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CHAMPAGNE
– STYLES –
The Barfontarc co-operative winery
de Reims. Its predominant trait is its fruitiness, and its
sun-ripened characters. The Champagnes are therefore
more easy-drinking, he points out. Pinot noir is the
dominant grape here, accounting for 95% of the varietal
range. The Brut Tradition thus inevitably contains 80%
Pinot noir, with a balance of Chardonnay, and accounts
for approximately 80% of sales. The bottles currently
being marketed have a backbone of 2016 vintage wines,
with 24% reserve wines. “Four years’ maturation for
a non-vintage Brut has become rare”, stresses Vallée.
Particularly when it has a price tag of €22. The reason
for this is that most of the cooperative’s members are
winegrowers, and don’t have another job. They are
therefore mindful to keep their Champagnes affordable,
so their pricing policy is deliberately restrained.
The Blanc de Noirs label, made entirely from Pinot
noir, could almost be a non-vintage Brut because of the
level of fruitiness in the Pinot noir. Despite this, it is
powerful and works particularly well with Parma ham
or parmesan.
Just before Covid, building work was carried out on the
co-operative so that it could welcome visitors and serve
its Champagnes with local produce. The house’s priority
is about spending time welcoming visitors, remaining
accessible, reaching out to all audiences, providing
consensual wines and making people want to hold their
flute out for a second glass, all of which contribute to its
style and image.
The Barfontarc winery welcomes visitors with open arms
THE MYRIAD ASPECTS OF CHAMPAGNE
Evidently, there are countless ways of hitting the
right notes and as many instruments to do it with.
Consequently, it is difficult to refer to ‘Champagne’ and
more relevant to speak of ‘Champagnes’. Do you prefer
the laser-sharp freshness of a Blanc de Blancs? Or the
delicate balance and complexity of a Champagne by a
prominent house that has matured for several years? Do
the full body and vinous aromas of a Blanc de Noirs take
your fancy? Or rather the gratifying flavours of an Extra
Dry or a Demi-Sec? The magic of this extensive wine
region is its ability to provide an extensive array of wines,
where everyone can effortlessly find what they’re looking
for, both in terms of style and price points.
26 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE