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HUNGARY
– RENAISSANCE –
wines in barely a decade, and more recently towards
sparkling wines. Our visit to seven estates, with the uberknowledgeable
Tokaj ambassador Gergely Somogyi as
our guide (see box on page 7), gave us the opportunity
to discover the outstanding quality and variety of styles
of wines produced across the region.
The tasting ‘room’ with breath-taking views over the Petracs vineyard
OREMUS, THE CUSTODIAN OF TRADITION
Created in 1993 by the prestigious Spanish group Vega
Sicilia, Oremus has remained focused on fine noble rot
wines, which account for 60% of production from its
80 hectares under vine. Located on the edge of a labyrinth
of underground galleries used for ageing the wines,
the estate’s winery is built on three levels. The grapes
are brought to the upper level, then undergo stringent
sorting depending on their final destination. They are
then transported by gravity to the different presses
on the middle level where they are fermented. Once
fermentation is over, the wines are then again transported
by gravity to the lower level with its galleries hewn out
of the volcanic rock to be matured in one of the estate’s
1,000 or so oak barrels. The oak comes from the Zemplén
forests where the climate is harsh, producing very finegrain
wood. This unique feature provides reduced microoxygenation,
which is ideal for the lengthy maturation
period of Aszú wines that must last for at least 18
months. Aszú wines now come in two versions: 5 or
6 puttonyos, depending on the level of residual sugar.
They are produced by macerating Aszú grapes in must
or in dry white base wine for between 12 and 60 hours,
depending on the desired style. Consequently, Aszú wine
boasts the freshness of dry white wine, coupled with the
rich aromatics and sweetness of Aszú grapes. The 2013
Aszú 5 puttonyos label is a sumptuous wine with notes
of acacia, dried apricot, orange peel marmalade and
pastry-like flavours of honey and gingerbread, supported
by fat and sweetness on the palate which counterbalance
its high acidity. The overall feeling beckons imbibers
towards meditation.
The endless underground network of galleries at Oremus Estate
SAMUEL TINON, A FRENCHMAN IN TOKAJ
Samuel moved to Tokaj over twenty years ago and is
now one of the region’s most enthusiastic ambassadors.
66 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE