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HUNGARY
– RENAISSANCE –
Vivien Ujvári, the talented young winemaker at Barta Pince
each label matches one of the 6 permitted grapes in
Tokaj. The n°3 is dedicated to Furmint, the king of the
region’s varietal range, which accounts for about 67% of
plantings. It is defined by its vertical acid structure which
makes it the backbone of Tokaji fine wines and lends
them substantial ageability. It can appear austere and
not very aromatic when it is slightly under ripe or the
yields are too high. But with controlled yields, the finest
dűlős – or growths in Hungary – can produce energetic
and extremely refined wines. The Intuition n°3 offers
up a crystalline nose recalling green apple, pear, passion
fruit and delicate mineral notes. On the palate, the attack
is clean and vibrant, followed by substantial aromatic
richness combining the freshness of the fruit with the
smoothness of the oak in which the wine was matured
for 5 months. The mineral finish is supported by intense
salinity which drives the gentle sourness typical of the
variety over many long seconds.
BARTA PINCE, FEMININE ELEGANCE
In the same tiny village of Mád, the manor house at
Domaine Barta is a splendid example of architecture
harking back to the region’s golden era. Bought by the
family in 2003, it has been restored in the purest local
tradition and now welcomes visitors. The vineyards cover
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 69