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Télécharger le pdf - Fugues

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Para el amor de Mexico<br />

126 <strong>Fugues</strong>.com février 2011<br />

"I'll snort a line of coke off his ass!" an<br />

American reporter cracked about the lithe,<br />

hot men in Puerto Vallarta as a bunch of<br />

shvitzing international travel<br />

journalists - including myself<br />

- enjoyed ice-cold<br />

Pacificos atop the<br />

mountainous<br />

Haramara Retreat<br />

on the Riviera<br />

Nayarit on<br />

Mexico's Pacific<br />

Coast.<br />

"How about champagne and Valium?" someone else piped up.<br />

One journalist (and doctor from Mexico City) rated Cialis and Viagra-fuel<strong>le</strong>d hard-ons four out of four. "[But] I didn't<br />

bring my prescription pad!"<br />

All this fabulous unholiness took place in the midd<strong>le</strong> of a holistic retreat made famous by owner Sajeela Delaborbol<strong>le</strong>,<br />

her staff (including Liliane, the back-pain specialist hired by Russia's Vladimir Putin) and her famous guests, including<br />

regulars like Hollywood star Ali McGraw.<br />

"Is there anybody there now?" McGraw asked Sajeela before<br />

she f<strong>le</strong>w in to Puerto Vallarta last year. "No? Then I'm<br />

coming!"<br />

Puerto Vallarta has long been one of the world's Top Ten<br />

choice gay destinations. Now, with its international airport,<br />

it is also the southern entry point to Mexico's Riviera Nayarit,<br />

which tourism officials here have steadily been developing<br />

since 2002 with their long-term Tourism Corridor<br />

program for Puerto Vallarta and the state of Nayarit.<br />

The Riviera Nayarit is all about "sustainab<strong>le</strong> tourism." In<br />

other words, green ecotourism. And the hotels, spas and<br />

retreats are all moving in.<br />

At the Haramara Retreat - one stop on this first gay press<br />

trip in the history of Mexico - Sajeela told me, "You have<br />

to go to Africa or Bora Bora to find unspoi<strong>le</strong>d beauty like<br />

this. [Many] peop<strong>le</strong> no longer want to go to places that are<br />

destroying nature."<br />

So we found ourselves in the small town of San Blas<br />

("Sandblast!" one journalist quipped) where the local La<br />

Tovara National Park boasts over 600 different species of<br />

birds (including hawks, pelicans, blue herons and papa<br />

jays) living in mangroves fil<strong>le</strong>d with giant crocodi<strong>le</strong>s.<br />

Though the meanest creatures in the mangroves are by far<br />

the black mosquitoes!<br />

January is the most recommended time of year to visit La<br />

Tovara National Park, and wha<strong>le</strong> watching season (notably<br />

humpback wha<strong>le</strong>s) in the huge Banderas Bay - which<br />

stretches the <strong>le</strong>ngth of the Riviera Nayarit - is from Dec. 15<br />

to April 15.<br />

San Blas is also home to renowned Mexican chef Betty<br />

Vazquez Gonza<strong>le</strong>z's awesome restaurant El Delfin (part of<br />

the Hotel Garza Canola) that was a featured guest in<br />

Puerto Vallarta's recent 16th annual International Gourmet<br />

festival (www.festivalgourmet.com).<br />

"We have to remind peop<strong>le</strong> that Mexican food is not as<br />

spicy as they think," Betty explains, whose side dish of<br />

ù PHOTO ROBERT LALIBERTÉ<br />

ù PHOTOs OLIVIER BLOUIN

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