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HUNGARY
– RENAISSANCE –
Pascal Demkó, owner of Holdvölgy Estate
fact that the wines are very challenging to produce and can
easily fail during the maturation phase. Also, its consumer
base is restricted to a few well-informed enthusiasts looking
for rare gems. Vinified with no added sulphites, the
Szamorodni Száraz produced by Samuel Tinon are matured
for 6 years. Showing remarkable intensity and precision,
they encapsulate all the passion and huge amount of
patience the winegrower has put into them.
HOLDVÖLGY, RIGOROUS PRECISION
In the small, tranquil, picture-postcard village of Mád is
an estate where rigour and precision are the rule. Just like
in a high-tech laboratory, its owners – Natalia Demkó
and her brother Pascal – ferment single batches of the 6
permitted grape varieties from the property’s 25 blocks of
vines in 6 growths, in a very sophisticated style. Their aim
is to drill down and get a very precise understanding of the
combinations of the grape varieties and vineyards they own
in order to extract their quintessential characters. Overall
production is therefore divided between myriad singlevineyard
wines produced in minute amounts. One of their
single-vineyard offerings is the Intuition n°3 range from
the superb 2017 vintage – it is a remarkable rendition of
the native Furmint grape variety. Numbered from 1 to 6,
68 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE