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Msafiri April <strong>2017</strong> edition 132 kenya-airways.com<br />
Connecting Africa to the World<br />
8<br />
Ways to See<br />
Dubai<br />
Discover<br />
Cape Town<br />
The local lowdown<br />
Heritage<br />
in a Bottle<br />
Tusker Beer’s Success Story<br />
Free to Take Home April <strong>2017</strong>
Your tax business<br />
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© <strong>2017</strong> KPMG Advisory Services Limited, a Kenyan Limited Liability Company and a member<br />
firm of the KPMG network of independent member firms affiliated with KPMG International<br />
Cooperative (“KPMG International”), a Swiss entity. All rights reserved.
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INTRODUCTION / 11<br />
Enjoy Your Flight<br />
“Safety is<br />
Good<br />
Business”<br />
Meet PETER KIMERIA, head of Safety<br />
& Quality at Kenya Airways. He explains<br />
how ensuring safety is KQ’s top priority.<br />
“It is our license to fly.”<br />
Cover image: Alamy<br />
Msafiri April <strong>2017</strong> edition 132 kenya-airways.com<br />
Connecting Africa to the World<br />
8<br />
Ways to See<br />
Dubai<br />
Discover<br />
Cape Town<br />
The Local Lowdown<br />
Heritage<br />
in a Bottle<br />
Tusker Beer’s Success Story<br />
Free to Take Home April <strong>2017</strong><br />
What brought you to Kenya Airways?<br />
I graduated from Embry-Riddle<br />
Aeronautical University with a B.Sc.<br />
in Aeronautical Science and applied to<br />
work at Kenya Airways because it is the<br />
leading airline in the country. I knew<br />
that working here would help me grow<br />
my career. I joined in 1997 as First<br />
Officer, became Captain in 2005, and<br />
joined the Safety Team in 2009. I<br />
strongly believe in the values at the core<br />
of Kenya Airways: safety, customer,<br />
respect, integrity, passion and trust,<br />
or S-C-R-I-P-T, for short.<br />
What does the Safety Team do?<br />
We see to it that safety comes first and<br />
foremost. It is our license to fly. We are<br />
involved in operations across the board,<br />
from flight to maintenance to industrial<br />
safety. While each pursues a separate<br />
safety mandate, all teams are committed<br />
to the development, maintenances and<br />
continuous improvement of the Safety<br />
Management System.<br />
How are standards maintained?<br />
We use International Civil Aviation<br />
Organization guidelines. Our Quality<br />
Assurance Team schedule internal<br />
audits, spot checks and inspections to<br />
make sure that we meet the expected<br />
industry safety standards at all times.<br />
This non-stop dedication to safety and<br />
quality has been recognised internationally.<br />
We pride ourselves on being part of<br />
the coveted IATA Operational Safety<br />
Audit. The IOSA standards give an<br />
independent assurance of our safety<br />
record. In addition, the British Safety<br />
Council presented Kenya Airways with<br />
International Safety Awards in 2015<br />
and 2016 for the commitment to<br />
keeping employees and workplaces<br />
healthy and safe.<br />
What are you passionate about in your job?<br />
Communication. We aim to demonstrate<br />
maturity in our safety culture by<br />
constantly communicating our commitment<br />
to a “just system” that seeks to<br />
identify the root causes of possible<br />
safety events as opposed to assigning<br />
blame. The practices we have in place<br />
are sound and rigorous and I am confident<br />
that we can continue to ensure the<br />
highest levels of safety. That’s our job.<br />
And it’s a job I’m honoured to do.<br />
Kenya Airways World Travel Awards<br />
• Winner of Best Airline in Africa, 2016<br />
• Winner of Africa’s Leading Airline –<br />
Business Class 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
CONTENTS / 13<br />
Travel & Nature<br />
16 Climbing High<br />
Impressive Mount Kenya<br />
19 Habari<br />
Kenya & the world<br />
26 Let’s Go<br />
to Cape Town<br />
46 Tanzania<br />
at a glance<br />
56 Dubai<br />
8 ways to see the city<br />
63 Guess and win<br />
Travel quiz<br />
64 Safe from harm<br />
Wildlife sanctuaries<br />
64<br />
56<br />
People<br />
24 People to watch<br />
Top fashion entrepreneurs<br />
36 Synergies in sound<br />
Coke Studio musicians<br />
Publisher Kenya Airways | Corporate Communications Manager Wanjiku Mugo Advertising Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose<br />
Kagori Concept, Content & Production G+J Custom Content | CEO Eric Blok Creative Director Loes van Dokkum Art Director Sabine Verschueren Managing Editor Helmke van Geel,<br />
Annette Lavrijsen Design Cynthia Schippers, Gaby Walther Sub Editors Julia Gorodecky, Annemarie Hoeve, Nina Siegal Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer, Markus Seewald Contributors<br />
Tanveer Badal, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Edith Carron, Eromo Egbejule, Nils Elzenga, Barbara Groen, Desiree Hoving, Danitsja Kallendorf, LaPeet, Dana van Leeuwen, Natascha<br />
Mijnhart, Astrid Nühn, Joyce Plokkaar, Jurriaan Teulings, Lucy Thackray, Eva de Vries, Ivy Wairimu, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Joanne Wienen Translation Concorde<br />
Production Manager Hans Koedijker IT Manager Olaf de Jager Lithography Ready4Print Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen
14 / CONTENTS<br />
Fly Guide<br />
71 Highlights<br />
Inflight entertainment guide<br />
91 Safari Njema<br />
93 News & Service<br />
95 Flying Blue News<br />
97 Skyteam News<br />
98 Route Maps<br />
105 Cargo<br />
106 Get Comfortable<br />
26<br />
Business<br />
36<br />
42 Heritage in a bottle<br />
The story of Tusker Beer<br />
48 Happy hubs<br />
Booming tech valleys<br />
53 Work-life balance<br />
How to manage it<br />
55 Fit while traveling<br />
Handy tips<br />
81 Msafiri en Français<br />
86 Msafiri 中 文 版<br />
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, <strong>msafiri</strong>@kenya-airways.com<br />
Website: kenya-airways.com; Facebook: Kenya Airways; Twitter: @kenyaairways; Instagram: officialkenyaairways<br />
Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, <strong>msafiri</strong>@mediaedgeke.comG+J Media, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam,<br />
the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, www.genj.nl.<br />
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation.<br />
Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at www.kenia-airways.com.
16 / NATURE / Views /<br />
Climbing<br />
High<br />
The rocky summit of<br />
MOUNT KENYA<br />
rises up to meet the<br />
sky at a height of 5,199<br />
metres. A wonder and<br />
a challenge, this mighty<br />
African peak.<br />
text Eva de Vries<br />
FORMED OVER three million years<br />
ago, Mount Kenya is an extinct volcano<br />
100km north of Nairobi. The local<br />
Kikuyu tribe farm the fertile volcanic soil<br />
on the lower slopes. They call the mountain<br />
‘Kirinyaga’, meaning ‘place of light<br />
and darkness’. The Kikuyu believe that<br />
this is the earthly throne of god, or ‘Ngai’.<br />
It is considered sacred, and many have<br />
built their houses to face the mountain in<br />
the hope of prosperity.<br />
Visitors travel from near and far to<br />
visit the mountain that gives Kenya its<br />
name. Africa’s second-highest peak – it is<br />
surpassed only by its Tanzanian big<br />
brother, Mount Kilimanjaro. Some come<br />
to experience the wildlife in this most<br />
dramatic of landscapes. With the contours<br />
of Mount Kenya on the horizon, impala,<br />
cheetahs and the rare black rhino can be<br />
spotted on the Laikipia Plateau. Others<br />
head straight for the summit, climbing<br />
their way into the clouds. Reaching Point<br />
Lenana (4,985m), the final destination for<br />
trekkers, is tough and takes at least three<br />
days. To summit the peak at sunrise, the<br />
final ascent begins at 2 a.m. The air is thin<br />
and every step requires effort. But aching<br />
muscles and lungs are instantly forgotten<br />
with the magical views of the rolling<br />
African plains below. For this is nothing<br />
short of the adventure of a lifetime.<br />
The Mount Kenya National Park is located<br />
about 140km from Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta<br />
Airport.
NATURE / 17<br />
Getty Images
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SECOND NGONG AVENUE, UPPER HILL, NAIROBI
Despite their<br />
friendly and slow<br />
appearance, the<br />
hippo is one of the<br />
most dangerous<br />
animals in Africa<br />
and can easily<br />
outrun a human.<br />
Habari<br />
HABARI / 19<br />
The Seychelles are home to<br />
thousands of sea turtles that lay<br />
their eggs on the beaches.<br />
Soulful sound<br />
Grace Barbé<br />
Coming from the kaleidoscopic<br />
Seychelles, the energetic and<br />
beautiful Grace Barbé looks to<br />
traditional slave rhythms and<br />
dances, and fuses these with<br />
rock, Afrobeat, reggae and pop.<br />
She sings in English, Creole<br />
and French and her soulful<br />
music celebrates the diverse<br />
cultural influences of her Indian<br />
Ocean heritage.<br />
Photo 1974 © Howard L. Bingham
20 / HABARI<br />
More than 1,500 languages are<br />
spoken on the African continent<br />
– the greatest linguistic diversity<br />
in the world. English is the most<br />
common language.<br />
Nairobi<br />
Lamu Old Town is the oldest and<br />
best-preserved Swahili settlement<br />
in East Africa.<br />
Have a drink<br />
Zing Bar<br />
Stay happy<br />
Tune Hotel<br />
If James Bond was real, he’d<br />
come to Zing. He’d wear a<br />
crisp white cotton dress shirt,<br />
no tie, and sleeves neatly folded<br />
to his elbow. He’d sit on one of<br />
the swanky yellow seats at the<br />
far end of the bar, near the<br />
large silver mask, his back to<br />
the wall like a true secret agent.<br />
Then he’d sip his martini while<br />
taking in the room, keeping his<br />
hands off the complimentary<br />
From the outside, Tune Hotel<br />
resembles an alien spaceship,<br />
the kind from your favourite<br />
retro sci-fi film. At least at<br />
night. Just launched on<br />
Westland’s Rhapta Road,<br />
this is the international hotel<br />
chain’s first branch in Africa.<br />
The cheery block of red and<br />
grey rises eleven storeys into<br />
the sky. It’s a three-star budget<br />
hotel that doesn’t look budget.<br />
The rooftop bar offers a<br />
beautiful view of Nairobi.<br />
~ tunehotels.com<br />
nuts. He’d choose Zing because<br />
it has that cool retro allure (and<br />
attracts women who go for<br />
suave Bond types). He’d stare<br />
listlessly at the affluent afterwork<br />
herd and finally succumb<br />
and pick a glazed nut. Just one.<br />
~ d2nairobi.com<br />
Quote<br />
“I dwell on<br />
issues that<br />
a lot of artists<br />
will choose<br />
not to address”<br />
− Michael Soi −<br />
Kenyan artist<br />
Once in a while someone (the<br />
Good Earth Group, in this<br />
case) does something phenomenal<br />
in Nairobi. Like<br />
open up a diner that serves<br />
local home-style dishes with a<br />
modern eclectic twist. Think a<br />
bohemian roadside diner with<br />
mama’s stews, Chapati wraps,<br />
craft burgers, hand-cut chips<br />
and homemade BBQ sauces.<br />
Foodie favourite<br />
Nyama Mama<br />
The ambience is Afro-cool,<br />
with exclusively African music<br />
streamed live from bespoke<br />
sound consultancy Music<br />
Concierge. For a spirited<br />
finish, round off with a<br />
Charcoal Manhattan cocktail<br />
made with Bulleit Bourbon.<br />
~ thegoodearthgroup.com/<br />
nyama-mama<br />
Text: Jackson Biko
Africa contains 30 percent of<br />
the world’s minerals: just under<br />
half of the world's diamonds and<br />
one fifth of the world’s gold.<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
HABARI / 21<br />
At the Manta Resort on Zanzibar,<br />
you can sleep in an underwater room<br />
surrounded by fish.<br />
Cultural jubilee<br />
Festac at Forty<br />
Forty years ago, a month-long cultural celebration,<br />
the Second World Black and African Festival of Arts<br />
and Culture in Lagos became the largest pan-African<br />
gathering of its kind, with about 17,000 participants<br />
from at least 57 countries across the continent and<br />
the wider diaspora. Stevie Wonder performed, as did<br />
Gilberto Gil from Brazil, Miriam Makeba of South<br />
Africa and Les Ballets Africains of Guinea. Now the<br />
festival is the stuff of legend, but you can visit the<br />
past via a Facebook archive of the event.<br />
~ facebook.com/festac77archive<br />
Event<br />
Three-day celebration<br />
This year, the Marsabit Lake Turkana Cultural<br />
festival will take place from 4 to 6 May on the<br />
shores of the world’s largest desert lake. The<br />
three-day celebration presents the cultural riches<br />
of fourteen tribes, and the colourful festivities<br />
also serve a deeper purpose: to promote peace and<br />
reconciliation among communities in the region.<br />
~ laketurkanaculturalfestival.com<br />
Q&A<br />
Colour Me Beautiful<br />
Twenty-year-old Kenyan artist Cynthia Nyongesa creates<br />
amazing self-portraits using colourful walls as a background.<br />
She chats with Msafiri about her goals and passion for art.<br />
How did you come up with this idea?<br />
Colours have always been my first love, so I wanted to incorporate<br />
them into my artwork. And I wanted the freedom to create scenes<br />
without a model or professional photography; I think the combination<br />
of self-portraits and colourful walls creates a perfect setting.<br />
What do you want to achieve with your art?<br />
I want people to see the world through my eyes and be inspired by my<br />
imagination. My message is also not to take life too seriously, because<br />
having fun doesn’t stop when you get old.<br />
Where do you see yourself in ten years?<br />
Hopefully I can provide people with opportunities that I never had.<br />
I hope to open up creative centres not only in Nairobi, but also in the<br />
remote corners of Kenya. I want to be part of the amazing wave of<br />
creativity that is emerging in Kenya.<br />
~ theafricanunicorn.com<br />
Text: Eva de Vries
With about 21 million people,<br />
Lagos, Nigeria, is now the<br />
biggest city in Africa after<br />
overtaking Cairo, Egypt.<br />
Gadgets<br />
HABARI / 23<br />
Lake Malawi has the largest number of fish<br />
species in the world – more than 500.<br />
Digital doodahs<br />
Innovate<br />
your Health<br />
1<br />
Know Pressure<br />
Designed specifically for busy people on the<br />
go, this wrist version blood pressure monitor<br />
makes it easy to track your morning and<br />
evening blood pressure and pulse, even when<br />
you’re on a long flight. It also features a touch<br />
screen XXL display, a WHO indicator and<br />
arrhythmia detection.<br />
~ beurer.com US$ 100<br />
2<br />
Untangled Tunes<br />
Don't like how those wires keep getting in the<br />
way? The Red Fox Edge Wireless Headphones,<br />
which slip over or under your ears and connect<br />
around the back of your head are an interesting<br />
new option. Ideal for shorter periods of<br />
listening, up to about two hours, they’re a good<br />
option for the gym, because they’re also easy<br />
to clean if you do get them sweaty.<br />
~ redfoxwireless.com US$ 120<br />
3<br />
Mindful Eating<br />
Have you heard about mindful eating? Some say<br />
that eating too fast, or eating while distracted,<br />
leads to troubles with portion control, difficulty<br />
controlling your weight, and poor digestion and<br />
even gastric reflux. The HAPIfork contains smart<br />
technology that helps you monitor and track<br />
your eating habits. It alerts you with indicator<br />
lights and gentle vibrations, which help you<br />
become more mindful.<br />
~ hapi.com US$ 99<br />
Right on track<br />
Gotta Look Smart<br />
For women who want to track<br />
their steps, calories and elevation,<br />
smart wristbands are all the rage.<br />
But how does one get past the<br />
plastic look of them?<br />
Fitness trackers can help raise your<br />
awareness of your physical activity<br />
throughout the day and encourage you<br />
to make healthy choices. But a plastic<br />
band around your wrist isn’t always the<br />
most fashion-forward accessory. Omron<br />
Healthcare has designed a different<br />
brand of smart wristband: Mira Fitness,<br />
is a range of sleek metal bracelets, in a<br />
variety of colours and sizes (including<br />
petite), so you can track your steps,<br />
calories, distance and elevation, and get<br />
personalised energy boosts throughout<br />
the day, while still feeling fabulous.<br />
1 2<br />
Inspired to buy?<br />
See our Karibu<br />
selection to find<br />
out which items are<br />
available during<br />
your flight.<br />
Text Nina Siegal<br />
~ omronhealthcare.com US$ 169<br />
3
24 / HABARI<br />
With 200 million people<br />
between the ages of 15 and<br />
24, Africa has the youngest<br />
population in the world. Nigeria<br />
is the “youngest country”.<br />
People<br />
Jackson Biko is a well know<br />
writer and blogger in Kenya<br />
~ www.bikozulu.co.ke<br />
Style<br />
Fashion is More Than<br />
Their Passion<br />
Matthew Rugamba<br />
House of Tayo, Rwanda<br />
Matthew Rugamba is the<br />
man behind House of Tayo, a<br />
menswear label most famous<br />
for its striking bow-ties<br />
designed using African<br />
prints. When the 27-year-old<br />
studied in the US, he said<br />
people felt sorry for him<br />
when he said he came from<br />
Rwanda. “I didn’t like that,”<br />
he says.“I wanted to tell the<br />
story of African dignity, that<br />
being Rwandan, and African,<br />
is not something to pity. I tell<br />
this story through design. My<br />
bow ties radiate elegance<br />
and dignity.”<br />
~ houseoftayo.com<br />
Muriuki Kagiri<br />
The Dapper Brother, Kenya<br />
In addition to personal<br />
updates and restaurant tips,<br />
Muriuki Kagiri’s website The<br />
Dapper Brother focuses on<br />
fashion. The Kenyan blogger<br />
and stylist is now one of the<br />
most popular online forces in<br />
male fashion design. He says<br />
he always had a natural eye<br />
for style. “My friends always<br />
came to me for advice,” he<br />
says, “and I used to even get<br />
compliments from strangers.”<br />
~ thedapperbrother.com<br />
Tendai Kamusikiri<br />
Signature Toscie, Zimbabwe<br />
Blogging is not an easy path to choose<br />
in Zimbabwe, but Tendai Kamusikiri<br />
decided to follow her heart. With her<br />
website Signature Toscie (based on<br />
her nickname), she aims to reach the<br />
modern fashion-loving woman:<br />
“Through my blog, I inform people<br />
what’s hot, what’s not and what’s<br />
happening. It helps me to escape from<br />
reality and express my creative ability.”<br />
~ signaturetoscie.co.zw<br />
Jackson Biko<br />
Happy Solitude<br />
I went for a picnic at Nairobi National Park because most<br />
of us – Nairobians – are too important and busy to visit our<br />
national park. Any less, no prophet is ever accepted in his home<br />
town. Take Nairobi National Park, the only one of its kind<br />
within a city but do we appreciate it enough? Nope. During<br />
Easter we just want to sit on high stools in bars and drink<br />
with the same guys with the same haircuts.<br />
Okay, I admit it wasn’t a picnic, as such. It’s not a picnic<br />
if you are alone with just a half-finished bottle of scotch, is it?<br />
Whatever it was, the sky was cloudless, a warm Friday<br />
afternoon. I sat in the rondavel Observation point, high on<br />
a hill overlooking the panorama of the park. I was a bit<br />
miserable, which is okay because a man has to be miserable<br />
sometimes, unless he’s a professional clown. There are over<br />
100 mammal species in the park, but I wasn’t in the mood<br />
to see a lion, or worse a hyena. I went for the solitude.<br />
I drunk from a disposable cup and listened to The Isley<br />
Brothers at very low volume from my phone. I had forgotten to<br />
bring some ice. But hey, I was having a swell time. Things were<br />
going well until a friend called. “Why are you at Nairobi<br />
National Park alone? That’s unlike you!” she said. I replied<br />
defiantly: “There is the me you don’t know. A me that loves<br />
elephant grass and Colobos monkeys.” She snorted. “You are not<br />
trying to commit suicide, Biko, are you?” I laughed. “Yeah, by<br />
doing what. Jumping on the horns of a female gazelle and impaling<br />
myself?”<br />
Then she asked an odd question. “What do you call a female<br />
gazelle?” I said it’s called a gazelle. She insisted there must be a<br />
name for it. I didn’t care if it’s called Lucy or Monica because<br />
she was really eating into my alone time. “I'll call you straight<br />
back,” she said and hung up. Two minutes later she called back,<br />
“It’s called a cow. A female gazelle is called a cow.” I felt<br />
enriched by this new piece of information. I sipped my drink,<br />
and stared at the distant hills. “What do you call a male gazelle<br />
then?” I asked halfheartedly. “A bull,” she said proudly. “A<br />
female elephant is also called a cow, a male elephant is called<br />
a bull”. “Look, we don’t care for these things!” I said with a<br />
little more concern than I liked. “We? Who are we?” She asked.<br />
I sighed and said, “Black people!” Then I hung up.<br />
Illustration: Hana Wieslander
Many scholars believe Africa to<br />
be the “Cradle of Mankind”.<br />
Hominid fossils have been found<br />
across the continent, especially<br />
around the Turkana Basin.<br />
Culture & Sports<br />
HABARI / 25<br />
In South Africa, you can run<br />
a marathon while spotting<br />
the Big Five: Africa’s greatest<br />
wild animals.<br />
On the move<br />
Wellness in Nairobi<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Spinning, yoga or CrossFit... how to choose the best<br />
workout in Nairobi? The Wellbeing Pass offers a<br />
solution without a decision, giving its holders free or<br />
discounted access to top fitness spots, including the<br />
Africa Yoga Project, Premier Rehab Center, Zen<br />
Cycle, Acacia Studio, Crossfit Kwetu and Taut Body.<br />
~ africayogaproject.org/pages/<strong>2017</strong>-wellbeing-pass<br />
Talent<br />
Adrien Niyonshuti<br />
Cyclist Adrien Niyonshuti is one of the optimistic forces of the new<br />
Rwanda. Six of his brothers were killed in the 1994 genocide, but he<br />
survived, and took up cycling as a teenager. While conquering the green<br />
hills, he was able to put his troubles out of his mind, and just enjoyed<br />
the scenery and the physical exercise. Cycling gave him hope. Adrien later<br />
joined the national team and won the Tour of Rwanda twice. He successfully<br />
made it to the South African UCI World Team and competed in<br />
tournaments in and out of Africa. In 2012 and 2016 he represented his<br />
country in the Summer Olympics. Now he has started his own cycling<br />
academy in Rwanda with the motto, “Cycling towards a better future.”<br />
He adds, “I really enjoy teaching the new generation what I have learned<br />
so far.” Folllow Adrien on Twitter: @AD_Niyonshuti87.<br />
Text: Eva de Vries<br />
Gallery<br />
Alluring Art<br />
Housed in a conspicuous red double-storey building,<br />
the Afriart Gallery in Kampala is hard to miss.<br />
This leading contemporary art gallery exhibits an<br />
exquisite selection of Ugandan and African art.<br />
Afriart currently features the work of popular<br />
Kenyan artist Michael Soi, whose paintings provide<br />
satirical commentary on socio-political issues.<br />
~ afriartgallery.org<br />
Quote<br />
“How do you<br />
democratise a<br />
building that wasn’t<br />
designed with<br />
democracy in mind?”<br />
– Mokena Makeka –<br />
South African architect
26 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />
A TASTE OF<br />
THE CAPE<br />
Cape Town is thriving with CREATIVE<br />
ENTREPRENEURSHIP. Two neighbourhoods are taking<br />
the lead in local gastronomy and craftsmanship.<br />
text Jurriaan Teulings<br />
Dana van Leeuwen
Mirjam Bleeker<br />
TRAVEL / 27
28 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />
Previous pages<br />
Left: Beta Beach,<br />
Bakoven<br />
Right: Colourful<br />
Bo-kaap houses<br />
ON A RECENT AFTERNOON at The Gin Bar, a<br />
favourite watering hole in Cape Town, a young entrepreneur<br />
named JP du Toit shares his plan to produce his own brand<br />
of artisanal tonic water. The local micro-distilleries have<br />
been producing such wonderful artisanal gins, he says, that<br />
they shouldn’t mix them with mass-produced tonics.<br />
This is the kind of clever suggestion that you hear a lot<br />
these days in Cape Town. The Mother City has been<br />
fostering her entrepreneurial spirit, especially in areas that<br />
were once rundown, taking advantage of big spaces and low<br />
rents. On the east side of the city centre, the industrial spaces<br />
of Woodstock have been converted into homes for collectives<br />
of designers, restaurateurs, artists and coffee roasteries.<br />
The same thing is happening amid the Victorian houses<br />
of the central business district – locally known as the CBD –<br />
where, out of the settling dust from construction and<br />
renovation projects, a new, thriving heart of restaurant and<br />
nightlife has emerged.<br />
The Gin Bar is “hidden” in a courtyard behind the<br />
storefront of Honest Chocolate, a small artisanal chocolate<br />
company. Inside, the men are sporting neat beards as effortlessly<br />
as the women wear grandma cardigans. The menu<br />
sticks to four expertly-crafted cocktails, named Heart, Head,<br />
Soul and Ambition – the four elements of Cape Town’s<br />
current success.<br />
There are two dedicated gin bars within Cape Town’s<br />
DBD. The other, named Mother’s Ruin, stocks 150 kinds of<br />
gin, 15 of which are South African. In most cases, this<br />
means they are infused with aromatic herbs unique to the<br />
southwestern tip of Africa growing as nearby as Table<br />
Mountain. These infusions are working so well they might<br />
just be the reason why the juniper spirit has taken such a<br />
strong foothold in Cape Town.<br />
RESTAURANT STRIP<br />
The fastest, and most recent, developments in the CBD<br />
have been around Bree Street, a seventeen-block stretch<br />
which, in the past few years, has emerged as a new hotspot in<br />
the city’s bar and restaurant scene. Up and down the street<br />
are new hipster hangouts. Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room (at<br />
no. 133) boasts fresh oysters from South Africa’s West Coast<br />
along with a menu of American-styled comfort food, while<br />
across the street, Charango Grill and ><br />
“Hidden behind an artisanal chocolate company<br />
is The Gin Bar’s courtyard terrace”<br />
Contemporary African<br />
art has a new home<br />
ZEITZ MOCAA<br />
The year <strong>2017</strong> is set to become a<br />
very exciting one for Cape Town, as<br />
the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary<br />
Art Africa is scheduled to open in<br />
September. Named after German<br />
art collector and businessman<br />
Jochen Zeitz (who will be<br />
providing its founding collection),<br />
it is set to become the world’s<br />
largest museum dedicated to<br />
contemporary African art: stretching<br />
over 9,500 square meters, spread<br />
over nine floors of a former grain<br />
silo complex at the V&A Waterfront.<br />
The grain elevator on top of the<br />
museum will be converted into a<br />
luxury hotel, simply named The Silo.<br />
zeitzmocaa.museum<br />
Above (top): The Gin Bar;<br />
Cape To Cuba restaurant;<br />
Kalk Bay parking<br />
Opposite page (clockwise<br />
from top left): Bean There<br />
coffee bar in central<br />
Cape Town;<br />
Outside The Old Biscuit<br />
Mill in Woodstock;<br />
Urban wall art;<br />
Street view De Waterkant<br />
Left page: The Gin Bar, Dana van Leeuwen<br />
Right page: Barbara Groen, Mirjam Bleeker (bottom left)
TRAVEL / 29
30 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />
“Quiet and secluded,<br />
Beta Beach is one<br />
of the city’s best-kept<br />
secrets”<br />
Dana van Leeuwen
Barbara Groen<br />
TRAVEL / 31
32 / TRAVEL / Cape Town
TRAVEL / 33<br />
Previous pages<br />
Left: Access to Beta Beach,<br />
Bakoven<br />
Right: All-day breakfast at<br />
Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room<br />
Right: The Test<br />
Kitchen appetiser<br />
Far right: A spot of<br />
shade outside<br />
The Old Biscuit Mill<br />
Left page (clockwise from<br />
top left): Fresh coffee; bright<br />
Bo-Kaap homes; Saturday<br />
food market at The Old<br />
Biscuit Mill; Bicycle Café<br />
Left page (clockwise from top left): Dana van Leeuwen, Mirjam Bleeker, Mirjam Bleeker, Dana van Leeuwen<br />
Right page: The Test Kitchen (left), Dana van Leeuwen (right)<br />
Bar (at no. 114) pulls in the crowds with Peruvian ceviche and<br />
fresh fish tacos.<br />
On the corner of Heritage Square, Love Thy Neighbour<br />
(at 110 Bree St.) pairs its own craft beers with Mediterranean<br />
meze, grill and souvlaki dishes. A few doors down, the popular<br />
Tapas for 2 set menu at Chefs Warehouse and Canteen (at no.<br />
92) changes daily, with highlights such as tender venison with<br />
rainbow carrots, and Asian duck broth with a kick of chilli.<br />
At the far southwestern end, two adjacent restaurants,<br />
Culture Club Cheese (at no. 215) and Bacon on Bree (at no.<br />
217), dedicate themselves to the finest artery-clogging<br />
indulgences. Caprese toasties, croque monsieurs and triple<br />
cheese omelettes on one side; BLTs, bacon croissants and<br />
bacon-laden Caesar salads on the other.<br />
COOL COLLECTIVE<br />
Just a ten-minute taxi ride from Bree Street, the industrial<br />
neighbourhood of Woodstock used to be rather rundown and<br />
unsafe. But in the two decades since the birth of the<br />
Rainbow Nation under Nelson Mandela, many trendy<br />
boutiques, restaurants, design shops and lofts have appeared,<br />
making it the most happening place to visit outside the CBD.<br />
The first big attraction of the neighbourhood was a cool<br />
collective of creative businesses, coffee bars and art galleries<br />
located in a former cookie factory – now simply known as The<br />
Old Biscuit Mill. Today, it has developed into a major draw<br />
for both locals and visitors. Espresso Lab microroasters brews<br />
single origin-beans from the highlands of Kenya and<br />
Ethiopia, while ceramics studio Imiso, whose designs draw<br />
inspiration from Picasso as well as African scarring traditions,<br />
is an excellent stop for souvenir hunters.<br />
FOODIE DELIGHTS<br />
Across a busy courtyard, chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ The<br />
Test Kitchen has received a string of awards and accolades,<br />
most notably the title of Restaurant of the Year by EatOut,<br />
Africa’s leading restaurant guide, every year since 2012. True<br />
to the restaurant’s name, Dale-Roberts’ creativity roams free<br />
in any direction, combining uniquely South African culinary<br />
traditions with those of Asia – think liquorice-cured Wagyu<br />
biltong (the latter being a spiced dried meat similar to beef<br />
jerky) and twelve-hour smoked trout tartare.<br />
While The Test Kitchen needs to be booked a few weeks<br />
ahead, local foodies find solace in the weekly Neighborgoods<br />
artisanal food market held next to the Mill. Every Saturday, it<br />
offers a plethora of foreign delicacies from Syrian shawarma ><br />
“New trendy boutiques, design shops, restaurants<br />
and lofts make this a happening place to visit”<br />
Where to stay<br />
Cape Heritage Hotel<br />
If you’d like to stay right in the centre of the hustle and bustle<br />
of Bree Street in Cape Town’s fashionable Heritage Square,<br />
this restored 18th-century boutique hotel offers bedrooms<br />
and suites, each with their own unique character and design,<br />
lovely dining and lounge areas, a rooftop hot tub and a<br />
central courtyard shaded by the oldest fruit-bearing grapevine<br />
in South Africa. Room rates start at around 2,100 rand for a<br />
standard double and go up to about 10,500 rand for a twobedroom<br />
executive apartment.<br />
90 Bree Street, capeheritage.co.za<br />
Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel<br />
If you’ve ever wanted to sleep in a vintage Airstream Trailer<br />
(those sleek 1950s chrome caravans) the four-star Grand<br />
Daddy Boutique Hotel has outfitted seven of them with beds<br />
and working kitchens as urban hideaways on its rooftop. The<br />
hotel also has ordinary brick-and-mortar room and suites, all<br />
with flatscreen TVs and air conditioning. There’s something<br />
of a hip, party atmosphere at this CBD hotel, with the outdoor<br />
Pink Flamingo cinema on the roof, and two cocktail bars.<br />
Standard rooms go for about 2,895 rand a night and the<br />
Airstream Trailers cost 4,295 rand per night.<br />
38 Long Street, granddaddy.co.za<br />
Cape Town Lodge Hotel<br />
A less pricey option (starting at 1,070 rand) within walking<br />
distance of Bree Street is the Cape Town Lodge Hotel and<br />
Conference Center, with 123 rooms as well as self-catering<br />
apartments (or lofts) in an urban tower with views on Table<br />
Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. A preferred option for<br />
business travellers and conference events, offering corporate<br />
rates and internet access, the hotel also boasts amenities<br />
for relaxing: a rooftop terrace with outdoor swimming pool,<br />
indoor gym, buffet-style dining and funky, colourful décor in<br />
the reception and lobby.<br />
101 Buitengracht Street, capetownlodge.co.za
34 / TRAVEL / Cape Town<br />
Left (clockwise<br />
from top left):<br />
Sidewalk Cafe in<br />
Vredehoek; Imiso<br />
ceramics in Woodstock;<br />
Industrial heritage<br />
Right: Bakoven,<br />
towards Hout Bay<br />
“Woodstock’s former warehouses,<br />
foundries and factories have followed the<br />
example of The Old Biscuit Mill”<br />
Seaside dining in Paternoster<br />
Just east of Cape Town, the wineries and restaurants<br />
of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch represent the<br />
best of South African gastronomy. In recent years,<br />
however, a lesser known foodie-hotspot has been<br />
taking shape in Paternoster, a little fishing village<br />
up the West Coast. Here, well-known chefs such as<br />
Reuben Riff and Jaco Kruger have been opening or<br />
taking over restaurants (Reuben’s at Abalone House<br />
and Gaaitjie, respectively). The most innovative of<br />
the bunch, however, is chef Kobus van der Merwe,<br />
whose Wolfgat is highly acclaimed. His hyperlocal<br />
strandveld cuisine is named after herbs and<br />
succulents foraged from the beach, and inspired by<br />
South African cooking traditions.<br />
GAAITJIE<br />
Off Sampson Street, Paternoster<br />
gaaitjie.co.za<br />
REUBEN’S AT ABALONE HOUSE<br />
3 Kriedoring Street, Paternoster<br />
abalonehouse.co.za<br />
WOLFGAT<br />
10 Sampson Street, Paternoster<br />
wolfgat.co.za<br />
and Argentinian empanadas to Dutch poffertjes or Valencian<br />
paella. It is also a great place to stock up on local organic<br />
produce, wines and craft beers.<br />
UP-AND-COMING TALENT<br />
Many of Woodstock’s former warehouses, foundries and<br />
decommissioned factories have followed the example of The<br />
Old Biscuit Mill, and most of them are located along Albert<br />
Road, the neighbourhood’s main commercial thoroughfare.<br />
A few minutes’ walk away from The Old Biscuit Mill, for<br />
example, a large warehouse has been converted into a co-op<br />
for emerging artisans and fashion designers. Named the<br />
Threads Project, it is the brainchild of Greg Swanepoel, a<br />
clothing wholesaler who decided to share his three decades’<br />
worth of expertise in the industry with up-and-coming talent.<br />
By sharing a space, and the associated logistics of running<br />
a small business, the project allows young entrepreneurs to<br />
spend more time and energy on simply being creative, and less<br />
on the everyday drudgery of accounting or managing their<br />
e-commerce. Everyone rents their own space in the building,<br />
and the range of products on offer is as eclectic as it could be:<br />
from art prints and bright bikinis to environmentally-friendly<br />
cork handbags, bamboo socks and hand-drawn illustrations.<br />
The majority of it is made and designed in Cape Town.<br />
Closer to the city centre, the store fronts along Albert<br />
Road start to look a lot more polished. Furniture showrooms<br />
are no longer limited to local artwork, but also display pricey<br />
Dutch and Danish design furniture.<br />
It’s hardly surprising when Swanepoel laments that<br />
property prices in Woodstock are soaring. “Now that this<br />
part of town has reached a certain point of maturity and<br />
saturation, we’re noticing a swing back to the city centre<br />
again,” he says, referring to Bree Street and the rest of the<br />
CBD. It seems that the two most happening districts of Cape<br />
Town are settling on a hipness-equilibrium.<br />
➔<br />
Plan your trip<br />
Enjoy two great African destinations in a single trip. Flights are now<br />
available from Nairobi to Cape Town via Livingstone, Zambia, and as<br />
of May 1 also via Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Flights depart from both<br />
destinations three times a week. Book these or other flights to Cape<br />
Town on kenya-airways.com.<br />
Left page: Mirjam Bleeker, Imiso (top right) Right page: Dana van Leeuwen
TRAVEL / 35<br />
“The views along<br />
the Atlantic Seaboard<br />
are priceless”
36 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />
Synergies<br />
in Sound<br />
At Coke Studio Africa the MOST TALENTED<br />
names from across the continent come together<br />
to take their music to a whole NEW LEVEL<br />
of COOL. Meet five of our continent’s mash-up<br />
music stars.<br />
text Eva de Vries photos Coke Studio Africa<br />
Reggae & Dancehall Star<br />
Stonebwoy<br />
Name:<br />
Livingstone Etse Satekla<br />
Born:<br />
5 March 1988, Ghana<br />
Hometown:<br />
Ashaiman, Ghana<br />
Music genre:<br />
Reggae, dancehall<br />
Popular songs:<br />
“Go Higher”, “People Dey”<br />
Coke Studio collaboration:<br />
with Haile Roots (Ethiopia)<br />
Follow him:<br />
@stonebwoyb (Twitter, Instagram)<br />
HIS FULL NAME is Livingstone Etse Satekla,<br />
but as a boy, his father used to call him Stone. During<br />
his first radio performance, the presenter announced<br />
him with the words: “We have one Stone Boy here.”<br />
The name stuck, although the spelling changed.<br />
Stonebwoy is a man of many talents. He is a multifaceted<br />
rapper who raps in many languages, but he is<br />
most famous for burning up the music charts and<br />
clubs with his reggae and dancehall music.<br />
Stonebwoy is the first son in a family of seven and<br />
grew up singing. Ghana fell in love with his crisp<br />
sound and catchy songs. He saw his invitation to be<br />
part of Coke Studio Africa as a great opportunity to<br />
work together with Haile Roots, and to travel. “The<br />
project brought me to Kenya for the first time,”<br />
Stonebwoy says with a smile. “I hope to be able to<br />
visit the game parks.”<br />
One of his major achievements is winning the<br />
Black Entertainment Television (BET) Award for Best<br />
International Act in 2015. “I couldn’t believe it when<br />
I heard my name,” Stonebwoy recalls. “But apparently,<br />
things went rather well. Many people voted for me, so<br />
they really wanted me to win.” That same year, his<br />
second album, Necessary Evil, was the recipient of<br />
three Ghana Music Awards.<br />
Like many songwriters, Stonebwoy uses his own<br />
life and experiences as his major inspiration for his<br />
lyrics. “I want every song to tell a story, even when it<br />
is just a fun song,” he says. “Good lyrics ‘tickle’ the<br />
mind. Writing song lyrics keeps me sharp and helps<br />
me grow. We singers are literally the voice of the<br />
people. I will keep making good music and addressing<br />
important issues.”
“Life is my<br />
inspiration.<br />
Everything<br />
that happens<br />
in life is my<br />
teacher”<br />
PEOPLE / 37
38 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />
Queen of Afro-Soul<br />
Dela<br />
Name:<br />
Adeline Maranga<br />
Born:<br />
20 February 1989, Kenya<br />
Home town:<br />
Nairobi, Kenya<br />
Music genre:<br />
Afro-soul<br />
Popular songs:<br />
“Mafeelings”, “Weche Tek”<br />
Coke Studio collaboration:<br />
with Patoranking (Nigeria) and Vanessa<br />
Mdee (Tanzania)<br />
Follow her:<br />
@delamuziki (Twitter)<br />
“I want to do what I love:<br />
sing and perform”<br />
“HELLO NI MIMI”, Dela’s Swahili cover of Adele’s<br />
international hit “Hello” is goosebump-inducing. This<br />
beautiful singer’s irresistible voice and expressive vocals are<br />
made to be played on repeat. Dela, who has been compared to<br />
American singer Alicia Keys, sings Afro-soul creatively infused<br />
with reggae, funk and techno. Not only has her music taken<br />
her all over Africa, she has also toured Europe with sold-out<br />
concerts in Stockholm, Amsterdam and London.<br />
Dela has been moving to the rhythm of music her whole<br />
life. “It all started when I was very young,” she says. “My sister<br />
and I used to sing songs for visitors, and afterwards my uncles<br />
gave us money to buy candy.”<br />
After joining church choirs and school bands, she decided<br />
to go solo. “Music is my life,” she says. “It gives me joy,<br />
happiness and so much fulfillment.” Her song lyrics are<br />
inspired by everyday experiences from her own life and from<br />
the lives of people she knows. “Love, social issues, the good<br />
and the bad, basically what I see going on around me,” she<br />
says. But her number-one inspiration is her mother: “She is the<br />
strongest woman I know. She can literally do anything.”<br />
Performing with Coke Studio brought Dela’s music to a<br />
higher level and she enjoys working with artists from other<br />
African countries. “This platform brings Africa together<br />
through music,” she says. “It is an excellent way to explore the<br />
continent’s different sounds and share them with the rest of<br />
the world.”<br />
Through her music, Dela hopes to inspire young people.<br />
“I want to encourage the youth to follow their dreams,” she<br />
says. “If you really want something in life, you need to do your<br />
best and go for it.”
PEOPLE / 39<br />
King of Rap<br />
E.L.<br />
Name:<br />
Elom Adablah<br />
Born:<br />
28 June 1983, Ghana<br />
Hometown:<br />
New Jersey, US<br />
Music genre:<br />
Rap<br />
Popular songs:<br />
“Shelele”, “Koko”, “One Ghana”<br />
Coke Studio collaboration:<br />
with Jaguar (Kenya) and DJ Maphorisa<br />
(South Africa)<br />
Follow him:<br />
@ELrepGH (Twitter, Instagram)<br />
“I don’t look up to anyone. Instead,<br />
I have people who challenge me”<br />
WITH HIS BACKWARDS BASEBALL CAP, sunglasses<br />
and bling, Elom Adablah, also known as E.L, looks every inch the<br />
typical rap star. But this multiple award-winning rapper is more<br />
substance than style: he is also a music producer (known for tunes<br />
like “Shelele” and “One Ghana”), a sound engineer, a writer of<br />
movie scores and president of the record label to which he is<br />
signed, BBnZ Live.<br />
Since earning a name for himself in Ghana as the “King of<br />
Rap,” he has been determined to take the international stage,<br />
and he has already performed in Nigeria, South Africa, the US<br />
and Britain.<br />
As a young boy, E.L had other dreams. “I wanted to be a<br />
pilot. Flying was what I desperately wanted to do,” he says. But<br />
one day, his father brought home a piano and he decided he<br />
wanted to become a musician. “Hearing the magical sound that<br />
came out of that instrument was life changing.” He went to<br />
university to study political science, but he couldn’t forget his<br />
true passion. “I just had to follow my heart,” he says.<br />
Faced with a competitive and often harsh music scene, it<br />
wasn’t easy for E.L to get to where he is today. He is very proud<br />
of his accomplishments so far.<br />
“The road I have taken − the lessons, the prizes, but also the<br />
scars − have made me the man I am today,” he says. Now E.L<br />
would like to become a mentor for other African artists. “I want<br />
to help them to get international audiences, as well as the<br />
recognition and appreciation that they deserve,” he says. As for<br />
the rapper himself, he has an interest in fashion and broadcasting,<br />
but will continue doing what he loves most. “I can’t say I’ll be<br />
jumping on stage when I’m 60, but I’ll still be creative and will<br />
keep developing my skills as a musician.”
40 / PEOPLE / Music Stars<br />
Rising Voice<br />
Lydia<br />
Jazmine<br />
Name:<br />
Lydia Jazmine<br />
Born:<br />
27 July 1991, Uganda<br />
Hometown:<br />
Kampala, Uganda<br />
Music genre:<br />
Dancehall<br />
Popular songs:<br />
“Guno Omukwano”, “Tondekangawo”<br />
Coke Studio collaboration:<br />
with Kiss Daniel (Nigeria) and Bahati (Kenya)<br />
Follow her:<br />
@lydiajazmine (Instagram)<br />
“I want to carry African music to all<br />
corners of the world”<br />
HER NAME IS LYDIA JAZMINE and she is being hailed<br />
as “the finest dancehall musician in Uganda”. This sparkling<br />
gem from the Pearl of Africa clearly loves making music. From<br />
calm love songs to wild, danceable records, she sings from the<br />
heart in Luganda as well as in English. With her colourful<br />
dresses, sporty short haircuts and big earrings, she stands out<br />
from a crowd.<br />
When Jazmine was in primary school, she was part of a<br />
girl band. “We used to imitate the Spice Girls and TLC during<br />
talent shows,” she says. She already knew that this was what she<br />
wanted to do. “Music is a talent I am blessed with,” she says<br />
confidently, but with reason. She grew up leading a church choir,<br />
participating in school music competitions around the country<br />
and watching lots of music videos.<br />
“I will be representing Uganda on Coke Studio, along with<br />
the biggest talents on the continent. It is my first international<br />
gig. A dream will come true,” she wrote on her Facebook page.<br />
She didn’t have to think twice about accepting the offer. “No<br />
serious artist can turn down such an opportunity.”<br />
As a young musician trying to make her way to the top,<br />
Jazmine also faces challenges, particularly finding ways to overcome<br />
the cost of producing music. Recording, shooting videos,<br />
promotion: it all costs money. Another challenge of a career in<br />
the spotlight is the rumours that are sometimes spread by<br />
the media.<br />
“These stories weaken our fan base because some people<br />
believe everything they read,” she says. But the strong and<br />
persistent Jazmine is no quitter. She stays devoted to her<br />
passion and is determined to achieve her dreams, “I want to<br />
carry African music to all corners of the world,” she says.
PEOPLE / 41<br />
Dancehall Duo<br />
Navy<br />
Kenzo<br />
Names:<br />
Aika Marealle & Emmanuel Mkono (Nahreel)<br />
Born:<br />
Aika: 19 February (year not given), Tanzania<br />
Nahreel: 12 December 1989, Tanzania<br />
Hometown:<br />
Dar es Salaam, Tanzania<br />
Music genre:<br />
Rap, hip-hop, dancehall<br />
Popular songs:<br />
“Kamatia”, “Chelewa”<br />
Coke Studio collaboration:<br />
with Dama do Bling (Mozambique)<br />
Follow them:<br />
@NavyKenzo (Twitter),<br />
@navykenzoofficial (Instagram)<br />
“Music is happiness, expression and<br />
freedom. A language that connects”<br />
“Local bongo-style hip-hop is especially popular in Tanzania,<br />
but we wanted to try something unique,” says Emmanuel Mkono,<br />
who goes by the stage name Nahreel, and is one half of the dancehall<br />
duo Navy Kenzo. “Nobody had ever done this type of music<br />
before, so we decided to jump in.” Making dancehall music with<br />
song lyrics fusing Swahili and English has proved to be a hit combination<br />
in both Tanzania and neighbouring countries. The music<br />
video for their club hit “Kamatia” has had two-and-a-half million<br />
views, and is officially the biggest song in East Africa to date.<br />
After meeting in India as students in 2008, Nahreel and Aika<br />
Marealle returned to their homeland in 2011 and joined the hiphop<br />
group Pah One (of the popular single “I Wanna Get Paid”),<br />
but they left and formed Navy Kenzo two years later. Marealle<br />
says that her earliest inspiration came from Beyoncé, even though<br />
she didn’t always understand her English lyrics. “I used to sing her<br />
songs and try out her dance moves at school talent shows,” she<br />
says. Nahreel’s introduction to music came from his father, who<br />
brough home a piano one day, surprising his ecstatic son. “Music<br />
means happiness and freedom to me,” he says. “It’s a powerful<br />
language that connects people all over the world.”<br />
Navy Kenzo participated in the Coke Studio Africa shows<br />
because they said “the world needs to hear the African beats”.<br />
“It was great to compose new songs with artists from other<br />
countries,” says Nahreel. “It reminded me how creative we are<br />
as people and that there really are no limits to music.”<br />
Watch Coke Studio Africa’s mash-ups on www.coca-cola.co.ke/cokestudio, YouTube or<br />
download the mobile app. Kenya Airways actively supports cultural exchange within the<br />
African continent and beyond, especially for the youth. Kenya Airways has supported Coke<br />
Studio since 2015, and flew all artists to their Coke Studio performance in Nairobi.
42 / BUSINESS / Beer<br />
HERITAGE<br />
IN A<br />
BOTTLE<br />
TUSKER BEER is not just a beer – it’s a<br />
national emblem. Brewed in Kenya with local<br />
ingredients for almost a century, STIRS PRIDE<br />
in Kenyans like few other things.<br />
“Tasting a Tusker is like tasting Kenya itself.”<br />
text Nils Elzenga and Nina Siegal<br />
Getty Images
BUSINESS / 43<br />
WHEN KENYANS go abroad,<br />
there is one thing they rarely forget to<br />
pack: their Tusker T-shirt. Sporting the<br />
iconic image of a silhouetted elephant<br />
head on a yellow background, the<br />
logo has remained largely unchanged<br />
throughout the beer's history.<br />
“Wherever I go, people always<br />
recognise it,” says Justin Wachira, a<br />
Nairobi-based film editor who travels<br />
regularly for work. “Wearing it is a great<br />
way to make friends.” On a recent trip to<br />
Uganda, where Tusker enjoys a growing<br />
popularity, he mentioned that he was<br />
Kenyan at a bar and “people reacted<br />
with ‘Ah, Tusker!’”<br />
East Africa’s largest selling beer is<br />
not just an emblem for Kenya; Tusker is<br />
a brand that, for many who drink it and<br />
work for the company, represents a<br />
proud heritage of perseverance through<br />
hardship, good sportsmanship and<br />
nation building.<br />
In his book, “Hops and Glory: One<br />
man’s search for the beer that built the<br />
British Empire,” British beer historian<br />
Pete Brown reflects on the fact that<br />
Tusker seems to resonate with Kenyans<br />
as part of their national identity. “It’s<br />
more than just a beer; it’s a symbol of<br />
the country, a source of national pride,”<br />
writes Brown. “When the ads come on<br />
the TV in a pub it’s not unknown for<br />
everyone to stand up and sing along<br />
with a patriotic jingle, arms slammed<br />
across chests in respectful salute.”<br />
WHAT’S IN A NAME?<br />
But what is it that makes this lager<br />
more than just a beer, but part of the<br />
Kenyan heritage?<br />
The history of Tusker is linked to the<br />
very early development of the nation. It<br />
begins, somewhat circuitously, with a<br />
railway that came to be known later as<br />
the Lunatic Line. In the late 19th century,<br />
the British Empire wanted a quick route<br />
through East Africa to Lake Victoria, the<br />
source of the Nile. The plan was to build<br />
a railway from Mombasa on the Indian<br />
Ocean all the way across southwestern<br />
Kenya to Uganda, but the line was<br />
considered a terrible idea by many,<br />
and after many mishaps, the project<br />
collapsed in 1900 – a lucky turn for the<br />
continent’s indigenous cultures and<br />
wildlife. The British government had<br />
lost millions in the process, and was<br />
seeking a way to recover its losses by<br />
encouraging Brits to settle and invest in<br />
the country. That was what brought the<br />
brothers George and Charles Hurst to<br />
Kenya; experienced brewers, farmers<br />
and gold prospectors, they set up their<br />
own brewery in 1922 and registered it<br />
as Kenya Breweries. They made the beer<br />
using local hops and yeast, brewed in a<br />
few copper vessels heated by firewood<br />
and bottled by hand.<br />
They delivered their first cases of<br />
beer to the Stanley Hotel in Nairobi,<br />
where it reportedly met with mixed<br />
reactions. The following year, 1923,<br />
George Hurst, an avid hunter who had<br />
once been mauled by a lion, embarked<br />
on an elephant hunting expedition.<br />
Instead of returning home with the<br />
anticipated bounty, he was trampled<br />
Historic Tuskers<br />
Kenya Breweries Ltd. was formally incorporated as a private company in<br />
1922, with headquarters in Nairobi, and the first beer was brewed on 14<br />
December. Later, it would become East African Breweries Ltd.<br />
and killed by a bad-tempered male<br />
elephant, also known as a tusker.<br />
Charles continued to run the family<br />
brewery on his own, and decided to<br />
name their first lager Tusker, in honour<br />
of his brother. Although the first<br />
batches of beer hadn’t met with much<br />
enthusiasm, he continued to explore ways<br />
to improve its recipe and production<br />
processes. In 1929, the company started<br />
using local malted barley instead of<br />
imported malt extracts, significantly<br />
enhancing Tusker's flavour, and the<br />
lager was officially launched the<br />
following year.<br />
LOCAL INGREDIENTS<br />
Tusker’s flavour is uniquely Kenyan.<br />
Its hand-selected barley derives from<br />
the Narok plains in the southern<br />
Rift Valley and the water used in every<br />
bottle comes from spring water collected<br />
in the Aberdare Mountains. The yeast<br />
used in every bottle comes from a<br />
long-term strain that’s bespoke to Tusker.<br />
Even as Tusker has grown into a<br />
popular international brand, sold in the<br />
US, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan and<br />
India, it still produces all its beer in<br />
Kenya. Most beers that have a global<br />
market are brewed under license in<br />
countries nearer to where their product ><br />
“Using local hops and yeast,<br />
they brewed the beer in a few copper vessels<br />
heated by firewood and bottled by hand”
44 / BUSINESS / Beer<br />
TUSKER THROUGH<br />
THE YEARS<br />
1922 Brothers George and Charles<br />
Hurst found Kenya Breweries Limited.<br />
“Beers that are only<br />
produced in their native<br />
headquarters are few<br />
and far between”<br />
1936 Kenya Breweries merges with<br />
Tanganyika Breweries to form East<br />
African Breweries Limited (EABL).<br />
1938 EABL wins its first prize in an<br />
international competition.<br />
1954 EABL is listed in the Nairobi<br />
Securities Exchange.<br />
is sold, says Richard Smeek, deputy<br />
chairman of the advertising agency<br />
BBDO EMEA, which handles the<br />
Tusker account, but Tusker is one of<br />
the few that sells strictly by export<br />
(Guinness, which is only brewed in<br />
Ireland, is another).<br />
“Beers that are only produced in<br />
their native headquarters are few and<br />
far between,” says Smeek. The lager is<br />
filtered, carbonated and bottled before<br />
being distributed by truck, train, boat<br />
and plane to all corners of the globe,<br />
through distribution partners in South<br />
Sudan, Burundi, the Democratic<br />
Republic of Congo and Rwanda.<br />
By keeping production in Africa, the<br />
East African Brewing Limited, formerly<br />
Kenya Breweries, is contributing to<br />
the local economy, employing more<br />
than 1,500 East Africans, and indirectly<br />
creating more than 2 million jobs in<br />
the region.<br />
Beer aficionados like Brad John-<br />
Davis, the general manager at Nairobi &<br />
Arusha Urban Adventures, appreciate<br />
the taste most of all. He calls it “our”<br />
lager ‒ though he is in no way involved in<br />
its production, and describes it on his<br />
blog: “The light grain flavours with a<br />
mild, underlying sweetness give way to<br />
a hoppy bitterness at the finish.”<br />
MY COUNTRY, MY BEER<br />
Because of Tusker’s long history in<br />
Kenya and its connection to its land,<br />
people and water, it’s easy for Kenyans<br />
to regard it as part of their cultural<br />
heritage, and the company’s marketing<br />
strategy has long reflected that sense of<br />
pride. In the 1990s, when South African<br />
Castle breweries began to expand into<br />
the East African market, Tusker<br />
mounted a campaign using the slogan<br />
Bia Yangu, Nchi Yangu, Swahili for<br />
Alamy<br />
Olympic gold<br />
In 1968, when Kenyan track and field legend<br />
Kipchoge Keino represented his country in<br />
the Tokyo Olympic Games, he was sponsored<br />
by Tusker. Keino won two gold and two silver<br />
Olympic medals, and is now chairman of the<br />
Kenyan Olympic Committee and board member<br />
of the International Olympic Committee. in<br />
2016 Tusker became the official sponsor of<br />
the Kenyan Olympic Team, which did the nation<br />
proud in Rio. Tusker also founded its own<br />
football club: Tusker FC, the current Kenyan<br />
Premier League champion and holder of the<br />
national GOTV Shield Cup.<br />
“My country, my beer”, coined by Judy<br />
Kibinge, the first non-expat creative<br />
director at McCann Erickson. The campaign<br />
was successful, ultimately forcing<br />
Castle out of the Kenyan market; East<br />
African Brewing also agreed to leave<br />
the Tanzanian market to Castle. Its<br />
TV commercial, a panoramic journey<br />
following Tusker all over the country<br />
with a background jingle by Kenya’s<br />
renowned Muungano National Choir,<br />
became the country's most popular<br />
advertisement.<br />
At age 95, Tusker continues to hold<br />
30 percent of the Kenyan beer market,<br />
making it the country’s most popular<br />
beer. East African Breweries reported<br />
more than US$100 million in profit in<br />
2016. The brand continues to see itself<br />
as integral to the nation, and to the<br />
sense of Kenyan pride. “For me Tusker<br />
has always been a brand that doesn’t<br />
just compete in Africa, but also holds<br />
its own on the world stage,” says Peter<br />
Brown. “That has always been the root<br />
of the pride Kenyans have for it, because<br />
it’s what they aspire to themselves.”<br />
1960 The first Africans, J.M.<br />
Muchura and J. Thuo, join the EABL<br />
board of directors.<br />
1969 Football Club Tusker FC is<br />
founded, and later becomes the<br />
third-most-successful football club in<br />
Kenyan history, winning the Kenyan<br />
Premier League 11 times to date.<br />
1997 KBL installs an ultra-modern<br />
bottling line at its Nairobi-based<br />
Tusker Brewery.<br />
2000 Diageo, a global leader in<br />
beverage alcohol, acquires majority<br />
stake in EABL.<br />
2002 EABL signs licence<br />
agreements with South African<br />
Breweries.<br />
2005 EABL becomes the first East<br />
African company to reach US$1 billion<br />
in value.<br />
2008 UK supermarket chain Tesco<br />
starts selling Tusker, and is soon<br />
followed by Sainsbury’s.<br />
Tusker Beer is available on all<br />
international flights operated<br />
by Kenya Airways.
KQ / 45
46 / BUSINESS / Country at a Glance<br />
At a glance<br />
Tanzania<br />
Did you Have know a closer that look it boasts at the potential 30 species of of Tanzania. monkeys?<br />
These most FACTS relevant AND FACTS FIGURES AND FIGURES, explore<br />
the nation’s touristic natural attractions resources, and social economy trend and of today. attractions.<br />
Text text Desiree Hoving Infographics infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />
Sources: Focus Economics, February <strong>2017</strong>, Tan zania Tourist Board<br />
Sources: Focus Economics, February <strong>2017</strong>, Tan zania Tourist Board<br />
Official name: United Republic<br />
of of Tanzania<br />
Population:<br />
48.6 million people<br />
GPD:<br />
US$25,2 million<br />
Capital:<br />
Dodoma<br />
Currency:<br />
Tanzanian Shilling<br />
Local time:<br />
GMT+3<br />
Neighbouring<br />
countries:<br />
Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda,<br />
1000 km km<br />
Burundi, the Democratic Republic<br />
of of the Congo, Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique<br />
Languages:<br />
Swahili, English and a a number of of individual<br />
languages<br />
Flights:<br />
Kenya Airways flies five times a a day to to Dar es es Salaam<br />
and Kilimanjaro, and eight times a a week to to Zanzibar<br />
GDP divided<br />
in in sectors<br />
Mining<br />
Agriculture<br />
Public<br />
admini-<br />
194<br />
stration<br />
316<br />
1,154<br />
6,6%<br />
Mount Kilimanjaro<br />
Highest mountain in in Africa<br />
(5,895 m above sea level)<br />
and largest free-standing<br />
mountain in in the world; a a<br />
major climbing destination.<br />
National<br />
parks<br />
Almost 38 38 percent<br />
of of the country<br />
is is protected<br />
area, one of of the<br />
world’s highest<br />
percentages.<br />
Crater<br />
The Ngorongoro<br />
Crater is is the largest<br />
intact ancient caldera<br />
in in the world, nearly<br />
3,000,000 years old.<br />
Serengeti<br />
National Park<br />
One of of the ten natural<br />
wonders of of the world,<br />
because of of the largest<br />
overland mammal migration.<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Several islands in in the<br />
Indian Ocean with white<br />
sand beaches and<br />
coral, ideal for for diving<br />
and snorkling.<br />
385<br />
6,4%<br />
Source: Statista.com<br />
Source: Statista.com<br />
Manufacturing<br />
5,1%<br />
’10 ’10 ’12 ’12 ’14 ’14 ’16 ’16 ’18 ’18 ’20 ’20<br />
GDP growth compared to to the the<br />
previous year in in Tanzania<br />
(in (in percentages)<br />
580<br />
x x 11 million US$<br />
Construction<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
Largest city and commercial capital with a a large port.<br />
Sources: Lonely Planet, Tanzania Tourist Board<br />
Sources: Lonely Planet, Tanzania Tourist Board
BUSINESS / 47<br />
Tanzania is is the evolutionary cradle of of primate diversity. It It is is home to to<br />
more than 30 30 species of of monkeys, apes and prosimians –– the<br />
primitive ancestors of of modern primates. The thirteen most common<br />
groups of of primates and the year they were first documented.<br />
3. 3. Dwarf<br />
2. 2. Lesser<br />
galagos<br />
galagos<br />
1833<br />
1796<br />
1. 1. Greater<br />
galagos<br />
1859<br />
5. 5. Patas monkey<br />
1897<br />
Most imported and exported goods expressed in in US US dollar amount<br />
Import<br />
Other medicaments<br />
Spelt, common<br />
Telegraph<br />
of of mixed or or unmixed<br />
wheat and meslin<br />
apparatus<br />
products<br />
222<br />
148<br />
300<br />
130 130<br />
amounts x 1 x 1 million US$<br />
Road<br />
tractors<br />
4. 4. Arboreal<br />
guenons<br />
1758<br />
6. 6. Savannah monkeys<br />
1870<br />
9. 9. Baboonmangabeys<br />
1903<br />
Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net<br />
Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net Sources: Lonely Planet, Researchgate.net<br />
10. 10.<br />
Kipunji<br />
2006<br />
8. 8. Drill-mangabeys<br />
1812<br />
7. 7. Baboons<br />
1777<br />
13. 13. Chimpanzees 1816<br />
11. 11. Blackand-white<br />
and red red colobus<br />
colobus,<br />
monkeys<br />
1811<br />
1887<br />
Tanzania is is a a popular honeymoon destination.<br />
Many hotels in in Zanzibar, along the<br />
coast and the northern safari<br />
2<br />
1<br />
circuit offer suites and<br />
private candlelit<br />
Lake Victoria is is<br />
dinners.<br />
Africa’s largest<br />
freshwater lake.<br />
12. 12. Olive colobus<br />
It’s It’s inhabited by by<br />
3<br />
some of of the<br />
world’s largest<br />
Freddie<br />
tilapia and sport<br />
Mercury,<br />
fishing is is<br />
the lead vocalist<br />
flourishing.<br />
of of the British band<br />
‘Queen’ is is a a Tanzanian<br />
by by birth and was born<br />
in in Zanzibar, in in<br />
Stone Town.<br />
4<br />
Tanzania is is<br />
home to to<br />
about<br />
120 tribal<br />
(mostly small)<br />
groups,<br />
Tanzania is is<br />
one of of Africa’s<br />
5<br />
most stable<br />
countries.<br />
In In June<br />
the annual<br />
Bulabo Dance Festival<br />
is is held at at the Sukuma<br />
Museum. The Sukuma is is Tanzania’s<br />
largest ethnic group, with nearly<br />
15 15 percent of of the country’s population.<br />
Precious metal<br />
ores and<br />
concentrates<br />
Television<br />
receivers including<br />
video monitors<br />
Petroleum oils<br />
7,328<br />
Tanzania<br />
Gold<br />
1,430<br />
459<br />
262<br />
351<br />
251<br />
Export<br />
Cashew nuts<br />
Brans, sharps<br />
and other residues<br />
of of wheat<br />
Sources: wits.worldbank.org (WITS)<br />
Sources: wits.worldbank.org (WITS)
Getty Images<br />
48 / TREND / Innovation
TREND / 49<br />
Hub<br />
Hub<br />
Hooray<br />
Technology entrepreneurs<br />
working within the LEADING<br />
TECH HUBS in Kenya,<br />
South Africa and Nigeria are<br />
illuminating the path for an<br />
booming industry.<br />
text Eromo Egbejule<br />
WHEN BILLIONAIRE Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg<br />
first visited Africa in August 2016, he said that he was awed by<br />
the innovation spaces and dynamic local tech start-up culture<br />
that he experienced in Kenya and Nigeria. Two months earlier,<br />
his Chan Zuckerberg Initiative had financed its first-ever technology<br />
venture in Africa with a US$ 24 million investment in<br />
Andela, the Nigerian start-up that connects rookie programmers<br />
with clients around the world.<br />
During his trip he also visited Nairobi to break bread with<br />
the local entrepreneurs, to learn about mobile money, and to<br />
check on Bridge International Academies, a low-cost private<br />
school chain financially backed by Zuckerberg and Bill Gates.<br />
A 2015 Disrupt Africa report calculated that 125 start-ups<br />
across the continent had raised funds to the tune of US$ 185.7<br />
million that same year. Kenyan, Nigerian and South African<br />
start-ups in particular were thriving, and had already secured<br />
several rounds of funding. This trio received the lion’s share of<br />
2015’s start-up investments: 36 percent to companies in South<br />
Africa, 24 percent to Nigeria and 14 percent to Kenya.<br />
INNOVATIVE THINKING<br />
Young entrepreneurs are at the core of these success stories.<br />
They are emerging from the African tech hotspots known in<br />
domestic circles as Yaba Right/Yabacon Valley (in Nigeria),<br />
Silicon Savannah (in Kenya) and Silicon Cape (in South Africa).<br />
“These hubs provide real ecosystems for young people to<br />
hang out with their peers, and to work through ideas for apps<br />
and services,” says Toby Shapshak, the Johannesburg-based<br />
editor of Stuff magazine and one of South Africa’s most<br />
recognised tech bloggers. “The internet connections are decent,<br />
and they can experience the kind of work environment that<br />
fosters innovative thinking.” >
50 / TREND / Innovation<br />
Shutterstock<br />
One factor contributing to the dynamic energy of these<br />
hubs is the abundance of raw talent and the high rate of<br />
adaptability of African youth to new technologies. Unlike<br />
their counterparts in other continents who have been able to<br />
plug into a well-oiled system of technology development, the<br />
African start-up culture provides entrepreneurs with fertile<br />
ground for home-grown solutions to the many problems<br />
plaguing their compatriots.<br />
KENYAN CREATIVITY<br />
Today, the African landscape is dotted with more than 300<br />
incubator hubs according to GSMA’s Ecosystem Accelerator,<br />
the global telecoms industry body. Half of these hubs are<br />
concentrated in five countries: Kenya, South Africa, Nigeria,<br />
Morocco and Egypt. Nigeria’s CcHub, Kenya’s iHub, South<br />
Africa’s JoziHub and Silicon Cape are considered the leading<br />
hotbeds of innovation, breeding grounds for Africa’s<br />
technology revolution.<br />
The iHub space in Kenya was established in 2010 by some<br />
of the most prominent members of the nation’s tech community,<br />
Erik Hersman, Juliana Rotich and Ory Okolloh. In less than<br />
seven years, this innovation hub has nurtured more than 170<br />
initiatives from the ground up, including the e-learning start-up<br />
Eneza Education, one of Africa’s most widely-used mobile<br />
education platforms.<br />
“The tech world of Nairobi in 2010 was very different from<br />
what it is today,” says Hersman, iHub’s founder. “There were<br />
only a handful of start-ups, and the surface of what we could<br />
do if we worked together hadn’t been scratched.”<br />
As iHub began to grow in stature, it attracted funding and<br />
endorsements from the Omidyar Network, a philanthropic<br />
investment firm, and mobile operators like Safaricom.<br />
“These hubs provide<br />
real ecosystems for<br />
young people to hang out<br />
with their peers,<br />
and to work through ideas<br />
for apps and services”<br />
– Toby Shapshak –<br />
Magazine editor & innovation expert<br />
Kenyan start-ups to watch<br />
• Mawingu – Provides internet connectivity for<br />
rural Kenya using solar-powered Wi-Fi routers.<br />
• M-Farm – Helps small and medium-scale farmers<br />
determine market rates using mobile phones.<br />
• Ushahidi – Open source platform used to monitor<br />
election violence and to crowdsource disaster data.
TREND / 51<br />
More recently, Eric Schmidt connected to Googe and<br />
Yahoo’s Marissa Mayer visited the country, and the emergence<br />
of high-profile Kenyan investors last year offered another<br />
massive boost.<br />
INCUBATOR HUBS IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />
The Omidyar Network, backed by Google and propelled<br />
by the Praekelt Foundation, was also involved in the launch<br />
of the JoziHub, a co-creation space focused on sustainable<br />
change, in Johannesburg in 2013. Also in South Africa is the<br />
world-class Innovation Hub set up by the Gauteng provincial<br />
government in 2001. This “science park” was launched to<br />
stimulate the overall advancement of science and technology,<br />
and is the only accredited facility of its kind in sub-Saharan<br />
Africa, with major companies such as the mLab start-up<br />
accelerator programme.<br />
NIGERIAN PARTNERSHIPS<br />
In 2010, Bosun Tijani and Femi Longe, two Nigerians who<br />
had studied overseas, joined forces to build the Co-creation<br />
Hub (CcHub), Nigeria’s first open living lab and pre-incubation<br />
space, which has since acquired cult status.<br />
After managing to broker a deal that effectively turned<br />
their office street into a fibre optic-powered information superhighway,<br />
CcHub has gone on to secure partnership and funding<br />
from the Lagos state government and organisations like Indigo<br />
Trust and the Omidyar Network.<br />
“We’ve seen people come with just an ordinary idea, and<br />
watched them build a proper income-generating organisation,”<br />
says Tijani. CcHub has functioned as an incubator space to<br />
some of the most popular Nigerian tech companies, which it<br />
discovers at its regular hackathons.<br />
One of them is BudgIT, which was discussed by Bill Gates<br />
in a Nelson Mandela Memorial Lecture last year. This organisation<br />
facilitates societal change in Nigeria by helping to simplify<br />
government budgets and ensure fiscal transparency. It was<br />
founded in 2011 by Oluseun Onigbinde, a former banker<br />
who was fed up with the government’s financial secrecy.<br />
CcHub provided them with 5,000 BPS in seed money to<br />
start the venture, and since then the start-up has secured<br />
funding from other sources, such as Nigerian billionaire<br />
banker and philanthropist Tony Elumelu. Onigbinde met his<br />
co-founder Joseph Agunbiade at a hackathon CcHub<br />
organised, and participated in a mentorship there that he<br />
says was “instrumental to our growth.”<br />
314<br />
Number of tech hubs and incubation<br />
centres across Africa according to the<br />
GSMA Ecosystem Accelerator<br />
93<br />
African cities hosting<br />
tech hubs<br />
170<br />
Start-ups nurtured by iHub,<br />
the continent’s most popular hub<br />
20<br />
Events each month run by iHub<br />
2001<br />
The year the first sub-Saharan Africa hub<br />
was established in Pretoria<br />
54<br />
Hubs located in South Africa,<br />
the highest concentration in Africa<br />
ENTREPRENEURIAL ENERGY<br />
Africa’s budding tech industry and its young entrepreneurs<br />
continue to flourish despite the challenges of a complex<br />
political environment, coupled with funding shortages and<br />
sustainability concerns. But tech hubs like iHub are proving<br />
that alternative sources of funding can be available, and such<br />
investments can have a long-term impact.<br />
“Sustainability is important for any business, especially<br />
tech hubs,” stresses Shapshak. “CEOs of other hubs should<br />
look at replicating this successful model.”<br />
Zuckerberg was impressed with what he saw during his<br />
Lagos trip. “What is striking is the entrepreneurial energy,”<br />
he said at the time. “I think when you’re trying to build<br />
something, what matters the most is who wants it the most.<br />
This is where the future is going to be built.”<br />
Juliana Rotich at the iHub Technology<br />
Innovation center in Nairobi.<br />
Getty Images
Get Noticed<br />
Connecting Africa to the World<br />
To advertise in Msafiri, contact: Rose Kagori, Mediaedge Interactive Ltd<br />
Tel: +254 0723140187 / 0734271488 Email: <strong>msafiri</strong>@mediaedgeke.com wwww.redhousegroupke.com
Tips / BUSINESS / 53<br />
How to<br />
Manage<br />
Your Work-Life<br />
Balance<br />
Struggling to stay focused?<br />
Finding the right COMFORT<br />
ZONE between the office and<br />
home boosts productivity and<br />
improves wellbeing.<br />
text Joanne Wienen illustrations Edith Carron<br />
1<br />
Take time off (even when busy)<br />
A recent study from Harvard Business<br />
Review showed that managers in countries<br />
with more paid time off get more done. In<br />
other words: spending less time at your<br />
desk means wasting less time there. Even a<br />
quick stroll outside can make a difference,<br />
research by Julie McCarthy from the<br />
University of Toronto Scarborough found.<br />
2<br />
Try shorter workdays<br />
For years, we’ve been told that an<br />
eight-hour workday is optimal, but last<br />
year in Sweden companies experimented<br />
with cutting daily hours down to six.<br />
Some companies have already reported<br />
greater productivity, improved employee<br />
health and reduced absenteeism.<br />
3<br />
Let go of perfection<br />
There is nothing wrong with having<br />
high standards, but sometimes good is<br />
good enough. Getting things done can<br />
be more important than getting things<br />
perfect. So instead of striving for the<br />
impossible, set realistic goals and<br />
celebrate daily achievements.<br />
4<br />
Work smarter<br />
The Pareto principle states that 80<br />
percent of your results are achieved in<br />
20 percent of your time. Figure out what<br />
that 20 percent looks like (and the<br />
actions required to get there) and you’ll<br />
spend more time doing what really<br />
drives you towards your goals.<br />
While we’re<br />
on the subject…<br />
These titles (available to<br />
buy online) offer inspiration.<br />
Rice University professor<br />
Scott Sonenshein reveals<br />
why less is more when it<br />
comes to business and life<br />
in Stretch: Unlock The Power<br />
of Less − and Achieve More<br />
Than You Ever Imagined<br />
(Harper Business, <strong>2017</strong>).<br />
The design thinking that’s<br />
responsible for amazing<br />
products and architecture<br />
can also be applied to your<br />
career and life. Bill Burnett<br />
and Dave Evans tell you how<br />
in their book Designing Your<br />
Life: How to Build a Well-<br />
Lived, Joyful Life<br />
(Knopf, 2016).<br />
Bestselling author Charles<br />
Duhigg shows that it is<br />
more important to manage<br />
how you think than what<br />
you think. Smarter Faster<br />
Better: The Secrets of<br />
Being Productive in Life and<br />
Business (Random House<br />
Trade Paperbacks, <strong>2017</strong>).
Tips / BUSINESS / 55<br />
How to<br />
Stay Fit<br />
on Long<br />
Flights<br />
Hopping from one time zone<br />
to another can take a toll<br />
on mind and body. Here’s<br />
how to STAY AT THE TOP<br />
of your game, up in the sky.<br />
text Joanne Wienen illustrations Edith Carron<br />
1<br />
Adopt the new time zone<br />
If possible, start going to sleep earlier<br />
(or later, depending on the destination) a<br />
few days before departure. This minimises<br />
the effects of jet lag upon arrival. After<br />
take-off start thinking ahead. If it’s daytime<br />
at your destination, resist reclining<br />
and choose to work instead. Should you<br />
be sleeping? Then give the laptop or smartphone<br />
a miss.<br />
2<br />
Allow yourself time to adjust<br />
Tiredness decreases productivity and<br />
increases stress levels. Instead of heading<br />
from the airport straight to a meeting, try<br />
arriving a day early to give yourself a<br />
chance to acclimatise before getting<br />
down to work.<br />
3<br />
Sleep smart<br />
Can’t avoid arriving on the morning<br />
of your meeting? Then remember: a little<br />
sleep is better than none. Power naps can<br />
reduce the negative effects of jet lag. But<br />
don’t overdo it: keep naps to under 25<br />
minutes. After that REM sleep kicks in,<br />
increasing the risk of feeling groggy.<br />
4<br />
A little help<br />
Having trouble nodding off? Try<br />
melatonin, a natural supplement that<br />
helps regulate your sleep cycle. Take it<br />
after dark on the day you travel and for<br />
a few days afterwards to drift off at a<br />
decent hour and get your body onto local<br />
time quickly.<br />
Read all about it<br />
These titles (available<br />
online) offer inspiration.<br />
Drawing on research from the<br />
Wharton School of Business,<br />
Mario Moussa, Madeline<br />
Boyer and Derek Newberry<br />
reveal how to deliver results<br />
under tough work conditions<br />
in Committed Teams: Three<br />
Steps to Inspiring Passion<br />
and Performance (Wiley,<br />
2016).<br />
As CEO of many companies,<br />
South African entrepreneur<br />
Elon Musk practically lives<br />
on airplanes. Get inspired<br />
by Ashlee Vance’s biography<br />
Elon Musk: How the<br />
Billionaire CEO of SpaceX<br />
and Tesla is Shaping our<br />
Future (Virgin Books, 2016).<br />
Find out how to stay sharp<br />
during long-haul flights (and<br />
other practical life lessons)<br />
in Tools of Titans: The<br />
Tactics, Routines, and Habits<br />
of Billionaires, Icons, and<br />
World-Class Performers by<br />
Tim Ferriss (Houghton Mifflin<br />
Harcourt, 2016).
56 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3
TRAVEL / 57<br />
8<br />
Ways<br />
to Indulge<br />
in Dubai<br />
WITH THE WORLD’S tallest building,<br />
biggest shopping mall, underwater suites<br />
and million-dollar yachts, it is clear that<br />
the UAE doesn’t do things by halves.<br />
And neither should you.<br />
text Lucy Thackray photography LaPeet<br />
4<br />
5<br />
1<br />
Arrive on a Friday<br />
Considering a long weekend? It’s worth knowing that Dubai’s<br />
weekend runs from Friday to Saturday. Arrive on a Friday morning<br />
to acclimatise before the workforce’s biggest event: brunch. This is a<br />
millionaire’s interpretation of “breakfast meets lunch”: meals cost<br />
around 450 AED (US $120) a head, and involve countless tiers of<br />
sushi, fruit, barbecued skewers and patisserie cakes stacked artfully<br />
around ice sculptures and chocolate fountains. Eating is soundtracked<br />
by live music and fuelled by regularly topped-up champagne. Join in<br />
the fun at the most glamorous hotels: two of the most opulent brunches<br />
are at Jumeirah Al Qasr’s Arboretum and Le Royal Meridien’s Maya<br />
restaurants (the latter includes pool and beach access afterwards). Clinking<br />
champagne flutes with the city’s most successful executives will get you<br />
firmly on Dubai time, and into the groove of the glittering social scene.
58 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />
2<br />
Take the world’s fastest lift<br />
It’ll whoosh you at a dizzying speed to the top of the Burj Khalifa,<br />
the planet’s tallest building and an impressive piece of architecture<br />
even from ground level. Rising out of glossy Downtown (the business<br />
and shopping district) it pierces the aquamarine, desert-hazy sky like a<br />
mirage, sculpted like a futuristic rocket ship and glinting with smug<br />
satisfaction. From its 125th-floor observation deck, the city’s other highrise<br />
rooftops look Lego small, and a vast teal lake below displays the<br />
cog-shaped jets of the impressive Dubai Fountain. After your heady trip<br />
to the top, grab lunch at laid-back café Social House (on the edge of The<br />
Dubai Mall, near the Burj’s exit), as the Vegas-style water show leaps into<br />
action in front of you, twisting in a choreographed dance to classical,<br />
pop or Arabic music.<br />
3<br />
Flex your credit card<br />
Whether you consider yourself a shopping fan or not, Dubai’s malls<br />
are a sight to be seen. The Mall of the Emirates has an enormous,<br />
snow-loaded ski slope, complete with penguins, but it’s little more than<br />
a gimmick. If you have an eye for style, The Dubai Mall is the only one<br />
that matters. With 500,000 square metres of shops, this polished monochrome<br />
behemoth has everything from high couture (head to Fashion<br />
Avenue for Prada, Gucci and co.) to vivid Arabian creations (spot the<br />
bejewelled ballgowns and crystal-clad wedding dresses). Hire an electric<br />
car to whizz around faster, and don’t worry about getting lost − it’s<br />
inevitable. Just use the electronic maps on the black pillars in the hallways<br />
to find your way out.<br />
4<br />
Bash the dunes<br />
If the city’s flashy designer circuit starts to cloy, one of the best<br />
things about Dubai is that you can be out in proper, rust-red desert<br />
in around 40 minutes. There are two main ways to do it: take a desert<br />
safari day trip to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, or book an<br />
overnight stay in a desert camp hotel. Day trips are all fairly similar, but<br />
established company Platinum Heritage is dedicated to preserving the<br />
desert, and offers a choice of itineraries to suit your group. You may<br />
want to try “dune bashing” (letting the air out of your 4x4’s tyres and<br />
plunging down the sand dunes), though it’s not for everyone. Other highlights<br />
include watching a falcon display as the sun sets, or taking a more<br />
sedate drive around a nature trail, to see the native oryx and other local<br />
creatures. You can even be chauffeured in a vintage 1960s Land Rover for<br />
that true explorer feel. For a real Lawrence of Arabia experience, you<br />
want to wake up to see the shifting russet dunes stretching to the horizon.<br />
Book a room at the Bedouin-styled Bab Al Shams, or a super-luxury<br />
desert lodge at five-star Al Maha.<br />
5<br />
Take off in a chopper<br />
There are a handful of cities in the world where a helicopter ride is<br />
worth the extravagance, and, along with New York and Rio,<br />
Dubai is one of them. You’ll take off from The Palm Jumeirah, the<br />
donut-shaped, man-made extension of the coast, and skim over the<br />
azure, silk-smooth waters of the Gulf, gawping at The World, the artificial<br />
islands shaped like an atlas (some “countries” more<br />
complete than others). Then you’ll zoom back over land, past the sailshaped<br />
Burj Al Arab (the world’s first “seven star” hotel) and towards the<br />
tiara of towers that make up Downtown to see the Burj Khalifa from<br />
above, not to mention the scattered works-in-progress being assembled<br />
by monster cranes. It’s a thrilling look at how this flash city experiment is<br />
still being carved out between expansive desert and water. Nervous about<br />
taking to the skies? A speedboat ride is just as fun, as you roar past the<br />
palatial Atlantis hotel and Burj Al Arab with the sea-spray in your hair.<br />
Previous page: 1. Burj Khalifa 2. Water taxi across Dubai Creek 3. Bridge from Dubai<br />
Mall to Souk Al Bahar 4. Jumeirah Beach 5. Around Jumeirah Beach<br />
Right: 1. Burj Al Arab Hotel 2. Bur Dubai neigbourhood 3. Desert safari 4. Wafi Mall<br />
5. Dubai skyline 6. Helicopter flight<br />
“Dine from a magic<br />
carpet, piled high<br />
with spiced stews,<br />
clove-scented rice,<br />
fresh, floury<br />
flatbreads and<br />
date-syrupy dough<br />
balls”<br />
EAT & DRINK<br />
Arboretum Brunch at Jumeirah<br />
Al Qasr hotel<br />
Al Sufouh Road; jumeirah.com<br />
Mas Mas Maya brunch at Le Royal<br />
Meridien Beach Resort & Spa<br />
Al Sufouh Road; maya-dubai.com<br />
Nikki Beach Dubai<br />
Pearl Jumeirah; nikkibeach.com<br />
RIVA Beach Club<br />
Palm Jumeirah; riva-beach.com<br />
STAY<br />
Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf Hotel<br />
Al Sufouh Road; jumeirah.com<br />
Fairmont The Palm Hotel<br />
Palm Jumeirah; fairmont.com<br />
Ritz-Carlton, Dubai<br />
Jumeirah Beach Residence Walk;<br />
ritzcarlton.com<br />
SHOP<br />
Dubai Mall<br />
Financial Centre Road, Downtown;<br />
thedubaimall.com<br />
RELAX<br />
Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa<br />
Adjacent to Al Qudra Road;<br />
meydanhotels.com<br />
Talise Ottoman Spa<br />
Jumeirah Zabeel Saray Hotel;<br />
jumeirah.com<br />
Guerlain Spa at One&Only The Palm<br />
Palm Jumeirah;<br />
thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com<br />
Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa<br />
Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve;<br />
al-maha.com
TRAVEL / 59<br />
1<br />
2 2<br />
3<br />
4 5 6<br />
Shutterstock
60 / TRAVEL / Dubai<br />
1<br />
2 3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6
TRAVEL / 61<br />
LOOK & SEE<br />
Burj Khalifa<br />
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard;<br />
burjkhalifa.ae<br />
The Dubai Fountain<br />
Below the Burj Khalifa;<br />
burjkhalifa.ae<br />
the-dubai-fountain.aspx<br />
Helicopter tours<br />
Fly High Dubai; from Atlantis helipad.<br />
Book through getyourguide.com<br />
The Majlis Gallery<br />
Al Musalla Roundabout; themajlisgallery.com<br />
Al Marmoum Camel Racetrack<br />
Al-Ain-Dubai Road;<br />
visitdubai.com<br />
Platinum Heritage tours<br />
Pick-up from your hotel included;<br />
platinum-heritage.com<br />
The Sheikh Mohammed Centre<br />
for Cultural Understanding<br />
Al Musalla Road; cultures.ae<br />
Social House<br />
Lower Ground Floor, The Dubai Mall;<br />
thedubaimall.com<br />
Speedboat tours<br />
The Yellow Boats; Dubai Marina;<br />
theyellowboats.com<br />
Thirst quencher<br />
Alcohol is restricted to licensed hotels and<br />
restaurants in Dubai, but if you enjoy spirits,<br />
you can certainly find them. Popular local<br />
destinations for a cocktail include a number<br />
of sky-high options, such as the lounge at<br />
At.Mosphere, located on the 122nd floor of<br />
Burj Khalifa, 442 metres off the ground (book<br />
ahead), and SkyView Bar in the Burj Al Arab.<br />
As its name suggests, Trader Vic’s Mai-Tai<br />
Lounge has an extensive menu of fun, colourful<br />
cocktails, including some virgin options.<br />
Inside the Raffles Dubai, find the minimalist<br />
Crossroads Cocktail Bar, which serves the<br />
Raffles Singapore Sling, as well as its own<br />
signature local version, the Dubai Sling.<br />
6<br />
Take some time out<br />
You’ve been up and down, out in the wild sands and over the water.<br />
But don’t forget to stay still. One of the chief reasons to visit Dubai<br />
is the guaranteed sunshine, and the locals have created dozens of lush<br />
oases where you can bask in it. Your hotel likely has a vast pool with<br />
plush loungers (the most serene include The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai, Fairmont<br />
The Palm and Dar Al Masyaf) but if not, splash out on a day at a<br />
beach club. RIVA, on the Palm, has sieved-sugar sand and a laid-back<br />
pizza bar, while Nikki Beach in Jumeirah has a St Tropez-meets-Miami<br />
vibe. If the sun’s fiercer than you like it, slip away into one of the city’s<br />
tranquil, oud-scented spas: Jumeirah hotels’ Talise Ottoman Spa is an<br />
award-winning, polished marble haven, while One&Only The Palm has<br />
the technical expertise at its unique Guerlain spa.<br />
7<br />
Discover the city’s roots<br />
Before there were oil, hotels and conference centres in these parts,<br />
there were Emirati tribes. You’re not likely to meet a native Emirati<br />
out and about here (and most of the service workforce has emigrated<br />
from India, Pakistan and the Philippines), but if you’re curious about the<br />
UAE’s identity and history in the Middle East, the best place to learn<br />
more is The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding.<br />
Here, visitors cluster in a traditional Emirati house, in Bastakiya, the<br />
oldest part of town, to sip Arabic coffee and eat dates in a traditional<br />
Arabic dining room, chatting with UAE locals. Nasif and his young,<br />
welcoming team answer your questions, and nothing is off limits. You<br />
can ask about marriage customs, Islamic rituals, clothes, food or how<br />
young Emiratis spend their free time, and you’ll get a witty and wellinformed<br />
answer. Book in for the cultural brunch to add on an hour’s<br />
dining from a magic carpet, piled high with spiced stews, clove-scented<br />
rice, fresh, floury flatbreads and date-syrupy dough balls. It’s one of<br />
Dubai’s best-kept secrets: the finest Middle Eastern feast in town.<br />
8<br />
Do it for free<br />
Despite all the glitz, there is still plenty to do in Dubai without<br />
putting you out of pocket. Don’t miss the Old Town: get a taxi to<br />
the historical quarter of Bastakiya, where you can wander around safely<br />
and see the old-style Emirati houses and their sandstone “wind towers”.<br />
Then turn left at Dubai Creek, following the water down to the Textile<br />
Souk to soak in the colour and atmosphere. If you have US$0,25 handy,<br />
jump aboard one of the sputtering abra water taxis to cross the Creek.<br />
Follow the crowds of shoppers and you’ll find mosques, shops, and the<br />
winding Spice, Gold and Perfume souks.<br />
Those in an active mood can join local expats in a morning jog along<br />
Kite Beach, a public stretch of Jumeirah Beach with a great view of the<br />
Burj Khalifa, plus food and smoothie/juice stalls. Then take in some local<br />
art and painted landscapes at The Majlis Gallery in Bastakiya. Expect<br />
lots of Middle Eastern-inspired works, and a shady courtyard to cool off<br />
in. Or, why not cheer on some hump-backed heroes at a camel race?<br />
Dubai takes this historic sport very seriously (the Sheikh owns several<br />
high-value camels). The best places to stroll and people-watch in the<br />
tourist centre are Dubai Marina (for cutting-edge skyscrapers and<br />
mega-yachts) and JBR Walk (for juice and coffee bars, shops and a<br />
white-sand public beach).<br />
Getting There<br />
Kenya Airways flies direct from Nairobi to Dubai,<br />
twice daily. The flight takes just over five hours.<br />
Visit kenya-airways.com.<br />
1. Mosque entrance 2. Palm Monorail 3. Khan Murjan Restaurant 4. Wafi Mall<br />
5 & 6. In & around Bur Dubai, Al Bastakiya
Quiz / TRAVEL / 63<br />
Guess<br />
and Win<br />
We give you five clues about a<br />
KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />
Which country are we referring to?<br />
Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />
or Twitter using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz,<br />
and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />
1<br />
Almost 1,000 SPECIES OF BUTTERFLIES, such as the<br />
beautiful salamis parhassus (“forest mother-of-pearl”), inhabit<br />
this country. The country also has a butterfly FOREST AND<br />
SANCTUARY that is renowned among scientists.<br />
2<br />
After starring in the American TV series The Wire and Luther,<br />
and Hollywood blockbusters Prometheus and Star Trek Beyond,<br />
actor IDRIS ELBA has become a household name. He was born<br />
in England, but HIS PROUD MOTHER hails from this country.<br />
3<br />
The Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2012 collection boasted<br />
COLOURFUL wax-technique patterns that are so typical for this<br />
country. American singers Beyoncé and Gwen Stefani also can’t<br />
get enough of attire adorned with PRINTS CREATED HERE.<br />
Getty Images, The Africa Image Library, Shutterstock<br />
4<br />
An athlete from this tropical nation represented his country at the<br />
Vancouver WINTER OLYMPICS in 2010, the first time the country<br />
had ever participated. Alpine skier, Kwame Nkrumah-Acheampong,<br />
a.ka. “snow leopard,” competed in the MEN’S SLALOM.<br />
5<br />
The TYPICAL CUISINE of this country includes waakye spicy<br />
cooked rice and beans, usually served with stewed fish or meat,<br />
and kelewele, a popular side dish made from spicy fried plantains.<br />
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz. Each month, Kenya Airways wil pick a winner<br />
and surprise them with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.
64 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
Getty Images
WILDLIFE / 65<br />
SAFE FROM<br />
HARM<br />
Across Kenya, specialist centres are providing<br />
SAFE HAVENS FOR WILDLIFE to<br />
overcome the trauma of civil war, poaching<br />
and revenge attacks. The ultimate aim is to get<br />
animals back into the wild, where they belong.<br />
It’s all down to hope and hard work.<br />
text Ivy Wairimu
66 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
Getty Images<br />
WHAT DO actresses Lupita<br />
Nyong’o, Demi Lovato and Kristin<br />
Davis have in common? Elephant selfies<br />
− or rather“elfies” − they captured at<br />
the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in<br />
Nairobi. At this world-renowned<br />
elephant orphanage, the baby elephants<br />
are the real celebrities. For an hour each<br />
day, the public can visit the nursery to<br />
watch orphaned baby elephants, boisterously<br />
charge towards their keepers, who<br />
wield enormous bottles of milk.<br />
Few things can be more delightful<br />
than witnessing elephants, varying in<br />
size from a St. Bernard dag to a Volkswagen<br />
Beetle, trooping in from nearby<br />
bushes for their midday feed. Visitors<br />
from every corner of the world have the<br />
unique experience of watching the<br />
orphanage’s playful wards wallow in<br />
mud holes and occasionally pass within<br />
petting distance of a rope barrier separating<br />
them from their human audience.<br />
RESCUE AND REFUGE<br />
Wildlife protection is ingrained in<br />
the fabric of Kenya’s nationhood, predating<br />
the country’s independence. As<br />
early as 1899 the British colonial<br />
government took deliberate steps to<br />
conserve wildlife through enforcing<br />
hunting restrictions and creating game<br />
reserves to protect wildlife habitats. In<br />
Kenya’s post-independence years, a<br />
number of wildlife sanctuaries and<br />
orphanages were founded that still offer<br />
rehabilitation, rescue and refuge. In the<br />
face of increasingly sophisticated and<br />
lethal wildlife crime, habitat loss and<br />
growing rates of human/animal conflict,<br />
the work of these organisations is more<br />
critical than ever.<br />
The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust<br />
is among the most prominent of these<br />
initiatives, and encouraging the public to<br />
witness the work that is done there helps<br />
raise awareness of the importance of<br />
protecting all wildlife.<br />
Rob Brandford, the Trust’s executive<br />
director, calls the daily visiting hour “an<br />
incredible tool in helping to shape hearts<br />
and minds,” echoing the sentiments of<br />
Edwin Lusichi, the nursery’s head keeper,<br />
who hopes that, if nothing else, guests<br />
leave with appreciation of the idea that<br />
elephants and all other wildlife deserve<br />
to live unharmed.<br />
Established in 1977 by Dr. Dame<br />
Daphne Sheldrick in honour of her late<br />
husband, Tsavo East National Park<br />
founding warden David Sheldrick, the<br />
Trust has its headquarters in Nairobi<br />
National Park. This is also where the<br />
elephant nursery is located. At time of<br />
writing this nursery is home to 25 baby<br />
elephants orphaned due to a number of<br />
factors: poachers who kill for the ivory<br />
trade; revenge attacks by communities<br />
when elephants venture into their farms or<br />
destroy their crops; or accidental lethal<br />
falls of elephants down water wells.<br />
WATCHING THEM PLAY<br />
Once rescued, the baby elephants are<br />
hand-reared by their keepers and fed a<br />
special milk formula perfected over the<br />
years by Dame Daphne. At the age of<br />
three, most of the elephants are ready<br />
to “graduate” from the nursery to one<br />
of three reintegration units in the wider<br />
Tsavo conservation area. The process
WILDLIFE / 67<br />
“Wildlife protection<br />
is ingrained in the<br />
fabric of Kenya’s<br />
nationhood”<br />
ANP<br />
can take as long as five years before the<br />
elephants are ready to integrate fully<br />
with the wild Tsavo herds and to live<br />
independently of their keepers.<br />
Keeper Peter Mbulu shares his own<br />
immense joy that goes along with seeing<br />
the orphans flourish. “Going out to<br />
rescue the babies, walking them to the<br />
park and watching them play − it’s such<br />
an amazing feeling,” he says. “It really<br />
feels like my mission is accomplished<br />
when they graduate.”<br />
To date, the orphan elephant<br />
rehabilitation project has reintegrated<br />
200 orphaned elephants, as well as<br />
14 orphaned rhinos into the wild. For<br />
milk-dependent elephants to function<br />
by themselves in the wild is no mean<br />
feat. The keepers, through their love for<br />
the animals, are very careful to select<br />
which elephants are ready to succeed on<br />
their own. “It has come with patience,<br />
knowledge and following the elephants’<br />
lead,” says Brandford. “Without Dame<br />
Daphne’s perseverance and strength,<br />
the Trust would not be where it is<br />
today.”<br />
HERDING INSTINCT<br />
However, not all of the efforts<br />
to reintegrate animals into the wild<br />
succeed. Different species pose<br />
different challenges in the process.<br />
Elephants are highly sentient and<br />
have a herding instinct that makes<br />
them more likely to take in young<br />
orphans, but this is not the case for<br />
large carnivores.At the Kenya Wildlife<br />
Service’s Nairobi Animal Orphanage,<br />
reintegrating lions, for example, is<br />
a completely different ballgame.<br />
Dr. David Ndeereh, who oversees the<br />
orphanage’s programmes, says lions are<br />
highly territorial, and are more likely to<br />
develop human dependency, which makes<br />
their rehabilitation more difficult. In<br />
these cases, the animals are retained in<br />
the orphanage or its sister facility, the<br />
Nairobi Safari Walk.<br />
Despite limited space and capacity,<br />
the people who operate the orphanage<br />
are dedicated to helping these animals,<br />
and are determined not to turn away<br />
any that need care. Right now, the<br />
orphanage is home to 21 rescued lions. ><br />
Community wildlife<br />
sanctuaries<br />
•The ISHAQBINI HIROLA<br />
community concervancy, aims to<br />
protect the hirola, Africa’s most<br />
endangered antelope, and was<br />
created through enormous effort on<br />
the part of the local Hara, Korissa<br />
and Kotile communities. In 2012<br />
48 hirolas were placed into a<br />
fenced, predator-free sanctuary of<br />
30 square kilometres, set aside by<br />
the community.<br />
•The NAIVASHA OWL TRUST is<br />
a rescue and rehabilitation<br />
centre for birds of prey and owls,<br />
based in Naivasha, Kenya.<br />
•LOCAL OCEAN TRUST in<br />
Watamu is a private,<br />
not-for-profit organisation<br />
committed to the protection<br />
of Kenyas marine environment,<br />
in particular sea turtles.
68 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
Young conservationists<br />
Inspired by a visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, the children of Kajiado County<br />
Kennedy School in the Rift Valley began an annual Mashujaa Day Bike Challenge in<br />
2015 to raise money for the trust’s orphaned elephants (Mashujaa) in Swahili means<br />
“heroes”); they raised Ksh 100,000. “We know we cannot do enough to save all the<br />
elephants,” says nine-year-old Caroline Timla. “But we shall do our little thing.”<br />
LEARNING TO BE PATIENT<br />
While the goal of these rescue<br />
groups and the people who run them is<br />
largely to rehabilitate animals and return<br />
them to the wild, others exist to offer<br />
life-long refuge to those who may never<br />
be able to survive on their own. One<br />
such organisation is the Sweetwaters<br />
Chimpanzee Sanctuary in the Ol Pejeta<br />
Conservancy in Laikipia. The sanctuary,<br />
founded in 1993 in partnership with<br />
the Jane Goodall Institute and the<br />
Kenya Wildlife Service, is home to 39<br />
chimpanzees, all of which have suffered<br />
trauma due to civil war, wildlife trafficking<br />
and the illegal bushmeat trade. In addition<br />
to physical injuries, many of the<br />
chimpanzees bear lasting psychological<br />
scars of the horrific conditions from<br />
which they were rescued and will require<br />
ongoing medical attention and care for<br />
the rest of their lives. The staff is very<br />
sensitive to the horrific suffering and<br />
abuse many of the chimpanzees have<br />
experienced, and work hard to gain their<br />
trust and teach them to be climbing,<br />
social chimpanzees again.<br />
But it takes time. Stephen Mukundi,<br />
a caregiver at the sanctuary, explains<br />
that recovery from the trauma is a<br />
gradual and difficult process. “We have<br />
learned to be patient and calm with<br />
them,” he says. “We encourage their<br />
progress through play and other<br />
enrichment activities.”<br />
By integrating rescued chimpanzees<br />
into one of the two resident families −<br />
where they spend their days exploring<br />
and socialising − the sanctuary offers<br />
rescued chimpanzees a new lease on life.<br />
Richard Vigne, chief executive<br />
officer of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, argues<br />
that the very existence of the sanctuary<br />
represents a conservation failure,<br />
although he adds that it plays a key<br />
role in generating awareness. “We<br />
believe the sanctuary can be used as a<br />
platform for education about the plight<br />
facing wild chimpanzee populations in<br />
Africa,” he says.<br />
ANP Barcroft Media<br />
SELF-SUSTAINING POPULATION<br />
In addition to addressing the<br />
impact of wildlife crime and human<br />
wildlife conflict, a number of wildlife<br />
programmes are also dedicated to the<br />
long-term recovery and repopulation<br />
of threatened and endangered species.<br />
Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy’s<br />
Bongo Rehabilitation Project is creating<br />
a self-sustaining wild population of<br />
mountain bongo, a species of forest<br />
antelope believed to number just 100<br />
in the wild.<br />
In 2004, a captive group of eighteen<br />
bongos was repatriated from the US to<br />
the conservancy to join its sixteen<br />
resident bongos. Today the Bongo<br />
Rehabilitation Project is home to 64<br />
bongos, a number that Donald Bunge,<br />
the conservancy’s wildlife manager,<br />
says is indicative of its success, however<br />
gradual. It has not been without its<br />
challenges, however: eleven of the<br />
repatriated bongos died because their<br />
immune systems were unable to stand up<br />
to diseases endemic to their new habitat.<br />
The next phase of the project<br />
involves setting aside a five squarekilometre<br />
section of forested land<br />
outside of the conservancy, where select<br />
bongos can breed. The offspring will<br />
then be released into the wild within<br />
former bongo habitats.<br />
These organisations are united in<br />
their strong commitment to increasing<br />
public awareness of the need to conserve<br />
wildlife. Many of them share Richard<br />
Vigne’s sobering attitude. “If the<br />
sanctuary ceased to exist in 40 years<br />
time,” he says, “then either we will have<br />
done our job as conservationists and<br />
stopped the illegal trade in wildlife<br />
across Africa or there will be no wildlife<br />
left to rescue.”<br />
~ Ivy Wairimu is a conservation marketing<br />
expert. She is passionate about raising<br />
awareness of endangered species.<br />
How to give your support:<br />
sheldrickwildlifetrust.org;<br />
olpejetaconservancy.org;<br />
animalorphanagekenya.org
WILDLIFE / 69<br />
“We believe the sanctuary<br />
can be used as a platform<br />
for education”<br />
Getty Images
ENTERTAINMENT / 71<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
offers its passengers<br />
complimentary inflight<br />
entertainment.<br />
The programme will<br />
vary in different aircraft<br />
types. Check your<br />
screen to view the<br />
selection on your flight.<br />
Relax & Enjoy<br />
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />
Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them<br />
(read more on the next page)<br />
“It’s a message of tolerance,<br />
understanding, a desire to sort of take fear out<br />
of relationships and to celebrate<br />
Otherness and not to be afraid of the Other”<br />
– David Yates, Director of Fantastic Beasts<br />
and Where to Find Them, on the movie’s message –<br />
MOVIE RATINGS<br />
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.
72 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
New Releases<br />
Fantastic<br />
Beasts<br />
And Where to Find Them<br />
This critically-celebrated and<br />
much anticipated prequel to the<br />
Harry Potter series has all the<br />
magic, wizardry and villainy as<br />
the Potter films, but sets itself<br />
far apart in terms of storyline,<br />
characters, period and setting.<br />
Set in 1926 New York City, the movie<br />
tells the story of Newt Scamander,<br />
an English ‘magizoologist’ who is the<br />
author of a textbook from which the<br />
film borrows its name. He arrives in the<br />
Big Apple to study its magical creatures,<br />
but things quickly go awry when his<br />
own beasts escape from his suitcase.<br />
The movie is a fast-paced telling of<br />
Newt’s 48-hour adventure, during which<br />
he must track down his runaway beasts<br />
and keep them from wreaking havoc on<br />
the streets of New York, all the while<br />
caught between the sinister actions of a<br />
dark wizard called Gellert Grindelwald<br />
and a growing group of extremists<br />
who oppose wizardry and magic.<br />
The film is the screenwriting debut of<br />
JK Rowling, author of the Harry Potter<br />
series. David Heyman, who produced<br />
the Harry Potter movies, returns as<br />
producer for Fantastic Beasts, and<br />
director David Yates also directed four<br />
of the Potter films.<br />
Fantastic Beasts (2016) FAMILY, ADVENTURE<br />
Adventure ensues when English ‘magizoologist’ arrives in New York and his<br />
fantastic beasts escape from his suitcase. A prequel to the Harry Potter series.<br />
Eddie Redmayne, Ezra Miller. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: David Yates<br />
Rules Don’t Apply (2016) ROMANCE, COMEDY<br />
A love story about an aspiring actress, a determined driver and a wildly<br />
eccentric billionaire for whom they both work.<br />
Haley Bennett, Taissa Farmiga. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: Warren Beatty<br />
Did you know<br />
~ Each of the actors in Fantastic Beasts designed their own<br />
wands and took classes to learn how to use them.<br />
~ JK Rowling first published an edition of the Fantastic Beasts<br />
and Where to Find Them textbook in 2001.<br />
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children (2016) DRAMA<br />
A boy discovers clues to a mystery that spans alternate realities and uncovers<br />
an abandoned children’s home where residents have special powers.<br />
Eva Green, AsaButterfield. PG-12, 127 mins, Director: Tim Burton
ENTERTAINMENT / 73<br />
Classics<br />
In Time (2011) ACTION, SCI-FI<br />
In a future where time is – literally – money, Will Salas gets a big break<br />
when a windfall of time gives him access to the world of the wealthy.<br />
Justin Timberlake. PG-12, 109 mins. Director: Andrew Niccol<br />
Cleopatra (1963) DRAMA<br />
A romantic drama of epic proportions, this classic tells the story of an<br />
ambitious Egyptian queen who will sacrafice all to save her country.<br />
Elizabeth Taylor. PG-14, 192 mins, Director: Joseph L. Mankiewicz<br />
Cheaper by the Dozen (2003) COMEDY, FAMILY<br />
A couple with 12 children pursue more demanding careers and find big<br />
families and big careers are hard to balance. Remake of the ’50s classic.<br />
Steve Martin, Bonnie Hunt. PG, 98 mins, Director: Shawn Levy<br />
The Seven Year Itch (1955) COMEDY, ROMANCE<br />
A husband who has always been faithful to his wife suddenly finds himself<br />
tempted by his neighbour when his family goes away for the summer.<br />
Marilyn Monroe, Tom Ewell. PG, 105 mins, Director: Billy Wilder<br />
The Martian (2015) DRAMA, SCI-FI<br />
An astronaut is stranded on Mars because his team thinks he’s dead, and<br />
he must rely on his ingenuity to signal to Earth that he is alive.<br />
Matt Damon, Jessica Chastain. PG-12, 144 mins, Director: Ridley Scott<br />
The Secret Life of Bees (2008) DRAMA<br />
In 1964 South Carolina, a 14-year-old girl and her nanny flee the girl’s<br />
abusive father and take refuge with three sisters on a honey farm.<br />
Dakota Fanning. PG-12, 114 mins, Director: Gina Prince-Bythewood
74 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
African Highlights<br />
Safe Bet<br />
Mum Dad meet Sam<br />
Queen of Katwe<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
the continent<br />
We have selected the best of current African cinema,<br />
including drama and comedy.<br />
Safe Bet (2015) ACTION, COMEDY<br />
Frank is tempted to risk all of his boss’ money on a fixed boxing match<br />
when his old friend Khaya comes up with the scheme.<br />
Wandile Molebatsi, Godfrey Thobejane, Luthuli Dlamini. PG-13, 90 mins,<br />
Director: Bonginhlanhla Ncube<br />
Mum, Dad Meet Sam (2014) COMEDY<br />
Josiah takes his love, Samantha, home to meet his family, where a supposed<br />
special occasion becomes a nightmare.<br />
Tomasz Dabrowski, Amanda Smith, Emily Lucienne. PG-13, 94 mins,<br />
Director: Tony Sebastian Ukpo<br />
Moth to a Flame (2016) DRAMA<br />
A woman must drive a taxi to pay her father’s medical bills, until a chance<br />
encounter changes her situation for the better.<br />
Fami Jacobs, Shaffy Bello, Kiki Omeili. PG-13, 107 mins,<br />
Director: Onesoul<br />
Safe Bet<br />
The Wedding (2016) DRAMA<br />
A Yoruba doctor proposes to his Igbo girlfriend and feels the wrath of<br />
tribalistic prejudice from their respective mothers.<br />
Jide Kosoko, Desmond Elliot, Blossom Chijekwu. PG-13, 107 mins,<br />
Director: Desmond Elliot<br />
Ruse (2016) DRAMA<br />
A man with amnesia grows close to his doctor, but when he moves into<br />
her home their relationship changes.<br />
Keira Heiwatch, Michael Ucheagbu, Peace Egwu. PG-13, 90 mins,<br />
Director: Emmanual Aka<br />
Tell Me Sweet Something (2016) COMEDY<br />
Moratiwa, a bookstore owner and aspiring writer, meets Nat, a model, who<br />
has never read a book in his life but wants to be loved for his mind and<br />
not his body.<br />
Thomas Gumede, Maps Maponyane, Nomzamo Mbatha. PG-13, 90<br />
mins, Director: Akin Omotoso<br />
Kati Kati (2016) DRAMA<br />
Kaleche, a young amnesiac, wakes up in the wilderness and meets a crew<br />
under the leadership of Thoma.<br />
Nyokabi Gethaiga, Elsaphan Njora. PG-13, 75 mins, Director: Mbithi<br />
Masya<br />
Luke of Lies (2015) DRAMA<br />
A close-knit trio of con artists’ trusting relationships suffers when a<br />
street-smart woman is added to the group.<br />
Alex Ekuo, Belinda Effah, Daniella Okeke. PG-13, 78 mins, Director:<br />
Emmanuel Man
ENTERTAINMENT / 75<br />
African Highlights<br />
Biography<br />
Queen of Katwe<br />
A compassionate biopic that tells the story of Phiona Mutesi, a<br />
young girl from Uganda who, despite all odds, became her country’s<br />
first female titled chess champion.<br />
You’d be forgiven for thinking this film’s tie to Walt Disney Studios means director<br />
Mira Nair has softened her tone, but that is emphatically not so. Its subject, Phiona<br />
Mutesi, grew up in one of Uganda’s largest slums, but her life was transformed<br />
through the game of chess. Nair elegantly tells the story of Mutesi’s chess success,<br />
without glossing over the very real difficulties facing her family. The result is a<br />
rare thing: A film with a conscience and a Hollywood heart.<br />
Madina Nalwanga, David Oyelowo, Lupita Nyong’o. PG, 124 mins, Director: Mira Nair<br />
“Disney never<br />
pressured me to<br />
sugarcoat or<br />
sanitise. I think<br />
of it as my film.<br />
It feels radical”<br />
– Mira Nair –<br />
Director of Queen of Katwe<br />
2016 Disney Enterprises, Inc.
76 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
TV<br />
Thailand X (Bangkok)<br />
Frequency<br />
Pretty Little Liars Cape Epic Grinder<br />
Small Screen<br />
Programmes<br />
& Series<br />
We selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />
Comedy<br />
The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 1, 2 and 3 A man returns to his hometown<br />
after a stint in Hollywood and attempts to run his family’s law firm.<br />
Just for Laughs, Season 12, Episode 2 and Season 13, Episode 8<br />
People find themselves in strange situations while captured on camera.<br />
The Big Bang Theory, Season 7, Episodes 19 and 20 A neighbour of<br />
two physicists teaches them about life outside the lab.<br />
Modern Family, Season 6, Episodes 8 and 9 Three different but related<br />
families face trials and tribulations in their uniquely comedic ways.<br />
Sports<br />
Cape Epic 2016 A look at the 13th edition of the Absa Cape Epic in which<br />
mountain bikers tackle an 8-day adventure through the Western Cape.<br />
2016 NBA Champions: Cleveland Cavaliers Season 1, Episode 1. Re-live<br />
the Cavaliers’ championship run from training to their historic comeback.<br />
A Giant Awakens, Episode 1 Through the lens of filmmaker Sylvain Doreau,<br />
the spirit and challenges of American rugby are captured at all levels.<br />
Discovery<br />
Hong Kong III Vibrant and densely populated, Hong Kong in southeastern<br />
China is a major port and global financial centre famed for its skyline.<br />
South Africa Discover South Africa, the 25th-largest country in the world<br />
by land area. As home to close to 53 million people, it is the world's 24thmost<br />
populous nation.<br />
Kenya (Maasai Mara National Reserve) The Maasai Mara National Reserve<br />
is a large game reserve in Narok County, Kenya.<br />
Londong (Lights of London) This city tour takes you through the bustling<br />
streets of London, Britain at night and past many of the city’s most<br />
important and iconic landmarks.<br />
News<br />
CNN Marketplace Africa A look at how public and private interests fuel<br />
demand for art out of African countries.<br />
Brilliant Ideas, Season 1, Episode 28 Michael Craig-Martin is celebrated<br />
around the world for his distinctive works.<br />
Follow the Leader, Season 1, Episode 1 Business journalist Farnoosh<br />
Torabi discovers the secrets to billionaire John Paul DeJoria’s success.<br />
Drama<br />
The Killing, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 3 An investigation, a grieving family<br />
and a mayoral campaign interlock after a girl’s body is found.<br />
Frequency, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A police detective is able to<br />
communicate with her dead father via a ham radio.<br />
Pretty Little Liars Four friends band together to solve the mystery of their<br />
best friend’s murder.<br />
The Originals, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A family of power-hungry<br />
vampires look to take back the city they built.<br />
Gotham, Season 2, Episodes 1 and 2. The story behind Detective James<br />
Gordon’s rise to prominence in Gotham City before Batman’s arrival.
ENTERTAINMENT / 77<br />
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for<br />
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />
of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,<br />
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />
Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />
Audio<br />
Spotlight on<br />
Leonard<br />
Cohen<br />
In this month’s spotlight section,<br />
we offer a collection of beautiful<br />
songs from Leonard Cohen.<br />
Canadian singer, songwriter, musician,<br />
poet, novelist and painter Leonard Cohen<br />
(1934 – 2016) was a beloved artist whose<br />
body of work included 26 albums, the latest<br />
of which – You Want It Darker – was<br />
released just one month before his death.<br />
Best known for songs such as “Hallelujah,”<br />
“Suzanne” and “Everybody Knows,” he was<br />
a highly influential musician.<br />
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />
African Classics<br />
The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />
Jazz<br />
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />
Pop<br />
Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most loved<br />
pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />
Dance Hall/Reggae<br />
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />
Alamy<br />
Classical<br />
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />
Chinese Pop<br />
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />
of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />
Easy Listening<br />
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />
sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />
Meditation<br />
Sit back, relax and destress to the ultimate<br />
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />
Quote<br />
“Ring the bells that still can ring.<br />
Forget your perfect offering.<br />
There’s a crack in everything,<br />
that’s how the light gets in”<br />
– Lyrics from “Anthem,” off Cohen’s 1992 album “The Future” –
78 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Kids<br />
Comedy<br />
Ice Age:<br />
The Meltdown<br />
Manny the woolly mammoth, Sid<br />
the sloth, Diego the saber-toothed<br />
tiger and Scrat, the prehistoric<br />
squirrel/rat return for another<br />
adventure, seeking higher ground.<br />
Manny, Sid and Diego are living in a large<br />
valley surrounded on all sides by an enormously<br />
high ice wall. Fear strikes when<br />
they learn the wall is holding back a large<br />
body of water that threatens to flood their<br />
home. When a vulture tells them of a boat<br />
across the valley that could save them, the<br />
friends set off to find it – but they only<br />
have three days to do it. This highly<br />
enjoyable film is full of witty dialogue and<br />
a central theme of friendship despite<br />
differences, and loyalty despite danger.<br />
Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo.<br />
PG, 91 mins, Director: Carlos Saldanha<br />
Film and TV<br />
The Ones to Watch<br />
These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />
Young Justice<br />
Follows the lives of teenage<br />
superheroes and their sidekicks<br />
as they strive to prove themselves<br />
as members of the so-called<br />
Justice League.<br />
Season 2, Episode 2<br />
Scooby Doo<br />
In this classic and iconic cartoon,<br />
a group ofteenage friends and their<br />
lovable Great Dane, Scooby Doo,<br />
travel in abright green van solving<br />
strange and hilarious mysteries.<br />
Season 1, Episode 14<br />
Teen Titans<br />
A team of five teenage<br />
superheroes save the world from<br />
villains while dealing with the same<br />
issues other teens do. Based on<br />
the DC Comics series.<br />
Season 1, Episode 1<br />
Storks<br />
The storks have stopped their<br />
infant-delivery business, but are<br />
forced to make an exception.<br />
Andy Samberg, Katie Crown. 87<br />
mins, Directors: Nicholas Stoller,<br />
Doug Sweetland
TRANSLATED / 81<br />
Français & 中 文<br />
Français<br />
82<br />
Le Cap, une ville surprenante<br />
84<br />
Le meilleur de Dubaï<br />
中 文<br />
86<br />
神 奇 的 开 普 敦<br />
87<br />
迪 拜 之 最
82 / TRANSLATED<br />
Français<br />
Voyage<br />
Le Cap,<br />
une ville<br />
surprenante<br />
Le Cap est une ville prospère avec<br />
son entrepreneuriat créatif.<br />
DEUX QUARTIERS sont en train<br />
de prendre la tête des saveurs et des<br />
designs locaux.<br />
ENCORE RÉCEMMENT, UN<br />
APRÈS-MIDI au Gin Bar, l’abreuvoir<br />
tendance des hipsters du Cap, un jeune<br />
entrepreneur du nom de JP du Toit faisait<br />
part de son projet de créer sa propre<br />
marque de tonic artisanal. Les micro-distilleries<br />
locales, disait-il, ont toujours produit<br />
de merveilleux gins artisanaux qui mériteraient<br />
tellement mieux que d’être melangés<br />
à des tonics de supermarchés.<br />
Voilà le type de suggestion intelligente<br />
que l’on entend souvent aujourd’hui au<br />
Cap. La grande ville a toujours été un terreau<br />
pour l’esprit d’entreprise, notamment<br />
dans les quartiers qui furent jadis délabrés,<br />
qui combinaient grands espaces et loyers<br />
plancher. Dans la partie est du centre-ville,<br />
les friches industrielles de Woodstock ont<br />
été réhabilitées et transformées en phalanstères<br />
pour designers, restaurateurs, artistes<br />
et cafetiers. Le même phénomène s’observe<br />
autour des maisons victoriennes du quartier<br />
d’affaires central – connu sous le nom de<br />
CBD – où, sous la poussière des chantiers de<br />
construction et de rénovation, un nouveau<br />
cœur prospère de restaurants et de vie nocturne<br />
émerge.<br />
Le Gin Bar se « cache » dans une cour<br />
située derrière le magasin Honest Chocolate,<br />
une petite boutique artisanale de chocolat.<br />
À l’intérieur, les hommes arborent des<br />
barbes soignées avec autant d’aisance que<br />
les femmes y portent des cardigans de<br />
grand-mère. Le menu se limite à quatre<br />
cocktails savamment conçus, nommés<br />
Heart, Head, Soul et Ambition, les quatre<br />
éléments du succès actuel de la ville du Cap.<br />
On dénombre 2 bars à gin dans le quartier<br />
des affaires du Cap. Le second, Mother’s<br />
Ruin, propose 150 sortes de gins, dont 15<br />
d’Afrique du Sud. Dans la plupart des cas,<br />
cela signifie qu’ils sont infusés avec du fynbos,<br />
des herbes aromatiques spécifiques à la<br />
pointe sud-ouest de l’Afrique, aux alentours<br />
de Table Mountain. Ces infusions sont si<br />
bien adaptées qu’elles pourraient expliquer<br />
pourquoi l’alcool de genièvre a trouvé sa<br />
place au Cap.<br />
DES RESTAURANTS À LA PELLE<br />
Les plus rapides et plus récents développements<br />
qu’a connu le quartier central des<br />
affaires ont eu lieu autour de Bree Street, sur<br />
une surface couvrant les 17 pâtés de maisons<br />
qui, au cours des dernières années, sont<br />
sortis du sol pour devenir un nouveau coin<br />
branché de la ville pour les bars et les restaurants.<br />
Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room (au<br />
n° 133 Bree) s’enorgueillit de ses huîtres<br />
fraîches de la côte ouest de l’Afrique du<br />
Sud et d’un menu roboratif de style américain,<br />
tandis qu’en face, le Charango Grill<br />
and Bar (n° 114 Bree) déplace les foules<br />
avec ses ceviches péruviens et ses tacos au<br />
poisson.<br />
À l’angle d’Heritage Square, Love Thy<br />
Neighbour (n°110) associe bières brassées<br />
maison et mezzés méditerranéens, grillades<br />
et souvlakis. Quelques portes plus loin, Chefs<br />
Warehouse & Canteen (n° 92) propose son<br />
menu très apprécié, Tapas for 2, lequel<br />
change quotidiennement, et qui met à la<br />
carte des succès tels que le chevreuil tendre<br />
aux carottes arc-en-ciel ou le canard à<br />
l’asiatique relevé au piment. Plus loin, au<br />
sud ouest, deux restaurants contigus,<br />
Culture Club Cheese (n° 215) et Bacon on<br />
Bree (n° 217), se consacrent aux plaisirs<br />
défendus des nourritures boucheuses d’artères.<br />
Toasts Caprese, croque-monsieurs et<br />
omelettes aux trois fromages d’un côté;<br />
Sandwichs BLT (Bacon-Laitue-Tomate),<br />
croissants au bacon et salades César au<br />
bacon de l’autre.<br />
COLLECTIF COOL<br />
À seulement 10 minutes en taxi de Bree<br />
Street, le quartier industriel de Woodstock<br />
était connu pour être plutôt à la dérive et<br />
New Museum of<br />
Contemporary Art<br />
<strong>2017</strong> est en passe de devenir une année des<br />
plus excitantes pour Le Cap puisque l’ouverture<br />
du Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art<br />
Africa est prévue pour septembre. Baptisé<br />
du nom du collectionneur d’art et homme<br />
d’affaires allemand Jochen Zeitz (qui fera<br />
donation de sa collection privée originale),<br />
il a pour ambition de devenir le plus grand<br />
musée dédié à l’art africain contemporain.<br />
D’une surface de plus de 9500m2 repartis<br />
sur 9 étages, le musée est installé dans<br />
d’anciens silos à grain sur le front de mer<br />
V&A. Le système de monte-charge du grain<br />
sur le toit de l’ensemble sera transformé en<br />
hôtel de luxe dont le nom sera tout simplement<br />
: The Silo.<br />
zeitzmocaa.museum<br />
malfamé. Pourtant, en 20 ans, depuis<br />
l’émergence de la nation arc-en-ciel sous<br />
Nelson Mandela, de nombreuses boutiques<br />
branchées, des restaurants, des magasins de<br />
design et des lofts, sont apparus et en ont<br />
fait l’endroit le plus branché à visiter en<br />
dehors du CBD.<br />
Le premier grand pôle d’attraction du<br />
quartier fut un collectif d’entreprises créatives,<br />
de cafés et de galeries d’art situés sur<br />
le site d’une ancienne biscuiterie, appelée<br />
aujourd’hui simplement le Old Biscuit Mill.<br />
De nos jours, il s’est transformé en un projet<br />
majeur pour les locaux et les visiteurs.<br />
Le spécialiste du café, Micro-roastery Espresso<br />
Lab vous prépare des cafés importés<br />
des hautes terres du Kenya et de l’Éthiopie,<br />
tandis que le studio céramiques Imiso, dont<br />
les motifs s’inspirent de Picasso tout autant<br />
que des scarifications africaines en font un<br />
« Bien des restaurants<br />
branchés, des magasins de<br />
design et des lofts ont fait<br />
de Woodstock un endroit<br />
à la mode. »
TRANSLATED / 83<br />
Photo: Mirjam Bleeker, Dana van Leeuwen<br />
arrêt incontournable pour les chasseurs de<br />
souvenirs.<br />
Au fond d’une cour très animée, le Test<br />
Kitchen du chef Luke Dale-Robert, tant de<br />
fois nominé et décoré, s’est vu honorer du<br />
prix du meilleur restaurant de l’année par<br />
EatOut, le guide des meilleures tables<br />
d’Afrique, sans discontinuer depuis 2012.<br />
Fidèle au nom de son établissement,<br />
Dale-Roberts laisse libre cours à sa créativité<br />
tous azimuts, combinant les traditions<br />
culinaires spécifiques de l’Afrique du Sud<br />
avec celles de l’Asie — pensez au biltong de<br />
bœuf Wagyu à la réglisse (fines tranches de<br />
bœuf séché et épicé comparable au beef<br />
jerky) et son tartare de truite fumée pendant<br />
12 heures.<br />
Alors qu’il est impératif de réserver des<br />
semaines à l’avance une table au The Test<br />
Kitchen, la nourriture locale au marché<br />
artisanal alimentaire hebdomadaire qui se<br />
tient dans les environs de the Mill est un<br />
véritable réconfort. Chaque samedi, on y<br />
trouve un pléthorique assortiment de délicatesses<br />
allant du shoarma syrien aux empanadas<br />
argentines en passant par les petits<br />
poffertjes hollandais et la paella valencienne.<br />
C’est également l’endroit rêvé pour qui<br />
souhaite s’approvisionner en produits biologiques<br />
du terroir, vins et bières artisanales.<br />
TALENTS PROMETTEURS<br />
À Woodstock bien des entrepôts, fonderies<br />
et usines désaffectés ont suivi<br />
l’exemple du Old Biscuit Mil. La plupart<br />
d’entre eux se situent le long de l’Albert<br />
Road, principale artère commerçante du<br />
quartier. À quelques minutes de marche du<br />
Biscuit Mill, par exemple, un vaste entrepôt<br />
a été transformé en coopérative pour les<br />
jeunes artisans et les créateurs de mode.<br />
Go West<br />
À la sortie est du Cap, vignobles et restaurants<br />
de Franschhoek et de Stellenbosch<br />
présentent le meilleur de la gastronomie<br />
sud-africaine. Ces dernières années, des<br />
adresses culinaires plus confidentielles<br />
se sont ouvertes à Paternoster, petit<br />
village de pêcheurs de la côte est.<br />
Là, des chefs célèbres comme Rueben<br />
Riff et Jaco Kruger ont ouvert ou repris<br />
des établissements (respectivement<br />
Abalone House pour le premier et Die<br />
Gaaitjie, pour le second). Le plus novateur<br />
de la bande reste, de toutes les manières,<br />
le chef Kobus van der Merwe. À Wolfgat,<br />
sa « cuisine de plage » unanimement<br />
célébrée est hyper locale puisqu’elle<br />
intègre herbes et plantes du littoral,<br />
et s’inspire des traditions culinaires de<br />
l’Afrique du Sud.<br />
Sampson Street 10, Paternoster,<br />
wolfgat.co.za<br />
« La gastronomie locale<br />
est un réconfort au<br />
marché artisanal<br />
alimentaire hebdomadaire<br />
qui se tient dans les<br />
environs de the Mill. »<br />
Connu sous le nom de Threads Project<br />
(projet fringues), c’est le produit de l’imagination<br />
de Greg Swanepoel, un grossiste en<br />
prêt-à-porter qui a décidé de faire profiter<br />
de son expérience de trente ans dans la<br />
branche aux futurs talents.<br />
En partageant l’espace et en s’associant,<br />
au niveau logistique de la gestion des<br />
petites structures, le projet permet aux<br />
jeunes entrepreneurs de consacrer plus de<br />
temps et d’énergie à leur créativité qu’aux<br />
soucis quotidiens de la comptabilité ou de<br />
la gestion du commerce en ligne. Chacun<br />
loue son propre espace dans le bâtiment ce<br />
qui contribue à l’éclectisme de la gamme<br />
des produits proposés : on citera pêle-mêle,<br />
bikinis flashy, maroquinerie éco à base de<br />
liège, chaussettes en bambou et illustrations<br />
dessinées à la main. Le tout fabriqué majoritairement<br />
au Cap.<br />
Plus près du centre-ville, les devantures<br />
des magasins bordant l’Albert Road se font,<br />
de plus en plus, soignées. Les halls d’exposition<br />
des magasins de meubles ne se limitent<br />
plus au mobilier local mais proposent aussi<br />
de l’ameublement design néerlandais ou<br />
danois.<br />
On a du mal a le croire quand<br />
Swanepoel se lamente sur la flambée<br />
des prix de l’immobilier à Woodstock.<br />
« Maintenant que cette partie de la ville a<br />
atteint une certaine maturité et une certaine<br />
saturation, nous observons un repli vers le<br />
centre-ville, » explique-t-il en faisant allusion<br />
à Bree Street et au reste de CBD.<br />
Il semble que les deux quartiers les plus<br />
branchés du Cap ont réussi à équilibrer<br />
leur taux de hipsters.<br />
✈ Réservez votre vol :<br />
kenya-airways.com<br />
Où séjourner<br />
CAPE HERITAGE HOTEL<br />
Si vous souhaitez séjourner dans le centreville,<br />
au cœur de l’agitation de Bree Street<br />
dans le quartier branché du Cap, Heritage<br />
Square, ce boutique-hôtel du XVIIIe siècle<br />
entièrement restauré, offre chambres et<br />
suites, chacune avec son caractère particulier.<br />
Les espaces restaurant et lounge ne<br />
sont pas en reste, ni d’ailleurs le jacuzzi du<br />
toit-terrasse ou la cour centrale « ombragée<br />
par les treilles de la plus vieille vigne<br />
d’Afrique du Sud ». Le prix des chambres<br />
s’échelonne de 2 100 rands (150 EUR)<br />
pour une chambre double standard à<br />
environ 10 500 rands (750 EUR) pour un<br />
appartement de luxe de deux pièces.<br />
90 Bree Street<br />
+27 21 424 4646<br />
Capeheritage.co.za<br />
THE GRAND DADDY HOTEL<br />
Si vous avez toujours rêvé de passer<br />
une nuit dans un Airstream Trailer (ces<br />
caravanes aux lignes épurées des années<br />
50), le 4 étoiles The Granddaddy Hotel en a<br />
installé 7 entièrement revisitées avec lits et<br />
kitchenettes sur le toit de l’immeuble. Ceci<br />
dit, l’hôtel propose aussi des chambres<br />
« en dur », toutes avec TV écran plat et air<br />
conditionné. Une atmosphère particulière,<br />
tendance et festive émane de cet hôtel du<br />
centre CBD avec son cinéma-terrasse de<br />
plein air : le Pink Flamingo et ses deux bars<br />
à cocktail. Le chambres standard tournent<br />
autour des 2 895 rands (207 EUR) la<br />
nuit et les chambres caravane AirStream<br />
trailers autour de 4 295 rands (307 EUR)<br />
par chambre et par nuit.<br />
38 Long Street<br />
+27 212 424 7247<br />
Granddaddy.co.za<br />
CAPE TOWN LODGE HOTEL<br />
Option moins onéreuse (des tarifs à partir<br />
de 1 070 rands, soit 77 EUR par nuit) et<br />
à quelques pas de Bree Street, le Cape<br />
Town Lodge Hotel and Conference Center,<br />
vous accueille avec ses 123 chambres<br />
ou ses appartements-studios (ou lofts)<br />
dans un immeuble urbain avec vue sur<br />
Table Mountain (La Montagne de la Table),<br />
Lions Head et Signal Hill. C’est l’adresse<br />
idéale pour les voyages d’affaires et<br />
pour les congrès, puisqu’il offre tarifs<br />
entreprises et accès internet. L’hôtel se<br />
glorifie également de ses équipements de<br />
relaxation : un toit-terrasse avec piscine,<br />
une salle de sport couverte, un restaurant<br />
buffet branché, des décors colorés, tant à<br />
la réception que dans le lobby. La note de<br />
TripAdvisor est de 4 sur 5.<br />
101 Buitengracht Street<br />
+27 214 22 0030<br />
capetownlodge.co.za
84 / TRANSLATED<br />
Français<br />
Voyage<br />
8<br />
Manières<br />
de découvrir<br />
Dubaï<br />
Quand on voit leurs constructions<br />
les PLUS HAUTES, LEURS<br />
centres commerciaux les plus<br />
grands, leurs suites sous-marines<br />
et leurs yachts à des millions de<br />
dollars, il est clair qu’aux EAU,<br />
on ne fait pas les choses à moitié.<br />
C’est ce que nous vous souhaitons<br />
de ne pas faire non plus.<br />
1Arriver un vendredi<br />
Envie d’un long week-end ? Il faut<br />
savoir qu’à Dubaï les week-ends<br />
se situent entre le vendredi et le samedi.<br />
Arriver un vendredi matin permet de<br />
s’habituer avant ce tour de force que<br />
constitue cet événement de poids :<br />
le brunch. Il existe une interprétation pour<br />
millionnaires de cette notion de « breakfast<br />
meets lunch » : un repas coûte environ<br />
450 AED par personne et se compose,<br />
pour un tiers d’innombrables sushis, de<br />
fruits, de brochettes au barbecue et de<br />
gâteaux de pâtissier artistiquement étagés le<br />
long de structures de glace et de fontaines<br />
de chocolat. Les agapes s’accompagnent de<br />
musique live et sont arrosées régulièrement<br />
de champagne. Joignez-vous à la fête dans<br />
l’un des hôtels les plus glamours. Les plus<br />
opulents des brunchs sont servis au Al<br />
Qasr’s Arboretum et dans les restaurants<br />
du Royal Meridien’s Maya (ce dernier<br />
comprenant même piscine et accès à la<br />
plage après le repas). Flûte à champagne en<br />
main, trinquer avec les hommes d’affaires<br />
les plus talentueux de la ville vous mettra,<br />
et dans le bain et sur les rails de la scène<br />
sociale la plus brillante.<br />
2<br />
Prenez<br />
l’ascenseur le plus<br />
rapide du monde<br />
Il vous propulsera à une vitesse<br />
vertigineuse vers le sommet de la Burj<br />
Khalifa, plus haute tour de la planète et<br />
impressionnante réalisation architecturale<br />
même vue d’en-bas. Émergeant de<br />
l’impeccable centre-ville (quartier des<br />
affaires et commerçant), elle perce le ciel<br />
d’un bleu limpide, comme un mirage au<br />
cœur de la brume du désert et, fuselée et<br />
futuriste, étincelle orgueilleusement. Depuis<br />
le point de vue du deck situé au 125e étage,<br />
les autres gratte-ciel de la ville apparaissent<br />
comme autant de petites tours en briques<br />
de Lego, tandis qu’en bas, un immense<br />
lac azur est l’écrin des jets d’eau en<br />
forme d’engrenages de l’impressionnante<br />
Fontaine de Dubaï. Quand vous serez<br />
redescendu, déjeunez au café Social House<br />
établissement relax (sur le bord du Dubai<br />
Mall, près de la sortie de la Burj), pendant<br />
que le spectacle aquatique comme à<br />
Las Vegas se démène devant vous sur<br />
des rythmes classique, pop ou arabe.<br />
3<br />
Préparez<br />
la Carte Bleue<br />
Que vous vous soyez fan de shopping<br />
ou non, les centres commerciaux de<br />
Dubaï sont des incontournables. Le centre<br />
commercial Mall of the Emirates abrite<br />
une énorme piste de ski à canons à neige,<br />
complète, avec même des penguins. Mieux<br />
qu’un gadget ! Si vous avez l’œil pour le<br />
style, au Dubai Mall, vous êtes à la bonne<br />
adresse. Avec ses 500 000 m2 de commerces,<br />
ce colosse monochrome et lisse a tout ce<br />
qu’il faut depuis la haute couture (Fashion<br />
Avenue pour Prada, Gucci, etc.) jusqu’aux<br />
créations arabes (robes de bal enjolivées<br />
de pierreries et robes de mariée brodées<br />
de cristal). Louez un véhicule électrique<br />
pour vous faufiler plus vite et ne vous<br />
inquiétez pas si vous vous perdez puisque<br />
c’est inévitable. Recourez alors aux plans<br />
électroniques situés sur les piliers noirs dans<br />
les allées pour retrouver la sortie.<br />
4Marquez les dunes<br />
Si vous commencez à en avoir assez<br />
du design clinquant de la ville, une<br />
des meilleures choses à envisager à Dubaï<br />
est une évasion dans le désert couleur de<br />
rouille-rouge qui vous attend à 40 minutes<br />
environ. Il y a deux manières : achetez une<br />
excursion d’une journée : désert safari daytrip<br />
pour le Dubai Desert Conservation<br />
Reserve, ou bien réservez une nuitée dans<br />
un hôtel de désert. Les excursions d’une<br />
journée sont à peu près toutes les mêmes,<br />
mais la company Platinum Heritage (qui<br />
a pignon sur rue) s’attache à la protection<br />
du désert et propose des choix d’itinéraires<br />
en fonction des groupes. Vous pouvez vous<br />
initier au « dune bashing » (escalader puis<br />
dévaler les dunes dans des 4x4 aux pneus<br />
sous-gonflés). Attention : ce n’est pas pour<br />
tout le monde ! D’autres moments forts<br />
incluent des démonstrations de fauconnerie<br />
au coucher du soleil ou une balade en<br />
« Dîner sur un tapis magique,<br />
chargé de ragoûts<br />
épicés, de riz parfumés au<br />
clou de girofle, de pains<br />
plats frais et farinés, et de<br />
gâteaux sucrés à la pâte<br />
de dates »<br />
voiture moins tonique pour un sentier<br />
nature à la découverte de l’oryx autochtone<br />
ou d’autres animaux locaux. Et vous<br />
pourrez aussi vous faire conduire dans<br />
une Land Rover des années 60, d’époque,<br />
pour vous sentir une âme d’explorateur.<br />
Par contre, pour une expérience à la<br />
Laurence d’Arabie, vous devrez prévoir de<br />
vous réveiller dans le paysage des dunes<br />
mouvantes aux teintes de rouille qui<br />
s’étendent à perte de vue. Réservez-vous<br />
une chambre au Bab Al Shams, hôtel dans<br />
le style bédouin ou une luxueuse desert<br />
lodge au 5 étoiles Al Maha.<br />
5Décollez en hélico<br />
Il y a quelques villes dans le monde<br />
où un tour en hélicoptère confine à<br />
l’extravagance et parmi celles-ci :
TRANSLATED / 85<br />
Photo: LaPeet<br />
New York, Rio et Dubaï. Vous décollerez<br />
depuis The Palm, cette extension de la côte<br />
désignée en forme de palmier et survolerez<br />
les eaux azurées et soyeuses du Golfe<br />
arabique. The World, cet archipel artificiel<br />
d’îlots dessinés comme une carte du monde<br />
(certains « pays » plus complets que<br />
d’autres) vous laissera sans voix.<br />
Vous reviendrez ensuite vers la terre ferme,<br />
passerez le complexe hôtelier en forme de<br />
voilier du Burj Al Arab (le premier 7 étoiles<br />
du monde) puis, au travers des nombreuses<br />
tours qui composent le centre-ville,<br />
découvrirez d’en haut la tour Burj Khalifa<br />
et ce, pour ne rien dire des grues géantes<br />
nécessaires aux nombreux chantiers en<br />
construction. Vous conserverez une vision<br />
inoubliable d’une ville étincelante qui<br />
continue son expansion entre mer et désert.<br />
Un peu nerveux à l’idée de parcourir<br />
les cieux ? Un tour en hors-bord sera<br />
tout aussi fun. Cheveux au vent dans les<br />
embruns et dans les vrombissements du<br />
moteur, vous longerez les somptueux hôtels<br />
Atlantis et Burj Al Arab.<br />
6Prenez un peu de repos<br />
Vous avez connu des hauts et des<br />
bas, les sables et les eaux... un peu de<br />
tranquillité s’impose à présent. Une des<br />
raisons principales de visiter Dubaï est<br />
tout d’abord le beau temps assuré mais<br />
aussi ces dizaines d’oasis luxuriantes où<br />
vous pourrez vous prélasser. Votre hôtel,<br />
sans doute, disposera d’une vaste piscine<br />
avec transats en tissus éponge (les plus<br />
tranquilles étant celles du Ritz-Carlton<br />
JBR Walk, du Fairmont The Palm et du<br />
Dar Al Masyaf). Si ce n’est pas le cas,<br />
vous pouvez toujours passer une journée<br />
baignade dans un club de plage. RIVA,<br />
à The Palm, propose une plage de sable<br />
Coupe-soif<br />
À Dubaï, l’alcool est réservé aux établissements<br />
d’hôtellerie et de restauration<br />
disposant d’une licence. Ceci dit, les<br />
amateurs de spiritueux pourront assurément<br />
trouver leur bonheur. Les<br />
adresses les plus populaires pour qui<br />
souhaite déguster un cocktail sont, pour<br />
certaines, haut perchées puisqu’elles<br />
se situent au 122e étage de la tour Burj<br />
Khalifa pour le lounge d’At.Mosphere<br />
(réserver à l’avance) et dans la tour Burj<br />
Al Arab, pour le Sky View Bar. Comme<br />
son nom l’indique, le Trader Vic’s Mai-Tai<br />
Lounge propose une carte à rallonge de<br />
cocktails fun et colorés, certains même<br />
sans alcool dits : « virgin ». Le Raffles<br />
Dubai abrite le plus minimaliste des<br />
Crossroads Cocktail Bar, lequel propose<br />
le Raffles Singapore Sling, ainsi que sa<br />
version locale, le Dubai Sling.<br />
« N’oubliez pas de vous<br />
réserver une journée baignade<br />
pour profiter d’un<br />
spa ou d’un club de<br />
plage.»<br />
fin et un bar à pizza décontracté tandis<br />
que Nikki Beach à Jumeirah offre une<br />
ambiance entre Saint-Tropez et Miami.<br />
Si le soleil est trop fort pour vous, vous<br />
pouvez toujours trouver refuge dans la<br />
quiétude d’un spa parfumé de la ville.<br />
Le Talise Ottoman spa du Jumeirah hotel<br />
mérite le détour avec ses marbres polis<br />
paradisiaques, tandis que le One & Only<br />
du The Palm s’enorgueillit de sa technicité<br />
avec son incomparable Givenchy spa.<br />
7Explorez l’histoire de la ville<br />
Avant, il y avait l’or noir, les hôtels<br />
et les palais de congrès. Et les tribus<br />
d’Émiriens. Vous n’êtes pas supposé<br />
rencontrer un Émirien autochtone au<br />
coin de la rue (d’autant plus que les<br />
employés sont pour la plupart des indiens,<br />
des pakistanais et des Philippins), mais<br />
pour qui souhaite en savoir plus sur<br />
l’identité des Émiriens et sur leur histoire<br />
au Moyen-Orient, le Sheikh Mohammed<br />
Centre for Cultural Understanding est<br />
l’endroit indiqué. Là-bas, les visiteurs<br />
pourront se rassembler dans une maison<br />
émirienne traditionnelle du quartier de<br />
Bastakiya, la partie la plus ancienne de<br />
la ville, pour y siroter un café arabe et y<br />
déguster des dates dans une salle à manger<br />
arabe traditionnelle, et y bavarder avec<br />
des locaux. Nasif et sa jeune équipe vous<br />
accueilleront et répondront à toutes vos<br />
questions sans langue de bois. On peut<br />
parler de tout, des coutumes relatives<br />
au mariage, des rituels islamiques, des<br />
vêtements, de la cuisine ou de la façon de<br />
s’amuser de la jeunesse locale. Chaque<br />
question reçoit une réponse détaillée et<br />
informative. Inscrivez-vous au brunch<br />
culturel si vous voulez passer une heure de<br />
plus à dîner sur un tapis magique, chargé<br />
de ragoûts épicés, de riz parfumés au clou<br />
de girofle, de pains plats frais et farinés, et<br />
de gâteaux sucrés à la pâte de dates.<br />
C’est l’un des secrets les mieux gardés de<br />
Dubaï : la plus belle fête du Moyen-Orient<br />
se passe ici.<br />
8À faire sans bourse délier<br />
Malgré toutes les splendeurs des<br />
alentours, on trouve, à Dubaï, des<br />
tonnes de choses à faire sans bourse délier.<br />
Ne manquez donc pas la vieille ville :<br />
prenez un taxi pour le quartier historique<br />
de Bastakiya, où vous pourrez vous<br />
promener en toute sécurité et admirer les<br />
vieilles maisons émiriennes traditionnelles<br />
et leurs « tours à vents » en grès. Tournez<br />
ensuite à droite vers la rivière que vous<br />
longerez jusqu’au Souk des vêtements<br />
pour vous plonger dans les couleurs et<br />
les ambiances. Si vous avez un dirham<br />
(28 KES) de trop, sautez à bord d’un<br />
des abras crachotants qui font office de<br />
bateaux-taxis pour traverser le souk.<br />
Suivez la foule des chalands et vous<br />
trouverez mosquées, boutiques, et le dédale<br />
des souks aux épices, à l’or, et aux parfums.<br />
Les lève-tôt pourront voir passer sur Kite<br />
Beach les expats en route vers leur travail<br />
matinal. Cet espace public de Jumeirah<br />
Beach offre une vue magnifique sur Burj<br />
Khalifa, mais aussi des échoppes de<br />
nourriture et de smoothies ou de jus de<br />
fruit. Ensuite, passez jeter un coup d’œil<br />
sur les œuvres d’artistes locaux et sur les<br />
peintures de paysages exposées à la Majlis<br />
Gallery de Bastakiya. Attendez-vous à y<br />
voir de nombreuses réalisations inspirées<br />
par le Moyen-Orient et une cour ombragée<br />
où se rafraîchir un peu. Ou pourquoi ne<br />
pas aller applaudir un jockey des courses<br />
de chameaux ? A Dubaï, ce genre de<br />
courses est une affaire sérieuse (le Sheikh<br />
est même propriétaire de nombreux<br />
animaux de grande valeur). Les meilleurs<br />
endroits pour se promener et observer les<br />
gens dans le centre touristique sont Dubai<br />
Marina (pour les gratte-ciels démesurés<br />
et les méga-yachts) et JBR Walk (pour<br />
les bars à jus et à café, les boutiques et les<br />
plages publiques de sable blanc).<br />
✈ Réservez votre vol<br />
Voir page 56
86 / TRANSLATED<br />
中 文<br />
旅 行<br />
神 奇 的<br />
开 普 敦<br />
在 开 普 敦 , 创 意 产 业 如 雨 后 春 笋<br />
般 涌 现 。 两 大 社 区 在 当 地 美 食 和<br />
设 计 方 面 占 据 领 先 地 位 。<br />
最 近 的 一 个 下 午 , 在 开 普 敦 备 受 欢<br />
迎 的 潮 人 酒 吧 Gin Bar, 一 位 名 叫 JP du<br />
Toit 的 年 轻 企 业 家 讲 述 了 他 计 划 推 出 自<br />
主 品 牌 的 人 工 奎 宁 水 。 他 指 出 , 当 地 的<br />
微 型 酿 酒 厂 一 直 在 生 产 这 种 人 工 杜 松 子<br />
酒 , 他 们 不 应 该 将 其 与 批 量 生 产 的 奎 宁<br />
水 混 为 一 谈 。<br />
这 只 是 近 期 在 开 普 敦 出 现 的 许 多 宝<br />
贵 建 议 之 一 。 我 们 的 “ 母 亲 城 ” 正 在 大<br />
力 弘 扬 创 业 精 神 , 尤 其 是 在 破 败 一 时 的<br />
地 区 , 以 充 分 利 用 空 间 大 、 租 金 低 这 一<br />
优 势 。 在 市 中 心 的 东 边 , 伍 德 斯 托 克 的<br />
工 业 空 间 被 改 造 成 为 设 计 师 、 餐 厅 老<br />
板 、 艺 术 家 和 咖 啡 公 司 的 大 本 营 。 中 央<br />
商 务 区 ( 当 地 人 称 之 为 CBD) 的 维 多 利<br />
亚 时 期 建 筑 经 过 改 造 和 翻 修 , 摇 身 一 变<br />
成 为 全 新 的 餐 厅 和 夜 生 活 场 所 。<br />
Gin Bar 酒 吧 就 隐 匿 于 小 手 工 巧 克 力<br />
店 Honest Chocolate 后 面 的 庭 院 内 。<br />
在 这 里 , 男 士 们 蓄 着 整 齐 的 胡 须 , 女 士<br />
们 则 穿 着 复 古 开 衫 。 酒 单 主 打 四 款 精 心<br />
调 制 的 鸡 尾 酒 , 它 们 是 Heart( 心 )、<br />
Head( 智 )、Soul( 灵 ) 和 Ambition<br />
( 抱 负 ), 分 别 寓 意 开 普 敦 的 四 大 成 功<br />
要 素 。<br />
开 普 敦 中 央 商 务 区 有 两 家 专 营 杜 松<br />
子 的 酒 吧 。 另 一 家 名 叫 Mother’s Ruin,<br />
供 应 150 种 杜 松 子 酒 , 其 中 15 种 来 自<br />
南 非 。 在 大 多 数 情 况 下 , 这 意 味 着 酒 中<br />
添 加 了 在 桌 山 附 近 生 长 的 非 洲 西 南 地 区<br />
特 有 的 草 本 香 料 植 物 : 硬 叶 灌 木 。 得 益<br />
于 这 些 添 加 物 的 神 奇 功 效 , 杜 松 子 酒 在<br />
开 普 敦 占 据 了 稳 固 的 市 场 地 位 。<br />
美 食 一 条 街<br />
中 央 商 务 区 近 期 发 展 最 快 的 非 Bree<br />
街 ( 总 共 17 个 街 区 ) 莫 属 , 在 过 去 几<br />
年 , 这 里 变 成 了 市 内 全 新 的 热 门 酒 吧 和<br />
餐 厅 集 合 点 。Clarke’s 酒 吧 及 餐 厅 ( 位<br />
于 133 Bree) 供 应 来 自 南 非 西 海 岸 的 新<br />
鲜 牡 蛎 和 美 式 佳 肴 。 与 其 隔 街 相 望 的<br />
Charango 烧 烤 餐 厅 及 酒 吧 (114 Bree)<br />
则 以 秘 鲁 酸 橘 汁 腌 鱼 和 鱼 炸 玉 米 饼 吸 引<br />
了 众 多 食 客 。<br />
在 Heritage Square 的 一 角 ,Love<br />
Thy Neighbour (110) 供 应 自 制 啤 酒 和<br />
地 中 海 梅 泽 、 烧 烤 及 烤 肉 串 。 数 步 开<br />
外 ,Chefs Warehouse & Canteen (92)<br />
提 供 独 具 特 色 的 两 道 菜 套 餐 , 菜 单 中 的<br />
餐 前 小 吃 更 是 每 日 更 新 , 其 特 色 菜 包<br />
括 彩 虹 胡 萝 卜 烧 鹿 肉 和 亚 洲 辣 鸭 汤 。<br />
在 西 南 方 向 的 尽 头 坐 落 着 Culture Club<br />
Cheese (215) 和 Bacon on Bree (217),<br />
两 家 餐 厅 毗 连 而 立 , 供 应 最 顶 级 的 饕<br />
餮 美 食 。 一 家 供 应 卡 普 里 烤 面 包 、<br />
Croque Monsieur 三 明 治 和 三 奶 酪 煎<br />
蛋 ; 另 一 家 则 主 理 BLT 三 明 治 、 培 根<br />
羊 角 面 包 、 培 根 凯 萨 沙 拉 。<br />
时 尚 大 集 合<br />
从 Bree 街 搭 乘 出 租 车 , 只 需 10 分<br />
钟 即 可 抵 达 Woodstock 工 业 区 , 这 里<br />
曾 经 一 片 萧 条 , 治 安 也 不 好 。 然 而 在 曼<br />
德 拉 的 领 导 下 , 彩 虹 之 国 历 经 二 十 年 的<br />
发 展 , 现 在 , 这 里 汇 集 了 众 多 时 尚 精 品<br />
店 、 餐 厅 、 设 计 店 和 寓 所 , 是 除 CBD<br />
之 外 最 受 欢 迎 的 旅 游 目 的 地 。<br />
这 里 最 吸 引 人 的 莫 过 于 坐 落 在 一<br />
家 前 曲 奇 工 厂 ( 现 在 被 称 为 老 饼 干 工<br />
厂 ) 内 的 众 多 创 新 业 务 、 咖 啡 吧 和 艺 术<br />
画 廊 。 如 今 , 这 里 已 成 为 当 地 居 民 和<br />
外 地 游 客 的 主 要 观 光 之 所 。 微 型 烘 焙 室<br />
Espresso Lab 采 用 肯 尼 亚 和 埃 塞 俄 比 亚<br />
丘 陵 地 带 的 单 源 可 可 豆 调 制 咖 啡 , 陶 瓷<br />
工 作 室 Imiso 则 从 毕 加 索 的 作 品 和 非 洲<br />
纹 身 传 统 中 汲 取 灵 感 , 深 受 纪 念 品 爱 好<br />
者 的 青 睐 。<br />
在 一 座 繁 忙 的 庭 院 里 , 坐 落 着 Luke<br />
Dale-Roberts 主 厨 的 Test Kitchen 餐<br />
厅 , 这 家 餐 厅 屡 获 殊 荣 , 其 中 最 著 名 的<br />
要 数 EatOut( 自 2012 年 以 来 ,EatOut<br />
每 年 都 被 评 为 非 洲 领 先 餐 厅 ) 的 年 度 最<br />
佳 餐 厅 奖 。 正 如 餐 厅 的 名 字 一 样 ,Dale-<br />
Roberts 充 分 发 挥 创 意 , 将 南 非 独 特 的<br />
烹 饪 传 统 与 亚 洲 烹 饪 传 统 融 为 一 体 , 创<br />
造 出 甘 草 制 作 的 Wagyu biltong( 一 种 类<br />
似 牛 肉 干 的 五 香 肉 ) 和 耗 时 12 小 时 烹<br />
制 而 成 的 熏 鳟 鱼 鞑 靼 。<br />
Test Kitchen 通 常 需 要 提 前 几 周 才<br />
能 订 到 位 置 , 不 过 , 在 每 周 的 手 工 食 品<br />
市 场 ( 工 厂 附 近 ), 您 可 以 品 尝 到 由 当<br />
地 美 食 家 制 作 的 美 食 。 每 周 六 , 这 里 会<br />
出 售 各 种 外 来 美 食 , 包 括 叙 利 亚 沙 瓦<br />
玛 、 阿 根 廷 鸡 肉 馅 饼 、 荷 兰 小 松 饼 以 及<br />
瓦 伦 西 亚 肉 菜 饭 等 。 除 此 之 外 , 您 还 可<br />
以 品 尝 到 当 地 有 机 农 产 品 、 葡 萄 酒 和 精<br />
酿 啤 酒 。<br />
新 生 代 人 才<br />
Woodstock 的 许 多 仓 库 、 铸 造 厂 和<br />
退 役 工 厂 纷 纷 效 仿 老 饼 干 工 厂 , 它 们 之<br />
“ 许 多 时 尚 餐 厅 、 设<br />
计 店 和 寓 所 使<br />
Woodstock 成 为 备 受<br />
欢 迎 的 游 玩 去 处 ”
“ 在 磨 坊 附 近 的 每 周 手<br />
工 食 品 市 场 可 以 寻 觅 到<br />
各 式 当 地 美 食 ”<br />
中 大 部 分 都 位 于 Albert 路 , 是 该 片 区<br />
主 要 的 商 业 大 道 。 在 距 饼 干 工 厂 数 分 钟<br />
路 程 的 地 方 , 一 间 大 仓 库 被 改 造 成 了 新<br />
型 工 匠 和 时 装 设 计 师 的 “ 合 作 社 ”。 该<br />
合 作 社 取 名 Threads Project, 是 Greg<br />
Swanepoel 的 创 见 , 这 位 服 装 批 发 商 决<br />
定 向 新 人 传 授 其 在 服 装 行 业 逾 三 十 年 的<br />
宝 贵 经 验 。<br />
通 过 共 享 空 间 和 运 营 小 型 企 业 的 物<br />
流 渠 道 , 该 项 目 允 许 年 轻 企 业 家 将 更 多<br />
的 时 间 和 精 力 投 入 到 创 造 方 面 , 而 不 是<br />
日 常 的 会 计 或 电 子 商 务 管 理 。 大 家 采 用<br />
分 租 形 式 共 享 建 筑 和 各 式 各 样 的 产 品 :<br />
包 括 艺 术 作 品 、 鲜 艳 的 比 基 尼 、 环 保 软<br />
木 手 袋 、 竹 袜 和 手 绘 插 图 。 绝 大 多 数 产<br />
品 都 是 在 开 普 敦 设 计 并 制 造 。<br />
在 靠 近 市 中 心 的 Albert Road, 临 街<br />
店 铺 也 变 得 更 加 光 鲜 亮 丽 。 家 具 展 厅 不<br />
再 局 限 于 当 地 艺 术 品 , 而 且 还 展 出 了 价<br />
格 高 昂 的 荷 兰 和 丹 麦 设 计 师 品 牌 家 具 。<br />
所 以 当 Swanepoel 担 心 Woodstock<br />
的 房 价 会 一 直 飙 升 时 , 一 点 都 不 奇 怪 。<br />
他 在 谈 及 Bree 街 和 CBD 其 余 地 段 时 指<br />
出 :“ 既 然 这 一 地 区 已 经 达 到 一 定 的 成<br />
熟 和 饱 和 度 , 我 们 注 意 到 , 人 们 的 目 光<br />
再 次 回 到 了 市 中 心 。” 由 此 看 来 , 开 普<br />
敦 发 展 最 快 的 两 个 地 区 都 与 新 潮 趋 势 密<br />
不 可 分 。<br />
✈ 预 订 航 班<br />
见 第 26 页<br />
旅 行<br />
8 个<br />
视 角 看<br />
迪 拜<br />
阿 联 酋 拥 有 世 界 上 最 高 的 建<br />
筑 、 最 大 的 购 物 中 心 、 水 下 套<br />
房 以 及 价 值 百 万 美 元 的 游 艇 ,<br />
很 显 然 , 阿 联 酋 总 是 有 始 有<br />
终 , 绝 不 会 半 途 而 废 。 当 然 ,<br />
您 也 不 能 半 途 而 废 。<br />
1<br />
周 五 抵 达<br />
想 要 在 此 度 过 一 个 长 周 末 ? 那 么 您<br />
需 要 知 道 , 迪 拜 的 周 末 是 从 周 五<br />
开 始 , 周 六 结 束 。 您 可 以 在 周 五 上 午 抵<br />
达 , 趁 着 人 们 吃 早 午 餐 ( 上 班 族 周 末 最<br />
大 的 活 动 ) 之 前 适 应 一 番 。 有 一 位 百 万<br />
富 翁 对 “ 早 午 餐 ” 的 定 义 是 : 在 冰 雕 和<br />
巧 克 力 喷 泉 附 近 , 巧 妙 地 堆 着 数 不 清 的<br />
寿 司 、 水 果 、 烧 烤 串 和 法 式 蛋 糕 , 而 每<br />
人 的 餐 费 在 450 迪 拉 姆 左 右 。 席 间 , 工<br />
作 人 员 会 常 常 给 酒 杯 斟 满 香 槟 , 现 场 音<br />
乐 表 演 则 使 整 个 用 餐 氛 围 更 臻 完 美 。 在<br />
最 富 丽 堂 皇 的 酒 店 开 启 休 闲 美 食 之 旅 :<br />
皇 宫 酒 店 的 Arboretum 餐 厅 和 皇 家 艾<br />
美 酒 店 的 Maya 餐 厅 ( 用 餐 后 , 客 人 甚<br />
至 还 可 前 往 泳 池 和 海 滩 游 玩 ) 供 应 最 丰<br />
盛 的 早 午 餐 。 与 本 市 最 成 功 的 企 业 高 管<br />
们 举 杯 畅 饮 , 充 分 利 用 在 迪 拜 的 一 分 一<br />
秒 , 感 受 迪 拜 魅 力 四 射 的 社 交 生 活 。<br />
2<br />
乘 坐 世 界 上 最 快 的 电 梯<br />
作 为 世 界 第 一 高 楼 , 哈 利 法 塔 不<br />
仅 拥 有 震 撼 人 心 的 恢 弘 气 势 , 更<br />
有 速 度 极 快 的 电 梯 。 哈 利 法 塔 从 迪 拜 市<br />
中 心 ( 商 务 及 购 物 区 ) 拔 地 而 起 , 耸 入<br />
云 霄 , 其 酷 似 火 箭 飞 船 的 外 形 极 具 未 来<br />
感 , 在 俯 瞰 茫 茫 沙 漠 之 余 , 更 为 湛 蓝 的<br />
天 空 留 下 一 道 靓 丽 的 风 景 线 。 从 125 层<br />
的 观 景 台 俯 瞰 整 座 城 市 , 其 他 摩 天 大 楼<br />
仿 佛 乐 高 积 木 一 般 渺 小 , 而 在 脚 下 巨<br />
大 的 人 工 湖 旁 , 迪 拜 音 乐 喷 泉 美 轮 美<br />
奂 , 变 幻 无 穷 。 登 高 望 远 之 后 , 不 妨<br />
TRANSLATED / 87<br />
到 Social House 咖 啡 厅 小 憩 一 下 ( 位<br />
于 迪 拜 购 物 中 心 边 缘 , 靠 近 哈 利 法 塔 出<br />
口 ), 近 距 离 欣 赏 拉 斯 维 加 斯 风 格 的 喷<br />
泉 表 演 , 以 及 根 据 古 典 乐 、 流 行 乐 或 阿<br />
拉 伯 乐 精 心 编 排 的 舞 蹈 。<br />
3<br />
准 备 好 您 的 信 用 卡<br />
无 论 您 是 否 喜 欢 购 物 , 迪 拜 购 物<br />
中 心 都 是 不 可 错 过 的 一 站 。 阿 联<br />
酋 购 物 中 心 有 一 个 巨 大 的 室 内 滑 雪 场 ,<br />
在 这 里 , 您 可 以 邂 逅 可 爱 的 企 鹅 。 如 果<br />
您 对 时 尚 有 着 独 到 的 眼 光 , 那 么 迪 拜 购<br />
物 中 心 可 谓 您 的 不 二 之 选 。 迪 拜 购 物 中<br />
心 拥 有 500,000 平 方 米 的 购 物 空 间 , 从<br />
高 级 时 装 (Prada、Gucci、Co.) 到 阿<br />
拉 伯 服 饰 ( 镶 嵌 宝 石 的 礼 服 、 水 晶 婚<br />
纱 ) 应 有 尽 有 。 您 可 以 租 一 辆 电 车 , 在<br />
购 物 中 心 内 快 速 穿 梭 , 而 不 必 担 心 迷<br />
路 —— 如 果 步 行 的 话 , 这 是 不 可 避 免<br />
的 。 您 只 需 使 用 大 厅 内 黑 色 柱 子 上 的 电<br />
子 地 图 , 即 可 轻 松 找 到 出 口 。<br />
4<br />
沙 丘 越 野<br />
如 果 您 厌 倦 了 城 市 的 喧 嚣 和 浮 华 ,<br />
不 妨 开 车 到 郊 外 的 锈 红 色 沙 漠 ( 约<br />
40 分 钟 行 程 ) 来 一 场 沙 漠 之 旅 , 这 也<br />
是 迪 拜 最 具 吸 引 力 的 一 大 特 色 。 沙 漠 之<br />
旅 主 要 分 为 两 种 : 在 迪 拜 沙 漠 保 护 区 体<br />
验 沙 漠 一 日 游 , 或 在 沙 漠 营 地 酒 店 住 一<br />
晚 。 虽 然 一 日 游 的 内 容 大 致 相 同 , 但 知<br />
名 公 司 Platinum Heritage 致 力 于 保 护<br />
沙 漠 , 能 够 为 您 的 旅 游 团 提 供 最 合 适 的<br />
行 程 。 也 许 您 想 尝 试 一 下 刺 激 的 “ 沙 丘<br />
越 野 ”( 驾 驶 4x4 越 野 车 穿 越 沙 漠 ),<br />
尽 管 这 可 能 不 适 合 所 有 人 。 其 他 精 彩 活<br />
动 还 包 括 伴 着 夕 阳 观 赏 猎 鹰 、 沿 着 观 光<br />
路 线 驾 车 游 玩 、 观 赏 羚 羊 或 其 他 本 土 生<br />
物 。 您 甚 至 还 可 以 在 司 机 的 陪 伴 下 乘 坐<br />
20 世 纪 60 年 代 的 路 虎 , 来 一 场 真 正 的<br />
探 险 之 旅 。 如 果 您 想 像 《 阿 拉 伯 的 劳 伦<br />
斯 》 一 样 , 不 妨 在 一 望 无 垠 的 沙 漠 之 中<br />
度 过 难 忘 的 一 晚 。 您 可 以 在 贝 都 因 风
88 / TRANSLATED<br />
中 文<br />
格 的 沙 漠 皇 宫 酒 店 预 订 客 房 , 或 者 在<br />
五 星 级 的 沙 漠 绿 洲 度 假 村 体 验 奢 华 的<br />
沙 漠 住 宿 。<br />
5<br />
直 升 机 观 光<br />
世 界 上 有 为 数 不 多 的 几 座 城 市 是 值<br />
得 乘 坐 直 升 机 游 览 一 番 的 , 除 了<br />
纽 约 和 里 约 , 迪 拜 便 是 其 中 之 一 。 您 将<br />
从 棕 榈 岛 起 飞 ( 形 状 酷 似 甜 甜 圈 的 人 造<br />
海 岸 线 ), 飞 越 阿 拉 伯 海 湾 平 静 而 碧 蓝<br />
的 海 水 , 领 略 像 阿 特 拉 斯 一 样 的 人 工 岛<br />
屿 ( 其 中 一 些 “ 国 家 ” 比 其 他 国 家 更 完<br />
整 )。 随 后 , 您 将 飞 越 陆 地 , 经 过 风 帆<br />
形 状 的 帆 船 饭 店 ( 全 球 首 家 “ 七 星 级 ”<br />
酒 店 ) 和 市 中 心 的 摩 天 大 楼 , 俯 瞰 哈 利<br />
法 塔 , 以 及 周 围 正 在 修 建 当 中 的 各 式 建<br />
筑 。 迪 拜 靠 海 而 生 , 依 沙 漠 而 兴 , 看 到<br />
这 座 城 市 繁 荣 发 展 , 着 实 让 人 倍 感 激<br />
动 。 害 怕 乘 坐 直 升 机 ? 乘 坐 快 艇 同 样 很<br />
有 意 思 , 当 您 从 富 丽 堂 皇 的 亚 特 兰 蒂 斯<br />
酒 店 和 帆 船 酒 店 前 方 呼 啸 而 过 , 温 暖 的<br />
海 风 将 吹 起 您 的 头 发 , 轻 抚 您 的 面 颊 。<br />
6<br />
享 受 悠 然 时 光<br />
在 体 验 了 摩 天 大 楼 、 浩 瀚 沙 漠 和<br />
广 阔 大 海 之 后 , 不 要 忘 了 停 下 来<br />
休 息 一 番 。 迪 拜 旅 游 的 亮 点 之 一 是 充 足<br />
的 阳 光 , 您 可 以 在 当 地 人 打 造 的 沙 漠 绿<br />
洲 , 慵 懒 地 接 受 阳 光 的 抚 摸 。 很 多 酒 店<br />
都 提 供 大 型 泳 池 和 豪 华 休 息 室 ( 其 中<br />
环 境 最 为 安 详 宁 静 的 当 属 JBR Walk 大<br />
道 丽 思 卡 尔 顿 、 费 尔 蒙 棕 榈 酒 店 和 卓 美<br />
“ 不 要 忘 了 抽 出<br />
一 天 时 间 到 水 疗<br />
中 心 或 海 滩 俱 乐<br />
部 体 验 一 番 ”<br />
“ 在 充 满 魔 幻 色 彩 的<br />
地 毯 上 享 用 丰 盛 的 美<br />
食 , 包 括 五 香 炖 菜 、<br />
香 味 浓 郁 的 丁 香 饭 、<br />
新 鲜 的 粉 质 面 包 以 及<br />
陈 年 糖 浆 面 团 ”<br />
亚 古 堡 酒 店 ), 如 果 确 实 没 有 , 您 可 以<br />
到 海 滩 俱 乐 部 尽 情 放 松 休 憩 。 棕 榈 岛 的<br />
RIVA 拥 有 如 细 砂 糖 般 洁 白 的 细 沙 和 休<br />
闲 比 萨 店 , 而 卓 美 亚 的 尼 基 海 滩 则 集 迈<br />
阿 密 和 圣 特 罗 佩 风 情 于 一 身 。 如 果 阳 光<br />
太 过 强 烈 , 不 妨 前 往 市 内 静 谧 的 水 疗 中<br />
心 尽 享 放 松 一 刻 : 卓 美 亚 酒 店 的 Talise<br />
Ottoman 屡 获 殊 荣 , 以 大 理 石 铺 设 而<br />
成 , 而 One & Only 棕 榈 岛 度 假 村 酒 店<br />
的 Givenchy 水 疗 中 心 则 不 乏 手 艺 精 湛<br />
的 专 业 护 理 师 。<br />
7<br />
城 市 寻 根 之 旅<br />
早 在 石 油 被 发 现 、 酒 店 和 会 议 中<br />
心 在 此 落 户 之 前 , 阿 联 酋 部 落 便<br />
在 此 地 生 根 繁 衍 。 在 这 里 , 您 可 能 不 会<br />
遇 到 土 生 土 长 的 阿 联 酋 人 ( 大 多 数 服 务<br />
人 员 都 是 从 印 度 、 巴 基 斯 坦 和 菲 律 宾 移<br />
居 到 迪 拜 )。 然 而 , 如 果 您 对 阿 联 酋 在<br />
中 东 地 区 的 身 份 和 历 史 很 好 奇 , 最 好 的<br />
选 择 是 前 往 谢 赫 穆 罕 默 德 文 化 交 流 中 心<br />
探 寻 一 番 。 该 中 心 位 于 市 内 历 史 最 悠 久<br />
的 巴 斯 塔 基 亚 地 区 , 除 了 欣 赏 传 统 的 阿<br />
联 酋 房 屋 外 , 您 还 可 以 在 传 统 阿 拉 伯 餐<br />
厅 内 一 边 品 尝 咖 啡 和 美 食 , 一 边 与 当 地<br />
人 交 流 。Nasif 及 其 热 情 好 客 的 年 轻 团<br />
队 将 详 尽 地 为 您 解 答 各 类 疑 惑 , 包 括 婚<br />
姻 习 俗 、 伊 斯 兰 仪 式 、 服 饰 、 食 物 、 年<br />
轻 的 阿 联 酋 人 如 何 打 发 空 闲 时 间 等 等 。<br />
预 订 文 化 早 午 餐 , 抽 出 一 个 小 时 , 在 充<br />
满 魔 幻 色 彩 的 地 毯 上 享 用 丰 盛 的 美 食 ,<br />
包 括 五 香 炖 菜 、 香 味 浓 郁 的 丁 香 饭 、 新<br />
鲜 的 粉 质 面 包 以 及 陈 年 糖 浆 面 团 。 这 是<br />
迪 拜 最 佳 秘 制 美 食 : 市 内 最 美 味 的 中 东<br />
盛 宴 。<br />
8<br />
免 费 活 动<br />
在 繁 华 的 迪 拜 , 您 可 以 参 加 丰 富<br />
多 彩 的 免 费 活 动 。 老 城 区 是 您 不<br />
可 错 过 的 一 站 : 乘 坐 出 租 车 前 往 历 史 悠<br />
久 的 巴 斯 塔 基 亚 地 区 。 在 这 里 , 您 可 以<br />
放 心 地 四 处 闲 逛 , 参 观 古 老 的 阿 联 酋 房<br />
屋 及 其 砂 岩 “ 风 塔 ”。 然 后 , 于 小 溪 处<br />
左 转 , 沿 着 溪 水 来 到 纺 织 市 场 , 欣 赏<br />
五 颜 六 色 的 纺 织 品 。 只 需 花 费 1 迪 拉 姆<br />
(28 KES), 即 可 乘 坐 水 上 出 租 车 穿 越 市<br />
场 。 跟 随 购 物 人 群 一 路 前 行 , 您 将 看 到<br />
清 真 寺 、 各 式 商 店 、 蜿 蜒 曲 折 的 香 料 、<br />
黄 金 和 香 水 市 场 。<br />
如 果 您 心 情 不 错 , 可 以 加 入 当 地 的 外 国<br />
人 群 , 在 风 筝 海 滩 ( 卓 美 亚 海 滩 的 公 共<br />
沙 滩 ) 欣 赏 哈 利 法 塔 的 壮 观 美 景 , 在 小<br />
吃 摊 、 冰 沙 / 果 汁 摊 选 购 美 食 , 度 过 愉<br />
悦 的 上 午 时 光 。 随 后 , 您 可 以 前 往 巴 斯<br />
塔 基 亚 的 Majlis 画 廊 , 欣 赏 当 地 艺 术<br />
作 品 及 油 画 。 这 里 有 很 多 中 东 风 格 的 作<br />
品 , 还 有 一 座 阴 凉 的 庭 院 。 此 外 , 您 还<br />
可 以 参 观 骆 驼 比 赛 , 为 驼 背 上 的 英 雄 呐<br />
喊 助 威 。 迪 拜 非 常 重 视 这 项 历 史 悠 久 的<br />
体 育 赛 事 ( 酋 长 拥 有 多 匹 价 值 不 菲 的 骆<br />
驼 )。 在 这 座 旅 游 城 市 , 迪 拜 码 头 ( 先<br />
进 而 奇 特 的 摩 天 大 楼 和 巨 大 的 游 艇 ) 和<br />
JBR Walk( 果 汁 和 咖 啡 吧 、 商 店 、 白<br />
沙 公 共 沙 滩 ) 堪 称 闲 庭 漫 步 、 看 云 卷 云<br />
舒 的 最 佳 场 所 。<br />
✈ 预 订 航 班<br />
见 第 56 页
HABARI /89
SAFARI NJEMA / 91<br />
At Victoria Falls, peak levels<br />
see up to 500 million litres of<br />
water plummet almost 100<br />
metres downwards every minute.<br />
✈ To book flights to Victoria<br />
Falls go to kenya-airways.com.<br />
Safari Njema<br />
Direct flights to<br />
Victoria Falls<br />
Starting May 1st, Kenya<br />
Airways will offer new<br />
direct flights between Nairobi<br />
and Victoria Falls, with a<br />
final destination in Cape<br />
Town. Victoria Falls will be<br />
KQ’s 52nd international<br />
destination, and its second<br />
in Zimbabwe, after Harare.<br />
The new flight path will also<br />
provide a direct service<br />
between Victoria Falls<br />
and Cape Town. KQ will<br />
become the first carrier to<br />
offer the direct service. It<br />
will also be the only airline<br />
to serve both Livingstone<br />
and Victoria Falls, giving<br />
travellers the option to<br />
land in either Zambia or<br />
Zimbabwe.<br />
✈ CATCH THIS FLIGHT<br />
The Nairobi-Victoria Falls-Cape Town<br />
route flies on an Embraer E190,<br />
which will operate three times a<br />
week, on Monday, Thursday and<br />
Saturday. Flights depart from<br />
Nairobi at 7:20a.m., arriving in<br />
Victoria Falls at 9:30a.m., then<br />
depart from Victoria Falls at<br />
10:20a.m. to arrive in Cape Town<br />
at 1:25p.m. Return flights leave<br />
Cape Town at 2:15p.m., arrive<br />
at Victoria Falls at 5:10p.m., and<br />
depart Victoria Falls at 6p.m., to<br />
return to Nairobi at 10p.m.<br />
Hollandse Hoogte
KQ launched a carbon<br />
offset programme in<br />
2011, the first African<br />
airline to do so.<br />
News<br />
Awards<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 93<br />
✈ KQ serves more than 10,000<br />
meals on board, making it the<br />
largest restaurant in Kenya.<br />
African Cargo Airline of the Year<br />
Kenya Airways Cargo has cemented its position as a leading<br />
global player in the air cargo industry by winning the African<br />
Cargo Airline of the Year Award <strong>2017</strong>. KQ Cargo transports<br />
over 160 tonnes of cargo annually across the airline’s network<br />
in Africa.<br />
The award comes on the back of the airline being named<br />
Africa’s Leading Airline less than a year ago, at the World<br />
Travel Awards in 2016. It was also named Best Business Class<br />
for the fourth year running at the same awards. Kenya<br />
Airways will continue to expand and improve its services.<br />
Getty Images<br />
Imports and exports<br />
Blooming<br />
Business<br />
Kenya Airways Cargo is now exporting Kenyan cut<br />
flowers to Australia.<br />
The airline’s cargo carrier is planning to carry more than 30<br />
tonnes of flowers to the continent every month, making them<br />
available to key flower markets in cities such as Sydney and<br />
Melbourne. A partnership between Kenya Airways Cargo and<br />
Qantas Airways, Australia’s largest airline, has enabled the<br />
new service. “This is a major game-changer for Kenya, in<br />
terms of increasing trade exports of flowers to non-traditional<br />
markets,” says Kenya Airways Cargo Sales Manager Patricia<br />
Odida. “This partnership opens up the Australian market<br />
for exporters and is a business opportunity for us.” Kenya<br />
Airways Cargo continues to expand its business in the<br />
fast-growing flower industry by working to open up a new<br />
gateway in Bangkok, and doing business with China.<br />
Quote<br />
“I am because<br />
WE are and, since<br />
we are, therefore<br />
I am”<br />
− John S. Mbiti −<br />
Kenyan philosopher & writer
94 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Want to know the carbon<br />
emission of your flight?<br />
Visit climatecare.org<br />
and click on the<br />
carbon calculator.<br />
Aircraft maintenance<br />
Building Knowledge<br />
News<br />
✈ Kenya Airways now flies to<br />
Paris more often, with six direct<br />
flights each week.<br />
Kenya Airways’ technical team is being trained and certified at<br />
Etihad Airways Engineering in Abu Dhabi, in order to perform<br />
routine mandatory C-checks on its new Dreamliner fleet.<br />
C-checks (comprehensive maintenance checks) are part of the<br />
integration programme of the new fleet of Boeing 787-8 aircrafts.<br />
Trip tips<br />
Flying Value Pass<br />
KQ is introducing a ticketing service designed for frequent<br />
business flyers. Through the new “Flight Pass” service, you<br />
can buy anywhere from 6 to 500 tickets at a single time for a<br />
guaranteed price. The tickets can be used by different people,<br />
for example your employees or colleagues on a company trip.<br />
Sustainability<br />
Better Health<br />
The Wildlife Works Kasigau Corridor project in<br />
Kenya is making a significant impact on nature and<br />
local health. By simply ticking a box when you book a<br />
ticket at Kenya Airways, you can offset your emissions<br />
from that flight and reduce your carbon footprint.<br />
Quote<br />
“When you offset your<br />
carbon footprint through<br />
KQ, your money helps to<br />
improve community<br />
health facilities”<br />
− Emily, Wildlife Works<br />
community relations officer –<br />
The Kasigau Corridor REDD+ project run by Wildlife Works<br />
protects more than 500,000 acres of highly threatened forest,<br />
securing the wildlife migration corridor between Tsavo East<br />
and Tsavo West national parks. The project benefits more than<br />
110,000 rural Kenyans in the communities that share the same<br />
environment. The project has also created many jobs, and all<br />
280 local Wildlife Works employees receive health<br />
insurance, covering treatment and medication for illnesses<br />
such as HIV and Malaria. Free doctors visits are available to<br />
everyone, and female employees may speak to female doctors.<br />
Educational seminars about health issues are also offered yearround.<br />
One of the leading causes of poor health is lack of<br />
access to clean water. To address this issue, the community<br />
allocates a large proportion of its proceeds to improving water<br />
access. Initiatives have included building a rock catchment<br />
that provides water to 7,000 local people and a roof catchment<br />
for a local dispensary.<br />
~ The KQ offset programme, run by ClimateCare, is approved by the<br />
International Air Transport Association as a way to take responsibility<br />
for unavoidable carbon emissions during your flight. If you want to<br />
offset your flight on landing, visit wildlifeworks.com/shopcarbon/
Did you forget to give your<br />
Flying Blue number when<br />
booking? You can reclaim<br />
your Miles up to six months<br />
after your flight.<br />
Flying Blue<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 95<br />
✈ With Flying Blue, you earn Award<br />
Miles and use them to treat yourself to<br />
a flight or an upgrade.<br />
Membership levels<br />
Miles!<br />
Miles!<br />
Miles!<br />
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />
Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or<br />
a SkyTeam partner. You can then redeem these Miles against<br />
KQ-operated flights or an upgrade.<br />
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying<br />
flight you take, you will earn Level Miles that will take you to a higher<br />
level. When you first enrol, you will be awarded Ivory status, which<br />
progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately Platinum. The more you travel<br />
with us or our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which<br />
results in you earning more Award Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by<br />
Kenya Airways and to destinations covered by SkyTeam partner airlines.<br />
Your accumulated Award Miles are valid for twenty months, which can<br />
be extended with a flight made on Kenya Airways or one of our<br />
SkyTeam partners at least once every twenty months. The total number<br />
of Miles credited to your account depends on the distance flown and<br />
travel class chosen.<br />
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />
1<br />
Exchange<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />
Business Class.<br />
2<br />
Check<br />
Your choice of destination determines the<br />
number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So<br />
please check if you have sufficient Miles for your<br />
choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is<br />
advisable to have flexible date options in case your<br />
initial choice is not available.<br />
3<br />
Redeem<br />
Once you have made your choice, you can<br />
redeem your Award Miles in several ways:<br />
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in<br />
Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />
or +254 711 024747.<br />
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to<br />
“Flying Blue-Award Booking”.<br />
C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to “Spend Miles-<br />
Award Order Form”. For further information contact<br />
us via kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />
4<br />
Tax<br />
Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />
will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so<br />
via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any<br />
Kenya Airways office.<br />
5<br />
Easy does it<br />
Five steps to make<br />
the most of your Miles.<br />
Ticket<br />
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />
will be sent to you at your stated email address.<br />
~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the<br />
event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex<br />
Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the<br />
Award Miles.<br />
Getty images<br />
~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business<br />
Class when you have already purchased an Economy<br />
Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for<br />
all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in<br />
Business Class.
WE KNOW THAT SOMETIMES GETTING BACK QUICKLY<br />
IS AS IMPORTANT AS GETTING THERE.<br />
With 20 SkyTeam member airlines and a large number of partners to connect you to the world,<br />
travelling is seamless. Covering more than 1,060 destinations worldwide and providing access to over<br />
670 exclusive lounges, SkyTeam makes it easy to get wherever you need to go. Visit skyteam.com
SkyTeam has a total of<br />
17 different Frequent Flyer<br />
Programmes and operates 672<br />
lounges worldwide.<br />
SkyTeam<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 97<br />
SkyTeam serves 200 million<br />
frequent flyers via<br />
20 member airlines.<br />
Discover what’s new<br />
Loyalty<br />
Innovations<br />
At SkyTeam, making your travel experience<br />
ever more seamless is at the heart of everything<br />
we do. It’s what makes us the leading global<br />
alliance for air travel. Here are four innovations<br />
that ensure smoother connectivity between our<br />
members’ frequent flyer programmes.<br />
1<br />
Accrue miles around the globe<br />
Earning Miles while flying with SkyTeam is now<br />
even easier. Simply input your frequent flyer number<br />
on booking or at check-in. Your Miles will be<br />
automatically credited to your account when you fly<br />
with any of our twenty SkyTeam member airlines.<br />
2<br />
Always get your miles<br />
Every Mile counts, so we’ll help you collect the ones<br />
you thought you had lost. Forgot to enter your frequent<br />
flyer number before departure? No problem, your Miles<br />
will be automatically credited for any SkyTeam<br />
members’ flight, even after arrival. Simply go to your<br />
loyalty programme’s website and enter your travel<br />
information. Your request will be confirmed within<br />
seconds and your Miles will be added to your account.<br />
3<br />
Rewards a few clicks away<br />
System integration between our members allows<br />
you to redeem your Miles for award tickets on any<br />
SkyTeam-operated flight with ease. In just a few clicks,<br />
you can book your award ticket directly on your loyalty<br />
programme’s website and choose from any of the<br />
17,000+ SkyTeam flights operated daily.<br />
4<br />
Alliance-wide status<br />
You earned the perks and we’ll deliver them<br />
wherever you fly. That means the benefits you have as<br />
an Elite or Elite Plus customer will be recognised by<br />
all our members.<br />
~ Stay up-to-date on the latest insights, services and rewards on<br />
skyteam.com.<br />
Text: Nils Elzenga
98 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Global Network<br />
London<br />
GREAT BRITAIN<br />
THE NETHERLANDS<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Paris<br />
FRANCE<br />
SENEGAL<br />
Dakar<br />
Bamako<br />
Freetown<br />
SIERRA LEONE<br />
Monrovia<br />
LIBERIA<br />
MALI<br />
COTE BENIN Abuja<br />
D'IVOIRE GHANA Lagos<br />
Abidjan Accra<br />
Cotonou<br />
NIGERIA<br />
SUDAN<br />
SAUDI ARABIA<br />
Jeddah<br />
Djibouti<br />
DJIBOUTI<br />
CENTRAL SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA<br />
CAMEROON<br />
AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />
Juba<br />
Douala<br />
Yaoundé<br />
Bangui<br />
UGANDA KENYA<br />
Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu<br />
Kigali NAIROBI<br />
RWANDA<br />
Brazzaville DEMOCRATIC<br />
Malindi<br />
REPUBLIC OF Bujumbura Kilimanjaro Mombasa<br />
Kinshasa THE CONGO BURUNDI<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Luanda<br />
Khartoum<br />
Addis<br />
Ababa<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
Moroni/COMOROS<br />
ANGOLA<br />
Lubumbashi<br />
MALAWI<br />
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />
Ndola Lilongwe<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
Lusaka<br />
Blantyre<br />
Nampula<br />
Livingstone<br />
Harare<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Antananarivo<br />
Dubai<br />
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />
Mahé<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
Mumbai<br />
INDIA<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Gaborone<br />
Johannesburg<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Maputo<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
SOUTH<br />
AFRICA<br />
Chantal van Wessel/ Vizualism<br />
Cape Town
SAFARI NJEMA / 99<br />
Kenya Airways Fleet<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
CHINA<br />
Hanoi<br />
VIETNAM<br />
Bangkok<br />
THAILAND<br />
Guangzhou<br />
Hong Kong<br />
HONG KONG<br />
Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />
Boeing 737-800<br />
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />
Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Embraer 190<br />
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m
100 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Kenya’s Great Rift Valley<br />
spans 8,000 km<br />
and was formed<br />
20 million years ago.<br />
Welcome to Kenya<br />
✈ KQ exceeded three<br />
million passengers in 2011<br />
– and counting!<br />
Practical tips<br />
What & How<br />
Getting around<br />
On Arrival<br />
TO THE CITY<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />
VISA<br />
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />
the moment of entry.<br />
Health<br />
Emergency services<br />
Dial 999. Note that<br />
ambulance services are<br />
mostly private. Services<br />
include: St Johns<br />
Ambulance +254 72 161<br />
1555 or Kenya Red<br />
Cross Ambulance<br />
+254 71 771 4938.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Nairobi and Mombasa<br />
have good hospitals.<br />
Medical expenses<br />
Make sure you have<br />
adequate travel health<br />
insurance and accessible<br />
funds to cover the cost of<br />
any medical treatment.<br />
Consultations and<br />
treatments will have to<br />
be paid for at the time,<br />
and the costs claimed<br />
back later.<br />
General<br />
Voltage<br />
240 volts AC, using<br />
three-square-pin,<br />
13-amp-type plugs.<br />
Security<br />
It is advisable not to walk<br />
alone in isolated areas<br />
in towns or on beaches,<br />
particularly after dark.<br />
Tipping<br />
Tips are appreciated. Most<br />
hotels/restaurants add a<br />
10 percent service charge.<br />
Water<br />
It is wise to drink or use<br />
only boiled or bottled water,<br />
and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />
Self-drive<br />
Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />
side of the road, and<br />
most cars are right-hand<br />
drive. A current driving<br />
licence with photograph is<br />
accepted for up to a threemonth<br />
stay.<br />
Public transport<br />
Nairobi is the only city with<br />
an effective municipal bus<br />
service. Local (private)<br />
matatus are the main<br />
means of getting around,<br />
and most cities and towns<br />
have plenty of services.<br />
Photography<br />
Taking photographs of<br />
official buildings, including<br />
embassies, can lead to<br />
detention. Photography is<br />
also prohibited at airports.<br />
Embassies & consulates<br />
All embassies are<br />
located in Nairobi.<br />
ID<br />
You must carry a valid form<br />
of ID with you at all times.<br />
Post office<br />
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />
Telephone/internet<br />
Phone cards may be<br />
bought from post offices<br />
or international call<br />
offices. Emails can be sent<br />
from most hotels.<br />
Money matters<br />
Currency<br />
Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />
Currency regulations<br />
There are no restrictions on<br />
the movement of currency<br />
into or out of Kenya for<br />
currency transactions.<br />
Banking<br />
Banks are generally open<br />
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays;<br />
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />
Saturdays. Banks in<br />
coastal towns open<br />
and close half an hour<br />
earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />
international VISA cards.<br />
Credit cards<br />
Visa and MasterCard are<br />
widely accepted.<br />
Hotel bill payment<br />
Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />
convertible currency.<br />
Most hotels also accept<br />
credit cards.<br />
Getty Images
SAFARI NJEMA / 101<br />
SOUTH-<br />
SUDAN<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
Lokichokio<br />
Muruasigar<br />
2149 m<br />
Songot 1755 m<br />
Central<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Namoratunga<br />
Stones<br />
Lodwar<br />
LAKE<br />
TURKANA<br />
Sibiloi<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
CHALBI DESERT<br />
Moyale<br />
Malka Mari<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
LAKE<br />
VICTORIA<br />
UGANDA<br />
Nasolot<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
TANZANIA<br />
South<br />
Turkana<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Masai Mara<br />
National Reserve<br />
South<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
Nairobi<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
LAKE<br />
MAGADI<br />
Shompole<br />
Conservancy<br />
Loiyangalani<br />
Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Losai<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Marsabit<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Maralal<br />
Saiwa<br />
National Matthew’s Peak<br />
Swamp<br />
Sanctuary 2375 m<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Kaisungua<br />
Maralal<br />
Reserve<br />
Kitale<br />
3167 m<br />
Samburu<br />
National<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
Kerio Valley<br />
Reserve<br />
Shaba National<br />
4322 m<br />
National Reserve<br />
Reserve<br />
ELDORET<br />
Archer’s Post<br />
LAKE BARINGA<br />
Kakamega<br />
Buffalo Springs<br />
Forest Reserve<br />
Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />
National<br />
Meru<br />
Reserve<br />
Kakamega<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Ndere Island<br />
Nanyuki<br />
National Park<br />
KISUMU<br />
Meru<br />
Mt Londiani<br />
Rusinga Island<br />
Kericho<br />
3000 m<br />
North<br />
Nakuru<br />
Mt Kenya Kitu<br />
Lake Nakuru<br />
5199 m<br />
National<br />
Mfangango<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Nyerri Embu<br />
Reserve<br />
Island<br />
Kisii<br />
Muranga’a Mwea<br />
Ruma<br />
Hell’s Gate<br />
National<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
Longonot National Park<br />
Thika<br />
Migori<br />
Narok<br />
NAIROBI<br />
Oi Donyo National Park<br />
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />
OFFICES & AGENTS<br />
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />
KENYA<br />
Voi<br />
Kora<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Kajiado<br />
West<br />
Chyulu Game<br />
Conservation<br />
Area<br />
Amboseli<br />
National Park<br />
Tsavo<br />
East<br />
National<br />
Tsavo West<br />
Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />
Rahole<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Mwaluganje<br />
Elephant<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Shimba Hills<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Garissa<br />
MOMBASA<br />
Wajir<br />
Tana River<br />
Primate National<br />
Reserve<br />
Arabuko<br />
Malindi Marine<br />
Sokoke<br />
National Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
MALINDI<br />
Watamu Marine<br />
National Park<br />
Kilifi<br />
Diani<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Boni<br />
National<br />
Arawale Reserve<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Dodori<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
SOMALIA<br />
INDIAN<br />
OCEAN<br />
100 km
Wangari Maathai, the founder of<br />
Kenya’s Green Belt Movement, an<br />
environmental group, became the<br />
first African woman to win the Nobel<br />
Peace Prize in 2004.<br />
Magical Kenya<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 103<br />
✈ Find a full list of Kenya’s<br />
eco-certified hotels and camps at<br />
ecotourismkenya.org/facility.php<br />
Alamy<br />
Sustainable Tourism<br />
Taking Care of Kenya<br />
Text: Nils Elzenga<br />
This is the year of Sustainable<br />
Tourism for Development,<br />
according to the United Nations.<br />
Kenya is already doing its part<br />
to support sustainable tourism.<br />
The UN General Assembly declared<br />
<strong>2017</strong> as the International Year of<br />
Sustainable Tourism for Development,<br />
calling tourist partners all over the world<br />
to help reach the goals set by the<br />
UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable<br />
Development. These seventeen sustainable<br />
development goals include ending<br />
poverty and hunger, achieving gender<br />
equality and reducing economic inequality<br />
within countries. The tourism<br />
sector can play an important role in<br />
meeting these goals, says UN Secretary-General,<br />
Antonio Guterres. “Every<br />
day, more than three million tourists<br />
cross international borders,” he says.<br />
“Tourism is a pillar of economies, a passport<br />
to prosperity and a transformative<br />
force for improving lives. The world must<br />
harness the power of tourism as we strive<br />
to carry out the UN’s 2030 Agenda.”<br />
KENYA’S ROLE<br />
The Kenya Tourism Board has signed<br />
on to participate in this platform, and<br />
issued its Sustainable Tourism Report in<br />
2016, stating that “sustainability is no<br />
longer a distant phenomenon but a<br />
reality that all destinations must face.”<br />
Kenya has been involved for many<br />
years in efforts to promote responsible<br />
tourism. In 2002, the Eco-Rating<br />
Scheme certification tool was established<br />
to designate accommodations with<br />
out-standing environmental and<br />
socio-cultural practices.<br />
ECO-RATED STAYS<br />
There are more than 100 eco-certified<br />
accommodations in Kenya so far.<br />
Gold-rated facilities include the<br />
Porini Amboseli Camp (Selenkay<br />
Conservancy), Elsa’s Kopje Lodge<br />
(Meru National Park) and Medina<br />
Palms Hotel (coast). Other tourist<br />
destinations such as the Lewa Wildlife<br />
Conservancy, Ol Pejeta Conservancy<br />
and Mara Naboisho Conservancy<br />
have won prestigious awards for their<br />
sustainable practices. Together, visitors<br />
and locals can preserve Kenya in all<br />
her glory.
SAFARI NJEMA / 105<br />
Cargo<br />
Seafood<br />
Bountiful Catch<br />
Text: Nils Elzenga Photo: Alamy<br />
Madagascar has a spectacular<br />
underwater landscape and plenty<br />
of coastline to support the<br />
thriving population of sea life.<br />
So it is not surprising that it is the prime<br />
source of live seafood, including king<br />
crabs and lobsters, that Kenya Airways<br />
Cargo transports daily to destinations<br />
across Asia. “China is our largest<br />
market,” explains Peter Musola,<br />
Commercial Manager of Kenya<br />
Airways Cargo. “But we also deliver to<br />
Hong Kong, Thailand, Japan and<br />
South Korea.”<br />
Mozambique, separated from<br />
Madagascar by a mere channel, also<br />
exports increasing amounts of live<br />
seafood, as do both Tanzania and<br />
Kenya, but Musola is optimistic:<br />
“Demand outstrips supply at the<br />
moment,” he says, “so we really expect<br />
exponential growth in this promising<br />
trade. And everyone involved will<br />
benefit from it.”<br />
Seafood from African coastal countries<br />
like Madagascar and Mozambique<br />
is renowned for its high quality and<br />
delicious taste. The tight logistical<br />
planning provided by Kenya Airways<br />
Cargo in transporting seafood around<br />
the world contributes to its freshness<br />
upon arrival. Kenya Airways Cargo is<br />
proud of its role in delivering fresh<br />
catch to overseas customers, and the<br />
company is positioned to transport<br />
more seafood – both fresh and farmed<br />
– as local supplies increase.<br />
How seafood flies<br />
Kenya Airways transports live<br />
seafood – both fresh and farmed<br />
– daily from Madagascar to Kenya<br />
in its Brazilian Embraer passenger<br />
aircraft (2-3 tonnes), and weekly<br />
during peak season between<br />
November and February in its Boeing<br />
737-300 Freighter cargo aircraft<br />
(15-20 tonnes). From Kenya, the<br />
seafood continues its journey to Asia<br />
in Boeing 787 Dreamliners.
106 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
KQ won the Best<br />
Business Class in<br />
Africa for four years<br />
in a row from World<br />
Travel Awards.<br />
Get Comfortable<br />
✈ KQ received an International<br />
Safety Award in 2014 from the<br />
British Safety Council.<br />
What you need to know<br />
Flight Mode<br />
Safety<br />
Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />
and mobile phones may not be used during<br />
take-off and landing.<br />
Hand luggage<br />
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />
will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />
meal and take some gentle exercise<br />
before your flight.<br />
Travel<br />
On The Move<br />
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />
3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />
up and walking in the aisle when<br />
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />
shoulders and neck.<br />
4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />
Quote<br />
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />
drink plenty of water and moderate<br />
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />
“Whatever you are looking<br />
for is also looking for you”<br />
– Sahndra Fon Dufe –<br />
Cameroon-born actress and author<br />
5 When travelling across time zones<br />
your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />
some time to adjust to new night and<br />
day cycles when you arrive.<br />
6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />
possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />
body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />
Seat adjustments<br />
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />
landing.<br />
Infants<br />
Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />
Inflight service<br />
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />
are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />
spirits and soft drinks.<br />
Entertainment<br />
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />
movies and music is available on our long- and<br />
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />
guide in Msafiri.<br />
Take-off<br />
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />
a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />
during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />
Landing<br />
After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />
to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />
engines are off and the doors are open.