEY 

VALLE D’AOSTA D.O.C. 

LA SOURCE 88/100 

D ROSÉ 2020 

http://www.lasource.it Price: € 12 

La Source di Celi Stefano & C +39 016 590 40 38 

ABRUZZO 

CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO D.O.C. 

JASCI & MARCHESANI 89/100 

ORG D BIOLOGICO 2021 

http://www.jasciemarchesani.it Price: € 6.90 

Jasci & Marchesani +39 087 336 43 15 

AZIENDA AGRICOLA GIOVENZO 87/100 

CR D RITORNA 2020 

http://www.giovenzo@pec.it Price: € 11 

Giovenzo +39 348 140 07 81 

AZIENDA AGRICOLA TOCCO 87/100 

ORG D CAPOSTAZIONE 2020 

http://www.toccovini.com Price: € 10 

Azienda Agricola Tocco +39 085 854 11 75 

JASCI 87/100 

ORG D 2021 

http://www.jasci.it Price: € 8 

Azienda Agricola Jasci Donatello +39 0873 36 83 29 

TENUTE BRACALANTE 87/100 

D 2020 

Price: € 6 

Tenute Bracalante +39 328 818 14 73 

VILLA GEMMA 87/100 

D 2020 

http://www.masciarelli.it Price: € 15 

Masciarelli +39 087 185 241 

APULIA 

CASTEL DEL MONTE BOMBINO 

NERO D.O.C.G. 

FIOR DI RIBES 88/100 

ORG D BOMBINO NERO 2021 

http://www.vinisantalucia.com Price: € 13.50 

Santa Lucia +39 081 764 28 88 

PUGLIA I.G.T. 

TRIGLIA 88/100 

D NEGROAMARO ROSATO 2019 

http://www.cignomoro.it Price: € 25 

Cignomoro +39 334 121 99 36 

CAIAFFA VINI 87/100 

ORG D TROIA ROSATO 2020 

http://www.caiaffavini.it Price: € 9 

Caiaffa Vini +39 329 344 95 55 

SALENTO I.G.T. 

PODERE DON CATALDO 91/100 

D NEGROAMARO ROSATO 2021: Brilliant 

light salmon. Expressive nose marrying 

wild flowers, spices and red berry fruits. 

Invigorating palate with seductively 

intense, clear, crisp flavours. Persistent 

spicy finish. A very enjoyable, well-made 

wine. 

http://www.roccavini.com Price: € 9 

Rocca Vini +39 039 65 01 51 

CANTINE DE FALCO 90/100 

D ARTIGLIO 2020: Fiery pink. Crisp nose 

of fresh fruits and flowers (watermelon, 

strawberry, citrus) with sweet spice notes. 

Powerful palate with a lovely sun-kissed 

feel. Great structure with a bold, tangy 

fruit core and flavourful finish. Sides with 

red wines. 

http://www.cantinedefalco.it Price: € 16 

Cantine de Falco +39 083 271 15 97 

CONTI ZECCA 90/100 

CR D VENUS 2021: Pale salmon with 

orangy highlights. Expressive nose 

combining redcurrant, plum and a spice 

accent. Supple at point of entry with a lovely 

feel on the palate of harmony, intensity and 

precision. Beautiful mouth-filling, fleshy 

weight supported by chiselled freshness. 

Lovely. 

http://www.contizecca.it Price: € 12 

Azienda Agricola Conti Zecca Soc Coop +39 083 292 56 13 

MASSERIA ALTEMURA 90/100 

D ZÌNZULA 2021: Light salmon with 

blush highlights. Pleasant nose marrying 

red berry fruits, eucalyptus and some 

spices. Lovely aromatic attack ushering in 

a consistent, ample palate which delivers 

a generous array of delightful flavours. 

Fresh, saline finish. Delicious. 

http://www.casavinicolazonin.it Price: € 14.50 

Casa Vinicola Zonin +39 044 46 40 111 

VINICOLA MEDITERRANEA 88/100 

D LEGRAZIE 2021 

http://www.vinicolamediterranea.it 

Vinicola Mediterranea +39 0831 67 63 23 

PANDORA 87/100 

D ASTREA 2019 

Price: € 6 

Pandora +39 083 155 58 38 

CALABRIA 

CALABRIA I.G.T. 

STATTI 88/100 

D GRECO NERO 2020 

http://www.statti.com Price: € 8.95 

Statti +39 9 68 45 61 38 

CIRÒ D.O.C. 

FATTORIA SAN FRANCESCO 88/100 

D ROSATO 2021 

http://www.tenutaiuzzolini.it Price: € 6 

Tenuta Iuzzolini +39 096 237 38 93 

FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA 

VENEZIA GIULIA I.G.T. 

PIERPAOLO PECORARI 87/100 

D ROS’ALBA 2021 

http://www.pierpaolopecorari.it Price: € 10.50 

Pecorari Pierpaolo Azienda Agricola +39 048 180 87 75 


125

ITALY - LIGURIA 


LIGURIA 

LIGURIA DI LEVANTE I.G.T. 

CANTINE FEDERICI - VINICOLA LA BAIA DEL SOL 

88/100 

CR D PRIMA BREZZA 2020 

http://www.cantinefederici.com/ Price: € 12 

Cantine Federici - Vinicola La Baia del Sole +39 0187661821 

MARCHE 

MARCHE I.G.T. 

FATTORIA LE TERRAZZE DI TERNI ANTONIO 

88/100 

D PINKFLUID 2020 

http://www.fattorialeterrazze.it Price: € 9 

Fattoria Le Terrazze di Terni Antonio +39 071 739 03 52 

LE SITE GRANDIOSE DE SIDDURA, DANS LE NORD DE LA SARDAIGNE. 

PIEDMONT 

MONFERRATO D.O.C. 

LA BOLLINA 89/100 

D TINETTA 2021 

http://www.labollina.it Price: € 9.50 

La Bollina +39 014 361 984 

PIEMONTE D.O.C. 

DEZZANI 88/100 

D 2021 

http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 7 

Dezzani +39 014 190 70 44 

MONTALBERA 87/100 

D CALYPSOS 2021 

http://www.montalbera.it Price: € 10.50 

Società Agricola Montalbera s.r.l. +39 01 19 43 33 11 

SARDINIA 

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA D.O.C. 

SIDDURA 89/100 

D NUDO 2020 

http://www.siddura.com/it Price: € 12.50 

Società Agricola Siddura +39 079 65 73 027 

CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS D.O.C. 

CANTINA SANTADI 90/100 

D TRE TORRI 2021: Pale pink. Delicate 

nose with red fruit accents developing 

after airing. The palate shows precise 

aromatics with clear suggestions of ripe 

strawberry. The finish is crisp, fresh and 

quite persistent. A rosé full of promise. 

http://www.cantinadisantadi.it Price: € 7.90 

Cantina Santadi +39 078 195 01 27 

SICILY 

ETNA D.O.C. 

MOFETE 88/100 

ORG D 2020 

https://www.palmentocostanzo.com/en/ Price: € 15 

Palmento Costanzo +39 392 138 00 66 

SICILIA D.O.C. 

W/O 89/100 

ORG D NERO D’AVOLA 2021 

http://www.cantinecolombabianca.it Price: € 12 

Cantine Colomba Bianca +39 092 394 27 47 

MORGANTE 88/100 

D ROSÈ DI MORGANTE 2021 

http://www.morgantevini.it Price: € 10 

Morgante +39 092 294 55 79 

TERRE SICILIANE I.G.T. 

CADEMUSA 89/100 

ORG D ROSÉ ORGANIC 2021 

http://www.cantineermes.it Price: € 5 

Cantine Ermes Soc. Coop. +39 092 467 153 

DEI PRINCIPI DI SPADAFORA 87/100 

ORG D DON PIETRO ROSATO 2019 

http://www.spadafora.com Price: € 10 

Dei Principi di Spadafora +39 091 514 952 

TRENTINO 

VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI I.G.T. 

VILLA CORNIOLE 91/100 

CR D RAMATO 2019: Light orangy pink. 

Rich nose offering up a touch of pastry, 

liquorice and ripe red fruits. Savoury palate 

with lace-like fruitiness boasting intense 

power of seduction. A wine focusing on 

elegance rather than concentration that 

works with an elaborate starter. 

https://www.villacorniole.com/ Price: € 15 

Villa Corniole +39 046 169 50 67 


Pages 116 to 122 

TOP WINES 

AND BRANDIES 

ITALY - VINO D’ITALIA 


OUR SELECTION 

— SARDINIA - SICILY - CAPE BRANDIES - MEDAL-WINNING WINES — 

TUSCANY 

BARCO REALE DI 

CARMIGNANO D.O.C. 

TENUTA DI ARTIMINO 90/100 

CR D VIN RUSPO 2021: Light salmonpink. 

Precise nose offering up myriad 

fruit accents with peach, red fruits and 

watermelon. Generous, robust palate with 

fruit as the standard-bearer. Very smooth, 

spicy mouthfeel on the finish for this very 

refreshing, structured rosé. Pairs with 

summer foods. 

http://www.artimino.com Price: € 12.50 

Tenuta di Artimino +39 055 875 14 24 

COSTA TOSCANA I.G.T. 

The best of AUTUMN 2021 

VENETO 

BARDOLINO CHIARETTO D.O.P. 

Our Autumn 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 116 to 122. We 

have chosen to present wines by region (SARDINIA, CAPE BRANDIES...), then by appellation in each region, 

with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and finally by tasting scores in descending order. 

LE TENDE 88/100 

ORG D 2021 

http://www.letende.it Price: € 8.20 

Le Tende Azienda Agricola di Fortuna E Lucillini S S. 

+39 045 759 07 48 

BARDOLINO D.O.C. 

IL SOGNO DI ARIANNA 89/100 

FRANCE 


D 2021 

http://www.cantinedelibori.com 

Delibori +39 045 626 06 55 

Philippe Gaillard 

DELLE VENEZIE D.O.C. 

a touch of François spice. Gilbert The palate is very full, 

COSTA TOSCANA 87/100 Olivier Delorme 

James Turnbull fleshy and very aromatic with seductive 

ORG D ROSATO 2020 

AMICONE 90/100 Seville orange aromatics. A rosé with real 

http://www.tenutepiccini.it Price: € 8 

D PINOT GRIGIO 2021: Very SOUTH pale AFRICA 

character, well worth trying. 

SOUTH AFRICA 

Tenute Piccini +39 0577 540 11 

pink with light blush tints. Lovely nose http://www.lauraaschero.it/ Price: € 12.50 

delivering raspberries and strawberries Laura Aschero +39 018 371 03 07 

TOSCANA I.G.T. 

with fresh touches of menthol. The palate 

SALCHETO 88/100 

NINA COSTA 88/100 

is fruity to start, echoing the nose. This is 

ORG D OBVIUS ROSATO SENZA FLITRI 2020 a refreshing wine which slips across the D AMBROISIA 2020 

http://www.salcheto.it/ Price: Matthieu € 15 Gaillard palate and ends with a salty François note. Bezuidenhout 

Drink 

Price: € 10 

Salcheto +39 057 879 90 31 with salads. 

Costa Stefanino Az. Agr. Di Costa Alessandro +39 3332750256 

Wine scores 

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives 

enough range to evaluate every characteristic that we taste in a 

wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring: 

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets 

exceptional winemaking expertise. 

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and 

remarkable winemaking. 

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its 

typicity and character. 

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for 

a pleasurable wine drinking experience. 

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable. 

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable. 

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible. 

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale. 

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications. 

THE TASTING PANEL 


Sylvain Patard 

http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 13.80 

Schenk Italia +39 047 180 33 11 

IL PINO 88/100 

D PINOT GRIGIO 2020 

http://www.cantinasocialetrento.it 

Cantina Sociale di Trento Le Meridiane +39 0461920186 

Wine characteristics 

■ RED WINE 

■ DRY WHITE WINE 

■ ROSE WINE 

■ SWEET WHITE WINE 

VINO D’ITALIA 

VINO D’ITALIA 

LAURA ASCHERO 90/100 

D ROSATO 2021: Brilliant orangy hue. 

Pleasant nose of ripe citrus fruits with 

ORG: Organic Wine. 

CONV: In the process of converting to organic 

production. 

CR: This statement refers to sensible farming 

methods where use of inputs or agri-chemicals are 

restricted. These include fertilisers or other crop 

protection products, the aim being to limit their 

impact on the environment to a minimum. 

AGEABILITY 

■ SPARKLING BRUT 

■ SPARKLING EXTRA-BRUT 

■ SPARKLING BRUT ROSE 

■ BRANDIES 

D= DRINK NOW D= DRINK NOW OR KEEP D= KEEP 

AUTUMN 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 115 


127

FRANCE - ALPES-DE-HAUTE-PROVENCE 


PROVENCE 

Steer clear of the clichés surrounding 

rosés and summer and dip into 

our delicious selection of the finest 

Provence wines, across the colour 

spectrum and from Aix-en-Provence 

to Nice. 

ALPES-DE-HAUTE-PROVENCE 

DOMAINE DES BERGERIES DE HAUTE PROVENCE 93/100 

ORG D VIA DOMITIA 2021: Brilliant, 

translucent colour with green tints. Racy 

nose blending citrus fruits, mountain 

flowers and a mineral tone. Beautiful 

plump, concentrated, nervy palate with 

chiselled, precise aromatics. A wine 

with noteworthy intensity and delicacy, 

designed for gourmet foods. 

https://domainedesbergeries.fr/ Price: € 18 

Domaine des Bergeries de Haute Provence +33 6 07 33 39 66 

DOMAINE DES BERGERIES DE HAUTE PROVENCE 92/100 

ORG D VIA DOMITIA 2021: Brilliant pale 

orangy colour with silver tints. The nose 

is low-key and mixes red fruits with fine 

spices. A silky attack flows into an elegant, 

more effusive palate. The conversation is 

savoury and spicy. This is a wine displaying 

finesse and great persistence. 

https://domainedesbergeries.fr/ Price: € 15 

Domaine des Bergeries de Haute Provence +33 6 07 33 39 66 

BANDOL 

DOMAINE DE L’OLIVETTE 91/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2018: Vibrant ruby-red. 

Give it some swirls in the glass and the 

nose opens up to touches of stone fruit and 

more herbal tones of garrigue. The palate is 

mouth-filling, dense and full-bodied with 

tannin presence along with aromas in a 

very seductive, earth-like style. 

http://www.domaine-olivette.com Price: € 22 

Domaine de l’Olivette +33 4 94 98 58 86 

DOMAINE DE L’OLIVETTE 91/100 

D VINTAGE 2018: Vibrant ruby-red. The 

nose opens up after airing to stone fruit 

touches and more herbal tones of garrigue. 

The palate is mouth-filling, dense and fullbodied 

with tannin and aroma presence in 

a very appealing land-driven style. 

http://www.domaine-olivette.com Price: € 22 

Domaine de l’Olivette +33 4 94 98 58 86 

LA CADIÉRENNE 90/100 

CR D CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION 2021: 

Light salmon with cherry tints. Subtle nose 

marrying red fruits, spices and fine herbal 

touches. A supple attack leads into a wellstructured, 

ample, robust, nervy palate 

accented by liquorice and Oriental spices. 

Feeling of invigorating freshness. 

http://www.cadierenne.fr Price: € 10.70 

La Cadiérenne +33 4 94 90 11 06 

BELLET 

CHÂTEAU DE CRÉMAT 92/100 

ORG D MILLÉSIME 2016: Deeply coloured 

with ruby-brown tints. Smoky toast with a 

delicate cedar note and crisp, juicy, jammy 

red and black berries on the nose. Saline 

feel on the palate with generous fruit, racy 

oak influence and elegant tannins. A Bellet 

with assertive character. Needs decanting. 

https://chateaucremat.com/ 

Château de Crémat +33 4 92 15 12 15 

BOUCHES DU RHÔNE TERRE 

DE CAMARGUE 

DOMAINE DU MAS DE REY 88/100 

CONV D TERRE DE CAMARGUE 2021 

http://www.domaine-masderey.com Price: € 4.10 

Domaine du Mas de Rey +33 4 90 96 11 84 

COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE 

DOMAINE DES OULLIÈRES 90/100 

CR D HARMONIE 2020: Pale yellow 

with green tints. Spring-like nose mixing 

meadow flowers, cut grass, citrus and 

white fruits. The palate is lush and beguiles 

with its clean characters, appetising 

fruit definition, freshness and sense of 

fulfilment. A white wine that deserves fine 

gourmet foods. 

Price: € 8 

Domaine des Oullières +33 4 42 92 83 39 

CLOS DES 3 SOURCES 87/100 

ORG D MILLÉSIME 2020 

https://www.chateau-gassier.fr/ Price: € 7 

Gassier +33 4 42 66 38 74 

VILLA MAGALONE 87/100 

CR D LE GRAND BAIN 2021 

Price: € 5.95 

Les Monopoles +33 6 22 98 17 19 

COTEAUX VAROIS EN 

PROVENCE 

CHÂTEAU D’OLLIÈRES 93/100 

D HAUT DU PRIEURÉ 2019: Dark colour 

tinged with ruby. Toasted vanilla, spice 

notes, wild plants and stone fruits line 

up on the nose. The palate is elegantly 

powerful and kept in control by the sappy 

tannins. Fruit is pervasive and framed by 

freshness. A wine crafted with pinpoint 

precision. 

http://www.chateau-ollieres.com Price: € 21.90 

Château d’Ollières +33 4 94 59 85 57 

CANTARELLE 89/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2021 

http://www.domaine-de-cantarelle.fr Price: € 6.50 

Domaine de Cantarelle +33 4 94 80 96 01 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE 

CHÂTEAU SAINT-MAUR 93/100 

D L’EXCELLENCE 2020: Pale gold with 

crystalline tints. Complex smoky, stony and 

fruity nose (pear, peach) with wild flower 

and chamomile notes. Savoury, saline 

palate marrying aromatic generosity, 

fullness and finesse. Sense of fulfilment on 

the finish. Off to a promising start. 

http://www.chateausaintmaur.com Price: € 25 

Château Saint Maur +33 4 94 54 63 12 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 92/100 

D RÉSERVE 2016: Deeply coloured with 

garnet tints. Delicate oakiness fuses with 

ripe berries and wild, woodland notes on 

the nose. Voluptuous, ample mouthfeel 

with silky fruit and soft oak influence. 

Natural elegance stems from the profound, 

authentic flavours. 

http://www.chateauroubine.com 

Château Roubine +33 4 94 85 94 94 

CHÂTEAU SAINT-MAUR 92/100 

D L’EXCELLENCE 2020: Pale salmonpink. 

Captivating nose blending Seville 

orange, red berry fruits, wild flowers and 

a stone note. The palate is fleshy with very 

elegant aromatics. A lace-like wine with 


FRANCE - CÔTES DE PROVENCE 


MOUNT SAINTE VICTOIRE HAS BEEN WATCHING OVER CHÂTEAU COUSSIN SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL. 

a smooth mouthfeel and well-integrated 

acidity. Unrivalled charm. 

http://www.chateausaintmaur.com Price: € 23 

Château Saint Maur +33 4 94 54 63 12 

COMTE DU PUGET 92/100 

CONV D MILLÉSIME 2021: Beautiful light 

orangy pink. Lovely intensity on the nose 

which shows clear citrus fruit suggestions. 

The palate confirms the aromatics in 

a fleshy, appetising style with great 

balance and an ample, persistent finish. 

Remarkable. 

https://www.vignobledechavette.com/ Price: € 9 

Domaine de Chavette +33 6 07 27 95 83 

CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 91/100 

D RÉSERVE 2020: Bright pale gold. Rich 

nose scented with apple, pear, peach, 

white flower infusion, anise and sweet 

spices. The palate shows nuance with 

sensitive aromatics buoyed by freshness. 

Subtle flavours, body and length. This is a 

palatable, nourishing wine. 

http://www.chateauroubine.com 

Château Roubine +33 4 94 85 94 94 

AZURE WINE 90/100 

CR D ROSÉ N° 9 2021: Pale salmon-pink 

with metallic highlights. Delicate nose 

of red fruits with subtle sweet spice and 

menthol touches. Very fresh, fruity palate 

with a great mineral finish. A food-friendly 

rosé that works from starter through to 

pudding. 

Price: € 17.90 

Azure Wine France +33 6 24 85 88 24 

CHÂTEAU DE BRÉGANÇON 90/100 

CONV D HERMANN SABRAN 2019: 

Beautiful deep ruby. Compelling nose of 

ripe red and black berry fruits. The palate 

offers up a lovely, very silky mouthfeel 

with ripe, fresh aromatics. The finish is 

robust and stays very harmonious in this 

consummate wine. 

http://www.chateaubregancon.com Price: € 49.50 

Château de Brégançon +33 4 94 64 80 73 

CHÂTEAU DE POURCIEUX 90/100 

CONV D MILLÉSIME 2021: Bright, light 

pink with metallic highlights. Red fruit 

overtones on the nose with menthol and 

pepper touches. The palate combines 

tangy, saline tones with a sensation of 

© SERGE CHAPUIS 

mineral freshness on the finish. Drink with 

an entire summer’s meal. 

https://www.chateau-de-pourcieux.com/ Price: € 11.50 

Château de Pourcieux +33 4 94 59 78 90 

CHÂTEAU VAUDOIS 90/100 

CR D MILLÉSIME 2021: Light orangy 

hue with blush highlights. Racy nose 

combining red fruits, stone fruits, spices 

and a mineral touch. The palate is true to 

its roots and combines exuberance and 

power with beautifully clean aromatics. 

Pairs with Provencal cuisine. 

https://www.chateau-vaudois.com/ Price: € 15 

Château Vaudois +33 4 94 81 49 41 

CHÂTEAU VAUDOIS 90/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021: Light orangy hue 

with blush highlights. Racy nose combining 

red fruits, stone fruits, spices and a 

mineral touch. The palate shows good siteexpressiveness, 

combining liveliness and 

power with beautifully clean aromatics. 

Works with Provencal cuisine. 

https://www.chateau-vaudois.com/ Price: € 15 

Château Vaudois +33 4 94 81 49 41 

DOMAINE DE LA SANGLIÈRE 90/100 

D VERTU 2021: Light orangy hue with 

coppery highlights. Lovely nose combining 

grapefruit, stone fruits and delicate spices. 

Good grip on the palate. This is a silky, 

plump, nervy wine displaying exemplary 

precision that underscores the spice 

accent. A rosé for gourmet foods. 

http://www.domaine-sangliere.com Price: € 6.95 

Domaine de la Sanglière +33 4 94 00 48 58 

VILLA DIVINE 90/100 

CR D MILLÉSIME 2021: Pale salmon-pink 

with metallic highlights. Delicate nose 

of red fruits with subtle sweet spice and 

menthol touches. Very fresh, fruity palate 

with great minerality to finish. A foodfriendly 

rosé that works with an entire 

summer’s meal. 

Price: € 17.90 


CHÂTEAU DE POURCIEUX 89/100 

CONV D MILLÉSIME 2021 

https://www.chateau-de-pourcieux.com/ Price: € 11.50 

Château de Pourcieux +33 4 94 59 78 90 

CHÂTEAU LA CASTILLE 88/100 

D GLORIUS 2021 

https://www.chateaulacastille.com/ Price: € 12 

Château la Castille +33 7 57 41 87 05 


129

FRANCE - CÔTES DE PROVENCE FRÉJUS 


© HERVÉ FABRE 

THE TEMPERATURES AT DAWN HELP HARVEST COOL FRUIT. 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE FRÉJUS 

CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 89/100 

ORG D ANGÉLICO 2021 

http://www.chateaupaquette.fr/ Price: € 10.90 

Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90 

CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 89/100 

ORG D ANGÉLICO 2021 

http://www.chateaupaquette.fr/ Price: € 10.90 

Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE NOTRE- 

DAME DES ANGES 

TERRES AILÉES DE GONFARON 88/100 


http://www.vignerons.gonfaron.org Price: € 7.90 

Les Maîtres Vignerons de Gonfaron +33 4 94 78 30 02 

CÔTES DE PROVENCE SAINTE 

VICTOIRE 

CHÂTEAU COUSSIN 92/100 

D CÉSAR À SUMEIRE COUSSIN 2020: 

Brilliant salmon-pink. Bouquet of fresh 

fruits, spring flowers and a touch of 

minerality. A fleshy rosé with a silky 

mouthfeel and juicy fruit that leaves the 

palate fresh. Sweet spice notes on the 

finish. Set aside for scallop carpaccio. 

http://www.sumeire.com Price: € 19.90 

Famille Sumeire +33 4 42 61 20 00 

CHÂTEAU COUSSIN 91/100 

D MILLÉSIME 2020: Pale salmon-pink. 

The nose opens to citrus aromas, melon 

and cherry with floral and cut herb 

notes. Mentholated freshness, a wave of 

appetising fruit and an elegant finish 

mark the palate. This is a delicious rosé for 

cheese puffs. 

http://www.sumeire.com Price: € 13 

Famille Sumeire +33 4 42 61 20 00 

L’OLYMPE 89/100 


https://www.cellier-marius-caius.fr/ Price: € 8.30 

Cave La Fraternelle - Marius Caius +33 4 98 05 12 05 

HAUTES-ALPES 

DOMAINE DE TRESBAUDON 90/100 

D U CHJUCU CORSU 2021: Brilliant pale 

gold with silver tints. Expressive nose 

revealing yellow stone fruits and dried 

herbs with oaky undertones. A lively 

attack is followed by a plump, ample palate 

delivering articulate flavours. Touch of 

grapefruit and lovely site-expressiveness. 

Drink with poultry. 

https://www.domaine-de-tresbaudon.com/fr Price: € 12 

Domaine de Tresbaudon +33 4 92 54 19 28 

MÉDITERRANÉE 

#ROSÉ TIME! 88/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2021 

Price: € 9.90 


DOMAINE DE LA SANGLIÈRE 

88/100 

D 80 2021 

http://www.domaine-sangliere.com Price: € 4.65 

Domaine de la Sanglière +33 4 94 00 48 58 

VAR 

CHÂTEAU LA CASTILLE 91/100 

D SANCTI 2020: Beautiful dark rubyred 

with crimson highlights. Black 

fruits, graphite and liquorice notes on 

the nose then a robust, structured and 

harmoniously balanced palate. A Provencal 

style with fresh, sun-kissed tones. Serve 

with grilled meats. 

https://www.chateaulacastille.com/ Price: € 5.90 

Château la Castille +33 7 57 41 87 05 


FIND OUT MORE 

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FREE ACCESS TO REVIEWS OF MORE THAN 27,000 WINES 

DOZENS OF ARTICLES ABOUT WINE REGIONS AROUND THE WORLD 

www.gilbertgaillard.com/en

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