THE HISTORY OF BLANCPAIN

Satigny vineyards and “Domaine de Châteauvieux”,
its courtyard and Philippe Chevrier himself.
Right: Le Homard bleu de Bretagne, rôti aux
girolles, émulsion de carapaces à l’estragon.
PHILIPPE CHEVRIER HAS EARNED HIS PLACE
AT THE PINNACLE OF SWISS COOKING
AND IS ONE OF THREE WHO HAVE DEFINED
(2 Michlin Stars) repeatedly wove in our discussion
of his philosophy was “précision”.
Indeed he perceives that the discipline of a
pâtissier (pastry chef) – and he is an accomplished
pâtissier, a rare distinction among
the world’s grand chefs who leave pastries
to others on their kitchen team – governs
the full range of preparations in his restaurant.
As fine cooks know – and banish from your
thoughts the mindless television pretenders –
pastry is excruciatingly demanding. Ingredients
are measured to the gram, cooking times
to the second. That discipline, or in Chevrier’s
words, “précision”, applies to the full menu
at his restaurant, Domaine de Chateauvieux,
near Geneva.
Millimetric precision has come to define
modern Swiss cuisine. It is not surprising that
Philippe Chevrier is an alumni of the legendary
Fredy Girardet. During his reign in
Crissier, located on a hill above Lausanne,
Fredy Girardet was widely acclaimed as no
less than the best chef in the world. A pilgrimage
to Crissier became de rigeur for
gourmets from around the world who came
to experience the astonishing refinement of
Girardet’s Swiss interpretation of French cuisine.
Certainly Girardet was known for
meticulous selection of perfect ingredients
and enormous creativity in the conception of
his dishes, but his greatness and his position
above all of the other Michelin decorated
chefs in the world came from his obsessive
MODERN SWISS CUISINE.
devotion to the most minute details of each
dish. His précision in all dimensions.
Having trained with Girardet, Philippe
Chevrier has become a disciple and joins
fellow Girardet disciples, Gerard Rabaey
(Restaurant Le Pont de Brent, Lettres du
Brassus Issue 3) and Philippe Rochat
(Restaurant L’Hotel de Ville, Lettres du Brassus
Issue 1) at the pinnacle of current Swiss chefs.
The torch passed from Girardet to them, these
three together now define Swiss cuisine.
The discipline, and there’s that word again,
précision, are what the discerning Swiss palate
understands and expects. Philippe Chevrier
thinks it is no accident that this style has evolved
in the same nation that has created the art
of fine timepieces. He sees a parallel. The patient,
meticulous attention to minute detail
that is poured into the conception and construction
of an exquisite hand-crafted watch
is mirrored in the realisation of a fine meal.
The parallel extends real still further. Not
only does Philippe Chevrier insist on absolute
precision in the preparation of each dish – nothing
left to a splash here and a handful there
– but in the conception as well. His creations
begin, not with him poised behind the stove
surrounded by ingredients, but of all things
with a paper and pen. Likening himself to an
architect, working with his team, he designs
each and every dish first on paper. Only with
an encyclopaedic knowledge of ingredients
and technique can plates be created in this
56
| 57
way, completely imagined in his head. When
fin-ished, like an architect, he has a fully
documented, detailed plan with nothing left
to chance or improvisation for his comis
(assistant chefs) to execute.
The proof comes with a grand meal at
Domaine de Chateauvieux. From its dominant
perch 10 minutes from the Geneva Cointrin
airport, Domaine de Chateauvieux enjoys a
commanding view over the Satigny vineyards
and Rhone river. Settling in among rustic stone
walls, vast fireplace, wooden beam ceilings,
and, of course, abundant flowers, it is impossible
to imagine that Domaine de Chateauvieux
was once home to a casual guest house
and pizzeria before Chevrier metamorphosed
it into one of the world’s elite gourmet destinations.
Indeed, with its 12 well appointed
rooms, Domaine de Chateauvieux is truly a
country resort that not only offers the ultimate
restaurant luxury of walking to one’s room
after a splendid dinner, but, as well, it is a sanctuary
of sorts from the traffic clogs of Geneva,
representing an attractive alternative to downtown
hotels for a stay in the area. Watch collectors
will be particularly enchanted by the
outfitting of each guest room with an electric
watch winder, to keep automatic wristwatches
fully wound when off the wrist.
A recent summer’s meal there began with a
dazzling string, better said, an awe inspiring
flotilla, of amuse bouches. First to arrive, and
fitting to the season, were two cold starters,