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The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine : Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine :
Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
– BLENDING –<br />
A Grenache vineyard at Domaine Martin in the<br />
southern Rhone Valley<br />
In Rasteau, the dry red wines are very structured and<br />
aromatic, with Grenache, the main grape variety,<br />
imparting abundant roundness. Old-vine Grenache<br />
produces wines with a silky tannic backbone and aromas<br />
of ripe fruit and spices, whereas Syrah lends the dry reds<br />
an intense colour and appealing notes of black fruit,<br />
violet and pepper. Although Grenache is the most widely<br />
planted grape variety in the southern Rhone, Syrah is the<br />
dominant variety in the northern Rhone Valley. Here,<br />
it is fermented as a single red grape variety, although it<br />
can be grown alongside the white Viognier in Côte-Rôtie<br />
and with Roussanne and Marsannne in Saint-Joseph and<br />
Hermitage. In Cornas, Syrah is grown as a single varietal<br />
across the 136-hectare appellation. The very pronounced,<br />
long-standing dichotomy between Syrah in the North and<br />
Grenache in the South of the Rhone valley is still true<br />
today. Syrah has gained currency in the cooler southern<br />
and Languedoc vineyard sites in the Pic Saint-Loup and<br />
Terrasses du Larzac appellations, where it is preferred to<br />
Grenache, unlike in the southern Rhone.<br />
In the southern Rhone Valley and at Châteauneuf du Pape, limestone shards<br />
lend the wines at Maison Ogier elegance and pronounced minerality<br />
JUDICIOUS USE OF WOOD<br />
Founded in 1859, Maison Ogier - which belongs to the<br />
Advini group - is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the<br />
heart of the most prestigious of the southern French<br />
appellations. In order to interpret the subtle variations<br />
in the vineyard sites in the Côtes du Rhône, Ogier has<br />
honed its knowledge of the appellation’s soils - pebbles,<br />
fawn-sands, red sandstone, limestone fragments – and<br />
then adapted its fermentation and maturation techniques<br />
accordingly. Its century-old cellars house more than 8,000<br />
hl of wooden tanks, tuns, demi-muids, barrels and conical<br />
wooden vats. But this in no way implies that the wines are<br />
over-oaky. Quite the contrary. “Although each label has<br />
its own identity, our fruit is co-fermented (several grape<br />
varieties in the same vat) to produce unique balance and<br />
complexity through this intimate fusion of grape varieties.<br />
Although some of our wines are matured in concrete<br />
tanks to preserve fruit, most of our red wines benefit from<br />
being matured in oak barrels to preserve their typicity<br />
whilst at the same time gaining in finesse and freshness.<br />
The northern growths, which are mainly Syrah-based,<br />
spend some time in new oak, as do some of our southern<br />
32 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE