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Msafiri April <strong>2017</strong> edition 132 kenya-airways.com<br />

Connecting Africa to the World<br />

8<br />

Ways to See<br />

Dubai<br />

Discover<br />

Cape Town<br />

The local lowdown<br />

Heritage<br />

in a Bottle<br />

Tusker Beer’s Success Story<br />

Free to Take Home April <strong>2017</strong>


Your tax business<br />

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© <strong>2017</strong> KPMG Advisory Services Limited, a Kenyan Limited Liability Company and a member<br />

firm of the KPMG network of independent member firms affiliated with KPMG International<br />

Cooperative (“KPMG International”), a Swiss entity. All rights reserved.


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INTRODUCTION / 11<br />

Enjoy Your Flight<br />

“Safety is<br />

Good<br />

Business”<br />

Meet PETER KIMERIA, head of Safety<br />

& Quality at Kenya Airways. He explains<br />

how ensuring safety is KQ’s top priority.<br />

“It is our license to fly.”<br />

Cover image: Alamy<br />

Msafiri April <strong>2017</strong> edition 132 kenya-airways.com<br />

Connecting Africa to the World<br />

8<br />

Ways to See<br />

Dubai<br />

Discover<br />

Cape Town<br />

The Local Lowdown<br />

Heritage<br />

in a Bottle<br />

Tusker Beer’s Success Story<br />

Free to Take Home April <strong>2017</strong><br />

What brought you to Kenya Airways?<br />

I graduated from Embry-Riddle<br />

Aeronautical University with a B.Sc.<br />

in Aeronautical Science and applied to<br />

work at Kenya Airways because it is the<br />

leading airline in the country. I knew<br />

that working here would help me grow<br />

my career. I joined in 1997 as First<br />

Officer, became Captain in 2005, and<br />

joined the Safety Team in 2009. I<br />

strongly believe in the values at the core<br />

of Kenya Airways: safety, customer,<br />

respect, integrity, passion and trust,<br />

or S-C-R-I-P-T, for short.<br />

What does the Safety Team do?<br />

We see to it that safety comes first and<br />

foremost. It is our license to fly. We are<br />

involved in operations across the board,<br />

from flight to maintenance to industrial<br />

safety. While each pursues a separate<br />

safety mandate, all teams are committed<br />

to the development, maintenances and<br />

continuous improvement of the Safety<br />

Management System.<br />

How are standards maintained?<br />

We use International Civil Aviation<br />

Organization guidelines. Our Quality<br />

Assurance Team schedule internal<br />

audits, spot checks and inspections to<br />

make sure that we meet the expected<br />

industry safety standards at all times.<br />

This non-stop dedication to safety and<br />

quality has been recognised internationally.<br />

We pride ourselves on being part of<br />

the coveted IATA Operational Safety<br />

Audit. The IOSA standards give an<br />

independent assurance of our safety<br />

record. In addition, the British Safety<br />

Council presented Kenya Airways with<br />

International Safety Awards in 2015<br />

and 2016 for the commitment to<br />

keeping employees and workplaces<br />

healthy and safe.<br />

What are you passionate about in your job?<br />

Communication. We aim to demonstrate<br />

maturity in our safety culture by<br />

constantly communicating our commitment<br />

to a “just system” that seeks to<br />

identify the root causes of possible<br />

safety events as opposed to assigning<br />

blame. The practices we have in place<br />

are sound and rigorous and I am confident<br />

that we can continue to ensure the<br />

highest levels of safety. That’s our job.<br />

And it’s a job I’m honoured to do.<br />

Kenya Airways World Travel Awards<br />

• Winner of Best Airline in Africa, 2016<br />

• Winner of Africa’s Leading Airline –<br />

Business Class 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016


CONTENTS / 13<br />

Travel & Nature<br />

16 Climbing High<br />

Impressive Mount Kenya<br />

19 Habari<br />

Kenya & the world<br />

26 Let’s Go<br />

to Cape Town<br />

46 Tanzania<br />

at a glance<br />

56 Dubai<br />

8 ways to see the city<br />

63 Guess and win<br />

Travel quiz<br />

64 Safe from harm<br />

Wildlife sanctuaries<br />

64<br />

56<br />

People<br />

24 People to watch<br />

Top fashion entrepreneurs<br />

36 Synergies in sound<br />

Coke Studio musicians<br />

Publisher Kenya Airways | Corporate Communications Manager Wanjiku Mugo Advertising Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose<br />

Kagori Concept, Content & Production G+J Custom Content | CEO Eric Blok Creative Director Loes van Dokkum Art Director Sabine Verschueren Managing Editor Helmke van Geel,<br />

Annette Lavrijsen Design Cynthia Schippers, Gaby Walther Sub Editors Julia Gorodecky, Annemarie Hoeve, Nina Siegal Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer, Markus Seewald Contributors<br />

Tanveer Badal, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Edith Carron, Eromo Egbejule, Nils Elzenga, Barbara Groen, Desiree Hoving, Danitsja Kallendorf, LaPeet, Dana van Leeuwen, Natascha<br />

Mijnhart, Astrid Nühn, Joyce Plokkaar, Jurriaan Teulings, Lucy Thackray, Eva de Vries, Ivy Wairimu, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Joanne Wienen Translation Concorde<br />

Production Manager Hans Koedijker IT Manager Olaf de Jager Lithography Ready4Print Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen


14 / CONTENTS<br />

Fly Guide<br />

71 Highlights<br />

Inflight entertainment guide<br />

91 Safari Njema<br />

93 News & Service<br />

95 Flying Blue News<br />

97 Skyteam News<br />

98 Route Maps<br />

105 Cargo<br />

106 Get Comfortable<br />

26<br />

Business<br />

36<br />

42 Heritage in a bottle<br />

The story of Tusker Beer<br />

48 Happy hubs<br />

Booming tech valleys<br />

53 Work-life balance<br />

How to manage it<br />

55 Fit while traveling<br />

Handy tips<br />

81 Msafiri en Français<br />

86 Msafiri 中 文 版<br />

Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, <strong>msafiri</strong>@kenya-airways.com<br />

Website: kenya-airways.com; Facebook: Kenya Airways; Twitter: @kenyaairways; Instagram: officialkenyaairways<br />

Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, <strong>msafiri</strong>@mediaedgeke.comG+J Media, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam,<br />

the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, www.genj.nl.<br />

No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />

responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation.<br />

Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at www.kenia-airways.com.


16 / NATURE / Views /<br />

Climbing<br />

High<br />

The rocky summit of<br />

MOUNT KENYA<br />

rises up to meet the<br />

sky at a height of 5,199<br />

metres. A wonder and<br />

a challenge, this mighty<br />

African peak.<br />

text Eva de Vries<br />

FORMED OVER three million years<br />

ago, Mount Kenya is an extinct volcano<br />

100km north of Nairobi. The local<br />

Kikuyu tribe farm the fertile volcanic soil<br />

on the lower slopes. They call the mountain<br />

‘Kirinyaga’, meaning ‘place of light<br />

and darkness’. The Kikuyu believe that<br />

this is the earthly throne of god, or ‘Ngai’.<br />

It is considered sacred, and many have<br />

built their houses to face the mountain in<br />

the hope of prosperity.<br />

Visitors travel from near and far to<br />

visit the mountain that gives Kenya its<br />

name. Africa’s second-highest peak – it is<br />

surpassed only by its Tanzanian big<br />

brother, Mount Kilimanjaro. Some come<br />

to experience the wildlife in this most<br />

dramatic of landscapes. With the contours<br />

of Mount Kenya on the horizon, impala,<br />

cheetahs and the rare black rhino can be<br />

spotted on the Laikipia Plateau. Others<br />

head straight for the summit, climbing<br />

their way into the clouds. Reaching Point<br />

Lenana (4,985m), the final destination for<br />

trekkers, is tough and takes at least three<br />

days. To summit the peak at sunrise, the<br />

final ascent begins at 2 a.m. The air is thin<br />

and every step requires effort. But aching<br />

muscles and lungs are instantly forgotten<br />

with the magical views of the rolling<br />

African plains below. For this is nothing<br />

short of the adventure of a lifetime.<br />

The Mount Kenya National Park is located<br />

about 140km from Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta<br />

Airport.


NATURE / 17<br />

Getty Images


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Despite their<br />

friendly and slow<br />

appearance, the<br />

hippo is one of the<br />

most dangerous<br />

animals in Africa<br />

and can easily<br />

outrun a human.<br />

Habari<br />

HABARI / 19<br />

The Seychelles are home to<br />

thousands of sea turtles that lay<br />

their eggs on the beaches.<br />

Soulful sound<br />

Grace Barbé<br />

Coming from the kaleidoscopic<br />

Seychelles, the energetic and<br />

beautiful Grace Barbé looks to<br />

traditional slave rhythms and<br />

dances, and fuses these with<br />

rock, Afrobeat, reggae and pop.<br />

She sings in English, Creole<br />

and French and her soulful<br />

music celebrates the diverse<br />

cultural influences of her Indian<br />

Ocean heritage.<br />

Photo 1974 © Howard L. Bingham


20 / HABARI<br />

More than 1,500 languages are<br />

spoken on the African continent<br />

– the greatest linguistic diversity<br />

in the world. English is the most<br />

common language.<br />

Nairobi<br />

Lamu Old Town is the oldest and<br />

best-preserved Swahili settlement<br />

in East Africa.<br />

Have a drink<br />

Zing Bar<br />

Stay happy<br />

Tune Hotel<br />

If James Bond was real, he’d<br />

come to Zing. He’d wear a<br />

crisp white cotton dress shirt,<br />

no tie, and sleeves neatly folded<br />

to his elbow. He’d sit on one of<br />

the swanky yellow seats at the<br />

far end of the bar, near the<br />

large silver mask, his back to<br />

the wall like a true secret agent.<br />

Then he’d sip his martini while<br />

taking in the room, keeping his<br />

hands off the complimentary<br />

From the outside, Tune Hotel<br />

resembles an alien spaceship,<br />

the kind from your favourite<br />

retro sci-fi film. At least at<br />

night. Just launched on<br />

Westland’s Rhapta Road,<br />

this is the international hotel<br />

chain’s first branch in Africa.<br />

The cheery block of red and<br />

grey rises eleven storeys into<br />

the sky. It’s a three-star budget<br />

hotel that doesn’t look budget.<br />

The rooftop bar offers a<br />

beautiful view of Nairobi.<br />

~ tunehotels.com<br />

nuts. He’d choose Zing because<br />

it has that cool retro allure (and<br />

attracts women who go for<br />

suave Bond types). He’d stare<br />

listlessly at the affluent afterwork<br />

herd and finally succumb<br />

and pick a glazed nut. Just one.<br />

~ d2nairobi.com<br />

Quote<br />

“I dwell on<br />

issues that<br />

a lot of artists<br />

will choose<br />

not to address”<br />

− Michael Soi −<br />

Kenyan artist<br />

Once in a while someone (the<br />

Good Earth Group, in this<br />

case) does something phenomenal<br />

in Nairobi. Like<br />

open up a diner that serves<br />

local home-style dishes with a<br />

modern eclectic twist. Think a<br />

bohemian roadside diner with<br />

mama’s stews, Chapati wraps,<br />

craft burgers, hand-cut chips<br />

and homemade BBQ sauces.<br />

Foodie favourite<br />

Nyama Mama<br />

The ambience is Afro-cool,<br />

with exclusively African music<br />

streamed live from bespoke<br />

sound consultancy Music<br />

Concierge. For a spirited<br />

finish, round off with a<br />

Charcoal Manhattan cocktail<br />

made with Bulleit Bourbon.<br />

~ thegoodearthgroup.com/<br />

nyama-mama<br />

Text: Jackson Biko


Africa contains 30 percent of<br />

the world’s minerals: just under<br />

half of the world's diamonds and<br />

one fifth of the world’s gold.<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

HABARI / 21<br />

At the Manta Resort on Zanzibar,<br />

you can sleep in an underwater room<br />

surrounded by fish.<br />

Cultural jubilee<br />

Festac at Forty<br />

Forty years ago, a month-long cultural celebration,<br />

the Second World Black and African Festival of Arts<br />

and Culture in Lagos became the largest pan-African<br />

gathering of its kind, with about 17,000 participants<br />

from at least 57 countries across the continent and<br />

the wider diaspora. Stevie Wonder performed, as did<br />

Gilberto Gil from Brazil, Miriam Makeba of South<br />

Africa and Les Ballets Africains of Guinea. Now the<br />

festival is the stuff of legend, but you can visit the<br />

past via a Facebook archive of the event.<br />

~ facebook.com/festac77archive<br />

Event<br />

Three-day celebration<br />

This year, the Marsabit Lake Turkana Cultural<br />

festival will take place from 4 to 6 May on the<br />

shores of the world’s largest desert lake. The<br />

three-day celebration presents the cultural riches<br />

of fourteen tribes, and the colourful festivities<br />

also serve a deeper purpose: to promote peace and<br />

reconciliation among communities in the region.<br />

~ laketurkanaculturalfestival.com<br />

Q&A<br />

Colour Me Beautiful<br />

Twenty-year-old Kenyan artist Cynthia Nyongesa creates<br />

amazing self-portraits using colourful walls as a background.<br />

She chats with Msafiri about her goals and passion for art.<br />

How did you come up with this idea?<br />

Colours have always been my first love, so I wanted to incorporate<br />

them into my artwork. And I wanted the freedom to create scenes<br />

without a model or professional photography; I think the combination<br />

of self-portraits and colourful walls creates a perfect setting.<br />

What do you want to achieve with your art?<br />

I want people to see the world through my eyes and be inspired by my<br />

imagination. My message is also not to take life too seriously, because<br />

having fun doesn’t stop when you get old.<br />

Where do you see yourself in ten years?<br />

Hopefully I can provide people with opportunities that I never had.<br />

I hope to open up creative centres not only in Nairobi, but also in the<br />

remote corners of Kenya. I want to be part of the amazing wave of<br />

creativity that is emerging in Kenya.<br />

~ theafricanunicorn.com<br />

Text: Eva de Vries


With about 21 million people,<br />

Lagos, Nigeria, is now the<br />

biggest city in Africa after<br />

overtaking Cairo, Egypt.<br />

Gadgets<br />

HABARI / 23<br />

Lake Malawi has the largest number of fish<br />

species in the world – more than 500.<br />

Digital doodahs<br />

Innovate<br />

your Health<br />

1<br />

Know Pressure<br />

Designed specifically for busy people on the<br />

go, this wrist version blood pressure monitor<br />

makes it easy to track your morning and<br />

evening blood pressure and pulse, even when<br />

you’re on a long flight. It also features a touch<br />

screen XXL display, a WHO indicator and<br />

arrhythmia detection.<br />

~ beurer.com US$ 100<br />

2<br />

Untangled Tunes<br />

Don't like how those wires keep getting in the<br />

way? The Red Fox Edge Wireless Headphones,<br />

which slip over or under your ears and connect<br />

around the back of your head are an interesting<br />

new option. Ideal for shorter periods of<br />

listening, up to about two hours, they’re a good<br />

option for the gym, because they’re also easy<br />

to clean if you do get them sweaty.<br />

~ redfoxwireless.com US$ 120<br />

3<br />

Mindful Eating<br />

Have you heard about mindful eating? Some say<br />

that eating too fast, or eating while distracted,<br />

leads to troubles with portion control, difficulty<br />

controlling your weight, and poor digestion and<br />

even gastric reflux. The HAPIfork contains smart<br />

technology that helps you monitor and track<br />

your eating habits. It alerts you with indicator<br />

lights and gentle vibrations, which help you<br />

become more mindful.<br />

~ hapi.com US$ 99<br />

Right on track<br />

Gotta Look Smart<br />

For women who want to track<br />

their steps, calories and elevation,<br />

smart wristbands are all the rage.<br />

But how does one get past the<br />

plastic look of them?<br />

Fitness trackers can help raise your<br />

awareness of your physical activity<br />

throughout the day and encourage you<br />

to make healthy choices. But a plastic<br />

band around your wrist isn’t always the<br />

most fashion-forward accessory. Omron<br />

Healthcare has designed a different<br />

brand of smart wristband: Mira Fitness,<br />

is a range of sleek metal bracelets, in a<br />

variety of colours and sizes (including<br />

petite), so you can track your steps,<br />

calories, distance and elevation, and get<br />

personalised energy boosts throughout<br />

the day, while still feeling fabulous.<br />

1 2<br />

Inspired to buy?<br />

See our Karibu<br />

selection to find<br />

out which items are<br />

available during<br />

your flight.<br />

Text Nina Siegal<br />

~ omronhealthcare.com US$ 169<br />

3


24 / HABARI<br />

With 200 million people<br />

between the ages of 15 and<br />

24, Africa has the youngest<br />

population in the world. Nigeria<br />

is the “youngest country”.<br />

People<br />

Jackson Biko is a well know<br />

writer and blogger in Kenya<br />

~ www.bikozulu.co.ke<br />

Style<br />

Fashion is More Than<br />

Their Passion<br />

Matthew Rugamba<br />

House of Tayo, Rwanda<br />

Matthew Rugamba is the<br />

man behind House of Tayo, a<br />

menswear label most famous<br />

for its striking bow-ties<br />

designed using African<br />

prints. When the 27-year-old<br />

studied in the US, he said<br />

people felt sorry for him<br />

when he said he came from<br />

Rwanda. “I didn’t like that,”<br />

he says.“I wanted to tell the<br />

story of African dignity, that<br />

being Rwandan, and African,<br />

is not something to pity. I tell<br />

this story through design. My<br />

bow ties radiate elegance<br />

and dignity.”<br />

~ houseoftayo.com<br />

Muriuki Kagiri<br />

The Dapper Brother, Kenya<br />

In addition to personal<br />

updates and restaurant tips,<br />

Muriuki Kagiri’s website The<br />

Dapper Brother focuses on<br />

fashion. The Kenyan blogger<br />

and stylist is now one of the<br />

most popular online forces in<br />

male fashion design. He says<br />

he always had a natural eye<br />

for style. “My friends always<br />

came to me for advice,” he<br />

says, “and I used to even get<br />

compliments from strangers.”<br />

~ thedapperbrother.com<br />

Tendai Kamusikiri<br />

Signature Toscie, Zimbabwe<br />

Blogging is not an easy path to choose<br />

in Zimbabwe, but Tendai Kamusikiri<br />

decided to follow her heart. With her<br />

website Signature Toscie (based on<br />

her nickname), she aims to reach the<br />

modern fashion-loving woman:<br />

“Through my blog, I inform people<br />

what’s hot, what’s not and what’s<br />

happening. It helps me to escape from<br />

reality and express my creative ability.”<br />

~ signaturetoscie.co.zw<br />

Jackson Biko<br />

Happy Solitude<br />

I went for a picnic at Nairobi National Park because most<br />

of us – Nairobians – are too important and busy to visit our<br />

national park. Any less, no prophet is ever accepted in his home<br />

town. Take Nairobi National Park, the only one of its kind<br />

within a city but do we appreciate it enough? Nope. During<br />

Easter we just want to sit on high stools in bars and drink<br />

with the same guys with the same haircuts.<br />

Okay, I admit it wasn’t a picnic, as such. It’s not a picnic<br />

if you are alone with just a half-finished bottle of scotch, is it?<br />

Whatever it was, the sky was cloudless, a warm Friday<br />

afternoon. I sat in the rondavel Observation point, high on<br />

a hill overlooking the panorama of the park. I was a bit<br />

miserable, which is okay because a man has to be miserable<br />

sometimes, unless he’s a professional clown. There are over<br />

100 mammal species in the park, but I wasn’t in the mood<br />

to see a lion, or worse a hyena. I went for the solitude.<br />

I drunk from a disposable cup and listened to The Isley<br />

Brothers at very low volume from my phone. I had forgotten to<br />

bring some ice. But hey, I was having a swell time. Things were<br />

going well until a friend called. “Why are you at Nairobi<br />

National Park alone? That’s unlike you!” she said. I replied<br />

defiantly: “There is the me you don’t know. A me that loves<br />

elephant grass and Colobos monkeys.” She snorted. “You are not<br />

trying to commit suicide, Biko, are you?” I laughed. “Yeah, by<br />

doing what. Jumping on the horns of a female gazelle and impaling<br />

myself?”<br />

Then she asked an odd question. “What do you call a female<br />

gazelle?” I said it’s called a gazelle. She insisted there must be a<br />

name for it. I didn’t care if it’s called Lucy or Monica because<br />

she was really eating into my alone time. “I'll call you straight<br />

back,” she said and hung up. Two minutes later she called back,<br />

“It’s called a cow. A female gazelle is called a cow.” I felt<br />

enriched by this new piece of information. I sipped my drink,<br />

and stared at the distant hills. “What do you call a male gazelle<br />

then?” I asked halfheartedly. “A bull,” she said proudly. “A<br />

female elephant is also called a cow, a male elephant is called<br />

a bull”. “Look, we don’t care for these things!” I said with a<br />

little more concern than I liked. “We? Who are we?” She asked.<br />

I sighed and said, “Black people!” Then I hung up.<br />

Illustration: Hana Wieslander


Many scholars believe Africa to<br />

be the “Cradle of Mankind”.<br />

Hominid fossils have been found<br />

across the continent, especially<br />

around the Turkana Basin.<br />

Culture & Sports<br />

HABARI / 25<br />

In South Africa, you can run<br />

a marathon while spotting<br />

the Big Five: Africa’s greatest<br />

wild animals.<br />

On the move<br />

Wellness in Nairobi<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Spinning, yoga or CrossFit... how to choose the best<br />

workout in Nairobi? The Wellbeing Pass offers a<br />

solution without a decision, giving its holders free or<br />

discounted access to top fitness spots, including the<br />

Africa Yoga Project, Premier Rehab Center, Zen<br />

Cycle, Acacia Studio, Crossfit Kwetu and Taut Body.<br />

~ africayogaproject.org/pages/<strong>2017</strong>-wellbeing-pass<br />

Talent<br />

Adrien Niyonshuti<br />

Cyclist Adrien Niyonshuti is one of the optimistic forces of the new<br />

Rwanda. Six of his brothers were killed in the 1994 genocide, but he<br />

survived, and took up cycling as a teenager. While conquering the green<br />

hills, he was able to put his troubles out of his mind, and just enjoyed<br />

the scenery and the physical exercise. Cycling gave him hope. Adrien later<br />

joined the national team and won the Tour of Rwanda twice. He successfully<br />

made it to the South African UCI World Team and competed in<br />

tournaments in and out of Africa. In 2012 and 2016 he represented his<br />

country in the Summer Olympics. Now he has started his own cycling<br />

academy in Rwanda with the motto, “Cycling towards a better future.”<br />

He adds, “I really enjoy teaching the new generation what I have learned<br />

so far.” Folllow Adrien on Twitter: @AD_Niyonshuti87.<br />

Text: Eva de Vries<br />

Gallery<br />

Alluring Art<br />

Housed in a conspicuous red double-storey building,<br />

the Afriart Gallery in Kampala is hard to miss.<br />

This leading contemporary art gallery exhibits an<br />

exquisite selection of Ugandan and African art.<br />

Afriart currently features the work of popular<br />

Kenyan artist Michael Soi, whose paintings provide<br />

satirical commentary on socio-political issues.<br />

~ afriartgallery.org<br />

Quote<br />

“How do you<br />

democratise a<br />

building that wasn’t<br />

designed with<br />

democracy in mind?”<br />

– Mokena Makeka –<br />

South African architect


26 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />

A TASTE OF<br />

THE CAPE<br />

Cape Town is thriving with CREATIVE<br />

ENTREPRENEURSHIP. Two neighbourhoods are taking<br />

the lead in local gastronomy and craftsmanship.<br />

text Jurriaan Teulings<br />

Dana van Leeuwen


Mirjam Bleeker<br />

TRAVEL / 27


28 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />

Previous pages<br />

Left: Beta Beach,<br />

Bakoven<br />

Right: Colourful<br />

Bo-kaap houses<br />

ON A RECENT AFTERNOON at The Gin Bar, a<br />

favourite watering hole in Cape Town, a young entrepreneur<br />

named JP du Toit shares his plan to produce his own brand<br />

of artisanal tonic water. The local micro-distilleries have<br />

been producing such wonderful artisanal gins, he says, that<br />

they shouldn’t mix them with mass-produced tonics.<br />

This is the kind of clever suggestion that you hear a lot<br />

these days in Cape Town. The Mother City has been<br />

fostering her entrepreneurial spirit, especially in areas that<br />

were once rundown, taking advantage of big spaces and low<br />

rents. On the east side of the city centre, the industrial spaces<br />

of Woodstock have been converted into homes for collectives<br />

of designers, restaurateurs, artists and coffee roasteries.<br />

The same thing is happening amid the Victorian houses<br />

of the central business district – locally known as the CBD –<br />

where, out of the settling dust from construction and<br />

renovation projects, a new, thriving heart of restaurant and<br />

nightlife has emerged.<br />

The Gin Bar is “hidden” in a courtyard behind the<br />

storefront of Honest Chocolate, a small artisanal chocolate<br />

company. Inside, the men are sporting neat beards as effortlessly<br />

as the women wear grandma cardigans. The menu<br />

sticks to four expertly-crafted cocktails, named Heart, Head,<br />

Soul and Ambition – the four elements of Cape Town’s<br />

current success.<br />

There are two dedicated gin bars within Cape Town’s<br />

DBD. The other, named Mother’s Ruin, stocks 150 kinds of<br />

gin, 15 of which are South African. In most cases, this<br />

means they are infused with aromatic herbs unique to the<br />

southwestern tip of Africa growing as nearby as Table<br />

Mountain. These infusions are working so well they might<br />

just be the reason why the juniper spirit has taken such a<br />

strong foothold in Cape Town.<br />

RESTAURANT STRIP<br />

The fastest, and most recent, developments in the CBD<br />

have been around Bree Street, a seventeen-block stretch<br />

which, in the past few years, has emerged as a new hotspot in<br />

the city’s bar and restaurant scene. Up and down the street<br />

are new hipster hangouts. Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room (at<br />

no. 133) boasts fresh oysters from South Africa’s West Coast<br />

along with a menu of American-styled comfort food, while<br />

across the street, Charango Grill and ><br />

“Hidden behind an artisanal chocolate company<br />

is The Gin Bar’s courtyard terrace”<br />

Contemporary African<br />

art has a new home<br />

ZEITZ MOCAA<br />

The year <strong>2017</strong> is set to become a<br />

very exciting one for Cape Town, as<br />

the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary<br />

Art Africa is scheduled to open in<br />

September. Named after German<br />

art collector and businessman<br />

Jochen Zeitz (who will be<br />

providing its founding collection),<br />

it is set to become the world’s<br />

largest museum dedicated to<br />

contemporary African art: stretching<br />

over 9,500 square meters, spread<br />

over nine floors of a former grain<br />

silo complex at the V&A Waterfront.<br />

The grain elevator on top of the<br />

museum will be converted into a<br />

luxury hotel, simply named The Silo.<br />

zeitzmocaa.museum<br />

Above (top): The Gin Bar;<br />

Cape To Cuba restaurant;<br />

Kalk Bay parking<br />

Opposite page (clockwise<br />

from top left): Bean There<br />

coffee bar in central<br />

Cape Town;<br />

Outside The Old Biscuit<br />

Mill in Woodstock;<br />

Urban wall art;<br />

Street view De Waterkant<br />

Left page: The Gin Bar, Dana van Leeuwen<br />

Right page: Barbara Groen, Mirjam Bleeker (bottom left)


TRAVEL / 29


30 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />

“Quiet and secluded,<br />

Beta Beach is one<br />

of the city’s best-kept<br />

secrets”<br />

Dana van Leeuwen


Barbara Groen<br />

TRAVEL / 31


32 / TRAVEL / Cape Town


TRAVEL / 33<br />

Previous pages<br />

Left: Access to Beta Beach,<br />

Bakoven<br />

Right: All-day breakfast at<br />

Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room<br />

Right: The Test<br />

Kitchen appetiser<br />

Far right: A spot of<br />

shade outside<br />

The Old Biscuit Mill<br />

Left page (clockwise from<br />

top left): Fresh coffee; bright<br />

Bo-Kaap homes; Saturday<br />

food market at The Old<br />

Biscuit Mill; Bicycle Café<br />

Left page (clockwise from top left): Dana van Leeuwen, Mirjam Bleeker, Mirjam Bleeker, Dana van Leeuwen<br />

Right page: The Test Kitchen (left), Dana van Leeuwen (right)<br />

Bar (at no. 114) pulls in the crowds with Peruvian ceviche and<br />

fresh fish tacos.<br />

On the corner of Heritage Square, Love Thy Neighbour<br />

(at 110 Bree St.) pairs its own craft beers with Mediterranean<br />

meze, grill and souvlaki dishes. A few doors down, the popular<br />

Tapas for 2 set menu at Chefs Warehouse and Canteen (at no.<br />

92) changes daily, with highlights such as tender venison with<br />

rainbow carrots, and Asian duck broth with a kick of chilli.<br />

At the far southwestern end, two adjacent restaurants,<br />

Culture Club Cheese (at no. 215) and Bacon on Bree (at no.<br />

217), dedicate themselves to the finest artery-clogging<br />

indulgences. Caprese toasties, croque monsieurs and triple<br />

cheese omelettes on one side; BLTs, bacon croissants and<br />

bacon-laden Caesar salads on the other.<br />

COOL COLLECTIVE<br />

Just a ten-minute taxi ride from Bree Street, the industrial<br />

neighbourhood of Woodstock used to be rather rundown and<br />

unsafe. But in the two decades since the birth of the<br />

Rainbow Nation under Nelson Mandela, many trendy<br />

boutiques, restaurants, design shops and lofts have appeared,<br />

making it the most happening place to visit outside the CBD.<br />

The first big attraction of the neighbourhood was a cool<br />

collective of creative businesses, coffee bars and art galleries<br />

located in a former cookie factory – now simply known as The<br />

Old Biscuit Mill. Today, it has developed into a major draw<br />

for both locals and visitors. Espresso Lab microroasters brews<br />

single origin-beans from the highlands of Kenya and<br />

Ethiopia, while ceramics studio Imiso, whose designs draw<br />

inspiration from Picasso as well as African scarring traditions,<br />

is an excellent stop for souvenir hunters.<br />

FOODIE DELIGHTS<br />

Across a busy courtyard, chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ The<br />

Test Kitchen has received a string of awards and accolades,<br />

most notably the title of Restaurant of the Year by EatOut,<br />

Africa’s leading restaurant guide, every year since 2012. True<br />

to the restaurant’s name, Dale-Roberts’ creativity roams free<br />

in any direction, combining uniquely South African culinary<br />

traditions with those of Asia – think liquorice-cured Wagyu<br />

biltong (the latter being a spiced dried meat similar to beef<br />

jerky) and twelve-hour smoked trout tartare.<br />

While The Test Kitchen needs to be booked a few weeks<br />

ahead, local foodies find solace in the weekly Neighborgoods<br />

artisanal food market held next to the Mill. Every Saturday, it<br />

offers a plethora of foreign delicacies from Syrian shawarma ><br />

“New trendy boutiques, design shops, restaurants<br />

and lofts make this a happening place to visit”<br />

Where to stay<br />

Cape Heritage Hotel<br />

If you’d like to stay right in the centre of the hustle and bustle<br />

of Bree Street in Cape Town’s fashionable Heritage Square,<br />

this restored 18th-century boutique hotel offers bedrooms<br />

and suites, each with their own unique character and design,<br />

lovely dining and lounge areas, a rooftop hot tub and a<br />

central courtyard shaded by the oldest fruit-bearing grapevine<br />

in South Africa. Room rates start at around 2,100 rand for a<br />

standard double and go up to about 10,500 rand for a twobedroom<br />

executive apartment.<br />

90 Bree Street, capeheritage.co.za<br />

Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel<br />

If you’ve ever wanted to sleep in a vintage Airstream Trailer<br />

(those sleek 1950s chrome caravans) the four-star Grand<br />

Daddy Boutique Hotel has outfitted seven of them with beds<br />

and working kitchens as urban hideaways on its rooftop. The<br />

hotel also has ordinary brick-and-mortar room and suites, all<br />

with flatscreen TVs and air conditioning. There’s something<br />

of a hip, party atmosphere at this CBD hotel, with the outdoor<br />

Pink Flamingo cinema on the roof, and two cocktail bars.<br />

Standard rooms go for about 2,895 rand a night and the<br />

Airstream Trailers cost 4,295 rand per night.<br />

38 Long Street, granddaddy.co.za<br />

Cape Town Lodge Hotel<br />

A less pricey option (starting at 1,070 rand) within walking<br />

distance of Bree Street is the Cape Town Lodge Hotel and<br />

Conference Center, with 123 rooms as well as self-catering<br />

apartments (or lofts) in an urban tower with views on Table<br />

Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. A preferred option for<br />

business travellers and conference events, offering corporate<br />

rates and internet access, the hotel also boasts amenities<br />

for relaxing: a rooftop terrace with outdoor swimming pool,<br />

indoor gym, buffet-style dining and funky, colourful décor in<br />

the reception and lobby.<br />

101 Buitengracht Street, capetownlodge.co.za


34 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />

Left (clockwise<br />

from top left):<br />

Sidewalk Cafe in<br />

Vredehoek; Imiso<br />

ceramics in Woodstock;<br />

Industrial heritage<br />

Right: Bakoven,<br />

towards Hout Bay<br />

“Woodstock’s former warehouses,<br />

foundries and factories have followed the<br />

example of The Old Biscuit Mill”<br />

Seaside dining in Paternoster<br />

Just east of Cape Town, the wineries and restaurants<br />

of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch represent the<br />

best of South African gastronomy. In recent years,<br />

however, a lesser known foodie-hotspot has been<br />

taking shape in Paternoster, a little fishing village<br />

up the West Coast. Here, well-known chefs such as<br />

Reuben Riff and Jaco Kruger have been opening or<br />

taking over restaurants (Reuben’s at Abalone House<br />

and Gaaitjie, respectively). The most innovative of<br />

the bunch, however, is chef Kobus van der Merwe,<br />

whose Wolfgat is highly acclaimed. His hyperlocal<br />

strandveld cuisine is named after herbs and<br />

succulents foraged from the beach, and inspired by<br />

South African cooking traditions.<br />

GAAITJIE<br />

Off Sampson Street, Paternoster<br />

gaaitjie.co.za<br />

REUBEN’S AT ABALONE HOUSE<br />

3 Kriedoring Street, Paternoster<br />

abalonehouse.co.za<br />

WOLFGAT<br />

10 Sampson Street, Paternoster<br />

wolfgat.co.za<br />

and Argentinian empanadas to Dutch poffertjes or Valencian<br />

paella. It is also a great place to stock up on local organic<br />

produce, wines and craft beers.<br />

UP-AND-COMING TALENT<br />

Many of Woodstock’s former warehouses, foundries and<br />

decommissioned factories have followed the example of The<br />

Old Biscuit Mill, and most of them are located along Albert<br />

Road, the neighbourhood’s main commercial thoroughfare.<br />

A few minutes’ walk away from The Old Biscuit Mill, for<br />

example, a large warehouse has been converted into a co-op<br />

for emerging artisans and fashion designers. Named the<br />

Threads Project, it is the brainchild of Greg Swanepoel, a<br />

clothing wholesaler who decided to share his three decades’<br />

worth of expertise in the industry with up-and-coming talent.<br />

By sharing a space, and the associated logistics of running<br />

a small business, the project allows young entrepreneurs to<br />

spend more time and energy on simply being creative, and less<br />

on the everyday drudgery of accounting or managing their<br />

e-commerce. Everyone rents their own space in the building,<br />

and the range of products on offer is as eclectic as it could be:<br />

from art prints and bright bikinis to environmentally-friendly<br />

cork handbags, bamboo socks and hand-drawn illustrations.<br />

The majority of it is made and designed in Cape Town.<br />

Closer to the city centre, the store fronts along Albert<br />

Road start to look a lot more polished. Furniture showrooms<br />

are no longer limited to local artwork, but also display pricey<br />

Dutch and Danish design furniture.<br />

It’s hardly surprising when Swanepoel laments that<br />

property prices in Woodstock are soaring. “Now that this<br />

part of town has reached a certain point of maturity and<br />

saturation, we’re noticing a swing back to the city centre<br />

again,” he says, referring to Bree Street and the rest of the<br />

CBD. It seems that the two most happening districts of Cape<br />

Town are settling on a hipness-equilibrium.<br />

➔<br />

Plan your trip<br />

Enjoy two great African destinations in a single trip. Flights are now<br />

available from Nairobi to Cape Town via Livingstone, Zambia, and as<br />

of May 1 also via Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Flights depart from both<br />

destinations three times a week. Book these or other flights to Cape<br />

Town on kenya-airways.com.<br />

Left page: Mirjam Bleeker, Imiso (top right) Right page: Dana van Leeuwen


TRAVEL / 35<br />

“The views along<br />

the Atlantic Seaboard<br />

are priceless”


36 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />

Synergies<br />

in Sound<br />

At Coke Studio Africa the MOST TALENTED<br />

names from across the continent come together<br />

to take their music to a whole NEW LEVEL<br />

of COOL. Meet five of our continent’s mash-up<br />

music stars.<br />

text Eva de Vries photos Coke Studio Africa<br />

Reggae & Dancehall Star<br />

Stonebwoy<br />

Name:<br />

Livingstone Etse Satekla<br />

Born:<br />

5 March 1988, Ghana<br />

Hometown:<br />

Ashaiman, Ghana<br />

Music genre:<br />

Reggae, dancehall<br />

Popular songs:<br />

“Go Higher”, “People Dey”<br />

Coke Studio collaboration:<br />

with Haile Roots (Ethiopia)<br />

Follow him:<br />

@stonebwoyb (Twitter, Instagram)<br />

HIS FULL NAME is Livingstone Etse Satekla,<br />

but as a boy, his father used to call him Stone. During<br />

his first radio performance, the presenter announced<br />

him with the words: “We have one Stone Boy here.”<br />

The name stuck, although the spelling changed.<br />

Stonebwoy is a man of many talents. He is a multifaceted<br />

rapper who raps in many languages, but he is<br />

most famous for burning up the music charts and<br />

clubs with his reggae and dancehall music.<br />

Stonebwoy is the first son in a family of seven and<br />

grew up singing. Ghana fell in love with his crisp<br />

sound and catchy songs. He saw his invitation to be<br />

part of Coke Studio Africa as a great opportunity to<br />

work together with Haile Roots, and to travel. “The<br />

project brought me to Kenya for the first time,”<br />

Stonebwoy says with a smile. “I hope to be able to<br />

visit the game parks.”<br />

One of his major achievements is winning the<br />

Black Entertainment Television (BET) Award for Best<br />

International Act in 2015. “I couldn’t believe it when<br />

I heard my name,” Stonebwoy recalls. “But apparently,<br />

things went rather well. Many people voted for me, so<br />

they really wanted me to win.” That same year, his<br />

second album, Necessary Evil, was the recipient of<br />

three Ghana Music Awards.<br />

Like many songwriters, Stonebwoy uses his own<br />

life and experiences as his major inspiration for his<br />

lyrics. “I want every song to tell a story, even when it<br />

is just a fun song,” he says. “Good lyrics ‘tickle’ the<br />

mind. Writing song lyrics keeps me sharp and helps<br />

me grow. We singers are literally the voice of the<br />

people. I will keep making good music and addressing<br />

important issues.”


“Life is my<br />

inspiration.<br />

Everything<br />

that happens<br />

in life is my<br />

teacher”<br />

PEOPLE / 37


38 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />

Queen of Afro-Soul<br />

Dela<br />

Name:<br />

Adeline Maranga<br />

Born:<br />

20 February 1989, Kenya<br />

Home town:<br />

Nairobi, Kenya<br />

Music genre:<br />

Afro-soul<br />

Popular songs:<br />

“Mafeelings”, “Weche Tek”<br />

Coke Studio collaboration:<br />

with Patoranking (Nigeria) and Vanessa<br />

Mdee (Tanzania)<br />

Follow her:<br />

@delamuziki (Twitter)<br />

“I want to do what I love:<br />

sing and perform”<br />

“HELLO NI MIMI”, Dela’s Swahili cover of Adele’s<br />

international hit “Hello” is goosebump-inducing. This<br />

beautiful singer’s irresistible voice and expressive vocals are<br />

made to be played on repeat. Dela, who has been compared to<br />

American singer Alicia Keys, sings Afro-soul creatively infused<br />

with reggae, funk and techno. Not only has her music taken<br />

her all over Africa, she has also toured Europe with sold-out<br />

concerts in Stockholm, Amsterdam and London.<br />

Dela has been moving to the rhythm of music her whole<br />

life. “It all started when I was very young,” she says. “My sister<br />

and I used to sing songs for visitors, and afterwards my uncles<br />

gave us money to buy candy.”<br />

After joining church choirs and school bands, she decided<br />

to go solo. “Music is my life,” she says. “It gives me joy,<br />

happiness and so much fulfillment.” Her song lyrics are<br />

inspired by everyday experiences from her own life and from<br />

the lives of people she knows. “Love, social issues, the good<br />

and the bad, basically what I see going on around me,” she<br />

says. But her number-one inspiration is her mother: “She is the<br />

strongest woman I know. She can literally do anything.”<br />

Performing with Coke Studio brought Dela’s music to a<br />

higher level and she enjoys working with artists from other<br />

African countries. “This platform brings Africa together<br />

through music,” she says. “It is an excellent way to explore the<br />

continent’s different sounds and share them with the rest of<br />

the world.”<br />

Through her music, Dela hopes to inspire young people.<br />

“I want to encourage the youth to follow their dreams,” she<br />

says. “If you really want something in life, you need to do your<br />

best and go for it.”


PEOPLE / 39<br />

King of Rap<br />

E.L.<br />

Name:<br />

Elom Adablah<br />

Born:<br />

28 June 1983, Ghana<br />

Hometown:<br />

New Jersey, US<br />

Music genre:<br />

Rap<br />

Popular songs:<br />

“Shelele”, “Koko”, “One Ghana”<br />

Coke Studio collaboration:<br />

with Jaguar (Kenya) and DJ Maphorisa<br />

(South Africa)<br />

Follow him:<br />

@ELrepGH (Twitter, Instagram)<br />

“I don’t look up to anyone. Instead,<br />

I have people who challenge me”<br />

WITH HIS BACKWARDS BASEBALL CAP, sunglasses<br />

and bling, Elom Adablah, also known as E.L, looks every inch the<br />

typical rap star. But this multiple award-winning rapper is more<br />

substance than style: he is also a music producer (known for tunes<br />

like “Shelele” and “One Ghana”), a sound engineer, a writer of<br />

movie scores and president of the record label to which he is<br />

signed, BBnZ Live.<br />

Since earning a name for himself in Ghana as the “King of<br />

Rap,” he has been determined to take the international stage,<br />

and he has already performed in Nigeria, South Africa, the US<br />

and Britain.<br />

As a young boy, E.L had other dreams. “I wanted to be a<br />

pilot. Flying was what I desperately wanted to do,” he says. But<br />

one day, his father brought home a piano and he decided he<br />

wanted to become a musician. “Hearing the magical sound that<br />

came out of that instrument was life changing.” He went to<br />

university to study political science, but he couldn’t forget his<br />

true passion. “I just had to follow my heart,” he says.<br />

Faced with a competitive and often harsh music scene, it<br />

wasn’t easy for E.L to get to where he is today. He is very proud<br />

of his accomplishments so far.<br />

“The road I have taken − the lessons, the prizes, but also the<br />

scars − have made me the man I am today,” he says. Now E.L<br />

would like to become a mentor for other African artists. “I want<br />

to help them to get international audiences, as well as the<br />

recognition and appreciation that they deserve,” he says. As for<br />

the rapper himself, he has an interest in fashion and broadcasting,<br />

but will continue doing what he loves most. “I can’t say I’ll be<br />

jumping on stage when I’m 60, but I’ll still be creative and will<br />

keep developing my skills as a musician.”


40 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />

Rising Voice<br />

Lydia<br />

Jazmine<br />

Name:<br />

Lydia Jazmine<br />

Born:<br />

27 July 1991, Uganda<br />

Hometown:<br />

Kampala, Uganda<br />

Music genre:<br />

Dancehall<br />

Popular songs:<br />

“Guno Omukwano”, “Tondekangawo”<br />

Coke Studio collaboration:<br />

with Kiss Daniel (Nigeria) and Bahati (Kenya)<br />

Follow her:<br />

@lydiajazmine (Instagram)<br />

“I want to carry African music to all<br />

corners of the world”<br />

HER NAME IS LYDIA JAZMINE and she is being hailed<br />

as “the finest dancehall musician in Uganda”. This sparkling<br />

gem from the Pearl of Africa clearly loves making music. From<br />

calm love songs to wild, danceable records, she sings from the<br />

heart in Luganda as well as in English. With her colourful<br />

dresses, sporty short haircuts and big earrings, she stands out<br />

from a crowd.<br />

When Jazmine was in primary school, she was part of a<br />

girl band. “We used to imitate the Spice Girls and TLC during<br />

talent shows,” she says. She already knew that this was what she<br />

wanted to do. “Music is a talent I am blessed with,” she says<br />

confidently, but with reason. She grew up leading a church choir,<br />

participating in school music competitions around the country<br />

and watching lots of music videos.<br />

“I will be representing Uganda on Coke Studio, along with<br />

the biggest talents on the continent. It is my first international<br />

gig. A dream will come true,” she wrote on her Facebook page.<br />

She didn’t have to think twice about accepting the offer. “No<br />

serious artist can turn down such an opportunity.”<br />

As a young musician trying to make her way to the top,<br />

Jazmine also faces challenges, particularly finding ways to overcome<br />

the cost of producing music. Recording, shooting videos,<br />

promotion: it all costs money. Another challenge of a career in<br />

the spotlight is the rumours that are sometimes spread by<br />

the media.<br />

“These stories weaken our fan base because some people<br />

believe everything they read,” she says. But the strong and<br />

persistent Jazmine is no quitter. She stays devoted to her<br />

passion and is determined to achieve her dreams, “I want to<br />

carry African music to all corners of the world,” she says.


PEOPLE / 41<br />

Dancehall Duo<br />

Navy<br />

Kenzo<br />

Names:<br />

Aika Marealle & Emmanuel Mkono (Nahreel)<br />

Born:<br />

Aika: 19 February (year not given), Tanzania<br />

Nahreel: 12 December 1989, Tanzania<br />

Hometown:<br />

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania<br />

Music genre:<br />

Rap, hip-hop, dancehall<br />

Popular songs:<br />

“Kamatia”, “Chelewa”<br />

Coke Studio collaboration:<br />

with Dama do Bling (Mozambique)<br />

Follow them:<br />

@NavyKenzo (Twitter),<br />

@navykenzoofficial (Instagram)<br />

“Music is happiness, expression and<br />

freedom. A language that connects”<br />

“Local bongo-style hip-hop is especially popular in Tanzania,<br />

but we wanted to try something unique,” says Emmanuel Mkono,<br />

who goes by the stage name Nahreel, and is one half of the dancehall<br />

duo Navy Kenzo. “Nobody had ever done this type of music<br />

before, so we decided to jump in.” Making dancehall music with<br />

song lyrics fusing Swahili and English has proved to be a hit combination<br />

in both Tanzania and neighbouring countries. The music<br />

video for their club hit “Kamatia” has had two-and-a-half million<br />

views, and is officially the biggest song in East Africa to date.<br />

After meeting in India as students in 2008, Nahreel and Aika<br />

Marealle returned to their homeland in 2011 and joined the hiphop<br />

group Pah One (of the popular single “I Wanna Get Paid”),<br />

but they left and formed Navy Kenzo two years later. Marealle<br />

says that her earliest inspiration came from Beyoncé, even though<br />

she didn’t always understand her English lyrics. “I used to sing her<br />

songs and try out her dance moves at school talent shows,” she<br />

says. Nahreel’s introduction to music came from his father, who<br />

brough home a piano one day, surprising his ecstatic son. “Music<br />

means happiness and freedom to me,” he says. “It’s a powerful<br />

language that connects people all over the world.”<br />

Navy Kenzo participated in the Coke Studio Africa shows<br />

because they said “the world needs to hear the African beats”.<br />

“It was great to compose new songs with artists from other<br />

countries,” says Nahreel. “It reminded me how creative we are<br />

as people and that there really are no limits to music.”<br />

Watch Coke Studio Africa’s mash-ups on www.coca-cola.co.ke/cokestudio, YouTube or<br />

download the mobile app. Kenya Airways actively supports cultural exchange within the<br />

African continent and beyond, especially for the youth. Kenya Airways has supported Coke<br />

Studio since 2015, and flew all artists to their Coke Studio performance in Nairobi.


42 / BUSINESS / Beer<br />

HERITAGE<br />

IN A<br />

BOTTLE<br />

TUSKER BEER is not just a beer – it’s a<br />

national emblem. Brewed in Kenya with local<br />

ingredients for almost a century, STIRS PRIDE<br />

in Kenyans like few other things.<br />

“Tasting a Tusker is like tasting Kenya itself.”<br />

text Nils Elzenga and Nina Siegal<br />

Getty Images


BUSINESS / 43<br />

WHEN KENYANS go abroad,<br />

there is one thing they rarely forget to<br />

pack: their Tusker T-shirt. Sporting the<br />

iconic image of a silhouetted elephant<br />

head on a yellow background, the<br />

logo has remained largely unchanged<br />

throughout the beer's history.<br />

“Wherever I go, people always<br />

recognise it,” says Justin Wachira, a<br />

Nairobi-based film editor who travels<br />

regularly for work. “Wearing it is a great<br />

way to make friends.” On a recent trip to<br />

Uganda, where Tusker enjoys a growing<br />

popularity, he mentioned that he was<br />

Kenyan at a bar and “people reacted<br />

with ‘Ah, Tusker!’”<br />

East Africa’s largest selling beer is<br />

not just an emblem for Kenya; Tusker is<br />

a brand that, for many who drink it and<br />

work for the company, represents a<br />

proud heritage of perseverance through<br />

hardship, good sportsmanship and<br />

nation building.<br />

In his book, “Hops and Glory: One<br />

man’s search for the beer that built the<br />

British Empire,” British beer historian<br />

Pete Brown reflects on the fact that<br />

Tusker seems to resonate with Kenyans<br />

as part of their national identity. “It’s<br />

more than just a beer; it’s a symbol of<br />

the country, a source of national pride,”<br />

writes Brown. “When the ads come on<br />

the TV in a pub it’s not unknown for<br />

everyone to stand up and sing along<br />

with a patriotic jingle, arms slammed<br />

across chests in respectful salute.”<br />

WHAT’S IN A NAME?<br />

But what is it that makes this lager<br />

more than just a beer, but part of the<br />

Kenyan heritage?<br />

The history of Tusker is linked to the<br />

very early development of the nation. It<br />

begins, somewhat circuitously, with a<br />

railway that came to be known later as<br />

the Lunatic Line. In the late 19th century,<br />

the British Empire wanted a quick route<br />

through East Africa to Lake Victoria, the<br />

source of the Nile. The plan was to build<br />

a railway from Mombasa on the Indian<br />

Ocean all the way across southwestern<br />

Kenya to Uganda, but the line was<br />

considered a terrible idea by many,<br />

and after many mishaps, the project<br />

collapsed in 1900 – a lucky turn for the<br />

continent’s indigenous cultures and<br />

wildlife. The British government had<br />

lost millions in the process, and was<br />

seeking a way to recover its losses by<br />

encouraging Brits to settle and invest in<br />

the country. That was what brought the<br />

brothers George and Charles Hurst to<br />

Kenya; experienced brewers, farmers<br />

and gold prospectors, they set up their<br />

own brewery in 1922 and registered it<br />

as Kenya Breweries. They made the beer<br />

using local hops and yeast, brewed in a<br />

few copper vessels heated by firewood<br />

and bottled by hand.<br />

They delivered their first cases of<br />

beer to the Stanley Hotel in Nairobi,<br />

where it reportedly met with mixed<br />

reactions. The following year, 1923,<br />

George Hurst, an avid hunter who had<br />

once been mauled by a lion, embarked<br />

on an elephant hunting expedition.<br />

Instead of returning home with the<br />

anticipated bounty, he was trampled<br />

Historic Tuskers<br />

Kenya Breweries Ltd. was formally incorporated as a private company in<br />

1922, with headquarters in Nairobi, and the first beer was brewed on 14<br />

December. Later, it would become East African Breweries Ltd.<br />

and killed by a bad-tempered male<br />

elephant, also known as a tusker.<br />

Charles continued to run the family<br />

brewery on his own, and decided to<br />

name their first lager Tusker, in honour<br />

of his brother. Although the first<br />

batches of beer hadn’t met with much<br />

enthusiasm, he continued to explore ways<br />

to improve its recipe and production<br />

processes. In 1929, the company started<br />

using local malted barley instead of<br />

imported malt extracts, significantly<br />

enhancing Tusker's flavour, and the<br />

lager was officially launched the<br />

following year.<br />

LOCAL INGREDIENTS<br />

Tusker’s flavour is uniquely Kenyan.<br />

Its hand-selected barley derives from<br />

the Narok plains in the southern<br />

Rift Valley and the water used in every<br />

bottle comes from spring water collected<br />

in the Aberdare Mountains. The yeast<br />

used in every bottle comes from a<br />

long-term strain that’s bespoke to Tusker.<br />

Even as Tusker has grown into a<br />

popular international brand, sold in the<br />

US, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan and<br />

India, it still produces all its beer in<br />

Kenya. Most beers that have a global<br />

market are brewed under license in<br />

countries nearer to where their product ><br />

“Using local hops and yeast,<br />

they brewed the beer in a few copper vessels<br />

heated by firewood and bottled by hand”


44 / BUSINESS / Beer<br />

TUSKER THROUGH<br />

THE YEARS<br />

1922 Brothers George and Charles<br />

Hurst found Kenya Breweries Limited.<br />

“Beers that are only<br />

produced in their native<br />

headquarters are few<br />

and far between”<br />

1936 Kenya Breweries merges with<br />

Tanganyika Breweries to form East<br />

African Breweries Limited (EABL).<br />

1938 EABL wins its first prize in an<br />

international competition.<br />

1954 EABL is listed in the Nairobi<br />

Securities Exchange.<br />

is sold, says Richard Smeek, deputy<br />

chairman of the advertising agency<br />

BBDO EMEA, which handles the<br />

Tusker account, but Tusker is one of<br />

the few that sells strictly by export<br />

(Guinness, which is only brewed in<br />

Ireland, is another).<br />

“Beers that are only produced in<br />

their native headquarters are few and<br />

far between,” says Smeek. The lager is<br />

filtered, carbonated and bottled before<br />

being distributed by truck, train, boat<br />

and plane to all corners of the globe,<br />

through distribution partners in South<br />

Sudan, Burundi, the Democratic<br />

Republic of Congo and Rwanda.<br />

By keeping production in Africa, the<br />

East African Brewing Limited, formerly<br />

Kenya Breweries, is contributing to<br />

the local economy, employing more<br />

than 1,500 East Africans, and indirectly<br />

creating more than 2 million jobs in<br />

the region.<br />

Beer aficionados like Brad John-<br />

Davis, the general manager at Nairobi &<br />

Arusha Urban Adventures, appreciate<br />

the taste most of all. He calls it “our”<br />

lager ‒ though he is in no way involved in<br />

its production, and describes it on his<br />

blog: “The light grain flavours with a<br />

mild, underlying sweetness give way to<br />

a hoppy bitterness at the finish.”<br />

MY COUNTRY, MY BEER<br />

Because of Tusker’s long history in<br />

Kenya and its connection to its land,<br />

people and water, it’s easy for Kenyans<br />

to regard it as part of their cultural<br />

heritage, and the company’s marketing<br />

strategy has long reflected that sense of<br />

pride. In the 1990s, when South African<br />

Castle breweries began to expand into<br />

the East African market, Tusker<br />

mounted a campaign using the slogan<br />

Bia Yangu, Nchi Yangu, Swahili for<br />

Alamy<br />

Olympic gold<br />

In 1968, when Kenyan track and field legend<br />

Kipchoge Keino represented his country in<br />

the Tokyo Olympic Games, he was sponsored<br />

by Tusker. Keino won two gold and two silver<br />

Olympic medals, and is now chairman of the<br />

Kenyan Olympic Committee and board member<br />

of the International Olympic Committee. in<br />

2016 Tusker became the official sponsor of<br />

the Kenyan Olympic Team, which did the nation<br />

proud in Rio. Tusker also founded its own<br />

football club: Tusker FC, the current Kenyan<br />

Premier League champion and holder of the<br />

national GOTV Shield Cup.<br />

“My country, my beer”, coined by Judy<br />

Kibinge, the first non-expat creative<br />

director at McCann Erickson. The campaign<br />

was successful, ultimately forcing<br />

Castle out of the Kenyan market; East<br />

African Brewing also agreed to leave<br />

the Tanzanian market to Castle. Its<br />

TV commercial, a panoramic journey<br />

following Tusker all over the country<br />

with a background jingle by Kenya’s<br />

renowned Muungano National Choir,<br />

became the country's most popular<br />

advertisement.<br />

At age 95, Tusker continues to hold<br />

30 percent of the Kenyan beer market,<br />

making it the country’s most popular<br />

beer. East African Breweries reported<br />

more than US$100 million in profit in<br />

2016. The brand continues to see itself<br />

as integral to the nation, and to the<br />

sense of Kenyan pride. “For me Tusker<br />

has always been a brand that doesn’t<br />

just compete in Africa, but also holds<br />

its own on the world stage,” says Peter<br />

Brown. “That has always been the root<br />

of the pride Kenyans have for it, because<br />

it’s what they aspire to themselves.”<br />

1960 The first Africans, J.M.<br />

Muchura and J. Thuo, join the EABL<br />

board of directors.<br />

1969 Football Club Tusker FC is<br />

founded, and later becomes the<br />

third-most-successful football club in<br />

Kenyan history, winning the Kenyan<br />

Premier League 11 times to date.<br />

1997 KBL installs an ultra-modern<br />

bottling line at its Nairobi-based<br />

Tusker Brewery.<br />

2000 Diageo, a global leader in<br />

beverage alcohol, acquires majority<br />

stake in EABL.<br />

2002 EABL signs licence<br />

agreements with South African<br />

Breweries.<br />

2005 EABL becomes the first East<br />

African company to reach US$1 billion<br />

in value.<br />

2008 UK supermarket chain Tesco<br />

starts selling Tusker, and is soon<br />

followed by Sainsbury’s.<br />

Tusker Beer is available on all<br />

international flights operated<br />

by Kenya Airways.


KQ / 45


46 / BUSINESS / Country at a Glance<br />

At a glance<br />

Tanzania<br />

Did you Have know a closer that look it boasts at the potential 30 species of of Tanzania. monkeys?<br />

These most FACTS relevant AND FACTS FIGURES AND FIGURES, explore<br />

the nation’s touristic natural attractions resources, and social economy trend and of today. attractions.<br />

Text text Desiree Hoving Infographics infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />

Sources: Focus Economics, February <strong>2017</strong>, Tan zania Tourist Board<br />

Sources: Focus Economics, February <strong>2017</strong>, Tan zania Tourist Board<br />

Official name: United Republic<br />

of of Tanzania<br />

Population:<br />

48.6 million people<br />

GPD:<br />

US$25,2 million<br />

Capital:<br />

Dodoma<br />

Currency:<br />

Tanzanian Shilling<br />

Local time:<br />

GMT+3<br />

Neighbouring<br />

countries:<br />

Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda,<br />

1000 km km<br />

Burundi, the Democratic Republic<br />

of of the Congo, Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique<br />

Languages:<br />

Swahili, English and a a number of of individual<br />

languages<br />

Flights:<br />

Kenya Airways flies five times a a day to to Dar es es Salaam<br />

and Kilimanjaro, and eight times a a week to to Zanzibar<br />

GDP divided<br />

in in sectors<br />

Mining<br />

Agriculture<br />

Public<br />

admini-<br />

194<br />

stration<br />

316<br />

1,154<br />

6,6%<br />

Mount Kilimanjaro<br />

Highest mountain in in Africa<br />

(5,895 m above sea level)<br />

and largest free-standing<br />

mountain in in the world; a a<br />

major climbing destination.<br />

National<br />

parks<br />

Almost 38 38 percent<br />

of of the country<br />

is is protected<br />

area, one of of the<br />

world’s highest<br />

percentages.<br />

Crater<br />

The Ngorongoro<br />

Crater is is the largest<br />

intact ancient caldera<br />

in in the world, nearly<br />

3,000,000 years old.<br />

Serengeti<br />

National Park<br />

One of of the ten natural<br />

wonders of of the world,<br />

because of of the largest<br />

overland mammal migration.<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Several islands in in the<br />

Indian Ocean with white<br />

sand beaches and<br />

coral, ideal for for diving<br />

and snorkling.<br />

385<br />

6,4%<br />

Source: Statista.com<br />

Source: Statista.com<br />

Manufacturing<br />

5,1%<br />

’10 ’10 ’12 ’12 ’14 ’14 ’16 ’16 ’18 ’18 ’20 ’20<br />

GDP growth compared to to the the<br />

previous year in in Tanzania<br />

(in (in percentages)<br />

580<br />

x x 11 million US$<br />

Construction<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

Largest city and commercial capital with a a large port.<br />

Sources: Lonely Planet, Tanzania Tourist Board<br />

Sources: Lonely Planet, Tanzania Tourist Board


BUSINESS / 47<br />

Tanzania is is the evolutionary cradle of of primate diversity. It It is is home to to<br />

more than 30 30 species of of monkeys, apes and prosimians –– the<br />

primitive ancestors of of modern primates. The thirteen most common<br />

groups of of primates and the year they were first documented.<br />

3. 3. Dwarf<br />

2. 2. Lesser<br />

galagos<br />

galagos<br />

1833<br />

1796<br />

1. 1. Greater<br />

galagos<br />

1859<br />

5. 5. Patas monkey<br />

1897<br />

Most imported and exported goods expressed in in US US dollar amount<br />

Import<br />

Other medicaments<br />

Spelt, common<br />

Telegraph<br />

of of mixed or or unmixed<br />

wheat and meslin<br />

apparatus<br />

products<br />

222<br />

148<br />

300<br />

130 130<br />

amounts x 1 x 1 million US$<br />

Road<br />

tractors<br />

4. 4. Arboreal<br />

guenons<br />

1758<br />

6. 6. Savannah monkeys<br />

1870<br />

9. 9. Baboonmangabeys<br />

1903<br />

Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net<br />

Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net<br />

10. 10.<br />

Kipunji<br />

2006<br />

8. 8. Drill-mangabeys<br />

1812<br />

7. 7. Baboons<br />

1777<br />

13. 13. Chimpanzees 1816<br />

11. 11. Blackand-white<br />

and red red colobus<br />

colobus,<br />

monkeys<br />

1811<br />

1887<br />

Tanzania is is a a popular honeymoon destination.<br />

Many hotels in in Zanzibar, along the<br />

coast and the northern safari<br />

2<br />

1<br />

circuit offer suites and<br />

private candlelit<br />

Lake Victoria is is<br />

dinners.<br />

Africa’s largest<br />

freshwater lake.<br />

12. 12. Olive colobus<br />

It’s It’s inhabited by by<br />

3<br />

some of of the<br />

world’s largest<br />

Freddie<br />

tilapia and sport<br />

Mercury,<br />

fishing is is<br />

the lead vocalist<br />

flourishing.<br />

of of the British band<br />

‘Queen’ is is a a Tanzanian<br />

by by birth and was born<br />

in in Zanzibar, in in<br />

Stone Town.<br />

4<br />

Tanzania is is<br />

home to to<br />

about<br />

120 tribal<br />

(mostly small)<br />

groups,<br />

Tanzania is is<br />

one of of Africa’s<br />

5<br />

most stable<br />

countries.<br />

In In June<br />

the annual<br />

Bulabo Dance Festival<br />

is is held at at the Sukuma<br />

Museum. The Sukuma is is Tanzania’s<br />

largest ethnic group, with nearly<br />

15 15 percent of of the country’s population.<br />

Precious metal<br />

ores and<br />

concentrates<br />

Television<br />

receivers including<br />

video monitors<br />

Petroleum oils<br />

7,328<br />

Tanzania<br />

Gold<br />

1,430<br />

459<br />

262<br />

351<br />

251<br />

Export<br />

Cashew nuts<br />

Brans, sharps<br />

and other residues<br />

of of wheat<br />

Sources: wits.worldbank.org (WITS)<br />

Sources: wits.worldbank.org (WITS)


Getty Images<br />

48 / TREND / Innovation


TREND / 49<br />

Hub<br />

Hub<br />

Hooray<br />

Technology entrepreneurs<br />

working within the LEADING<br />

TECH HUBS in Kenya,<br />

South Africa and Nigeria are<br />

illuminating the path for an<br />

booming industry.<br />

text Eromo Egbejule<br />

WHEN BILLIONAIRE Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg<br />

first visited Africa in August 2016, he said that he was awed by<br />

the innovation spaces and dynamic local tech start-up culture<br />

that he experienced in Kenya and Nigeria. Two months earlier,<br />

his Chan Zuckerberg Initiative had financed its first-ever technology<br />

venture in Africa with a US$ 24 million investment in<br />

Andela, the Nigerian start-up that connects rookie programmers<br />

with clients around the world.<br />

During his trip he also visited Nairobi to break bread with<br />

the local entrepreneurs, to learn about mobile money, and to<br />

check on Bridge International Academies, a low-cost private<br />

school chain financially backed by Zuckerberg and Bill Gates.<br />

A 2015 Disrupt Africa report calculated that 125 start-ups<br />

across the continent had raised funds to the tune of US$ 185.7<br />

million that same year. Kenyan, Nigerian and South African<br />

start-ups in particular were thriving, and had already secured<br />

several rounds of funding. This trio received the lion’s share of<br />

2015’s start-up investments: 36 percent to companies in South<br />

Africa, 24 percent to Nigeria and 14 percent to Kenya.<br />

INNOVATIVE THINKING<br />

Young entrepreneurs are at the core of these success stories.<br />

They are emerging from the African tech hotspots known in<br />

domestic circles as Yaba Right/Yabacon Valley (in Nigeria),<br />

Silicon Savannah (in Kenya) and Silicon Cape (in South Africa).<br />

“These hubs provide real ecosystems for young people to<br />

hang out with their peers, and to work through ideas for apps<br />

and services,” says Toby Shapshak, the Johannesburg-based<br />

editor of Stuff magazine and one of South Africa’s most<br />

recognised tech bloggers. “The internet connections are decent,<br />

and they can experience the kind of work environment that<br />

fosters innovative thinking.” >


50 / TREND / Innovation<br />

Shutterstock<br />

One factor contributing to the dynamic energy of these<br />

hubs is the abundance of raw talent and the high rate of<br />

adaptability of African youth to new technologies. Unlike<br />

their counterparts in other continents who have been able to<br />

plug into a well-oiled system of technology development, the<br />

African start-up culture provides entrepreneurs with fertile<br />

ground for home-grown solutions to the many problems<br />

plaguing their compatriots.<br />

KENYAN CREATIVITY<br />

Today, the African landscape is dotted with more than 300<br />

incubator hubs according to GSMA’s Ecosystem Accelerator,<br />

the global telecoms industry body. Half of these hubs are<br />

concentrated in five countries: Kenya, South Africa, Nigeria,<br />

Morocco and Egypt. Nigeria’s CcHub, Kenya’s iHub, South<br />

Africa’s JoziHub and Silicon Cape are considered the leading<br />

hotbeds of innovation, breeding grounds for Africa’s<br />

technology revolution.<br />

The iHub space in Kenya was established in 2010 by some<br />

of the most prominent members of the nation’s tech community,<br />

Erik Hersman, Juliana Rotich and Ory Okolloh. In less than<br />

seven years, this innovation hub has nurtured more than 170<br />

initiatives from the ground up, including the e-learning start-up<br />

Eneza Education, one of Africa’s most widely-used mobile<br />

education platforms.<br />

“The tech world of Nairobi in 2010 was very different from<br />

what it is today,” says Hersman, iHub’s founder. “There were<br />

only a handful of start-ups, and the surface of what we could<br />

do if we worked together hadn’t been scratched.”<br />

As iHub began to grow in stature, it attracted funding and<br />

endorsements from the Omidyar Network, a philanthropic<br />

investment firm, and mobile operators like Safaricom.<br />

“These hubs provide<br />

real ecosystems for<br />

young people to hang out<br />

with their peers,<br />

and to work through ideas<br />

for apps and services”<br />

– Toby Shapshak –<br />

Magazine editor & innovation expert<br />

Kenyan start-ups to watch<br />

• Mawingu – Provides internet connectivity for<br />

rural Kenya using solar-powered Wi-Fi routers.<br />

• M-Farm – Helps small and medium-scale farmers<br />

determine market rates using mobile phones.<br />

• Ushahidi – Open source platform used to monitor<br />

election violence and to crowdsource disaster data.


TREND / 51<br />

More recently, Eric Schmidt connected to Googe and<br />

Yahoo’s Marissa Mayer visited the country, and the emergence<br />

of high-profile Kenyan investors last year offered another<br />

massive boost.<br />

INCUBATOR HUBS IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

The Omidyar Network, backed by Google and propelled<br />

by the Praekelt Foundation, was also involved in the launch<br />

of the JoziHub, a co-creation space focused on sustainable<br />

change, in Johannesburg in 2013. Also in South Africa is the<br />

world-class Innovation Hub set up by the Gauteng provincial<br />

government in 2001. This “science park” was launched to<br />

stimulate the overall advancement of science and technology,<br />

and is the only accredited facility of its kind in sub-Saharan<br />

Africa, with major companies such as the mLab start-up<br />

accelerator programme.<br />

NIGERIAN PARTNERSHIPS<br />

In 2010, Bosun Tijani and Femi Longe, two Nigerians who<br />

had studied overseas, joined forces to build the Co-creation<br />

Hub (CcHub), Nigeria’s first open living lab and pre-incubation<br />

space, which has since acquired cult status.<br />

After managing to broker a deal that effectively turned<br />

their office street into a fibre optic-powered information superhighway,<br />

CcHub has gone on to secure partnership and funding<br />

from the Lagos state government and organisations like Indigo<br />

Trust and the Omidyar Network.<br />

“We’ve seen people come with just an ordinary idea, and<br />

watched them build a proper income-generating organisation,”<br />

says Tijani. CcHub has functioned as an incubator space to<br />

some of the most popular Nigerian tech companies, which it<br />

discovers at its regular hackathons.<br />

One of them is BudgIT, which was discussed by Bill Gates<br />

in a Nelson Mandela Memorial Lecture last year. This organisation<br />

facilitates societal change in Nigeria by helping to simplify<br />

government budgets and ensure fiscal transparency. It was<br />

founded in 2011 by Oluseun Onigbinde, a former banker<br />

who was fed up with the government’s financial secrecy.<br />

CcHub provided them with 5,000 BPS in seed money to<br />

start the venture, and since then the start-up has secured<br />

funding from other sources, such as Nigerian billionaire<br />

banker and philanthropist Tony Elumelu. Onigbinde met his<br />

co-founder Joseph Agunbiade at a hackathon CcHub<br />

organised, and participated in a mentorship there that he<br />

says was “instrumental to our growth.”<br />

314<br />

Number of tech hubs and incubation<br />

centres across Africa according to the<br />

GSMA Ecosystem Accelerator<br />

93<br />

African cities hosting<br />

tech hubs<br />

170<br />

Start-ups nurtured by iHub,<br />

the continent’s most popular hub<br />

20<br />

Events each month run by iHub<br />

2001<br />

The year the first sub-Saharan Africa hub<br />

was established in Pretoria<br />

54<br />

Hubs located in South Africa,<br />

the highest concentration in Africa<br />

ENTREPRENEURIAL ENERGY<br />

Africa’s budding tech industry and its young entrepreneurs<br />

continue to flourish despite the challenges of a complex<br />

political environment, coupled with funding shortages and<br />

sustainability concerns. But tech hubs like iHub are proving<br />

that alternative sources of funding can be available, and such<br />

investments can have a long-term impact.<br />

“Sustainability is important for any business, especially<br />

tech hubs,” stresses Shapshak. “CEOs of other hubs should<br />

look at replicating this successful model.”<br />

Zuckerberg was impressed with what he saw during his<br />

Lagos trip. “What is striking is the entrepreneurial energy,”<br />

he said at the time. “I think when you’re trying to build<br />

something, what matters the most is who wants it the most.<br />

This is where the future is going to be built.”<br />

Juliana Rotich at the iHub Technology<br />

Innovation center in Nairobi.<br />

Getty Images


Get Noticed<br />

Connecting Africa to the World<br />

To advertise in Msafiri, contact: Rose Kagori, Mediaedge Interactive Ltd<br />

Tel: +254 0723140187 / 0734271488 Email: <strong>msafiri</strong>@mediaedgeke.com wwww.redhousegroupke.com


Tips / BUSINESS / 53<br />

How to<br />

Manage<br />

Your Work-Life<br />

Balance<br />

Struggling to stay focused?<br />

Finding the right COMFORT<br />

ZONE between the office and<br />

home boosts productivity and<br />

improves wellbeing.<br />

text Joanne Wienen illustrations Edith Carron<br />

1<br />

Take time off (even when busy)<br />

A recent study from Harvard Business<br />

Review showed that managers in countries<br />

with more paid time off get more done. In<br />

other words: spending less time at your<br />

desk means wasting less time there. Even a<br />

quick stroll outside can make a difference,<br />

research by Julie McCarthy from the<br />

University of Toronto Scarborough found.<br />

2<br />

Try shorter workdays<br />

For years, we’ve been told that an<br />

eight-hour workday is optimal, but last<br />

year in Sweden companies experimented<br />

with cutting daily hours down to six.<br />

Some companies have already reported<br />

greater productivity, improved employee<br />

health and reduced absenteeism.<br />

3<br />

Let go of perfection<br />

There is nothing wrong with having<br />

high standards, but sometimes good is<br />

good enough. Getting things done can<br />

be more important than getting things<br />

perfect. So instead of striving for the<br />

impossible, set realistic goals and<br />

celebrate daily achievements.<br />

4<br />

Work smarter<br />

The Pareto principle states that 80<br />

percent of your results are achieved in<br />

20 percent of your time. Figure out what<br />

that 20 percent looks like (and the<br />

actions required to get there) and you’ll<br />

spend more time doing what really<br />

drives you towards your goals.<br />

While we’re<br />

on the subject…<br />

These titles (available to<br />

buy online) offer inspiration.<br />

Rice University professor<br />

Scott Sonenshein reveals<br />

why less is more when it<br />

comes to business and life<br />

in Stretch: Unlock The Power<br />

of Less − and Achieve More<br />

Than You Ever Imagined<br />

(Harper Business, <strong>2017</strong>).<br />

The design thinking that’s<br />

responsible for amazing<br />

products and architecture<br />

can also be applied to your<br />

career and life. Bill Burnett<br />

and Dave Evans tell you how<br />

in their book Designing Your<br />

Life: How to Build a Well-<br />

Lived, Joyful Life<br />

(Knopf, 2016).<br />

Bestselling author Charles<br />

Duhigg shows that it is<br />

more important to manage<br />

how you think than what<br />

you think. Smarter Faster<br />

Better: The Secrets of<br />

Being Productive in Life and<br />

Business (Random House<br />

Trade Paperbacks, <strong>2017</strong>).


Tips / BUSINESS / 55<br />

How to<br />

Stay Fit<br />

on Long<br />

Flights<br />

Hopping from one time zone<br />

to another can take a toll<br />

on mind and body. Here’s<br />

how to STAY AT THE TOP<br />

of your game, up in the sky.<br />

text Joanne Wienen illustrations Edith Carron<br />

1<br />

Adopt the new time zone<br />

If possible, start going to sleep earlier<br />

(or later, depending on the destination) a<br />

few days before departure. This minimises<br />

the effects of jet lag upon arrival. After<br />

take-off start thinking ahead. If it’s daytime<br />

at your destination, resist reclining<br />

and choose to work instead. Should you<br />

be sleeping? Then give the laptop or smartphone<br />

a miss.<br />

2<br />

Allow yourself time to adjust<br />

Tiredness decreases productivity and<br />

increases stress levels. Instead of heading<br />

from the airport straight to a meeting, try<br />

arriving a day early to give yourself a<br />

chance to acclimatise before getting<br />

down to work.<br />

3<br />

Sleep smart<br />

Can’t avoid arriving on the morning<br />

of your meeting? Then remember: a little<br />

sleep is better than none. Power naps can<br />

reduce the negative effects of jet lag. But<br />

don’t overdo it: keep naps to under 25<br />

minutes. After that REM sleep kicks in,<br />

increasing the risk of feeling groggy.<br />

4<br />

A little help<br />

Having trouble nodding off? Try<br />

melatonin, a natural supplement that<br />

helps regulate your sleep cycle. Take it<br />

after dark on the day you travel and for<br />

a few days afterwards to drift off at a<br />

decent hour and get your body onto local<br />

time quickly.<br />

Read all about it<br />

These titles (available<br />

online) offer inspiration.<br />

Drawing on research from the<br />

Wharton School of Business,<br />

Mario Moussa, Madeline<br />

Boyer and Derek Newberry<br />

reveal how to deliver results<br />

under tough work conditions<br />

in Committed Teams: Three<br />

Steps to Inspiring Passion<br />

and Performance (Wiley,<br />

2016).<br />

As CEO of many companies,<br />

South African entrepreneur<br />

Elon Musk practically lives<br />

on airplanes. Get inspired<br />

by Ashlee Vance’s biography<br />

Elon Musk: How the<br />

Billionaire CEO of SpaceX<br />

and Tesla is Shaping our<br />

Future (Virgin Books, 2016).<br />

Find out how to stay sharp<br />

during long-haul flights (and<br />

other practical life lessons)<br />

in Tools of Titans: The<br />

Tactics, Routines, and Habits<br />

of Billionaires, Icons, and<br />

World-Class Performers by<br />

Tim Ferriss (Houghton Mifflin<br />

Harcourt, 2016).


56 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3


TRAVEL / 57<br />

8<br />

Ways<br />

to Indulge<br />

in Dubai<br />

WITH THE WORLD’S tallest building,<br />

biggest shopping mall, underwater suites<br />

and million-dollar yachts, it is clear that<br />

the UAE doesn’t do things by halves.<br />

And neither should you.<br />

text Lucy Thackray photography LaPeet<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1<br />

Arrive on a Friday<br />

Considering a long weekend? It’s worth knowing that Dubai’s<br />

weekend runs from Friday to Saturday. Arrive on a Friday morning<br />

to acclimatise before the workforce’s biggest event: brunch. This is a<br />

millionaire’s interpretation of “breakfast meets lunch”: meals cost<br />

around 450 AED (US $120) a head, and involve countless tiers of<br />

sushi, fruit, barbecued skewers and patisserie cakes stacked artfully<br />

around ice sculptures and chocolate fountains. Eating is soundtracked<br />

by live music and fuelled by regularly topped-up champagne. Join in<br />

the fun at the most glamorous hotels: two of the most opulent brunches<br />

are at Jumeirah Al Qasr’s Arboretum and Le Royal Meridien’s Maya<br />

restaurants (the latter includes pool and beach access afterwards). Clinking<br />

champagne flutes with the city’s most successful executives will get you<br />

firmly on Dubai time, and into the groove of the glittering social scene.


58 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />

2<br />

Take the world’s fastest lift<br />

It’ll whoosh you at a dizzying speed to the top of the Burj Khalifa,<br />

the planet’s tallest building and an impressive piece of architecture<br />

even from ground level. Rising out of glossy Downtown (the business<br />

and shopping district) it pierces the aquamarine, desert-hazy sky like a<br />

mirage, sculpted like a futuristic rocket ship and glinting with smug<br />

satisfaction. From its 125th-floor observation deck, the city’s other highrise<br />

rooftops look Lego small, and a vast teal lake below displays the<br />

cog-shaped jets of the impressive Dubai Fountain. After your heady trip<br />

to the top, grab lunch at laid-back café Social House (on the edge of The<br />

Dubai Mall, near the Burj’s exit), as the Vegas-style water show leaps into<br />

action in front of you, twisting in a choreographed dance to classical,<br />

pop or Arabic music.<br />

3<br />

Flex your credit card<br />

Whether you consider yourself a shopping fan or not, Dubai’s malls<br />

are a sight to be seen. The Mall of the Emirates has an enormous,<br />

snow-loaded ski slope, complete with penguins, but it’s little more than<br />

a gimmick. If you have an eye for style, The Dubai Mall is the only one<br />

that matters. With 500,000 square metres of shops, this polished monochrome<br />

behemoth has everything from high couture (head to Fashion<br />

Avenue for Prada, Gucci and co.) to vivid Arabian creations (spot the<br />

bejewelled ballgowns and crystal-clad wedding dresses). Hire an electric<br />

car to whizz around faster, and don’t worry about getting lost − it’s<br />

inevitable. Just use the electronic maps on the black pillars in the hallways<br />

to find your way out.<br />

4<br />

Bash the dunes<br />

If the city’s flashy designer circuit starts to cloy, one of the best<br />

things about Dubai is that you can be out in proper, rust-red desert<br />

in around 40 minutes. There are two main ways to do it: take a desert<br />

safari day trip to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, or book an<br />

overnight stay in a desert camp hotel. Day trips are all fairly similar, but<br />

established company Platinum Heritage is dedicated to preserving the<br />

desert, and offers a choice of itineraries to suit your group. You may<br />

want to try “dune bashing” (letting the air out of your 4x4’s tyres and<br />

plunging down the sand dunes), though it’s not for everyone. Other highlights<br />

include watching a falcon display as the sun sets, or taking a more<br />

sedate drive around a nature trail, to see the native oryx and other local<br />

creatures. You can even be chauffeured in a vintage 1960s Land Rover for<br />

that true explorer feel. For a real Lawrence of Arabia experience, you<br />

want to wake up to see the shifting russet dunes stretching to the horizon.<br />

Book a room at the Bedouin-styled Bab Al Shams, or a super-luxury<br />

desert lodge at five-star Al Maha.<br />

5<br />

Take off in a chopper<br />

There are a handful of cities in the world where a helicopter ride is<br />

worth the extravagance, and, along with New York and Rio,<br />

Dubai is one of them. You’ll take off from The Palm Jumeirah, the<br />

donut-shaped, man-made extension of the coast, and skim over the<br />

azure, silk-smooth waters of the Gulf, gawping at The World, the artificial<br />

islands shaped like an atlas (some “countries” more<br />

complete than others). Then you’ll zoom back over land, past the sailshaped<br />

Burj Al Arab (the world’s first “seven star” hotel) and towards the<br />

tiara of towers that make up Downtown to see the Burj Khalifa from<br />

above, not to mention the scattered works-in-progress being assembled<br />

by monster cranes. It’s a thrilling look at how this flash city experiment is<br />

still being carved out between expansive desert and water. Nervous about<br />

taking to the skies? A speedboat ride is just as fun, as you roar past the<br />

palatial Atlantis hotel and Burj Al Arab with the sea-spray in your hair.<br />

Previous page: 1. Burj Khalifa 2. Water taxi across Dubai Creek 3. Bridge from Dubai<br />

Mall to Souk Al Bahar 4. Jumeirah Beach 5. Around Jumeirah Beach<br />

Right: 1. Burj Al Arab Hotel 2. Bur Dubai neigbourhood 3. Desert safari 4. Wafi Mall<br />

5. Dubai skyline 6. Helicopter flight<br />

“Dine from a magic<br />

carpet, piled high<br />

with spiced stews,<br />

clove-scented rice,<br />

fresh, floury<br />

flatbreads and<br />

date-syrupy dough<br />

balls”<br />

EAT & DRINK<br />

Arboretum Brunch at Jumeirah<br />

Al Qasr hotel<br />

Al Sufouh Road; jumeirah.com<br />

Mas Mas Maya brunch at Le Royal<br />

Meridien Beach Resort & Spa<br />

Al Sufouh Road; maya-dubai.com<br />

Nikki Beach Dubai<br />

Pearl Jumeirah; nikkibeach.com<br />

RIVA Beach Club<br />

Palm Jumeirah; riva-beach.com<br />

STAY<br />

Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf Hotel<br />

Al Sufouh Road; jumeirah.com<br />

Fairmont The Palm Hotel<br />

Palm Jumeirah; fairmont.com<br />

Ritz-Carlton, Dubai<br />

Jumeirah Beach Residence Walk;<br />

ritzcarlton.com<br />

SHOP<br />

Dubai Mall<br />

Financial Centre Road, Downtown;<br />

thedubaimall.com<br />

RELAX<br />

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa<br />

Adjacent to Al Qudra Road;<br />

meydanhotels.com<br />

Talise Ottoman Spa<br />

Jumeirah Zabeel Saray Hotel;<br />

jumeirah.com<br />

Guerlain Spa at One&Only The Palm<br />

Palm Jumeirah;<br />

thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com<br />

Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa<br />

Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve;<br />

al-maha.com


TRAVEL / 59<br />

1<br />

2 2<br />

3<br />

4 5 6<br />

Shutterstock


60 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />

1<br />

2 3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6


TRAVEL / 61<br />

LOOK & SEE<br />

Burj Khalifa<br />

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard;<br />

burjkhalifa.ae<br />

The Dubai Fountain<br />

Below the Burj Khalifa;<br />

burjkhalifa.ae<br />

the-dubai-fountain.aspx<br />

Helicopter tours<br />

Fly High Dubai; from Atlantis helipad.<br />

Book through getyourguide.com<br />

The Majlis Gallery<br />

Al Musalla Roundabout; themajlisgallery.com<br />

Al Marmoum Camel Racetrack<br />

Al-Ain-Dubai Road;<br />

visitdubai.com<br />

Platinum Heritage tours<br />

Pick-up from your hotel included;<br />

platinum-heritage.com<br />

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre<br />

for Cultural Understanding<br />

Al Musalla Road; cultures.ae<br />

Social House<br />

Lower Ground Floor, The Dubai Mall;<br />

thedubaimall.com<br />

Speedboat tours<br />

The Yellow Boats; Dubai Marina;<br />

theyellowboats.com<br />

Thirst quencher<br />

Alcohol is restricted to licensed hotels and<br />

restaurants in Dubai, but if you enjoy spirits,<br />

you can certainly find them. Popular local<br />

destinations for a cocktail include a number<br />

of sky-high options, such as the lounge at<br />

At.Mosphere, located on the 122nd floor of<br />

Burj Khalifa, 442 metres off the ground (book<br />

ahead), and SkyView Bar in the Burj Al Arab.<br />

As its name suggests, Trader Vic’s Mai-Tai<br />

Lounge has an extensive menu of fun, colourful<br />

cocktails, including some virgin options.<br />

Inside the Raffles Dubai, find the minimalist<br />

Crossroads Cocktail Bar, which serves the<br />

Raffles Singapore Sling, as well as its own<br />

signature local version, the Dubai Sling.<br />

6<br />

Take some time out<br />

You’ve been up and down, out in the wild sands and over the water.<br />

But don’t forget to stay still. One of the chief reasons to visit Dubai<br />

is the guaranteed sunshine, and the locals have created dozens of lush<br />

oases where you can bask in it. Your hotel likely has a vast pool with<br />

plush loungers (the most serene include The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai, Fairmont<br />

The Palm and Dar Al Masyaf) but if not, splash out on a day at a<br />

beach club. RIVA, on the Palm, has sieved-sugar sand and a laid-back<br />

pizza bar, while Nikki Beach in Jumeirah has a St Tropez-meets-Miami<br />

vibe. If the sun’s fiercer than you like it, slip away into one of the city’s<br />

tranquil, oud-scented spas: Jumeirah hotels’ Talise Ottoman Spa is an<br />

award-winning, polished marble haven, while One&Only The Palm has<br />

the technical expertise at its unique Guerlain spa.<br />

7<br />

Discover the city’s roots<br />

Before there were oil, hotels and conference centres in these parts,<br />

there were Emirati tribes. You’re not likely to meet a native Emirati<br />

out and about here (and most of the service workforce has emigrated<br />

from India, Pakistan and the Philippines), but if you’re curious about the<br />

UAE’s identity and history in the Middle East, the best place to learn<br />

more is The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding.<br />

Here, visitors cluster in a traditional Emirati house, in Bastakiya, the<br />

oldest part of town, to sip Arabic coffee and eat dates in a traditional<br />

Arabic dining room, chatting with UAE locals. Nasif and his young,<br />

welcoming team answer your questions, and nothing is off limits. You<br />

can ask about marriage customs, Islamic rituals, clothes, food or how<br />

young Emiratis spend their free time, and you’ll get a witty and wellinformed<br />

answer. Book in for the cultural brunch to add on an hour’s<br />

dining from a magic carpet, piled high with spiced stews, clove-scented<br />

rice, fresh, floury flatbreads and date-syrupy dough balls. It’s one of<br />

Dubai’s best-kept secrets: the finest Middle Eastern feast in town.<br />

8<br />

Do it for free<br />

Despite all the glitz, there is still plenty to do in Dubai without<br />

putting you out of pocket. Don’t miss the Old Town: get a taxi to<br />

the historical quarter of Bastakiya, where you can wander around safely<br />

and see the old-style Emirati houses and their sandstone “wind towers”.<br />

Then turn left at Dubai Creek, following the water down to the Textile<br />

Souk to soak in the colour and atmosphere. If you have US$0,25 handy,<br />

jump aboard one of the sputtering abra water taxis to cross the Creek.<br />

Follow the crowds of shoppers and you’ll find mosques, shops, and the<br />

winding Spice, Gold and Perfume souks.<br />

Those in an active mood can join local expats in a morning jog along<br />

Kite Beach, a public stretch of Jumeirah Beach with a great view of the<br />

Burj Khalifa, plus food and smoothie/juice stalls. Then take in some local<br />

art and painted landscapes at The Majlis Gallery in Bastakiya. Expect<br />

lots of Middle Eastern-inspired works, and a shady courtyard to cool off<br />

in. Or, why not cheer on some hump-backed heroes at a camel race?<br />

Dubai takes this historic sport very seriously (the Sheikh owns several<br />

high-value camels). The best places to stroll and people-watch in the<br />

tourist centre are Dubai Marina (for cutting-edge skyscrapers and<br />

mega-yachts) and JBR Walk (for juice and coffee bars, shops and a<br />

white-sand public beach).<br />

Getting There<br />

Kenya Airways flies direct from Nairobi to Dubai,<br />

twice daily. The flight takes just over five hours.<br />

Visit kenya-airways.com.<br />

1. Mosque entrance 2. Palm Monorail 3. Khan Murjan Restaurant 4. Wafi Mall<br />

5 & 6. In & around Bur Dubai, Al Bastakiya


Quiz / TRAVEL / 63<br />

Guess<br />

and Win<br />

We give you five clues about a<br />

KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />

Which country are we referring to?<br />

Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />

or Twitter using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz,<br />

and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />

1<br />

Almost 1,000 SPECIES OF BUTTERFLIES, such as the<br />

beautiful salamis parhassus (“forest mother-of-pearl”), inhabit<br />

this country. The country also has a butterfly FOREST AND<br />

SANCTUARY that is renowned among scientists.<br />

2<br />

After starring in the American TV series The Wire and Luther,<br />

and Hollywood blockbusters Prometheus and Star Trek Beyond,<br />

actor IDRIS ELBA has become a household name. He was born<br />

in England, but HIS PROUD MOTHER hails from this country.<br />

3<br />

The Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2012 collection boasted<br />

COLOURFUL wax-technique patterns that are so typical for this<br />

country. American singers Beyoncé and Gwen Stefani also can’t<br />

get enough of attire adorned with PRINTS CREATED HERE.<br />

Getty Images, The Africa Image Library, Shutterstock<br />

4<br />

An athlete from this tropical nation represented his country at the<br />

Vancouver WINTER OLYMPICS in 2010, the first time the country<br />

had ever participated. Alpine skier, Kwame Nkrumah-Acheampong,<br />

a.ka. “snow leopard,” competed in the MEN’S SLALOM.<br />

5<br />

The TYPICAL CUISINE of this country includes waakye spicy<br />

cooked rice and beans, usually served with stewed fish or meat,<br />

and kelewele, a popular side dish made from spicy fried plantains.<br />

Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz. Each month, Kenya Airways wil pick a winner<br />

and surprise them with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.


64 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />

Getty Images


WILDLIFE / 65<br />

SAFE FROM<br />

HARM<br />

Across Kenya, specialist centres are providing<br />

SAFE HAVENS FOR WILDLIFE to<br />

overcome the trauma of civil war, poaching<br />

and revenge attacks. The ultimate aim is to get<br />

animals back into the wild, where they belong.<br />

It’s all down to hope and hard work.<br />

text Ivy Wairimu


66 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />

Getty Images<br />

WHAT DO actresses Lupita<br />

Nyong’o, Demi Lovato and Kristin<br />

Davis have in common? Elephant selfies<br />

− or rather“elfies” − they captured at<br />

the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in<br />

Nairobi. At this world-renowned<br />

elephant orphanage, the baby elephants<br />

are the real celebrities. For an hour each<br />

day, the public can visit the nursery to<br />

watch orphaned baby elephants, boisterously<br />

charge towards their keepers, who<br />

wield enormous bottles of milk.<br />

Few things can be more delightful<br />

than witnessing elephants, varying in<br />

size from a St. Bernard dag to a Volkswagen<br />

Beetle, trooping in from nearby<br />

bushes for their midday feed. Visitors<br />

from every corner of the world have the<br />

unique experience of watching the<br />

orphanage’s playful wards wallow in<br />

mud holes and occasionally pass within<br />

petting distance of a rope barrier separating<br />

them from their human audience.<br />

RESCUE AND REFUGE<br />

Wildlife protection is ingrained in<br />

the fabric of Kenya’s nationhood, predating<br />

the country’s independence. As<br />

early as 1899 the British colonial<br />

government took deliberate steps to<br />

conserve wildlife through enforcing<br />

hunting restrictions and creating game<br />

reserves to protect wildlife habitats. In<br />

Kenya’s post-independence years, a<br />

number of wildlife sanctuaries and<br />

orphanages were founded that still offer<br />

rehabilitation, rescue and refuge. In the<br />

face of increasingly sophisticated and<br />

lethal wildlife crime, habitat loss and<br />

growing rates of human/animal conflict,<br />

the work of these organisations is more<br />

critical than ever.<br />

The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust<br />

is among the most prominent of these<br />

initiatives, and encouraging the public to<br />

witness the work that is done there helps<br />

raise awareness of the importance of<br />

protecting all wildlife.<br />

Rob Brandford, the Trust’s executive<br />

director, calls the daily visiting hour “an<br />

incredible tool in helping to shape hearts<br />

and minds,” echoing the sentiments of<br />

Edwin Lusichi, the nursery’s head keeper,<br />

who hopes that, if nothing else, guests<br />

leave with appreciation of the idea that<br />

elephants and all other wildlife deserve<br />

to live unharmed.<br />

Established in 1977 by Dr. Dame<br />

Daphne Sheldrick in honour of her late<br />

husband, Tsavo East National Park<br />

founding warden David Sheldrick, the<br />

Trust has its headquarters in Nairobi<br />

National Park. This is also where the<br />

elephant nursery is located. At time of<br />

writing this nursery is home to 25 baby<br />

elephants orphaned due to a number of<br />

factors: poachers who kill for the ivory<br />

trade; revenge attacks by communities<br />

when elephants venture into their farms or<br />

destroy their crops; or accidental lethal<br />

falls of elephants down water wells.<br />

WATCHING THEM PLAY<br />

Once rescued, the baby elephants are<br />

hand-reared by their keepers and fed a<br />

special milk formula perfected over the<br />

years by Dame Daphne. At the age of<br />

three, most of the elephants are ready<br />

to “graduate” from the nursery to one<br />

of three reintegration units in the wider<br />

Tsavo conservation area. The process


WILDLIFE / 67<br />

“Wildlife protection<br />

is ingrained in the<br />

fabric of Kenya’s<br />

nationhood”<br />

ANP<br />

can take as long as five years before the<br />

elephants are ready to integrate fully<br />

with the wild Tsavo herds and to live<br />

independently of their keepers.<br />

Keeper Peter Mbulu shares his own<br />

immense joy that goes along with seeing<br />

the orphans flourish. “Going out to<br />

rescue the babies, walking them to the<br />

park and watching them play − it’s such<br />

an amazing feeling,” he says. “It really<br />

feels like my mission is accomplished<br />

when they graduate.”<br />

To date, the orphan elephant<br />

rehabilitation project has reintegrated<br />

200 orphaned elephants, as well as<br />

14 orphaned rhinos into the wild. For<br />

milk-dependent elephants to function<br />

by themselves in the wild is no mean<br />

feat. The keepers, through their love for<br />

the animals, are very careful to select<br />

which elephants are ready to succeed on<br />

their own. “It has come with patience,<br />

knowledge and following the elephants’<br />

lead,” says Brandford. “Without Dame<br />

Daphne’s perseverance and strength,<br />

the Trust would not be where it is<br />

today.”<br />

HERDING INSTINCT<br />

However, not all of the efforts<br />

to reintegrate animals into the wild<br />

succeed. Different species pose<br />

different challenges in the process.<br />

Elephants are highly sentient and<br />

have a herding instinct that makes<br />

them more likely to take in young<br />

orphans, but this is not the case for<br />

large carnivores.At the Kenya Wildlife<br />

Service’s Nairobi Animal Orphanage,<br />

reintegrating lions, for example, is<br />

a completely different ballgame.<br />

Dr. David Ndeereh, who oversees the<br />

orphanage’s programmes, says lions are<br />

highly territorial, and are more likely to<br />

develop human dependency, which makes<br />

their rehabilitation more difficult. In<br />

these cases, the animals are retained in<br />

the orphanage or its sister facility, the<br />

Nairobi Safari Walk.<br />

Despite limited space and capacity,<br />

the people who operate the orphanage<br />

are dedicated to helping these animals,<br />

and are determined not to turn away<br />

any that need care. Right now, the<br />

orphanage is home to 21 rescued lions. ><br />

Community wildlife<br />

sanctuaries<br />

•The ISHAQBINI HIROLA<br />

community concervancy, aims to<br />

protect the hirola, Africa’s most<br />

endangered antelope, and was<br />

created through enormous effort on<br />

the part of the local Hara, Korissa<br />

and Kotile communities. In 2012<br />

48 hirolas were placed into a<br />

fenced, predator-free sanctuary of<br />

30 square kilometres, set aside by<br />

the community.<br />

•The NAIVASHA OWL TRUST is<br />

a rescue and rehabilitation<br />

centre for birds of prey and owls,<br />

based in Naivasha, Kenya.<br />

•LOCAL OCEAN TRUST in<br />

Watamu is a private,<br />

not-for-profit organisation<br />

committed to the protection<br />

of Kenyas marine environment,<br />

in particular sea turtles.


68 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />

Young conservationists<br />

Inspired by a visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, the children of Kajiado County<br />

Kennedy School in the Rift Valley began an annual Mashujaa Day Bike Challenge in<br />

2015 to raise money for the trust’s orphaned elephants (Mashujaa) in Swahili means<br />

“heroes”); they raised Ksh 100,000. “We know we cannot do enough to save all the<br />

elephants,” says nine-year-old Caroline Timla. “But we shall do our little thing.”<br />

LEARNING TO BE PATIENT<br />

While the goal of these rescue<br />

groups and the people who run them is<br />

largely to rehabilitate animals and return<br />

them to the wild, others exist to offer<br />

life-long refuge to those who may never<br />

be able to survive on their own. One<br />

such organisation is the Sweetwaters<br />

Chimpanzee Sanctuary in the Ol Pejeta<br />

Conservancy in Laikipia. The sanctuary,<br />

founded in 1993 in partnership with<br />

the Jane Goodall Institute and the<br />

Kenya Wildlife Service, is home to 39<br />

chimpanzees, all of which have suffered<br />

trauma due to civil war, wildlife trafficking<br />

and the illegal bushmeat trade. In addition<br />

to physical injuries, many of the<br />

chimpanzees bear lasting psychological<br />

scars of the horrific conditions from<br />

which they were rescued and will require<br />

ongoing medical attention and care for<br />

the rest of their lives. The staff is very<br />

sensitive to the horrific suffering and<br />

abuse many of the chimpanzees have<br />

experienced, and work hard to gain their<br />

trust and teach them to be climbing,<br />

social chimpanzees again.<br />

But it takes time. Stephen Mukundi,<br />

a caregiver at the sanctuary, explains<br />

that recovery from the trauma is a<br />

gradual and difficult process. “We have<br />

learned to be patient and calm with<br />

them,” he says. “We encourage their<br />

progress through play and other<br />

enrichment activities.”<br />

By integrating rescued chimpanzees<br />

into one of the two resident families −<br />

where they spend their days exploring<br />

and socialising − the sanctuary offers<br />

rescued chimpanzees a new lease on life.<br />

Richard Vigne, chief executive<br />

officer of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, argues<br />

that the very existence of the sanctuary<br />

represents a conservation failure,<br />

although he adds that it plays a key<br />

role in generating awareness. “We<br />

believe the sanctuary can be used as a<br />

platform for education about the plight<br />

facing wild chimpanzee populations in<br />

Africa,” he says.<br />

ANP Barcroft Media<br />

SELF-SUSTAINING POPULATION<br />

In addition to addressing the<br />

impact of wildlife crime and human<br />

wildlife conflict, a number of wildlife<br />

programmes are also dedicated to the<br />

long-term recovery and repopulation<br />

of threatened and endangered species.<br />

Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy’s<br />

Bongo Rehabilitation Project is creating<br />

a self-sustaining wild population of<br />

mountain bongo, a species of forest<br />

antelope believed to number just 100<br />

in the wild.<br />

In 2004, a captive group of eighteen<br />

bongos was repatriated from the US to<br />

the conservancy to join its sixteen<br />

resident bongos. Today the Bongo<br />

Rehabilitation Project is home to 64<br />

bongos, a number that Donald Bunge,<br />

the conservancy’s wildlife manager,<br />

says is indicative of its success, however<br />

gradual. It has not been without its<br />

challenges, however: eleven of the<br />

repatriated bongos died because their<br />

immune systems were unable to stand up<br />

to diseases endemic to their new habitat.<br />

The next phase of the project<br />

involves setting aside a five squarekilometre<br />

section of forested land<br />

outside of the conservancy, where select<br />

bongos can breed. The offspring will<br />

then be released into the wild within<br />

former bongo habitats.<br />

These organisations are united in<br />

their strong commitment to increasing<br />

public awareness of the need to conserve<br />

wildlife. Many of them share Richard<br />

Vigne’s sobering attitude. “If the<br />

sanctuary ceased to exist in 40 years<br />

time,” he says, “then either we will have<br />

done our job as conservationists and<br />

stopped the illegal trade in wildlife<br />

across Africa or there will be no wildlife<br />

left to rescue.”<br />

~ Ivy Wairimu is a conservation marketing<br />

expert. She is passionate about raising<br />

awareness of endangered species.<br />

How to give your support:<br />

sheldrickwildlifetrust.org;<br />

olpejetaconservancy.org;<br />

animalorphanagekenya.org


WILDLIFE / 69<br />

“We believe the sanctuary<br />

can be used as a platform<br />

for education”<br />

Getty Images


ENTERTAINMENT / 71<br />

Kenya Airways<br />

offers its passengers<br />

complimentary inflight<br />

entertainment.<br />

The programme will<br />

vary in different aircraft<br />

types. Check your<br />

screen to view the<br />

selection on your flight.<br />

Relax & Enjoy<br />

Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />

African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />

games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them<br />

(read more on the next page)<br />

“It’s a message of tolerance,<br />

understanding, a desire to sort of take fear out<br />

of relationships and to celebrate<br />

Otherness and not to be afraid of the Other”<br />

– David Yates, Director of Fantastic Beasts<br />

and Where to Find Them, on the movie’s message –<br />

MOVIE RATINGS<br />

G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />

R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.


72 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

New Releases<br />

Fantastic<br />

Beasts<br />

And Where to Find Them<br />

This critically-celebrated and<br />

much anticipated prequel to the<br />

Harry Potter series has all the<br />

magic, wizardry and villainy as<br />

the Potter films, but sets itself<br />

far apart in terms of storyline,<br />

characters, period and setting.<br />

Set in 1926 New York City, the movie<br />

tells the story of Newt Scamander,<br />

an English ‘magizoologist’ who is the<br />

author of a textbook from which the<br />

film borrows its name. He arrives in the<br />

Big Apple to study its magical creatures,<br />

but things quickly go awry when his<br />

own beasts escape from his suitcase.<br />

The movie is a fast-paced telling of<br />

Newt’s 48-hour adventure, during which<br />

he must track down his runaway beasts<br />

and keep them from wreaking havoc on<br />

the streets of New York, all the while<br />

caught between the sinister actions of a<br />

dark wizard called Gellert Grindelwald<br />

and a growing group of extremists<br />

who oppose wizardry and magic.<br />

The film is the screenwriting debut of<br />

JK Rowling, author of the Harry Potter<br />

series. David Heyman, who produced<br />

the Harry Potter movies, returns as<br />

producer for Fantastic Beasts, and<br />

director David Yates also directed four<br />

of the Potter films.<br />

Fantastic Beasts (2016) FAMILY, ADVENTURE<br />

Adventure ensues when English ‘magizoologist’ arrives in New York and his<br />

fantastic beasts escape from his suitcase. A prequel to the Harry Potter series.<br />

Eddie Redmayne, Ezra Miller. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: David Yates<br />

Rules Don’t Apply (2016) ROMANCE, COMEDY<br />

A love story about an aspiring actress, a determined driver and a wildly<br />

eccentric billionaire for whom they both work.<br />

Haley Bennett, Taissa Farmiga. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: Warren Beatty<br />

Did you know<br />

~ Each of the actors in Fantastic Beasts designed their own<br />

wands and took classes to learn how to use them.<br />

~ JK Rowling first published an edition of the Fantastic Beasts<br />

and Where to Find Them textbook in 2001.<br />

Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children (2016) DRAMA<br />

A boy discovers clues to a mystery that spans alternate realities and uncovers<br />

an abandoned children’s home where residents have special powers.<br />

Eva Green, AsaButterfield. PG-12, 127 mins, Director: Tim Burton


ENTERTAINMENT / 73<br />

Classics<br />

In Time (2011) ACTION, SCI-FI<br />

In a future where time is – literally – money, Will Salas gets a big break<br />

when a windfall of time gives him access to the world of the wealthy.<br />

Justin Timberlake. PG-12, 109 mins. Director: Andrew Niccol<br />

Cleopatra (1963) DRAMA<br />

A romantic drama of epic proportions, this classic tells the story of an<br />

ambitious Egyptian queen who will sacrafice all to save her country.<br />

Elizabeth Taylor. PG-14, 192 mins, Director: Joseph L. Mankiewicz<br />

Cheaper by the Dozen (2003) COMEDY, FAMILY<br />

A couple with 12 children pursue more demanding careers and find big<br />

families and big careers are hard to balance. Remake of the ’50s classic.<br />

Steve Martin, Bonnie Hunt. PG, 98 mins, Director: Shawn Levy<br />

The Seven Year Itch (1955) COMEDY, ROMANCE<br />

A husband who has always been faithful to his wife suddenly finds himself<br />

tempted by his neighbour when his family goes away for the summer.<br />

Marilyn Monroe, Tom Ewell. PG, 105 mins, Director: Billy Wilder<br />

The Martian (2015) DRAMA, SCI-FI<br />

An astronaut is stranded on Mars because his team thinks he’s dead, and<br />

he must rely on his ingenuity to signal to Earth that he is alive.<br />

Matt Damon, Jessica Chastain. PG-12, 144 mins, Director: Ridley Scott<br />

The Secret Life of Bees (2008) DRAMA<br />

In 1964 South Carolina, a 14-year-old girl and her nanny flee the girl’s<br />

abusive father and take refuge with three sisters on a honey farm.<br />

Dakota Fanning. PG-12, 114 mins, Director: Gina Prince-Bythewood


74 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

African Highlights<br />

Safe Bet<br />

Mum Dad meet Sam<br />

Queen of Katwe<br />

Film<br />

Picks from<br />

the continent<br />

We have selected the best of current African cinema,<br />

including drama and comedy.<br />

Safe Bet (2015) ACTION, COMEDY<br />

Frank is tempted to risk all of his boss’ money on a fixed boxing match<br />

when his old friend Khaya comes up with the scheme.<br />

Wandile Molebatsi, Godfrey Thobejane, Luthuli Dlamini. PG-13, 90 mins,<br />

Director: Bonginhlanhla Ncube<br />

Mum, Dad Meet Sam (2014) COMEDY<br />

Josiah takes his love, Samantha, home to meet his family, where a supposed<br />

special occasion becomes a nightmare.<br />

Tomasz Dabrowski, Amanda Smith, Emily Lucienne. PG-13, 94 mins,<br />

Director: Tony Sebastian Ukpo<br />

Moth to a Flame (2016) DRAMA<br />

A woman must drive a taxi to pay her father’s medical bills, until a chance<br />

encounter changes her situation for the better.<br />

Fami Jacobs, Shaffy Bello, Kiki Omeili. PG-13, 107 mins,<br />

Director: Onesoul<br />

Safe Bet<br />

The Wedding (2016) DRAMA<br />

A Yoruba doctor proposes to his Igbo girlfriend and feels the wrath of<br />

tribalistic prejudice from their respective mothers.<br />

Jide Kosoko, Desmond Elliot, Blossom Chijekwu. PG-13, 107 mins,<br />

Director: Desmond Elliot<br />

Ruse (2016) DRAMA<br />

A man with amnesia grows close to his doctor, but when he moves into<br />

her home their relationship changes.<br />

Keira Heiwatch, Michael Ucheagbu, Peace Egwu. PG-13, 90 mins,<br />

Director: Emmanual Aka<br />

Tell Me Sweet Something (2016) COMEDY<br />

Moratiwa, a bookstore owner and aspiring writer, meets Nat, a model, who<br />

has never read a book in his life but wants to be loved for his mind and<br />

not his body.<br />

Thomas Gumede, Maps Maponyane, Nomzamo Mbatha. PG-13, 90<br />

mins, Director: Akin Omotoso<br />

Kati Kati (2016) DRAMA<br />

Kaleche, a young amnesiac, wakes up in the wilderness and meets a crew<br />

under the leadership of Thoma.<br />

Nyokabi Gethaiga, Elsaphan Njora. PG-13, 75 mins, Director: Mbithi<br />

Masya<br />

Luke of Lies (2015) DRAMA<br />

A close-knit trio of con artists’ trusting relationships suffers when a<br />

street-smart woman is added to the group.<br />

Alex Ekuo, Belinda Effah, Daniella Okeke. PG-13, 78 mins, Director:<br />

Emmanuel Man


ENTERTAINMENT / 75<br />

African Highlights<br />

Biography<br />

Queen of Katwe<br />

A compassionate biopic that tells the story of Phiona Mutesi, a<br />

young girl from Uganda who, despite all odds, became her country’s<br />

first female titled chess champion.<br />

You’d be forgiven for thinking this film’s tie to Walt Disney Studios means director<br />

Mira Nair has softened her tone, but that is emphatically not so. Its subject, Phiona<br />

Mutesi, grew up in one of Uganda’s largest slums, but her life was transformed<br />

through the game of chess. Nair elegantly tells the story of Mutesi’s chess success,<br />

without glossing over the very real difficulties facing her family. The result is a<br />

rare thing: A film with a conscience and a Hollywood heart.<br />

Madina Nalwanga, David Oyelowo, Lupita Nyong’o. PG, 124 mins, Director: Mira Nair<br />

“Disney never<br />

pressured me to<br />

sugarcoat or<br />

sanitise. I think<br />

of it as my film.<br />

It feels radical”<br />

– Mira Nair –<br />

Director of Queen of Katwe<br />

2016 Disney Enterprises, Inc.


76 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

TV<br />

Thailand X (Bangkok)<br />

Frequency<br />

Pretty Little Liars Cape Epic Grinder<br />

Small Screen<br />

Programmes<br />

& Series<br />

We selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />

and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />

Comedy<br />

The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 1, 2 and 3 A man returns to his hometown<br />

after a stint in Hollywood and attempts to run his family’s law firm.<br />

Just for Laughs, Season 12, Episode 2 and Season 13, Episode 8<br />

People find themselves in strange situations while captured on camera.<br />

The Big Bang Theory, Season 7, Episodes 19 and 20 A neighbour of<br />

two physicists teaches them about life outside the lab.<br />

Modern Family, Season 6, Episodes 8 and 9 Three different but related<br />

families face trials and tribulations in their uniquely comedic ways.<br />

Sports<br />

Cape Epic 2016 A look at the 13th edition of the Absa Cape Epic in which<br />

mountain bikers tackle an 8-day adventure through the Western Cape.<br />

2016 NBA Champions: Cleveland Cavaliers Season 1, Episode 1. Re-live<br />

the Cavaliers’ championship run from training to their historic comeback.<br />

A Giant Awakens, Episode 1 Through the lens of filmmaker Sylvain Doreau,<br />

the spirit and challenges of American rugby are captured at all levels.<br />

Discovery<br />

Hong Kong III Vibrant and densely populated, Hong Kong in southeastern<br />

China is a major port and global financial centre famed for its skyline.<br />

South Africa Discover South Africa, the 25th-largest country in the world<br />

by land area. As home to close to 53 million people, it is the world's 24thmost<br />

populous nation.<br />

Kenya (Maasai Mara National Reserve) The Maasai Mara National Reserve<br />

is a large game reserve in Narok County, Kenya.<br />

Londong (Lights of London) This city tour takes you through the bustling<br />

streets of London, Britain at night and past many of the city’s most<br />

important and iconic landmarks.<br />

News<br />

CNN Marketplace Africa A look at how public and private interests fuel<br />

demand for art out of African countries.<br />

Brilliant Ideas, Season 1, Episode 28 Michael Craig-Martin is celebrated<br />

around the world for his distinctive works.<br />

Follow the Leader, Season 1, Episode 1 Business journalist Farnoosh<br />

Torabi discovers the secrets to billionaire John Paul DeJoria’s success.<br />

Drama<br />

The Killing, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 3 An investigation, a grieving family<br />

and a mayoral campaign interlock after a girl’s body is found.<br />

Frequency, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A police detective is able to<br />

communicate with her dead father via a ham radio.<br />

Pretty Little Liars Four friends band together to solve the mystery of their<br />

best friend’s murder.<br />

The Originals, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A family of power-hungry<br />

vampires look to take back the city they built.<br />

Gotham, Season 2, Episodes 1 and 2. The story behind Detective James<br />

Gordon’s rise to prominence in Gotham City before Batman’s arrival.


ENTERTAINMENT / 77<br />

Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for<br />

your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />

of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />

so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />

Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />

Audio<br />

Spotlight on<br />

Leonard<br />

Cohen<br />

In this month’s spotlight section,<br />

we offer a collection of beautiful<br />

songs from Leonard Cohen.<br />

Canadian singer, songwriter, musician,<br />

poet, novelist and painter Leonard Cohen<br />

(1934 – 2016) was a beloved artist whose<br />

body of work included 26 albums, the latest<br />

of which – You Want It Darker – was<br />

released just one month before his death.<br />

Best known for songs such as “Hallelujah,”<br />

“Suzanne” and “Everybody Knows,” he was<br />

a highly influential musician.<br />

KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />

Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />

biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />

African Classics<br />

The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />

from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />

Jazz<br />

Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />

the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />

Pop<br />

Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most loved<br />

pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />

Dance Hall/Reggae<br />

We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />

diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />

Alamy<br />

Classical<br />

Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />

awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />

Chinese Pop<br />

The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />

of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />

Easy Listening<br />

Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />

sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />

Meditation<br />

Sit back, relax and destress to the ultimate<br />

meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />

Quote<br />

“Ring the bells that still can ring.<br />

Forget your perfect offering.<br />

There’s a crack in everything,<br />

that’s how the light gets in”<br />

– Lyrics from “Anthem,” off Cohen’s 1992 album “The Future” –


78 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Kids<br />

Comedy<br />

Ice Age:<br />

The Meltdown<br />

Manny the woolly mammoth, Sid<br />

the sloth, Diego the saber-toothed<br />

tiger and Scrat, the prehistoric<br />

squirrel/rat return for another<br />

adventure, seeking higher ground.<br />

Manny, Sid and Diego are living in a large<br />

valley surrounded on all sides by an enormously<br />

high ice wall. Fear strikes when<br />

they learn the wall is holding back a large<br />

body of water that threatens to flood their<br />

home. When a vulture tells them of a boat<br />

across the valley that could save them, the<br />

friends set off to find it – but they only<br />

have three days to do it. This highly<br />

enjoyable film is full of witty dialogue and<br />

a central theme of friendship despite<br />

differences, and loyalty despite danger.<br />

Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo.<br />

PG, 91 mins, Director: Carlos Saldanha<br />

Film and TV<br />

The Ones to Watch<br />

These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />

If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />

from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />

Young Justice<br />

Follows the lives of teenage<br />

superheroes and their sidekicks<br />

as they strive to prove themselves<br />

as members of the so-called<br />

Justice League.<br />

Season 2, Episode 2<br />

Scooby Doo<br />

In this classic and iconic cartoon,<br />

a group ofteenage friends and their<br />

lovable Great Dane, Scooby Doo,<br />

travel in abright green van solving<br />

strange and hilarious mysteries.<br />

Season 1, Episode 14<br />

Teen Titans<br />

A team of five teenage<br />

superheroes save the world from<br />

villains while dealing with the same<br />

issues other teens do. Based on<br />

the DC Comics series.<br />

Season 1, Episode 1<br />

Storks<br />

The storks have stopped their<br />

infant-delivery business, but are<br />

forced to make an exception.<br />

Andy Samberg, Katie Crown. 87<br />

mins, Directors: Nicholas Stoller,<br />

Doug Sweetland


TRANSLATED / 81<br />

Français & 中 文<br />

Français<br />

82<br />

Le Cap, une ville surprenante<br />

84<br />

Le meilleur de Dubaï<br />

中 文<br />

86<br />

神 奇 的 开 普 敦<br />

87<br />

迪 拜 之 最


82 / TRANSLATED<br />

Français<br />

Voyage<br />

Le Cap,<br />

une ville<br />

surprenante<br />

Le Cap est une ville prospère avec<br />

son entrepreneuriat créatif.<br />

DEUX QUARTIERS sont en train<br />

de prendre la tête des saveurs et des<br />

designs locaux.<br />

ENCORE RÉCEMMENT, UN<br />

APRÈS-MIDI au Gin Bar, l’abreuvoir<br />

tendance des hipsters du Cap, un jeune<br />

entrepreneur du nom de JP du Toit faisait<br />

part de son projet de créer sa propre<br />

marque de tonic artisanal. Les micro-distilleries<br />

locales, disait-il, ont toujours produit<br />

de merveilleux gins artisanaux qui mériteraient<br />

tellement mieux que d’être melangés<br />

à des tonics de supermarchés.<br />

Voilà le type de suggestion intelligente<br />

que l’on entend souvent aujourd’hui au<br />

Cap. La grande ville a toujours été un terreau<br />

pour l’esprit d’entreprise, notamment<br />

dans les quartiers qui furent jadis délabrés,<br />

qui combinaient grands espaces et loyers<br />

plancher. Dans la partie est du centre-ville,<br />

les friches industrielles de Woodstock ont<br />

été réhabilitées et transformées en phalanstères<br />

pour designers, restaurateurs, artistes<br />

et cafetiers. Le même phénomène s’observe<br />

autour des maisons victoriennes du quartier<br />

d’affaires central – connu sous le nom de<br />

CBD – où, sous la poussière des chantiers de<br />

construction et de rénovation, un nouveau<br />

cœur prospère de restaurants et de vie nocturne<br />

émerge.<br />

Le Gin Bar se « cache » dans une cour<br />

située derrière le magasin Honest Chocolate,<br />

une petite boutique artisanale de chocolat.<br />

À l’intérieur, les hommes arborent des<br />

barbes soignées avec autant d’aisance que<br />

les femmes y portent des cardigans de<br />

grand-mère. Le menu se limite à quatre<br />

cocktails savamment conçus, nommés<br />

Heart, Head, Soul et Ambition, les quatre<br />

éléments du succès actuel de la ville du Cap.<br />

On dénombre 2 bars à gin dans le quartier<br />

des affaires du Cap. Le second, Mother’s<br />

Ruin, propose 150 sortes de gins, dont 15<br />

d’Afrique du Sud. Dans la plupart des cas,<br />

cela signifie qu’ils sont infusés avec du fynbos,<br />

des herbes aromatiques spécifiques à la<br />

pointe sud-ouest de l’Afrique, aux alentours<br />

de Table Mountain. Ces infusions sont si<br />

bien adaptées qu’elles pourraient expliquer<br />

pourquoi l’alcool de genièvre a trouvé sa<br />

place au Cap.<br />

DES RESTAURANTS À LA PELLE<br />

Les plus rapides et plus récents développements<br />

qu’a connu le quartier central des<br />

affaires ont eu lieu autour de Bree Street, sur<br />

une surface couvrant les 17 pâtés de maisons<br />

qui, au cours des dernières années, sont<br />

sortis du sol pour devenir un nouveau coin<br />

branché de la ville pour les bars et les restaurants.<br />

Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room (au<br />

n° 133 Bree) s’enorgueillit de ses huîtres<br />

fraîches de la côte ouest de l’Afrique du<br />

Sud et d’un menu roboratif de style américain,<br />

tandis qu’en face, le Charango Grill<br />

and Bar (n° 114 Bree) déplace les foules<br />

avec ses ceviches péruviens et ses tacos au<br />

poisson.<br />

À l’angle d’Heritage Square, Love Thy<br />

Neighbour (n°110) associe bières brassées<br />

maison et mezzés méditerranéens, grillades<br />

et souvlakis. Quelques portes plus loin, Chefs<br />

Warehouse & Canteen (n° 92) propose son<br />

menu très apprécié, Tapas for 2, lequel<br />

change quotidiennement, et qui met à la<br />

carte des succès tels que le chevreuil tendre<br />

aux carottes arc-en-ciel ou le canard à<br />

l’asiatique relevé au piment. Plus loin, au<br />

sud ouest, deux restaurants contigus,<br />

Culture Club Cheese (n° 215) et Bacon on<br />

Bree (n° 217), se consacrent aux plaisirs<br />

défendus des nourritures boucheuses d’artères.<br />

Toasts Caprese, croque-monsieurs et<br />

omelettes aux trois fromages d’un côté;<br />

Sandwichs BLT (Bacon-Laitue-Tomate),<br />

croissants au bacon et salades César au<br />

bacon de l’autre.<br />

COLLECTIF COOL<br />

À seulement 10 minutes en taxi de Bree<br />

Street, le quartier industriel de Woodstock<br />

était connu pour être plutôt à la dérive et<br />

New Museum of<br />

Contemporary Art<br />

<strong>2017</strong> est en passe de devenir une année des<br />

plus excitantes pour Le Cap puisque l’ouverture<br />

du Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art<br />

Africa est prévue pour septembre. Baptisé<br />

du nom du collectionneur d’art et homme<br />

d’affaires allemand Jochen Zeitz (qui fera<br />

donation de sa collection privée originale),<br />

il a pour ambition de devenir le plus grand<br />

musée dédié à l’art africain contemporain.<br />

D’une surface de plus de 9500m2 repartis<br />

sur 9 étages, le musée est installé dans<br />

d’anciens silos à grain sur le front de mer<br />

V&A. Le système de monte-charge du grain<br />

sur le toit de l’ensemble sera transformé en<br />

hôtel de luxe dont le nom sera tout simplement<br />

: The Silo.<br />

zeitzmocaa.museum<br />

malfamé. Pourtant, en 20 ans, depuis<br />

l’émergence de la nation arc-en-ciel sous<br />

Nelson Mandela, de nombreuses boutiques<br />

branchées, des restaurants, des magasins de<br />

design et des lofts, sont apparus et en ont<br />

fait l’endroit le plus branché à visiter en<br />

dehors du CBD.<br />

Le premier grand pôle d’attraction du<br />

quartier fut un collectif d’entreprises créatives,<br />

de cafés et de galeries d’art situés sur<br />

le site d’une ancienne biscuiterie, appelée<br />

aujourd’hui simplement le Old Biscuit Mill.<br />

De nos jours, il s’est transformé en un projet<br />

majeur pour les locaux et les visiteurs.<br />

Le spécialiste du café, Micro-roastery Espresso<br />

Lab vous prépare des cafés importés<br />

des hautes terres du Kenya et de l’Éthiopie,<br />

tandis que le studio céramiques Imiso, dont<br />

les motifs s’inspirent de Picasso tout autant<br />

que des scarifications africaines en font un<br />

« Bien des restaurants<br />

branchés, des magasins de<br />

design et des lofts ont fait<br />

de Woodstock un endroit<br />

à la mode. »


TRANSLATED / 83<br />

Photo: Mirjam Bleeker, Dana van Leeuwen<br />

arrêt incontournable pour les chasseurs de<br />

souvenirs.<br />

Au fond d’une cour très animée, le Test<br />

Kitchen du chef Luke Dale-Robert, tant de<br />

fois nominé et décoré, s’est vu honorer du<br />

prix du meilleur restaurant de l’année par<br />

EatOut, le guide des meilleures tables<br />

d’Afrique, sans discontinuer depuis 2012.<br />

Fidèle au nom de son établissement,<br />

Dale-Roberts laisse libre cours à sa créativité<br />

tous azimuts, combinant les traditions<br />

culinaires spécifiques de l’Afrique du Sud<br />

avec celles de l’Asie — pensez au biltong de<br />

bœuf Wagyu à la réglisse (fines tranches de<br />

bœuf séché et épicé comparable au beef<br />

jerky) et son tartare de truite fumée pendant<br />

12 heures.<br />

Alors qu’il est impératif de réserver des<br />

semaines à l’avance une table au The Test<br />

Kitchen, la nourriture locale au marché<br />

artisanal alimentaire hebdomadaire qui se<br />

tient dans les environs de the Mill est un<br />

véritable réconfort. Chaque samedi, on y<br />

trouve un pléthorique assortiment de délicatesses<br />

allant du shoarma syrien aux empanadas<br />

argentines en passant par les petits<br />

poffertjes hollandais et la paella valencienne.<br />

C’est également l’endroit rêvé pour qui<br />

souhaite s’approvisionner en produits biologiques<br />

du terroir, vins et bières artisanales.<br />

TALENTS PROMETTEURS<br />

À Woodstock bien des entrepôts, fonderies<br />

et usines désaffectés ont suivi<br />

l’exemple du Old Biscuit Mil. La plupart<br />

d’entre eux se situent le long de l’Albert<br />

Road, principale artère commerçante du<br />

quartier. À quelques minutes de marche du<br />

Biscuit Mill, par exemple, un vaste entrepôt<br />

a été transformé en coopérative pour les<br />

jeunes artisans et les créateurs de mode.<br />

Go West<br />

À la sortie est du Cap, vignobles et restaurants<br />

de Franschhoek et de Stellenbosch<br />

présentent le meilleur de la gastronomie<br />

sud-africaine. Ces dernières années, des<br />

adresses culinaires plus confidentielles<br />

se sont ouvertes à Paternoster, petit<br />

village de pêcheurs de la côte est.<br />

Là, des chefs célèbres comme Rueben<br />

Riff et Jaco Kruger ont ouvert ou repris<br />

des établissements (respectivement<br />

Abalone House pour le premier et Die<br />

Gaaitjie, pour le second). Le plus novateur<br />

de la bande reste, de toutes les manières,<br />

le chef Kobus van der Merwe. À Wolfgat,<br />

sa « cuisine de plage » unanimement<br />

célébrée est hyper locale puisqu’elle<br />

intègre herbes et plantes du littoral,<br />

et s’inspire des traditions culinaires de<br />

l’Afrique du Sud.<br />

Sampson Street 10, Paternoster,<br />

wolfgat.co.za<br />

« La gastronomie locale<br />

est un réconfort au<br />

marché artisanal<br />

alimentaire hebdomadaire<br />

qui se tient dans les<br />

environs de the Mill. »<br />

Connu sous le nom de Threads Project<br />

(projet fringues), c’est le produit de l’imagination<br />

de Greg Swanepoel, un grossiste en<br />

prêt-à-porter qui a décidé de faire profiter<br />

de son expérience de trente ans dans la<br />

branche aux futurs talents.<br />

En partageant l’espace et en s’associant,<br />

au niveau logistique de la gestion des<br />

petites structures, le projet permet aux<br />

jeunes entrepreneurs de consacrer plus de<br />

temps et d’énergie à leur créativité qu’aux<br />

soucis quotidiens de la comptabilité ou de<br />

la gestion du commerce en ligne. Chacun<br />

loue son propre espace dans le bâtiment ce<br />

qui contribue à l’éclectisme de la gamme<br />

des produits proposés : on citera pêle-mêle,<br />

bikinis flashy, maroquinerie éco à base de<br />

liège, chaussettes en bambou et illustrations<br />

dessinées à la main. Le tout fabriqué majoritairement<br />

au Cap.<br />

Plus près du centre-ville, les devantures<br />

des magasins bordant l’Albert Road se font,<br />

de plus en plus, soignées. Les halls d’exposition<br />

des magasins de meubles ne se limitent<br />

plus au mobilier local mais proposent aussi<br />

de l’ameublement design néerlandais ou<br />

danois.<br />

On a du mal a le croire quand<br />

Swanepoel se lamente sur la flambée<br />

des prix de l’immobilier à Woodstock.<br />

« Maintenant que cette partie de la ville a<br />

atteint une certaine maturité et une certaine<br />

saturation, nous observons un repli vers le<br />

centre-ville, » explique-t-il en faisant allusion<br />

à Bree Street et au reste de CBD.<br />

Il semble que les deux quartiers les plus<br />

branchés du Cap ont réussi à équilibrer<br />

leur taux de hipsters.<br />

✈ Réservez votre vol :<br />

kenya-airways.com<br />

Où séjourner<br />

CAPE HERITAGE HOTEL<br />

Si vous souhaitez séjourner dans le centreville,<br />

au cœur de l’agitation de Bree Street<br />

dans le quartier branché du Cap, Heritage<br />

Square, ce boutique-hôtel du XVIIIe siècle<br />

entièrement restauré, offre chambres et<br />

suites, chacune avec son caractère particulier.<br />

Les espaces restaurant et lounge ne<br />

sont pas en reste, ni d’ailleurs le jacuzzi du<br />

toit-terrasse ou la cour centrale « ombragée<br />

par les treilles de la plus vieille vigne<br />

d’Afrique du Sud ». Le prix des chambres<br />

s’échelonne de 2 100 rands (150 EUR)<br />

pour une chambre double standard à<br />

environ 10 500 rands (750 EUR) pour un<br />

appartement de luxe de deux pièces.<br />

90 Bree Street<br />

+27 21 424 4646<br />

Capeheritage.co.za<br />

THE GRAND DADDY HOTEL<br />

Si vous avez toujours rêvé de passer<br />

une nuit dans un Airstream Trailer (ces<br />

caravanes aux lignes épurées des années<br />

50), le 4 étoiles The Granddaddy Hotel en a<br />

installé 7 entièrement revisitées avec lits et<br />

kitchenettes sur le toit de l’immeuble. Ceci<br />

dit, l’hôtel propose aussi des chambres<br />

« en dur », toutes avec TV écran plat et air<br />

conditionné. Une atmosphère particulière,<br />

tendance et festive émane de cet hôtel du<br />

centre CBD avec son cinéma-terrasse de<br />

plein air : le Pink Flamingo et ses deux bars<br />

à cocktail. Le chambres standard tournent<br />

autour des 2 895 rands (207 EUR) la<br />

nuit et les chambres caravane AirStream<br />

trailers autour de 4 295 rands (307 EUR)<br />

par chambre et par nuit.<br />

38 Long Street<br />

+27 212 424 7247<br />

Granddaddy.co.za<br />

CAPE TOWN LODGE HOTEL<br />

Option moins onéreuse (des tarifs à partir<br />

de 1 070 rands, soit 77 EUR par nuit) et<br />

à quelques pas de Bree Street, le Cape<br />

Town Lodge Hotel and Conference Center,<br />

vous accueille avec ses 123 chambres<br />

ou ses appartements-studios (ou lofts)<br />

dans un immeuble urbain avec vue sur<br />

Table Mountain (La Montagne de la Table),<br />

Lions Head et Signal Hill. C’est l’adresse<br />

idéale pour les voyages d’affaires et<br />

pour les congrès, puisqu’il offre tarifs<br />

entreprises et accès internet. L’hôtel se<br />

glorifie également de ses équipements de<br />

relaxation : un toit-terrasse avec piscine,<br />

une salle de sport couverte, un restaurant<br />

buffet branché, des décors colorés, tant à<br />

la réception que dans le lobby. La note de<br />

TripAdvisor est de 4 sur 5.<br />

101 Buitengracht Street<br />

+27 214 22 0030<br />

capetownlodge.co.za


84 / TRANSLATED<br />

Français<br />

Voyage<br />

8<br />

Manières<br />

de découvrir<br />

Dubaï<br />

Quand on voit leurs constructions<br />

les PLUS HAUTES, LEURS<br />

centres commerciaux les plus<br />

grands, leurs suites sous-marines<br />

et leurs yachts à des millions de<br />

dollars, il est clair qu’aux EAU,<br />

on ne fait pas les choses à moitié.<br />

C’est ce que nous vous souhaitons<br />

de ne pas faire non plus.<br />

1Arriver un vendredi<br />

Envie d’un long week-end ? Il faut<br />

savoir qu’à Dubaï les week-ends<br />

se situent entre le vendredi et le samedi.<br />

Arriver un vendredi matin permet de<br />

s’habituer avant ce tour de force que<br />

constitue cet événement de poids :<br />

le brunch. Il existe une interprétation pour<br />

millionnaires de cette notion de « breakfast<br />

meets lunch » : un repas coûte environ<br />

450 AED par personne et se compose,<br />

pour un tiers d’innombrables sushis, de<br />

fruits, de brochettes au barbecue et de<br />

gâteaux de pâtissier artistiquement étagés le<br />

long de structures de glace et de fontaines<br />

de chocolat. Les agapes s’accompagnent de<br />

musique live et sont arrosées régulièrement<br />

de champagne. Joignez-vous à la fête dans<br />

l’un des hôtels les plus glamours. Les plus<br />

opulents des brunchs sont servis au Al<br />

Qasr’s Arboretum et dans les restaurants<br />

du Royal Meridien’s Maya (ce dernier<br />

comprenant même piscine et accès à la<br />

plage après le repas). Flûte à champagne en<br />

main, trinquer avec les hommes d’affaires<br />

les plus talentueux de la ville vous mettra,<br />

et dans le bain et sur les rails de la scène<br />

sociale la plus brillante.<br />

2<br />

Prenez<br />

l’ascenseur le plus<br />

rapide du monde<br />

Il vous propulsera à une vitesse<br />

vertigineuse vers le sommet de la Burj<br />

Khalifa, plus haute tour de la planète et<br />

impressionnante réalisation architecturale<br />

même vue d’en-bas. Émergeant de<br />

l’impeccable centre-ville (quartier des<br />

affaires et commerçant), elle perce le ciel<br />

d’un bleu limpide, comme un mirage au<br />

cœur de la brume du désert et, fuselée et<br />

futuriste, étincelle orgueilleusement. Depuis<br />

le point de vue du deck situé au 125e étage,<br />

les autres gratte-ciel de la ville apparaissent<br />

comme autant de petites tours en briques<br />

de Lego, tandis qu’en bas, un immense<br />

lac azur est l’écrin des jets d’eau en<br />

forme d’engrenages de l’impressionnante<br />

Fontaine de Dubaï. Quand vous serez<br />

redescendu, déjeunez au café Social House<br />

établissement relax (sur le bord du Dubai<br />

Mall, près de la sortie de la Burj), pendant<br />

que le spectacle aquatique comme à<br />

Las Vegas se démène devant vous sur<br />

des rythmes classique, pop ou arabe.<br />

3<br />

Préparez<br />

la Carte Bleue<br />

Que vous vous soyez fan de shopping<br />

ou non, les centres commerciaux de<br />

Dubaï sont des incontournables. Le centre<br />

commercial Mall of the Emirates abrite<br />

une énorme piste de ski à canons à neige,<br />

complète, avec même des penguins. Mieux<br />

qu’un gadget ! Si vous avez l’œil pour le<br />

style, au Dubai Mall, vous êtes à la bonne<br />

adresse. Avec ses 500 000 m2 de commerces,<br />

ce colosse monochrome et lisse a tout ce<br />

qu’il faut depuis la haute couture (Fashion<br />

Avenue pour Prada, Gucci, etc.) jusqu’aux<br />

créations arabes (robes de bal enjolivées<br />

de pierreries et robes de mariée brodées<br />

de cristal). Louez un véhicule électrique<br />

pour vous faufiler plus vite et ne vous<br />

inquiétez pas si vous vous perdez puisque<br />

c’est inévitable. Recourez alors aux plans<br />

électroniques situés sur les piliers noirs dans<br />

les allées pour retrouver la sortie.<br />

4Marquez les dunes<br />

Si vous commencez à en avoir assez<br />

du design clinquant de la ville, une<br />

des meilleures choses à envisager à Dubaï<br />

est une évasion dans le désert couleur de<br />

rouille-rouge qui vous attend à 40 minutes<br />

environ. Il y a deux manières : achetez une<br />

excursion d’une journée : désert safari daytrip<br />

pour le Dubai Desert Conservation<br />

Reserve, ou bien réservez une nuitée dans<br />

un hôtel de désert. Les excursions d’une<br />

journée sont à peu près toutes les mêmes,<br />

mais la company Platinum Heritage (qui<br />

a pignon sur rue) s’attache à la protection<br />

du désert et propose des choix d’itinéraires<br />

en fonction des groupes. Vous pouvez vous<br />

initier au « dune bashing » (escalader puis<br />

dévaler les dunes dans des 4x4 aux pneus<br />

sous-gonflés). Attention : ce n’est pas pour<br />

tout le monde ! D’autres moments forts<br />

incluent des démonstrations de fauconnerie<br />

au coucher du soleil ou une balade en<br />

« Dîner sur un tapis magique,<br />

chargé de ragoûts<br />

épicés, de riz parfumés au<br />

clou de girofle, de pains<br />

plats frais et farinés, et de<br />

gâteaux sucrés à la pâte<br />

de dates »<br />

voiture moins tonique pour un sentier<br />

nature à la découverte de l’oryx autochtone<br />

ou d’autres animaux locaux. Et vous<br />

pourrez aussi vous faire conduire dans<br />

une Land Rover des années 60, d’époque,<br />

pour vous sentir une âme d’explorateur.<br />

Par contre, pour une expérience à la<br />

Laurence d’Arabie, vous devrez prévoir de<br />

vous réveiller dans le paysage des dunes<br />

mouvantes aux teintes de rouille qui<br />

s’étendent à perte de vue. Réservez-vous<br />

une chambre au Bab Al Shams, hôtel dans<br />

le style bédouin ou une luxueuse desert<br />

lodge au 5 étoiles Al Maha.<br />

5Décollez en hélico<br />

Il y a quelques villes dans le monde<br />

où un tour en hélicoptère confine à<br />

l’extravagance et parmi celles-ci :


TRANSLATED / 85<br />

Photo: LaPeet<br />

New York, Rio et Dubaï. Vous décollerez<br />

depuis The Palm, cette extension de la côte<br />

désignée en forme de palmier et survolerez<br />

les eaux azurées et soyeuses du Golfe<br />

arabique. The World, cet archipel artificiel<br />

d’îlots dessinés comme une carte du monde<br />

(certains « pays » plus complets que<br />

d’autres) vous laissera sans voix.<br />

Vous reviendrez ensuite vers la terre ferme,<br />

passerez le complexe hôtelier en forme de<br />

voilier du Burj Al Arab (le premier 7 étoiles<br />

du monde) puis, au travers des nombreuses<br />

tours qui composent le centre-ville,<br />

découvrirez d’en haut la tour Burj Khalifa<br />

et ce, pour ne rien dire des grues géantes<br />

nécessaires aux nombreux chantiers en<br />

construction. Vous conserverez une vision<br />

inoubliable d’une ville étincelante qui<br />

continue son expansion entre mer et désert.<br />

Un peu nerveux à l’idée de parcourir<br />

les cieux ? Un tour en hors-bord sera<br />

tout aussi fun. Cheveux au vent dans les<br />

embruns et dans les vrombissements du<br />

moteur, vous longerez les somptueux hôtels<br />

Atlantis et Burj Al Arab.<br />

6Prenez un peu de repos<br />

Vous avez connu des hauts et des<br />

bas, les sables et les eaux... un peu de<br />

tranquillité s’impose à présent. Une des<br />

raisons principales de visiter Dubaï est<br />

tout d’abord le beau temps assuré mais<br />

aussi ces dizaines d’oasis luxuriantes où<br />

vous pourrez vous prélasser. Votre hôtel,<br />

sans doute, disposera d’une vaste piscine<br />

avec transats en tissus éponge (les plus<br />

tranquilles étant celles du Ritz-Carlton<br />

JBR Walk, du Fairmont The Palm et du<br />

Dar Al Masyaf). Si ce n’est pas le cas,<br />

vous pouvez toujours passer une journée<br />

baignade dans un club de plage. RIVA,<br />

à The Palm, propose une plage de sable<br />

Coupe-soif<br />

À Dubaï, l’alcool est réservé aux établissements<br />

d’hôtellerie et de restauration<br />

disposant d’une licence. Ceci dit, les<br />

amateurs de spiritueux pourront assurément<br />

trouver leur bonheur. Les<br />

adresses les plus populaires pour qui<br />

souhaite déguster un cocktail sont, pour<br />

certaines, haut perchées puisqu’elles<br />

se situent au 122e étage de la tour Burj<br />

Khalifa pour le lounge d’At.Mosphere<br />

(réserver à l’avance) et dans la tour Burj<br />

Al Arab, pour le Sky View Bar. Comme<br />

son nom l’indique, le Trader Vic’s Mai-Tai<br />

Lounge propose une carte à rallonge de<br />

cocktails fun et colorés, certains même<br />

sans alcool dits : « virgin ». Le Raffles<br />

Dubai abrite le plus minimaliste des<br />

Crossroads Cocktail Bar, lequel propose<br />

le Raffles Singapore Sling, ainsi que sa<br />

version locale, le Dubai Sling.<br />

« N’oubliez pas de vous<br />

réserver une journée baignade<br />

pour profiter d’un<br />

spa ou d’un club de<br />

plage.»<br />

fin et un bar à pizza décontracté tandis<br />

que Nikki Beach à Jumeirah offre une<br />

ambiance entre Saint-Tropez et Miami.<br />

Si le soleil est trop fort pour vous, vous<br />

pouvez toujours trouver refuge dans la<br />

quiétude d’un spa parfumé de la ville.<br />

Le Talise Ottoman spa du Jumeirah hotel<br />

mérite le détour avec ses marbres polis<br />

paradisiaques, tandis que le One & Only<br />

du The Palm s’enorgueillit de sa technicité<br />

avec son incomparable Givenchy spa.<br />

7Explorez l’histoire de la ville<br />

Avant, il y avait l’or noir, les hôtels<br />

et les palais de congrès. Et les tribus<br />

d’Émiriens. Vous n’êtes pas supposé<br />

rencontrer un Émirien autochtone au<br />

coin de la rue (d’autant plus que les<br />

employés sont pour la plupart des indiens,<br />

des pakistanais et des Philippins), mais<br />

pour qui souhaite en savoir plus sur<br />

l’identité des Émiriens et sur leur histoire<br />

au Moyen-Orient, le Sheikh Mohammed<br />

Centre for Cultural Understanding est<br />

l’endroit indiqué. Là-bas, les visiteurs<br />

pourront se rassembler dans une maison<br />

émirienne traditionnelle du quartier de<br />

Bastakiya, la partie la plus ancienne de<br />

la ville, pour y siroter un café arabe et y<br />

déguster des dates dans une salle à manger<br />

arabe traditionnelle, et y bavarder avec<br />

des locaux. Nasif et sa jeune équipe vous<br />

accueilleront et répondront à toutes vos<br />

questions sans langue de bois. On peut<br />

parler de tout, des coutumes relatives<br />

au mariage, des rituels islamiques, des<br />

vêtements, de la cuisine ou de la façon de<br />

s’amuser de la jeunesse locale. Chaque<br />

question reçoit une réponse détaillée et<br />

informative. Inscrivez-vous au brunch<br />

culturel si vous voulez passer une heure de<br />

plus à dîner sur un tapis magique, chargé<br />

de ragoûts épicés, de riz parfumés au clou<br />

de girofle, de pains plats frais et farinés, et<br />

de gâteaux sucrés à la pâte de dates.<br />

C’est l’un des secrets les mieux gardés de<br />

Dubaï : la plus belle fête du Moyen-Orient<br />

se passe ici.<br />

8À faire sans bourse délier<br />

Malgré toutes les splendeurs des<br />

alentours, on trouve, à Dubaï, des<br />

tonnes de choses à faire sans bourse délier.<br />

Ne manquez donc pas la vieille ville :<br />

prenez un taxi pour le quartier historique<br />

de Bastakiya, où vous pourrez vous<br />

promener en toute sécurité et admirer les<br />

vieilles maisons émiriennes traditionnelles<br />

et leurs « tours à vents » en grès. Tournez<br />

ensuite à droite vers la rivière que vous<br />

longerez jusqu’au Souk des vêtements<br />

pour vous plonger dans les couleurs et<br />

les ambiances. Si vous avez un dirham<br />

(28 KES) de trop, sautez à bord d’un<br />

des abras crachotants qui font office de<br />

bateaux-taxis pour traverser le souk.<br />

Suivez la foule des chalands et vous<br />

trouverez mosquées, boutiques, et le dédale<br />

des souks aux épices, à l’or, et aux parfums.<br />

Les lève-tôt pourront voir passer sur Kite<br />

Beach les expats en route vers leur travail<br />

matinal. Cet espace public de Jumeirah<br />

Beach offre une vue magnifique sur Burj<br />

Khalifa, mais aussi des échoppes de<br />

nourriture et de smoothies ou de jus de<br />

fruit. Ensuite, passez jeter un coup d’œil<br />

sur les œuvres d’artistes locaux et sur les<br />

peintures de paysages exposées à la Majlis<br />

Gallery de Bastakiya. Attendez-vous à y<br />

voir de nombreuses réalisations inspirées<br />

par le Moyen-Orient et une cour ombragée<br />

où se rafraîchir un peu. Ou pourquoi ne<br />

pas aller applaudir un jockey des courses<br />

de chameaux ? A Dubaï, ce genre de<br />

courses est une affaire sérieuse (le Sheikh<br />

est même propriétaire de nombreux<br />

animaux de grande valeur). Les meilleurs<br />

endroits pour se promener et observer les<br />

gens dans le centre touristique sont Dubai<br />

Marina (pour les gratte-ciels démesurés<br />

et les méga-yachts) et JBR Walk (pour<br />

les bars à jus et à café, les boutiques et les<br />

plages publiques de sable blanc).<br />

✈ Réservez votre vol<br />

Voir page 56


86 / TRANSLATED<br />

中 文<br />

旅 行<br />

神 奇 的<br />

开 普 敦<br />

在 开 普 敦 , 创 意 产 业 如 雨 后 春 笋<br />

般 涌 现 。 两 大 社 区 在 当 地 美 食 和<br />

设 计 方 面 占 据 领 先 地 位 。<br />

最 近 的 一 个 下 午 , 在 开 普 敦 备 受 欢<br />

迎 的 潮 人 酒 吧 Gin Bar, 一 位 名 叫 JP du<br />

Toit 的 年 轻 企 业 家 讲 述 了 他 计 划 推 出 自<br />

主 品 牌 的 人 工 奎 宁 水 。 他 指 出 , 当 地 的<br />

微 型 酿 酒 厂 一 直 在 生 产 这 种 人 工 杜 松 子<br />

酒 , 他 们 不 应 该 将 其 与 批 量 生 产 的 奎 宁<br />

水 混 为 一 谈 。<br />

这 只 是 近 期 在 开 普 敦 出 现 的 许 多 宝<br />

贵 建 议 之 一 。 我 们 的 “ 母 亲 城 ” 正 在 大<br />

力 弘 扬 创 业 精 神 , 尤 其 是 在 破 败 一 时 的<br />

地 区 , 以 充 分 利 用 空 间 大 、 租 金 低 这 一<br />

优 势 。 在 市 中 心 的 东 边 , 伍 德 斯 托 克 的<br />

工 业 空 间 被 改 造 成 为 设 计 师 、 餐 厅 老<br />

板 、 艺 术 家 和 咖 啡 公 司 的 大 本 营 。 中 央<br />

商 务 区 ( 当 地 人 称 之 为 CBD) 的 维 多 利<br />

亚 时 期 建 筑 经 过 改 造 和 翻 修 , 摇 身 一 变<br />

成 为 全 新 的 餐 厅 和 夜 生 活 场 所 。<br />

Gin Bar 酒 吧 就 隐 匿 于 小 手 工 巧 克 力<br />

店 Honest Chocolate 后 面 的 庭 院 内 。<br />

在 这 里 , 男 士 们 蓄 着 整 齐 的 胡 须 , 女 士<br />

们 则 穿 着 复 古 开 衫 。 酒 单 主 打 四 款 精 心<br />

调 制 的 鸡 尾 酒 , 它 们 是 Heart( 心 )、<br />

Head( 智 )、Soul( 灵 ) 和 Ambition<br />

( 抱 负 ), 分 别 寓 意 开 普 敦 的 四 大 成 功<br />

要 素 。<br />

开 普 敦 中 央 商 务 区 有 两 家 专 营 杜 松<br />

子 的 酒 吧 。 另 一 家 名 叫 Mother’s Ruin,<br />

供 应 150 种 杜 松 子 酒 , 其 中 15 种 来 自<br />

南 非 。 在 大 多 数 情 况 下 , 这 意 味 着 酒 中<br />

添 加 了 在 桌 山 附 近 生 长 的 非 洲 西 南 地 区<br />

特 有 的 草 本 香 料 植 物 : 硬 叶 灌 木 。 得 益<br />

于 这 些 添 加 物 的 神 奇 功 效 , 杜 松 子 酒 在<br />

开 普 敦 占 据 了 稳 固 的 市 场 地 位 。<br />

美 食 一 条 街<br />

中 央 商 务 区 近 期 发 展 最 快 的 非 Bree<br />

街 ( 总 共 17 个 街 区 ) 莫 属 , 在 过 去 几<br />

年 , 这 里 变 成 了 市 内 全 新 的 热 门 酒 吧 和<br />

餐 厅 集 合 点 。Clarke’s 酒 吧 及 餐 厅 ( 位<br />

于 133 Bree) 供 应 来 自 南 非 西 海 岸 的 新<br />

鲜 牡 蛎 和 美 式 佳 肴 。 与 其 隔 街 相 望 的<br />

Charango 烧 烤 餐 厅 及 酒 吧 (114 Bree)<br />

则 以 秘 鲁 酸 橘 汁 腌 鱼 和 鱼 炸 玉 米 饼 吸 引<br />

了 众 多 食 客 。<br />

在 Heritage Square 的 一 角 ,Love<br />

Thy Neighbour (110) 供 应 自 制 啤 酒 和<br />

地 中 海 梅 泽 、 烧 烤 及 烤 肉 串 。 数 步 开<br />

外 ,Chefs Warehouse & Canteen (92)<br />

提 供 独 具 特 色 的 两 道 菜 套 餐 , 菜 单 中 的<br />

餐 前 小 吃 更 是 每 日 更 新 , 其 特 色 菜 包<br />

括 彩 虹 胡 萝 卜 烧 鹿 肉 和 亚 洲 辣 鸭 汤 。<br />

在 西 南 方 向 的 尽 头 坐 落 着 Culture Club<br />

Cheese (215) 和 Bacon on Bree (217),<br />

两 家 餐 厅 毗 连 而 立 , 供 应 最 顶 级 的 饕<br />

餮 美 食 。 一 家 供 应 卡 普 里 烤 面 包 、<br />

Croque Monsieur 三 明 治 和 三 奶 酪 煎<br />

蛋 ; 另 一 家 则 主 理 BLT 三 明 治 、 培 根<br />

羊 角 面 包 、 培 根 凯 萨 沙 拉 。<br />

时 尚 大 集 合<br />

从 Bree 街 搭 乘 出 租 车 , 只 需 10 分<br />

钟 即 可 抵 达 Woodstock 工 业 区 , 这 里<br />

曾 经 一 片 萧 条 , 治 安 也 不 好 。 然 而 在 曼<br />

德 拉 的 领 导 下 , 彩 虹 之 国 历 经 二 十 年 的<br />

发 展 , 现 在 , 这 里 汇 集 了 众 多 时 尚 精 品<br />

店 、 餐 厅 、 设 计 店 和 寓 所 , 是 除 CBD<br />

之 外 最 受 欢 迎 的 旅 游 目 的 地 。<br />

这 里 最 吸 引 人 的 莫 过 于 坐 落 在 一<br />

家 前 曲 奇 工 厂 ( 现 在 被 称 为 老 饼 干 工<br />

厂 ) 内 的 众 多 创 新 业 务 、 咖 啡 吧 和 艺 术<br />

画 廊 。 如 今 , 这 里 已 成 为 当 地 居 民 和<br />

外 地 游 客 的 主 要 观 光 之 所 。 微 型 烘 焙 室<br />

Espresso Lab 采 用 肯 尼 亚 和 埃 塞 俄 比 亚<br />

丘 陵 地 带 的 单 源 可 可 豆 调 制 咖 啡 , 陶 瓷<br />

工 作 室 Imiso 则 从 毕 加 索 的 作 品 和 非 洲<br />

纹 身 传 统 中 汲 取 灵 感 , 深 受 纪 念 品 爱 好<br />

者 的 青 睐 。<br />

在 一 座 繁 忙 的 庭 院 里 , 坐 落 着 Luke<br />

Dale-Roberts 主 厨 的 Test Kitchen 餐<br />

厅 , 这 家 餐 厅 屡 获 殊 荣 , 其 中 最 著 名 的<br />

要 数 EatOut( 自 2012 年 以 来 ,EatOut<br />

每 年 都 被 评 为 非 洲 领 先 餐 厅 ) 的 年 度 最<br />

佳 餐 厅 奖 。 正 如 餐 厅 的 名 字 一 样 ,Dale-<br />

Roberts 充 分 发 挥 创 意 , 将 南 非 独 特 的<br />

烹 饪 传 统 与 亚 洲 烹 饪 传 统 融 为 一 体 , 创<br />

造 出 甘 草 制 作 的 Wagyu biltong( 一 种 类<br />

似 牛 肉 干 的 五 香 肉 ) 和 耗 时 12 小 时 烹<br />

制 而 成 的 熏 鳟 鱼 鞑 靼 。<br />

Test Kitchen 通 常 需 要 提 前 几 周 才<br />

能 订 到 位 置 , 不 过 , 在 每 周 的 手 工 食 品<br />

市 场 ( 工 厂 附 近 ), 您 可 以 品 尝 到 由 当<br />

地 美 食 家 制 作 的 美 食 。 每 周 六 , 这 里 会<br />

出 售 各 种 外 来 美 食 , 包 括 叙 利 亚 沙 瓦<br />

玛 、 阿 根 廷 鸡 肉 馅 饼 、 荷 兰 小 松 饼 以 及<br />

瓦 伦 西 亚 肉 菜 饭 等 。 除 此 之 外 , 您 还 可<br />

以 品 尝 到 当 地 有 机 农 产 品 、 葡 萄 酒 和 精<br />

酿 啤 酒 。<br />

新 生 代 人 才<br />

Woodstock 的 许 多 仓 库 、 铸 造 厂 和<br />

退 役 工 厂 纷 纷 效 仿 老 饼 干 工 厂 , 它 们 之<br />

“ 许 多 时 尚 餐 厅 、 设<br />

计 店 和 寓 所 使<br />

Woodstock 成 为 备 受<br />

欢 迎 的 游 玩 去 处 ”


“ 在 磨 坊 附 近 的 每 周 手<br />

工 食 品 市 场 可 以 寻 觅 到<br />

各 式 当 地 美 食 ”<br />

中 大 部 分 都 位 于 Albert 路 , 是 该 片 区<br />

主 要 的 商 业 大 道 。 在 距 饼 干 工 厂 数 分 钟<br />

路 程 的 地 方 , 一 间 大 仓 库 被 改 造 成 了 新<br />

型 工 匠 和 时 装 设 计 师 的 “ 合 作 社 ”。 该<br />

合 作 社 取 名 Threads Project, 是 Greg<br />

Swanepoel 的 创 见 , 这 位 服 装 批 发 商 决<br />

定 向 新 人 传 授 其 在 服 装 行 业 逾 三 十 年 的<br />

宝 贵 经 验 。<br />

通 过 共 享 空 间 和 运 营 小 型 企 业 的 物<br />

流 渠 道 , 该 项 目 允 许 年 轻 企 业 家 将 更 多<br />

的 时 间 和 精 力 投 入 到 创 造 方 面 , 而 不 是<br />

日 常 的 会 计 或 电 子 商 务 管 理 。 大 家 采 用<br />

分 租 形 式 共 享 建 筑 和 各 式 各 样 的 产 品 :<br />

包 括 艺 术 作 品 、 鲜 艳 的 比 基 尼 、 环 保 软<br />

木 手 袋 、 竹 袜 和 手 绘 插 图 。 绝 大 多 数 产<br />

品 都 是 在 开 普 敦 设 计 并 制 造 。<br />

在 靠 近 市 中 心 的 Albert Road, 临 街<br />

店 铺 也 变 得 更 加 光 鲜 亮 丽 。 家 具 展 厅 不<br />

再 局 限 于 当 地 艺 术 品 , 而 且 还 展 出 了 价<br />

格 高 昂 的 荷 兰 和 丹 麦 设 计 师 品 牌 家 具 。<br />

所 以 当 Swanepoel 担 心 Woodstock<br />

的 房 价 会 一 直 飙 升 时 , 一 点 都 不 奇 怪 。<br />

他 在 谈 及 Bree 街 和 CBD 其 余 地 段 时 指<br />

出 :“ 既 然 这 一 地 区 已 经 达 到 一 定 的 成<br />

熟 和 饱 和 度 , 我 们 注 意 到 , 人 们 的 目 光<br />

再 次 回 到 了 市 中 心 。” 由 此 看 来 , 开 普<br />

敦 发 展 最 快 的 两 个 地 区 都 与 新 潮 趋 势 密<br />

不 可 分 。<br />

✈ 预 订 航 班<br />

见 第 26 页<br />

旅 行<br />

8 个<br />

视 角 看<br />

迪 拜<br />

阿 联 酋 拥 有 世 界 上 最 高 的 建<br />

筑 、 最 大 的 购 物 中 心 、 水 下 套<br />

房 以 及 价 值 百 万 美 元 的 游 艇 ,<br />

很 显 然 , 阿 联 酋 总 是 有 始 有<br />

终 , 绝 不 会 半 途 而 废 。 当 然 ,<br />

您 也 不 能 半 途 而 废 。<br />

1<br />

周 五 抵 达<br />

想 要 在 此 度 过 一 个 长 周 末 ? 那 么 您<br />

需 要 知 道 , 迪 拜 的 周 末 是 从 周 五<br />

开 始 , 周 六 结 束 。 您 可 以 在 周 五 上 午 抵<br />

达 , 趁 着 人 们 吃 早 午 餐 ( 上 班 族 周 末 最<br />

大 的 活 动 ) 之 前 适 应 一 番 。 有 一 位 百 万<br />

富 翁 对 “ 早 午 餐 ” 的 定 义 是 : 在 冰 雕 和<br />

巧 克 力 喷 泉 附 近 , 巧 妙 地 堆 着 数 不 清 的<br />

寿 司 、 水 果 、 烧 烤 串 和 法 式 蛋 糕 , 而 每<br />

人 的 餐 费 在 450 迪 拉 姆 左 右 。 席 间 , 工<br />

作 人 员 会 常 常 给 酒 杯 斟 满 香 槟 , 现 场 音<br />

乐 表 演 则 使 整 个 用 餐 氛 围 更 臻 完 美 。 在<br />

最 富 丽 堂 皇 的 酒 店 开 启 休 闲 美 食 之 旅 :<br />

皇 宫 酒 店 的 Arboretum 餐 厅 和 皇 家 艾<br />

美 酒 店 的 Maya 餐 厅 ( 用 餐 后 , 客 人 甚<br />

至 还 可 前 往 泳 池 和 海 滩 游 玩 ) 供 应 最 丰<br />

盛 的 早 午 餐 。 与 本 市 最 成 功 的 企 业 高 管<br />

们 举 杯 畅 饮 , 充 分 利 用 在 迪 拜 的 一 分 一<br />

秒 , 感 受 迪 拜 魅 力 四 射 的 社 交 生 活 。<br />

2<br />

乘 坐 世 界 上 最 快 的 电 梯<br />

作 为 世 界 第 一 高 楼 , 哈 利 法 塔 不<br />

仅 拥 有 震 撼 人 心 的 恢 弘 气 势 , 更<br />

有 速 度 极 快 的 电 梯 。 哈 利 法 塔 从 迪 拜 市<br />

中 心 ( 商 务 及 购 物 区 ) 拔 地 而 起 , 耸 入<br />

云 霄 , 其 酷 似 火 箭 飞 船 的 外 形 极 具 未 来<br />

感 , 在 俯 瞰 茫 茫 沙 漠 之 余 , 更 为 湛 蓝 的<br />

天 空 留 下 一 道 靓 丽 的 风 景 线 。 从 125 层<br />

的 观 景 台 俯 瞰 整 座 城 市 , 其 他 摩 天 大 楼<br />

仿 佛 乐 高 积 木 一 般 渺 小 , 而 在 脚 下 巨<br />

大 的 人 工 湖 旁 , 迪 拜 音 乐 喷 泉 美 轮 美<br />

奂 , 变 幻 无 穷 。 登 高 望 远 之 后 , 不 妨<br />

TRANSLATED / 87<br />

到 Social House 咖 啡 厅 小 憩 一 下 ( 位<br />

于 迪 拜 购 物 中 心 边 缘 , 靠 近 哈 利 法 塔 出<br />

口 ), 近 距 离 欣 赏 拉 斯 维 加 斯 风 格 的 喷<br />

泉 表 演 , 以 及 根 据 古 典 乐 、 流 行 乐 或 阿<br />

拉 伯 乐 精 心 编 排 的 舞 蹈 。<br />

3<br />

准 备 好 您 的 信 用 卡<br />

无 论 您 是 否 喜 欢 购 物 , 迪 拜 购 物<br />

中 心 都 是 不 可 错 过 的 一 站 。 阿 联<br />

酋 购 物 中 心 有 一 个 巨 大 的 室 内 滑 雪 场 ,<br />

在 这 里 , 您 可 以 邂 逅 可 爱 的 企 鹅 。 如 果<br />

您 对 时 尚 有 着 独 到 的 眼 光 , 那 么 迪 拜 购<br />

物 中 心 可 谓 您 的 不 二 之 选 。 迪 拜 购 物 中<br />

心 拥 有 500,000 平 方 米 的 购 物 空 间 , 从<br />

高 级 时 装 (Prada、Gucci、Co.) 到 阿<br />

拉 伯 服 饰 ( 镶 嵌 宝 石 的 礼 服 、 水 晶 婚<br />

纱 ) 应 有 尽 有 。 您 可 以 租 一 辆 电 车 , 在<br />

购 物 中 心 内 快 速 穿 梭 , 而 不 必 担 心 迷<br />

路 —— 如 果 步 行 的 话 , 这 是 不 可 避 免<br />

的 。 您 只 需 使 用 大 厅 内 黑 色 柱 子 上 的 电<br />

子 地 图 , 即 可 轻 松 找 到 出 口 。<br />

4<br />

沙 丘 越 野<br />

如 果 您 厌 倦 了 城 市 的 喧 嚣 和 浮 华 ,<br />

不 妨 开 车 到 郊 外 的 锈 红 色 沙 漠 ( 约<br />

40 分 钟 行 程 ) 来 一 场 沙 漠 之 旅 , 这 也<br />

是 迪 拜 最 具 吸 引 力 的 一 大 特 色 。 沙 漠 之<br />

旅 主 要 分 为 两 种 : 在 迪 拜 沙 漠 保 护 区 体<br />

验 沙 漠 一 日 游 , 或 在 沙 漠 营 地 酒 店 住 一<br />

晚 。 虽 然 一 日 游 的 内 容 大 致 相 同 , 但 知<br />

名 公 司 Platinum Heritage 致 力 于 保 护<br />

沙 漠 , 能 够 为 您 的 旅 游 团 提 供 最 合 适 的<br />

行 程 。 也 许 您 想 尝 试 一 下 刺 激 的 “ 沙 丘<br />

越 野 ”( 驾 驶 4x4 越 野 车 穿 越 沙 漠 ),<br />

尽 管 这 可 能 不 适 合 所 有 人 。 其 他 精 彩 活<br />

动 还 包 括 伴 着 夕 阳 观 赏 猎 鹰 、 沿 着 观 光<br />

路 线 驾 车 游 玩 、 观 赏 羚 羊 或 其 他 本 土 生<br />

物 。 您 甚 至 还 可 以 在 司 机 的 陪 伴 下 乘 坐<br />

20 世 纪 60 年 代 的 路 虎 , 来 一 场 真 正 的<br />

探 险 之 旅 。 如 果 您 想 像 《 阿 拉 伯 的 劳 伦<br />

斯 》 一 样 , 不 妨 在 一 望 无 垠 的 沙 漠 之 中<br />

度 过 难 忘 的 一 晚 。 您 可 以 在 贝 都 因 风


88 / TRANSLATED<br />

中 文<br />

格 的 沙 漠 皇 宫 酒 店 预 订 客 房 , 或 者 在<br />

五 星 级 的 沙 漠 绿 洲 度 假 村 体 验 奢 华 的<br />

沙 漠 住 宿 。<br />

5<br />

直 升 机 观 光<br />

世 界 上 有 为 数 不 多 的 几 座 城 市 是 值<br />

得 乘 坐 直 升 机 游 览 一 番 的 , 除 了<br />

纽 约 和 里 约 , 迪 拜 便 是 其 中 之 一 。 您 将<br />

从 棕 榈 岛 起 飞 ( 形 状 酷 似 甜 甜 圈 的 人 造<br />

海 岸 线 ), 飞 越 阿 拉 伯 海 湾 平 静 而 碧 蓝<br />

的 海 水 , 领 略 像 阿 特 拉 斯 一 样 的 人 工 岛<br />

屿 ( 其 中 一 些 “ 国 家 ” 比 其 他 国 家 更 完<br />

整 )。 随 后 , 您 将 飞 越 陆 地 , 经 过 风 帆<br />

形 状 的 帆 船 饭 店 ( 全 球 首 家 “ 七 星 级 ”<br />

酒 店 ) 和 市 中 心 的 摩 天 大 楼 , 俯 瞰 哈 利<br />

法 塔 , 以 及 周 围 正 在 修 建 当 中 的 各 式 建<br />

筑 。 迪 拜 靠 海 而 生 , 依 沙 漠 而 兴 , 看 到<br />

这 座 城 市 繁 荣 发 展 , 着 实 让 人 倍 感 激<br />

动 。 害 怕 乘 坐 直 升 机 ? 乘 坐 快 艇 同 样 很<br />

有 意 思 , 当 您 从 富 丽 堂 皇 的 亚 特 兰 蒂 斯<br />

酒 店 和 帆 船 酒 店 前 方 呼 啸 而 过 , 温 暖 的<br />

海 风 将 吹 起 您 的 头 发 , 轻 抚 您 的 面 颊 。<br />

6<br />

享 受 悠 然 时 光<br />

在 体 验 了 摩 天 大 楼 、 浩 瀚 沙 漠 和<br />

广 阔 大 海 之 后 , 不 要 忘 了 停 下 来<br />

休 息 一 番 。 迪 拜 旅 游 的 亮 点 之 一 是 充 足<br />

的 阳 光 , 您 可 以 在 当 地 人 打 造 的 沙 漠 绿<br />

洲 , 慵 懒 地 接 受 阳 光 的 抚 摸 。 很 多 酒 店<br />

都 提 供 大 型 泳 池 和 豪 华 休 息 室 ( 其 中<br />

环 境 最 为 安 详 宁 静 的 当 属 JBR Walk 大<br />

道 丽 思 卡 尔 顿 、 费 尔 蒙 棕 榈 酒 店 和 卓 美<br />

“ 不 要 忘 了 抽 出<br />

一 天 时 间 到 水 疗<br />

中 心 或 海 滩 俱 乐<br />

部 体 验 一 番 ”<br />

“ 在 充 满 魔 幻 色 彩 的<br />

地 毯 上 享 用 丰 盛 的 美<br />

食 , 包 括 五 香 炖 菜 、<br />

香 味 浓 郁 的 丁 香 饭 、<br />

新 鲜 的 粉 质 面 包 以 及<br />

陈 年 糖 浆 面 团 ”<br />

亚 古 堡 酒 店 ), 如 果 确 实 没 有 , 您 可 以<br />

到 海 滩 俱 乐 部 尽 情 放 松 休 憩 。 棕 榈 岛 的<br />

RIVA 拥 有 如 细 砂 糖 般 洁 白 的 细 沙 和 休<br />

闲 比 萨 店 , 而 卓 美 亚 的 尼 基 海 滩 则 集 迈<br />

阿 密 和 圣 特 罗 佩 风 情 于 一 身 。 如 果 阳 光<br />

太 过 强 烈 , 不 妨 前 往 市 内 静 谧 的 水 疗 中<br />

心 尽 享 放 松 一 刻 : 卓 美 亚 酒 店 的 Talise<br />

Ottoman 屡 获 殊 荣 , 以 大 理 石 铺 设 而<br />

成 , 而 One & Only 棕 榈 岛 度 假 村 酒 店<br />

的 Givenchy 水 疗 中 心 则 不 乏 手 艺 精 湛<br />

的 专 业 护 理 师 。<br />

7<br />

城 市 寻 根 之 旅<br />

早 在 石 油 被 发 现 、 酒 店 和 会 议 中<br />

心 在 此 落 户 之 前 , 阿 联 酋 部 落 便<br />

在 此 地 生 根 繁 衍 。 在 这 里 , 您 可 能 不 会<br />

遇 到 土 生 土 长 的 阿 联 酋 人 ( 大 多 数 服 务<br />

人 员 都 是 从 印 度 、 巴 基 斯 坦 和 菲 律 宾 移<br />

居 到 迪 拜 )。 然 而 , 如 果 您 对 阿 联 酋 在<br />

中 东 地 区 的 身 份 和 历 史 很 好 奇 , 最 好 的<br />

选 择 是 前 往 谢 赫 穆 罕 默 德 文 化 交 流 中 心<br />

探 寻 一 番 。 该 中 心 位 于 市 内 历 史 最 悠 久<br />

的 巴 斯 塔 基 亚 地 区 , 除 了 欣 赏 传 统 的 阿<br />

联 酋 房 屋 外 , 您 还 可 以 在 传 统 阿 拉 伯 餐<br />

厅 内 一 边 品 尝 咖 啡 和 美 食 , 一 边 与 当 地<br />

人 交 流 。Nasif 及 其 热 情 好 客 的 年 轻 团<br />

队 将 详 尽 地 为 您 解 答 各 类 疑 惑 , 包 括 婚<br />

姻 习 俗 、 伊 斯 兰 仪 式 、 服 饰 、 食 物 、 年<br />

轻 的 阿 联 酋 人 如 何 打 发 空 闲 时 间 等 等 。<br />

预 订 文 化 早 午 餐 , 抽 出 一 个 小 时 , 在 充<br />

满 魔 幻 色 彩 的 地 毯 上 享 用 丰 盛 的 美 食 ,<br />

包 括 五 香 炖 菜 、 香 味 浓 郁 的 丁 香 饭 、 新<br />

鲜 的 粉 质 面 包 以 及 陈 年 糖 浆 面 团 。 这 是<br />

迪 拜 最 佳 秘 制 美 食 : 市 内 最 美 味 的 中 东<br />

盛 宴 。<br />

8<br />

免 费 活 动<br />

在 繁 华 的 迪 拜 , 您 可 以 参 加 丰 富<br />

多 彩 的 免 费 活 动 。 老 城 区 是 您 不<br />

可 错 过 的 一 站 : 乘 坐 出 租 车 前 往 历 史 悠<br />

久 的 巴 斯 塔 基 亚 地 区 。 在 这 里 , 您 可 以<br />

放 心 地 四 处 闲 逛 , 参 观 古 老 的 阿 联 酋 房<br />

屋 及 其 砂 岩 “ 风 塔 ”。 然 后 , 于 小 溪 处<br />

左 转 , 沿 着 溪 水 来 到 纺 织 市 场 , 欣 赏<br />

五 颜 六 色 的 纺 织 品 。 只 需 花 费 1 迪 拉 姆<br />

(28 KES), 即 可 乘 坐 水 上 出 租 车 穿 越 市<br />

场 。 跟 随 购 物 人 群 一 路 前 行 , 您 将 看 到<br />

清 真 寺 、 各 式 商 店 、 蜿 蜒 曲 折 的 香 料 、<br />

黄 金 和 香 水 市 场 。<br />

如 果 您 心 情 不 错 , 可 以 加 入 当 地 的 外 国<br />

人 群 , 在 风 筝 海 滩 ( 卓 美 亚 海 滩 的 公 共<br />

沙 滩 ) 欣 赏 哈 利 法 塔 的 壮 观 美 景 , 在 小<br />

吃 摊 、 冰 沙 / 果 汁 摊 选 购 美 食 , 度 过 愉<br />

悦 的 上 午 时 光 。 随 后 , 您 可 以 前 往 巴 斯<br />

塔 基 亚 的 Majlis 画 廊 , 欣 赏 当 地 艺 术<br />

作 品 及 油 画 。 这 里 有 很 多 中 东 风 格 的 作<br />

品 , 还 有 一 座 阴 凉 的 庭 院 。 此 外 , 您 还<br />

可 以 参 观 骆 驼 比 赛 , 为 驼 背 上 的 英 雄 呐<br />

喊 助 威 。 迪 拜 非 常 重 视 这 项 历 史 悠 久 的<br />

体 育 赛 事 ( 酋 长 拥 有 多 匹 价 值 不 菲 的 骆<br />

驼 )。 在 这 座 旅 游 城 市 , 迪 拜 码 头 ( 先<br />

进 而 奇 特 的 摩 天 大 楼 和 巨 大 的 游 艇 ) 和<br />

JBR Walk( 果 汁 和 咖 啡 吧 、 商 店 、 白<br />

沙 公 共 沙 滩 ) 堪 称 闲 庭 漫 步 、 看 云 卷 云<br />

舒 的 最 佳 场 所 。<br />

✈ 预 订 航 班<br />

见 第 56 页


HABARI /89


SAFARI NJEMA / 91<br />

At Victoria Falls, peak levels<br />

see up to 500 million litres of<br />

water plummet almost 100<br />

metres downwards every minute.<br />

✈ To book flights to Victoria<br />

Falls go to kenya-airways.com.<br />

Safari Njema<br />

Direct flights to<br />

Victoria Falls<br />

Starting May 1st, Kenya<br />

Airways will offer new<br />

direct flights between Nairobi<br />

and Victoria Falls, with a<br />

final destination in Cape<br />

Town. Victoria Falls will be<br />

KQ’s 52nd international<br />

destination, and its second<br />

in Zimbabwe, after Harare.<br />

The new flight path will also<br />

provide a direct service<br />

between Victoria Falls<br />

and Cape Town. KQ will<br />

become the first carrier to<br />

offer the direct service. It<br />

will also be the only airline<br />

to serve both Livingstone<br />

and Victoria Falls, giving<br />

travellers the option to<br />

land in either Zambia or<br />

Zimbabwe.<br />

✈ CATCH THIS FLIGHT<br />

The Nairobi-Victoria Falls-Cape Town<br />

route flies on an Embraer E190,<br />

which will operate three times a<br />

week, on Monday, Thursday and<br />

Saturday. Flights depart from<br />

Nairobi at 7:20a.m., arriving in<br />

Victoria Falls at 9:30a.m., then<br />

depart from Victoria Falls at<br />

10:20a.m. to arrive in Cape Town<br />

at 1:25p.m. Return flights leave<br />

Cape Town at 2:15p.m., arrive<br />

at Victoria Falls at 5:10p.m., and<br />

depart Victoria Falls at 6p.m., to<br />

return to Nairobi at 10p.m.<br />

Hollandse Hoogte


KQ launched a carbon<br />

offset programme in<br />

2011, the first African<br />

airline to do so.<br />

News<br />

Awards<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 93<br />

✈ KQ serves more than 10,000<br />

meals on board, making it the<br />

largest restaurant in Kenya.<br />

African Cargo Airline of the Year<br />

Kenya Airways Cargo has cemented its position as a leading<br />

global player in the air cargo industry by winning the African<br />

Cargo Airline of the Year Award <strong>2017</strong>. KQ Cargo transports<br />

over 160 tonnes of cargo annually across the airline’s network<br />

in Africa.<br />

The award comes on the back of the airline being named<br />

Africa’s Leading Airline less than a year ago, at the World<br />

Travel Awards in 2016. It was also named Best Business Class<br />

for the fourth year running at the same awards. Kenya<br />

Airways will continue to expand and improve its services.<br />

Getty Images<br />

Imports and exports<br />

Blooming<br />

Business<br />

Kenya Airways Cargo is now exporting Kenyan cut<br />

flowers to Australia.<br />

The airline’s cargo carrier is planning to carry more than 30<br />

tonnes of flowers to the continent every month, making them<br />

available to key flower markets in cities such as Sydney and<br />

Melbourne. A partnership between Kenya Airways Cargo and<br />

Qantas Airways, Australia’s largest airline, has enabled the<br />

new service. “This is a major game-changer for Kenya, in<br />

terms of increasing trade exports of flowers to non-traditional<br />

markets,” says Kenya Airways Cargo Sales Manager Patricia<br />

Odida. “This partnership opens up the Australian market<br />

for exporters and is a business opportunity for us.” Kenya<br />

Airways Cargo continues to expand its business in the<br />

fast-growing flower industry by working to open up a new<br />

gateway in Bangkok, and doing business with China.<br />

Quote<br />

“I am because<br />

WE are and, since<br />

we are, therefore<br />

I am”<br />

− John S. Mbiti −<br />

Kenyan philosopher & writer


94 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

Want to know the carbon<br />

emission of your flight?<br />

Visit climatecare.org<br />

and click on the<br />

carbon calculator.<br />

Aircraft maintenance<br />

Building Knowledge<br />

News<br />

✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />

Paris more often, with six direct<br />

flights each week.<br />

Kenya Airways’ technical team is being trained and certified at<br />

Etihad Airways Engineering in Abu Dhabi, in order to perform<br />

routine mandatory C-checks on its new Dreamliner fleet.<br />

C-checks (comprehensive maintenance checks) are part of the<br />

integration programme of the new fleet of Boeing 787-8 aircrafts.<br />

Trip tips<br />

Flying Value Pass<br />

KQ is introducing a ticketing service designed for frequent<br />

business flyers. Through the new “Flight Pass” service, you<br />

can buy anywhere from 6 to 500 tickets at a single time for a<br />

guaranteed price. The tickets can be used by different people,<br />

for example your employees or colleagues on a company trip.<br />

Sustainability<br />

Better Health<br />

The Wildlife Works Kasigau Corridor project in<br />

Kenya is making a significant impact on nature and<br />

local health. By simply ticking a box when you book a<br />

ticket at Kenya Airways, you can offset your emissions<br />

from that flight and reduce your carbon footprint.<br />

Quote<br />

“When you offset your<br />

carbon footprint through<br />

KQ, your money helps to<br />

improve community<br />

health facilities”<br />

− Emily, Wildlife Works<br />

community relations officer –<br />

The Kasigau Corridor REDD+ project run by Wildlife Works<br />

protects more than 500,000 acres of highly threatened forest,<br />

securing the wildlife migration corridor between Tsavo East<br />

and Tsavo West national parks. The project benefits more than<br />

110,000 rural Kenyans in the communities that share the same<br />

environment. The project has also created many jobs, and all<br />

280 local Wildlife Works employees receive health<br />

insurance, covering treatment and medication for illnesses<br />

such as HIV and Malaria. Free doctors visits are available to<br />

everyone, and female employees may speak to female doctors.<br />

Educational seminars about health issues are also offered yearround.<br />

One of the leading causes of poor health is lack of<br />

access to clean water. To address this issue, the community<br />

allocates a large proportion of its proceeds to improving water<br />

access. Initiatives have included building a rock catchment<br />

that provides water to 7,000 local people and a roof catchment<br />

for a local dispensary.<br />

~ The KQ offset programme, run by ClimateCare, is approved by the<br />

International Air Transport Association as a way to take responsibility<br />

for unavoidable carbon emissions during your flight. If you want to<br />

offset your flight on landing, visit wildlifeworks.com/shopcarbon/


Did you forget to give your<br />

Flying Blue number when<br />

booking? You can reclaim<br />

your Miles up to six months<br />

after your flight.<br />

Flying Blue<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 95<br />

✈ With Flying Blue, you earn Award<br />

Miles and use them to treat yourself to<br />

a flight or an upgrade.<br />

Membership levels<br />

Miles!<br />

Miles!<br />

Miles!<br />

The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />

Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or<br />

a SkyTeam partner. You can then redeem these Miles against<br />

KQ-operated flights or an upgrade.<br />

There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying<br />

flight you take, you will earn Level Miles that will take you to a higher<br />

level. When you first enrol, you will be awarded Ivory status, which<br />

progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately Platinum. The more you travel<br />

with us or our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which<br />

results in you earning more Award Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />

Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by<br />

Kenya Airways and to destinations covered by SkyTeam partner airlines.<br />

Your accumulated Award Miles are valid for twenty months, which can<br />

be extended with a flight made on Kenya Airways or one of our<br />

SkyTeam partners at least once every twenty months. The total number<br />

of Miles credited to your account depends on the distance flown and<br />

travel class chosen.<br />

~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />

Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />

1<br />

Exchange<br />

Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />

any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />

Business Class.<br />

2<br />

Check<br />

Your choice of destination determines the<br />

number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So<br />

please check if you have sufficient Miles for your<br />

choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is<br />

advisable to have flexible date options in case your<br />

initial choice is not available.<br />

3<br />

Redeem<br />

Once you have made your choice, you can<br />

redeem your Award Miles in several ways:<br />

A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in<br />

Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />

or +254 711 024747.<br />

B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to<br />

“Flying Blue-Award Booking”.<br />

C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to “Spend Miles-<br />

Award Order Form”. For further information contact<br />

us via kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />

4<br />

Tax<br />

Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />

will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so<br />

via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any<br />

Kenya Airways office.<br />

5<br />

Easy does it<br />

Five steps to make<br />

the most of your Miles.<br />

Ticket<br />

Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />

will be sent to you at your stated email address.<br />

~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the<br />

event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex<br />

Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the<br />

Award Miles.<br />

Getty images<br />

~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business<br />

Class when you have already purchased an Economy<br />

Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for<br />

all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in<br />

Business Class.


WE KNOW THAT SOMETIMES GETTING BACK QUICKLY<br />

IS AS IMPORTANT AS GETTING THERE.<br />

With 20 SkyTeam member airlines and a large number of partners to connect you to the world,<br />

travelling is seamless. Covering more than 1,060 destinations worldwide and providing access to over<br />

670 exclusive lounges, SkyTeam makes it easy to get wherever you need to go. Visit skyteam.com


SkyTeam has a total of<br />

17 different Frequent Flyer<br />

Programmes and operates 672<br />

lounges worldwide.<br />

SkyTeam<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 97<br />

SkyTeam serves 200 million<br />

frequent flyers via<br />

20 member airlines.<br />

Discover what’s new<br />

Loyalty<br />

Innovations<br />

At SkyTeam, making your travel experience<br />

ever more seamless is at the heart of everything<br />

we do. It’s what makes us the leading global<br />

alliance for air travel. Here are four innovations<br />

that ensure smoother connectivity between our<br />

members’ frequent flyer programmes.<br />

1<br />

Accrue miles around the globe<br />

Earning Miles while flying with SkyTeam is now<br />

even easier. Simply input your frequent flyer number<br />

on booking or at check-in. Your Miles will be<br />

automatically credited to your account when you fly<br />

with any of our twenty SkyTeam member airlines.<br />

2<br />

Always get your miles<br />

Every Mile counts, so we’ll help you collect the ones<br />

you thought you had lost. Forgot to enter your frequent<br />

flyer number before departure? No problem, your Miles<br />

will be automatically credited for any SkyTeam<br />

members’ flight, even after arrival. Simply go to your<br />

loyalty programme’s website and enter your travel<br />

information. Your request will be confirmed within<br />

seconds and your Miles will be added to your account.<br />

3<br />

Rewards a few clicks away<br />

System integration between our members allows<br />

you to redeem your Miles for award tickets on any<br />

SkyTeam-operated flight with ease. In just a few clicks,<br />

you can book your award ticket directly on your loyalty<br />

programme’s website and choose from any of the<br />

17,000+ SkyTeam flights operated daily.<br />

4<br />

Alliance-wide status<br />

You earned the perks and we’ll deliver them<br />

wherever you fly. That means the benefits you have as<br />

an Elite or Elite Plus customer will be recognised by<br />

all our members.<br />

~ Stay up-to-date on the latest insights, services and rewards on<br />

skyteam.com.<br />

Text: Nils Elzenga


98 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

Global Network<br />

London<br />

GREAT BRITAIN<br />

THE NETHERLANDS<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Paris<br />

FRANCE<br />

SENEGAL<br />

Dakar<br />

Bamako<br />

Freetown<br />

SIERRA LEONE<br />

Monrovia<br />

LIBERIA<br />

MALI<br />

COTE BENIN Abuja<br />

D'IVOIRE GHANA Lagos<br />

Abidjan Accra<br />

Cotonou<br />

NIGERIA<br />

SUDAN<br />

SAUDI ARABIA<br />

Jeddah<br />

Djibouti<br />

DJIBOUTI<br />

CENTRAL SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA<br />

CAMEROON<br />

AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />

Juba<br />

Douala<br />

Yaoundé<br />

Bangui<br />

UGANDA KENYA<br />

Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu<br />

Kigali NAIROBI<br />

RWANDA<br />

Brazzaville DEMOCRATIC<br />

Malindi<br />

REPUBLIC OF Bujumbura Kilimanjaro Mombasa<br />

Kinshasa THE CONGO BURUNDI<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Luanda<br />

Khartoum<br />

Addis<br />

Ababa<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

Moroni/COMOROS<br />

ANGOLA<br />

Lubumbashi<br />

MALAWI<br />

Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />

Ndola Lilongwe<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

Lusaka<br />

Blantyre<br />

Nampula<br />

Livingstone<br />

Harare<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Antananarivo<br />

Dubai<br />

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />

Mahé<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

Mumbai<br />

INDIA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Gaborone<br />

Johannesburg<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Maputo<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

SOUTH<br />

AFRICA<br />

Chantal van Wessel/ Vizualism<br />

Cape Town


SAFARI NJEMA / 99<br />

Kenya Airways Fleet<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />

70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />

Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />

Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

CHINA<br />

Hanoi<br />

VIETNAM<br />

Bangkok<br />

THAILAND<br />

Guangzhou<br />

Hong Kong<br />

HONG KONG<br />

Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />

Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />

227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />

56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />

Boeing 737-800<br />

Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />

79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />

cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />

sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />

Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />

Embraer 190<br />

Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />

Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />

51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />

Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />

engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />

Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m


100 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

Kenya’s Great Rift Valley<br />

spans 8,000 km<br />

and was formed<br />

20 million years ago.<br />

Welcome to Kenya<br />

✈ KQ exceeded three<br />

million passengers in 2011<br />

– and counting!<br />

Practical tips<br />

What & How<br />

Getting around<br />

On Arrival<br />

TO THE CITY<br />

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />

from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />

drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />

VISA<br />

Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />

available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />

prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />

airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />

You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />

the moment of entry.<br />

Health<br />

Emergency services<br />

Dial 999. Note that<br />

ambulance services are<br />

mostly private. Services<br />

include: St Johns<br />

Ambulance +254 72 161<br />

1555 or Kenya Red<br />

Cross Ambulance<br />

+254 71 771 4938.<br />

Hospitals<br />

Nairobi and Mombasa<br />

have good hospitals.<br />

Medical expenses<br />

Make sure you have<br />

adequate travel health<br />

insurance and accessible<br />

funds to cover the cost of<br />

any medical treatment.<br />

Consultations and<br />

treatments will have to<br />

be paid for at the time,<br />

and the costs claimed<br />

back later.<br />

General<br />

Voltage<br />

240 volts AC, using<br />

three-square-pin,<br />

13-amp-type plugs.<br />

Security<br />

It is advisable not to walk<br />

alone in isolated areas<br />

in towns or on beaches,<br />

particularly after dark.<br />

Tipping<br />

Tips are appreciated. Most<br />

hotels/restaurants add a<br />

10 percent service charge.<br />

Water<br />

It is wise to drink or use<br />

only boiled or bottled water,<br />

and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />

Self-drive<br />

Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />

side of the road, and<br />

most cars are right-hand<br />

drive. A current driving<br />

licence with photograph is<br />

accepted for up to a threemonth<br />

stay.<br />

Public transport<br />

Nairobi is the only city with<br />

an effective municipal bus<br />

service. Local (private)<br />

matatus are the main<br />

means of getting around,<br />

and most cities and towns<br />

have plenty of services.<br />

Photography<br />

Taking photographs of<br />

official buildings, including<br />

embassies, can lead to<br />

detention. Photography is<br />

also prohibited at airports.<br />

Embassies & consulates<br />

All embassies are<br />

located in Nairobi.<br />

ID<br />

You must carry a valid form<br />

of ID with you at all times.<br />

Post office<br />

Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />

a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />

Telephone/internet<br />

Phone cards may be<br />

bought from post offices<br />

or international call<br />

offices. Emails can be sent<br />

from most hotels.<br />

Money matters<br />

Currency<br />

Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />

Currency regulations<br />

There are no restrictions on<br />

the movement of currency<br />

into or out of Kenya for<br />

currency transactions.<br />

Banking<br />

Banks are generally open<br />

from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />

Mondays to Fridays;<br />

and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />

Saturdays. Banks in<br />

coastal towns open<br />

and close half an hour<br />

earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />

international VISA cards.<br />

Credit cards<br />

Visa and MasterCard are<br />

widely accepted.<br />

Hotel bill payment<br />

Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />

convertible currency.<br />

Most hotels also accept<br />

credit cards.<br />

Getty Images


SAFARI NJEMA / 101<br />

SOUTH-<br />

SUDAN<br />

ETHIOPIA<br />

Lokichokio<br />

Muruasigar<br />

2149 m<br />

Songot 1755 m<br />

Central<br />

Island<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Namoratunga<br />

Stones<br />

Lodwar<br />

LAKE<br />

TURKANA<br />

Sibiloi<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

CHALBI DESERT<br />

Moyale<br />

Malka Mari<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

LAKE<br />

VICTORIA<br />

UGANDA<br />

Nasolot<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

TANZANIA<br />

South<br />

Turkana<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Masai Mara<br />

National Reserve<br />

South<br />

Island<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

Nairobi<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

LAKE<br />

MAGADI<br />

Shompole<br />

Conservancy<br />

Loiyangalani<br />

Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Losai<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Marsabit<br />

Marsabit<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Maralal<br />

Saiwa<br />

National Matthew’s Peak<br />

Swamp<br />

Sanctuary 2375 m<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Kaisungua<br />

Maralal<br />

Reserve<br />

Kitale<br />

3167 m<br />

Samburu<br />

National<br />

Mt Elgon<br />

Kerio Valley<br />

Reserve<br />

Shaba National<br />

4322 m<br />

National Reserve<br />

Reserve<br />

ELDORET<br />

Archer’s Post<br />

LAKE BARINGA<br />

Kakamega<br />

Buffalo Springs<br />

Forest Reserve<br />

Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />

National<br />

Meru<br />

Reserve<br />

Kakamega<br />

National Reserve<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Ndere Island<br />

Nanyuki<br />

National Park<br />

KISUMU<br />

Meru<br />

Mt Londiani<br />

Rusinga Island<br />

Kericho<br />

3000 m<br />

North<br />

Nakuru<br />

Mt Kenya Kitu<br />

Lake Nakuru<br />

5199 m<br />

National<br />

Mfangango<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Nyerri Embu<br />

Reserve<br />

Island<br />

Kisii<br />

Muranga’a Mwea<br />

Ruma<br />

Hell’s Gate<br />

National<br />

National<br />

National Park<br />

Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />

Park<br />

RIFT VALLEY<br />

Longonot National Park<br />

Thika<br />

Migori<br />

Narok<br />

NAIROBI<br />

Oi Donyo National Park<br />

Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />

OFFICES & AGENTS<br />

Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />

P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />

Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />

Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />

Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />

JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />

Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />

Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />

Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />

Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />

KENYA<br />

Voi<br />

Kora<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Kajiado<br />

West<br />

Chyulu Game<br />

Conservation<br />

Area<br />

Amboseli<br />

National Park<br />

Tsavo<br />

East<br />

National<br />

Tsavo West<br />

Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />

Rahole<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Mwaluganje<br />

Elephant<br />

Sanctuary<br />

Shimba Hills<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Garissa<br />

MOMBASA<br />

Wajir<br />

Tana River<br />

Primate National<br />

Reserve<br />

Arabuko<br />

Malindi Marine<br />

Sokoke<br />

National Park<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

MALINDI<br />

Watamu Marine<br />

National Park<br />

Kilifi<br />

Diani<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Kisite Marine National Park<br />

Boni<br />

National<br />

Arawale Reserve<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

Dodori<br />

National<br />

Reserve<br />

SOMALIA<br />

INDIAN<br />

OCEAN<br />

100 km


Wangari Maathai, the founder of<br />

Kenya’s Green Belt Movement, an<br />

environmental group, became the<br />

first African woman to win the Nobel<br />

Peace Prize in 2004.<br />

Magical Kenya<br />

SAFARI NJEMA / 103<br />

✈ Find a full list of Kenya’s<br />

eco-certified hotels and camps at<br />

ecotourismkenya.org/facility.php<br />

Alamy<br />

Sustainable Tourism<br />

Taking Care of Kenya<br />

Text: Nils Elzenga<br />

This is the year of Sustainable<br />

Tourism for Development,<br />

according to the United Nations.<br />

Kenya is already doing its part<br />

to support sustainable tourism.<br />

The UN General Assembly declared<br />

<strong>2017</strong> as the International Year of<br />

Sustainable Tourism for Development,<br />

calling tourist partners all over the world<br />

to help reach the goals set by the<br />

UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable<br />

Development. These seventeen sustainable<br />

development goals include ending<br />

poverty and hunger, achieving gender<br />

equality and reducing economic inequality<br />

within countries. The tourism<br />

sector can play an important role in<br />

meeting these goals, says UN Secretary-General,<br />

Antonio Guterres. “Every<br />

day, more than three million tourists<br />

cross international borders,” he says.<br />

“Tourism is a pillar of economies, a passport<br />

to prosperity and a transformative<br />

force for improving lives. The world must<br />

harness the power of tourism as we strive<br />

to carry out the UN’s 2030 Agenda.”<br />

KENYA’S ROLE<br />

The Kenya Tourism Board has signed<br />

on to participate in this platform, and<br />

issued its Sustainable Tourism Report in<br />

2016, stating that “sustainability is no<br />

longer a distant phenomenon but a<br />

reality that all destinations must face.”<br />

Kenya has been involved for many<br />

years in efforts to promote responsible<br />

tourism. In 2002, the Eco-Rating<br />

Scheme certification tool was established<br />

to designate accommodations with<br />

out-standing environmental and<br />

socio-cultural practices.<br />

ECO-RATED STAYS<br />

There are more than 100 eco-certified<br />

accommodations in Kenya so far.<br />

Gold-rated facilities include the<br />

Porini Amboseli Camp (Selenkay<br />

Conservancy), Elsa’s Kopje Lodge<br />

(Meru National Park) and Medina<br />

Palms Hotel (coast). Other tourist<br />

destinations such as the Lewa Wildlife<br />

Conservancy, Ol Pejeta Conservancy<br />

and Mara Naboisho Conservancy<br />

have won prestigious awards for their<br />

sustainable practices. Together, visitors<br />

and locals can preserve Kenya in all<br />

her glory.


SAFARI NJEMA / 105<br />

Cargo<br />

Seafood<br />

Bountiful Catch<br />

Text: Nils Elzenga Photo: Alamy<br />

Madagascar has a spectacular<br />

underwater landscape and plenty<br />

of coastline to support the<br />

thriving population of sea life.<br />

So it is not surprising that it is the prime<br />

source of live seafood, including king<br />

crabs and lobsters, that Kenya Airways<br />

Cargo transports daily to destinations<br />

across Asia. “China is our largest<br />

market,” explains Peter Musola,<br />

Commercial Manager of Kenya<br />

Airways Cargo. “But we also deliver to<br />

Hong Kong, Thailand, Japan and<br />

South Korea.”<br />

Mozambique, separated from<br />

Madagascar by a mere channel, also<br />

exports increasing amounts of live<br />

seafood, as do both Tanzania and<br />

Kenya, but Musola is optimistic:<br />

“Demand outstrips supply at the<br />

moment,” he says, “so we really expect<br />

exponential growth in this promising<br />

trade. And everyone involved will<br />

benefit from it.”<br />

Seafood from African coastal countries<br />

like Madagascar and Mozambique<br />

is renowned for its high quality and<br />

delicious taste. The tight logistical<br />

planning provided by Kenya Airways<br />

Cargo in transporting seafood around<br />

the world contributes to its freshness<br />

upon arrival. Kenya Airways Cargo is<br />

proud of its role in delivering fresh<br />

catch to overseas customers, and the<br />

company is positioned to transport<br />

more seafood – both fresh and farmed<br />

– as local supplies increase.<br />

How seafood flies<br />

Kenya Airways transports live<br />

seafood – both fresh and farmed<br />

– daily from Madagascar to Kenya<br />

in its Brazilian Embraer passenger<br />

aircraft (2-3 tonnes), and weekly<br />

during peak season between<br />

November and February in its Boeing<br />

737-300 Freighter cargo aircraft<br />

(15-20 tonnes). From Kenya, the<br />

seafood continues its journey to Asia<br />

in Boeing 787 Dreamliners.


106 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />

KQ won the Best<br />

Business Class in<br />

Africa for four years<br />

in a row from World<br />

Travel Awards.<br />

Get Comfortable<br />

✈ KQ received an International<br />

Safety Award in 2014 from the<br />

British Safety Council.<br />

What you need to know<br />

Flight Mode<br />

Safety<br />

Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />

take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />

pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />

Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />

and mobile phones may not be used during<br />

take-off and landing.<br />

Hand luggage<br />

Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />

or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />

will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />

seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />

1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />

meal and take some gentle exercise<br />

before your flight.<br />

Travel<br />

On The Move<br />

Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />

2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />

3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />

up and walking in the aisle when<br />

possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />

shoulders and neck.<br />

4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />

journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />

throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />

Quote<br />

moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />

drink plenty of water and moderate<br />

your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />

“Whatever you are looking<br />

for is also looking for you”<br />

– Sahndra Fon Dufe –<br />

Cameroon-born actress and author<br />

5 When travelling across time zones<br />

your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />

disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />

appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />

some time to adjust to new night and<br />

day cycles when you arrive.<br />

6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />

possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />

body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />

Seat adjustments<br />

Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />

landing.<br />

Infants<br />

Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />

selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />

baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />

Inflight service<br />

A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />

flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />

are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />

courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />

spirits and soft drinks.<br />

Entertainment<br />

Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />

movies and music is available on our long- and<br />

medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />

guide in Msafiri.<br />

Take-off<br />

The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />

take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />

a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />

aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />

are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />

during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />

may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />

Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />

the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />

Landing<br />

After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />

engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />

to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />

engines are off and the doors are open.

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