Bernese Oberland

138
BERNESE OBERLAND AROUND LAKE THUN
BUNKER MENTALITY
Ever wondered why the radio plays on
deep in the heart of a tunnel? Riddled
with more holes than an Emmental
cheese, Switzerland is full of
subterranean surprises, including the
formerly top-secret WWII bunkers at
Faulensee (%033 654 25 07; www
.artilleriewerk-faulensee.ch, in German;
adult/child Sfr10/5; h2-5pm 1st Sat of
month Apr-Oct) built to house troops
defending Thun, Spiez and the
Lötschberg railway. During summer,
they’re open to the public once a month.
Cleverly disguised as farmhouses, the
entrances to the bunkers are guarded
by cannons and connected by
underground tunnels in which you’ll
fi nd offi ces, laboratories, kitchens and
cramped sleeping quarters. Tours last
1½ to two hours, and you’ll need to
be wearing warm clothing and sturdy
shoes. To ask about English
explanations, call or email ahead.
Faulensee can be reached by bus
from Spiez train station and from
Interlaken West by boat (Sfr22/37 one
way/return).
families. But it’s the view that will grab you,
whether from the lofty tower (which also
sports 13th-century graffi ti) or the banqueting
hall.
FHeimat und Rebbaumuseum MUSEUM
(Spiezbergstrasse 48; h2-5pm Wed, Sat & Sun
May-Oct) This attractive 18th-century wooden
chalet showcases exhibits on wine cultivation.
The best time to actually taste local
tipples is at the Läset-Sunntig (www.laese
-t-spiez.ch) wine festival in late September.
Freibad Spiez SWIMMING
(www.freibadspiez.ch: adult/child Sfr6/3; h7.30am-
8pm mid-May–Aug, 8am-7pm Sep) Spiez’ lido attracts
sun-worshipping locals and families
who come to frolic in the lake or swim laps
in the Olympic-sized swimming pool. It has
volleyball and tennis courts, minigolf and
– wait for it – the longest waterslide in the
Bernese Oberland.
4 Sleeping & Eating
You’ll fi nd many, rather ordinary, pizza and
pasta places located around the boat station.
Strandhotel Belvédère HISTORIC HOTEL $$
(%033 655 66 66; www.belvedere-spiez.ch; Schachenstrasse;
s Sfr125-155, d Sfr290-370; pis)
Whisking you back 100 years, the chandelier-lit
public areas at this genteel hotel
exude art nouveau fl air. Some rooms overdo
the Laura Ashley–style pastels and fl orals
but they are comfy, especially those with
lake-facing balconies. There’s a spa and a
Gault Millau–rated restaurant (mains Sfr39
to Sfr55).
Seegarten Marina HOTEL $$
(%033 655 67 67; www.seegarten-marina.ch; Schachenstrasse
3; s Sfr110-130, d Sfr170-220; pW)
Sitting prettily on the banks of Lake Thun,
this hotel has simple but large and spotless
rooms. Friendly service adds to the appeal,
as does the waterfront restaurant (mains
Sfr18 to Sfr44), dishing up Swiss classics like
veal sausage with rösti and perch fi lets.
8 Information
The tourist offi ce (%033 655 90 90; www
.thunersee.ch; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9amnoon
Sat) is outside the train station. It is open
shorter hours in the shoulder seasons.
Seestrasse, the main street, is down to the left,
and leads to the castle (15 minutes).
8 Getting There & Away
From Interlaken West, trains run very frequently
to Spiez (Sfr9.80, 20 minutes). By boat it’s Sfr19
from Thun and Sfr25 from Interlaken West.
Around Lake Thun
For a right royal day out, the grand castles
and palaces dotted around Lake Thun can
easily be reached by boat.
Scenically perched on the lake, turreted
Schloss Oberhofen (www.schlossoberhofen
.ch; adult/child Sfr10/2; h2-5pm Mon, 11am-5pm
Tue-Sun mid-May–mid-Oct) was wrested from
Habsburg control after the Battle of Sempach
(1386) and now traces Bernese life
from the 16th to the 19th centuries. A spin
takes in the frescoed chapel, ornate Napoleonic
drawing room and Turkish smoking
room. The manicured English landscaped
gardens (admission free; h10am-dusk Apr-Oct)
command arresting views of the Bernese
Alps.
Oberhofen is 25 minutes by boat from
Thun (one way/return Sfr4.60/7.80), or you
can take a bus (Sfr3, 20 minutes).
The plaything of a wealthy Prussian baron,
silver-turreted Schloss Hünegg (www.schloss