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The GILBERT & GAILLARD International Magazine : Make some room in your lounge for WINE REGIONS from around the world

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RHONE VALLEY<br />

– BLENDING –<br />

A Grenache vineyard at Domaine Martin in the<br />

southern Rhone Valley<br />

In Rasteau, the dry red wines are very structured and<br />

aromatic, with Grenache, the main grape variety,<br />

imparting abundant roundness. Old-vine Grenache<br />

produces wines with a silky tannic backbone and aromas<br />

of ripe fruit and spices, whereas Syrah lends the dry reds<br />

an intense colour and appealing notes of black fruit,<br />

violet and pepper. Although Grenache is the most widely<br />

planted grape variety in the southern Rhone, Syrah is the<br />

dominant variety in the northern Rhone Valley. Here,<br />

it is fermented as a single red grape variety, although it<br />

can be grown alongside the white Viognier in Côte-Rôtie<br />

and with Roussanne and Marsannne in Saint-Joseph and<br />

Hermitage. In Cornas, Syrah is grown as a single varietal<br />

across the 136-hectare appellation. The very pronounced,<br />

long-standing dichotomy between Syrah in the North and<br />

Grenache in the South of the Rhone valley is still true<br />

today. Syrah has gained currency in the cooler southern<br />

and Languedoc vineyard sites in the Pic Saint-Loup and<br />

Terrasses du Larzac appellations, where it is preferred to<br />

Grenache, unlike in the southern Rhone.<br />

In the southern Rhone Valley and at Châteauneuf du Pape, limestone shards<br />

lend the wines at Maison Ogier elegance and pronounced minerality<br />

JUDICIOUS USE OF WOOD<br />

Founded in 1859, Maison Ogier - which belongs to the<br />

Advini group - is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the<br />

heart of the most prestigious of the southern French<br />

appellations. In order to interpret the subtle variations<br />

in the vineyard sites in the Côtes du Rhône, Ogier has<br />

honed its knowledge of the appellation’s soils - pebbles,<br />

fawn-sands, red sandstone, limestone fragments – and<br />

then adapted its fermentation and maturation techniques<br />

accordingly. Its century-old cellars house more than 8,000<br />

hl of wooden tanks, tuns, demi-muids, barrels and conical<br />

wooden vats. But this in no way implies that the wines are<br />

over-oaky. Quite the contrary. “Although each label has<br />

its own identity, our fruit is co-fermented (several grape<br />

varieties in the same vat) to produce unique balance and<br />

complexity through this intimate fusion of grape varieties.<br />

Although some of our wines are matured in concrete<br />

tanks to preserve fruit, most of our red wines benefit from<br />

being matured in oak barrels to preserve their typicity<br />

whilst at the same time gaining in finesse and freshness.<br />

The northern growths, which are mainly Syrah-based,<br />

spend some time in new oak, as do some of our southern<br />

32 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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