Bernese Oberland

Bernese Oberland Bernese Oberland

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8 Information Next to the Männlichen cable car, the tourist offi ce (%033 855 14 14; www.mywengen.ch; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 1-6pm Sun, closed Sat & Sun Nov & Mar-Apr) is minutes from the train station, taking a left at Hotel Silberhorn and continuing 100m further on. Next door is the post offi ce. Stechelberg POP 260 / ELEV 922M To witness the drama of the waterfall-gonemad Lauterbrunnen Valley, where a staggering 72 falls cascade over perpendicular walls of rock, make for Stechelberg. The valley takes its name from lauter (clear) and Brunnen (spring). To see the cataracts at their thundering best, visit in spring when the snow thaws or after heavy rain. Though long a bolthole for hikers, this tiny, silent village still feels like a well-kept secret. Blissfully rural Alpenhof Stechelberg (%033 855 12 02; www.alpenhof-stechelberg.ch; r per person Sfr28; hclosed Nov) harbours lightfi lled, neat-and-tidy rooms that off er fantastic value for your franc. A hearty breakfast with local dairy products is served for Sfr12. Mürren POP 430 / ELEV 1650M Arriving on a clear evening, as the train from Grütschalp fl oats along the horizontal ridge towards Mürren, the peaks across the valley feel so close that you could reach out and touch them. And that’s when you’ll think you’ve died and gone to Heidi heaven. With its low-slung wooden chalets and spellbinding views of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, car-free Mürren is storybook Switzerland. In summer, the Allmendhubel funicular (one way/return Sfr12/7.40) takes you above Mürren to a panoramic restaurant. From here, you can set out on many walks, including the famous Northface Trail (1½ hours), via Schiltalp to the west, leading through wildfl ower-strewn meadows with views to the glaciers and waterfalls of the Lauterbrunnen Valley and the monstrous Eiger north face – bring binoculars to spy intrepid climbers. There’s also a kid-friendly Adventure Trail (one hour). In winter, there are 53km of prepared ski runs nearby, mostly suited to intermediates, and a ski school (%033 855 12 47; CLIFFHANGER Feel like an adventure? Little beats Mürren’s vertigo-inducing Klettersteig (%033 856 86 86; www.klettersteig -muerren.ch; hmid-Jun–Oct). This highaltitude 2.2km via ferrata is one of Switzerland’s most astonishing, wriggling across breathtakingly steep limestone cliff s to Gimmelwald. Equipped with harness, helmet and karabiner, you can fl irt with mountaineering on ladders that snake across the precipices and bring you to a zip-line – whoa there goes Eiger! – and an 80m-long suspension bridge. Equipment can be rented for Sfr20 per day from Intersport opposite the tourist offi ce. Or you can go with a guide for Sfr95 by contacting Bergsteigen für Jedermann (%033 821 61 00; www .be-je.ch). www.muerren.ch/skischule) charging Sfr50 for a two-hour group lesson. Mürren is famous for its hell-for-leather Inferno Run (www .inferno-muerren.ch) down from Schilthorn in late January. Daredevils have been competing in the 16km race since 1928 and today the course attracts 1800 intrepid amateur skiers. It’s also the reason for all the devilish souvenirs. 4 Sleeping & Eating In summer, rates are up to 30% cheaper than the high-season winter prices given below. Eiger Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ (%033 856 54 60; www.eigerguesthouse.com; d Sfr140-190, q Sfr240; iW) Run by a funloving, on-the-ball team, this central pick off ers great value. Besides clean, spruced-up rooms (the best have Eiger views), there is a downstairs pub serving tasty grub and a good selection of draught beers. Hotel Jungfrau HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (%033 856 64 64; www.hoteljungfrau.ch; s Sfr80- 140, d Sfr160-280; W) Set above Mürren and overlooking the nursery slopes, this welcoming family-run hotel dates to 1894. Despite ’70s traces, rooms are tastefully decorated in warm hues; south-facing ones have Jungfrau views. Downstairs there’s a beamed lounge with an open fi re. 133 JUNGFRAU BERNESE OBERLAND REGION 8 8STECHELBERG

134 BERNESE OBERLAND GIMMELWALD Hotel Alpenruh HOTEL $$ (%033 856 88 00; www.alpenruh-muerren.ch; s Sfr140-180, d Sfr200-280; W) Lots of loving detail has gone into this much-lauded chalet. Grimacing masks to ward off evil spirits and assorted knick-knacks enliven the place, while the light-fl ooded rooms feature lots of chunky pine. Guests praise the service, food and unbeatable views to Jungfrau massif. Hotel Eiger HOTEL $$ (%033 856 54 54; www.hoteleiger.com; s Sfr178- 270, d Sfr285-460; Ws) This huge wooden chalet harbours sleek and contemporary rooms. The service is fi rst-rate, as are the views from the swimming pool, with picture-windows perfectly framing Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Tham’s ASIAN $ (%033 856 01 10; mains Sfr15-28; hdinner) Tham’s serves Chinese, Thai and other Asian dishes cooked by a former fi ve-star chef who’s literally taken to the hills to escape the rat race. The Sichuan beef and Singapore fried noodles are authentically spicy. Restaurant La Grotte SWISS $$ (%033 855 18 26; mains Sfr21-35; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm) Brimming with cowbells, cauldrons and Alpine props, this kitsch-meets-rustic mock cave of a restaurant is touristy but fun. Fondues and fl ambées are good bets. 8 Information The tourist offi ce (%033 856 86 86; www .mymuerren.ch; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Thu, 8.30am-6pm Sun, reduced hours in low season) is in the sports centre. Gimmelwald POP 110 / ELEV 1370M If you think Mürren is cute, wait until you see Gimmelwald. This pipsqueak of a village has long been a hideaway for hikers and adventurers tiptoeing away from the crowds. The secret is out, though, and this mountainside village is swiftly becoming known for its drop-dead-gorgeous scenery, rural authenticity and sense of calm. The surrounding hiking trails include one down from Mürren (30 to 40 minutes) and one up from Stechelberg (1¼ hours). Cable cars are also an option (Mürren or Stechelberg Sfr5.80). 4 Sleeping & Eating oEsther’s Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%033 855 54 88; www.esthersguesthouse.ch; s/d/ tr/q Sfr55/130/150/180, apt Sfr160-230; Wc) Esther runs this charming B&B with love. Drenched with piny light, the rooms are spotless, while the apartments are ideal for families. The attic room is a favourite with its slanted roof and star-gazing window. For an extra Sfr15, you’ll be served a delicious breakfast of homemade bread, cheese and yoghurt. Hotel Mittaghorn GUESTHOUSE $ (%033 855 16 58; d/tr Sfr86/129, half-board per person Sfr15; Poeschenried 39; i) Staring in wonder at the mountains is the main pursuit at this stunningly situated wooden chalet, run by the irrepressible Walter and his sidekick, Tom. Creaking fl oors and doors lead to simple, cosy rooms. Dinners are hearty, jovial aff airs. It’s a 10-minute uphill walk from the cable-car station. Mountain Hostel HOSTEL $ (%033 855 17 04; www.mountainhostel.com; dm Sfr28; W) A backpacking legend, this basic, low-ceilinged hostel has a sociable vibe. After a sweaty day’s hiking, you can kick back in a hammock in the mountain-facing garden, play pool or grab a pizza. Schilthorn There’s a tremendous 360-degree panorama from the 2970m Schilthorn (www.schilthorn .ch). On a clear day, you can see from Titlis around to Mont Blanc, and across to the German Black Forest. Yet some visitors seem more preoccupied with practising their delivery of the line, ‘The name’s Bond, James Bond’, than taking in the 200 or so peaks. That’s because a few scenes from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service were shot here in 1968–69 – as the fairly tacky Touristorama below the Piz Gloria revolving restaurant will remind you. From Interlaken, take a Sfr120.80 excursion trip (Half-Fare Card and Swiss Card 50% off , Swiss Pass 65% off ) going to Lauterbrunnen, Grütschalp, Mürren, Schilthorn and returning through Stechelberg to Interlaken. A return from Lauterbrunnen (via Grütschalp) and Mürren costs Sfr94.80 as does the return journey via the Stechelberg cable car. A return from Mürren is Sfr74. Ask about discounts for early-morning trips.

8 Information<br />

Next to the Männlichen cable car, the tourist<br />

offi ce (%033 855 14 14; www.mywengen.ch;<br />

h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 1-6pm Sun,<br />

closed Sat & Sun Nov & Mar-Apr) is minutes from<br />

the train station, taking a left at Hotel Silberhorn<br />

and continuing 100m further on. Next door is the<br />

post offi ce.<br />

Stechelberg<br />

POP 260 / ELEV 922M<br />

To witness the drama of the waterfall-gonemad<br />

Lauterbrunnen Valley, where a staggering<br />

72 falls cascade over perpendicular<br />

walls of rock, make for Stechelberg. The<br />

valley takes its name from lauter (clear) and<br />

Brunnen (spring). To see the cataracts at<br />

their thundering best, visit in spring when<br />

the snow thaws or after heavy rain. Though<br />

long a bolthole for hikers, this tiny, silent<br />

village still feels like a well-kept secret.<br />

Blissfully rural Alpenhof Stechelberg<br />

(%033 855 12 02; www.alpenhof-stechelberg.ch;<br />

r per person Sfr28; hclosed Nov) harbours lightfi<br />

lled, neat-and-tidy rooms that off er fantastic<br />

value for your franc. A hearty breakfast<br />

with local dairy products is served for Sfr12.<br />

Mürren<br />

POP 430 / ELEV 1650M<br />

Arriving on a clear evening, as the train<br />

from Grütschalp fl oats along the horizontal<br />

ridge towards Mürren, the peaks across<br />

the valley feel so close that you could reach<br />

out and touch them. And that’s when<br />

you’ll think you’ve died and gone to Heidi<br />

heaven. With its low-slung wooden chalets<br />

and spellbinding views of Eiger, Mönch<br />

and Jungfrau, car-free Mürren is storybook<br />

Switzerland.<br />

In summer, the Allmendhubel funicular<br />

(one way/return Sfr12/7.40) takes you above<br />

Mürren to a panoramic restaurant. From<br />

here, you can set out on many walks, including<br />

the famous Northface Trail (1½<br />

hours), via Schiltalp to the west, leading<br />

through wildfl ower-strewn meadows with<br />

views to the glaciers and waterfalls of the<br />

Lauterbrunnen Valley and the monstrous<br />

Eiger north face – bring binoculars to spy<br />

intrepid climbers. There’s also a kid-friendly<br />

Adventure Trail (one hour).<br />

In winter, there are 53km of prepared<br />

ski runs nearby, mostly suited to intermediates,<br />

and a ski school (%033 855 12 47;<br />

CLIFFHANGER<br />

Feel like an adventure? Little beats<br />

Mürren’s vertigo-inducing Klettersteig<br />

(%033 856 86 86; www.klettersteig<br />

-muerren.ch; hmid-Jun–Oct). This highaltitude<br />

2.2km via ferrata is one of<br />

Switzerland’s most astonishing,<br />

wriggling across breathtakingly<br />

steep limestone cliff s to Gimmelwald.<br />

Equipped with harness, helmet and<br />

karabiner, you can fl irt with<br />

mountaineering on ladders that snake<br />

across the precipices and bring you to<br />

a zip-line – whoa there goes Eiger! –<br />

and an 80m-long suspension bridge.<br />

Equipment can be rented for Sfr20<br />

per day from Intersport opposite the<br />

tourist offi ce. Or you can go with a guide<br />

for Sfr95 by contacting Bergsteigen<br />

für Jedermann (%033 821 61 00; www<br />

.be-je.ch).<br />

www.muerren.ch/skischule) charging Sfr50 for<br />

a two-hour group lesson. Mürren is famous<br />

for its hell-for-leather Inferno Run (www<br />

.inferno-muerren.ch) down from Schilthorn in<br />

late January. Daredevils have been competing<br />

in the 16km race since 1928 and today<br />

the course attracts 1800 intrepid amateur<br />

skiers. It’s also the reason for all the devilish<br />

souvenirs.<br />

4 Sleeping & Eating<br />

In summer, rates are up to 30% cheaper than<br />

the high-season winter prices given below.<br />

Eiger Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$<br />

(%033 856 54 60; www.eigerguesthouse.com;<br />

d Sfr140-190, q Sfr240; iW) Run by a funloving,<br />

on-the-ball team, this central pick<br />

off ers great value. Besides clean, spruced-up<br />

rooms (the best have Eiger views), there is<br />

a downstairs pub serving tasty grub and a<br />

good selection of draught beers.<br />

Hotel Jungfrau HISTORIC HOTEL $$<br />

(%033 856 64 64; www.hoteljungfrau.ch; s Sfr80-<br />

140, d Sfr160-280; W) Set above Mürren and<br />

overlooking the nursery slopes, this welcoming<br />

family-run hotel dates to 1894. Despite<br />

’70s traces, rooms are tastefully decorated<br />

in warm hues; south-facing ones have Jungfrau<br />

views. Downstairs there’s a beamed<br />

lounge with an open fi re.<br />

133<br />

JUNGFRAU BERNESE OBERLAND REGION 8 8STECHELBERG

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