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Bernese Oberland

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4 Sleeping<br />

Hotel Staubbach HOTEL $$<br />

(%033 855 54 54; www.staubbach.com; s Sfr130-<br />

150, d Sfr150-170, tr Sfr210-240, s/d without bathroom<br />

Sfr100/120; iW) The bright rooms with<br />

downy duvets are immaculately kept at this<br />

grand old hotel; the best have balconies with<br />

Staubbach Falls views. There’s a sociable<br />

vibe in the lounge with free coff ee and a<br />

kids’ play area.<br />

Valley Hostel HOSTEL $<br />

(%033 855 20 08; www.valleyhostel.ch; dm/s/<br />

tw/d/tr/q Sfr28/43/66/76/99/120; pW) This<br />

relaxed, family-run hostel has an open-plan<br />

kitchen, a garden with tremendous views of<br />

the Staubbach Falls, a laundry, free wi-fi and<br />

a cat, Tiggy. Most of the spacious, pine-clad<br />

dorms have balconies. The friendly team can<br />

help organise activities from paragliding to<br />

canyoning.<br />

Camping Jungfrau CAMPGROUND $<br />

(%033 856 20 10; www.camping-jungfrau.ch; sites<br />

per adult/tent/car Sfr9.80/11/3.50, dm Sfr29-32;<br />

iW) This Rolls Royce of a campsite also<br />

off ers cosy dorms and huts for those craving<br />

more comfort. The top-notch facilities include<br />

a kitchen, kiosk, bike rental and wi-fi .<br />

There’s even a dog shower for messy pups!<br />

Gästehaus im Rohr GUESTHOUSE $<br />

(%033 855 21 82; www.chaletimrohr.ch; r per<br />

person Sfr28; W) Ablaze with scarlet geraniums<br />

in summer, this 400-year-old chalet<br />

is a bargain. Creaky fl oorboards and small<br />

windows add to its cosy, old-world charm.<br />

The ’70s-style rooms are humble but spotless,<br />

and there’s a huge communal balcony<br />

overlooking the falls.<br />

5 Eating & Drinking<br />

oAirtime CAFE $<br />

(www.airtime.ch; snacks & light meals Sfr6-15;<br />

h9am-7pm; W) Inspired by their travels in<br />

New Zealand, Daniela and Beni have set<br />

up this funky cafe, book exchange, laundry<br />

and extreme sports agency. Munch wraps,<br />

sandwiches and homemade cakes (try the<br />

chocolate-nut special) as you use the free<br />

wi-fi to check your email. You can book<br />

adrenalin-fuelled pursuits like ice climbing,<br />

canyoning and bungee jumping here.<br />

Flavours CAFE $<br />

(www.fl avours.ch; snacks & light meals Sfr6-14;<br />

h7.30am-6.30pm) Whether you fancy a slapup<br />

egg-and-bacon breakfast, homemade<br />

cakes with locally roasted coff ee or a<br />

smoothie, Flavours is the go-to place. Housed<br />

in the former bakery, it’s a grocery store<br />

on one side and a sleek cafe on the other.<br />

Warm up over hearty soups and savoury<br />

quiches. Choc-Rock truffl es make a sweet<br />

gift.<br />

Hotel <strong>Oberland</strong> SWISS $$<br />

(%033 855 12 41; mains Sfr18-36; h11am-9pm)<br />

The street-facing terrace at this traditional<br />

haunt is always humming. On the menu<br />

are Swiss and international favour ites from<br />

fondue to pizza, vegetable curry and hybrid<br />

dishes like Indian-style rösti.<br />

Hotel Horner BAR<br />

(%033 855 16 73; h9.30am-2.30am; W) BASE<br />

jumpers tell hair-raising parachute tales at<br />

this buzzy pub, as they come back down to<br />

earth over a pint or four. The vibe gets clubbier<br />

as the night wears on. Internet access or<br />

wi-fi is free when you buy a drink.<br />

8 Information<br />

The tourist offi ce (%033 856 85 68; www.my<br />

lauterbrunnen.com; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-<br />

6pm Jun-Sep, 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri<br />

rest of year) is opposite the train station.<br />

If you’re travelling to the car-free resorts of<br />

Wengen and Mürren, there’s a multistorey car<br />

park (%033 828 71 11; www.jungfraubahn.ch;<br />

per day/week Sfr13.50/82) by the station, but<br />

it’s advisable to book ahead. There is also an<br />

open-air car park by the Stechelberg cable-car<br />

station, charging Sfr5 for a day.<br />

Wengen<br />

POP 1300 / ELEV 1274M<br />

Photogenically poised on a mountain<br />

ledge, Wengen’s ‘celestial views’ have lured<br />

Brits here since Edwardian times. The fact<br />

you can only reach this chocolate-box village<br />

by train gives it romantic appeal. From<br />

the bench in front of the church at dusk,<br />

the vista takes on watercolour dreaminess,<br />

peering over to the misty Staubbach<br />

Falls, down to the Lauterbrunnen Valley<br />

and up to glacier-capped giants of the<br />

Jungfrau massif. In winter, Wengen<br />

morphs into a ski resort with a low-key,<br />

family-friendly feel.<br />

The highlight in Wengen’s calendar is<br />

the world-famous Lauberhorn downhill<br />

ski race in mid-January, where pros reach<br />

speeds of up to 160km/h. Mere mortals can<br />

pound powder by taking the cable car to<br />

131<br />

JUNGFRAU BERNESE OBERLAND REGION SLEEPING<br />

WENGEN

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