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Bernese Oberland

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ainbow trout with fi g-vanilla sauce (mains<br />

Sfr24 to Sfr44).<br />

Schwert HISTORIC HOTEL $$<br />

(%033 221 55 88; www.schwert-thun.ch; Untere<br />

Hauptgasse 8; s Sfr75-100, d Sfr145-230; W) Nestled<br />

at the foot of the castle is this graceful<br />

18th-century hotel, with an inviting woodpanelled<br />

restaurant (mains Sfr28 to Sfr43).<br />

Hardwood fl oors, high ceilings and the<br />

occasional antique lend the individually<br />

decorated rooms old-world fl air.<br />

Hotel Krone HISTORIC HOTEL $$<br />

(%033 227 88 88; www.krone-thun.ch; Obere<br />

Hauptgasse 2; s Sfr140-210, d Sfr220-330; W)<br />

Housed in a 14th-century bakers’ guild<br />

house on Rathausplatz, the Krone seamlessly<br />

combines historic charm with contemporary<br />

design. The rooms are bright<br />

and spacious, and the homely restaurant<br />

(mains Sfr30 to Sfr50) serves Swiss–French<br />

cuisine.<br />

5 Eating & Drinking<br />

oFluss FUSION $$<br />

(%033 222 01 10; Mühleplatz 9; mains Sfr27-58;<br />

h11am-12.30am, closed Sun winter) Right on<br />

the banks of the Aare River, this contemporary<br />

glass-walled lounge restaurant attracts<br />

a young crowd who come for the<br />

beautifully prepared sushi, sashimi and<br />

herb-infused grill specialities. The olive<br />

tree-dotted waterfront deck is perfect for<br />

sundowners and people-watching.<br />

Kaffee und Kuchen CAFE $<br />

(Obere Hauptgasse 34; snacks & light meals<br />

Sfr6.50-21; hclosed Sun evening & Mon winter)<br />

This vaulted cellar has an arty vibe and<br />

invites lazy days spent reading, guzzling<br />

coff ee and lingering over brunch. The<br />

homemade food – from breakfast rösti to<br />

rich chocolate-chilli cake – is delicious.<br />

Arts INTERNATIONAL $$<br />

(%033 222 25 00; www.schloss-schadau.ch;<br />

Seestrasse 45; mains Sfr29-56; hclosed Mon;<br />

vc) Ornate stucco and chandeliers create<br />

a regal backdrop at this restaurant in the<br />

perkily turreted Schloss Schadau. The views<br />

of the Jungfrau mountains are as appealing<br />

as the seasonal cuisine – think sautéed fi let<br />

of charr with pea-mint ravioli. Vegetarians<br />

and kids are well catered for.<br />

Kaffeebar Mühleplatz CAFE $<br />

(Mühleplatz 1; snacks Sfr6-15; h10am-12.30am<br />

Sun-Thu, 10am-1.30am Fri & Sat, shorter hours<br />

in winter) This is a cool riverside spot for a<br />

baguette or coff ee.<br />

3 Entertainment<br />

Mokka CLUB<br />

(www.mokka.ch, in German; Allmendstrasse 14;<br />

hWed-Sun) Has a top-drawer line-up of DJs,<br />

gigs and festivals. Music skips from funk to<br />

ska and electro punk.<br />

Konzepthalle6 ARTS CENTRE<br />

(www.konzepthalle6.ch, in German; Scheibenstrasse<br />

6) Cutting-edge design space and cultural<br />

centre, hosting events from concerts to<br />

poetry slams in a converted factory.<br />

Arena Thun SPECTATOR SPORT<br />

(%033 225 18 00; www.arenathun.ch; Weststrasse<br />

12) This new arena is home base to Swiss<br />

Super League football giants FC Thun. Take<br />

bus 3 from the train station.<br />

8 Information<br />

Post office (Panoramastrasse 1A; h7.30am-<br />

7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Opposite the train<br />

station.<br />

Tourist office (%033 225 90 00; www.thun.ch;<br />

Bahnhofplatz; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm<br />

Sat, plus to 1pm Sun Jul & Aug)<br />

8 Getting There & Away<br />

Thun is on the main north–south train route<br />

from Frankfurt to Milan and beyond. Frequent<br />

trains run to Interlaken West (Sfr15.20, 30 minutes).<br />

Boats glide across the lake to Interlaken<br />

Ost (Sfr39) and Spiez (Sfr19). Thun is on the A6<br />

motorway, which runs from Spiez north to Bern.<br />

Spiez<br />

POP 12,500 / ELEV 628M<br />

Hunched around a horseshoe-shaped bay, with<br />

a medieval castle rising above em erald<br />

vineyards, the oft-overlooked town of Spiez<br />

makes a great escape. The vibe is low-key<br />

but the setting magical, with views to conical<br />

Niesen (2362m) and a fjord-like slither of<br />

the lake. Its vines yield crisp, lemony riesling<br />

and Sylvaner white wines.<br />

1 Sights & Activities<br />

Schloss Spiez CASTLE<br />

(www.schloss-spiez.ch; Schlossstrasse 16; adult/child<br />

Sfr10/2; h2-5pm Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Easter-<br />

Jun, mid-Sep–mid-Oct, 10am-6pm Jul–mid-Sep)<br />

This turreted medieval castle is smothered<br />

in oil paintings of its former masters, the<br />

infl uential von Bubenburg and von Erlach<br />

137<br />

THE BERNESE LAKES OBERLAND EATING & EATING SPIEZ DRINKING & DRINKING

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