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SOUTH AFRICA
– NEW VARIETIES –
Roussanne is among the Rhône grapes planted
at Riebeeksriver for Anthonij Rupert’s Cape
of Good Hope range
Winemaker Clarise Sciocatti-Langeveldt
A
mere five grape varieties account for over
54% of all plantings in South Africa (SA),
namely Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz (in
that order). The top 10, including Chardonnay,
Pinotage, Merlot, Ruby Cabernet and Cinsault, account for
over 86% of plantings, according to SA Wine Industry
Information & Systems (SAWIS). However, there are
over 100 varieties planted and while some seem destined
to remain very niche, such as Austria’s Grüner Veltliner
(produced by Diemersdal in Durbanville and Neil Joubert
in Stellenbosch) or Germany’s Sylvaner (first bottled in
1971 at Stellenbosch estate Overgaauw, the 2020 vintage
scoring 87 points in the Gilbert & Gaillard International
Challenge), some are really gaining currency as growers
realise which ‘cultivars’ are best suited to local climatic
conditions and soil types.
Historically, the SA viticultural landscape is
overwhelmingly French, from the Loire’s Chenin Blanc
to the Bordeaux grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon
Blanc and Merlot in the top 10, with Semillon at number
13 (having once been SA’s most widely planted grape by
far) followed by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec
in 15 th , 16 th and 18 th place respectively. In 12 th place,
Burgundy’s ‘heartbreak grape’ Pinot Noir has found a
home in cooler areas, such as the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
and Elgin, but in recent years SA producers have looked
more to the Rhône.
In 2007, for example, Franschhoek-based Anthonij Rupert
Wines purchased the Swartland farm Riebeeksrivier with
the express aim of growing Rhône grapes on shale
soils reminiscent of the Côte Rôtie. Syrah, Carignan,
Cinsault, Durif, Grenache Noir, Marsanne, Mourvèdre
and Roussanne are among the varieties planted, with
the Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2018
(50% Marsanne, 36% Roussanne, 13% Chenin and 1%
Viognier) scoring 90 points. When it comes to singlevarietal
bottlings, Stellenbosch wine farm Hazendal
sources Roussanne from a vineyard next to the Berg River
near Franschhoek, saying that the alluvial soils and large
white rocks create ideal conditions for slow ripening and
flavour preservation (88 points for the 2018 vintage).
Hazendal also produces a rare single-varietal Carignan
(87 points for the 2017): ‘When given the opportunity
to truly show itself, Carignan shines brightly as a wine
112 WINTER 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE