THE HISTORY OF BLANCPAIN
THE HISTORY OF BLANCPAIN
THE HISTORY OF BLANCPAIN
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CHAMPAGNE QUALITY AND CHARACTER<br />
IS BOUND UP WITH<br />
PARTICULARS <strong>OF</strong> VINEYARD AND GRAPE.<br />
36<br />
| 37<br />
By sheer dint of marketing moxie, the<br />
grand champagne houses have triumphed.<br />
They have made their names more<br />
important than the grapes and vineyards.<br />
Even wine guru Robert Parker, for all of his<br />
ardent consumerist tendencies, leaves the<br />
veil in place. What the large houses promote<br />
is their blend of wines from different parcels<br />
and their ability to achieve a consistent character<br />
by adjusting the blend according to the<br />
grapes at hand and the vintage. Not only<br />
does terroir have no role to play, it is assiduously<br />
blended out of the resulting wine and<br />
later hidden from the consumer.<br />
“Lettres du Brassus” is going to illuminate<br />
a path largely ignored in both the wine press<br />
and trade, and look at champagne through<br />
the same prism as other prestige wines,<br />
where quality and character are inextricably
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