Bernese Oberland

132
BERNESE OBERLAND WENGEN
Männlichen or train to Allmend, Wengernalp
or Kleine Scheidegg. Skiing is mostly
cruisy blues and reds, though experts can
brave exhilarating black runs at Lauberhorn
and the aptly named ‘Oh God’.
The same areas are excellent for hiking in
the summer. Some 20km of paths stay open
in winter too. The hour-long forest trail
down to Lauterbrunnen is a sylvan beauty.
4 Sleeping
Expect summer rates to be roughly 30%
cheaper than those quoted below.
Hotel Caprice BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%033 856 06 06; www.caprice-wengen.ch; d
Sfr380-540; W) If you’re looking for designoriented
luxury in the Jungfrau mountains,
this boutique gem delivers with discreet service
and authentically French cuisine. Don’t
be fooled by its cute Alpine trappings; inside
it exudes Scandinavian-style simplicity with
chocolate-cream colours, slick rooms and a
lounge with an open fi re.
Hotel Berghaus HOTEL $$
(%033 855 21 51; www.berghaus-wengen.ch; s/d
from Sfr135/270) Sidling up to the forest, this
family-run chalet is a fi ve-minute toddle
from the village centre. Rooms are light,
spacious and pin-drop peaceful – ask for a
south-facing one for dreamy Jungfrau views.
Call ahead and they’ll pick you up from the
train station.
SKIING THE JUNGFRAU
REGION
Whether you want to slalom wide, sunny
slopes at the foot of Eiger or ski the
breathtakingly sheer 16km Inferno run
from Schilthorn to Lauterbrunnen, there’s
a piste that suits in the Jungfrau Region.
Grindelwald, Männlichen, Mürren and
Wengen have access to some 214km of
prepared runs and 44 ski lifts. A one-day
ski pass for either Grindelwald-Wengen
or Mürren-Schilthorn costs Sfr62 for
adults and Sfr31 for children, while a
seven-day ski pass for these regions
will set you back Sfr291/146. Ski passes
for the whole Jungfrau ski region cost
Sfr129 for adults and Sfr65 for children
for a minimum two days, but switching
between ski areas by train can be slow
and crowded.
Hotel Bären HOTEL $$
(%033 855 14 19; www.baeren-wengen.ch; s Sfr90-
150, d 190-280; iW) Loop back under the rail
track and head down the hill to this snug
log chalet with bright, if compact, rooms.
The aff able Brunner family serves a hearty
breakfast and the extra Sfr20 for half-board
is incredible value.
5 Eating & Drinking
Restaurant Schönegg SWISS $$$
(%033 855 34 22; mains Sfr39-52; hlunch & dinner
Mon-Sun, dinner only winter) Chef Hubert Mayer
serves seasonally inspired dishes like homesmoked
salmon with apple horseradish
and saddle of venison in port wine jus. The
pine-clad, candlelit dining room is wonderfully
cosy in winter and the mountain-facing
terrace perfect for summertime dining.
Santos CAFE $
(%078 67 97 445; snacks Sfr6-9; h10am-midnight,
closed Mon in summer) Popular with ravenous
skiers coming down from the slopes,
this Portuguese TV-and-tiles place is the
real deal. Mrs Santos whips up burgers,
calamari, sandwiches and divine pastéis de
nata (custard tarts).
Café Gruebi CAFE $
(%033 855 58 55; snacks & mains Sfr7-16;
h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun) Run by a
husband-and-wife team, Gruebi off ers cheap
eats like rösti and goulash. The yummy
homemade cakes are baked almost daily by
the…husband.
Pickel ITALIAN $$
(%033 855 77 77; Am Bahnhof; mains Sfr24-
38; h4pm-1am) Exposed brick, log tables
and banquettes set the scene at this little
restaurant-bar behind the station. It’s a
relaxed spot for a coff ee, homemade
schnapps, or well-executed Italian mains
like porcini ravioli.
Rocks Bar BAR
(Dorfstrasse; h4.30pm-12.30am Wed-Mon) The
chipper staff , comfy leather sofas, Sky
sports and internet (Sfr5 for 30 minutes)
make this a good place to unwind. There’s
two for one at the daily happy hour from
9pm to 10pm.
Crystal Bar BAR
(Haus Crystal; h8am-midnight) Pumping tunes
and occasionally hosting gigs, this relaxed
bar draws fun-loving après-ski types. It’s
opposite Männlichen cable car.