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ITALY – DISCOVERY – Puglia and its wine revolution Puglia is one of the regions in southern Italy which has carved out a reputation for itself in recent years for both its quality and its identity, drawing on a winning combination of both native and international grape varieties. By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 90 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY – DISCOVERY – Although Primitivo (Zinfandel), Negroamaro and Nero di Troia are the varieties which most frequently represent the region in the domestic and international markets, the range of Puglian grapes is in fact much broader and includes native grape varieties such as the lesser known Bombino Nero, Malvasia Nera, Aleatico, Sussumaniello and Ottavianello (Cinsaut), as well as Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Aglianico and international cultivars Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon. White grapes from the region include Bombino Bianco, Malvasia Bianca, Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano and Pampanuto, as well as Fiano, Moscato Bianco and Chardonnay. The Puglia wine region is divided between hills and plains. Starting in the north, the Gargano area is a promontory of limestone and eruptive rocks, with slopes clad in Mediterranean scrub. Heading south you encounter the Tavoliere area, in the province of Foggia, with its sandy-clay alluvial soils. This is followed by Murgia, a very extensive area with soils of limestone agglomerates, which extends across the provinces of Barletta-Andria- Trani, Bari and Brindisi. Lastly is Salento, a very fertile, cool zone with limestone soils, located in the province of Lecce and partly extending into Brindisi and Taranto. The total area under vine is approximately 85,000 hectares, some 75% planted to red grape varieties. Amastuola’s vineyards are located in Valle d’Itria heading towards the sea, around the Arco Ionico area FROM BLENDING WINES TO QUALITY BOTTLINGS The real revolution in Puglian wine, however, cannot be expressed in numbers, but in the work of forward-thinking producers who have moved beyond the principles of quantity and deeply-coloured, structured wines (a legacy of the era when Puglian wines were considered to be blending wines) to embrace a more sensitive approach to the region through the use of typical vines and longstanding training systems. This includes the use of the ‘Alberello’ system, which has been used for thousands of years and features in the writings of the Roman authors Pliny the Elder, Horace and Tibullus. Puglia has always been a very important supplier of wine and oil, producing products strongly linked to its tradition and culture which, today, are finally getting the recognition they deserve. The wine cellar at Conti Zecca, located in Leverano. Founded in the 1930s, Conti Zecca is one of Puglia’s longstanding wine producers WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 91
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CHAMPAGNE, WHERE STYLE IS EVERYTHIN
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CONTENTS - COLUMNS • REPORTS - 8
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EDITORIAL - PHILIPPE GAILLARD - Edi
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Cavavin N°46_Mise en page 1 27/11/
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PERFECT HARMONY - CIGARS AND CAPE B
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Reserve wines
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - an opportunity
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TASTING TASTING — RARE BOTTLE —
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - some oddities.
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Mathilda Tedes
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - WINTER 2021 GI
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Odilon de Vari
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Nicollas Vall
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MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR W
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Château
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Olivier Rouquet at Isolette RHONE V
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Edouard G
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - appellati
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VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - Harve
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Page 45 and 46: Sweeping vistas of the Tour Castill
Page 47 and 48: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - taken, none of
Page 49 and 50: A hot-air balloon display at Châte
Page 51 and 52: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - Sébastien Mont
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Page 57 and 58: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - In the west of
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Page 61 and 62: Michel Legallois in his cider works
Page 63 and 64: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - Dominique Le B
Page 65 and 66: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - The desicca
Page 67 and 68: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Samuel Tino
Page 69 and 70: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Vivien Ujv
Page 71 and 72: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Brother and
Page 73 and 74: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Zoltán Dem
Page 75 and 76: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Clusters of g
Page 77 and 78: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Josep Maria B
Page 79 and 80: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - in terms of c
Page 81 and 82: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - RAMON CANALS
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Page 85 and 86: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - José Luis Oli
Page 87 and 88: Casa Santos Lima’s vineyards with
Page 89: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - Hillside viney
Page 93 and 94: ITALY - DISCOVERY - The Montanaro f
Page 95 and 96: ITALY - DISCOVERY - climate is char
Page 97 and 98: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Podere Don Cata
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Page 101 and 102: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - In actual
Page 103 and 104: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Armando S
Page 105 and 106: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Serena Wi
Page 107 and 108: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - The Manza
Page 109 and 110: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Valerio C
Page 111 and 112: The South African viticultural land
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Page 121 and 122: STARS - & WINE - Courteney Cox: “
Page 123 and 124: CONTACT - DETAILS - CIGARS - PAGES
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Page 127 and 128: FRANCE - Champagne PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_
Page 129 and 130: FRANCE - Champagne CHAMPAGNE RÉMI
Page 131 and 132: FRANCE - Champagne Dom Caudron’s
Page 133 and 134: SPAIN - Catalonia SPAIN OUR WINTER
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Page 139 and 140: Enter the Gilbert & Gaillard Intern
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