FRA_GG_N46-WEB
The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine :
Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine :
Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
BORDEAUX BORDEAUX - WINE – WINE GROWER GROWER PORTRAIT PORTRAIT – - “Being a winegrower is hard work and not necessarily wellpaid. But if you can make a living out of it, it’s the best job in the world”. could head up the business. Roux comments: “This took me by surprise because he has a strong personality, but in his mind things were clear. He realised that this was the preferable option for the business to be successful. So at age 26, Roux’s journey began. Aiming to succeed at all costs, he spared no effort and worked all hours. He expanded the business by picking up his phone and calling supermarket buyers, which he gradually brought on board. Then he started exporting, which raised issues. The business was growing strongly, but how should it develop? What opportunities should be considered? After an audit designed to shed light on these issues, he decided to diversify by purchasing Château Taffard de Blaignan (Médoc) in 2013. In just five years, the property was totally overhauled and went from 21 to 68 bearing hectares. It was sold in 2018 to buy three other chateaux, representing four brands: Plagnac, Pontey, Holden and Puy-Castéra. The latter of these was not really on the agenda, but its location near the prominent Médoc properties blew Roux away. The challenge henceforth was to produce the finest wines, whilst honouring the inherent features of each vineyard site. Plagnac is a Médoc offering everyday luxury, as Roux so eloquently defines it, retailing for between 5 and 7 euros. The wines are relatively early-drinking and therefore quickly accessible, which is a strategic asset. Pontey is denser, more earthy and complemented by beautiful tannin finesse imparted by a share of new oak and 90% Merlot, which is very rare in the Médoc. Roux has learned a lot from Pascal, who is tasked with winemaking and will soon retire. But the future lies with 27-year-old Etienne, a winemaker and agricultural engineer, whom he has recruited to manage the three properties. As Roux says: “He has the technical background and an innovative vision that I don't necessarily have”. Holden is part of the Puy Castéra vineyards (11 hectares). It is more animal and wilder, but also very fruit-driven. Puy Castéra itself epitomises fullness, finesse and elegance, along with lovely concentration guaranteeing ageability. Eighty thousand bottles are produced and there is even a second wine: L'Octave de Puy-Castéra. The name is both a nod to music and to his wife's grandfather. Laboratory and consultancy services for the wine are provided by Eric Boissenot who has long partnered with the greatest Médoc chateaux. Roux has not rested on his laurels and has ventured 54 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 54 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
“The most important thing is to have a “The most important vision, a project and thing is to have a challenges to vision, a project and address”. challenges to address”. Romain Roux was blown Romain away Roux by was PuyCastéra. blown away by PuyCastéra. The environment is The a core environment issue at PuyCastéra, is a core issue where at PuyCastéra, bee hives stand where close bee to hives the stand chateau. close to the chateau. Combining Combining rugby rugby and and wine, wine, his his two two greatest greatest passions. passions. into into other other prestigious appellations, with with the the same same core core aim aim of of moving moving upmarket and and diversifying. He He now now owns 2.8 2.8 hectares in Saint-Estèphe, 0.8 0.8 hectares in in Pauillac and 0.3 hectares in in Margaux. MAKING PEOPLE HAPPY When When asked asked what what his his next next dream is, is, his his answer is is above all all that that of of a a husband and and father, which is is to to spend time regularly with with his his wife wife and and children. But But from a a professional perspective, the the hyperactive Romain Roux immediately waxes waxes lyrical lyrical about about his his forthcoming projects. He He plans to to establish establish a new a new brand, brand, Provenance, labelled IGP IGP Terres du du Midi, Midi, across across the the colour colour spectrum spectrum and and including boxed wines, wines, with with 10 10 million million bottles. bottles. And And as as he he concludes pragmatically: pragmatically: “My “My main main dream dream is is to to make make people people happy, happy, which which makes makes me me happy happy too. too. But But I'm I'm not not just just a a philanthropist philanthropist either”. either”. WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55
- Page 3 and 4: CONTENTS - COLUMNS • REPORTS - 8
- Page 5 and 6: EDITORIAL - PHILIPPE GAILLARD - Edi
- Page 7 and 8: Cavavin N°46_Mise en page 1 27/11/
- Page 9 and 10: PERFECT HARMONY - CIGARS AND CAPE B
- Page 11 and 12: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Reserve wines
- Page 13 and 14: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - an opportunity
- Page 15 and 16: TASTING TASTING — RARE BOTTLE —
- Page 17 and 18: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - some oddities.
- Page 19 and 20: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Mathilda Tedes
- Page 21 and 22: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - WINTER 2021 GI
- Page 23 and 24: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Odilon de Vari
- Page 25 and 26: CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Nicollas Vall
- Page 27 and 28: MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR W
- Page 29 and 30: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Château
- Page 31 and 32: Olivier Rouquet at Isolette RHONE V
- Page 33 and 34: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Edouard G
- Page 35 and 36: RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - appellati
- Page 37 and 38: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - Harve
- Page 39 and 40: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - repre
- Page 41 and 42: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - even
- Page 43 and 44: VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - DOMAI
- Page 45 and 46: Sweeping vistas of the Tour Castill
- Page 47 and 48: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - taken, none of
- Page 49 and 50: A hot-air balloon display at Châte
- Page 51 and 52: BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - Sébastien Mont
- Page 53: BORDEAUX BORDEAUX - WINE GROWER POR
- Page 57 and 58: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - In the west of
- Page 59 and 60: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - in Normandy. E
- Page 61 and 62: Michel Legallois in his cider works
- Page 63 and 64: CIDERS - DISCOVERY - Dominique Le B
- Page 65 and 66: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - The desicca
- Page 67 and 68: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Samuel Tino
- Page 69 and 70: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Vivien Ujv
- Page 71 and 72: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Brother and
- Page 73 and 74: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Zoltán Dem
- Page 75 and 76: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Clusters of g
- Page 77 and 78: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - Josep Maria B
- Page 79 and 80: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - in terms of c
- Page 81 and 82: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - RAMON CANALS
- Page 83 and 84: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - One of the in
- Page 85 and 86: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - José Luis Oli
- Page 87 and 88: Casa Santos Lima’s vineyards with
- Page 89 and 90: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - Hillside viney
- Page 91 and 92: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Although Primit
- Page 93 and 94: ITALY - DISCOVERY - The Montanaro f
- Page 95 and 96: ITALY - DISCOVERY - climate is char
- Page 97 and 98: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Podere Don Cata
- Page 99 and 100: ITALY - DISCOVERY - non-experts ali
- Page 101 and 102: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - In actual
- Page 103 and 104: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Armando S
“The most important<br />
thing is to have a<br />
“The most important<br />
vision, a project and<br />
thing is to have a<br />
challenges to<br />
vision, a project and<br />
address”.<br />
challenges to<br />
address”.<br />
Romain Roux was<br />
blown Romain away Roux by was<br />
PuyCastéra. blown away by<br />
PuyCastéra.<br />
The environment<br />
is The a core environment issue<br />
at PuyCastéra,<br />
is a core issue<br />
where at PuyCastéra,<br />
bee hives<br />
stand where close bee to hives<br />
the stand chateau. close to<br />
the chateau.<br />
Combining<br />
Combining<br />
rugby<br />
rugby<br />
and<br />
and<br />
wine,<br />
wine,<br />
his<br />
his<br />
two<br />
two<br />
greatest<br />
greatest<br />
passions.<br />
passions.<br />
into into other other prestigious appellations, with with the the same same core core aim aim<br />
of of moving moving upmarket and and diversifying. He He now now owns 2.8 2.8<br />
hectares in Saint-Estèphe, 0.8 0.8 hectares in in Pauillac and 0.3<br />
hectares in in Margaux.<br />
MAKING PEOPLE HAPPY<br />
When When asked asked what what his his next next dream is, is, his his answer is is above all all<br />
that that of of a a husband and and father, which is is to to spend time regularly<br />
with with his his wife wife and and children. But But from a a professional<br />
perspective, the the hyperactive Romain Roux immediately<br />
waxes waxes lyrical lyrical about about his his forthcoming projects. He He plans to to<br />
establish establish a new a new brand, brand, Provenance, labelled IGP IGP Terres du du<br />
Midi, Midi, across across the the colour colour spectrum spectrum and and including boxed<br />
wines, wines, with with 10 10 million million bottles. bottles. And And as as he he concludes<br />
pragmatically:<br />
pragmatically:<br />
“My<br />
“My<br />
main<br />
main<br />
dream<br />
dream<br />
is<br />
is<br />
to<br />
to<br />
make<br />
make<br />
people<br />
people<br />
happy,<br />
happy,<br />
which<br />
which<br />
makes<br />
makes<br />
me<br />
me<br />
happy<br />
happy<br />
too.<br />
too.<br />
But<br />
But<br />
I'm<br />
I'm<br />
not<br />
not<br />
just<br />
just<br />
a<br />
a<br />
philanthropist<br />
philanthropist<br />
either”.<br />
either”.<br />
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55<br />
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55<br />
WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 55
Change language