Bernese Oberland
Bernese Oberland
Bernese Oberland
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122<br />
BERNESE OBERLAND ST BEATUS-HÖHLEN<br />
edelweiss. The biggest draw up here, however,<br />
is the hiking. The Panoramaweg is<br />
an easy two-hour circuit, while the highlevel<br />
15km Faulhornweg trail is one of<br />
Switzerland’s star treks. If you’re here in<br />
July or August, don’t miss the moonlight<br />
hikes that follow the same route.<br />
You reach the plateau on a late 19th-century<br />
cog-wheel train (www.schynigeplatte.ch, www<br />
.jungfraubahn.ch; one way/return Sfr35/60; hclosed<br />
late Oct-late May) from Wilderswil. Trains run<br />
up to Schynige Platte at approximately 40- to<br />
50-minute intervals until around 5pm.<br />
St Beatus-Höhlen<br />
Sculpted over millennia, the St Beatus<br />
Caves (www.beatushoehlen.ch, in German; adult/<br />
child Sfr18/10; h9.30am-5pm late Mar-late Oct)<br />
are great for a wander through caverns of<br />
dramatically lit stalagmites, stalactites and<br />
underground lakes. Lore has it that in the<br />
6th century they sheltered St Beatus, monk,<br />
hermit and fi rst apostle of Switzerland, who<br />
apparently did battle with a dragon here.<br />
They are a 1½-hour walk or a short Sfr12.80<br />
boat ride from Interlaken.<br />
JUNGFRAU REGION<br />
If the <strong>Bernese</strong> <strong>Oberland</strong> is Switzerland’s<br />
Alpine heart, the Jungfrau Region is where<br />
yours will skip a beat. Presided over by<br />
glacier-encrusted monoliths Eiger, Mönch<br />
and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Virgin), the<br />
scenery is positively uplifting. Hundreds of<br />
kilometres of walking trails allow you to<br />
capture the landscape from many angles,<br />
but it never looks less than astonishing.<br />
The ‘big three’ peaks have an enduring<br />
place in mountaineering legend, particularly<br />
the 3970m Eiger, whose fearsome north<br />
wall has claimed many lives and remained<br />
unconquered until 1938. Reaching great<br />
heights is easier today; it takes just hours to<br />
whizz up by train to Jungfraujoch (3454m),<br />
the highest station in Europe.<br />
Summit journeys are only really worth<br />
making on clear days, so it’s worth checking<br />
webcams – such as the ones on www<br />
.jungfraubahn.ch and www.swisspanorama<br />
.com – before you leave.<br />
Staying in resorts entitles you to a<br />
Gästekarte (Guest Card), good for discounts<br />
throughout the entire region. Ask your hotel<br />
for the card if one isn’t forthcoming.<br />
8 Getting There & Around<br />
Hourly trains depart for the region from Interlaken<br />
Ost station. Sit in the front half of the train for<br />
Lauterbrunnen or the back half for Grindelwald.<br />
The two sections of the train split up where the<br />
two valleys diverge at Zweilütschinen. The rail<br />
tracks loop around and meet up again at Kleine<br />
Scheidegg at the base of the Eiger, from where<br />
the route goes up and back to Jungfraujoch.<br />
The Swiss Half-Fare Card is valid within the<br />
entire region. See p129 for details on good-value<br />
travel passes such as the Berner <strong>Oberland</strong><br />
Regional Pass and the six-day Jungfraubahnen<br />
Pass.<br />
Without a money-saving pass, sample fares<br />
include the following: Interlaken Ost to Grindelwald<br />
Sfr10.40; Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg<br />
Sfr32; Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch Sfr112<br />
(return); Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen Sfr24;<br />
Wengen to Lauterbrunnen Sfr6.40; and Lauterbrunnen<br />
to Interlaken Ost Sfr7.20.<br />
Many of the cable cars close for servicing in<br />
late April and late October.<br />
Grindelwald<br />
POP 3900 / ELEV 1034M<br />
Grindelwald’s sublime natural assets are<br />
fi lm-set stuff – the chiselled features of Eiger<br />
north face, the glinting tongues of Oberer<br />
and Unterer Glaciers and the crown-like<br />
peak of Wetterhorn will make you stare,<br />
swoon and lunge for your camera. Skiers<br />
and hikers cottoned onto its charms in the<br />
late 19th century, which makes it one of<br />
Switzerland’s oldest resorts. And it has lost<br />
none of its appeal over the decades, with<br />
geranium-studded Alpine chalets and verdant<br />
pastures set against an Oscar-worthy<br />
backdrop.<br />
1 Sights<br />
Oberer Gletscher VIEWPOINT<br />
(adult/child Sfr6/3; h9am-6pm mid-May–Oct)<br />
The shimmering, slowly melting Oberer<br />
Gletscher is a 1½-hour hike east from the<br />
village, or catch a bus to Hotel-Restaurant<br />
Wetterhorn. Walk 10 minutes from the bus<br />
stop, then clamber up 890 wooden steps to<br />
reach a terrace off ering dramatic views. A<br />
vertiginous hanging bridge spans the gorge.<br />
Gletscherschlucht GORGE<br />
(www.gletscherschlucht.ch; adult/child Sfr7/3.50;<br />
h10am-5pm May–mid-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug) Turbulent<br />
waters carve a path through this craggy<br />
glacier gorge, a 30-minute walk south of<br />
the centre. A footpath weaves through tunnels<br />
hacked into cliff s veined with pink and