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Untitled - Glycine Watch SA

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MES<strong>SA</strong>GE FROM THE PRESIDENT<br />

From its founding by Eugene Meylan in 1914, <strong>Glycine</strong><br />

has continuously produced fine watches at its factory in<br />

Bienne, Switzerland.<br />

Meylan was an uncompromising watch engineer who strived<br />

for perfection and nothing less. He possessed a profound<br />

understanding of both the demands of the marketplace and<br />

the great possibilities offered by the technological advances<br />

of his era.<br />

Nearly a century has passed since the founding and 99<br />

years after the creation of his first <strong>Glycine</strong> watch, Meylan’s<br />

spirit lives on! <strong>Glycine</strong>, more than ever, burns its own trail by<br />

creating distinctive timepieces predicated upon the unique<br />

DNA developed by Meylan, always a bit outside of the<br />

mainstream.<br />

Today, <strong>Glycine</strong> is recognized as one of the real pioneers<br />

for world timer and aviation watches as well as high quality<br />

watches of imposing size and design.<br />

Since its founding in 1914 by Eugene Meylan, <strong>Glycine</strong> has<br />

remained a Swiss family owned and managed company,<br />

which is today managed by its owner Stephan Lack.<br />

Stephan Lack President<br />

2


THE BEGINNING : THE HISTORY OF A PASSION<br />

Meylan was an uncompromising watch engineer who<br />

strove for perfection and nothing less. He had a profound<br />

understanding of both the market demands and the<br />

possibilities offered by the technological advances of the<br />

time. Very soon, he succeeded in producing extremely<br />

precise, small movements for ladies watches, enabling<br />

<strong>Glycine</strong> to put on the market the finest miniature<br />

movements, clad in precious gold and platinum cases,<br />

often studded with diamonds.<br />

<strong>Glycine</strong> became a supplier to the wealthy people who valued<br />

highly these works of fine craftsmanship. However, Meylan<br />

did not stop there. Around 1931, he presented to the world<br />

market a well-functioning self-winding watch, entirely of his<br />

own invention, a sensational performance that, for lack of<br />

capital, could not be exploited commercially. Some of these<br />

GLYCINE Eugène Meylan <strong>SA</strong> self-winding watches can still be<br />

found in the collectors’ market.<br />

The year 1934 saw the launch of a chronometer range, a line<br />

of watches passing the exacting tests of the Official Swiss<br />

Quality Control. The depression years of the 30s and the<br />

approaching world war took a heavy toll on the company as<br />

Switzerland was cut off from nearly all its traditional export<br />

markets.<br />

Yet <strong>Glycine</strong> survived and even managed to be one of only 29<br />

exhibitors at the Basel Fair in 1938, an annual event the firm<br />

has not missed since.<br />

3


In 1945, with the war over and access to world markets<br />

again possible, the industry took a deep breath.<br />

Immediately, <strong>Glycine</strong> geared up production and rapidly<br />

presented a complete range of automatic (self-winding)<br />

watches, making use of the most advanced technologies.<br />

AFTER WORLD WAR II<br />

1952 saw the birth of the famous VACUUM chronometers,<br />

watches known for their incredible resistance to water and<br />

shocks, designed for long-term use under hostile conditions.<br />

They performed well beyond expectations.<br />

In 1953, the AIRMAN line was presented to the world market<br />

and immediately received an enthusiastic welcome. Now, in<br />

addition to regular local time, world time was available at a<br />

glance.<br />

The steadily growing class of jet-setters and frequent<br />

travellers readily took to the convenience of having two time<br />

zones on their wrist.<br />

The AIRMAN line has never been absent from the <strong>Glycine</strong><br />

selection, and is, today more than ever, the spearhead of the<br />

range.<br />

4


THE CRISIS<br />

In the 70s, the Swiss watch industry – late in introducing<br />

quartz movements - was hit by the proliferation of quartz<br />

watches from the Far East<br />

The technological revolution brought about by the quartz<br />

movement, together with the world-wide recession and a<br />

massive increase in value of the Swiss franc, pushed many<br />

manufacturers to the brink of disaster.<br />

The products that had earned <strong>Glycine</strong> such an excellent<br />

reputation, namely high-quality mechanical watches and<br />

above all automatic watches, were suddenly no longer<br />

in general demand. Customers everywhere were buying<br />

Japanese quartz watches or American digital LED watches.<br />

The lucrative business with highly-regarded automatic<br />

watches was over, and these were now being sold off at giveaway<br />

prices.<br />

The market went through a turnaround in its values, a<br />

tendency which further intensified as the price for the initially<br />

exorbitantly expensive quartz watches consistently dropped<br />

to a level where it finally drove even the cheap pin-pallet<br />

(Roskopf) mechanical movements out of the market. Many<br />

market shares were lost, the industry entered into a crisis that<br />

lasted six years and cost roughly 60,000 jobs.<br />

<strong>Glycine</strong> too suffered heavily but managed to survive. In 1984,<br />

soldering on with a reduced staff, <strong>Glycine</strong> was sold to Hans<br />

Brechbühler, who had been working for years with <strong>Glycine</strong><br />

in a loose cooperation based on the joint development and<br />

exchange of watch models.<br />

5


THE COMEBACK<br />

Progressively, new products were developed that<br />

enabled <strong>Glycine</strong> to work successfully in countries such as<br />

Scandinavia, Italy, Holland, Belgium and Germany.<br />

A quartz collection was created and an international network<br />

of agencies sprang to life again. Extremely resistant watches,<br />

such as the TJALK and HEAVY DUTY models, were launched<br />

and added to the prestige of the brand.<br />

The market accepted with pleasure the GOLDSHIELD line,<br />

featuring a standard of goldplating much higher than anything<br />

the competitors could present. The sophisticated super-thin<br />

AMARANTH watches received an enthusiastic welcome in<br />

Italy and the U<strong>SA</strong>.<br />

The new strategies began to pay off in the early 1990s<br />

when <strong>Glycine</strong> implemented a new brand concept, resulting<br />

in mechanical products being increasingly integrated into<br />

the company’s collections. This strategy proved effective in<br />

positioning <strong>Glycine</strong> as a specialist, with a long tradition in the<br />

field of mechanical watches.<br />

After an initial success in Germany, the first to really accept the<br />

mechanical watches on a large scale, the new range of <strong>Glycine</strong><br />

products spread to other countries.<br />

6


MECHANICS IN THE ASCENDANT, THE GIANTS TAKE OVER<br />

The markets were now ready for watches of real value,<br />

and <strong>Glycine</strong> made the most of it.<br />

Beginning in the late 90s and in quick succession, a rich<br />

assortment of mechanical watches, with steadily growing<br />

diameters, was presented to the market, from the 37 mm<br />

COMBAT to the 42 mm OBSERVER, the 44 and 46 mm<br />

INCURSORE, the 48 mm KMU and, to top it off, the 52 mm F<br />

104, one of the biggest wrist watches ever produced.<br />

Chronographs with the famous V 7750 and 7751 movements<br />

were added, such as the classic 46 mm STRATOFORTE, the<br />

giant GRAND CARRE 3810 and the elegant barrel-shaped<br />

ALTUS, inspired by a successful <strong>Glycine</strong> model of the 50s.<br />

All these big size watches gave the company the status of a<br />

daring innovator that did not hesitate to push the size of its<br />

watches beyond every dimension known so far.<br />

7


AIRMAN FOREVER<br />

Already in 1953, <strong>Glycine</strong> started production of its first<br />

Airman model, a watch that has become legendary. The<br />

design and features of this watch had been worked out in<br />

close co-operation with pilots of civil and military aviation.<br />

Undoubtedly this line gave <strong>Glycine</strong> the status of a pioneer in<br />

the field of world time watches. Over the years Airman models<br />

have never been absent from the <strong>Glycine</strong> range, even during<br />

the period when quartz movements dominated the world<br />

market. In reply to market demand, two AIRMAN models with<br />

ETA quartz movements were launched, gaining particular<br />

success in Japan and U<strong>SA</strong>, where demand for real world time<br />

watches had not faded.<br />

The year 1998 brought the long-awaited rebirth of this leader,<br />

with model ref. 3764, AIRMAN 2000. By using an exquisite<br />

ETA movement 2893-2, <strong>Glycine</strong> offered a three-time-zone<br />

timekeeper, unique in the field of 24-hour watches. The<br />

following year, the AIRMAN line was enlarged by a jumbo 46<br />

mm watch, featuring a special locking system on the revolving<br />

top ring.<br />

At Basel Fair 2002, a genuine world novelty was offered to<br />

the public under the name of AIRMAN 7, a watch featuring<br />

three independent self-winding movements, showing<br />

time simultaneously in four different time zones on three<br />

independent dials. The case measures a stunning 53 mm in<br />

diameter yet fits well on an average wrist. Its sapphire glass<br />

back allows for a fascinating view of three finely embellished<br />

self-winding movements.<br />

From 1998 to this day <strong>Glycine</strong> has developed an unbroken<br />

chain of mechanical aviation watches ranging from<br />

successively more complex world timers to unique collectors<br />

item.<br />

8


Today, <strong>Glycine</strong> is active world-wide by means of a steadily<br />

growing network of agencies, allowing the company to<br />

increase production while maintaining the quality of its<br />

products. Widespread and reliable after-sale service remains<br />

an important factor in the company’s growth, and <strong>Glycine</strong><br />

is taking utmost care to provide impeccable performance<br />

in this field. Offering excellent value at reasonable prices is<br />

an important part of <strong>Glycine</strong>’s philosophy. The company’s<br />

strong foundation, coupled with its emphasis on rugged and<br />

reliable products, make <strong>Glycine</strong> a respected name in Swiss<br />

watchmaking today.<br />

If you are interested in further information about Airman, we<br />

recommend that you visit the independent website of André<br />

Stikkers. The URL is www.glycineairman.info<br />

AIRMAN FOREVER 9

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