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HUNGARY
– RENAISSANCE –
Zoltán Demeter who has pioneered the sparkling wine revolution
in Tokaj since 2009
grapefruit, green apple and pear entwined with a chalky feel
and gorgeous pastry notes. The attack is full of energy and
the bubbles are creamy. Fruit-driven length lingers on and
on suffused with more mineral notes on the finish. This
gratifying, vinous, concentrated and elegant wine also paves
the way for the advent of fine sparkling wines from Tokaj.
Drawing on 4 centuries of producing top noble rot wines,
Tokaj is on the cusp of a new era focusing on fine dry
whites and sparkling wines. With climate change afoot,
Tokaj has many assets for securing a prime place in the
world of fine wines. Hungary is home to a raft of microclimates.
Mirroring its top quality whites, it also excels
in producing fine red wines, like those by the Jammertal
estate in the Villány region, in the southern part of the
country. Jointly run by winemaker Zsófia Kövesdi and
viticulturist Zsolt Nagy, the estate has risen right to the
top with its superlative quality wines, primarily the Koh-
I-Noor range. Produced from international grape varieties,
they were awarded first-rate scores in the Gilbert & Gaillard
International Challenge which you can find at the end of
this issue.
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 73