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CIDERS
– DISCOVERY –
In the west of France, the orchards of Normandy and
Brittany are part and parcel of the landscape. This year’s
apple harvest started quite late – at the beginning of
October – and volumes are lower than in previous years
due to a dull summer and adverse weather conditions.
This is bad news for an industry providing 15,000 jobs
and boasting 600 cider works, which has already had to
cope with the pandemic and a drop in stocks. Cider is
rooted in French tradition and has many assets. Produced
by fermenting apple juice, its flavours and low alcohol
content, ranging from 2 to 8% ABV, are a magnet for
consumers. In France, apple orchards account for a quarter
of all fruit orchards, equating to 35,000 hectares, 9,000
of which are planted to specific varieties for producing
cider. At less than 2 litres per year per capita, French cider
consumption is significantly lower than for wine or beer.
This can be ascribed to its highly seasonal nature – sales
peak at the beginning of the year and in the summer, and
outside Brittany and Normandy consumption is relatively
low. The marketing board and several brands have grasped
the nettle by rolling out PR campaigns to promote cider
and broaden the consumer base. We met the main players
in a market that is decidedly bubbly!
The La Sapinière cider works
LA FERME DE LA SAPINIÈRE:
A PASSION FOR CIDER
Near the D-Day landing beaches and the American
cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, the orchards belonging to
Philippe and Michel Legallois invite visitors to discover the
Ferme de la Sapinière. The two ‘flavour artisans’ have been
producing Pommeau de Normandie, Calvados, apple juice
and of course cider since 1991. “Our organically-farmed
orchards are home to 35 different varieties of cider apples”,
says Michel Legallois. “The ciders are vintage-labelled
and produced by natural fermentation in the bottle with
no added carbon dioxide”. Here, customer relations are
prioritised. Cellar door sales account for 70% of the total
and exports 4%, mainly to Germany, Belgium and Mexico.
Apple Oak is a naturally fermented cider. It matures for the
first 5 months in tanks, then it ferments in relatively new
Cognac barrels. The resultant cider shows distinctive balance
between fine tannins and acidity, delicate effervescence and
a long finish driven by notes of mature spirits.
Michel Legallois of the La Sapinière
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 57