GG_N43_COMPLET_FRA-WEB

THE LAFFITTE BROTHERS,

THE GASCON DREAM TEAM

Spring 2021

SPRING 2021

TOP PICKS FROM

FRANCE

PAGES 115 TO 122

On the left Sébastien, viticulturist,

with Christophe, the winemaker

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS

– COLUMNS • REPORTS –

10

50 74

94

7 NEWS

10 WINE ROUTE

On the Gilbert & Gaillard wine route in South-West France

24 REGION

How Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages are

coping with the global turmoil

34 CHAMPAGNE - FUTURE

New-wave winegrowers with existing or freshly-minted

brands

42 GRAPES

42 Has the death knell sounded for Bordeaux Merlot?

50 Pinot noir shows its true colours

58 FRENCH EXPERTISE

Artisanal fruit brandies – quintessential French

craftsmanship

66 SPAIN - REGION

The Monastrell grape stakes its claim

74 PORTUGAL - SUCCESS STORY

Wineries taking on the future

82 DISCOVERY

Asti Docg and Moscato d’Asti Docg in the past, present

and future

93 UNITED KINGDOM - IMPORTER

Boutinot Wines: “A business built on great people

and fantastic quality”

94 WINE GROWER PORTRAIT

Schenk Group: From Switzerland to the world

100 SOUTH AFRICA - DISCOVERY

Off the beaten track

108 SOUTH AFRICA - PORTRAIT

Gateway to the Swartland

111 STARS & WINE

Stanley Tucci: A lover of wine and Italy

113 CONTACT DETAILS

115 TASTING

Our TOP WINES for Spring 2021

GILBERT & GAILLARD NEXT ISSUE SUMMER 2021

Cover: Courtesy of the estates

SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 3

EDITORIAL

– FRANÇOIS GILBERT –

Editorial Director

THE EVER-FASHIONABLE ASTI AND MOSCATO D’ASTI

Such has been the Prosecco phenomenon over the last decade

that it is easy to forget that one name – or wine – has encapsulated

the flavour of Italy for almost a hundred years: Asti! Located in

Piedmont, and demarcated in 1932, it extends across the provinces

of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo, and is now divided into two related

appellations: Moscato d’Asti Docg and Asti Docg.

These have always been wines for celebration, grown in incredible

vineyards that follow the contour of the hills. The area is home to

unique scenery that you will not find in any other Italian region.

It also boasts a huge ‘garden’ of Moscato vines, covering almost

10,000 hectares, with slopes that can have staggering inclines of

over 50%.

Moscato d’Asti is a natural semi-sparkling wine, while Asti is a

sparkling wine, but both of them benefit from the incredible

aromatic spectrum of their shared grape variety, with suggestions of

wisteria, lime, peach, apricot and notes of sage and orange blossom

to name a few. These are gentle wines and their low alcohol content

allows them to resonate with the mood of the day. 85 million

bottles are produced annually, divided between some 50 million of

Asti and 35 million of Moscato d’Asti. 85% of output is exported,

providing irrefutable proof of their success. These are most definitely

wines to look out for without further ado!

4 SPRING 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL

– PHILIPPE GAILLARD –

Editorial Director

SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST SECRET WINE ROUTES

Like France, whose flagship is Bordeaux, and the USA, primarily

spearheaded by Californian wines, South Africa’s wine regions are often

reduced to the historic Constantia and the tourist hotspot Stellenbosch,

or even – more recently – to the ‘revolutionary’ newcomer, Swartland.

But if I were to say Piekenierskloof, Cape Agulhas or Plettenberg Bay,

would you be able to pinpoint the country I am suggesting you travel to?

Probably not! The Western Cape boasts a thousand valleys, windswept

bays and highlands with a fairly unfamiliar continental climate. Despite

their picturesque charm, they tend to remain under the wine tourist’s

radar. That’s precisely what makes this country so attractive, as it remains

extremely unspoilt and never ceases to amaze both locals and tourists!

It is also an opportunity to meet unconventional winegrowers with

strong personalities, and to taste grape varieties other than the traditional

Pinotage and Chenin, such as Mourvèdre, Pinot noir, Sauvignon blanc

or even Merlot.

And last but not least, it is a chance to grant oneself the incredible

luxury, considering our current pandemic-induced limitations, to forget

some of the worries of everyday life, to take the less trodden (wine)

routes and to immerse oneself in the unspoilt natural surroundings

that South Africa still offers. These are incredible places, where steep

mountains, polo fields, springboks, cows, zebras... and even elephants,

can live together side by side! You won’t regret it, that’s for sure!


EDITORIAL

– SYLVAIN PATARD –

Editor in Chief

THE REVIVAL OF MONASTRELL

Originating in the Spanish region of Levante, the red grape variety

Monastrell has for some years asserted its ability to produce high quality red

wines, as well as interesting rosés. Also known as Mourvèdre and Mataró,

it can be found in places as far and wide apart as Australia, California and

Provence, where it has achieved ultimate fame in the Bandol appellation.

Unlike other native varieties such as Tempranillo or Verdejo, Monastrell’s

rise to prominence has been a long time coming and it took many years

for it to shed its image as a ‘minor’ winegrape. Long underestimated, it was

often vinted without all the due consideration it requires, producing high

alcohol content, formidable tannins and oxidative characters that really did

it no favours. It seemed to be doomed to be constantly upstaged by other

varietals. But today, lower alcohol content and improved phenolic ripeness

allow it to fully reveal the qualities of a premier and highly characterful

grape variety. The work and sustained attention of winegrowers convinced

of its potential has played a large part in this. Over the last two decades in

particular, the ‘Levant’ grape variety has garnered genuine acclaim due to the

beautifully crafted wines grown in the Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and

Utiel-Requena designations of origin.

These regions have an incredible advantage – they are home to high altitude

vineyards with significant diurnal shifts, which are well suited to the local

grape variety Monastrell. Provided with these conditions, it not only ripens

well but can also reveal the quality of its vineyard sites.


Cavavin N°43_Mise en page 1 30/03/2021 16:33 Page 1

NEWS

Château du

COING DE SAINT-FIACRE

2018

Château

SAINT-LAGER

2019

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie

Brouilly

FOUR

WINEMAKERS

FOR

€ 9.60*

Stéphane MORIN

CAVAVIN GUÉRANDE

1 bis, Faubourg Sainte-Anne

44350 GUÉRANDE

( +33 2 40 24 96 55

Domaine BELLIER

La Girouette 2019

€ 9.90*

François BIGNON

CAVAVIN PARIS 01

18, rue du Roule

75001 PARIS

( +33 1 42 86 94 62

CHÂTEAU D’OLLIÈRES

Classique 2019

SPRING

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Cheverny

€ 7.80*

Nathalie GARNIER

CAVAVIN VERSAILLES

86, rue de La Paroisse

78000 VERSAILLES

( +33 1 39 51 83 12

Coteaux Varois en Provence

€ 10.30*

Loïc L’HARIDON

CAVAVIN TOULON

5, rue Henri Seillon

83000 TOULON

( +33 4 94 63 71 84

* Retail price including sales tax

Hardy Cognac has unveiled its Winter decanter, dressed with a spectacular Lalique

crystal tiara. This is the latest addition to its Four Seasons collection

and stems from its successful collaboration with France’s iconic

crystal manufacturer. One of the decanter’s distinctive features is its

sculpted ice-blue stopper epitomising the dormant vine as the

first frosts occur. It offers a striking contrast with the warm hue

of the Cognac, a blend of six one-hundred-year-old Grandes

Champagnes selected by Armand Hardy between the two

world wars. This exceptional blend comes unfortunately

(or fortunately?) in finite quantities: only 400 pieces of this

treasure are available in 70 or 75 cl formats.

And for those who wish to complete, or begin, the Four

Seasons collection, a few bottles of Spring, Summer and

Autumn are still available by request only.

Tel.: +33 5 45 82 97 41 - www.hardycognac.fr

HARDYcognac -

Winter’s finally here!

hardycognacofficial

Hardy Anthony - OFFICIAL HASHTAG #hardycognacofficial - www.lalique.com

ERRATUM: In the article on the Médoc, in issue n°42, we gave the wrong internet details for Château Haut Couloumey.

If you want to follow the estate’s news, check them out at @hautcouloumey on Facebook.


NEWS

Food/drink pairings:

HandSomm answers all your questions

What is HandSomm? The largest online database,

available free of charge. Your SOMMelier in

your hand!

Does drinking the ‘right wine’ really make a difference

when enjoying food? Experience shows that humans

everywhere across the globe perceive the flavours and

textures of foods and drinks better when they are paired

well. A cold white meat with mayonnaise has a very similar

texture to a fat white wine. Tasting them together makes

people happy! With a strawberry tart, an overripe Chenin

blends deliciously with the sugar and relative acidity of the

fruit. The same goes for vanilla custard.

Who is behind HandSomm? Just two friends who have

been working on it for more than 10 years: Pierre Le

Moullac, former director of the 3-star Michelin Ambroisie

restaurant in Paris; and sommelier and computer scientist

Alain Echalier.

What does it feature? Comments on pairings, including

some regional examples; descriptions of drinks, tips, recipes,

cheeses... Each recipe has been tested, some of them many

times. The scope covers dishes currently enjoyed in France,

like beef bourguignon, onion soup, Big Mac and sashimi.

All the French wine appellations are listed, as well as ciders

and bars. And beers are in the pipeline...

Any last words of advice? HandSomm was designed as a

WebApp. You can use it with your smartphone or tablet.

Watch the demo first, then have fun!

www.HandSomm.com

La Forêt Blanche Winery: A taste for modernity in Judea

The La Forêt Blanche winery is located

in an agricultural co-operative village

called the Citadel of Judea (Metzadot-

Yehuda), north of the Yatir Forest, in the

historic Mount Hebron region where wine

has been made for 3,000 years. The land

forms the historical and spiritual connection

and is an integral part of the soul of the La

Forêt Blanche winery run by Jacques Bris

(CEO), Bruno Darmon (winemaker) and

Menachem Livni (winegrower).

The company’s philosophy is that the aroma

and taste of a fine wine should reflect its

terroir. The wines are therefore made from noble grape

varieties using rigorous, precision techniques and only

environmentally-friendly products to protect the natural

surroundings of the vineyard. The distinctive climate of

the Judean Mountains – with their extreme summer heat,

ice-cold winter and a diurnal temperature

shift of up to 20°C – imbues the grapes

with complex flavours and aromas. The

conditions are particularly conducive to

growing Cabernet-Sauvignon, Petit Verdot,

Shiraz and Pinot Noir.

Though it has been in operation for several

years, it is still a young winery and launched

its first wines in Israel and international

markets a year ago. We tasted them recently

and enjoyed them a great deal. The 6 labels

garnered scores ranging from 88/100 to

93/100 for the 2017 Ya’Ar Levanon, a single

varietal Cabernet-Sauvignon. This is a modern wine whose

primary feature is to offer enjoyment. It’s an absolute

must-try!

La Forêt Blanche Winery: +972 54 661 9899

https://lfbwinery.com/


THE GILBERT & GAILLARD INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE:

MAKE SOME ROOM IN YOUR LOUNGE FOR WINE

REGIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

FRANCE

SPAIN

ITALY

SOUTH AFRICA

THE LAFFITTE BROTHERS,

THE GASCON DREAM TEAM

MURVIEDRO:

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

WITH MONASTRELL

SPRING 2021

TOP PICKS FROM

SPAIN

PAGES 115 TO 122

SCHENK GROUP

FROM

SWITZERLAND

TO THE WORLD

Roberta Deflorian, Sales & Marketing

Director for Schenk Italian Wineries

SOUTH AFRICA:

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

SPRING 2021

TOP PICKS FROM

ITALY

PAGES 115 TO 122

SPRING 2021

TOP PICKS FROM

FRANCE

PAGES 115 TO 122

On the left Sébastien, viticulturist,

with Christophe, the winemaker

Spring 2021

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD

Juan José Muñoz,

the Technical Director

at Murviedro

Spring 2021

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD

Spring 2021

SPRING 2021

TOP PICKS FROM

SOUTH AFRICA

PAGES 115 TO 122

Marinda Kruger-Claassen,

business manager/winemaker

at Elgin Vintners

Spring 2021

L 19045 - 43 - F: 7,95 € - RD

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Mas des Combes has 34 hectares under vine, mostly planted to

indigenous grape varieties Braucol, Duras and Prunelard for the reds,

and Mauzac and Loin de l’oeil for the whites

SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

ON THE GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE ROUTE

in South-West France

At one end of the scale are the red wines of Cahors, on the other the sweet whites

of Monbazillac. Between the two is a plethora of wine styles that are as refined and

varied as the local gastronomy. Bergerac, Madiran, Gaillac, Fronton, Pacherenc

du Vic-Bilh and Saint-Mont – the appellations of South-West France showcase their

native grape varieties. Take a trip away from the well-trodden wine routes and meet

the growers who push the boundaries with Tannat, Malbec and Braucol. From the

co-operative wineries to the independent producers, we are taking you on an allnew

wine route across South-West France to meet our favourite local producers.

By Alexandra Reveillon – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Fabien Castaing is the fifth generation at the helm of the family-run

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy

Bordeaux. End of the line. Everyone off.

Leave the vineyards of Gironde behind

you. Just this once, we suggest you head

west, then south. First stop, Bergerac,

to the home of Fabien Castaing. For

five generations, his family has been

producing Monbazillac, Bergerac and Côtes de Bergerac

at Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy. After a few hours

travelling across the Périgord and Quercy Blanc regions,

Cahors rolls out its medieval bridge and vineyards.

The town, in the heart of the South-West, is where

the Vinovalie co-operative group has one of its four

wineries and one of its châteaux, Les Bouysses, though

its most iconic property is a few hundred kilometres to

the south, in Gaillac. After a detour through the mustvisit

citadel of Cordes-sur-Ciel, we stop off at Mas des

Combes belonging to Rémi and Nathalie Larroque in

Gaillac, for one of their aperitif-cum-concert events.

After a night in Toulouse, it’s time to travel to the other

side of the ‘pink city’ and into the Pyrenean foothills

for a stop-over in Plaisance or Saint-Mont, in one of

Plaimont’s six wineries, followed by a visit to Alain


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Brumont in Madiran. The last place on the tour is Ayzieu,

at Christophe and Sébastien Laffitte’s, who swapped

Armagnac for Côtes de Gascogne, before we head back

to Bordeaux. These few days offer a guaranteed change of

scenery and the chance to meet many interesting people.

Here’s a little taster.

Convinced of the benefits of organic farming since he

took over Château Les Mailleries in 2016, Fabien Castaing

has chosen to convert all of his farm

Although grape varieties like Malbec and Sauvignon gris are in a minority in

Bergerac, these unexpected varieties give Moulin-Pouzy’s wines character

STAGE 1: BERGERAC

INNOVATION AND EXPERTISE AT

DOMAINE DE MOULIN-POUZY

Being the fifth generation of a winegrowing family

and innovating are not mutually exclusive, as Fabien

Castaing illustrates to perfection. At the helm of familyrun

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy since 2008, Castaing

is constantly thinking outside the box. His latest

releases are his sulphite-free red Bergerac and his 100%

Sauvignon Gris orange wine, both of them testifying to

his entrepreneurial spirit. Although these latest additions

are made on a boutique scale, Castaing approaches his

entire range with the same inquisitive spirit. In 2016,

he bought Château Les Mailleries, renowned for its

limestone, flint and clay soils to the south of Bergerac.

It was love at first sight and it allowed him to discover

the benefits of farming organically and the value of

the region’s slightly under-the-radar grape varieties

such as Malbec and Sauvignon Gris. “Malbec produces

much more opulent reds”, he explains. “Sauvignon gris

accounts for 70% of the blend at Les Mailleries. It’s very

unusual and enables us to craft high-end white styles”.

Moulin-Pouzy may not have the same soil types but that

didn’t stop Castaing from introducing theses varieties

there a few years ago to add a new dimension to his

AOC Bergerac, Côtes de Bergerac and Monbazillac.

Malbec imparts his 95% Merlots with a silky structure.

“These are wines driven by super ripe fruit. Malbec gives

them a bit of body”, he stresses. Under the influence

of global warming, his sweet and noble-rot wines have

seen their alcohol content increase in recent years, but


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Vinovalie boasts around fifteen chateaux, including Château Les Bouysses in Cahors,

which will become one of the group’s wine tourism destinations over the next few years

compromising the ripeness and aromatic expression of

the fruit is not an option. Introducing Sauvignon Gris

and Ugni Blanc has therefore been a game-changer.

“They add freshness and acidity, reinstating the style

of wines we produced twenty years ago”.

Fabien Castaing’s keenness to innovate can be seen

in his recently-built cellar door facilities, designed

to welcome private customers. He has given himself

two years to develop wine tourism experiences by

opening a gîte and introducing activity trails. Sensing

a change in consumer trends, in spring 2021 he joined

the digital revolution, launching his own e-commerce

website. Standing still is something Castaing is

incapable of – he even ventured into the American

market in 2020, right in the midst of the Covid crisis.

“And it’s doing pretty good”, he smiles.

STAGE 2: CAHORS

VINOVALIE IS PLAYING AT HOME, IN CAHORS,

FRONTON AND GAILLAC

Solidarity, mutual aid, team spirit... that Vinovalie’s

values should resonate with those of rugby, a staple of

South-West France, is no accident. Here, the concept

of group becomes highly significant – Vinovalie


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

One of South-West France’s juggernauts, the co-operative winery and

chateau group Vinovalie accounts for 25% of AOC Cahors,

57% of Fronton and 36% of Gaillac

represents 4 co-operative wineries, around fifteen estates

and châteaux and 400 winegrowers united under the

same banner since 2006. A leading producer of AOC

Fronton and Cahors and the powerhouse of AOC Gaillac,

Vinovalie has scored many points. Admittedly, it took no

chances: with the support of a panel of experts, it focused

on its Tarani range to ensure broad consumer appeal and

therefore tap into a variety of export markets. Its game

plan? To produce wines that are fruity, aromatic and easy

to drink made from international grape varieties. “This

is a critical cue in foreign markets”, notes Sandra Ferral,

Vinovalie’s export director. “In France, appellations and

provenance hold pride of place, but in export markets

the varietal is key. In Australia, for example, the wines

are classified according to the varieties used”. The group

has a presence in the United Kingdom, Japan and the

Netherlands in particular, but it aims to conquer the

United States and Russia in years to come.

Although the Tarani label has become Vinovalie’s calling

card, the group has not forgotten the driver of its

collective strength: its diversity. Its four co-operative

wineries produce niche wines that showcase local grape

varieties, such as Malbec and Negrette. The 4,000 hectare,

HVE-certified vineyard controlled by the group has 10%

of its area farmed organically. The chateaux and estates

“are run as independent properties”, stresses Ferral. Some,

like Château de Tauziès in Gaillac, provide exposure for

the expertise of Vinovalie’s winegrowers by offering

hotel experiences surrounded by vineyards. Chateaux

Les Bouysses, in Cahors and Marguerite, in Fronton, will

likely go down the same route in a few years’ time.

Nathalie Larroque welcomes visitors to the winery at Mas des Combes,

where she also holds aperitif-cum-concerts,

weather and the health situation permitting

STAGE 3: GAILLAC

WELCOME TO MAS DES COMBES

At Mas des Combes, wine is a family affair. Rémi Larroque

embodies the fifteenth generation of winegrowers at the

helm of the estate he inherited from his parents. With

help from his wife Nathalie, he farms 34 hectares of


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

In Gaillac, Rémi Larroque and his wife Nathalie produce red and white wines, as well as an ancestral method sparkling wine,

all of them matured in stainless steel

vines in the heart of the Gaillac appellation, where

he has set out to raise the profile of native grape

varieties. Braucol - also known as Fer Servadou - Duras

and Prunelard thus spearhead the reds, blended with

Merlot, which softens the tannins, and Syrah, which

helps round out the wines. With its crimson hue tinged

with purplish-blue and nose of spices, liquorice and

black fruit, Coteaux d’Oustry is without doubt the finest

example of Rémi Larroque’s craftsmanship. Matured

entirely in tanks, like all the estate’s wines, it reveals a

full and fleshy palate that testifies to the winegrower’s

penchant for ripe and candied fruit. For the whites,

Mauzac and Loin de l’œil (len de l’el) are the basis

for Rémi Larroque’s dry and sweet wines, though he


Nearly 800 families of winegrowers craft the character of Plaimont wines,

many of them showcasing local grape varieties suited to the climate and

soils of the Pyrenean foothills

SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Plaimont is a group of 5 main wineries and a dozen chateaux, including Château de Cassaigne,

located in the heart of IGP Côtes de Gascogne

also makes a single varietal Mauzac sparkling wine

using the ‘ancestral method’. Made with no dosage, its

effervescence stems from its residual sugars.

Mas des Combes has been selling its wines to the

American, Canadian and Swedish markets since 2018,

but saw its export sales come to a standstill due to

the pandemic. The vast majority of its wines, though,

are sold in the domestic market, to wine merchants,

supermarkets, wholesalers and private customers. The

public is welcomed to the estate every summer, where

Nathalie Larroque hosts an aperitif-cum-concert event

in front of the winery. Apparently, people have even

been known to try out their dance steps, and hopefully

will be able to do so again once the situation gets back

to normal.

STAGE 4: PLAISANCE

BETWEEN PLAISANCE AND SAINT-MONT,

PLAIMONT NURTURES ITS ROOTS

Forget the image of the multinational corporation filling

bottles without knowing what it puts in them. Plaimont


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Mixed farming was long the norm at Château Bouscassé,

before vines became the primary crop

may well be one of France’s 5 largest co-operative

wineries for still wines, producing 30 to 35 million

bottles a year, it is not about to forget its roots or the

personality of its winegrowers. Founded more than forty

years ago, the co-operative group mainly extends over the

Gers department and a few neighbouring departments.

It currently has 5 main wineries and a dozen chateaux

spread over the Côtes de Gascogne, Saint-Mont, Madiran

and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh appellation areas. In all,

nearly 800 winegrower families craft the character of

Plaimont wines, placing particular emphasis on local

grape varieties, suited to the vineyard sites and weather

in the foothills of the Pyrenees. International varieties are

grown but remain in the minority and are mostly used to

enhance local cultivars. Yes, there is Sauvignon, but it is

blended with Colombard; Merlot, in small quantities, is

blended with Tannat. The Echo Indigo label, named after

the plant native to the region producing vibrant blue

dyes, is one such blend.

But the co-operative group’s primary strength is its ability

to supply big brands, whilst at the same time tailoring

bespoke labels, mastering micro-batch winemaking and

single vineyard selection to perfection, as evidenced

by its pre-phylloxera wine. Made from Tannat vines

over 200 years old planted on fawn sands that survived

phylloxera and have come down through the centuries,

only a few thousand bottles are made and utmost care

and attention is lavished on them. Visitors to Plaimont

can see this attention to detail themselves by following

the guided tours held in each of the wineries. Unless, that

is, they prefer to slip into the shoes of a winemaker for a

few hours and indulge in a bit of blending.

The influence of the mountains and the Pyrenean foothills are

encapsulated in the wines of Alain Brumont, who claims to make

‘landscape’ wines

STAGE 5: MADIRAN

MADIRAN, THE REALMS OF ALAIN BRUMONT

No stop to Madiran would be complete with a mention

of Alain Brumont. For nearly 40 years, he has been

taking Tannat to new heights, producing wines that are


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

For nearly 40 years, Alain Brumont has allowed Tannat to shine, producing wines that are

delicate yet powerful, complex and harmonious

both refined and powerful, complex and harmonious.

However, his story was not a foregone conclusion: when

he left school at the age of 15 to help his father, the

family estate had just 17 hectares of vines. Mixed farming

was the norm here, as it was for most of the local farms.

For fifteen years or so, Alain Brumont walked and worked

the land, getting a handle on the diversity of vineyard

sites across the foothills of the Pyrenees, and gradually

reined in the wild Tannat. Up until that point, Madiran’s

king of grape varieties was rarely tamed. It was mainly

drunk as a jug wine, and maturation had yet to become

common practice. By the end of the 1970s, the young

grower was ready to make a go of it alone. Using different

exposures to the sunshine, grape varieties and vineyard

sites, he created a style and flavour that made a huge

contribution to Madiran’s global success.


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Long drunk as jug wines, Madiran gradually switched to bottles, primarily under the

influence of Alain Brumont

Forget wines that only reach their peak after a couple of decades. Alain Brumont has

successfully established his style and produces wines that are both powerful yet also

accessible when young

Since then, Alain and Laurence Brumont have constantly sought to push

the envelope, going ever further in their quest to produce more precise

and accomplished wines, like their Château Bouscassé, a blend of

Tannat, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, displaying a deep hue

with garnet tints. Its nose of stewed fruit unfurls notes of undergrowth,

and complex aromatic expression that achieves harmony on the palate.

Its power and finesse are the counterpoints to supple body and silky

tannins, and they illustrate the quality of the Brumonts’ work. Alain

Brumont is a visionary and as such, he was one of the first to become

involved in wine tourism in the region. Visitors can explore the diversity

of Châteaux Montus and Bouscassé on foot or by bike, soaking up their


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

At the Laffittes, wines are designed in unison. Sébastien is the viticulturist, whilst

Christophe is tasked with winemaking

The Laffitte family produced Armagnac for many years. Although the younger

generation prefers to make wine, Christophe and Sébastien still produce a few dozen

bottles every year

incredible character and discovering the connections between wine, oak

trees and local gastronomy. And that’s one experience not to be missed!

STAGE 6: AYZIEU

HOW THE LAFFITTE BROTHERS WORK IN UNISON

On one side is Sébastien, viticulturist; on the other, Christophe, the

winemaker. For the Laffitte brothers, wine is all about working in

unison. Since they took over the family-owned Côtes de Gascogne

estate in 2003, the two winegrowers have breathed new life into

the property, which long focused entirely on producing Armagnac.

Although their parents had already set their sights squarely on wine,


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

The Laffitte brothers make it their mission to provide fruity,

everyday wines for pleasure

it was not until the new generation came along that the

wines were bottled, and that four different ranges were

established and marketed in equal shares in France and

overseas.

The fresh, fruity and easy-drinking wines crafted by the

Laffitte brothers are light years away from the hackneyed

image of heady wines from South-West France. In their

book, enjoyment is an absolute priority. The range

embraces dry and sweet whites, reds and rosés labelled

Petit Gascoûn and Domaine Laffitte and honours local

grape varieties, spearheaded by Colombard, Tannat and

Manseng. Planted on the fawn sand soils typical of Bas-

Armagnac, the vines produce light wines, with alcohol

content coming in at no more than 12%. Sébastien and

Christophe Laffitte nurture freshness in their wines – they

opt for night harvesting to preserve the integrity of the

fruit; and use extended ageing in stainless steel tanks to

give the wines time to fully develop their aromas. Made

from Colombard and Ugni blanc, their IGP Côtes de

Gascogne Le Petit Gascoûn label is the best example of

their approach. Its pale yellow colour is mingled with


SOUTH WEST

– WINE ROUTE –

Planted on the fawn sand soils typical of Bas-Armagnac, the vines at Domaine Laffitte produce

light wines with an ABV no higher than 12%

light green reflections. Its remarkable nose of citrus and

white fruits reveals fresh touches of menthol and spices.

The attack on the palate is tense and underpinned by

pronounced lemon notes then flows into green pepper.

This is a mineral white wine, best enjoyed when young.

NO LACK OF PERSONALITIES TO MEET

Our journey has reached its end. Far removed from all

the clichés, the wines of South-West France bring together

myriad local grape varieties with strong characters that

reveal an incredible aromatic spectrum. In this land of

tradition, producers do not shy away from international

grape varieties, blending them with their native grapes to

craft wines that are enjoyed from Los Angeles to Tokyo,

London and Brussels. Wine was long considered a minor

art in the complex balance of mixed farming, but it has

now acquired its pedigree. The region’s winegrowers

have had to learn how to position wine as an essential

piece of the puzzle of success, one that combines values,

gastronomy, lifestyle and innovation. And there is no

doubt that their gamble has paid off.


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Fields of lavender in the southern Rhone Valley in the Provence part of Drome

HOW CÔTES DU RHÔNE AND CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES

are coping with the global turmoil

From lockdown to the closure of bars and restaurants due to Covid;

from the competitive disadvantage of Trump taxes to the downturn in China;

and of course Brexit, 2020 had a significant impact on world trade and the French wine

industry. Players in the northern and southern Rhone Valley proved to be proactive.

They share their experiences and concerns with Gilbert & Gaillard.

By Christelle Zamora - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - ©M. Chapoutier - ©EPerrin


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Wine grower and negociant Michel Chapoutier who leads the way for organic winegrowing

and has pioneered biodynamics in the northern Rhone Valley

From Hermitage hill, where Michel Chapoutier has one

of the most scenic viewpoints in the northern Rhone

valley, the region’s undisputed leader of organic and

biodynamic winegrowing is furious. He knows only too

well how serious the consequences of the Airbus-Boeing

dispute and consequential Trump taxes are for the entire

French wine and spirits industry. 2020 was not just the year of the

pandemic, it also revealed the impact of the 25% additional duties

slapped on French wines under 14% ABV in containers under

2 litres in October 2019. Since 12 January 2021, the taxes have

been extended to include all still wines and wine-based spirits,

which will make an even bigger dent in sales for 2021.

FROM TRUMP TAXES TO BREXIT

“The decision by the US administration to apply punitive tariffs in

retaliation for subsidies improperly paid to Airbus is both unfair

and unacceptable to the wine industry*. Our strategy involved

both anticipation and staying in the public eye. We exported wines

before the tax was made official, and maintained our links with the

United States. But the Americans don’t like to pay taxes, and we felt

that customers were avoiding French wines in the US. So we had

to slash our margins by 8 to 12%”, claims Chapoutier. Winemaker

Simon Gauthier at Domaine de la Présidente in Vaucluse realised

that the drop in prices put his estate in direct competition with the

likes of Guigal and Chapoutier.

* The Biden administration recently suspended the tariffs for a four-month period


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Maison Chapoutier’s famous Le Pavillon designated vineyard in the Ermitage

appellation on the left bank of the Rhone. The vineyard covers 4 hectares on

Hermitage hill and boasts very specific soils

For smaller estates, sales remained dynamic in the first

quarter of 2020. “But orders shipped at the beginning

of the year generated lower sales in export markets, the

market stalled and restocking did not materialise in June.

In the United States, we cut our margins by 10% and

importers refocused on their long-standing suppliers.

Listings were put on hold”, says Marty Echerei, sales

manager for Domaine Lucien Tramier. Although it is

refocusing on the French and European market, Domaine

Lucien Tramier has not lost sight of the American market,

which it has been canvassing for the past two years. In the

future, it intends to reinvest in the East and then the West

coast of the United States.

Rhone Valley wines have declined by 17% in volume

and 23% in value in the American market, their leading

export market. The disruption has favoured the British

market, which ranked first just as Brexit came into force.

Although the United Kingdom exited the European Union

in January 2020, concerns about additional customs

or import duties have been allayed, offering guarantees

of a level playing field. Obviously, Brexit comes with

administrative and customs formalities, but the extra red

tape, whilst a hindrance to trade flows, does not seem to

be penalising exports. At the time of writing, the market for

Rhone wines in the UK has surged by 14%.

Some wineries that had not be working with the British

market have broken new ground online through formats

such as 37.5 cl bottles. Domaine des Gravennes, which

farms 30 hectares in the southern part of Drome and

exports 30% of its wines, is a case in point. “We didn’t

really have a presence in England but during lockdown, a

market opened up through development of online sales”,

recounts Luc Bayon de Noyer.

Lucien Tramier’s vineyard in Jonquières, Vaucluse

BOOMING OR COMPLEX MARKETS

When he became chairman of Inter Rhône in November

2020, Philippe Pellaton suggested the industry promote

Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Villages and the region’s

Crus. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château Sixtine exports

95% of its wines. For its owner Jean-Marc Diffonty, who

saw a third of his exports in the category, i.e. 70,000 bottles,

wiped out, the Côtes du Rhône appellations will be the

hardest hit by the Trump taxes. Despite Côtes du Rhône


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des Gravennes near Suze-la-Rousse

in southern Drome

sales falling then coming to a standstill, however, he has

stocked up on wines at good prices in order to be ready as

soon as the tax-burdened market recovers.

He also points to forecasts for rising sales in some Northern

European markets, particularly Sweden. Countries with state

monopolies such as Norway and Canada are performing

well. Fortunately, across export markets, the estate’s wines

are sold via digital platforms where sales are booming, says

Diffonty.

In China, export volumes of French wines have declined

(-28% vs. 2019). “The market has become more complex.

We’ve been working there for 5 years, and we’re 6 months

behind in sales”, says Luc Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des

Gravennes. “In the Asian market, Gilbert & Gaillard medals

will come in extremely useful. Our importers require that

the medal sticker be displayed on the bottle because it is a

guarantee of professionalism and recognition for the Chinese

consumer”. Jean-Marc Diffonty concurs: “Currently, we can

no longer do without medals, they are a promotional tool for

our clients, particularly in Asian markets such as in Singapore.

The medal is a guarantee of constant quality that builds

customer loyalty”. And for the Château Sixtine winegrower, a

loyal customer is always better than an impulsive customer.


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Looking out over the vineyards of Domaine Saint-Etienne in Gard,

owned by Maison Chapoutier

Château de Grignan surrounded by fields of lavender

MEDALS ARE ESSENTIAL

In the French market, trade channels have evolved and new

consumption patterns have emerged. Maison Chapoutier,

which previously channelled many of its wines through

wine merchants and the hospitality industry has had to

reinvent itself. “The closure of cafés, hotels and restaurants

has led us to redirect our sales efforts towards private

customers, works councils, digital companies and internet

sales. Our sales in the hospitality industry, which usually

amount to €60 million, have fallen by just 9%”, stresses

Chapoutier.

There is no lack of initiative when it comes to regaining

French shelf space and become stronger than ever. Michel

Chapoutier, with his Gard estate Roc Folassières which

produces AOC Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône-

Villages, and Domaine Saint-Etienne also located on the

Gard side of the Rhone, both covering 30 hectares each,

feels that Gilbert & Gaillard medals are extremely useful

when it comes to gaining visibility in French supermarkets

and hypermarkets. “Our buyers are attentive to this

and aim to showcase medal-winning wines, improving

placement on the shelves”, he says.

At Domaine de la Presidente in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes

in Vaucluse, winemaker Simon Gauthier is delighted

with the quality of the 2020 vintage, but feels it’s an

understatement to say that marketing is a struggle. “The

gold medals for our Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône-

Villages will make us more at ease when exporting. The

medals are important for online sales, where comments by

guides and journalists are valued”, he explains.

Exports of wines from this 137-hectare estate remained

stable in the first quarter of 2020, but in the restaurant

industry, sales have fallen sharply and show a 70% loss

in revenue. “On the other hand, we increased cellar door

sales by 25%, but failed to fully tap into the very dynamic

wine merchant market, which grew by 30% over the

period. We have directed our sales efforts towards this

channel by approaching distributors such as Vinatis, Le

Petit Ballon and Plugwine but the trade-off was being able

to display medals which have a strong commercial impact

on access to these markets”. Going forward, Domaine de

la Présidente intends to prioritise the French and local

market in a more sustainable way.


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

At Domaine de Montine, welcoming visitors to the cellar door facilities is essential for developing wine tourism

WINE TOURISM IN SOUTHERN DROME

About twenty kilometres away, heading towards

Montélimar, Domaine de Montine in Grignan is doing

well. Jean-Luc Monteillet runs this family estate with his

brother. The estate only produces 480 hl of Côtes du

Rhône and 70 hl of Côtes du Rhône-Villages, focusing

primarily on AOC Grignan les Adhémar wines (2,347 hl

annually), and regional wines (IGP). Over the last ten

years, it has grown considerably and now extends over

70 hectares. Investments have been made in the winery

and the barrel cellar, followed by the establishment of

a restaurant and now a hotel (5 rooms), which is due to

open in 2021.

The estate also has 20 ha of lavender and 5 ha of truffle

oaks, adding to its appeal as a high-end wine tourism

destination. AOC Grignan les Adhémar wines are grown

on the northern edge of the southern Rhone valley and


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

The winery at Domaine de Montine in Grignan

have very little export coverage. The Côtes du Rhône

and Côtes du Rhône-Villages wines here benefit from

the renowned, scenic village of Grignan. Located on the

holiday route south - the celebrated Nationale 7 – the

chateau that once belonged to Madame de Sévigné is an

essential stop-over at the gateway to Provence. So here, the

focus is on tourism.

The village now has a Michelin-starred restaurant but

also an eclectic programme of cultural events (theatre,

writing, jazz). The local wine estates are buoyed by the

development of tourism and the events centring on wines,

truffles and books. “The reason why we didn’t suffer too

much from the health crisis, is because historically the

estate has a strong direct-to-consumer focus. Only 20%

of our revenue comes from exports and 40% from the

hospitality industry and wine merchants”, explains Jean-

Luc Monteillet. Domaine de Montine’s other USP lies in its

history – it is one of the oldest estates in Grignan.

“Usually we take part in about fifteen trade and public

fairs which have all been cancelled. Fortunately, the

summer season was outstanding with customers that

have a fondness for the local area returning. Many French,

Belgian, Swiss, German and English holidaymakers came

to taste our wines”. Grignan is unquestionably a jewel

in the Rhone wine route’s crown. Domaine de Montine

intends to fully capitalise on this and will once again

be planning dinners around truffles and wine, as well

as its horse-drawn carriage rides, all of which appeal

to an audience keen to awaken their senses. Over the

past 5 years, the estate has also been committed to the

HVE (High Environmental Value) certification process for

sustainable winegrowing.

Domaine de Montine provides sporting activities

CLEAN WINEGROWING, BUYING LOCAL

AND HOME DELIVERIES

This is another of Philippe Pellaton’s priorities. As the

current chair of regional marketing board Inter-Rhône, he

encourages wine producers to develop their sustainable

winegrowing credentials. Founded in 1912 in Jonquières,

Domaine Lucien Tramier has been a family estate for

4 generations. Its current owners are Lucien Tramier, the

founder’s grandson, and his son-in-law, Max Thomas.

Together, they perpetuate the heritage of this 40-hectare


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Jean-Luc Monteillet and his daughter Mélina

estate where vines grow on the clay-limestone soils of

Jonquières, in Vaucluse. Over the last 15 years, they have

developed sales of bottled wines and exports. In the

process of converting to organic, they intend to maximise

the potential of the endorsement in France and Europe,

where it is highly valued.

Their range includes wines for fun under the ‘Pitreries’

label of varietals, but also more serious Côtes du Rhône,

Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan-de-Dieu and the villagedesignated

appellation Cairanne. Although part of the

wines are still sold in bulk, 100,000 bottles are produced

under IGP Méditerranée, 15,000 bottles as Côtes du

Rhône and Côtes du Rhône-Villages and 6,700 bottles as

Cru Cairanne with its star-studded reputation.

Not far away, at the foot of Château de Suze-la-Rousse,

brothers Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer run the vineyard

at Domaine des Gravennes, set amidst lavender and truffle

oaks. Les Gravennes is a certified organic estate. “Our

parents’ ethos was always not to grow vines intensively

but to heed the call of nature”, recalls Luc, the younger

of the two brothers. “We have made it our mission to


Max Thomas and Lucien Tramier

RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –


RHONE VALLEY

– REGION –

Luc and Rémi Bayon de Noyer at Domaine des Gravennes

apply the principles of biodynamics and agro-ecology”. Their

philosophy is tangible in their six Côtes du Rhône and Côtes

du Rhône-Villages Suze-la-Rousse labels. These artisanal wines

are not sold in supermarkets. During the first lockdown, 35%

of the wines that are normally sold in the hospitality industry

and to wine merchants were immobilised. Their clientele of

restaurateurs is mostly concentrated in Paris, where many

fashionable, trailblazing outlets are located.

However, the brothers did not throw in the towel and

continued to expand their cellar door sales, local sales

and home deliveries. “During the first lockdown, we sent

e-mailings to our customers and provided free delivery on

orders of €300 and gave them a free bottle of wine. This

worked well for our private customers”, says Luc Bayon de

Noyer. When it came to the autumn and trade fairs were cancelled

again, wine merchants picked up the slack and sales

increased by 30% compared to previous vintages. “This time,

we developed short distribution channels. We had to reinvent

ourselves and secured listings with local organic shops”.


Vines at Côteaux-Vitryats

CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

NEW-WAVE WINEGROWERS

with existing or freshly-minted

brands

Can the smaller Champagne winegrowers and industry powerhouses make comfortable

bedfellows? Do the major producers and negociants leave room for anyone else?

Does climate change pose a critical threat? Seven properties that have risen to these

challenges provide the answers to our questions.

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - © Michel Jolyot


CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS -

NON-INTERVENTIONIST

When you are the third generation of a family producing

Champagne on the Montagne de Reims, do you even

consider doing anything else? Seven hectares of vines,

divided between Verzenay and Verzy, two Grand Cru

villages, provide enough income to support just one family.

So the agreement between Stéphane and his father was that

he would take over the business, when he turned 30.

In the meantime, his dream was to become a sommelier.

But the training was not what it is today, and so he decided

to learn the ropes differently. Ten years as a wine merchant

in Alsace gave him the opportunity to taste wines from

everywhere. As the land of fine dining, it also boosted

his appetite for good food – the two are inseparable.

He returned to his native region in 2001 and now farms

67 different vineyard plots! This extreme fragmentation,

which typifies small Champagne companies, has put a

curb on one of his ambitions, and that is to go organic.

He is convinced that this type of wine – particularly

biodynamic – has greater depth. In Verzenay, he says

he was the first to take a more hands-off approach to

plant protection products. And his vineyards, where he

now uses grass cover, have made progress, he explains.

From a flavour perspective, he wants to “go further than

his father”, or does he? His father was the village’s “latestarter”,

still working with barrels. But today, Stéphane also

uses casks made from oak sourced on the ‘Montagne’. He

has improved vineyard selections, uses massal selections

and wild ferments and does not filter or fine his wines...

He produces Extra Brut and Brut Nature Champagnes and

as he likes to say: “I am a non-interventionist. My family

has lived on this land for 5 to 6 centuries”.

The wood for the barrels comes from Verzenay forest

itself

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT - ALL CHANGE

Florian and Cindy, aged 28 and 27 respectively, are the

fifth generation to make Sadi Malot Champagne. Although

they are in the process of transitioning from the previous

generation, they have some very fixed ideas for the future.

Franck, Florian’s father, stopped using herbicides in 2004

and ploughed every other row. Organic farming therefore

seemed like the logical next step. In Villers-Marmery,

where they are located, the older winegrowers don’t

understand, others are considering it, but they are the

only ones to have taken the plunge. They started in 2018.

Cindy and Florian Malot fill a barrel


CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

Florian Malot

Cindy Malot

The wine must come from land that has not seen chemical

treatments for 3 years, but it takes much longer than that in

Champagne to secure certification – the reserve wines added

to the non-vintage wines must also be certified organic.

The estate’s current clientele is made up of loyal customers,

and three quarters of the wines are sold at the cellar door.

Organic certification should also open up export markets

and allow them to tap into high-end restaurants.

Another innovation introduced by their father but which has

captured their imagination is the use of egg-shaped concrete

tanks to ferment the wines. The egg shape puts sediment

back into suspension during fermentation, changing the

aromas. The Pinot noir feels rounder and more powerful

whilst the Chardonnay is bursting with tension and white

fruit. Since 2019, they have been maturing single vineyard

wines in barrels, and will soon have a solera system up and

running. In the long term, they may even introduce Merino

sheep to keep the grass down in winter and avoid wasting

fuel. And they could use photovoltaic energy to power

their temperature-control equipment. The young couple is

certainly not short of ideas.


CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

MADAME RAYMONDE -

CHAMPAGNE HACKERS

Sophie and Mathieu Michel are brother and sister. Their

ancestors were farmers in Vitry-en-Perthois and also

produced milk. But in the 1970s, when the Champagne

appellation area was extended to this region located at

its south-easternmost tip, it naturally marked the end

of mixed farming. The Côteaux-Vitryats vineyard, which

is not over-farmed and is planted on the mid-slope on

chalk-marl soils where there is always a slight breeze, has

a potential that had already been identified in the Middle

Ages. Chardonnay, the majority grape variety here, takes

on typical flavours of pineapple and white fruit.

The naturally ebullient, off-beat Sophie studied hydrological

engineering, but admits that her career path has been

‘fanciful’ – including street theatre – and that she “doesn’t

just drink water”. Her brother grows their grapes over 4.5

hectares, and works at the small local co-operative winery.

Both of them dreamed of creating a brand. Champagne

is classically associated with luxury and seriousness. They

wanted something that mirrored their personalities. In

2017, their idea took shape. They figured that if their

region was an outsider, they’d need to think like outsiders!

Their brand, ‘Madame Raymonde’, pays tribute to their

grandmother who was a smallholder and although “not

from the glitzy world of Champagne, was a great lady”.

The name is a way of thumbing their nose, in the nicest

possible way, at the great bourgeois ladies who fly the flag

of the traditional Champagne Houses. The ostrich, chosen

as an exotic emblem, but one that has its head firmly

in the ground, rounds off the message. The Champagne

is essentially a Blanc de Blancs with 7g/l dosage. They

are starting off gradually, with 3,000 bottles, but their

personalities will likely take them far!

Sophie Michel duelling with secateurs before the harvest

CHAMPAGNE J.A. DAUTEL - THE REBOOT

Although Julien Dautel comes from a family that has

been growing wine for seven generations on a large family

estate, he went off in search of freedom. In 2019, he

recovered a few vineyard plots and some bottles he had set

aside to get started. He and his wife now farm 3.5 hectares

in the Côte des Bar. “In Champagne you need at least 2

hectares to make wine. We are not big, but we do have 12

separate plots”.

Their location was established in the 13 th century and was

Julien Dautel savouring his Champagne


Vineyards surrounding Verzenay windmill

Stéphane Vignon, a disciple

of Escoffier

Leaving grass cover in every other row at Champagne Vignon

Père & fils

Verzenay lighthouse, a publicity stunt in 1909

Fermenters that create convection currents at Champagne

Sadi Malot

Between the rows of vines at Maison

Sadi Malot in the spring

Mathieu Michel at Champagne Mme Raymonde

Côteaux-Vitryats

The ostrich is the mascot for Champagne Mme Raymonde

Alain Vesselle Champagne’s sloping vineyards Bottles are kept for at least 6

years at Champagne Virginie T

The tasting room overlooking

the vineyards at Champagne

G Tribaut

CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

where the Cistercian monks from Molesmes Abbey came

to eat. From this, they have created a brand: La Pitancerie.

As a reminder, a ‘pitance’ is the medieval term for the food

ration required for a day. So why the decision to start up

on their own? To work the land, farm the vineyards and

make their own Champagne, but also to sell it, explains

Julien. The 40-year-old and his wife decided to take a

family gamble, one that also includes their children. The

vineyard is being renewed with new plantings, mostly

Pinot noir but also Pinot blanc. “We mustn’t make the

same mistakes that were made 30 years ago!” The weather

was equable in 2020 and very few inputs were needed.

Julien has an annual growth plan of 20%, and intends to

eventually switch to biodynamics. A former chef, he sells

through a network of contacts in the hospitality industry

and overseas, and is unable to keep up with demand for

his Extra Brut, Brut and zero dosage Champagnes. “You

don’t have to sit down to drink a glass, nor is food a

necessity!” claims Julien.

Jules and Alex Dautel: the namesake estate has also

been created for them

CHAMPAGNE VIRGINIE T -

STARTING UP AS A NEGOCIANT

Virginie and her son Ferdinand have a double Champagne

ancestry – they come from the Taittinger family (hence

the ‘T’ in their brand), and from the family that owned

Piper-Heidsieck for over a century. In 2008, the twosome

decided to take the plunge and applied for a negociant

or wholesaler’s licence. Although they own a few plots

of land in Verzy and Mailly, they mostly buy grapes from

winegrowers and make their own Champagnes.

Their winery is in Sillery, on the Montagne de Reims,

where they make 21 different blends. Mother and son

are in charge. “We have a very different palate”, explains

Ferdinand. «Mum, who worked for Taittinger for 25 years,

where Chardonnay is king, developed a taste for Pinot

noir as a reaction to this. Pinot noir is rich, powerful

and indulgent. I prefer the minerality and finesse of

Chardonnay. In 2014 we made our first Blanc de Blancs”.

The nuance is a good match for the different generations

of customers, who range in age from 40 to 70, says

Ferdinand. But they both enjoy Champagnes showing

brioche notes. All their wines are at least 6 years old so that

they develop these aromas through autolysis in the bottle.

They have around 350,000 bottles in stock. Sales started

in a growing family circle, but then they gradually reached

Virginie and Ferdinand Pougatch-Taittinger


CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

out to trade customers such as Ladurée macaroons and the

Bar Council. Internet sales are also growing. But with just

four of them in the company, they cannot be everywhere

at once. “It’s not always easy to work with your family!”

admits 29-year-old Ferdinand. But combining agricultural,

industrial and marketing activities in one job makes it

fulfilling. And he has no doubt that his new-born child

will one day join the company.

The 2020 harvest of Champagne Virginie T

Christian Tribaut – Ghislain Tribaut – Marie-Jo Tribaut – Vincent Tribaut –

Valérie Tribaut – Gauthier Coudrain-Tribaut

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT -

SHARED RESPONSIBILITIES

For the Tribaut family in Hautvillers, Champagne is also

a family affair, explains Gauthier. His great-grandfather,

Gaston, went independent in 1976 with a press, tanks and

a cellar. And although the parents currently manage the

company, the grandparents (Ghislain) are still around.

Gauthier is in charge of the winery, a cousin comes to help

at weekends, and another cousin – aptly named Gael –

also helps out. With all these ‘Gs’ there’s no need to change

the brand name!

Here, nobody keeps count of the time, it’s all about

passion. Of course, Champagne is the focal point, right

through to the family meal, but from an organisation

perspective, it makes life easier. As owners of their own

business, they all engage with each other. And because

they are versatile, they can swap roles. They have also

noticed that styles and tastes are changing. Medium-dry

wines and rosés are being superseded by wines with more

Chardonnay and minerality. There is a growing trend

towards drinking wine as an aperitif. The customers that

come and taste at the winery are prepared to pay more, but

in return they expect excellence.

Decisions are made collectively. Gauthier wanted to make a

single varietal Meunier from old vines. Two were in favour,

but four were not convinced. Conversely, temperaturecontrolled

stainless steel tanks are increasingly replacing

concrete or tiled vats. Environmental stewardship is

becoming more and more important and grass cover is

currently being rolled out in the vineyards. The 13 hectares

spread over 51 plots are not easy to harvest, and the

Tribauts do not want to rectify the must. So to ensure the

fruit does not lack acidity, they are harvesting even earlier,

due to climate change. The only question left unanswered

is who will take over the company. The Tribaut jury is still

out on that one!


CHAMPAGNE

– FUTURE –

CHAMPAGNE ALAIN VESSELLE -

NEW GENERATION

Not far from here, in Bouzy, 30-year-old Guillaume

has taken over the family company. The eldest of

three boys, he has been riding a tractor and working

in the winery since he was child... sometimes doing

dangerous work. He attended agricultural college,

passed his vocational baccalaureat and worked for a

neighbouring negociant in Verzenay. His career path

was clearly mapped out.

Whilst working for the negociant, Guillaume realised

the significance of the environment, and is currently

working towards HVE certification. But the property’s

18 hectares of vines are not all identical. In the

9-hectare vineyard in Bouzy, the company’s home,

natural protection against frost makes life easier.

Machine tillage removes the need for weed killers.

However, for the other 9 sloping hectares of vines,

Guillaume covers the ground with wood shavings to

prevent plants from growing.

The style of Champagne is evolving. “There were too

many varietal blends”, he says. He has introduced a

Blanc de Blancs, a Blanc de Noirs, and a range called

‘Les intrépides’, as a nod to the siblings’ nickname. The

duration of bottle fermentation has also been reduced

from 6-7 years to 2-3 years, to retain freshness. But

the non-vintage Brut remains unchanged, of course.

In fact, it appeals to regular customers. The Alain

Vesselle brand name, to which customers are attached,

will remain. Guillaume’s grandfather, who was also a

farmer, deserves respect. He planted 9,090 vines per

hectare, he points out. Guillaume works with one of

his brothers, whilst the other is currently running an

estate in the Saumur region. There is no doubt that

bubbles were their calling!

The Vesselle brothers

GOING DOWN IN CHAMPAGNE HISTORY

Irrespective of age, all these producers have chosen

entrepreneurship and are probably driven more by

their heart than by reason. Ultimately, though, isn’t

passion one of life’s most effective motivations?

Sparkling wines have been made in Champagne for

over three centuries, and these particular producers

want to be a part of its future.

Bouzy in the summertime


Nicely ripe Merlot at Vignobles Dulon

BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

Has the death knell sounded

for Bordeaux Merlot?

The question might seem provocative for a grape variety that originated

in the region and is an icon of its Grands Crus.

In 2019, it accounted for 66% of Bordeaux’s vineyard acreage.

Despite this, climate change is putting it through its paces. We asked winegrowers

and winemakers whether they are still planting Merlot.

By Charlie Elaina – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

Consultant winemaker Antoine Médeville

Antoine Médeville is a renowned Bordeaux

winemaker who has worked for many estates,

not only in Saint-Émilion and Graves, but

also in Spain and Italy. He has now joined

Oenoconseil, a group of four laboratories,

where he established the Pauillac department.

He explains that although Merlot has been harvested earlier

for the last twenty years, this should be put into perspective

- it is only a few days earlier. With the exception of very

specific vintages, such as 2003 and 2020, the variety is usually

harvested between 15 and 20 September.

Admittedly, sugar content is high and chaptalisation no longer

necessary. Some yeasts can push alcohol content up to 16%, so

they need to be carefully selected to produce less, with around

18 g of sugar per degree, to try and rein in alcohol levels. The

pH, which used to be around 3.6, is now more frequently 3.8


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

The Oenoconseil team tasting wines

or 3.9. Lower acidity makes for a more easy drinking flavour,

and adds to fatness and roundness. The wines, however, have

lower ageing potential, whilst the tannins seem finer. Médeville

has rarely seen producers in the region rectify their wines using

tartaric acid, as can occur in warmer regions.

He insists on steps that need to be taken in the vineyard. A

later-ripening rootstock is required and green harvesting and

leaf removal need to be reduced. If it is very hot during the

day, the time of picking can have an impact on the fruitiness

and oxidation of the grapes. For Grands Crus where the fruit

is picked by hand, the inability to harvest before sunrise is

sometimes an issue. Dry ice on the grapes can keep them cool

until they reach the winery. Cold pre-fermentation soaking is

becoming more common, and fermentation temperatures need

to be properly controlled. Refrigerated tanks have become the

norm across the region.

When Merlot is too ripe, it produces wines with candied fruit

aromas, but you can already taste this in the grapes themselves,

points out Médeville. About ten years ago, over-ripeness was

aimed for deliberately – the wines had to be more concentrated,

and richer, à la Robert Parker and garage wines. In previous


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

The Dulon family has been growing grapes since 1737

decades, the fruit was picked too early, for fear of rain, and then

had to be chaptalised! So fashions are changing.

Médeville feels that the wines tend to be more balanced

nowadays. “Merlot is still very good”. And, as he points out

impishly, with the Trump tax on French wines below 14%

(temporarily suspended, but who knows what the Biden

administration will ultimately decide to do?), try and get every

tank of Cabernet-Sauvignon to come in at over 14%! Merlot

came in very handy. Médeville does not anticipate the demise

of Merlot, and even knows of some estates still putting it in

the ground.

VIGNOBLES DULON: MERLOT STILL THE MAJORITY

GRAPE, BUT SET TO DECLINE

The Dulon family, whose roots are in Soulignac in the Entre-

Deux-Mers region, has been farming vineyards since 1737.

Château Grandjean has one hundred hectares under vine,

divided between approximately 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet-

Sauvignon or other grape varieties. The wines are labelled

Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. The family owns another

fifty or so hectares split between Château Julian and Château


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

Sophie (left) and Carole (right) Dulon

du Vallier, and they also market the Saint-Émilion Grand

Cru Château Haut-Pezat.

The family’s two daughters, who have just turned thirty,

began taking over from their parents in 2012. Sophie is

in charge of sales and Carole of the production side. “All

grape varieties - not just Merlot – are showing higher

alcohol content”, says Carole. The grapes are sweeter,

but they are also more tannic, making the wines more

powerful. “The difference is that we now remove fewer

leaves than in the past, because summers can be very

hot”. There is a fear of ‘sunburn’, a point during the

summer when it is very hot and water resources are

lacking. The consequences can be instant: the grapes

burn and the winegrower loses volume, which is what

occurred in 2020. Yields that used to reach 70 hl/ha

effortlessly have now dropped to around 50 to 55 hl.

Such extreme events can lead vines to completely shut

down, despite the fact that the rootstocks currently used

have been chosen to resist water stress better than those

available to the previous generation.

Harvesting is done by machine so that the grapes can

be brought in quickly and usually in October, after the

summer heat has passed. At the beginning of the harvest,

before yeast has filled the cellar, the grapes undergo

cold skin-contact maceration, followed by fermentation.

The pH levels remain balanced and Carole is not in

favour of rectification – generally speaking, she prefers

to limit inputs to a minimum. Here, no more Merlot is

being planted and a clear interest is being shown in new

varieties. Trials with hybrid grapes by their neighbours

seem to be working. “The percentage of Merlot will

inexorably decline”, says Carole. This is not only due to

climate change, but also in response to a trend towards

reducing the use of plant protection products; some grape

varieties require fewer sprays than Merlot. So it’s a double

whammy for Merlot!

The Dulon vineyards

ALTERVINI: MERLOT, A SENSITIVE ISSUE

Altervini sells 4 million euros worth of wines produced

by winegrowers, 95% of whom are from Bordeaux. “We

are the sales representatives for these properties”, is how

Mickaël Violleau, the company’s associate managing

director, likes to describe the company. Violleau feels the


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

future of Merlot is an issue of paramount importance. As

he points out, Bordeaux has a very high quality image

and one for age-worthy wines. Merlot is the signature

grape for this style of wine. Climate change poses a

threat to quality. Violleau is of the opinion that a very

early harvest, for example in August to avoid excess

sugar, would cause another problem. High temperatures

in mid-summer would produce wines lacking freshness,

and therefore balance. The winemaking process would

then have to be altered, and inevitably the style of the

wines would undergo a sea-change.

Violleau believes that changing the blends is a more

sensible route. Changes to specifications could allow this

to happen, by increasing the proportion of Cabernet-

Sauvignon for example. If this is done gradually, the

style of the wines should not be undermined. The idea is

for the changes to occur concurrently with generational

turnover among consumers. Petit Verdot is also an

interesting alternative, but only for winegrowers who

prove to be very proficient at growing the variety. Another

lever, of course, would be to slow down Merlot’s growing

cycle as much as possible. As a reminder, Violleau

says the Bordeaux wine marketing council (CIVB) has

commissioned several studies, mostly with funding from

the European Union.

As regards water, he believes that the Aquitaine region

has good rainfall. Any shortfalls are only occasional,

so he feels that introducing irrigation would be the

antithesis of Bordeaux. “Bordeaux is an exceptional

brand name. The wines must remain age-worthy, and we

must continue to move upmarket”, he claims.

Mickaël Violleau of Altervini

FAMILLE DUCOURT:

REPLACING MERLOT SEAMLESSLY

The Ducourt family manages 450 hectares of vines

divided between 14 properties, which produce 6 Bordeaux

appellations. They are spread across Entre-Deux-Mers, on

the right bank, with one in southern Graves. Jonathan

Ducourt is tasked with marketing and communications.

52% of the family’s acreage is planted to Merlot, but the

variety is no longer being replanted. The Saint-Émilion

property has a single 5-hectare plot, entirely planted to

Merlot. Here, the vines are only about fifteen years old,

Jonathan Ducourt


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

Merlot also produces fruity rosés,

here at Vignobles Ducourt

so removing them is not an option. But as Ducourt says,

“14 or 14.5% alcohol is acceptable for a Saint-Émilion. It

is part of the image of this powerful wine. Also, in many

countries, high alcohol content is well received. In China

and South-East Asia, it is even a guarantee of quality!”

The issue is more sensitive for the satellite appellations

(Montage Saint-Émilion) or for Castillon. Here, balance

is trickier to achieve. The skin needs to ripen before

harvesting and consequently, the Merlot grapes are

loaded with sugar and acidity drops, and in this instance

Merlot is gradually being replaced by Cabernet Franc and

Petit Verdot. This is not an issue for Merlot designed for

rosé, because the fruit can be harvested earlier, when it

is still fresh. At 37, Ducourt doesn’t think he will see the

end of Merlot in Bordeaux. There will at least be some left

in the coolest sites, he feels, and more foliage can be kept

to protect the grapes from the sun. Eight years ago, the

family replaced 13 hectares of Merlot with hybrids, but it

wasn’t about alcohol content. It was mainly to see how

the vines perform when inputs are significantly reduced,

and their experience is positive.

CHÂTEAU DES LANDES:

KEEPING MERLOT, AND GOING ORGANIC

This 32-hectare chateau is located in the Lussac-Saint-

Émilion appellation area. Nicolas Lassagne, the third

generation of owners, explains that so far global warming

has been relatively positive. “The deep clay soils retain

water well so the vines do not suffer too much. Before, we

used to remove leaves on both sides of the vine rows, to

free up the clusters. Now, we keep the leaves on one side.

Perhaps we won’t remove any leaves at all in the future”.

Lassagne has noticed that harvesting takes place a week

earlier on average. Last year, it started on 20 September,

and Merlot is the first of the red grape varieties to be

picked. The chateau has its own harvesting machine, and

can therefore decide exactly when to harvest. Timing is

important, because whilst the grapes are perfect at the

beginning of the harvest, those picked in the last week

may be a little low in acidity. For the past three years,

he has completely foregone the use of insecticides, and

uses no herbicides on half of the estate. The switch-over

to organic is underway. His customers have expressed


BORDEAUX

– GRAPES –

Nicolas Lassagne of Château des Landes

demand for organic, which justifies a loss of about 10%

in yield.

At mid-career, the 40-year-old winegrower can see only

one solution for the future of Merlot, and that is to pick

earlier. “That’s what the organic estates do, and even

more so those who farm biodynamically, because they

can’t rectify acidity levels. You also have to use tillage to

remove the grass that competes with the vines for access

to water”.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR MERLOT?

On the right bank, it would seem that the death knell has

sounded for Merlot, which seems stuck on ‘death row’.

Although the sentence has been pronounced, though, it

seems to have been given a stay of execution for several

more years. Perhaps the experience and genius of the

Bordeaux wine industry will find a way of securing it an

eleventh-hour reprieve…


ALSACE

– GRAPES –

Pinot noir shows

its true colours

Long the outsider and mainly used for rosé Crémant, Alsace Pinot noir is

increasingly gaining traction. Accounting for 10% of vineyard acreage, the varietal

is now the focus of winegrowing expertise and is being cropped at reasonable

yields. Treated this way, it demonstrates remarkable quality, taking it a step closer

to its iconic Burgundy cousin.

By Jean-Paul Burias - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


A Pinot noir vineyard in the Frankstein Grand Cru

ALSACE

– GRAPES –

In Alsace, the wine route is an essential destination

for all art, monument and wine enthusiasts. The

flower-bedecked timber-framed houses offer picturepostcard

settings and add a beautiful touch to villages

surrounded by vineyard-clad hillsides. White wines,

made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot blanc

– which between them account for 60% of production

– have long been the region’s pride and joy. But the

appellation also produces remarkable red and rosé wines

from Pinot noir, with its dark red or even black skin and

white flesh. Ubiquitous in its native region of Burgundy,

the variety is one of the world’s most planted wine grapes.

Cropped at reasonable yields and reined in by proficient

winemakers, Pinot noir is used to produce wines showing

aromas of ripe red fruit, underpinned by a fairly light

structure, with subtle freshness and delicate tannins.

Along our Alsace red wine route, we chose some iconic

examples of what Pinot noir can achieve.

Thiébaud, Dominique and Julien Frey

MAISON CHARLES FREY:

PIONEERING ORGANIC WINE

Originally from Switzerland, the Frey family moved to a

1.5-hectare vineyard in Dambach-la-Ville at the beginning

of the 18 th century. At that time, the vines were farmed

using the family’s animals and the crop was sold directly

to a wholesaler after being pressed. In 1958, Charles

Frey decided to produce his own wines. In 1997, his son

Dominique converted the entire estate to organic and

biodynamic, making it one of the pioneers in Alsace. The

next generation – his son Julien – arrived in 2003, soon

joined by his brother Thiébaud, to run 20 hectares of vines

where the Pinot noir grapes command respect. “We want

to keep the purity and expression of a grape variety which,

when farmed at moderate yields, offers extreme finesse”,

explains Thiébaud Frey. “We market three different styles.

Harmonie, which is more fruit-driven and accessible, is

the classic range. Quintessence is distinctive because of

its ageing whilst Cuvée F, from the Frankstein Grand Cru

is positioned like a terroir-driven white and designed for

fine foods”.

DOMAINE WACH: ARTISAN WINEGROWERS

Domaine Wach combines the work of a craftsman with that

of a winegrower, honouring both excellence and tradition.

In 1748, the Wach family entered the world of wine,

The winery at Domaine Wach


ALSACE

– GRAPES –

Pierre Wach and his sommelier partner,

Jessica Ouellet, who has been working on the

estate for two years

first as artisan coopers, then as winegrowers. A staunch

advocate of quality wines, Pierre Wach uses cuttingedge

winemaking technology to maximise extraction of

flavour from the different grape varieties grown in his

8-hectare vineyard, part of which is classified as Grand

Cru. After six years of trials, Wach has introduced a

technique for extraction and maceration using intense

cold that preserves the riper and more evolved aromas

from each vintage. “Alsace Pinot noir should not compare

itself or even try to resemble its Burgundy counterpart”,

he claims. “It is a grape variety in its own right. It has

long been grown in Alsace, and as such, it has its own

personality – it is fruit-forward with very supple tannins

and an intense ruby colour”. The estate produces a range

of wines, but just a single label of Pinot noir. With its

razor-sharp design, Spleen is positioned midway between

the terroir-driven wines and the Grands Crus. “Over the

past two years, we have worked to improve the fruit

through extremely rigorous selection as soon as the vines

flower. This is producing good results”, says Wach. “Over

the next few years, I want this label to rank at the top of

the estate’s range”.

The two partners, Franck Bléger and his cousin Sébastien Huber

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER:

UNIQUE PERSONALITY

This remarkable 30-hectare family estate, run by Sébastien

Huber and his cousin Franck Bléger, is blessed with soils

that have geological subtleties imbuing the Pinot noir

grapes with specific aromas and a unique personality.

The soils are primarily granite and instil the wines with

minerality, freshness and finesse. Since 2014, a standalone,

village-designated appellation – Saint-Hippolyte

Rouge – has recognised the specific features of the soils.

“The Pinot noir grapes flourish here, producing wines

that express all the red fruits, with no heaviness but rather

finesse and elegance”, says Bléger. “The complexity of

the wines stems from the spicy finish which mirrors the

granite”. In addition to an Alsace rosé, the estate markets

three red wines made from the same grape variety: the light

and fruity Pinot Noir; Saint-Hippolyte Rouge, which is

more concentrated with red fruit aromas and a spicy finish;

and the characterful, oak-aged Saint-Hippolyte Rouge with

oaky notes that emphasise the fruit. “The appeal of these

wines is growing”, says Huber. “They pique the curiosity

of our customers and are some of the winery’s best-selling


ALSACE

– GRAPES –

The team at Huber & Bléger

wines”. Exuding charming nose aromas of red fruits, they fully

encapsulate the character of Pinot noir and the complexity of a

specific vineyard site. On the palate, the silky, restrained tannin

presence adds to overall balance and harmony.

WUNSCH & MANN: A STAPLE

Wunsch & Mann has been producing Alsace wines from the best

hillside sites since 1793, epitomising family traditions and a

genuine love of winegrowing. Certified organic since 2011, the

estate thrives by focusing on site-expressiveness in each vintage and

preserving the inherent flavour of the grape variety. “Pinot noir is a

multi-tasker”, stresses Maxime Mann. “It can be used in many ways,

both for sparkling and still wines. Twenty years ago, growers turned

their backs on it, but it has become a major feature of the vineyards

of Alsace thanks to its multiple facets which allow every grower to

find their own style”. The range includes 7 different styles of Pinot

noir, from the most simple, pleasurable fruit-forward offerings to

the most complex fleshy, robust examples from the Hengst Grand

Cru. From maceration through to maturation, each wine is made

differently. The charming, satisfying Pinot noir Tradition is the

most popular. Equus is a selection from vineyards in the Hengst


Dominique Frey

The Frankstein Grand Cru overlooking

Dambach-la-Ville

The entrance to Domaine Wach

Domaine Huber & Bléger

in Saint-Hippolyte

Maturing

Saint-Hippolyte

Rouge in

oak casks

Franck Bléger tasting

a Saint-Hippolyte Rouge

Anne-Cécile Carrer of Domaine

Schmitt & Carrer

Domaine Schmitt & Carrer

Maxime Mann

tastes a Pinot noir

matured in concrete

tanks

Pruning vines at Domaines

Schlumberger

Two sheep surrounded by vines at

Domaines Schlumberger

Patrick Rentz in his cellars at

Domaine Edmond Rentz

Harvesting at Domaine

Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur

ALSACE

– GRAPES –

Grand Cru, where the marl and limestone soils add length

and power. Displaying a strong personality, it is a highly

sought-after wine.

DOMAINE SCHMITT & CARRER:

DENSE, CONCENTRATED PINOT NOIR

Sylvie and Roland Carrer, together with their daughter

Anne-Cécile, manage this beautiful 15-hectare family

estate. Certified organic in 2004, the estate mirrors a desire

in 1985 by Roger Schmitt and his son-in-law Roland

Carrer to create one of Alsace’s flagship vineyards. “We

make our wines using very few inputs in a bid to preserve

the inherent characters of the grape varieties and vineyard

sites”, explains Anne-Cécile Carrer. “We approach Alsace

Pinot noir as a full-fledged red wine. It is often considered

as a light red, but we try to counter this stereotype by

producing dense, concentrated wines”. The estate harvests

the fruit slightly over-ripe to guarantee the alcoholic and

aromatic potential that forms the backbone of red wines.

A one-year stint in French oak barrels is added for the oldvine

wines. Pinot noir is now on the estate’s roster of bestselling

wines, along with Riesling and Gewurztraminer. “It

is a variety that we vint with particular care”, says Roland

Carrer, “just like our whites, obviously. With each harvest,

we strive to improve our process. Consumers are generally

looking either for Pinot noirs that are fruity and easy

drinking with good concentration, or denser, richer wines”.

Maxime Mann near a wooden tun used exclusively

for the Hengst Pinot noir with its delicate oakiness

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER:

INCREDIBLE BENCHMARKS

A few kilometres from the Grand Ballon, which, at

1,423 metres, stands as the highest peak in the Vosges,

Domaines Schlumberger’s vineyards extend over soils

with an outstanding geological heritage. Established by

Nicolas Schlumberger in 1810, this Alsace benchmark has

successfully produced magnificent wines down through the

generations. Grown entirely on limestone soils conducive

to this type of grape variety, Pinot noir captivates the

senses with its minerality and remarkable balance which

promotes ageability. “Our aim is to produce Pinot noirs

that retain the character of Alsace with characteristic

notes of red fruit, weight and structure”, explains Séverine

Schlumberger. “The wines are much better structured

than twenty years ago and can be enjoyed at room

temperature”. High standards require short pruning and

Anne-Cécile Carrer and her father Roland at Domaine Schmitt & Carrer


ALSACE

– GRAPES –

disbudding to reduce yields. The result is quite simply

striking, with the ‘Les Princes Abbés’ label at entry-level

combining structure, minerality and length. Sourced from

the finest plot in Le Bollenberg, fruit for the Stein label

is harvested in crates and meticulously sorted before the

wines are put in new wood casks to bolster structure and

body. “Pinot noir is not a trivial part of our range”, says

Schlumberger. “In fact, we were already putting the variety

in the ground in the 2000s. It is becoming increasingly

successful and popular in export markets”.

Thomas and Séverine Schlumberger

DOMAINE LÉON HEITZMANN & CLÉMENT

KLUR: RESPECT FOR THE LAND

The Heitzmann family has been growing wine in

Ammerschwihr for 7 generations. With a focus on

excellence, this family-owned, committed winery is

certified organic and biodynamic. Here, tradition and

modernity are not mutually exclusive and both shape its

approach to meticulous vineyard management, the result

of which can be found in the glass. “We are very attached

to showing respect for the land, the environment and

the men (and women) who farm it”, explains Laurence

Heitzmann. “We are mindful to follow the natural cycles

in the vineyard, but also in the winery by taking a handsoff

approach to use of sulphites wherever possible”. Pinot

noir offers a perfect rendition of site-expressiveness and

although it only accounts for 8% of sales, it continues to

grow. “Pinot noir is one of our favourite grape varieties”,

says Heitzmann. “Long before it became fashionable, we

made it our mission to produce stellar, barrel-aged wines.

It is a magnificent selling point, which has become a firm

favourite. I use it to surprise my customers and encourage

them to expect the unexpected”.

Laurence Heitzmann of Domaine Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur

DOMAINE EDMOND RENTZ:

DRIVEN BY HIGH STANDARDS

Established in Zellenberg in 1785 by Thomas Rentz, this

family estate was given a new lease of life in 1920 with

Edmond Rentz at its helm. Rentz expanded vineyard

acreage and set remarkably high standards. After pioneering

bottling in 1930, he decided to customise his wines by

displaying his name on each bottle. Catherine Rentz and

her brother Patrick have run the estate since 1995 and

have developed winegrowing techniques that show respect

for the soils, the vines and the environment, fuelled by


ALSACE

– GRAPES –

Catherine Rentz and her brother Patrick at Domaine Edmond Rentz

an unrelenting quest for quality, typicity and authenticity. “We have

several Pinot noir stocks from different massal selections, some of

them originating in Burgundy”, explains Patrick Rentz. “Demand is

on the rise and customers are drawn to the quality of our wines”. Pinot

noir, which always leaves an impression, requires a meticulous and

unfailing approach to vineyard management and winemaking. “It is

one of the most challenging red grape varieties to vint, as it has less

colour than other red grape varieties but a strong tannin structure”,

explains Catherine Rentz. “Proficiency in barrel maturation is of the

essence to bring out the fruitiness of the grape variety, the complexity

of the vineyard site and the oakiness of the barrel. Global warming

has become an ally of Pinot noir. In the future, we intend to put more

Pinot noir in the ground to meet demand and to continue to raise

our winemaking standards so that our clientele is wholeheartedly

satisfied with our wines”.

PINOT NOIR IS BENEFITING FROM CURRENT WEATHER

PATTERNS

France’s most northerly wine region, after Champagne, is demonstrating

the incredible versatility and unique character of Pinot noir grown in

ideal sites and weather conditions. Global warming, particularly in the

weeks leading up to harvest, has promoted greater ripeness in Pinot

noir, which was previously restricted to the odd Alsace microclimate.

Admittedly, consumers may be taken aback to find Pinot noir in

a region renowned for its white wines and Crémants. But with its

remarkable value for money, Alsace Pinot noir is attracting a growing

following among enthusiasts who enjoy a style of red wine with very

accessible flavours that can be savoured as an aperitif or with food.


Julie Ay at the Mazy distillery

FRUIT BRANDIES

– FRENCH EXPERTISE –

Artisanal fruit brandies

Quintessential French craftsmanship

The spirits industry is increasingly cornered by industrially-produced liquors, very

often imported. The French drink 140 million bottles of whisky a year, but just 2 or

3 of fruit brandy. And yet, there was a time when almost every farmer was a home

distiller. France still has some top quality artisanal distilleries producing gourmetstyle

products for consumers in the know.

By Alain Echalier - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


FRUIT BRANDIES


The Metté distillery uses 3 small copper stills

Creating alcohol through fermentation dates back

thousands of years – 8,000 years for wine, 9,000 for

beer – but it only produces a few degrees of alcohol.

Distillation, on the other hand, is much more recent. In

France, noteworthy contributors to the technique were

Arnaud de Villeneuve (1238-1311) and his student,

Raymond de Lulle, at Montpellier university. By heating a lowalcohol,

water-based liquid, the water – which obviously becomes

a gas at 100°C – can be separated due to the fact that ethanol and

many molecules evaporate above 79°C.

The theory might look simple, but in practice, distillation is anything

but due to the numerous factors involved. When it comes to

alcohol, however, human imagination knows no bounds, and the

technique has been elevated to an art form. Countless types of stills

were invented with processes that sometimes required multiple

distillations in series. Once the distillate is obtained, alcohol content

can be so high that it is unacceptable to the human palate, even the

most seasoned… So it has to be brought down by adding pure water.

Legally, and often for tax purposes, alcohol content has to range from

37 to 45% ABV, but there are some spirits which retain more or less

their original strength, ranging from 60 to 75%. Brandies can also be

matured, a phase where they undergo controlled oxidation. And as

historically, the containers they were matured in were wood, this also

contributes to aromatics. Lastly, different spirits can also be blended

for improved complexity.


FRUIT BRANDIES


Harvesting cherries at the Hagmeyers

DISTILLING WHAT IS AVAILABLE

In France, wine production provided the inspiration for two

types of spirit. By pressing the grapes, the skins and the pips

are separated from the juice. At the time, this was done by

foot and produced a kind of ‘cake’ that was solid yet moist

– the pomace, or ‘marc’ in French that stems from ‘marcher’

or walk – and could then be distilled. By extension, the

resultant spirit is called ‘marc’ or pomace brandy. Some

people claim that grape pomace produced by making white

wines is superior in quality because the lengthy soaking

required to make red wine removes many of the aromatic

compounds. The pressed grape juice is cloudy and the wine

has to be clarified through settling. The lees, which fall to

the bottom of the tank, can also be distilled and produce

‘fines’. Cognac and Armagnac are produced from the

leftover ‘burnt wine’, but every wine region has a distilling

tradition. We have selected a Burgundy micro-distillery and

two Alsace distilleries to illustrate that tradition.

Incidentally, the continental climate in Alsace also makes it

particularly suitable for growing plums, pears and cherries,

for example – fruits which, when fully ripe, are full of sugar.

That makes them potential candidates for fermenting them

into a mash, then distilling them. A second distillation

separates the desired aromas. The people of Alsace and

Lorraine, who happen to be gourmet food lovers, have

become masters in the art of producing spirits from all

kinds of fruit. We spoke to an independent fruit grower and

distiller, and a small but prestige distillery.

Normandy and Brittany, where the weather is too cold

and damp to grow vines, turned to apples and pears, using

grafts that were brought from Spain in the 15 th century. The

area of Domfront, in Normandy, has even specialised in

pears. The fermented juice of all these fruits produces the

refreshing drinks cider and perry. But of course, it was not

long before the idea of distilling them emerged, leading

to Normandy Calvados, which is subtly matured. A longstanding

apple grower, cider maker and distiller reveals his

techniques to us.

Grape pomace at the Mazy distillery

DISTILLERIE MAZY IN MARSANNAY-LA-CÔTE

Julie Ay comes from a family of winegrowers in Gigondas,

but her bio-chemistry studies initially pointed her in the

direction of environmental management. As she reached


FRUIT BRANDIES


thirty, she decided she wanted a more artisanal career –

distilling. She taught herself by meeting other distillers

in Cognac, Faugères and Alsace, then decided to become

a practitioner herself in the Côte de Nuits. It is a little

known fact that the right to become a mobile distiller can

be applied for at the customs department, but it cannot be

purchased. Julie Ay started up in 2016.

Close proximity to world famous estates such as Domaine

Armand Rousseau and Domaine Bruno Clair obviously

provides access to excellent quality raw materials, and

present-day winegrowers rarely distil themselves. But they

have a legal obligation to properly dispose of their pomace

and lees. Julie Ay offers to re-use them by making potable

spirits, and the idea of stellar quality spirits appeals to

winegrowers. She produces AOC Burgundy ‘marc’ and

‘fine’ brandies along with fruit brandies and liqueurs.

Traditionally, ‘fine’ brandy with aromas of wine is

considered more delicate and is more popular – it also

comes at a higher price, of €40 to €50 a bottle. Due to

the fairly small amounts of lees, she blends them before

distilling to produce Grand Cru or Côte de Nuits ‘fine’

brandies.

The pomace brandies, with aromas more akin to raisins, sell

for around €30 to €50 a bottle. Working alone and located

in a predominantly red wine region, she only produces

pomace brandies from Pinot noir. The pomace – or ‘gène’

as it is referred to in Burgundy – has to be extremely fresh,

just one to three weeks old. It is then slightly re-wetted and

distilled. Julie Ay then has enough raw materials to produce

spirits by appellation. Have you ever tried a pomace brandy

from Grand Cru Chambertin or Clos de Bèze?

She distils at her home in the village of Marsannay, and

it doesn’t go totally unnoticed. When distillation starts in

October, cyclists riding through the village have no trouble

noticing the lovely wafts that float in the air.

Julie Ay

DISTILLERIE HAGMEYER GROWS ITS OWN FRUIT

In the Alsace village of Balbronn, people have been distilling

since the turn of the 17 th century. Even thirty or so years

ago, over 20 families were still distilling. At the Hagmeyers,

Willy is in the process of passing his business on to his

daughter Elsa. The Hagmeyers have 12 hectares of orchards,

that are home to damsons, Mirabelle plums, Williams pears

Willy and Elsa Hagmeyer


FRUIT BRANDIES


The recommended glass for drinking brandy

and even strawberries. And since September 2019, they

have even planted some barley to start producing whisky!

Most of the fruit they distil is home grown. They are also

winegrowers – the Gewurtztraminer juice they produce goes

to the co-operative and they distil the rest.

The varieties of fruit are the same as the edible varieties,

except for the cherries. The fruit needs to be in good

condition and harvested at peak ripeness for its sugar, but

acidity is a requisite so that the fruit ferments well and there

are no bacterial issues. Visually appealing fruit, however, is

not a must so there is no need to spray for scab, for example.

The pears, where the ripeness window is very short-lived,

are picked and ripen in storage. “Avoiding mushing pear

flavours is essential”, points out Willy Hagmeyer.

Yeast is added to the pureed fruit. Fermentation lasts for 2

to 4 weeks. Pears with low sugar content produce 3% ABV,

compared with 9% for plums and cherries. Distillation then

starts immediately afterwards. Double distillation for the

Mirabelle plums and the pears creates purer flavours but

some fruits, like strawberries, are only suitable for single

distillation. During the distilling process, it is essential to

have a glass at hand, to smell, taste and make decisions

there and then depending on the prevailing mood. As it

exits the still, the spirit has an ABV of between 65 and 75%.

It is cooled to -3°C to filter out the impurities and ensure

its colour is brilliant and transparent. It is also blended with

different vintages and ABV is brought down to around 45%.

“Savour it at around 15°C in a tulip shape glass”, claim

the Hagmeyers. When brandy is good, it does not burn the

palate. Although it is often savoured at the end of a meal,

a lot of food pairings are excellent. They include Mirabelle

brandy with unpasteurised Camembert, pear brandy with

duck breasts, flammekueche or munster cheese with kirsch

(cherry)…

A delivery of damsons, a variety of plums from Alsace

METTÉ, THE ‘POPE OF BRANDIES’

Celebrated firm Jean-Paul Metté, taken over by Jean-Paul’s

godson Philippe Traber and wife Nathalie, experienced

another shock two years ago with the death of Philippe.

Although Nathalie was approached by major companies,

she finally decided to continue because their son Timothée

returned to the family firm.

They currently produce a staggering 120 brandies and


FRUIT BRANDIES


Nathalie and her son Thimotée Traber now at the helm of the Metté distillery

28 liqueurs, but they are still a treasure of artisanal

distilling, producing an average 35,000 bottles. Here, all

the raw materials are bought in – fruit from Alsace and the

Rhone Valley for example, and wild berries from Romania

and Hungary, because there is nobody to pick wild fruit

any more in France. They do, however, collect some

flowers themselves, like elderflower or pine buds. Quality

is essential. “How can you ask a chef to cook good fish

when it’s gone past its freshness”. It’s exactly the same for

distilling. Everything arrives in small crates and is sorted a

second time.

The three copper stills are small, which makes quality

control and cleaning easier. This is a fundamental aspect

of the process. A pear, for example, contains pips and

therefore oil, so the sides of the still can become fatty and

a rancid smell can develop. Between heating, each still is

therefore dismounted and cleaned.

The alcohol content of the brandies is then brought down

and the spirits are placed in stainless steel tanks in the

courtyard with the lids placed on top to avoid dust entering

them. For six years, they breathe, expand and contract with

the seasons – in some ways like Vin Jaune in Jura. The

cold naturally filters them and they become clearer. The


FRUIT BRANDIES


aggressiveness and the ether nose evaporate. As Nathalie

stresses, remember to put your glasses in the refrigerator at

the start of the meal so that they don’t have to be cooled

with ice, which, even when removed, adds liquid to the

brandy. And don’t swirl it in the glass too much – no more

than 2 or 3 times, otherwise the alcohol stands out. Every

little detail counts!

One last piece of information: the distillery shop in

Ribeauvillé accounts for 50% of the company’s turnover.

Pay them a visit, you’ll understand why!

Demi-johns at Metté

Taste, taste and taste again. This is an important part of

Guillaume Drouin’s job

CALVADOS DROUIN

APPLES WITH GOOD BREED

Guillaume Drouin is the third generation to produce

Calvados. The distillery is now housed in a former stud farm

in Pont l´Evêque. He grows 35 varieties of apples and buys

fruit too, allowing him to achieve the right balance with

mostly bitter-sweet (up to 70% of apples in Pays d’Auge),

bitter, sweet and crisp varieties. As an apple tree produces

fruit every other year, by alternating varieties of each style,

the 30 varieties required can be reached effortlessly.

The fruit is quite different to edible apples – it is sweet

but also quite tannic. Drouin points out that, unlike

grapes, apple flesh also contains tannins, which is why

it turns brown when cut. The orchards are planted with

trees that are spaced out, and pruned with long canes to

avoid temptation for the cows which eat the worm-eaten

apples on the ground, thereby helping fertilise the soils.

By planting 15-20 varieties a field and keeping the trees

well apart, the only intervention required is pruning. This

is very different to industrial orchards where unfortunately

it has become the norm to spray agro-chemicals 20 to

30 times a year.

The apples – which are much more robust than eating

apples – are picked up off the ground once a week. The

fruit is immediately chopped and pressed and the juice is

put into a fermenter to produce cider. For bottled cider,

the proportions of each variety are chosen just before

pressing, but for Calvados, the choice is made when the

orchard is planted. Distillation begins with the first ciders

in October and ends in June. A cider distilled when young

produces rounded, fruity Calvados. A more mature cider is

more acidic and harsher, but has better ageing potential.


FRUIT BRANDIES


Guillaume Drouin

Everything has to be tasted then blended once a year.

Then maturation begins, another key part of the Calvados

process, in 1,200 casks that have already been used for Port,

Sherry and Cognac for instance. Ullage is quite significant

and the casks often contain 10% of air – it’s all very

scientific. The different cellars also have their own particular

features: the traditional Normandy house with its timberframe

walls and thatched roof guarantees perfect insulation,

whilst a slate roof allows the temperature to vary from 10

to 20°C. “For Calvados, maturation is as important as

distillation”, points out Drouin. Apparently, he is proficient

at both because his 150,000 bottles produced annually are

shipped worldwide.

PROTECTING CRAFTSMANSHIP

With this kind of product, the traditional post-prandial

drink – the antithesis of binge drinking – has a rightful

place in the gourmet hall of fame. Although it has suffered

tremendously from rural exodus and a disconnect with the

farming community, connoisseurs and purists are holding

the fort. And in recent years, they have been joined by

prominent figures such as pastry chefs and mixologists,

who are increasingly demanding in their choice of products.


A view of the Bodegas Bleda winery

from the vineyards

SPAIN

– REGION –

The Monastrell grape

stakes its claim

This red wine variety, native to the Levante region on the East coast of Spain, has

for many years been asserting its ability to produce high quality red wines, as

well as rosé, sweet and sparkling wines. Also known as Mourvèdre and Mataró,

in addition to this part of the Mediterranean, it is well-established in a variety of

locations including Provence, Australia and California.

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


SPAIN

– REGION –

The manager of Bodegas Alceño, Andres Bastida in the vineyard

Like other native Spanish wine varieties, Monastrell

has had to wait for its moment and stop being

considered as a variety that is only suitable

for ‘younger’ wines. However, in the last two

decades, this Levante variety has regained its

reputation, thanks to the intense wines produced

in the Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and Utiel-Requena

designations of origin.

BODEGAS ALCEÑO JUMILLA D.O.

150 YEARS ON...

Formerly owned by the Martinez family for many

generations until it was bought in 2011 by the Bastida

family, when its name was changed to Bodegas Alceño,

this winery has been making single varietal wines using

the region’s native variety, Monastrell. In recent years, the

winery has moved with the times, adapting to market

trends and diverging from single varietals to produce wines

blended with other varieties such as Tempranillo, Syrah,

Grenache, Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and

Cabernet-Sauvignon for red wines and Sauvignon blanc,

Verdejo, Airen and Macabeo for white wines, along with

sweet sparkling rosés, etc. It was the original winery in

Jumilla to produce the first-ever rosé traditional method


SPAIN

– REGION –

sparkling wine made entirely from Monastrell.

As a winery, its aim is “to present the consumer with a wide

portfolio of wines offering the best value for money”. Its

customers are located in over 35 countries throughout the

world and represent some 70% of its sales volumes. 30% of

its wines are drunk in the home market.

All the wines from this winery have been rated highly and

have received awards from the world’s foremost guides and

a variety of competitions including the Gilbert & Gaillard

International Challenge.

Last year, it celebrated its 150 th anniversary... and counting...

Juan Miguel Benítez is the winemaker

at Bodegas Alceño

The vineyards and winery at Bodegas Arloren

BODEGAS ARLOREN, JUMILLA D.O.

THE LEGACY OF DON DOMINGO ARCE

This winery’s raison d’être revolves around the family as

its central pillar, and also its loyalty to traditional methods

and quality.

The winery stems from several generations of experience as

liqueur distillers. In 1972, with Domingo Arce at the helm,

it was decided the time had come to make a change – the

company chose to enter the world of wine at a time when

the country was undergoing significant changes itself.

Now 83, Arce’s charisma and passion for a job well done is

still ever-present in every part of the winery. He continues

to contribute ideas and advice, and like a good reserva wine,

he adds the special touch which increases in value with the

passing of time. He is still very much involved in the day-today

business of the company.

Don Domingo’s son, who now holds the reins, is in practice

responsible for everything: he is out in the field inspecting

development of the vines, overseeing the harvest, the

winemaking process in the winery, and bottling. He is now

the company’s ‘guiding light’. His experience and instinct

are fundamental to its day-to-day development.

Like some of the wineries in this article, Bodegas Arloren

has set exports as one of its objectives in a bid to grow

sales: the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Germany,

the Czech Republic, Russia, Estonia, China, Australia and

Nigeria are some of the countries where its wines can be

found. In 2020, exports represented some 30% of total sales

and for the current year, the firm’s sights have been set on

reaching 50%.

One aspect that makes this winery special is the name of


SPAIN

– REGION –

Members of the family - Jose, Domingo, Marisa and Miriam - at Bodegas Arloren

some of its wines. Experience and members of the family have been

an inspiration when christening the wines: “El Tío del Carro”, “Paca”,

“Paco” and “La Nieta” are a tribute to the people close to the Arce

Family.

BODEGAS BLEDA, JUMILLA D.O.

FROM BULK WINES TO PRESENT-DAY OFFERINGS

This family-run winery traces its origins back to the beginning of the

20 th century (1902), when the Bleda family established a wine and

olive oil business in the town of Jumilla. But it was only 13 years later

(1915), that they laid the foundations for what is known today as

Bodegas Bleda.

Jumilla is an area with a long winemaking tradition and it is here

that the winery is located. It began to make a name for itself when

one of its previous generations, led by Antonio Bleda Garcia, opted

to change the winery from being a producer of bulk wines for the

domestic market to, in their own words, “being pioneers in bottling

Jumilla wines for the export market, something that was unthinkable

at that time”.


SPAIN

– REGION –

Pascual Tomás, winemaker (left) and Antonio José Bleda, owner (right) at Bodegas Bleda

The winery owns 250 hectares of vineyards, 80% planted to

Monastrell with most of the vines farmed organically. As the

winery says, “the variety is the one best suited to the environment

in Jumilla, as it needs a warm climate to ripen. It copes with

drought conditions very well and ripens equally well. The climate

and the soils lend the grapes greater concentration of key elements,

enabling us to produce powerful wines, with an intense colour,

great structure and aromatic complexity”.

All the wines are made primarily from the native Monastrell

grape, either as single variety wines or blends with varieties such

as Tempranillo, Syrah and Merlot. Among the wines, the soleracrafted

Oro Viejo deserves a mention. It is still being made as it

was at the turn of the 20 th century when Antonio Bleda succeeded

in winning a gold medal for it at the 1929 Barcelona World

Exhibition.

The company “has always maintained a strong commitment

to making high quality young and aged wines thanks to the

extraordinary dedication of all the people who have been part of

Bleda for four generations, both in the vineyard and at the winery”.


SPAIN

– REGION –

The Castaño family: from left to right, Daniel, Juan Pedro, Ramón Castaño, Ángela and Ramón

BODEGAS CASTAÑO, YECLA D.O.

100% ORGANIC BY 2023

Wines made by this winery based in the Murcian town of Yecla (after

which the designation of origin is named) are the “fruit of work on the

native Monastrell grape, constant experimentation with other varieties

and different kinds of soil where our vineyards in the Yecla D.O. are

located. These factors lend greater complexity of aroma and flavour to

each of our wines”.

Since the start of the last century, generation after generation of this family

has been committed to making wines from Monastrell, a grape variety

which has achieved exceptional quality in the Levante region.

Its entrepreneurial and experimental philosophy has implied introducing

new technologies and modern winemaking systems over time. These have

been combined with outstanding success with an attachment to the land

and a passion for the region’s indigenous grape, which is the marvellous

legacy of previous generations.

As the Yecla winery points out, “our land with its climatic and soil

conditions offer the perfect scenario for organic farming. If we add the

most favourable conditions for organic winegrowing in our location to


SPAIN

– REGION –

our traditional quality winemaking techniques, the result

can only lead to a more sustainable future”. Bodegas

Castaño aims to be a 100% organic wine producer by 2023.

Approximately 80% of the wine produced by this winery

is destined for export to over 60 countries. In addition to

Europe, Bodegas Castaño has a foothold in other countries

such as the United States, Canada, Japan, China, Russia,

the United Kingdom, South Korea, Brazil, Singapore,

Venezuela, New Zealand, Algeria and United Arab Emirates,

among others.

Mariano López, the winemaker

at Bodegas Castaño

Pedro José Azorín, the winemaker at Bodegas La Purísima

BODEGAS LA PURÍSIMA, YECLA D.O.

WINES DESIGNED FOR EXPORT

The history of this winery is defined by a commitment

to quality, innovation and winemaking tradition. It was

founded in 1946 by several farmers who came together to

improve the quality of Yecla wines and to make great wines.

In fact, at the beginning of the 1990s, the winery made one

of its best wines, Iglesia Vieja Crianza, making it one of the

region’s foremost wines, subsequently featuring on wine

lists in the leading restaurants in Murcia. It is a wine which

paved the way for producing other great wines.

For the staff at Bodegas La Purísima, wines are “like a

work of art incorporating a young, modern and up-todate

philosophy within a long history”. The winery’s team

is young, very well qualified and has great experience.

Its technical staff, winemakers, sales team, international

consultants and marketing personnel work daily to create

the best wines possible.

As the winery points out, “wines from our region (Yecla,

Murcia) are fashionable worldwide thanks to the Monastrell

grape and the acclaim given to it from the best critics

internationally”.

Bodegas La Purísima wines “adapt to the needs of the

most demanding customers, constantly complying with the

parameters of quality, both in the harvesting of the grapes

and in the making of the wine”.

“Our prestige is based on the quality of our wines and

on our capacity to satisfy large volumes”. With a clear

commitment to export (95% of its production is bound

for the international market), its customers include the

major agents and operators in the world of wine in over

50 countries.


SPAIN

– REGION –

Bodegas La Purísima produces 60% of total output in its

native Yecla D.O., with a capacity of some 9 million litres.

The winery concludes: “The market is discovering the

excellence of our wines which have achieved well-deserved

prestige and many national and international awards”.

BODEGAS MURVIEDRO, VARIOUS D.O.S

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE BY FOCUSING

ON THE NATIVE CULTIVAR

This winery, with a foothold in a number of designations of

origin (Alicante, Cava, Valencia, Utiel-Requena and Vinos

de la Tierra de Castilla), has a significant presence in the

’Monastrell region’, where it makes up to four Monastrell

single varietals, two of which are farmed organically.

The philosophy of this winery is to invest in the region

where they are located because this is their hallmark.

The name of the winery (Murviedro) is relatively new

(2002). It was originally called Bodegas Schenk. Originally

from Switzerland, but sensing that the wine business was

going to be of global importance and not simply local, the

family set up its first winery in Spain in 1927 in the town

of Vilafranca del Penedés (Barcelona, Catalonia). In 1929,

they founded the winery in Alicante, together with others in

Utiel and Requena.

At that time, as with most wine producers in the country,

they produced ‘quality’ wine in bulk. However, from

the middle of the 20 th century, they began to turn their

attention to bottled wine. Because their wineries were near

Mediterranean ports, they focused on one of the company’s

current pillars – exports.

The change in the company name coincided with the 75 th

anniversary of the founding of the winery in Spain, and it

was also in honour of Cavas Murviedro, one of the most

iconic brands in the Community of Valencia, making

Bodegas Murviedro one of the most famous wineries.

According to the winery team, the strategy at Murviedro

“is based on investing in native grape varieties as the best

ambassadors for our country and on boosting vineyards

with old cultivars to create wines linked to the region, with

unique characteristics which reveal a distinctive profile”.

According to its technical director, “the Monastrell grape is

key to the future of Murviedro, with its new line Sericis”.

The barrel room at Bodegas Murviedro

Juan José Muñoz, technical director at Bodegas Murviedro


A drone view of the vineyards surrounding the winery at DFJ Vinhos

PORTUGAL

– SUCCESS STORY –

Wineries taking

on the future...

Europe’s most south-westerly country boasts a plethora of wineries, many of which

have a long history. As with any civilization seeking to move forward, however,

new and younger generations come along. Introducing new technology but also

drawing on the experience of their predecessors, they get into the starting blocks

with a view to achieving success in the marketplace.

By Santiago Jimenez - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates - Foto©Hugo_Pinheiro


PORTUGAL


José Neiva Correia, the winery owner at DFJ Vinhos,

in the barrel room

Portugal is the 10 th largest wine producer

in the world and offers a wide diversity of

wines from north to south. We have all

heard of the historic wineries in the Douro,

Madeira and Alentejo, each with their own

history, but new wineries are constantly

emerging and their quality captures our attention. They

have great potential to rank amongst the best in the nottoo-distant

future.

We are going to introduce you to three such wineries

with strong growth potential and products that can set

the trend over the coming decades.

DFJ VINHOS

José Neiva Correia is from a winegrowing family and is

the owner of DFJ Vinhos. The company was created in

1998 and all of its 250 hectares are certified sustainable.

Located within the Lisboa appellation, all its vineyards

are 70 km to the north-east of the Portuguese capital,


PORTUGAL


José Neiva Correia, the winery owner at DFJ Vinhos,

surrounded by vines

Quinta Fonte Bela belonging to DFJ Vinhos

Lisbon, and are situated around the main winery. Here, at

the epicentre of the company’s entire operation, 80 ha of

vineyards produce around 3 million litres of wine.

The vineyards bask in air that rises off the Atlantic, having a

notable influence on their growth. The continental climate,

with its ocean breeze, together with abundant sunlight,

helps the grapes ripen slowly over the summer. Different

vineyard sites dotted over the 250-hectare estate are reflected

in the different types of wine produced by DFJ Vinhos.

In 2020, during the Covid pandemic, “we invested a lot

in order to increase safety for our employees, and drew up

contingency plans, which has allowed work at the winery to

continue”, said the winery. “We completed the first harvest

at Quinta da Fonte Bela (50 ha)”. In spite of it being a

problematic year due to the pandemic, the company grew

by 20% in comparison with the 250 ha of the previous year

(2019), exporting 99% of its entire production.


PORTUGAL


The main markets are currently the European Union,

Scandinavia, the USA, Canada and Brazil.

The company produces red, white and rosé wines from

20 varieties of native and international grapes: Touriga

Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Castelão, Alicante

Bouschet, Tannat, Dornfelder, Pinot Noir, Caladoc,

Alfrocheiro, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay,

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscatel, Arinto, Fernão Pires

and Alvarinho.

The wines are produced in a number of designations

of origin (Douro, Lisboa, Alentejo, Vinho Verde and

Península de Setúbal), and can be found in all market

segments: wines for regular consumption, mid-range

wines, premium, iconic wines and even a sparkling wine

(Portada).

The company only uses French oak barrels from Allier,

and restores them in its own cooperage for re-use.

This enables it to use them many more times than the

industry norm, and gives José Neiva scope to select

barrels for each of the varieties with which he works.

DFJ Vinhos has received numerous awards. Since 2010,

it has received a total of 3,755 accolades, 610 of them

in 2020.

A drone view of the winery at DFJ Vinhos

ANSELMO MENDES

Anselmo Mendes is the owner and winemaker at the

winery that bears his name. He graduated in agroindustrial

engineering in 1987 at the Higher Education

Institute of the Technical University in Lisbon, and also

graduated in oenology at the Catholic University of

Portugal (Lisbon) six years later.

He has worked on different winemaking projects in

various parts of Portugal (Douro, Dao) as well as in Latin

America (Brazil and Argentina). He began to study and

experiment with the Alvarinho grape in 1987, and as a

result of his research into the effects of fermentation and

ageing in oak barrels on the variety, he produced his first

wine in 1998: Muros de Melgaço.

Since then and for over 20 years, Mendes’ focus has been

Anselmo Mendes is passionate about experimenting and studying the

Alvarinho grape, and has been doing so for 30 years


Anselmo Mendes at Quinta da Torre, in Monção and Melgaço

PORTUGAL


on experimenting mainly with the Alvarinho grape and

producing outstanding wines throughout Portugal.

Today, as a consultant, he works on several successful

projects in different parts of Portugal, as well as in

other countries.

His philosophy is based on uniting concepts that are both

simple yet complex, fusing tradition and innovation:

recovering traditional vineyard and winemaking

techniques, and combining these with modern

fermentation methods. Fermenting the Alvarinho grape

in wooden barrels or using traditional fermentation

techniques, as well as fermentation on the skins, are


PORTUGAL


just some of the techniques which set these wines apart.

“We believe in preserving the authenticity of our region

and the expression of our land through our wines.

Our mission is to produce unique wines that project

our identity”.

Currently, the winery is located almost on the border

of Portugal and Spain to the north. It produces wines

from three varieties of white grape (Alvarinho, Loureiro,

Avesso) and one red grape (Alvarelhão) in three

sub-regions of the demarcated Vinho Verde region:

Alvarinho and Alvarelhão in the Minho valley; Loureiro

in the Lima valley; and Avesso in the Douro valley. It

also produces wines in other regions across the country.

In Dão, it has a 6-ha estate at Quinta de Silvares, whilst

on Terceira Island (Azores) it produces Magma wines

from the Verdelho grape. Similarly, it produces wines in

the Douro and Beira inland regions.

Quinta da Torre is the largest Alvarinho Estate in Monção e Melgaço and the

birthplace of Anselmo Mendes Wines

CANTANHEDE

This co-operative has 500 vine grower members,

was founded in 1954 and has 52 employees. It has

1,000 hectares of vineyards located in the wine region

of Bairrada, in the town of Cantanhede, from where

it takes its name. It harvests between 6 and 8 million

kilos of grapes a year, and is the region’s largest wine

producer (40% of the total). Eighty percent of its

production is labelled DOC [Registered Designation

of Origin] Bairrada and Beira Atlántico, and it leads

the way for sales of wines and sparkling wines in these

designations.

The use of modern technology has led to a significant

leap in quality in the wines, which is of paramount

importance considering competition in the international

market. It has focused improvements on food safety (the

winery is certified by the International Standards for

Food Quality and Safety ISO 9001: 2015 and IFS FOOD

6.1) and enhancing and developing Portuguese grapes,

in particular varieties traditional to the Bairrada region,

such as Baga, Bical and Maria Gomes, and also Touriga

Nacional, Aragonez and Arinto, amongst others.

Traditional harvesting by hand at Cantanhede


PORTUGAL


Osvaldo Amado, the winemaker at Cantanhede

Victor Damiao, the president of Cantanhede

The co-operative’s wide portfolio (12 different brands)

includes reds, whites, still and sparkling rosés, marc and

fortified wines, allowing it to gain a foothold in various

market segments and across the quality spectrum. The

quantum leap in quality has given the wines a point of

difference, creating “products with added value, based on

unique and surprising aromas and flavours”.

The winery is currently present in around twenty

countries and its wines have been recognised in a

number of prestigious international competitions (IWSC

London, Mundus Vini. - Germany, Concours Mondial

de Bruxelles, Selections Mondiales des Vins - Canada,

Effervescents du Monde - France and the Berliner Wein


PORTUGAL


The Team at Cantanhede: From left to right – Osvaldo Amado (chief winemaker), Victor Damião (president),

Maria Miguel Manão (export & MKT manager), Albino Costa (board member), Ivo Silva (assistant winemaker)

Trophy – Germany) where, on several occasions, it has

been the only winery in Bairrada to receive an award.

One of its most notable awards was when it was rated

as one of the 100 best wineries in the world in 2015,

according to the World Association of Wines and Spirits

Writers and Journalists.

Winemaker Osvaldo Amado has been director of

winemaking since 2011. His career began in 1987

and since then he has gained extensive professional

experience in the leading wine regions of Portugal, such

as Bairrada, Dão, Douro, Verdes, Tejo and Lisbon, and

also in other countries such as Spain, Italy, South Africa

and Brazil.


Abbazia di San Gaudenzio’s Azienda Torbane is located in Santo Stefano Belbo

partly in the UNESCO listed area

ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

ASTI DOCG AND MOSCATO D’ASTI DOCG

in the past, present and future

In Italy, one wine more than any other one suggests festivities and celebrating

special moments: Moscato d’Asti. Our journey takes us to the regions, wines and

wineries that fall within two of Piedmont’s most important designations:

Asti Docg and Moscato d’Asti Docg. These are places with a timeless charm, which

man has been able to gracefully and wisely shape by planting vineyards that follow

the contours of the undulating land.

By Francesco Saverio Russo - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

The vineyards of Casa Vinicola Abbazia owned by the Santero family in Santo Stefano Belbo, a small town between

Monferrato, Langhe and Roero

The areas where Moscato Bianco grapes are

grown to produce Asti Docg and Moscato

d’Asti Docg boast landscapes that cannot

be found in any other Italian region. The

area was defined in 1932 and includes

52 localities situated in the provinces of

Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo. Around 9,700 hectares of

Moscato Bianco vineyards are registered in the Docg, and

over 4,000 companies produce the wines. There are two

different hilly macro-zones:

- the Langhe, with a more elongated shape and long,

slightly steep ridges.

- Monferrato, with gentler hills, characterized by greater

biodiversity.

These areas are as diverse as they are complementary and

make these designations exceptional.

Although both made from Moscato Bianco, these are two

different areas and designations: Asti Docg and Moscato

d’Asti Docg. Moscato d’Asti, which does not undergo a

secondary fermentation, is not a sparkling wine, even if it

is sometimes characterized by a slight natural beading (it is

said to be “racy”). Asti, conversely, is a true sparkling wine.


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

Moscato bianco is often underestimated but boasts the complexity and versatility typical of excellent grapes

SAME GRAPE, DIFFERENT STYLES

Asti Spumante Docg is exclusively made from the Moscato

Bianco grape variety grown on the calcareous soils within

the production area and the microclimate typical of hilly

areas. Traditional Piedmontese expertise in producing

sparkling wines; winemaking knowledge; vineyard

management; and harvesting techniques ensure that the

aroma in the grapes is preserved in the wine. Its intense

aroma, characterized by a musky flavour, acid and sugar

balance and moderate alcohol content, recalls acacia

flowers, wisteria, orange and mountain honey. The spicy

background note, instead, recalls elderflower, yarrow, and

bergamot.

In recent years, Asti producers have taken the designation

down the innovation route, leading to the creation of new

types of wine based on their residual sugar: Asti from

Demi-Sec to Extra dry, via Dry or Secco in 2017.

For Moscato d’Asti Docg, after the Controlled and

Guaranteed Denomination of Origin ‘Asti’ was introduced

in 1993, two different designations were created from

the same vineyards. Moscato d’Asti Docg is one of the

most typical products of Piedmontese viticulture. Its main


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

characteristic is an intense musky aroma imparted by

the grapes from which it is made, a delicate flavour

reminiscent of wisteria and lime, peach and apricot

with hints of sage, lemon and orange blossom, a sugary

component and low alcohol content. It is important to

reiterate that Moscato d’Asti Docg is not a sparkling wine,

as it undergoes minimum re-fermentation in autoclaves,

which is stopped when an alcohol content of about 5%

vol is reached.

Both these wines represent, albeit in different ways,

the brightness and aromatics of a varietal that is often

underestimated but which boasts the complexity (terpene

precursors have a truly unique capacity to develop) and

the versatility typical of excellent grapes.

BROAD GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION

For almost 100 years, the Consorzio per la tutela

dell’Asti Docg [Consortium for the Protection of Asti

Docg] has been protecting and raising the profile of

these denominations. It was officially established on

December 17, 1932, and initially recognized in 1934

with the name of “Consorzio per la Difesa dei Vini Tipici

Moscato d’Asti Spumante e Asti Spumante” [Consortium

for the Protection of the Typical Wines Moscato d’Asti

Spumante and Asti Spumante].

Moscato Bianco grapes have wide geographical

distribution. They are grown over approximately

10,000 hectares divided between 51 localities in

the provinces of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo. Over

1,400 hectares have an incline of more than 40% and,

out of these, 330 hectares have a gradient higher than

50%: these vineyards have historically been nicknamed

‘SORÌ’, where due to the steep slopes, it is impossible to

use mechanical devices, and work can only be done by

hand. The Asti hills were the first wine hills to be listed

as UNESCO World Heritage.

1,013 companies belong to the consortium, divided

between 50 sparkling wine producers, 778 vine growers,

153 wineries, 17 winemakers and 15 co-operative

The Asti Spumante Docg by the Abbazia di San Gaudenzio

winery is a typical sparkling wine from Piedmont, ideal for

desserts, fruit and pastries


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

Lorenzo Barbero, chairman of the Consorzio dell’ Asti e del Moscato

d’Asti Docg

Giacomo Pondini, director of the Consorzio dell’Asti e Moscato d’Asti Docg

wineries. Annual production is usually around 85 million

bottles, of which about 50 million are Asti Docg, and

the remaining 35 million are Moscato d’Asti Docg.

Additionally, 85% of production is exported.

I interviewed Lorenzo Barbero, the new chairman of the

Consorzio per la tutela dell’Asti Spumante e del Moscato

d’Asti Docg, and Giacomo Pondini, its director, about the

future of these designations.

- Chairman, what is your vision of the production of Asti

Spumante and Moscato d’Asti Docg today?

My vision is that of a wine which is part of a great Italian

tradition but satisfies modern tastes and is increasingly striving

to be a touchstone for the Moscato grape globally. Recent

changes to specifications will allow producers to provide Asti

Spumante with different residual sugar levels, thereby creating

a stylistic variety that will always have as its core this vine’s

uniqueness and its region of origin.

- What are the projects you are committed to carrying out?

Many initiatives have already been launched by the outgoing

administration, which we are committed to carrying on. First

of all, strengthening the bond between Moscato Bianco for Asti

and Moscato d’Asti producers and the region. We are planning

to achieve this goal through over 20 roundabouts to convey a

message to those passing through these areas, whether they are

tourists or residents, about the cultural and social importance

of these landscapes, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage

Site. At national level, an ongoing communication campaign

is designed to put the designation back in the spotlight for

a consumer audience. Also, the campaign with our chef

ambassador Alessandro Borghese continues in 2021. The

campaign offers us great opportunities to explain how these

wines can be appreciated even outside their usual pairing with

desserts.

Foreign promotion remains a fundamental aspect of our

thrust for Asti spumante and Moscato d’Asti. EC tenders are

important tools: exports of our Asti Spumante and Moscato

d’Asti wines cover over 85% of production, and to maintain

this market share, we must continuously put forward new

initiatives. In compliance with Covid-19 restrictions, we


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

are planning initiatives in North America, a particularly

important market for Moscato d’Asti, and for the Russian

market, which is of great relevance to Asti Spumante. Our

three-year promotion project in Asian countries is on standby,

but it will restart as soon as the general situation permits.

Over the next three years, we would like to focus on

sustainability and working on a certification for the region,

not only as a goal for individual companies but as a principle

shared by the whole community.

- Director, what are the prospects for the designation after

such a complex year?

2020 ended with an 8.5% increase in Asti Spumante

and Moscato d’Asti bottle production compared to 2019.

Expectations for the beginning of 2020 were not that rosy,

and even the general situation certainly did not bode well.

Some markets have strengthened from a sales perspective - the

USA and Great Britain above all - but Italy suffered a decline.

This is primarily due to the Italian Horeca sector’s slowdown,

the main sales channel in Italy for our products. Therefore,

once the current limitations have been overcome, our goal is

to regain a strong presence in Italy, which should be our base

and provide support to maintain the kind of popularity the

designation is experiencing worldwide.

The following is a selection of the most representative

companies in the region and the two Asti designations.

Moscato d’Asti Docg vineyards seen from above. An incredible landscape for

vibrant wines

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE

This company stems from the Isolabella della Croce

family’s deep bond with Loazzolo, a small town

between Langa and Monferrato, where the smallest DOC

designation in Italy, Loazzolo Vendemmia Tardiva, is

located. The vineyard covers 14 hectares nestled amidst

woodland. It is well-known for the production of

Moscato d’Asti. The high-elevation vineyards in Loazzolo

are particularly suited to the production of Moscato,

as they have generally loose marl limestone soils. The

grapes are still manually harvested in crates to preserve

the highest quality of fruit that will be destemmed and

crushed using gentle pressing. The second fermentation

Isolabella della Croce’s vineyards cover 14 hectares nestled amidst woodland


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

The vineyards of Isolabella della Croce, located in a hilly area in Loazzolo,

are particularly suited to growing Moscato

The Vinc’ e Voij wine bar overlooks the vineyards at Vinchio Vaglio

and is the starting point of the Nests’ Trail

is done at controlled temperatures, and once the wine

has reached 5 degrees of alcohol, it is arrested using

refrigeration. Before proceeding with sterile bottling,

tartaric stabilization is carried out. Fining takes one

month in the bottle before the wines are released for sale.

These wines show outstanding balance between residual

sugar and a fresh, savoury perception due to the area’s

particular soil and weather conditions.

VINCHIO VAGLIO

Vinchio Vaglio is a co-operative founded in 1959 based

on an idea by 19 vine growers from two small towns,

Vinchio and Vaglio Serra, in the upper Monferrato,

today the core of the UNESCO areas. The co-operative

represents 192 families of vine growers who take care

of 450 hectares of vineyards every day. Although they

mainly grow Barbera, they view Moscato as an essential

link with the region. The soil composition is mainly

calcareous and sandy in Vinchio and predominantly

clayey in Vaglio. The co-operative combines very

traditional vineyard management techniques, almost

heroic due to the steepness of the vineyards, and hand

harvesting, with modern practices such as the use of

temperature-controlled steel tanks and a high-tech

bottling line, protecting the environment thanks to the

installation of solar panels.

In this area, almost all the farmers traditionally had

a few rows of Moscato to make a few bottles of sweet

wine, sometimes unfiltered, designed to be drunk

at Christmas and on holidays. The evolution of this

tradition is precisely what links Vinchio Vaglio to

Moscato d’Asti Docg and Asti Docg. The inclusion

of members from neighbouring small towns and the

increase in the areas planted to Moscato, well-suited to

the less sandy and more clayey soils in those areas, led

the winery to adapt and undergo modernisation for the

production of Valamasca, an excellent Moscato d’Asti

Docg, and subsequently also to sparkling winemaking

with Asti Docg.


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

MARENCO VINI

The company was founded in 1925 by Michele Marenco,

whose dream was to make wine using grapes from his

vineyard in the heart of the Bagnario di Strevi Valley, a land

with an excellent wine-growing tradition. Giuseppe, his

son, started the company’s evolution process by gradually

buying the best land in Monferrato. In 1956 he built the

winery in the centre of Borgo Alto di Strevi to get closer to

the train station from where he could ship the wine to his

customers. Today, Giuseppe’s three daughters, Michela,

with her husband Giovanni Costa the company’s manager,

Doretta and Patrizia, are carrying on the family dream.

Andrea Costa, the eldest son of Michela and Giovanni,

joined the company in 2014 and tells me about Strevi’s

historical connections to the production of Moscato, so

much so that it is specified in the production regulations as

a particularly traditional and favourable sub-area.

“Our cellar and a large part of our vineyards have been

in Strevi since 1925. We still have the old Dutch jute

sacks used for filtering Moscato until the 1970s in our

cellar. We are one of the Piedmont companies known as

‘Moscatiste’ that produce Moscato entirely from their own

grapes. The fact that we currently have a range of 6 different

wines produced from 100% Moscato Bianco shows how

important Moscato is for us”.

Marenco produces several Moscato d’Asti ‘crus’, such as

Scrapona and the related raisin-based wine, Strevi DOC.

The company carries out in-depth studies into how Moscato

vines produce their precious aroma, to safeguard them from

climate change. The Strevi area is located south-east of the

Moscato d’Asti production area. It is an early-ripening area

as it is slightly warmer than the other suitable areas. The

Ligurian Apennines are less than 10 km away and ensure

the wine region’s natural climate control. The sandy soils

are rich in limestone, preserving good acidity even in

the very hot summers of late. The resulting wine is more

delicate in its aromas with a full mouthfeel, thanks to high

sugar content, that is always balanced by good minerality

and acidity.

Some of Marenco’s vineyards located in the Strevi area, south-east of the

Moscato d’Asti production area

The Moscato vineyards belonging to Marenco, in the Bagnario di Strevi

Valley, covered with snow


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

The Santero Family owns and manages the Abbazia di San Gaudenzio Winery, a heritage of great historical and cultural importance

CASA VINICOLA ABBAZIA

Casa Vinicola Abbazia belonging to the Santero family

is located in Santo Stefano Belbo, a small town between

Monferrato, Langhe and Roero. The landscape is unspoilt

and rich in the unique biodiversity typical of Monferrato

and these areas. The company has 60 hectares of vineyards

but also sources grapes from long-standing suppliers. “Land

has never betrayed anyone” is one of Mario Santero’s

mottos. “If you give it the right attention, it will give

you good results in return. Our wine stems from correct

exposure and the best soil, expert pruning and the ability to

manually choose the ripest bunches. That’s how we obtain

unique aromatic profiles, bright and lasting colours, fuller,

velvety and balanced flavours that make our Moscato a

reference point for balance and pleasantness”.


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

F.LII MARTINI SECONDO LUIGI

Since 1947 Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi has believed

and invested in the wine heritage and socio-economic

characteristics of places of origin, which are the

foundations of its success. It is the largest family-run

company producing Asti and Moscato d’Asti Docg in

its area, thanks to its 1,200 suppliers. This is a great

example of co-operation ensuring the planting and then

nurturing of most of the Moscato vineyards in the area.

Safeguarding the region, farming the historic vineyards

with the utmost care and encouraging agricultural

work and the continuity of traditions is the company’s

mission, which has always produced good results. Being

in tune with nature and enhancing its connection

with the region from a farming and people perspective

are essential components of this prestigious winery’s

evolution.

The Martini family has always loved the perfect design

of vineyards that human hands created on the rolling

hills, especially those of Langa, and does everything

to preserve them. With their gentle ridges overlooking

endless landscapes, the hills inspire and encourage them

to go further, and Fratelli Martini cannot resist following

this call with respect and mindfulness.

In the cellar, the Moscato grapes are vinified with the

most modern techniques and winemaking technology.

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi spa markets a number of

brands such as Casa Sant’Orsola, Canti, 35 Parallelo,

Collezione Marchesini and Il Cortigiano, which typify

the Italian spirit across the globe. Among them, I

recommend the Moscato d’Asti Docg Canti, which is

available worldwide.

Gianni Martini in the cellar belonging to fratelli Martini Secondo

Luigi in Cossano Belbo, one of the most important in Italy

BOSIO FAMILY ESTATES

The Bosio family established their own wine business in

Santo Stefano Belbo. Today the family is represented by

Valter and Luca Bosio, father and son, and Rosella, their

respective wife and mother.

Their vision has evolved over the years, blending

The Bosio family combines tradition and innovation, from the

vineyard to the glass


ITALY

– DISCOVERY –

The Bosio family’s vineyards in Santo Stefano Belbo

traditions and enhancing the region’s excellence. Grapes

are grown with respect in these unique and unspoilt sites

made up of woodlands and vineyards, villages and artcentric

cities. The wine, therefore, not only epitomises

‘Made in Italy’ quality but also the cultural background

of its origins.

Although it has a firm local rooting, the company

has global exposure. Since production regulations were

changed, Bosio Family Estates has introduced some new

labels. One of them is its Asti Docg Secco single-vintage.

This sparkling wine preserves the distinctive aromatic

terpenes of Moscato, but foregoes residual sugar in favour

of a drier mouthfeel. Its dry, fresh flavours create new

sensations and pave the way for more sophisticated food

pairings that do not restrict Moscato to a simple pudding

wine. I am a firm believer in the success of Asti Secco

Docg as it can offer contrasting impressions: its nose

aromas are suggestive of a sweet wine but then you find

yourself sipping a dry, savoury wine.


UNITED KINGDOM

– IMPORTER –

Boutinot prides itself on having winemakers, tractors and vineyards in the UK, southern Rhone, Piemonte and Franschhoek

BOUTINOT WINES

“A business built on great people

and fantastic quality”

Boasting a history spanning back over forty years, Boutinot is a household name

in wine distribution and production, revolving around “great people and fantastic

quality”. Its UK head Shaun English explains how the company is keeping its finger

on the pulse of the fast-moving wine market.

By Ellen Budge - Photographs: courtesy of the estates

Originally a strong advocate of French wines,

Boutinot now sources wines worldwide from a

complimentary combination of international

wine producers and its own wineries.

It sells over 40 million bottles a year across

60+ countries. Covering every route to market in the UK,

from e-commerce, national retail, wholesale and on-trade

to independent retail, it prides itself on its close ties with the

supply side. “We have winemakers, tractors and vineyards

in the UK, southern Rhone, Piemonte and Franschhoek,

which enables us to taste, touch, feel and smell our great

own production wines”, explains Shaun English. These

ties extend to its 150-plus partner producers, and are

proving to be extremely valuable in the volatile Coviddriven

world. “Our criteria for selecting our suppliers

haven’t changed in the past 12 months, but many of the

qualities we look for have been really important to us –

trustworthiness and reliability being the most important.”

Drawing on consumer and industry-driven feedback along

with recognition in the form of accolades and reviews,

Boutinot is riding the crest of consumer enthusiasm for

more esoteric regions such as Georgia, Lebanon and

Austria, along with organic offerings from Chile and

Spain and German wines. It is also enjoying success with

red and rosé Costieres, Provence rosés and Gamay from

Beaujolais or neighbouring localities, in addition to as yet

under-the-radar wines from areas such as Côtes de Thau,

plus entry-level California, due to “increased presence and

better sourcing”. Ultimately, the company is now readying

to resume business as usual post-Covid restrictions: “From

June 21 st and the hopeful full removal of lockdown –

I think I can speak for all in the trade both customers,

suppliers and consumers – we cannot wait to be back out

there. Safely of course!”


Roberta Deflorian, Sales

and Marketing Director for

Schenk Italian Wineries

ITALY

– WINE GROWER PORTRAIT –

Schenk Group

From Switzerland

to the world

The Schenk Group ranks amongst the world’s largest wine companies and yet it

rarely makes the headlines. We take a behind-the-scenes look at how it has evolved

since its advent in 1893, with a particular focus on its Italian branch,

Schenk Italian Wineries.

By Ellen Budge - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


ITALY


Schenk Italian Wineries has its head office in Ora, near Bolzano in the province of South Tyrol

VERTICAL INTEGRATION

The small town of Rolle, in Switzerland’s Vaud

wine region on the shores of Lake Geneva,

is the birthplace of the Schenk Group. It is

from here that the company’s founder Charles

Schenk, then his son Arnold, set out to build a

pan-European empire that currently embraces

3,500 hectares of owned and managed vineyards and

numerous subsidiary companies. “What makes Schenk

unique”, says Roberta Deflorian, sales director for Schenk

Italian Wineries, “is that the Group has always focused

solely on wine, and nothing else, for nearly 130 years”.

With fourth-generation François Schenk at its helm, it is a

vertically integrated firm, encompassing every aspect of the

wine industry, from winegrowing through to bottling and

sales, with distribution companies and wineries in France,

Italy, Spain, Germany, Benelux, the United Kingdom and

more recently, the United States. Although it has a strong

Swiss base, it markets wines not only across Europe but to

all the world’s leading consumer markets, including Italy,

the US, Russia, Asia and Scandinavia.

TRANSITIONING WITH THE CONSUMER

Its development and investments align with three core

values: its family commitment; a spirit of enterprise and


ITALY


innovation; and aiming for excellence. Over the decades,

it has successfully pivoted from bulk to bottled wines,

following shifts in consumer patterns. Its first overseas

subsidiary company based in Sète, southern France, echoes

its market-centric approach. “Sète was founded during

the First World War for supplying bulk wines”, recounts

Deflorian. “Now, France is a producer country of estate

wines with little gems in Burgundy and Côtes du Rhône

and with one of the most important buyers of En Primeur

Grands Crus and distributors of Bordeaux”.

In 2020, Schenk Italian Wineries produced 51 million bottles of wine

THREE FLAGSHIP WINERIES

Its Italian operations, founded in 1952 in Reggio Emilia

then relocated to Ora in South Tyrol in 1960, have

undergone the same sea change. “Today’s Schenk Italian

Wineries is a completely different company from its

origins when it was a supplier of bulk wines, mainly

for companies within the Group”, explains Deflorian.

“Nowadays, Schenk Italian Wineries has three wholly

owned wineries – Kellerei Auer in Alto Adige; Bacio Della

Luna in Valdobbiadene; and Lunadoro in Tuscany – and

its brands are recognised worldwide”. The three wineries

are the company’s flagships but its footprint covers the

major Italian wine regions that are Trentino Alto Adige,

Sicily, Piedmont, Veneto, Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzo,

Puglia and Sardinia, where its 10 winemakers follow the

entire production process. As one of Italy’s largest wine

producers, its production credentials are impressive: it

has a total vat capacity of 152,000 hectolitres and 1,500

hl of wines aged in barrels; its bottling lines have a

combined capability of 350,000 bottles a day and its

annual production is in the range of 48-50 million bottles.

The Bacio della Luna winery is located in Valdobbiadene

CAPITALISING ON ITALY’S VINOUS DIVERSITY

But Schenk Italian Wineries is not about clocking up statistics

– it is about a close connection with the regions where it

has a foothold, and ensuring that each one over-delivers

on site-expressiveness. From the Alpine microclimate and

dolomitic soils around the Kellerei Auer winery in South

Tyrol to the medium-elevation Montepulciano vineyards

of Lunadoro which bask in Mediterranean sunshine, the

scope for diversity is extensive. Bacio della Luna, set in the

DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

area, factors bubbles into the equation. Other Italian

regions allow the company to tap into the boundless range


ITALY


of international and native grape varieties the country

is renowned for. Portfolio staples such as Barbera and

Nebbiolo are joined by varieties such as Grillo, Nero

d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Frappato. Similarly, the

company makes full use of traditional and innovative

winemaking techniques, from slow barrel maturation to

‘appassimento’, where the grapes are dried in the vineyard

to concentrate flavours.

INNOVATING THROUGH E-COMMERCE

Core values at Group level filter down through all

the subsidiary companies and Schenk Italian Wineries

illustrates this to perfection. Innovation is pivotal to its

development, as evidenced by its response to the Covid

crisis in 2020. “The Horeca segment suffered from Covid

but we managed to compensate with our offer in the other

off-trade channels that we supply, and we immediately

invested in a new e-commerce platform”. Geared to the

domestic market, Vineria43 is performing very well. “It is

a small e-commerce shop – we are not competing with the

sector’s giants”, says Deflorian. “We just want to provide

our customers with an additional service during lockdown

and also for the future as habits have changed”.

Barrel maturation at Lunadoro is used alongside cutting edge techniques

DYNAMIC PRODUCT RANGE

The company’s multi-channel distribution network

enabled it not just to weather the storm in 2020, but to

post a 4% increase in revenue, which rose to 115 million

euros from a production output of 51 million bottles.

Its increased presence in multiple retail offset losses in

the hospitality industry, though the reopening of Horeca

outlets met with a surge in demand. Its success can be

ascribed not only to its ability to pivot swiftly to new

distribution channels, but also to its product innovations.

2020 saw the launch of its Bacio della Luna Prosecco

DOC Rosé Millesimato 2019 Extra Dry, and the company

has also revisited classic Piedmont varieties Nebbiolo and

Barbera, whilst introducing consumers to local varieties

under its organic Masso range. Deflorian offers her

explanation for why the company’s wines hit the right

spot: “Good quality, very nice packaging and the right

price”.

SUSTAINABILITY A KEY FOCUS

Perhaps one of the most meaningful developments in the

company is its focus on sustainability. Italy is renowned

Alessio Zanardo, one of the winemakers at Bacio della Luna


ITALY


A part of the winemaking team at Schenk Italian Wineries

for its pledge to organic winegrowing, but Schenk Italian Wineries

has pushed the envelope in its interpretation of sustainability,

attaching importance not only to its environmental stewardship but

also to social progress. Despite the challenges of 2020, the company

continued to make significant headway in its environmental

commitments, securing Equalitas certification at the start of this

year for its main winery. The certification implies introducing good

practice in the winery and out in the field. It is based on objective

and measurable data, from soil and water biodiversity indices to

water and carbon footprints, through good processing practices

for environmental sustainability to management control and data

transparency for economic sustainability.

A WORK IN PROGRESS

A further aspect is ethical sustainability: since 1997, Schenk

Italian Wineries has rolled out initiatives such as scholarships for

employees’ children based on scholastic merit, a nursery service

and smartworking. Concurrently with this, it has been instrumental

in reducing its usage of water and energy. The introduction of a

4.0 bottling line at its production and cellar facilities in Ora, near


ITALY


Bolzano, has led to a 6.7% decrease in water consumption

and 6.5% drop in electricity. The facilities at Bacio della

Luna have similarly been certified APE for their energy

usage and will be updated to the 4.0 bottling line by

2022. Lunadoro in Tuscany is now heading towards

Equalitas certification and has just been entirely converted

to organic.

PROMOTING WINE TOURISM

Tying in with its environmental stewardship is its

commitment to wine tourism. Italy is famed for its

agriturismo network and Schenk Italian Wineries is

planning to extend its reach by developing its hospitality

activities as soon as travel is back on the agenda. “Wine

tourism is very important to us in areas like Valdobbiadene

and Tuscany”, stresses Deflorian. “We are planning to

develop a hospitality programme in Lunadoro in Tuscany,

with tastings and cellar visits. We are working on a similar

project along with a small wine shop for our wines at Bacio

della Luna”. In the meantime, the company continues to

invest in winery innovations, other product launches and

communications thrusts. It plans to roll out a new range

from Campania in 2021, along with a new classic method

sparkling wine from its Bacio della Luna facilities, to

coincide with the tenth anniversary of the winery. Other

releases are still under wraps. “We always have to keep

our brains turned on and evolve, for products, ideas and

technology”, says Deflorian. “We will never stop!”

Schenk Italian Wineries is looking to develop its

hospitality facilities as soon as travel is back on the

agenda

LOOKING AHEAD

Despite the challenges thrown up by the Covid crisis, the

company is optimistic for this year. “2021 will be another

difficult year, but we will continue to invest within the

company and in the marketplace with our partners. We

strongly believe in long-term partnerships and in hard

times, support is especially important”. Her optimism is

shared by CEO Daniele Simoni: “Our goal is to continue

to grow and consolidate the positioning of our brands

in Italy and the world. For this reason, we are already

planning, for the second half of 2021, some events

capable of driving tourism in Italy. We want to imagine

[2021] as a rebirth. We believe that when these sad times

end, people will have an even greater desire to travel, to

meet up and enjoy good wine and food in the company

of others. We will be by their side”.

The vineyards at Lunadoro in the beautiful Tuscan countryside


The cool, rugged mountain ridges of the Piekenierskloof plateau

SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

Off the beaten track

In the Covid-19 era, people are craving authentic experiences and heart-warming

connections. Here are some of the hidden gems along South Africa’s less

well-known wine routes.

By Joanne Gibson - Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

Piekenierskloof majority shareholders Oubaas and Potgieter van Zyl

Although South Africa’s winelands are relatively

small, with fewer than 100,000 hectares of vines

planted, there are more than 100 appellations in

the country’s Wine of Origin (WO) classification

scheme. Most are within a 100 km radius of Cape

Town, from historic Constantia and Stellenbosch

to ‘revolutionary’ newcomer Swartland, but for those wishing

to make new and exciting discoveries, it’s worth taking the road

less travelled…

WEST COAST WINE ROUTE

Even today, the Piekenierskloof mountain vineyards near

Citrusdal seem remote when in fact they are an easy 160 km

drive north of Cape Town. The first Grenache is said to have

been planted in this rugged terrain in the 1700s, thriving so

well that today many top South African producers come here

for unirrigated old-vine Grenache, much of it planted on its

own rootstock. Grenache is also a key focus for local winery

Piekenierskloof Wines, whose wide range includes a Grenache

Noir, Blanc, Rosé and two blends.

“Our high elevation (650 m average) combined with our

Grenache focus makes us a unique yet very accessible wine

destination,” says majority shareholder Oubaas van Zyl.

Grenache aside, Piekenierskloof’s top-scoring wines in the

Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge included the


SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

After almost two decades at Durbanville wine estate Meerendal, Liza

Goodwin is now the winemaker at Fryer’s Cove

Chardonnay 2020 (93 points) and the Johan van Zyl

Old Vine Pinotage 2018 (92).

Some 150 km north-west of Citrusdal, near the Atlantic

Ocean seaside town of Doring Bay, what once seemed an

“impossible dream” has become an exciting reality for

local farmer Jan van Zyl and his father, Ponk, who were

inspired by the wines of Marlborough in New Zealand to

plant vines 500 m from the sea. Arid conditions meant

they first had to dig a 30 km pipeline to the closest source

of freshwater – and then they simply converted an old

crayfish factory into a winery! “Icy seawater is pumped

through the tanks to cool the wine during fermentation,”

says winemaker Liza Goodwin. Goodwin – a mindset of

ingenuity and minimalism for wines “forged of the earth,

tempered by the sea.”

Goodwin explains that in addition to persistent sea

breezes, a cool blanket of mist continually deposits salt

onto the leaves and grapes, not only preventing vineyard

diseases but also adding a vivid minerality to the wines.

In particular, the “superb” Pinot Noir 2018 has received

a 93-point rating from Gilbert & Gaillard.

After 17 vintages, Strandveld winemaker Conrad Vlok

knows his challenging terroir intimately

COASTAL ROADS

South Africa’s traditional winegrowing areas are rarely

50 km from the sea, with the cold Atlantic meeting the

warmer Indian Ocean at Cape Agulhas, the southernmost

tip of Africa (220 km from Cape Town). The rich natural

biodiversity of this windswept and rugged area, believed

to have adjoined Antarctica 330 million years ago, is

“magical” according to Jackie Rabé, sales and marketing

director at Strandveld Vineyards. “No modern architecture,

galleries, pretention, traffic or light pollution; just downto-earth

people with a passion for the harsh environment

in which they live and farm.”

Having now completed his 17th vintage at Strandveld,

winemaker Conrad Vlok focuses on only a few varieties

that can handle the extreme growing conditions.

“Sauvignon Blanc is hands down the best-performing

grape in our area,” he says, delighted with the 92-point

rating from Gilbert & Gaillard for his “beautiful”

Pofadderbos Sauvignon Blanc 2020, named after the

eponymous puff adders often encountered here. “It’s

the most site-specific of our wines, grown in yellow iron


SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

ferricrete soil. The terroir pushes the vines to their limit,

resulting in lower yields with concentrated flavours and

saline minerality.”

In the hills just above the nearby seaside town of

Gansbaai (famous for shark cage diving), Lomond

also produces wines that capture the imagination of

wine explorers, from two single-vineyard expressions

of Sauvignon Blanc (named Sugarbush and Pincushion

after endemic flowers) to the “voluptuous” Syrah-led

Belladonna SMV 2018 (94 points). “When having a

glass of wine next to our beautiful dam, you really get

the feeling that you are in touch with nature,” says

winemaker Hannes Meyer.

David Nieuwoudt of Cederberg Private Cellar (near

Citrusdal) was irresistibly drawn to this “extreme and

mysterious” coastline, known for at least 130 shipwrecks,

to make his Ghost Corner wines, with his “ageworthy”

Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Semillon 2017 and white Bordeaux

blend The Bowline 2018 all scoring 92 points. “I came

to Cape Agulhas because I wanted to make the best

Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa, and all fingers pointed

here: the unique lime-rich soils, the wind which has a huge

cooling effect, and enough rain so the vines aren’t stressed.

I absolutely believe it’s the best area for Sauvignon Blanc

but what really makes it special is the people – they are so

down to earth and they love what they do.”

Determined to make SA’s ultimate Sauvignon Blanc, Cederberg wine farmer

David Nieuwoudt says all fingers pointed to Agulhas

GARDEN ROUTE

Some 520 km from Cape Town, on the beautiful Garden

Route, lies the popular tourist destination of Plettenberg

Bay. Over the past two decades, vineyards have been

established along a 57 km strip in very diverse terrain:

close to the Indian Ocean, at the edge of indigenous

forests, at the base of craggy mountains, alongside

polo fields and in view of ponies, dairy cows and even

elephants!

Grapes were first planted at Bramon Estate in 2001,

when Anton Smal was lured away from Stellenbosch.

He’s now firmly established in “Plett”, consulting to a

number of producers including Newstead Lund Family

Vineyards, Kay + Monty Vineyards and Bitou Vineyards.

It was a visit to New Zealand that inspired former sugar

and dairy farmers Doug and Sue Lund of Newstead to

Doug and Sue Lund were inspired to make wine at Newstead

following a visit to New Zealand


David Nieuwoudt of Cederberg

Private Cellar, nurturing the grapes

for his Ghost Corner range

Piekenierskloof majority shareholders Potgieter and Oubaas van Zyl

An old stable block has been converted to house

the Strandveld tasting room

Marinda Kruger-Claassen

Sebastian Beaumont is the

winemaker and viticulturist at his

family’s historic farm

Shannon Vineyards viticulturist

James Downes

Raka, just inland from Stanford,

specialises in red wine production

A beautiful outdoor tasting area at Elgin Vineyards

A wine farm with paddock views: Kay + Monty

Gabriëlskloof’s experimental ‘Projects’

range

SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

plant vines here, finding the geography and cool climate

comparable – the temperatures, sunlight hours and nighttime

breezes especially favourable for Sauvignon Blanc,

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “There is something special

about such a young wine route,” they say. “We’re witnessing

the beginning of something and it’s very romantic.”

Newstead’s wines – and in particular its traditionalmethod

sparkling wines – have put Plettenberg Bay on

the fine wine map in recent years, with recent accolades

including a 94-point Gilbert & Gaillard rating for the

“finessed” Newstead Méthode Cap Classique Brut 2015

and 92 for the “refined and layered” Sauvignon Blanc.

At Kay + Monty, the late Chick Legh’s polo and wine

estate overlooking horse paddocks towards a nature

reserve, an old greenhouse has been transformed into

a tasting room restaurant with rustic charm, described

as “the perfect place to unwind with a glass of delicious

wine” (such as the SAV Sauvignon Blanc 2019 with

90 points).

At Bitou the playing fields were completely converted

to vineyards in 2008, while the old stable block was

transformed into a new cellar only last year. Here, one

of only two bottle-fermented Sauvignon Blancs in South

Africa is produced, the Méthode Cap Classique Brut 2017

achieving a 91-point rating while the “fragrant and layered”

off-dry Sauvignon Blanc 2020 scored 90. Says general

assistant Tanya Pretorius: “The Garden Route is well known

for its big tourist attractions, and with the boutique wine

estates coming along, what more can one ask for?”

Plettenberg Bay winegrowing expert Anton Smal oversees

production for Newstead Lund Family Vineyards, Bitou

Vineyards and Kay + Monty Vineyards

WORTH STOPPING

To reach Plettenberg Bay from Cape Town, you take the

N2 highway, which winds over Sir Lowry’s Pass to the

Elgin Valley, a cool upland amphitheatre cradled between

the Hottentots-Holland and Kogelberg mountains.

Just 60 km from Cape Town, with arguably the most

“continental” climate in the Cape winelands, Elgin is one

of South Africa’s largest exporters of deciduous fruit. In

recent years it has also become famous for its cool-climate

wines, but in no way has it become commercialised.

“It is a beautiful valley that people easily miss as they

speed along the N2,” says Marinda Kruger-Claassen,

business manager/winemaker at Elgin Vintners on

For Bitou general assistant Tanya Pretorius, a love of horses

has evolved into a passion for wine


SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

Marinda Kruger-Claassen, business manager/

winemaker at Elgin Vintners

All vineyard work is done by hand at Gabriëlskloof, whose employment

approach is driven by uplifting the local Bot River community

Ridgelands farm, which dates back to 1890. “Here,

visitors can experience warm country hospitality at its

best.”

Asked to describe her wines, she says she aims for

“complexity, finesse and elegance” – and certainly Gilbert

& Gaillard found her Pinot Noir 2019 “delicate and

integrated” (95 points) and her Chardonnay 2020 “full

but floral and finessed” (92 points).

While the Burgundian varieties have put Elgin on the

map, along with Sauvignon Blanc, there is a farm that

needs to be highlighted for its benchmark Merlot, namely

family-owned Shannon Vineyards on the banks of the

Palmiet River with its swirling morning mist. Here, the

Downes brothers, viticulturist James and marketer Stuart,

are committed to expressing their terroir in “complex,

structured, elegant” wines. Tastings are by appointment

only, but their Mount Bullet Merlot 2017 is definitely

worth tasting (95 points). “It sets us apart from the rest

of the valley and has done incredibly well for us, locally

and internationally.”

From Elgin, the N2 descends via the Houw Hoek pass to the

rolling hills of Bot River, an appellation stretching down to

the Bot River lagoon. This is “where real people make real

wine” (the local credo) with Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and other

Rhone varieties faring particularly well on the Bokkeveld

shale and Table Mountain sandstone soils.

Among the eclectic mix of cellars loved for their

handcrafted wines and rustic charm is family-run

Beaumont Wines. Historic Compagnes Drift farm was

purchased in 1974 by the late Raoul Beaumont and his

wife, Jayne (still actively involved) but son Sebastian

is now in charge as winemaker/viticulturist, his overall

philosophy being “elegance over power”. Gilbert &

Gaillard particularly liked his “perfumed and refined”

Mourvèdre 2017 (93 points) and his “wow” Hope

Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2019, awarding it 95 points.

At relative newcomer Gabriëlskloof, too, their aim

is to make “elegant and honest wines that leave a

lasting impression”, their Landscape Series showcasing

their top vineyard sites, their Projects Range allowing

experimentation with alternative fermentation and

ageing methods (e.g. 89 points for their “balanced”

Wholebunch Syrah 2019).


SOUTH AFRICA

– DISCOVERY –

Raka proprietors Elna and Piet Dreyer (centre) with their four children Jorika, Josef, Gerhard and Pieter

KEEP GOING

Bot River is the gateway to Walker Bay, where Southern Right

whales frolic every spring. The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near

Hermanus is renowned for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but

those wanting to experience something new should keep

driving to the hamlet of Stanford. “Stanford is very laid back

but we have 10 wineries, five within a 2 km radius of the

town,” says David Smit, winemaker/viticulturist at Walker

Bay Estate. “We have the best views of all the wineries, with

rolling lawns overlooking the Kleinrivier Mountain, and

arguably the best wines too!” (He is biased, of course, but his

‘excellent’ Chardonnay 2017 impressed Gilbert & Gaillard

with 94 points.)

Red wine lovers are advised to visit Raka where the entire

Dreyer family is involved, with brothers Josef (winemaker)

and Pieter (viticulturist) proud of a 93-point rating for their

Shiraz 2018. Responsible for marketing, their sister Jorika

says: “We as a family enjoy good-quality red wine and if we

don’t enjoy drinking it, we will not produce and bottle it –

that is our way of quality control!” Their father Piet was a

squid fisherman before establishing Raka, which is why they

describe it as “Born of the sea, guided by the stars, blessed by

the earth.”

Whether you choose to navigate the South African winelands

by the stars or satnav, you are sure to be rewarded with

exciting discoveries. Start here: www.visitwinelands.co.za.


The layout of Leeuwenkuil’s ‘werf’ (farmyard) is exactly the same as it was in the early 1700s

SOUTH AFRICA

– PORTRAIT –

Gateway to the Swartland

Producing award-winning wines from exceptional grapes, Leeuwenkuil Family

Vineyards has a long and proud history – and a focus on the future.

By Joanne Gibson – Photographs: Courtesy of the estates


SOUTH AFRICA

– PORTRAIT –

Leeuwenkuil owners Willie and Emma Dreyer, whose ancestors returned to

Leeuwenkuil seven generations ago

In recent years the Swartland has emerged as one of South Africa’s

most exciting wine appellations, but its southernmost farm,

Leeuwenkuil, dates all the way back to 1693. With views of Table

Mountain to the south-west, the farm’s name translates as Lion’s

Lair, in honour of the ferocious wild animals that used to roam

these parts, but its original name was Schinderkuijl, referring to the

practice of salvaging materials from shipwrecks. While the farmhouse

was mostly built using stone, the lintels above its doors were sourced

from a ship’s hull.

Remarkably, the ‘werf’ or farmyard is still the same as it was in 1704,

when it was owned by Arie van Wyk who planted 8,000 vines and soon

made a living selling wine and bread (200 loaves a day!) to travellers

trekking further inland. Even more remarkably, the current owners

are directly descended from Van Wyk, whose daughter Sara married a

German immigrant named Johannes Augustus Dreyer. Although the

Dreyer family moved away from the Swartland for a few generations,

they returned in 1851.

Today, seventh-generation owner Willie Dreyer and his wife Emma

have developed Leeuwenkuil from a small 45-hectare farm to the largest

vineyard holdings in South Africa! “When we took over the farm, we

had no money but we were young and fearless,” laughs Dreyer. “Our

friends talked about buying new cars; we talked about investing in new

clones. We ploughed all our money into the land. Today we have over

1,200 hectares of vineyard, mainly dryland, with 35% grown as bush

vines. But that does not make us the biggest producer, because yields

are fairly low in the Swartland.”


SOUTH AFRICA

– PORTRAIT –

Willie Dreyer takes a quick coffee break during the harvest at Leeuwenkuil

Head winemaker Pieter Carstens firmly believes in a

natural approach to winemaking

Highly regarded for the exceptional quality of his grapes,

Dreyer is fully committed to sustainable growing practices,

with one of his vineyards – Langvlei – certified as organic.

“I’m merely a custodian of this land for my children,”

says the proud father of five (Anné, Francisce, Helanzi,

Jonike and Willie Jnr). “Our philosophy is a simple one:

put in the hard work and let nature do the rest. Our

grapes are farmed without herbicides or pesticides, and

left to grow with minimal human interference, allowing

natural expressions of our unique Swartland terroir

to emerge.”

To this day, Leeuwenkuil sells most of its fruit to other

wineries, but in 2008 the Dreyers took the decision to

start making and selling wine themselves. From humble

beginnings, renting cellar space, their winemaking team

led by Pieter Carstens steadily built up a reputation for

crafting intriguing, memorable and ultimately awardwinning

wines. However, their dream was always to have

their own cellar at the farm, and with the 2021 harvest

this has finally become a reality, their methodically

thought-out new winery processing some 15,000 tons.

Where many South African wine producers are facing

tough times, with millions of litres of wine unsold

following the government’s series of bans on local alcohol

consumption during Covid-19 lockdowns, Leeuwenkuil

is in a relatively strong position because most of its wine

is exported. “We feel very fortunate,” says Dreyer.

When asked which Leeuwenkuil wines connoisseurs

should look for, Dreyer answers: “We grow many

varieties, including the biggest block of Pinotage in the

world (49 hectares), but for Leeuwenkuil our focus is

on old-vine Chenin Blanc and Syrah, and blends based

on them. These are the cultivars our region can really

brag about.”

Not that the Dreyers ever brag. Instead, they credit

Carstens, their passionate head winemaker, and the MD

of their cellar, Kobus de Kock, who sometimes has to rein

Carstens in when he gets carried away with new ideas.

“The balance in the team is good.”

They conclude by saying: “Every glass of wine tells a story.

A story of its terroir, of droughts, storms, struggles and

surprises. And we can’t wait to write the next chapter.”


STARS

– & WINE –

Stanley Tucci:

A lover of wine and Italy

Stanley Tucci is an American actor, director, producer and scriptwriter specialising in

“geeky” roles. Born in 1960 in Peekskill, near New York, he began his film and television

career in the 1980s and over the next decade, he made his mark in numerous supporting

roles and also starred in the legal drama Murder One. He garnered international acclaim

with blockbuster films including ‘The Devil Wears Prada’, ‘Julie and Julia’ and ‘Lovely

Bones’. His latest screen appearances are in ‘Supernova’, where he falls in love with...

Colin Firth, and a cooking documentary for CNN.

Interview by Frank Rousseau, our correspondent in the United States

Photographs: all rights reserved

You recently featured on the American network CNN in a

very ‘appetising’ mini-documentary food series, ‘Searching

for Italy’, which is also available on YouTube for those who

want to travel from their armchair. For several weeks, you

travelled across Italy tasting the specialities of Tuscany,

Sicily, Rome, Bologna, Naples and the Amalfi coast. Tell us

about the experience...

I come from a family of Italian immigrants and I am very proud

of my heritage. Food has always been an obsession for me. When

I am at the market, at the dinner table or in the kitchen, all my

senses come alive. I have to taste, smell, touch, etc. Basically, I run

around all over the place and stick out like a big stain of fresh

tomato sauce on a newly starched white napkin! (laughs)

You have also written recipe books...

Some of the recipes come from my grandparents, who were

born in Calabria. I remember that we didn’t often go out to

restaurants because our family was broke. So we would stay at

home and prepare simple, cheap meals with really tasty fresh

produce. Like Uova fra diavolo - poached eggs in a marinara

sauce. Every Friday evening my father would make us this for

dinner. Honestly, I could have eaten it every day!

And your first connection with wine?

My father had a big wine press in his basement. Beside it were

also two old oak barrels. Every year he made his own wine

which we drank from small glasses. I remember him decanting

his wine into a carafe that dated back to the 1920s!


STARS

– & WINE –

What is your favourite wine?

Marchesa Gavi Gold Label, from Piedmont. I also enjoy

wines from Tuscany and Sardinia. Chianti never lets you

down either. I also like Californian Chardonnays and

wines from Burgundy. I have nothing against Argentinean

reds and as far as whites go, I tend to serve myself glasses

of Pinot Grigio and Chablis.

Was there one wine, above all the others, that pleasantly

surprised your discerning palate during filming of

your food documentary?

In the episode focusing on Sicily, I was lucky enough to meet

Arianna Occhipinti, a Nero d’Avola organic winegrower

who specialises in Frappato. She runs a small estate and

her wines are very traditional and made with love, which

you can feel! Sicily is the poorest region in Italy and is

unfortunately not very well known yet for the quality of its

wines, despite the fact that they are remarkable.

What was the main thing you learnt when you hosted

your ‘Vine Talk’ show?

The aim of the programme was to promote wine from

different aspects. How to buy it, choose it, taste it, uncork

it, savour it and above all make people understand that

this is not just a world for connoisseurs. Every week, we

would present a new wine region and taste wines blind.

We’d also invite a celebrity and a sommelier so that they

could share their common passion with us!

Are you the type to collect outstanding vintages in a

firmly locked cellar?

I’m not a big spender when it comes to buying wine.

I come from a family that used to live from hand to

mouth. I understand the value of money only too well.

Saying that, I can buy good wines but when I do, I don’t

have the patience to wait. I uncork them as soon as I get

a good opportunity to do so!


CONTACT

– DETAILS –

SOUTH WEST – PAGES 10 – 23

• Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy:

Tel. +33 05 53 58 41 20 -

www.moulin-pouzy.com

• Vinovalie: Tel. +33 05 63 57 18 10 -

www.vinovalie.com

• Mas des Combes: Tel. +33 5 63 57 06 13 -

https://remilarroque.com/

• Plaimont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 62 87 -

www.plaimont.com

• Brumont: Tel. +33 5 62 69 74 67 -

https://www.brumont.fr

• Laffitte brothers:

www.lesfrereslaffitte.com

RHONE VALLEY – PAGES 24 – 33

• Domaine de la Présidente:

Tel. +33 4 90 30 80 34 -

s.gauthier@presidente.fr -

• Château Sixtine: Tel. : +33 4 90 83 70 51 -

jm.diffonty@chateau-sixtine.com

• Domaine de Montine:

Tel. +33 4 75 46 54 21 -

contact@domainedemontine.fr -

www.domaine-de-montine.com

• Domaine des Gravennes:

Tel. +33 4 75 04 84 41 -

contact@domainesdesgravennes.com

• Domaine Lucien Tramier:

Tel. +33 6 44 30 97 41 -

marty@lucientramier.fr

• Domaine de la Présidente:

Tel. +33 4 90 30 80 34 -

s.gauthier@presidente.fr

• Maison Chapoutier:

cchapoutier@chapoutier.com -

www.chapoutier.com

CHAMPAGNE – PAGES 34 – 41

• Champagne Vignon Père & Fils:

Tel. +33 3 26 49 80 39 -

www.champagne-vignon.com

• Champagne Sadi Malot:

Tel. +33 3 26 97 90 48 -

www.champagne-sadi-malot.com

• Champagne Madame Raymonde:

Tel. +33 6 40 53 93 68 -

https://www.madame-raymonde.fr

• La Pitancerie Champagne J.A Dautel:

Tel. +33 3 25 29 39 07 -

www.champagne-lapitancerie.com

• Champagne Virginie T.:

Tel. +33 6 86 30 75 81 -

https://www.champagnevirginiet.com/

• Champagne G. Tribaut:

+33 3 26 59 40 57 - https://champagnetribaut-hautvillers.com

• Champagne Alain Vesselle:

Tel. +33 3 26 57 00 88 -

www.champagne-alainvesselle.fr

BORDEAUX – PAGES 42 – 49

• Vignobles Dulon : Tel. +33 5 56 23 69 16 -

www.vignobles-dulon.com

• Antoine Médeville Labo Oenoconseil

Pauillac: Tel. +33 5 56 59 67 06 -

https://www.oenoconseil.com/pauillac.html

• Altervini: Tel. +33 5 57 77 25 00 -

mviolleau@altervini.com

• Famille Ducourt: Tel. 33 5 57 34 54 00 -

www.ducourt.com

• Château des Landes:

Tel. +33 5 57 74 68 05 -

http://chateau-des-landes.fr/

ALSACE – PAGES 50 – 57

• Maison Charles Frey:

Tel. +33 3 88 92 41 04 -

www.charles-frey.fr

• Domaine Wach: Tel. +33 3 88 08 93 20 -

http://www.guy-wach.fr

• Domaine Huber & Bléger:

Tel. +33 3 89 73 01 12 -

www.huber-bleger.fr

• Wunsch & Mann: Tel. + 33 3 89 22 91 25 -

www.wunsch-mann.fr

• Domaine Schmitt & Carrer:

Tel. +33 3 89 78 24 17 -

www.schmitt-carrer.com

• Domaines Schlumberger:

+33 3 89 74 27 00 -

www.domaines-schlumberger.fr

• Domaine Léon Heitzmann & Clément Klur:

Tel. +33 3 89 47 10 64 -

www.domaine-heitzmann.com

• Domaine Edmond Rentz:

Tel. +33 3 89 47 90 17 -

www.edmondrentz.com

FRUIT BRANDIES PAGES 58-65

• Distillerie Mazy: Tel. +33 6 87 23 56 65 -

https://distillerie-mazy.fr

• Distillerie Hagmeyer:

Tel. +33 3 88 50 38 99 -

www.distillerie-hagmeyer.com

• Distillerie JP Metté: Tel. +33 3 89 73 65 88 -

https://distillerie-mette.com

• Calvados Drouin: Tel. +33 2 31 64 30 05 -

www.calvados-drouin.com

SPAIN – PAGES 66 – 73

• Bodegas Alceño Jumilla:

Tel. +34 968 78 01 42 - https://alceno.com

• Bodegas Arloren: Tel. +34 966 97 60 29 -

facebook.com/bodegas.arloren -

http://www.arloren.es/

• Bodegas Bleda: +34 968 78 00 12 -

https://www.bodegasbleda.com

• Bodegas Castaño: Tel. +34 968 79 11 15 -

https:/www.bodegascastano.com

• Bodegas La Purísima: Tel. +34 968 751 257 -

https:/www.bodegaslapurisima.com

• Bodegas Murviedro: Tel. +34 96 232 90 03 -

https://murviedro.es/

PORTUGAL – PAGES 74 – 81

• DFJ Vinhos: Tel. +351 243 704 701/5 -

https://dfjvinhos.com/

• Anselmo Mendes: Tel. +351 919 807 407 -

www.anselmomendes.pt


CONTACT

– DETAILS –

• Cantanhede: Tel. +351 231 419 540 -

https://www.cantanhede.com

ITALY – PAGES 82 – 92

• Isolabella Della Croce: Tel. +39 0144 87166 -

www.isolabelladellacroce.it

• Vinchio Vaglio: Tel. +39 0141 950903 -

https://vinchio.com

• Marenco Vini: Tel. +39 0144 363133 -

www.marencovini.com

• Casa Vinicola Abbazia: www.abbazia.it

• F.Lii Martini Secondo Luigi:

Tel. +39 0141 837211 -

www.fratellimartini.it

• Bosio Family Estates: Tel. +39 0141 847149 -

www.bosiofamilyestates.it

UNITED KINGDOM – PAGE 93

• Boutinot wines: Tel. +44 161 908 1300 -

www.boutinot.com

ITALY – PAGES 94 – 99

• Schenk wine: Tel. +41 21 822 02 02 -

https://www.schenk-wine.com

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 100 – 107

• Beaumont Family Wines:

Tel. +27 28 284 9194 - www.beaumont.co.za

• Bitou Vineyards: Tel. +27 82 927 6179 -

www.bitouvineyards.co.za

• Elgin Vintners: Tel. +27 21 848 9587 -

www.elginvintners.co.za

• Fryer’s Cove: Tel. +27 27 215 1092 -

www.fryerscove.co.za

• Gabriëlskloof: Tel. +27 28 284 9865 -

www.gabrielskloof.co.za

• Ghost Corner Wines: Tel. +27 27 482 2827 -

www.ghostcornerwines.com

• Kay + Monty Vineyards:

Tel. +27 79 965 9779 -

www.kayandmonty.com

• Lomond Cape Agulhas Wines:

Tel. +27 28 388 0095 - www.lomond.co.za

• Newstead Lund Family Vineyards:

Tel. +27 76 300 9740 -

www.newsteadwines.com

• Piekenierskloof Wines:

Tel. +27 22 921 2233 -

www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za

• Raka: Tel. +27 28 341 0676 -

www.rakawine.co.za

• Shannon Vineyards: Tel. +27 21 859 2491 -

www.shannonwines.com

• Strandveld Vineyards: Tel. +27-28-482-1902 -

www.strandveld.co.za

• Walker Bay Estate: Tel. +27 28 341 0013 -

www.walkerbayestate.com

Wine Route Websites

• Agulhas Wine Triangle:

www.agulhaswinetriangle.co.za

• Bot River: www.botriverwines.co.za

• Elgin: http://elgingrabouw.co.za

• Plettenberg Bay: www.plettwinelands.com

• Stanford: www.stanfordinfo.co.za

• West Coast:

www.westcoastwineroutes.co.za

SOUTH AFRICA – PAGES 108 – 110

• Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards:

Tel. +27 21 869 8251 -

www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88

Editorial Directors: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard,

François Bezuidenhout, Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, Jamal Awni

Rayyis, James Turnbull

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard

Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier,

Charlie Elaina, Joanne Gibson, Santiago Jiménez, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau,

Alexandra Réveillon, Francesco Saverio Russo, Christelle Zamora.

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Rosa Almeida - CS Traduções, Marika Quarti

Sales and Marketing Director: Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising France:

Bordeaux - Charentes:

Frédéric Comet: +33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - Roussillon:

Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - caroline@gilbertgaillard.com

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com

Advertising Italy:

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Advertising Spain, Portugal:

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Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: Petru Van der walt, General

Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - petru@gilbertgaillard.com -

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mguerrero@gilbertgaillard.com

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal

representative and Editorial director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: First quarter 2021 • Legal publication n° pending • ISSN 2110-6762

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given

for information only and have no publicity purpose.


OUR SELECTION FROM

Pages

116 to 122

TOP

WINES

— ALSACE, CHAMPAGNE, PIEDMONT, MURCIA, VALENCIA, WESTERN CAPE —

The best of Spring 2021

Our Spring 2021 selection, tasted and rated by our tasting panel, is featured on pages 116

to 122. We have chosen to present wines by region (ALSACE, CHAMPAGNE...), then by

appellation in each region, with each company or chateau listed in alphabetical order, and

finally by tasting scores in descending order.

THE TASTING PANEL

FRANCE

FRANCE

FRANCE

Philippe Gaillard

Olivier Delorme

James Turnbull

François Gilbert

SOUTH AFRICA

SOUTH AFRICA

Sylvain Patard

Matthieu Gaillard

François Bezuidenhout

Wine scores

Our tasting notes are scored on a 100 point scale, which gives enough range to evaluate every

characteristic that we taste in a wine. Below are the different levels that make up this scoring:

95-100/100: an outstanding wine, when a great “terroir” meets exceptional winemaking expertise.

90-94/100: a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and remarkable winemaking.

85-89100: a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its typicity and character.

80-84/100: a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for a pleasurable wine drinking experience.

75-79/100: a wine deemed acceptable.

70-74/100: a wine with defects, unacceptable.

65-69/100: a wine with major defects, inadmissible.

50-64/100: unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale.

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications.

SPRING 2021 - GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 115

FRANCE - Alsace

BS_CUVEES_G&G_N°43_Mise en page 1 29/03/2021 11:20 Page 1

DOMAINE HUBER & BLÉGER

90/100

■ Muscat 2019

D Pale gold with brilliant reflections. Nose of fresh

grape, pear, sweet spices and honey. The palate is

fresh and refreshing, driven by crisp fruit and revealing

saline notes with fine sourness on the finish. This

is a beautifully crafted Muscat. Price: € 8.30

PRESENTATION : Marcel Huber and his cousin Robert

Bléger teamed up in 1967 to establish their estate in

Saint-Hippolyte, at the foot of the celebrated Château

du Haut-Koenigsbourg. Seven traditional local grape

varieties form the backbone of their thirty-hectare

vineyard, producing over 250,000 bottles a year. The

property is currently run by Sébastien Huber and Franck

Bléger who have added their own personal touch,

including environmental stewardship. They pick the fruit

by hand and use grass cover and tillage, all of which

has earned them sustainable vineyard management

certification since 1999, subsequently endorsed by

Terra Vitis then HVE (High Environmental Value) in 2018.

The property crafts clearly defined, very pure wines with

this dry Muscat the unquestionable flagship of their

range.

Tel.: +33 3 89 73 01 12

E-mail: domaine@huber-bleger.fr

Website: http://www.huber-bleger.fr

OUR SELECTION OF

ALSACE WINES

Spring is definitely in the air with two

novel varieties well worth rediscovering:

Muscat, of which there are few examples

in the region (2% of production) and

Pinot noir (10%), a good share of which

is used to make rosé Crémant d’Alsace.

ALSACE GRAND CRU MUSCAT

FALLER 87/100

D Kirchberg 2019: Brilliant pale hue with green

tints. Appealing nose combining fresh grape, lychee

and apricot. Soft attack flowing into a fresh, sleek,

focused palate with confident expression, delivering

floral and spice notes. Lovely compelling silky feel.

Price: € 19

http://www.vins-faller-robert.fr

Robert Faller et Fils

+33 3 89 73 60 47

ALSACE MUSCAT

EDMOND RENTZ 89/100

D Vieilles Vignes 2019: Brilliant light gold. Generous

nose of fresh grape with a faint tropical touch. A supple

attack is followed by a soft, ample, juicy palate where

the quality nose aromas flow through. A wine delivering

a welcome sense of harmony well worth trying with

asparagus.

Price: € 9

http://www.edmondrentz.com

Edmond Rentz

+33 3 89 47 90 17

ROBERT KLINGENFUS 89/100

D Clos des Chartreux 2018: Light straw-yellow.

Expressive nose combining fresh grape and fine floral

touches. The palate is plump, tense, dry and light and

gradually unfurls a beautiful array of fine spice and

citrus aromatics. Very precise and energetic. Drink with

elaborate appetisers.

Price: € 14

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com/

Domaine Robert Klingenfus

+33 3 88 38 07 06

THIERRY-MARTIN 85/100

D Cuvée Elise 2018: Light straw-gold. Pleasant

nose combining fresh grape, grapefruit and a floral

accent. Supple attack followed by a soft, plump,

energetic palate delivering clear, lifted aromas. This is

a lovely, easy-going wine that makes a great choice

for the aperitif.

Price: € 6.90

http://www.thierry-martin.com

Thierry-Martin

+33 3 88 04 11 22

ALSACE PINOT NOIR

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 91/100

D Stein 2017: Mature brown highlights. Spicy

oak on the nose with jammy morello cherry and wild

strawberry notes. Full-bodied palate with an inviting

array of red fruits, polished tannins and subtle oak

influence in this refined Alsace red wine.

Price: € 26.40

http://www.domaines-schlumberger.com


+33 3 89 74 27 00

DOMAINE CHARLES FREY 90/100

ORG D F 2017: Fairly deep garnet with bricking.

Elegant nose combining sour cherry, floral notes,

undergrowth and a mineral touch. Velvety, rich, lively

palate framed by silky tannins. The mid-palate is

suffused with delicate spice. An easy-drinking, fine,

precise and very successful wine.

Price: € 30

http://www.vinsfreybio.com

Maison Charles Frey

+33 3 88 92 41 04

DOMAINE LÉON HEITZMANN 90/100

ORG D Cuvée Anne-Marie 2017: Deep garnet

with some bricking. Rich, ripe nose combining morello

cherry, black fruits, fine spices and elegant oakiness.

Smooth, concentrated, gratifying palate revealing

splendidly intense spice and fruit aromas. Taut yet also

full.

Price: € 16

http://www.leon-heitzmann.com

Léon Heitzmann

+33 3 89 47 10 64

DOMAINE SCHMITT ET CARRER 90/100

ORG D Schloessel Mühle 2018: Beautiful dark

hue with amber tints. Generous nose delivering a

combination of prune, morello cherry, fine spices, hay

and subtle oak. Lovely volume on the palate for this

robust wine with welcome concentration and wonderful

deep, iodine-like and spice aromas. An ambitious,

successful offering.

Price: € 18.50

http://www.schmitt-carrer.com

Domaine Schmitt et Carrer

+33 3 89 78 24 17

DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 90/100

D Les Princes Abbés 2017: Light red with garnetbrown

reflections. Nose of ripe cherries and wild

strawberries. The palate displays suppleness woven

around a beautiful crisp, ripe fruit core. Polished tannins

and satisfying length. Delicate varietal expression.

Price: € 15.50

http://www.domaines-schlumberger.com


+33 3 89 74 27 00

EDMOND RENTZ 90/100

D Tradition 2019: Deep garnet-red. Alluring nose

offering up a mix of sour cherry, forest floor and smoke.

116 SPRING 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

FRANCE - Champagne

Pinot noir accounts for approximately 10% of

Alsace’s vineyards.

Ample, robust, lively palate displaying lovely pure

aromatics, an elegant structure still, spice and menthol

accents and substantial freshness.

Price: € 9.10

http://www.edmondrentz.com

Edmond Rentz

+33 3 89 47 90 17


D Terre Rouge 2018: Deep ruby. Promising

nose of morello cherry with herbal, spicy and smoke

notes. Delicate menthol-like, silky, fresh attack then a

harmoniously crafted palate with flavourful purity and

finesse. Mineral, intense and persistent. Wonderful to

savour.

Price: € 15

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com


+33 3 88 38 07 06

DOMAINE KLEIN BRAND 88/100

D Prestige 2018: Bright garnet with ruby highlights.

Inviting nose of morello cherry and undergrowth with a

touch of blackcurrant. Fresh palate displaying fullness,

structure and savoury, intense aromatics showing spice

overtones. Consistent and balanced. In a nutshell, a

very successful Pinot.

Price: Price: N/A

https://www.klein-brand.fr/fr

Domaine Klein Brand

+33 3 89 47 00 08


ORG D Dar Wine 2019: Brilliant orangy hue with

coppery highlights. Generous nose intermixing cherry,

gingerbread and a floral note. Sleek, fresh, satisfying

palate with lovely focused, genuine expression and a

ripe, persistent finish. A great artisanal rosé.

Price: € 10


Léon Heitzmann

+33 3 89 47 10 64

DOMAINE CHARLES FREY 87/100

ORG D Harmonie 2019: Pale red with bricking.

Pleasant nose combining sour cherry with spice notes

and a touch of undergrowth. Harmoniously structured

palate delivering a measure of fullness, elegance and

aromatic precision. A savoury wine pairing with poultry.

Price: € 12

http://www.vinsfreybio.com

Maison Charles Frey

+33 3 88 92 41 04


ORG D Les Katz - Salem 2019: Clear ruby.

Appealing nose marrying sour cherry, raspberry, fine

spices and a floral note. Fresh, rich, structured palate

delivering a generous array of juicy flavours. Spicy,

herbal mid-palate and silky tannins. An intense, focused

and appealing wine.

Price: € 10


Léon Heitzmann

+33 3 89 47 10 64

DOMAINE WACH 87/100

D Spleen 2018: Cherry-red with ruby reflections.

Nose of ripe red and black berry fruits with noble

herbal presence of flowers and wood. Supple palate

showing lightweight concentration and fresh, crunchy

fruit. A wine with life and drive for sharing and fun

times.

Price: € 9.50

http://www.guy-wach.fr

Domaine Wach

+33 3 88 08 93 20


CR D Signature 2018: Bright garnet with dark

purple tinges. Expressive nose of morello cherry and

raspberry with jammy and spicy nuances. Smooth

attack, lovely fresh, elegant, consistent mouthfeel. Great

clarity, richness and light structure. Beautiful.

Price: € 10

http://www.robert-klingenfus.com


+33 3 88 38 07 06

WUNSCH & MANN 87/100

ORG D Clos Rosalys 2018: Deep ruby with dark

purple glints. Expressive nose intermixing raspberry,

morello cherry and an animal touch. The palate is

charming with a light, supple, fresh style, lifted, precise

aromas and intensity. Pairs with red meats.

Price: € 15.90

http://www.wunsch-mann.fr

Maison Wunsch & Mann

+33 3 89 22 91 25

HUBER & BLÉGER 85/100

CR D St-Hippolyte Rouge 2018: The colour is

halfway between ruby and garnet. The nose shows

accents of venison, undergrowth and jammy fruits. The

palate is chewy, fairly warm and dense and reveals

intense, terroir-driven aromatics. Fruit is more forward

on the finish. This is an Alsace that needs to come

round.

Price: € 8.80

http://www.huber-bleger.fr

Huber & Bléger

+33 3 89 73 01 12

OUR SELECTION OF

CHAMPAGNES

Either newly-minted brands or ambitious

winegrowers, these labels offer remarkable

value for money.

CHAMPAGNE ALAIN VESSELLE 92/100

D Brut grand cru Cuvée Saint Eloi : Brilliant pale

gold. Clear suggestions of cherries and raspberries

on the nose. The palate is elegant and chiselled with

sustained freshness and extremely elegant aromas.

Lovely saline touch on the finish.

Price: € 25


Champagne Alain Vesselle

+33 3 26 57 00 88

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT 92/100

D Brut 1er cru Grande Cuvée Spéciale : Beautiful

light yellow. Delicate nose combining white flowers,

a subtle lemony note and mineral undertones. Ample,

ethereal attack supported by a fine yet evident texture.

Lovely trace of firmness on the finish tinged with aromas

recalling fresh wood.

Price: € 24.50

https://champagne-tribaut-hautvillers.com/fr/

Champagne G. Tribaut

+33 3 26 59 40 57

CHAMPAGNE PETIT & BAJAN 92/100

D Brut grand cru Ambrosie : Beautiful light gold.

Compelling fruity nose which is quite intense and yields

an impression of freshness. Wonderful character on

the palate for this fresh, vinous, fleshy Champagne

revealing a mineral and saline touch on the finish. A

very racy offering for festive meals.

Price: € 37

http://champagne-petit-et-bajan.fr

Champagne Petit & Bajan

+33 3 26 52 79 97


D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru Obsidienne : Pale

gold. Very pure nose of red berry fruits with a touch

of biscuit. The palate is vinous, fresh and fleshy. A

highly expressive Champagne that would work with

sweetbreads on festive occasions.

Price: € 46



+33 3 26 52 79 97

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS 92/100

D Extra brut grand cru Les Marquises : Beautiful

brilliant pale gold. Very expressive, charming nose

accented by jammy fruits and bread crust. The palate

is structured and fresh with crystalline aromas. The

finish is long, saline and suffused with sense of place.

Remarkable.

https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/

Champagne Vignon Père & Fils

+33 06 83 05 43 90

SPRING 2021 – GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 117

FRANCE - Champagne


CHAMPAGNE VIGNON

PÈRE & FILS

92/100

■ Extra brut grand cru Réserve des Marquises 2015

D Pale yellow. Complex, evolving nose marrying notes

of ripe fruits and toast. The palate is very clean and

forthright and offers up wonderful aromatic intensity and

delicious salinity on the finish. A Champagne for gourmet

foods. Price: € N.C.

PRESENTATION: The family has lived in Verzenay, in the

heart of the Montagne de Reims for centuries, but only

began making Champagne again in 1946. Today,

Stéphane Vignon, (third generation winemaker), is ensuring

the future of Champagne Vignon with a passion, rigour

and respect for the vineyards . "Let the Wine and Nature

decide" are the key words here of a signature style and

identity. The Champagnes are single-vineyard and all

grown on Grand Cru sites and produced with the

minimum intervention possible. A majority of the wines

spend time in barrels, some made with timber from

family owned forests, using natural yeasts with no fining

or filtering. These are authentic Champagnes of an

exceptionally high standard – the six labels tasted in

2020 were rated from 90 to 92/100.

Tel.: +33 06 83 05 43 90

E-mail: vignon.marquises@orange.fr

Website: https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/


D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Nuit Blanche :

Clear light yellow. Fruity nose with upfront acidity and

richer undertones accented by pastries. The palate

is savoury, velvety and displays wonderfully pure

aromatics. The nose aromas flow through to the finish.

Price: € 44



+33 3 26 52 79 97


D Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Rochelles-Potences

2016: Beautiful brilliant, clear light gold. Expressive,

mineral nose with white fruit tones after airing. The

palate displays fairly complex characters, lushness, ripe

pear tones and a long saline finish.

Price: N/A



+33 06 83 05 43 90


D Brut blanc de noirs grand cru Les Espérances

2016: Light yellow. Nose of fairly ripe red berry fruits.

The palate is beautifully elegant and airy with sweet

spice and red fruit aromas. This is a food-friendly

Champagne pairing with, say, poultry.

Price: N/A



+33 06 83 05 43 90


D Extra brut grand cru rosé Les Vignes Goisses

2015: Beautiful light pink. Compelling nose of ripe

strawberry which is extremely focused. The palate is

fruity, crisp and savoury with red fruit overtones which

add lots of aroma and delicacy to this racy rosé

Champagne.

Price: N/A



+33 06 83 05 43 90


CR D Brut blanc de blancs 1er cru 2010: Clear,

light gold. Mature nose of dried fruits coupled with a

sweet spice tone. The palate offers up more of the same

aromatics, freighted with nuance and softness. Uncork

for scallops or fish in a sauce.

Price: € 38



+33 3 26 59 40 57


D Brut blanc de blancs Réserve : Light yellow with

green tints. Delicate nose combining fresh grape, a

floral touch and fresh grass. The palate beguiles with

its fullness, texture and fine bubbles along with its

persistent aromatics. A generous, fairly rich Blanc de

Blancs showing delicious purity.

Price: € 19.50



+33 3 26 59 40 57


D Brut blanc de noirs 1er cru : Light gold. Delicate,

compelling nose with fruit overtones of raspberry and

dried fruits. Fleshy, crunchy, fruit-forward attack flowing

into a fresh, persistent and very focused mid-palate. A

harmonious, lifted Champagne for any occasion.

Price: € 19.50



+33 3 26 59 40 57

CHAMPAGNE J.A DAUTEL 90/100

D Brut blanc de blancs La Pitance : Vibrant yellowgold.

Very endearing nose of ripe apples and pears.

The palate is soft, silky and ethereal and shows

persistent freshness. A very seductive Blanc de Blancs

with a finish that is delicately suffused with toast.

Price: € 25

http://champagne-lapitancerie.com

La Pitancerie Champagne J.A Dautel

+33 3 25 29 39 07


D Brut La Générale 2014: Very pretty, brilliant

yellow-gold. Expressive, compelling nose showing

ripe red fruit notes, a pastry touch and toast. Very soft,

fresh palate with focused aromas. This is an extremely

consumer-friendly Champagne that works best with

food.

Price: € 31



+33 3 25 29 39 07

CHAMPAGNE MADAME RAYMONDE 90/100

CR D Brut Espèce de Brut Tradition : Beautiful

yellow-gold. Super ripe, expressive nose showing toast

tones along with almond paste and marzipan accents.

The palate is taut, very harmonious and delivers the

same chiselled aromas. A pleasant Brut Champagne

that is very mature.

Price: € 28

https://www.madame-raymonde.fr

Champagne Madame Raymonde

+33 6 40 53 93 68

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT 90/100

CONV D Brut grand cru Les 2 Cépages : Pale

gold. Expressive and very pure nose with red berry fruit

overtones. The attack on the palate is clean and tense

and the mid-palate is freighted with more of the same,

delightful aromas. This is a crisp, satisfying Champagne

delivering great length.

Price: € 29

http://www.champagne-sadi-malot.com

Champagne Sadi Malot

+33 3 26 97 90 48

CHAMPAGNE THIBAUD VESSELLE 90/100

D Brut blanc de noirs : Pale yellow. Pleasant

nose of stone fruits. The palate is vinous, dense and

underpinned by beautiful, very creamy effervescence.

The finish is long, saline and very pure. Great varietal

expression.

Price: € 21



+33 3 26 57 00 88

118

SPRING 2021– GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE


ITALY - Piedmont


CONV D Brut grand cru Les Marquises : Beautiful

light gold. Fairly intense nose of stewed fruits with apple

and pear overtones. The palate is fresh and fruit-driven

with more of the same, fairly mature aromatics and

great zippy length on the finish.

Price: N/A



+33 06 83 05 43 90

CHAMPAGNE VIRGINIE T. 90/100

D Brut Nature 2009: Glistening yellow-gold. Intense,

expressive nose of dried fruits and dried straw. The

palate is really intense, mouth-filling and fresh. This is a

mature Champagne displaying its full potential.

Price: € 48

https://www.champagnevirginiet.com/fr/fr/

Champagne Virginie T.

+33 6 86 30 75 81

OUR SELECTION OF

ITALIAN WINES

The Italian version of our spring selection

includes fresh, intense DOCG Asti and

Moscato d’Asti wines offering a taste of

the holidays!

PIEDMONT

ASTI D.O.C.G

CHAMPAGNE SADI MALOT

90/100

■ Brut blanc de blancs - Vintage 2012

D CONV Beautiful brilliant light gold. Mature nose

of dried fruits and dried vegetal aromas. The palate

is taut and offers up more of the same, very charming

mature flavours. This is a gourmet Champagne that

works best with food. Price: € 40

PRESENTATION: Franck and Christine, Cindy and

Florian embody the fourth and fifth generations of the

family who nurture their 10 hectares of vines, divided

between 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot noir in

Villers-Marmery (Premier Cru) and Verzy (Grand Cru).

Since 2004, the family has employed sustainable

vineyard management techniques in order to protect the

environment – tillage is used, weed killers and

insecticides are outlawed, organic fertilisers are chosen

and biodiversity is protected. Tillage practices now

involve all the soils with the ultimate objective of farming

entirely organically. In fact, the switch-over to organic

began in Verzy in 2017 and has since last year been

rolled out across the family’s vineyards. The estate has

been certified HVE since 2014.

Tel.: +33 3 26 97 90 48

E-mail: sadi-malot@wanadoo.fr

Website: https://www.champagne-sadi-malot.com

CHAMPAGNE ANTOINE VESSELLE 89/100

D Brut blanc de blancs : Pale yellow. Open nose of

dried fruits and bread crust. The palate delivers more

of the same mature aromatics but is driven by great

tension. An elaborate Champagne pairing with fish or

shellfish.

Price: € 21



+33 3 26 57 00 88


D Extra brut Pulmenta Regulari : Brilliant light gold.

Pleasant nose of crisp ripe fruits. More of the same very

expressive, mature style on the palate with jammy fruit

tones. A generous, satisfying Champagne that works

best with food.

Price: € 19.90



+33 3 25 29 39 07


D Brut rosé : Light orangy-pink. The nose is focused

and expressive with red berry fruit aromas tinged with

a citrus tone. The fruit characters flow through to the

palate which is fresh and harmonious. A satisfying,

accessible rosé Champagne.

Price: € 34



+33 6 86 30 75 81


D Brut A: Beautiful glistening yellow-gold. Very pure,

focused, expressive nose accented by ripe white fruits.

The palate also delivers beautiful ripeness with a fairly

fruity style coupled with a creamy tone and remarkable

tension. Great personality.

Price: € 32



+33 6 86 30 75 81

Prices mentioned in this book are guideline

and can vary depending on point of sale.

The shops, wineries or publisher can in no way be

held responsible for this.

CANTI 86/100

D Vintage 2019 : Pale yellow with brilliant highlights

and very fine bubbles. Crisp nose of fresh grape with

menthol touches. Pleasant attack driven by fresh fruit.

Very refreshing, satisfying palate with a very smooth

finish. Would sit well alongside sweet desserts.

Price: € 6.90

http://www.fratellimartini.it

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi

+39 0141 83 72 11

MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G.

BOSIO 90/100

ORG D 2018 : Pale, green-tinged yellow. Clean,

focused nose remindiscent of fresh grapes and roses.

Fleshy and smooth on the palate, with discreet bubbles.

Notable for its purity, freshness and persistence.

Price: € 9.99

http://www.bosiovini.it

Bosio S.r.l.

+39 014 184 71 49

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE 90/100

ORG D Valdiserre 2018 : Light yellow with very fine

bubbles. Focused, delightful nose showing suggestions

of rose and lychee with subtle fruit in syrup notes.

Compelling, soft palate with crunchy fruit aromas.

Harmonious and instantly accessible in a pure style. A

beautiful Moscato.

Price: € 11

http://www.isolabelladellacroce.it

Borgo Isolabella

+39 014 487 166

ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE 90/100

D 2019 : Pale gold with shimmering highlights.

Nose of fresh, juicy fruits (peach, pear, apple). Sleek,

supple, moreish palate with seductively complicit fruit,

freshness and easy-drinking sweetness that gives the

tastebuds a wake-up call. Unapologetic pleasure.

Price: € 8.50

http://www.isolabelladellacroce.it

Borgo Isolabella

+39 014 487 166


ITALY - Piedmont

PIANCANELLI 90/100

CR D 2018 : Very pale yellow. Delicate, highly

distinctive nose of grapes and white flowers. Very

fragrant, delectable palate, rich yet not excessively so.

The fruity aromatics are compelling and lasting. A real

treat.

Price: € 5.50

http://www.piancanelli.it

Piancanelli

+39 014 487 287

PIANCANELLI 89/100

CR D 2019 : Light silver with green tints. Appealing

nose combining fresh grape, tangerine peel and

floral notes. The same pure, extremely lifted aromas

are picked up on the palate with fruit syrup. Dances

back and forth between sweetness and freshness. A

satisfying wine with real allure.

Price: € 5


Piancanelli

+39 014 487 287

PIANCANELLI 89/100

D 2020 : Pale gold with silvery highlights. Crisp

nose of fresh peach, pear and plum with a heady

floral touch. Freshness is nicely forward on the palate,

combined with crisp fruity softness. Moreish, sappy

palate for this delicate Moscato.

Price: € 5


Piancanelli

+39 014 487 287

VINCHIO - VAGLIO SERRA 88/100

D Valamasca 2018 : Brilliant pale yellow. Pleasant

nose driven by fresh grape, preserved lemon and a

lick of cinchona. Rich palate suffused with harmonious,

ethereal, perfumed effervescence with just the right

amount of sweetness. A delicious, distinctive Moscato

for sharing with friends.

Price: € 8

http://www.vinchio.com

Vinchio - Vaglio Serra

+39 0141 95 09 03

CASCINA CASTLÈT 87/100

D 2018 : Pale golden yellow, tiny bubbles.

Pronounced nose of fresh grapes with a whiff of

brioche. Crisp, sweetish palate with aromatics similar

to the nose. Nice combination of sweetness and acidity

on the finish. Delicious with fresh fruit salad.

Price: € 8

http://www.cascinacastlet.com

Cascina Castlèt

+39 0141 96 66 51

CANTI 86/100

D Estate 2019 : Very light yellow with pale green

tints and very fine bubbles. Nose of fresh grape with

menthol notes. Crunchy fruit drives the attack, very

smooth palate with fine tangy notes on the finish. Great

balance. Serve with fruit-based desserts.

Price: € 7.90

http://www.fratellimartini.it

Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi

+39 0141 83 72 11

A typical landscape in the Asti region with its lush green, vine-clad hills.

ENOITALIA SPA 86/100

D Gemma di Luna : Pale gold. Crisp nose delivering

fresh pear and lychee. Very refreshing, supple and softly

fruity palate with elegant sweetness. Freshness and fruit

drive the finish over good length. A Moscato with good

grip that works as an aperitif or pudding wine.

Price: € 14

http://www.enoitalia.it

Enoitalia - Gruppo Pizzolo

+39 045 887 62 00

CANTINA LA MARANZANA 85/100

D 2018 : Light golden yellow with silvery tints.

Beautiful nose of fresh grape and menthol notes.

Crunchy, fruit-forward attack on the palate. Very fine

bubbles introducing a great sensation of freshness and

counterbalancing the residual sugar. Serve with fruit

desserts.

Price: € 4.40

http://www.cantinamaranzana.it

Cantina La Maranzana

+39 014 177 927

LA MARANZANA 85/100

D Muscatè bianc 2019 : Brilliant light gold. Crisp

nose of fresh grapes and white peaches in syrup.

Great freshness counterbalances the sweetness on the

palate. Fruit expression is soft, subtle and lingering. This

is a wine for simple enjoyment, drinking well on any

occasion.

Price: € 4.70

http://www.cantinamaranzana.it

Cantina La Maranzana

+39 014 177 927

PIEMONTE D.O.C.

MARENCO 86/100

CONV D Moscato 2019 : Light yellow with green

tints and very fine bubbles. Fresh grape with a faint

menthol touch on the nose. Fruit-forward palate with

fairly pronounced sweetness. Refreshing finish. Drink al

fresco on a hot summer’s afternoon with friends.

Price: € 9.50

http://www.marencovini.com

Marenco Azienda Agricola

+39 014 436 31 33

VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ

ABBAZIA 91/100

D : Light cherry-pink. Appealing nose combining

fresh grape, red berry fruits and a floral note. Wellbalanced,

ethereal, invigorating palate with amiable

softness framing the flavours. Lovely precision and

intensity in this wine for sharing.

Price: € 3.90

http://www.abbazia.com

Abbazia di San Gaudenzio

+39 1 41 84 08 08

LA SCOLCA 89/100

D 2009 : Pale orangy pink with gold reflections.

Profound nose combining raspberry coulis, cherry and

gingerbread. Airy palate suffused with generous, soft

effervescence. The aromas are very delicate with spice

and a noble herbal touch in this successful offering.

Price: €N/A

https://www.lascolca.net

La Scolca

+39 014 368 21 76

120


SOUTH AFRICA - Western Cape - Olifants River

OUR SELECTION OF

SOUTH AFRICAN

WINES

Head off the well-trodden path and

discover the Western Cape’s most secret

wine routes, and wines.

WESTERN CAPE -

CAPE SOUTH COAST

CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM

LOMOND BELLADONNA 94/100

D SMV 2018 : Ruby-garnet. Black fruit and spicy

notes on the nose. Dark and jammy on the palate with a

grippy and voluptuous finish. Rich and full. An excellent

wine that will age for many years.

Price: € 9.96

Lomond Wines

+27 28 388 0095

GHOST CORNER 92/100

D The Bowline 2018 : Still youthful colour for a 2018

wine. Green asparagus, green melon bouquet makes

this an attractive combination. Attractive mouthfeel and

well integrated acidity. Spicy finish, almost a slight

toasty-oak impression. Will age well.

Price: € 12.85

Cederberg Wines Cellar

+27 27 482 2827

CAPE SOUTH COAST

WHOLE BUNCH SYRAH 89/100

CONV D Syrah 2019 : Deep ruby red. Blue and

black berry fruit with notes of fynbos, tea leaves and

touch of buchu. Great exchange of fruit tannins and oak

tannins. Balanced and length. Will age well.

Price: € 9

Gabriëlskloof

+27 82 311 7955

ELGIN

ELGIN VINTNERS 95/100

D Pinot Noir 2019 : Ruby red with browning rim.

Spice and cola-tonic nose with hints of red berry. Palate

is medium-to-full, but delicate and integrated. This is

Pinot Noir. Savoury on the finish with a tight and grippy

finish. Elegant and refined. Drink now through 2030.

Price: €17.76

https://elginvintners.co.za

Elgin Vintners

+27 21 848 9587

MOUNT BULLET 95/100

D Merlot 2017 : Impressive pixels in colour. Red and

black mullberries, floral notes and touch of attractive

herbals. Sweet chocolate entry and coated tannins.

Length and weight is just perfect. Benchmark wine.

Price: € 27.84

http://www.shannonwines.com

Shannon Vineyards

+27 21 859 2491

LOTHIAN OF ELGIN VINEYARD SELECTION 86/100

D Pinot Noir 2019 : Light ruby with browning rim.

Savoury nose with a slight hint of smoke. Red berry

fruit on the palate with toasty notes. A crisp acidity that

adds a rhubarb note at the end. Acidity needs time to

integrate. A-typical, but pleasant. Drink through 2025.

Price: € 16.74

http://www.lothianvineyards.com

Lothian Vineyards

+27 82 565 7869

OVERBERG - KLEIN RIVER

RAKA 93/100

D Biography Shiraz 2018 : Deep ruby garnet.

Spicy nose with black-pepper and dark berry fruit.

Black forrest cake on the palate with a red berry finish

and elegant spice. Fine and grainy tannins on the

aftertaste. Drink through 2026.

Price: € 8.86

http://www.rakawine.co.za

Raka Wines

+27 28 3410 676

PLETTENBERG BAY

METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 94/100

D Blanc de Blanc 2015 : Golden straw. Nutty, rich

and vibrant nose with hints of lemon drops. Crisp and

refreshing on the palate with green apple and lime.

Fine mousse and lengthy on the finish. Refined and

finessed. Excellent.

Price: € 13.60

http://www.newsteadwines.com

Newstead Lund Family Vineyards

+27 76 300 9740

BITOU VINEYARDS 91/100

D Méthod Cap Classique Sauvignon Blanc 2017

: Attractive first impression. Green apple, pretty lees

notes from yeast. Unexpected well integrated acidity,

good mousse and palate weight with long finish.

Price: € 4.59

https://bitouvineyards.co.za

Bitou Vineyards

+27 82 927 6179

KAY & MONTY SAV 90/100

D Sauvignon Blanc 2019 : Light yellow. Tropical

nose with hints of white pepper. Fruit-forward palate

with canned peas and capsicum. Full and rich on the

finish. Drink through 2025.

Price: € 7.16

http://www.kayandmonty.com

Kay & Monty Vineyards

+27 79 965 9779

WALKER BAY

WALKER BAY 94/100

D Chardonnay 2017 : Golden yellow. Rich and

ripe nose with hints of marmelade and blue orange.

Ripe and rich on the palate with blue orange and citrus

notes abounding. Elegant, refined on the palate with

a rich and full finish. Delicious. Excellent wine. Drink

through 2028.

Price: € 7

Walker Bay

+27 28 341 0013

WALKER BAY - BOT RIVER

HOPE MARGUERITE 95/100

D Chenin Blanc 2019 : Light yellow. Fragrant nose

with ripe peach and pear. Stone fruit palate with a

savoury and sweet and sour finish. Delicate and

perfumed. Layered. Acidity well integrated. Refined

and complex. Wow.

Price: € 19.43

Beaumont Family Wines

+27 28 284 9194

WESTERN CAPE -

COASTAL REGION

BAMBOES BAY

BAMBOES BAY 93/100

D Pinot Noir 2018 : Very light ruby with brick-red

rim. Subdued nose with red cherry notes. Rhubarb and

bright red fruit on the palate with spicy notes on the

finish. Superb.

Price: € 15.67

Fryer’s Cove

+27 21 001 3150

WESTERN CAPE -

OLIFANTS RIVER

PIEKENIERSKLOOF

PIEKENIERSKLOOF 93/100

D Chardonnay 2020 : Light yellow straw. Dried

citrus and pear on the nose with hints of marmelade.

Rich, full and elegant on the palate with citrus and

tropical fruit notes. Refined acidity that adds length.

Delicious. Drink now through 2030.

Price: € 5

http://www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za

Piekenierskloof Wine Company

+27 22 921 2233


SPAIN - Murcia - Valencia

OUR SELECTION OF

SPANISH WINES

We take a look at a lesser-known aspect

of the Spanish wine industry through

the lens of the Monastrell grape variety

whose dominion covers the vineyards of

Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Alicante and Utiel-

Requena.

MURCIA

JUMILLA D.O.

BODEGAS ALCENO 91/100

ORG D Juma Bee 2018 : Concentrated red with

ruby tints. Crisp nose of red and black berries, fruit

stones and pervasive flowers. Honed power on the

palate with ripe, polished tannins, streamlined fruit and

a silky mouthfeel, all qualities that are bound to make

an impression.

Price: € 10

http://www.alceno.com

Bodegas Alceño

+34 968 780 142

BODEGAS ALCENO 90/100

D Genio Espanol 2019 : Deep cherry-red with

dark ruby reflections. Heady floral accents and juicy,

jammy red fruit perfumes on the nose. The palate is

intense with silky tannins and a great broad-ranging

array of aromas. Subtle smokiness on the finish. Shows

presence.

Price: € 7.50

http://www.alceno.com

Bodegas Alceño

+34 968 780 142

BODEGAS BLEDA 90/100

D Castillo de Jumilla Reserva 2016 : Superb

garnet-red with mature highlights. Enticing nose of

ripe dark fruits with pepper and graphite touches.

Intense, generous palate that is lively and harmonious.

Compelling through to the finish with fine tannins that

are already well-integrated.

Price: € 24

http://www.bodegasbleda.com

Bodegas Bleda, S.L.

+34 968 780 012

BODEGAS BLEDA 90/100

D Pino Doncel - 12 Meses 2018 : Deep cherryred

with dark ruby highlights. Delicate vanilla oak on

the nose backed by red fruits and peony. Satisfying

palate where oak influence is a bonus. Oak and fruit

combine within an assertive tannin structure. Modern

and charming.

Price: € 9


Bodegas Bleda, S.L.

+34 968 780 012

BODEGAS ARLOREN 89/100

D El Tio del Carro 2017 : Garnet-red with bricking.

Black fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant) on the nose with

a whiff of pepper and vanilla. Powerful, ample, fruitforward

attack with partially integrated tannins. Tense,

mineral finish. Serve with grilled meats.

Price: € 11

http://www.arloren.com

Bodegas Arloren

+34 637 943 056

BODEAGAS BLEDA 88/100

D Crianza 2016 : Beautiful garnet-red with slightly

mature highlights. The nose develops aromas of black

fruits with oak and liquorice touches. Ample and silky

at point of entry. A well-balanced wine displaying a

sensation of freshness with a tightly-wound tannin

framework

Price: € 7


Bodegas Bleda, S.L.

+34 968 780 012

YECLA D.O.

BODEGAS LA PURISIMA 89/100

ORG D Old Hands 2017 : Beautiful deep red.

Heady nose of ripe stone fruits with a mineral tone.

The palate displays savoury freshness on the attack

and intense fruity aromas. Lovely balance, forthright

character and a delicately spiced finish.

Price: € 5.10

http://www.bodegaslapurisima.com

Bodegas La Purisima

+34 968 751 257

VALENCIA

ALICANTE D.O.

MURVIEDRO 92/100

D Sericis - Cepas Viejas Monastrell 2016 : Dark

garnet-red with faint bricking. Nose of jammy dark fruits

with pepper and graphite touches. Racy, structured,

powerful palate with pronounced forest floor notes. A

very successful wine pairing with wild boar ragout.

Price: € 10

http://www.murviedro.es

Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

SERICIS 91/100

D Cepas Viejas Monastrell 2017 : Garnet-red with

bricking. Nose of ripe black fruits with toast notes. A

powerfully styled wine that also displays real finesse

thanks to its nicely harnessed tannins and elegant

minerality on the finish. Serve with spicy Asian foods.

Price: € 10.50


Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

CAVA D.O.

ARTS DE LUNA 91/100

ORG D Brut Organic : Light gold with silvery

highlights. Nose of white fruits, yellow-fleshed fruits and

an inviting mineral sensation. On the palate, delicate

aromas lean towards fresh, moreish fruit, gleaming

minerality and a mouth-watering soft finish in this great

Cava.

Price: € 6.50


Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

UTIEL-REQUENA D.O.

LA CASA DE LA SEDA 92/100

D 2019 : Ruby-red wth dark purple reflections.

Endearing nose of ripe red fruits with violet and toast

notes. Powerful and harmonious at point of entry.

The bold tannin structure is partially integrated. Great

minerality on the finish. Drink with grilled foods.

Price: € 18


Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

LA CASA DE LA SEDA 91/100

D 2018 : Deep cherry-red with ruby highlights.

Nose of ripe red and black berries with subtle spice

undertones. Satisfying palate that takes you on a

whirlwind journey through freshness and fruit. Civilised

tannins and an invigorating finish. Good, sound

pleasure. Drink with red meats.

Price: € 18


Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

SERICIS 91/100

D Cepas Viejas Bobal 2017 : Dark garnet-red

with faint bricking. Nose of red and black fruits with

toast and pepper touches. Powerful attack revealing

empyreumatic notes and powerful tannins only partly

integrated. Great minerality on the finish.

Price: € 10.50


Murviedro Bodegas

+34 962 329 003

122


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