Bernese Oberland

142
BERNESE OBERLAND KANDERSTEG
and Interlaken Ost (Sfr12.20, 40 minutes, via
Brienz). In summer, buses and cars can take the
pass southeast (to Andermatt), but the road
southwest over Grosse Scheidegg (to
Grindelwald) is closed to private vehicles.
WEST BERNESE
OBERLAND
At the western side of the Jungfrau are
Simmental and Frutigland, dominated by
two wildly beautiful river valleys, the Simme
and the Kander. Further west is Saanenland,
famous for the ritzy ski resort of Gstaad.
Kandersteg
POP 1200 / ELEV 1176M
Turn up in Kandersteg wearing anything
but muddy boots and you’ll attract a few
odd looks. Hiking is this town’s raison
d’être, with 550km of surrounding trails. An
amphitheatre of spiky peaks studded with
glaciers and jewel-coloured lakes creates
a sublime natural backdrop to the rustic
village of dark-timber chalets.
Jagged mountains frame the impossibly
turquoise Oeschinensee (www.oeschinensee
.ch). A cable car (one way/return Sfr16/23)
takes you to within 20 minutes of the lake
by foot. Once there, it takes an hour to hike
back down to Kandersteg.
Kandersteg has some fi rst-rate hiking in
its wild backyard on the cantonal border
with Valais. A superb trek is the high-level
Gemmi Pass (2314m) to Leukerbad, involving
a steep descent. Alternatively, you could
walk through fl ower-strewn pastures in the
wildlife-rich Üschenetäli, or trudge 5km up
to Blausee (adult/child Sfr5/2) and its nature
park to eat fresh organic trout by the shore.
For more of a challenge, test the 3½-hour
via ferrata at Allmenalp. Equipment can
be hired at the valley station for Sfr20.
In winter there are more than 50km of
cross-country ski trails, including the
iced-over Oeschinensee. The limited 15km
of downhill skiing is suited to beginners,
and day passes cost Sfr39. Kandersteg’s
frozen waterfalls attract ice climbers and the
village hosts the spectacular Ice Climbing
Festival in January. Bergsteigen
Kandersteg (%033 675 01 01; www.bergsteigen
-kandersteg.ch) off ers guided via ferrata tours
in summer and ice climbing in winter; visit
the website for times and prices.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Kandersteg’s popularity with hikers means
there’s lots of cheaper accommodation, but
many places close between seasons. Ask for
the Guest Card for reductions on activities.
oThe Hayloft B&B $
(%033 675 03 50; www.thehayloft.ch; Altes
Bütschels Hus; s/d/tr Sfr50/96/117) Picture a
dark-wood, 500-year-old chalet snuggled
against the hillside, fl ower-strewn meadows
where cows graze placidly, views of waterfalls
and glaciers – ahhh… this place sure is
idyllic! The farm-turned-B&B is in the capable
hands of Peter and Kerry, who welcome
guests like members of the family and serve
delicious breakfasts and dinners (Sfr20).
Anchor the dog and Snorkel the cat are
a throwback to the pair’s round-the-world
sailing venture in 1993. See the website for
directions.
Hotel zur Post HOTEL $
(%033 675 12 58; www.hotel-zur-post.ch, s Sfr55-
70, d Sfr100-120) Cheery and central, these
good-value digs off er simple rooms with
balconies. Downstairs the restaurant has a
menu packed with Swiss staples like fondue
and rösti (mains Sfr18 to Sfr35). Sit on the
terrace when the sun’s out.
Hotel Victoria Ritter HISTORIC HOTEL $$
(%033 675 80 00; www.hotel-victoria.ch; s
Sfr130-180, d Sfr220-330; psc) This onetime
coach tavern is now an elegant hotel,
run by the Platzer family. The Victoria
side has traditional 19th-century decor,
while the snug wood-panelled rooms in
the Ritter are more rustic. There’s a fi ne
restaurant, an indoor pool and sauna, a
children’s club and playground.
Ruedihus HISTORIC HOTEL $$
(%033 675 81 81; www.doldenhorn-ruedihus.ch;
s/d from Sfr140/270; p) Oozing 250 years of
history from every creaking beam, this
archetypal Alpine chalet is a stunner.
Romantic and warm, the cottage-style rooms
feature low ceilings, antique painted furniture
and four-poster beds. Home-grown
herbs are used to fl avour dishes served in the
cosy restaurant (mains Sfr34 to Sfr40).
Camping Rendez-Vous CAMPGROUND $
(%033 675 15 34; www.camping-kandersteg
.ch; sites per adult/child/car Sfr7.50/4.20/3, tent
Sfr8-16) At the foot of Oeschinen, this green
and pleasant site, open year-round, has a
barbecue hut, shop and restaurant.