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The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine :
Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine :
Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
HUNGARY – RENAISSANCE – Tokaj, at the dawn of a new era This historic wine region enjoyed its golden era from the 17 th to the 19 th century, before it was devastated by phylloxera, then undermined by 40 years of Soviet rule. Since 1990, Tokaj has recovered its prestige, not only thanks to the wines for which it is renowned, but also through innovative fine dry white and sparkling wines. By Florian Glemot - Photographs: courtesy of the estates 64 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
HUNGARY – RENAISSANCE – The desiccation process of the berries after being affected by noble rot In the North-East of Hungary, not far from the borders with Ukraine and Slovakia, lies the country’s most famous wine region – Tokaj. The first wine region to be classified with growths in 1670, it would go on to secure one of the first appellations in history, in 1737. At that time, Tokaj’s fine noble rot wines were very popular with Russian and European aristocrats. Set in the foothills of the Zemplén Mountains, the vineyards now cover 5,800 hectares of poor, volcanic soils facing South-East and South to South-West. At the foot of these rolling hills run two rivers, the Bodrog and the Tisza, which help create the mantle of morning fog that emerges in September and the spread of the fungus Botrytis Cinerea. The rot pierces the grape skins and infects the fruit before being obliterated by the afternoon sunshine. The grapes are then gradually desiccated, take on brownish hues and develop concentrated aromas, sugars and acids to become Aszú, like the eponymous, storied noble rot wine of Tokaj. Mirroring the trend for Sauternes, since the turn of the century Tokaji has borne the brunt of plummeting consumption of noble rot wines worldwide. So, without turning its back on its glorious past – and incredible showcase for the region across the globe – Tokaj has successfully reinvented itself by transitioning towards the production of dry white WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 65
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- Page 61 and 62: Michel Legallois in his cider works
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HUNGARY<br />
– RENAISSANCE –<br />
Tokaj, at the dawn of<br />
a new era<br />
This historic wine region enjoyed its golden era from the 17 th to the 19 th century,<br />
before it was devastated by phylloxera, then undermined by 40 years of Soviet rule.<br />
Since 1990, Tokaj has recovered its prestige, not only thanks to the wines for which<br />
it is renowned, but also through innovative fine dry white and sparkling wines.<br />
By Florian Glemot - Photographs: courtesy of the estates<br />
64 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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