Bernese Oberland

140
BERNESE OBERLAND MEIRINGEN
child Sfr20/10; h10am-5pm mid-Apr–end Oct),
set in 80-hectare grounds east of Brienz.
Authentically reconstructed farming hamlets
take you on an architectural stroll
around Switzerland, with 100 century-old
buildings from humble wooden huts in
Valais to hip-roofed farmhouses in the Bernese
Oberland. Demonstrations from bobbin
lace-making to cow herding showcase
Swiss crafts and traditions. Picnickers can
buy wood-oven bread, homemade cheese
and sausage at the shop.
There are two entrances and car parks at
each. A bus runs at least hourly from Brienz
train station to Ballenberg (Sfr4.20, 20
minutes).
GIESSBACHFÄLLE
Illuminating the fi r forests like a spotlight in
the dark, the misty Giessbachfälle (Giessbach
Falls) plummet 500m over 14 rocky
ridges. Europe’s oldest funicular, dating to
1879, creaks up from the boat station (one
way/return Sfr7/9), but it’s only a 15-minute
walk up to the most striking section of the
falls. Giessbach is easily reached by boat (return
from Brienz Sfr16.80, from Interlaken
Ost Sfr37).
Overlooking Brienzersee and the thundering
falls from its hilltop perch, the lavish
19th-century Grand Hotel Giessbach
(%033 952 25 25; www.giessbach.ch; s Sfr150-190,
d Sfr240-410; hlate Apr–mid-Oct) is a romantic
retreat with antique-fi lled rooms, polished
service and a restaurant with far-reaching
views from its terrace.
EAST BERNESE
OBERLAND
Grab your walking boots, do a little Sherlock
Holmes-style detective work and you’ll unearth
natural wonders in the Hasli Valley
(Haslital), east of the Jungfrau Region, from
slot-like gorges to Europe’s highest hanging
bridge over the Trift glacier. Base yourself
here if you want to embark on tours across
the Grimsel and Susten passes.
Meiringen
POP 4600 / ELEV 595M
When the writer Arthur Conan Doyle left
his fi ctional detective Sherlock Holmes for
dead at the base of the Reichenbach Falls
near Meiringen, he ensured that a corner of
Switzerland would forever remain English
eccentric. Every 4 May, fans in tweed deerstalker
hats and capes gather here for the
anniversary of Holmes’ ‘death’.
Espionage aside, Meiringen’s claim to
fame is as the birthplace of those airy eggwhite
marvels that grace sweet trolleys from
Boston to Brighton – meringues.
1 Sights & Activities
The Haslital is an outdoorsy wonderland,
laced with 300km of marked hiking and
cycling trails that lead to wild valleys, waterfalls
and high-alpine moors. The 2.7km marmot
trail is a kid favourite. The tourist offi ce
has E-bike rental for Sfr30/50 for a half-/
full day.
When the fl akes fall, beginners and intermediates
whizz down the region’s 60km of
slopes; a day ski pass costs Sfr55. Families
can stomp along glittering winter walking
trails and race on sled runs like the 5.5km
one to Grosse Scheidegg (day pass adult/
child Sfr37/24).
oReichenbachfälle WATERFALL
Gazing over the mighty Reichenbach Falls,
where the cataract plunges 250m to the
ground with a deafening roar, you can see
how Arthur Conan Doyle thought them
perfect for dispatching his increasingly
burdensome hero, Sherlock Holmes. In 1891,
in The Final Problem, Conan Doyle acted
like one of his own villains and pushed both
Holmes and Dr Moriarty over the precipice
here. Fans have fl ocked to the site ever since.
To reach the falls, take the funicular (www
.reichenbachfall.ch; one way/return adult Sfr7/10,
child Sfr6/8; h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9-11.45am &
1.15-5.45pm May, Jun, Sep & Oct) which rises
from Willigen, south of the Aare River, to the
top. It takes an hour to wander back down
to Meiringen. Alternatively, take the steep
path up the side of the falls to the village
of Zwirgi. At Gasthaus Zwirgi, you can rent
trotti-bikes (adult/child Sfr20/16) to scoot
back down to Meiringen.
Aareschlucht GORGE
(www.aareschlucht.ch; adult/child Sfr7.50/4;
h8am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Apr-Jun & Sep-
Oct) Less than 2km from the town is the
narrow, 1.4km-long Aare Gorge, where
tunnels and galleries lead past milky-blue
torrents and limestone overhangs. The
canyon is spectacularly illuminated on
Thursday evenings in summer.
To make your way here, take the
Meiringen-Innertkirchen-Bahn (one way/