FRA_GG_N46-WEB

BORDEAUX
BORDEAUX
- WINE
– WINE
GROWER
GROWER
PORTRAIT
PORTRAIT –
-
“Being a winegrower is hard work and not necessarily well­paid. But if
you can make a living out of it, it’s the best job in the world”.
could head up the business. Roux comments: “This took me
by surprise because he has a strong personality, but in his
mind things were clear. He realised that this was the
preferable option for the business to be successful. So at
age 26, Roux’s journey began. Aiming to succeed at all costs,
he spared no effort and worked all hours. He expanded the
business by picking up his phone and calling supermarket
buyers, which he gradually brought on board. Then he
started exporting, which raised issues. The business was
growing strongly, but how should it develop? What
opportunities should be considered? After an audit
designed to shed light on these issues, he decided to
diversify by purchasing Château Taffard de Blaignan (Médoc)
in 2013. In just five years, the property was totally overhauled
and went from 21 to 68 bearing hectares. It was sold in 2018
to buy three other chateaux, representing four brands:
Plagnac, Pontey, Holden and Puy-Castéra. The latter of these
was not really on the agenda, but its location near the
prominent Médoc properties blew Roux away. The challenge
henceforth was to produce the finest wines, whilst
honouring the inherent features of each vineyard site. Plagnac
is a Médoc offering everyday luxury, as Roux so eloquently
defines it, retailing for between 5 and 7 euros. The wines are
relatively early-drinking and therefore quickly accessible,
which is a strategic asset. Pontey is denser, more earthy and
complemented by beautiful tannin finesse imparted by a
share of new oak and 90% Merlot, which is very rare in the
Médoc. Roux has learned a lot from Pascal, who is tasked
with winemaking and will soon retire. But the future lies with
27-year-old Etienne, a winemaker and agricultural engineer,
whom he has recruited to manage the three properties. As
Roux says: “He has the technical background and an
innovative vision that I don't necessarily have”.
Holden is part of the Puy Castéra vineyards (11 hectares). It
is more animal and wilder, but also very fruit-driven. Puy
Castéra itself epitomises fullness, finesse and elegance, along
with lovely concentration guaranteeing ageability. Eighty
thousand bottles are produced and there is even a second
wine: L'Octave de Puy-Castéra. The name is both a nod to
music and to his wife's grandfather. Laboratory and
consultancy services for the wine are provided by Eric
Boissenot who has long partnered with the greatest Médoc
chateaux. Roux has not rested on his laurels and has ventured
54 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
54 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE