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Bernese Oberland

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122<br />

BERNESE OBERLAND ST BEATUS-HÖHLEN<br />

edelweiss. The biggest draw up here, however,<br />

is the hiking. The Panoramaweg is<br />

an easy two-hour circuit, while the highlevel<br />

15km Faulhornweg trail is one of<br />

Switzerland’s star treks. If you’re here in<br />

July or August, don’t miss the moonlight<br />

hikes that follow the same route.<br />

You reach the plateau on a late 19th-century<br />

cog-wheel train (www.schynigeplatte.ch, www<br />

.jungfraubahn.ch; one way/return Sfr35/60; hclosed<br />

late Oct-late May) from Wilderswil. Trains run<br />

up to Schynige Platte at approximately 40- to<br />

50-minute intervals until around 5pm.<br />

St Beatus-Höhlen<br />

Sculpted over millennia, the St Beatus<br />

Caves (www.beatushoehlen.ch, in German; adult/<br />

child Sfr18/10; h9.30am-5pm late Mar-late Oct)<br />

are great for a wander through caverns of<br />

dramatically lit stalagmites, stalactites and<br />

underground lakes. Lore has it that in the<br />

6th century they sheltered St Beatus, monk,<br />

hermit and fi rst apostle of Switzerland, who<br />

apparently did battle with a dragon here.<br />

They are a 1½-hour walk or a short Sfr12.80<br />

boat ride from Interlaken.<br />

JUNGFRAU REGION<br />

If the <strong>Bernese</strong> <strong>Oberland</strong> is Switzerland’s<br />

Alpine heart, the Jungfrau Region is where<br />

yours will skip a beat. Presided over by<br />

glacier-encrusted monoliths Eiger, Mönch<br />

and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Virgin), the<br />

scenery is positively uplifting. Hundreds of<br />

kilometres of walking trails allow you to<br />

capture the landscape from many angles,<br />

but it never looks less than astonishing.<br />

The ‘big three’ peaks have an enduring<br />

place in mountaineering legend, particularly<br />

the 3970m Eiger, whose fearsome north<br />

wall has claimed many lives and remained<br />

unconquered until 1938. Reaching great<br />

heights is easier today; it takes just hours to<br />

whizz up by train to Jungfraujoch (3454m),<br />

the highest station in Europe.<br />

Summit journeys are only really worth<br />

making on clear days, so it’s worth checking<br />

webcams – such as the ones on www<br />

.jungfraubahn.ch and www.swisspanorama<br />

.com – before you leave.<br />

Staying in resorts entitles you to a<br />

Gästekarte (Guest Card), good for discounts<br />

throughout the entire region. Ask your hotel<br />

for the card if one isn’t forthcoming.<br />

8 Getting There & Around<br />

Hourly trains depart for the region from Interlaken<br />

Ost station. Sit in the front half of the train for<br />

Lauterbrunnen or the back half for Grindelwald.<br />

The two sections of the train split up where the<br />

two valleys diverge at Zweilütschinen. The rail<br />

tracks loop around and meet up again at Kleine<br />

Scheidegg at the base of the Eiger, from where<br />

the route goes up and back to Jungfraujoch.<br />

The Swiss Half-Fare Card is valid within the<br />

entire region. See p129 for details on good-value<br />

travel passes such as the Berner <strong>Oberland</strong><br />

Regional Pass and the six-day Jungfraubahnen<br />

Pass.<br />

Without a money-saving pass, sample fares<br />

include the following: Interlaken Ost to Grindelwald<br />

Sfr10.40; Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg<br />

Sfr32; Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch Sfr112<br />

(return); Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen Sfr24;<br />

Wengen to Lauterbrunnen Sfr6.40; and Lauterbrunnen<br />

to Interlaken Ost Sfr7.20.<br />

Many of the cable cars close for servicing in<br />

late April and late October.<br />

Grindelwald<br />

POP 3900 / ELEV 1034M<br />

Grindelwald’s sublime natural assets are<br />

fi lm-set stuff – the chiselled features of Eiger<br />

north face, the glinting tongues of Oberer<br />

and Unterer Glaciers and the crown-like<br />

peak of Wetterhorn will make you stare,<br />

swoon and lunge for your camera. Skiers<br />

and hikers cottoned onto its charms in the<br />

late 19th century, which makes it one of<br />

Switzerland’s oldest resorts. And it has lost<br />

none of its appeal over the decades, with<br />

geranium-studded Alpine chalets and verdant<br />

pastures set against an Oscar-worthy<br />

backdrop.<br />

1 Sights<br />

Oberer Gletscher VIEWPOINT<br />

(adult/child Sfr6/3; h9am-6pm mid-May–Oct)<br />

The shimmering, slowly melting Oberer<br />

Gletscher is a 1½-hour hike east from the<br />

village, or catch a bus to Hotel-Restaurant<br />

Wetterhorn. Walk 10 minutes from the bus<br />

stop, then clamber up 890 wooden steps to<br />

reach a terrace off ering dramatic views. A<br />

vertiginous hanging bridge spans the gorge.<br />

Gletscherschlucht GORGE<br />

(www.gletscherschlucht.ch; adult/child Sfr7/3.50;<br />

h10am-5pm May–mid-Oct, to 6pm Jul & Aug) Turbulent<br />

waters carve a path through this craggy<br />

glacier gorge, a 30-minute walk south of<br />

the centre. A footpath weaves through tunnels<br />

hacked into cliff s veined with pink and

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