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Bosman owner Petrus Bosman says Nero d’Avola thrives under the bright African sun Jasper Raats has achieved an 89-point rating for his organic Stellenbosch Sangiovese, The Silk Weaver 2019 Dornier winemaker Philip van Staden rescued an unwanted block of Tinta Barocca in the Swartland Cavalli winemaker Craig Barnard appreciates the uniqueness and freshness of Verdelho Bosman cellarmaster Corlea Fourie predicts a widespread shift to heat-resistant cultivars in coming years 118 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA – NEW VARIETIES – Cremello 2020 (91 points). ‘We planted the Verdelho in 2000,’ says winemaker Craig Barnard. ‘It was planted so that we could have a unique offering, initially as part of a complex blend, but as the vines got older the quality really started to shine through so we took the decision also to bottle it as an individual wine. It has an amazing acidic backbone which lends the wine a vibrant freshness. When used with older barrels, you are able to get great structure in the wine without impacting on the floral, perfumed and exotic aromatics. I definitely think more producers should consider planting it. It is well suited to our terroir as the summer heat allows the vines to ripen early and evenly, thereby retaining freshness.’ It was memories of drinking Portuguese Vinho Verde on family in Mozambique that first got the Newton Johnson family thinking about planting ‘Alvarinho’ at their eponymous farm in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley with its maritime climate. Their research led them across the Spanish border to the classical expression of the grape that they most wanted to pursue: Albariño from the granite soils of Rias Baxas. ‘As the Upper Hemel-en- Aarde is an “island” of granite between the shale soils of our neighbouring appellations, we had an unusual opportunity to work with a white variety suitable for our granite soils and maritime climate,’ says managing director Bevan Newton Johnson. ‘We sourced some material from UC Davis in California.’ Made by Newton Johnson’s brother, Gordon, and sisterin-law, Nadia, the Albariño has been enthusiastically received since the first general release in 2015, with the 2020 scoring 90 points. ‘The wine is fermented and matured in a combination of concrete eggs, old oak barrels and stainless steel tanks to preserve the clear aromatics of the grape, along with good mid-palate texture and fresh acidity to finish off. We are getting a good feel for it after eight vintages, except the acidity levels are still too high at our preferred picking stage that we have to leave it out there a bit longer before we pick, unlike our other wines where we err on slightly lighter alcohols to retain freshness and perfumed fruit. These are nuances we have yet to fully master.’ Leliefontein in Wellington is home to the Bosman family, who also own Bosman Adama, the largest vine nursery in Africa MORE FROM THE MED At Dornier, mentioned previously, another Spanish variety that has taken time to master is Tempranillo, the noble Dornier’s former owner, the late Swiss artist Christoph Dornier, had a passion for architecture, as the estate’s landmark cellar demonstrates WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 119
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CHAMPAGNE, WHERE STYLE IS EVERYTHIN
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CONTENTS - COLUMNS • REPORTS - 8
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EDITORIAL - PHILIPPE GAILLARD - Edi
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Cavavin N°46_Mise en page 1 27/11/
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PERFECT HARMONY - CIGARS AND CAPE B
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Reserve wines
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - an opportunity
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TASTING TASTING — RARE BOTTLE —
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - some oddities.
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Mathilda Tedes
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - WINTER 2021 GI
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Odilon de Vari
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CHAMPAGNE - STYLES - Nicollas Vall
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MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR W
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Château
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Olivier Rouquet at Isolette RHONE V
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - Edouard G
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RHONE VALLEY - BLENDING - appellati
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VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - Harve
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VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - repre
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VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - even
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VINS DE FRANCE - INNOVATION - DOMAI
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Sweeping vistas of the Tour Castill
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BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - taken, none of
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A hot-air balloon display at Châte
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BORDEAUX - TRAVEL - Sébastien Mont
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BORDEAUX BORDEAUX - WINE GROWER POR
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“The most important thing is to h
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CIDERS - DISCOVERY - In the west of
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CIDERS - DISCOVERY - in Normandy. E
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Michel Legallois in his cider works
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CIDERS - DISCOVERY - Dominique Le B
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HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - The desicca
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Page 69 and 70: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Vivien Ujv
Page 71 and 72: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Brother and
Page 73 and 74: HUNGARY - RENAISSANCE - Zoltán Dem
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Page 79 and 80: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - in terms of c
Page 81 and 82: SPAIN - DESIGNATION - RAMON CANALS
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Page 85 and 86: PORTUGAL - MARKETS - José Luis Oli
Page 87 and 88: Casa Santos Lima’s vineyards with
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Page 97 and 98: ITALY - DISCOVERY - Podere Don Cata
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Page 105 and 106: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - Serena Wi
Page 107 and 108: ITALY - NEW APPELLATION - The Manza
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Page 111 and 112: The South African viticultural land
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Page 121 and 122: STARS - & WINE - Courteney Cox: “
Page 123 and 124: CONTACT - DETAILS - CIGARS - PAGES
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Page 127 and 128: FRANCE - Champagne PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_
Page 129 and 130: FRANCE - Champagne CHAMPAGNE RÉMI
Page 131 and 132: FRANCE - Champagne Dom Caudron’s
Page 133 and 134: SPAIN - Catalonia SPAIN OUR WINTER
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Page 137 and 138: 1 06/12/2021 10:00 Page 2 ITALY - V
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